Evening Star Newspaper, November 28, 1896, Page 18

‘THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 28, 1896-294 PAGES, | ——— alt Mh mT) A GROUP IN A BOX. FASHION’S FOIBLES Striking Costumes as Noted by an Observer at the Theater. A CREATION IN WHITE AND GRAY New Things in Wraps. and in High Evening Gowns. FOR A PRETTY GIRL Correspondence of the Evening Star. NEW YORK, Noveraber 25, 1896. HE STRAINS OF “I Dreamt I Dwelt In Marble Halls” floated out over the great auditorium. A hush fell upon the audi- ence. Some of us were thinking of oth- er voices now silenced that sang those words long ago. An old opera can mean so much more than a new one. One of my neighbors in the next box lifted a bunch of reses from her lap, and her fan fell rattling to the floor. I loox- ed at her, without knowing that I was lcoking, and 1 have a photograph of her now in my mind. One does not boast of having studied costumes under such cir- cumstances, but when costumes are one’s busines and a costcme is particularly nov- el and notable, one may be allowed to set it down. My neighbor was a young and fresh-look- ing blonde. Her heavy flaxen hair was drawn back from a low forehead over which one straggling curl fell innocently. Once I saw a young woman artfully ar- range one of those artless curls “‘so that a men would think it a bit out of order and wish he might fix it for her.” But that is arother story. My neighbor was pink and white, and so she wore white and gray. Gray is a color that is being pushed this season, and that is why I specify my neigh- bor’s complexion. Gray is good for some people, but it is very bad for coloriess and especially for muddy skins. A Striking Costume. The sroundwork of my neighbor’s dress was white silk striped with broad gray bars. Horizontally the stripes were crossed by Jines of black and pale blue. Against this background was flung a bold design of brilliant-hued flowers. Perhaps this doesn’t “sound Jike white and gray. It is just the fashionable idea of white and gray, with a Yest deal of piquarcy and emphasis. The skirt of this rich silk was quite plain, except for a narrow band of sable fur at the hem. The bodice was a trig coat of er gray velvet, fitted like a nabit basque. It had a lining of pate blue silk and this lining was cut longer than the coat, mak- ing a border to finish it at the bottom. Ivst a line of sable edged this border, giv- ing the reife? of its rich black to the feebler kues. My neighbor was slender. Women with large hips, if they are wise, shun fur. The coat was cut open in front, and grad_ uated on either s‘de in three hanging tabs, on each of which was a button of lace and fur. Cascades of lace foamed under the tabs from shoulder to waist line. Under the ecat was a white silk front draped with loose folds of mousseline de sole, the last delicately embroidered in the colors of the flowers with which the face of the skirt was coverei. At either side of the white silk collar. jabots of lace softened the neck outline. There was a blue silk belt, and there were tight sleeves with jabots of lace from the elbow down. To describe the de- tails of such a dress is telling very little about the dress. To see a gown as it lives, you must see what is given to it by the wearer. My neigkbor wore, it is sufficten | to say, one of the most artistic “creations” yet on view this winter. The hat was not so good, though it cor- Teaponded with the gown in a way. It was a fantastic arrangement of blue velvet with a flower wreath and plumes. A Simpler Gown. There were other women in the box, and as the music went on, I watched them idly. They did not present the bare shoul- ders, or the jewels of grand opera, but their high evening dresses, dainty wraps and bright bonnets were up-to-date ex- amples of the best thaf city modistes are turning out this season. The dress that was, perhaps, most in- teresting was worn by a young matron, who had the air that everybody recognizes of having already seen much of the world. | It was a shot silk, with glancing lights of biue and mauve, and striped in Hnes of blue velvet dots, which added greatly to its rich effectiveness. It seemed to be a very soft silk, and yet heavy: one of the sort that dressmakers are threatening to experiment with in the proposed double ‘skirts and draped skirts. As yet, however, they have been good enough to let perfec- tion alone. The bodice was of white silk, veiled completely by a high blouse of ex-! quisite lace. Over the blouse was one of the many variations upon the bolero jacket theme. Cut low in the neck and very open, it was long enough to be belted by a draped sash of blue satin and to rise about the sash in a waist frill. It was made of blue velvet, by the way, and edged about with tur. quoise-dotted passementerie. The lace sleeves had drooping puffs on the shoul- ders, were close and wrinkled to the wrists, and then expanded in frills. Much simpler than the dress of the rosy blonde, a wise Woman, not altogether suré of her ability to stand well an overplus of decoration, Would choose of the two this costume. It Is only the exceptional woman who is not subordinated by many trimmings. Dark Green Brocade. A pretty brunette. who seemed to resist @ temptation to fuss constantly with her gloves, wore, half falling from her shoul- ders, a theater cape that will bear a word of description. It was a heavy, dark green brocade, figured with great flowers in blue. This biue and green combination is all but universal at the moment, and, therefore, it is impossible to believe It can last long, though, indeed, such brecades as the one under comment, being too rich to be at- tained easily, can choose their colors at all times. A pink satin lining peeped out the flaring collar, and here and there among the rippling folds. About the shoulders was drawn a white lace fichu, edged with double ruffles of lace and fastening in front with a puffy knot and long ends. The small turban-like bon- net was designed, with an eye to the needs of the cape, in dark green velvet, with trimmings of lace, jet and pink roses. similar corabination has been used very su fully this autumn in an afternoon wrap, a deep cardinal red silk being sub- stituted for pink in the lining, and black lace being employed instead of white for the fichu. Another wrap which caught the eye at a little distance was even more original. It started with a yoke of black satin, bead- ed with jet in cobweb figures. Below the yoke two puffs of white chiffon ran about the shoulders assertively. Below the chif- fon was a deep fall of biack lace gathered full and providing what there was of length and substance to this very airy winter gar- ment, which might be in its element ward. ing off the draughts of an overheated thea- ter, but presupposed the coziest of cozy carriages outside. In Blue and Pink. A girl of not more than eighteen wore a little shot silk in blue and pink that I had almost forgotten. And yet it was quite the prettiest dress of the evening. It had a transparent guimpe or chemisette of dotted meusseline that was very fetching. A bertha of the silk was draped across the shoulders and formed puffs for the sleeves. The waist was very slightly full and was drawn into a wide sash of blue silk, with a little edge of black velvet. The clese sleeves were of dotted mousseline like the guimpe, and at the neck was a full ruche of velvet edged with mousseline. Nothing would have been simpler, and, with the slight emphasis of the black velvet, nothing would have been more attractive. Only an artist in dress would have thought of that one slight touch without wh! h the effect weuld have been missed entirely. Of course, there was a blaze of Danish red everywhere through the audtence. It is not necessary to talk about that, because the mugic has been neglected too much al- ready: ELLEN OSBORN. FOR WINTER HANGING BASKETS. Flowers and Greenery to Brighten Up the Rooms AN the Season Through. From the Philadelptia Press. Fiowers appropriate for hanging baskets and trailing basket plants will be of special interest to the window gardener at this season, says the Home Queen. Whether there is simply a small bay window or a convenient conservatory at the disposal of the winter bloomers, the trailing ana climbing plants may be made to flourish with very little care, if wise selections are made, and there is nothing that will add sc much grace and beauty to a collection of plants. The question of suitability is an import- ant one, as many of the trailers that made luxuriant growth outside will give very lit- tle satisfaction in the window garden; yet there are many easily cultivated plants that have been tested by practical flower growers, and found to be admirably adapt- ed for hangmg pots or baskets, or for win- dcw brackets, because of their drooping or trailing habit. It will be well to keep a Ist of these tested varieties for reference during the winter, when new plants are to be added to the window garden from time to time. For planting in the center of a hanging basket, farfugium grande is both curious and attractive. The leaves are thick. round, smooth anda of a deep gréen color; blotched over with irregular golden spots. Drooping plants can be set around it in the basket. The nasturtiums are also receiving the appreciation they deserve as window plants, and are admirable bloomers, wheth- er single or double. “Oriole” is a novelty highly recommended. “The flowers exceed m brilliancy the plumage of that most beautiful bird of all our American song- sters—the Baltimore orlole. The flowers fare fringed, brilliant yellow, with a large | scarlet spot in the center of’ each, offering @ marked contrast to the dark green of the ivy-shaped leaves. The plants begin to bloom when only a few inches high, and are soon crowded with flowers. It is un- equaled for baskets or vases; always in bicom.” So says a prominent florist. and even in the hands of an inexperienced amateur these showy flowers are sure to Bive satisfaction as winter bloomers. Mahernia odorata, or honey bell, not be omitted, as its golden, flowers are most freely borne in and the lobelias, too, must be remembered, ough they are too generally cul! heed special description.” “ultlvated to ———~+. Monkeys as Fly Catchers. From the New Orlezns ‘Times-Democrat. An interesting fact known to students of natural history .was touched on by a gen- tleman who has given considerable atten- ton to the study of monkeys ‘and their an- ties. Mr. Austin is the gentleman referred te me of the most peculiar features about monkeys—aside from their faces—is their ability to eatch flies. Fact. Ever been in a barroom? Why, of course. Well, you’ve seen a lot of files on the counter, and may- be you've seen a man trying to Scoop them up with his hand. If you watch the man you will find that he puts himself toa great deal of trouble te do the work. He will pull up his sleeve, bare his wrist and lunge viciously at the gathered knot of flies. Chances are he won't get any, but instead will knock over a half a dozen glasses in the attempt. The monkey beats the man at the game. Every time he for a fly it’s a ten-to-one shot that the fly is caught. The monk simply .‘reaches’ for the fly in s thoughtless, ‘absent-minded fashion peculiar to him. -It looks as though a thought just strikes him that files are Out stretches a han HOUSEHOLD HINTS Hot water will frequently restore flowers to freshness, even when every petal is drooping. Place the stems in a cup of boiling water and leave them till every leaf is smoothed out, then cut off the ends of the stems and put the bouquet into luke- warm water. An active skin, which lets pass through its pores untrammeled all the waste the bedy sends out that way, and an active liver are the very best preventitives of obesity. Having tried it in a number of seemingly dangerous cases, a well-informed woman Says that a bruised wound or a wound that is liable to produce lockjaw can be rendered perfectly harmless by smoking the lacer- ated parts over burning woolen goods. Javelle water is excellent for removing tea, coffee, grass and fruit stains from linen. It is easily made after this recipe: Mix well in an earthen vessel one pound of sal soda, 5 cents’ worth of chloride of lime and two quarts of scft water. Apply di- rectly to the stains and rinse off. Don’t j let it touch your fingers, as it's hard on the flesh. Find fault, when you must find fault, in private, if possible, and some time after the cffense rather than at the time. Tae blamed are generally less fractious if there &re bo witnesses to the scolding. In finding fault with servants remember that it is particularly ill-bred to call attention to their shoricomings at the table or before guests. and question first whether it was a fault or an accident that annoyed you. Mortar ard paint may be removed from window glass with hot sharp vinegar. A pleasant remedy for chapped hands is to hold them in warm milk for ten minutes every night before going io bed; then dry them on a soft cloth and rub with mutton tallow. A psir cf loose, old gloves will help matters, but they must be large or they will make the hands red. ~ Vegetabies ought.to be kept in a cool, clean, dark place, in a cellar if possible. Sunshine or even a strong light renders them flabby and flavorless. Soft water should be ‘ised in ecoking them, if practi- cable, and just enough to cover them; then their delicacy of flavor will be preserved. An experienced cabinet maker says that the Lest preparation for cleaning picture frames and restering furniture, especially that somewhat marred or scratched, Is a mixture of three parts of linseed oil and cne pert spirits of turpentine. It restores wood to its original color, leaving a luster upon the surface. Apply with a woolen cloth, and when dry polish with another Plece of wool cloth. It is teo bad that sa many women give cver to the occasional guest the sunniest, brightest room in the house and reserve for themselves and families little, dark, cramped living rooms. Let the guest wh> Tema:ns but a few days, or at least calls but seldom, sit in the semi-gloom or sleep in the duller room, but, for you, take for the living room tre one that the sunshine kisses half the day cr longer. It is the workshop where you spend more than half your life, where brain and body are built up and remodeled, and it is simple justice to yourself and yours that it be comfort- able and cheery. —_——-__. Pinnos That Catch Cold. From Answers. Half the pianos of this country catch winter colds exactly as we do. They get hearse, or have a cough, or a stiff note, or some similar complaint which cannot be cured by home remedies, but which re- quires tedious ani expensive doctoring. In order to prevent these avoidable ail- ments a piano should be kept in a moder- ately warm room, where the temperature is even, say 60 or 70 degrees, the year round—not cold cne day ard hot the next. The instrument should not, however, be too near the source of heat. It should be kept closed, and covered with a felt cloth when not in vse, particularly in frosty weather. Always place the piano against an inside wall, and a little out from it. —_+o+_____ Couldy’t Agree. From Harper's Bazar. “You wish to be relieved from jury duty, but you haven't given a good reason,’ sald the judge. “It's public spirit,” said the unwilling talesman. “On the score of economy. I have dyspepsia, judge, end I never agree with anybody “It I go on this jury there'll be a disagreement, and the county will have to go to the expense of a new trial.” “Excused,” said the judge. ———_+e+_____ Regret. From Life. HOUSEKEEPER 98 AS A The Mistress af‘:the White House is F Relieved From Care. NOP NECESSARY 20 ENTER THE KITCHEN Details of Domestic Management bee in the President's Home. AID OF UNCLE SAM = RS. MCKINLEY, Wie she becomes the mistress of the White House, the 4th of March, will find the old mansion in excellent order from garret to cellar. The various {mprove- ments during the last eight years in the way of moderniz- +7 ing have been of in- Bs calculable benefit to oe . the house, and the health and comfort of its occupants, until now it may.be said, so far.as an old house can be improved, to be in the pink of con- dition. The wear and tear of the next three months will, of course, be consider- able, and may chgnge the shining appear- ance of its every nook and corner, but noticeable as this: may be, it will not be a circumstance to what the mansion will suffer during the first three months of the new administration. New things soon grow worn and old-look- ing during these early and trying days of each presidential term, when visitors come by hundreds, either on business or curios- ity bent, and the White House is the Mecca to which all eyes and many feet are turned. That domestic virtue, housekeeping, with Its attendant tralts, is by no means a necessary part of the equipment of a White House ‘mistress. The house which has sheltered all the Presidents save one is mere of a public building than a home in the strictest sense of the term. The taste of iis presiding lady may: be manifest in the redecoration of a room, the selection of a piece of furniture, the tint of a carpet or a drapery or something else in that line, but the best results, in the opinion of some, are secured when these selections are left to the judgment of a professional dec- orator, who will best know how to preserve the historical and artistic harmonies. Some- times congressional appropriations are more casily secured than at others, and it wus in these libesal periods during the Harrison administration when so much of seruine restoration and thorough cleaning up was carried on with such success. In recent years, perhaps, the late Mra. rison was the best exemplification of a mistress of the White House, being at the same time a thorough housekeeper. The kitchens and basement generally were Placed in thorough order. At another time the redecoration of the halls and the blue and green parlors was carried on one en- tire summer, and’ the results in an artistic sense were emjnently satisfactory, and in these two parlors’éspecially continue to ex. cite seneral admiration. The designs were chcsen entirely by Mrs. Harrison, who took the greatest pledsire in watching the pro- ress of the wotk and in its success. Taste of the Present Mintress, During the present administration noth- ing of importanet.'so far as any change was ccncerned was necessary in the state apart- ments excepting. the red room, which in its present appearance reflects the taste of its charming mistress. It is the parlor most used by the President and his wife in recelving social calls.., The apartments up- stairs used by .the family haye been each thoroughly. chapged in their scheme of or_ nhamentation during the last four years will in all probability come in for ess many more changes during the next admin- istration. The necessity for making the best of the limited sleeping room space caused Mrs. Harrison to explore the attic and to utilize a part for closet and trunk rooms. President Cleveiand’s family circle is of smaller dimensions and Mrs. Cleve. land's ingenuity has not been taxed to find comfortable corners for each one, as Mrs. Harrison was often obliged to do. Beyond settling some such probleme as these the mistresses of the White House do not take an active part in its household matters. The fact that Mrs. McKinley will come there an invalid need not, therefore, militate against her in her management of its domestic machinery. She will have far less to do each day, so far as housekeeping is concerned, than she does in her more modest establishment in Canton. There is usually a housekeeper to whom the fem- inine part of the household help pays def- erence. She comes between the servants and the mistress and relieves the latter of the care of managing the former. The steward, who is at the head of the kitchen cabinet and the grand factotum of the entire establishment, is a bonded indi- vidual, who is responsible for the house- hold equipment of furniture, china and plate from the time he receives the charge until he turns it over to his successor, which may be the same hour in which the new President takes possession. The stew- ard is not the purchasing agent, however, for anything except what is used on the President's table or by his servants. Im Charge of Col. Wilson. Col. Wilson, the superintendent of public buildings and grounds, has the charge of the White Housé—its repairs and refur- nishing, the purchasing of new supplies, the linen, china, glass and silver, and all the hundred and one things which con- tribute to the dignity of a presidential home and its public and private uses. All the servants in the White House are pald by the government, excepting the few who wait on the family personally. Few of the White House mistresses ever venture below stairs to the kitchens or laundry. They relegate any duty they may find in this regard to the steward or house- per. The steward has a pleasant room in the basement which fs his office and parlor during his leisure hours, and those who have business with him seek him there. It is said that Mrs. Cleveland, like many other mistresses of large houses, never goes down to. the kitchen, or, in fact, never knows in advaace what will be serv- ed upon her table. She leaves these de- tails to those in charge of them and gives any lelsure she may have to her children. Mrs. McKinley, may or may not be able to give as much fime to social matters as her predecessora,,but at all events she neéd not carry out any traditions of the mansion in giving, personal attention to its domestic machipery. -She has hardly ever known a real W i] hour, and unless her Physical condit! a greatly improves it is scarcely possibl¢ for her to hope to do more than be @ Jooker-on at such state functions at which she will preside, Custom of Handshaking. There is no dotht, however, but that she will make the to take part whenever it 1s practical, amd will do all her bodily strength will permit during the early days of the administration, when the public mind will be 8d ‘powerfully attracted to- ward her and her. every movement. That she will have any relative, either of her own or of the President-elect, to represent her when she cgunot appear ‘is highly im- probable. The fatigue of handshaking was something unendprable to Mrs. Harrison, ard she wisely determined from the very start not to commence it. The sad closing of her life proved only toa well that she Gid not underestimate her store of strength. Mrs. McKinley, if she takes the advice of those whose experience gives them the right to dictate, will receive callers seated and will also refrain from shaking hands. Happiness and success are not only great beautifiers, but, they are also great cure- alls, and pleasait anticipations of the com- ing four years may do wonders for Mrs. McKinley. 2 Entertaining in the White House ts“ideal in many respects, as the extras required in the way of service,’ the flowers and the musicians, are all easily available and fe- quire no concert Milwauk ‘The eer or St. Paul. plants and flowers in the les connected with the house than is enjoyed by the President and his family in the White House, there is a good store of fragrant beauty to drew from for the decoration of the table and the house. The government greenhouses are called on for further floral aids when needed on public occasions, and a retinue of trained workers contribute their share to the beau- t'fying of the east room. The Marine Band is ordered to discourse its sweetest music. If the great public is expected, there are dozens of extra policemen to reinforce the orGinary number of doorkeepers and ush- ers. The government provides a clerk who sends out the invitations and otherwise lest modest -variety. As much more space is given to the conservatori: taining problem, and keeps track of the acceptance and regrets for each event. —_>—__ SHE WAS A GOLD BUG. And Knew So Much That She Gave Her Steady Company the Mitten. From the Chicago ‘Thnes-Herald. “You are worth your weight in gold,” he ventured to remark to the girl he had wanted to marry. “Am I, indeed,” she retcrned; “and how much is that?” “I don’t know the exact amount,” Plied, “but it’s a good deal.” “Well, I am just going to find out how much you value me at. I have been study- ing the money question lately, and I have scme books that will tell me.” And she went to the Hbrary and returned with a report of the United States Treasury Department. “Here it is. Pure gold is worth $20.86 an ounce. That is troy weight, with 7,000 grains to the pound. Have you a pencil and some paper, Mr. Chapleigh?” “Oh, Lord,” he groaned. ‘What's that?” sharply. ‘I only said, yes, certainly.’ ‘Well, figure on the value of a pound of avoirdupois; you know people are weighed by avoirdupois. Only precious metals and precious stones are measured.” ‘You're a jewel.” ‘No nonsense. Figure it up.” For five minutes he wrestled with the Problem, until he felt his collar climbing up the back of his neck. At length she inquired: 1 he re- ‘Give me the paper. Yet they say men are so much better than women at figures. In half a minute she read the result. “A grain of gold is worth $0.043006, so a pound avoirdupols is worth $301.462. I weigh 110 pounds. m therefore worth, in your estimation, $33,150.82—my weight in gold. In that case, Mr. Chapleigh, I think you had better marry Miss Greenwo: she is worth $50,000. She inherited {t from her father. Good day, Mr. Chapleigh. He feebly protested, but she was implaca- ble, and he left. ——__+ 0+ _____ COULD AFFORD TO BUY NEW ONES. Gave an Order for a Picture to Be Painted by Rembrandt. From the New York World. “I want to look at some of your best Faintings,” said Mrs. Crewe Doyle to the art dealer. “Yes, madam,” replied be. “You prefer landscapes, do you, or marines, or shall I show you both?” “I'd rather have a picture of country life, I think, with cows and trees and ; things like that, you know.” “Yes, madam. This way, please. Now here is a very fine work by Rembrandt.” The customer surveyed the work criti- cally and then said: “Tis picture locks like a second-hand painting. Isn't it?” “Well,” said the dealer in a somewhat surprised tone, “I suppose it might be termed second-hand, but I don’t think I ¢xer heard a Rembrandt called that be- eae embrandt? Where can I find she asked. Te’s one of the old masters, madam.” H'm! Well, I don’t want you to try to Sell second-hand pictures to me, for I can afford to buy new ones. You may just tell Mr. Rembrandt to paint a picture especial ly for me and have it made twice the sise of this, please. This order so astonished the dealer that he allowed Mrs. Crewe Doyle to stalk out without putting down her name and ad- dress and now he doesn’t know where to send the painting when Mr. Rembrandt gets it done. +e+—____ TEA AND COFFEE. A Dealer Says That the People Will Not Pay the Price for Good Articles. From the New York Sun, There ts a dealer in coffee in this city who snorts when he hears people talking about the difficulty of making good coffee. “The making be jiggered,” he says. “The important thing is not how the coffee ts made, but the quality of the coffee. There are a dozen different ways of making coffee, all of which produce equally good results, and not more skill or care is required than in cooking anything else. The quality of the coffee is the thing, and because Americans on buying cheap grades of coffee they don’t get good coffee. They blame their wives and their servants for the result of their own false economy. Americans drink more coffee than any other nation, but they don’t drink the best. Fhey drink cof- fee as a staple article of Atiet, and don’ study its finer qualities. In Europe people pay from 10 to 20 cents more a zound on an average for good qualities of coffee than is paid here. People here haven’t been trained to pay above a certain price for coffee. When I began business I wanted to supply something a little better than the citizens of the town were accustomed to. I imported a lot of especially fine Ceylon plantaticn coffee. It cost me for-y-one cents a pound wholesale, unroasted. In Tcasting coffee lases about one-sixth of its weight, so that this coffee roasted would have been worth about fifty cents a pound without the dealer’s profit. That is about twice the wholesale price of ordinary good coffee. With that I made a mixture that I could sell for forty-five cents a pound. I found that it actually hurt my business in- stead of helping it. People got an idea that I was. fraud because I was zo high-priced. “I had the same experience with tea. Americans don’t drink especially fine tea. I thought the reason of that was that they didn’t know any better, and I tried to give them a chance to learn. I imported a lot of very fine Chinese tea. It was not the very finest, but it was so good that it came in small packages wrapped up in silk. I could make a small profit on it selling it at $3 a pound. I expected it would quite a drawing card for me; but when the first customer came in and asked how much my best tea was, and I said ‘$$ a pound,’ he nearly fainted. It might have hurt my business seriously, only he happened to be a friend of mine, and agreed to say nothing about it. After that I was careful to size up my customers before telling them the cost of my best tea. Now I have best tea, very best tea, extra best tea und the $3 kind, Many Chinese laundrymen drink bet- ter tea than some millionaires. It comes packed in pound boxes with glass covers and with bunches of the whole tea leaves tied up together in sili. “If men will buy cheap coffee there is only one way to make it taste sood. Let them start out in the evening, watk ten miles into the woods, s!cep all night in camp, and get up at 5 o'clock the next morning and make their own coffee. Then it will taste like nectar, no matter what its quality.” —___+e-+—_____ Kansas City’s Giant Policemen. From the Kansas City Times. Possibly there is no other town of its size in the United States that has as large po- licemen as Kansas City, Kan. By request of Chief Serviss every officer on the force was weighed and measured yesterday, and an average made that comparisons could be made with other cities. The average weight of each policeman 1s 198 5-8 pounds. The average height ts five feet ten and one-half inches. The heaviest officer on the force is Patrolman Joe Ad- dison, who tips the beam at 280 peunds and measures six feet three inches in height. The lightest officer on the force weighs 154 pounds. There are no pigmies among the Kansas City, Kan., policemen, Every man is large and well built and capable-of ful- filling the duties of a bouncer whenever his services are‘required. This average weight is greater than that of Denver, or any other western city, with two excep- tions. It fs greater than that of Cincin- nati, Louisville, ee, Des Moiries, CLOAKS AND FROCKS| IMPERIAL Costumes Which Are Suggestive to the Economically Inclined. SUITABLE MATERIAL FOR WRAPS A Pretty Use of Heavy Cream Lace for Trimmings. | BUCKLES FOR SLIPPERS ———-___ HITE BROCADE Is . able, especially the kind with raised vel- vet flowers. The lat- ter has a heavy, sub- | stantial look about it which ts very desir- able in a cloak. For the very elegant wraps, a fur in a contrasting shade ts often used for trim- ming. For instance, @ pink velvet wrap is loaded down with Russian sable tails. But for the white capes, thibet or mouffion in some light tint is preferable. A wrap lined throughout with white thibet with a high collar of the same fur is very serviceable and delightfully warm. To be of real service an opera wrap should be cither a three-quarter length cape or a full length cloak. The long cloak 1s the most to be desired, but every one can- not afford one. For those who can, there are some beautiful designs, most of them imported. One of the most gorgeous which has yet appeared in the dressing room at the Gpera is an all-enveloping garment of satin de Lyons, trimmed with hand em- broidery and Russian sable. The cloak falls in Watteau folds in the back from a hand-embroidered yoke. The yoke merges into a high collar that flares up around the head sufficiently to do away with the necessit tt or hood. The collar is as are also some nonde- script, flopping affairs that look more lik revers than anything else. The sleeves are very locse, and look like silk bags with a band of silk around the elbow, and an- other at the wrist, below which they hang loose in a wide ruffie edged with sable Another one, gnade of brocade and trim- me@ with two shades of satin, has mouf- fion collar and cuffs. Mouffion, by the way, is very fashionable, and being comparatively inexpensive and quite as warm as fur, it is a very g001 substitute for those who cannot afford real skins. It appears on the short capes that are stil worn for street wear, in com- bination with astrakhan, or Persian lamp. A very pretty cape is black Persian lan with a mouffion collar and an eight-inch band of the same around the bottom. Mouflion alone makes a Wery pretty col- larette, am article which is much more desirable than a cape, because it can be worn with one’s coat when winter settles down to business, as it is predicted it will do with a vengeance this year. Mouffion makes a very pretty finish for the white opera cape, whether the material be brocade, broadcloth or some cheaper material. Use of Jewels, Jewels are often introduced into the em- broidery vsed upon the more expensive wraps—especially the short that are -worn into the box to 1 ficown about the ulders in case of draughts, but the woman is content with a three- @uarter cape of cream white cloth, Iined with some pretty shade of silk and trim- med with white thibet. Gray and yellow cloth are pretty shades if one can risk the danger of having a gown which refuses to harmonize with them. Eiderdown for cloaks is not very desira- ble on account of its tendency to knot up and get woolly. Albatross, or cashmere, or Henrietta cloth, when interlined with wool or ordi- nary padded lining, makes a very pretty cloak for the young woman who makes her own to wear over ber dancing frock. An old skirt that is frayed around the bottom, but is otherwise good, can some- times be cut off at the hem and turned into a gorgeous cloak, at small expens Silks are beirg sold in large quantities at very low prices just now, and this is one instance in which it pays to patronize the bargain counter. Cheap silk will serve very nicely for a lining for one’s evening cloak, as it doesn’t get much wear. Some handsome ribbon to tie it under the chin, and perhaps to form a broad, box-pleatad ruff around the back of the neck, makes a pretty, finish for a cloak that may look a little cmateurish, but which at least serves its purpose. The trimmings used on the dresses worn at the opera are chiefly jewels, embroidery and applique lace. The prettiest fancy is for chiffon flowers with jeweied centers. These are appliqued on dresses made of satin or brocade, and make a splendid display. An imported white satin dress has biush roses in the most delicate shades of pink chiffon appliqued on the skirt after it was made. The sprays and leaves are embroidered in appropriate shades of green, and all through the design tiny gems sparkle like drops of dew that the glare of the lights has not yet dissipated. A pink velvet girdle to match the darkest shade in the rose is very high on the right side, but narrows down to a knot on the left. Around the neck is a flounce of rich lace, and underneath the silk flounce that forms the sleeve a knot of pink velvet nestles against each erm. Suggestive Merely. Stich gowns as these must continue to be unfulfilled dreams for most of us, but they at least suggest what we may do with less expensive materials. If we can- not have applique, chiffon roses with jewel- ed centers, we can have a moderate amount of pretty lace which may be ap- Pliqued in some such manzer as are the other things. A very pretty use of the heavy cream lace ts as a trimming for black velvet bolero jackets. One can buy bolero trim- ming with bolero front and collar back, for $4.25, or one can purchase the velvet, the silk Hining and the lace separately, and make the same for $3 or less, accord- ing to the quality of the velvet used. ‘These will be found very serviceable, as, being black and white, they can be worn over a dress of any color, and will make the plainest gown look dressy so long as boleros continue te be fashionable. There ts a tendency to make bodices one-sided—that is, instead of having both sides to match, one side may have a rever and the other a fall of lace, or a knot of ribbon may grace one side of a bodice of which the other is plain. Sometimes three HAIR REGENERA No matter what HAIR—streaky, made of imperial Hair Regenerator. It is clean, colorless, lastinz, does not contain an atom of poisonous matter. Baths do not affect it neither curling nor ‘crimp; for the BEARD on accouat o: urabiity. 0. TOR ‘Trace Man; the colo- or condition of y BLEACHED or GRAY—it can be sautifl, glossy and natmal by one appl its cleanliness 4—Chestant revers are worn—two large ones and small one. Dancing dresses are made of satin and brocade moire and velvet, with lace and ne trimmings. Some are hand- |. but more have applique embrid- fry and lace designs. Mousseline bodices with satin or brocade skirts are worn by very young women. Dancing slippers are very much orna- Enent some with jewels, others with designs in contrasting leather. A patent leather slipper has a blazing gilt star on its toe. A bow with a jeweled buckle ts a very Popular finish for the evening slipper and the ingenious girl who is of a thrifty turn of mind will make her own, using, perhaps, @ couple of the tiny. paste buckles which she wore on last summer's hat. a —— WHBTLED FOR A HUSBAND. it She Did It Wholly Unawares and They Lived Happily Ever Afterward. From the Detroit Free Press. “Talking about whistling,” said the young man who was spinning a yarn in the smoker, “reminds me of a curious incident that happened to me in a hotel once—not exactly a tragedy or a comedy, but involv- ing features of both. It wes a country- town hotel, and I went to my room carly to escape the dullness of the office and write letters to the house. There was gas in the room, but after searching I could not discover any matches, and there was no bell to ring for them. I decided to way- lay some attendant in the hall, and sat down to my writing. But no sooner was everything still than I heard some on+ whistling in the next room. First it was a snatch from an opera, then a tender a musical rendition of ‘Annie Lauri could not write a line for the witchery of the whistled numbers. Once I appl but there was a long silence, and 1 ¢ repeat the indiscretion. It was some young fellow who whistled sciously, and when reminded of it to pipe his sweet music. “When he stopped whistling I resumed my pen and wrote my letters. Then 1 thcught of the matches and rapped on my. neighbor’s door. ; ““I say, young fellow, oblige me with a match, will you?” “There was no response, but I could hear @ movement and a kind of chuckle. I be- came interested and rapped again. “Say, there, don’t be a dog in the man- ger. Anybody who can whistle as sweetly as you ought to be obliging.’ “With that the door opened and there stood before me a demure but very pretty young woman, who handed me a solitary match and shut the door and locked it so quickly that I could not even say ‘thank you,” even if I had not been stricken dumb with surprise.” “She was the whistler?” “She was.” “And did you meet her again?” “Well, rather. I had a great big apology, to make the next day, and I made it—and, well, she is my wife now, and I owe my. happiness to the fact that she whistled.” vidently un ———_—_+e+____ A Six Months’ Engagement. | From Harper's Bazar. Usually Miss Bellingham was very talka« tive when her fiance was with her, but this evening she had Uttle to say. Tht Burden of the conversation fell upon Mr. Clingstone, and he did not sustain it as he should have done. Mr. Clingstone was not much of a conversationalist. He was a much better listener. Evidently, Miss Bellingham had somes thing on her mind, and it took her some time to get ready for the effort of reliev- ing herself of her mental burden. At length she said, after a few preliminary efforts at catching her breath: “When we became engaged, Harold, you will remember that you expressed a wish that our engagement should mot be a long remember, Ethel,” replied Mr. Cling- stone. “I said’ I was opposed to long e! gagements.” ‘You did. You mentioned six months, IE believe, as the maximum length.” ‘Yes, darling. I thought then, and I think now, that no engagement should last longer than six months.” ‘Do you know, Harold, months are almost up? ‘Are they? Well, well, how time does especially when the hours are pleasant That half year has fow= by sweetly, and swiftly.” “Yes,” Miss Bellingham went on, reflect- that our six ‘You have the exact time down fine,”* commented the young man. “I am usually accurate.” “Then, of course, Ethel love, as our siz months have expired, we must get married, Oh, joy! How good it was to remind me of itt Mr. Clingstone thought this a fitting time to embrace his sweetheart, and his arm mole around her waist. The maiden pro- ceeded: “Yes, Haroid, the six months will soon ba up, ond out of deference to your own wis regarding the length of our engagement, am willing that ours shall end at that time.’ “Oh, glory! Then we shall be married in @ week!” “You are going too fast, Mr. Clingstone. I say that out of deference to your views our engagement is to end at 9:15 on the evening of next Thursday, for I have be- come engaged to Charles Munn, the en- gagement to take effect at that time. No ll get your hat and overcoat, and you'll be able to catch the last car without hur- rying.” — Ho From Harper's Bazar. The modern history class was in session. “Willie,” asked the teacher, “who was Gladstone?” “Excuse me, Miss Bulger,” said Willie, “but ought7’t that to be, who is Glad- stone?” replied the teacher, somewhat But—who is Gladstone?” “He's the man—” becan Willie. “Yes,” said Miss Pulger, encouragingly. “Hi the man after whom the Gladstone bag was named,” said Willie. “$0 the Jones-Browns are going abroad. How do you think the nem ved?” rece Mr. X—“With universal satisfaction and many expressions of regret.”—Life