Evening Star Newspaper, September 26, 1896, Page 18

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 1896—TWENTY-FOUR PAGES. THE THE NEW SLEEVE How the Transition is Managed From | Old to New. - — SOME INTERESTING CHAT ABOUT HATS Tea Jackets and Theater Waists With Plain Skirts. _— NEW GOWNS AND BONNETS. here to the letter of the law will be sorely | on millinery—green will be a favorite, gen- | te ed. erally used in two tones, light and dark. i t of all, every woma Blue and green is a fancy of the moment | ing’ il gravitate as rapid) in combination. Tobacco browns, lil: | will her toward the ¢ rovge, nickel grays and silver tones | ducks of bonnets are d . ut why continue? These are the have almost vanished from the aders. The variety is infinite, the choice ly smart bennets or at ycur own, only under th There are loves of gowns that circle feather: about the ducks of bonnets, and other in the place of honor and by velvet, lace and cut st he shapes will t those w have Shave qui cer. Soft | re of th h brims ¢ | ing clesely in at tne ears or low and br i with mushroom cr Fancy braids will but th high ones. continue to ropes with strips of felt and of platted silk and vel- vet cu: bias, of jute and tinsel, : » Hat Trimming. Two “high novelties: tiny “art sq Tow = broidery, to be din hat trin s pe Be Dy EAs Sp 08 embroidery, a nO as and velvet stamped wi gees known as the will he mvch used xrespondence of The I s sin and velyets in NEW YORK. S catered effects, the : moire, satin, Sy : jon * and more delayed in | MOMS) UW : =] deference’ (othe) av: brood of faney ribbons appears lengthening of the|—velvet broeaded ribbons of floriated de- summer out of tow: signs, moire lace ribbons vel e conics s easy |edges ard narrow velvet stripes, Mppierba eedanrt fs easy | Diaided ribbons, gla bbors bro er one may be ered satin ribbons with vy pl with y are upon of course, of “gownine s in Newport ar eton of f: = to tell of th and fe new sleeve, ther ape in the it i hops s » rigid resolution of many me women to a messages | ight alone will | in one: he hearts of members o! ty will sink with see the use m: d plumes of the b the eOUs of the ba oetemn s mard cold w Will Be 2 Favorite. Cut steel leads jet in ornam Icck jewels @re in cluster ut orraments of cut olors—for I must cut short thes Gre steel loves of gowns in the cases and on the forms. T think there will be a-many black costumes this fail. I have admired one dashing one with big hat all covered with plumes, and a showy bodice, black j velvet with the new full basque tails. Many of the season's gowns employ a double basque skirt, the upper flap cver the lower, much as the two lapels of a gown are often superimposed. The bolero idea is charmingly applied this season to ce. A jacket-shaped cloud of the filmy ff thrown about the arm hole of a street s well sets off and emphasizes a bodic k chiffon piaited over pink sill. alling are front of bla A somewhat similar idea can be carried out in canvas and velvet, strips of the lat- adorned with embroidery, running out the shoulders and down the bust, ving under the arms in genuine bolero ys imp! ed you n especially summery style? They are Folding their own wonderfully well in the autumn costuming, but must, I suppose, wo the way of all things. Tea Jackets and Theater Waists. ‘Tea jackets and theater waists are two ttle ideas worth looking up. Either one, with a plain ekirt, can be made to serve the purpose of a special gown. One tea jacket can be made effective in white oriental satin with a very broad corselet band of black folded satin. ‘The top of the jacket is ef white satin covered over with a frill of | white chiffon. The elbow sleeves are edged | with a tuin-back cuff of black velvet. for tea gowns proper, this is the tim: , as the day of the afternoons be much longer delayed. A pretty 2d ut cne of the openings ndee to me by its clever adap- of the newest form of the new si cverarching shoulder puff drawn up sth, so that the whole arm show= and the whole puff from the sid: for the material, silk and ch se; 1 really don't remember. a fetching little yoke of em the cuffs had great flares ot whi over odie rn all h employ French in a species of dea in cutting a gown at save a ‘iressmaker wouli i'm sure I don’t. fall cape, but I suppose wait until rext time, ELLEN OSBORN. HOUSEHOLD HINTS If the baby’s little white wn yellow with c m to a rubbing in or squ: washi borax, nia or sal soda water in plenty of hen spri grass to bleach. Dip two or in the yy water the first se in clear, h for eight good for any ki warm hours of white clothes grown yellow or dingy from any e. If you use one of the long rubber and glass tubes for feeding your baby, remem- least bit of care! ss may The tubes and alf an hy yer that thi e the warm a i milk will cause nd flux, and a by that is ailing the le le bit wiil soon succumb to tube nipple and bot is fed, and put all in needed to soak till night remov throw a napkin over the bx mains in it. These precautio baby’s life, lack of them lose i To smooth rough flat irons, rub them pver coarse salt spread on or. It is an excellent idea bees- wax or white wax and a clean white cloth. Rub the hot irons with the wax and then quickly over the cloth, and they will re- main beautifully smooth. Irons should be kept in a dry place, and it isn’t a bad fdea to wrap them in old newspapers. To remove unpleasant oders from the hands, dash a spoonfui of sugar on the hot stove and hold the hands over the fumes: ground coffee answers the same purpose. If young housekeepers could only be taught the value of th itch in time’ would save them both worry and ex; Table linen gin to linen threa and ra on a| dish with ard dres: tut slice a tab! ina s of them. Cut in rve for lunch. hes are nice for a trave a fried egg, well sea. r slices of bread, but the wich is made of hard-boiled to a paste, seasoned t a pinch of mustard, a er and a tablespoonful of grated c’ 1 thinly on crackers or thin s! bread. If you question the quality of the water you have to drink, boil it and bottle as hot as possible, having care for clean cor! . for present use. No microbes of dis- 2 can possibly infect water so treated. 'y little trouble to prepare, and in- safer. | | Never use a bit of medicine that you are | not sure of. All medicines should be plain- | ly labeled and set out of reach of careless If labels get displaced, or you feel prescription. It 1s much the 1) safest plan. OF OSTRICH PLUMES. Feather Tassels of the New Thread for Boas and Capes. There has been a new departure in the manufacture of ostrich feather trimming. The feathers themselves nave been tra’ forme from the sprightly, curly tips to a stem with long fringe hanging from its flues. The attempt fs to make them droop like paradise feathers, as that is the craze lof the hour. The fringe is usually in a | different tint from the rest of the feather. A white feather, for instance, will have a yellow fringe about elght inches long. It appears to best advantage, however, | when made into tassels and used to t im beas and capes. A boa that hag been on ex- | hibition in a New York window for some | time has enormous tassels at each end, feach of which contains two thousand L . They are formed of the same ma- | terial which is used to fringe the feathers. This material is not new; it a ne out | NEN es. e | The stiff, S$ P rn when been se much in the way of progress in <3 Je aprons and 4 's and | feather manufacture, has at last been re- drawer: : sing buttons and.| moved, and the soft flues are found p ripped vult to| ble. ‘The fringe is made by simply twist- repair a go till | ing the flues together, three or four being 3 are | used to make one string for a feather, ind iter how | More according to length wanted when a t may | tassel is to be made. The tassels on the end be, if it is orly whole and clean. Many a woman who compliims that her once deve husband has been attracted by a comelier face than hers has herself to blame. It seems to be a common failing among women to save their best clothes, their best manners, their pi t speeches their most winning ways for company. Don't tortupe your round-shouldered young daughter with shoulder braces. Thi won't do atom of good, but will make her miser: The evil should be correct- ed at once, but it must be through ph culture and strengthening of the chest and back. ercise with ness in a few ry day. When the first cold days come, the teeth- ing baby is apt to have severe indiz: n, with running off at the bowels. ‘this can generally be corrected by putting a wide Hannel band on the child. The little kni ted ones are the best. Pull the band cl down over the trunk and up to the arm- pits, anchoring to skirt or little shirt with safety pins. A few drops of tincture of myrrh in a glass of tepid water, used as a gargle, will help to sweeten the breath. Scrupuious care of the teeth and of the digestion will generally correct impure breath at once. If a child's kidneys do not do their work properly, it is apt to result in a feverish condition of the system, and probable ill- ness, if long continued. A cry of pain when laid on the back and disinclination to remain in that position is one of the symptoms of inactive kidneys. A few drops of sweet spirits of niter will usually relieve in a short time—from two drops for a four- months-old baby to a teaspoonful for an adult is the dose. Repeat in an hour and till good action fs noted. It is a compara- tively harmless medicine. sical of the muscles ‘Any simple little dumbbells will do the busi- months if they are used If you have had hash balls or cakes for breakfast and one or two are left, put them |of the white feather boa mentioned are ; about ighteen inches long and as thick s arm. It took four girls ten days to twist the 4,000 ends used In these t Small tassels are used to trim fez aa collarettes, and in this way they the fur tails that Instead of the 1 fur boas resemble fur capes last year. bushy mink tails used s oft feather tass during the coming season. They a” in all colors, but the prettiest comb! shall t dyes larette has yellow tassels about eight inch- es long, set around the bottom at intervals of six or eight inches. There is a sort of jabot of yellow tasseis in front. A very handsome black cape has green tassels, which is a fashionable combination now. Out of a pound of feathers containing from sixty to eighty plumes about elght tassels can be made of the size described ow the white boa. It is a new industry, but there are already one hundred peapie at work in the factory. The product is called plume de saule. The manufacturers intend to use it in connection with novelties in fur goods. There will be ostrich tassels on fur muffs and boas, and it is possible that we shall soon see a soft favrie woven ont of the feather thread: Feather muffs being made to go with the ostrich boas. large firm in New York holds the pate: this material, but it is being scattered broadcast all over the country, and there 1s every indication that it will be the lead- ing trimming of the coming season. In making this feather thread the very best quality of plumes are used, as a poor grade would give a stringy fringe that is not pretty. with ostrich tasscls are A ee Teaching the Young Idea. Fiom Trath. “Mrs. Mortimer says sho derives mora pleasure from the education of her children than anything else.” “Yes. She's never happy unless they’re at their kindergarten.” a fis white and yellow. A white feather co | 1 THE OUTDOOR WomAN. ut Climbing Hills on Bicycle. Some Rules A a Bicycle riding in the mountains is an amusement which ought not to be under- taken without a good deal of consideration. It is a very different thing from the exer- cise as performed on asphalt streets or on level macadamized roads, such as are to be found in many country places. So far as variety and beauty of surroundings are con- cerned, mountain riding 1s vastly supericr, and its difliculties need frighten no one who has had a few months’ experience in eycling and has learned not to be afraid of climb- ing hills. A beginner would, in all proba- bility, lack the strength and training neces sary for making the ascent of steep grades, and would find the task too formidable for pleasure, says a writer in Harper’s Ba- zar. But nearly everything depends upon whether the cyclist knows how to take th. hills. She may do so in a way which wil ure hervery quickly, or she may, by exer- cising care, save herself for the completion of a long journey. As a general rule, it is better to start up every ascent quite slowly, so that one may maintain about the same pace to the top if possible. If the rider begins with a vigor ous spurt she is extremely likely, unless th« hill is very short, to give out on the way up. Ambition does not count for so much as steady, persistent pushing, though th: latter may be slow. It is a good plan to lift or pull up on the handle bars as you put the weight on the pedals. This really al- lows the machine to move forward more easily, and seems to be a natural and in- stinctive thing to do. Try to push evenly with the feet, giving the same amount of force on each side and at each revolution as nearly as you can. If the wind Is against you, it certainly is & temptation to bend forward cver the bars in the condemned “scorching” attitude, and thus escape much of its retarding effect. Although the prac- tice cannot strictly be recommended at any ume, I think In the above case it is allow able for a little distance, more especially because it serves also as a rest from the usual upright pesition. A rider climoing hills ought to be particular that she breathes deeply and regularly, and without much effert. As soon as she is obliged to pant and has a suffocating feeling, unless she breathes through her mouth, it is time to get off and walk. ———_+e+ Napoleon at Jonephine’s Grave. Memoirs of Barras. I learn that Bonaparte, having gone to La Maimaison, and having strolled about ; the grounds for some time, had come across Josephine’s grave. He had appeared to be plunged in a kind of reverie, which could not be taken for grief (a grief without tears, for Napoleon never shed any); but he was acquainted with the saying of Macbeth, and he more than once said in the course of uis terrible career, “Could I but weep.” itis courtiers respectfully passed forward to prevent his seeing the spot he had been the first to perceive. Bonaparte quickly relieved them of their embarrassment Suddenly awakening from his sham rev- erie, he exclaimed, abruptly, as was his wont, “So ‘tis here that the Empress Jo- sephine is buried? Why was she not buried at St. Denis?” As, naturally enough, no one replied to so unexpected a question, one, indeed, put to himself, he pursued with a show of ill temper, not to say anger: “‘Af- ter all, there is no cause to regret not hav- ing been buried at St. Denis; one need not be in a hurry to lie side by side with Cou- thon, Saint Just and Robespierre, for, with all their exhumations of the 31st of Janu- ary, the Bourbons, instead of recovering the bones of Louis XVI, eaten away by lime, secured only those of the members of the committee of public safety and of the com- mune, executed on the ninth thermidor, whose bodies were cast into the cemetery cf La Madeline, for they are truly the last victims who lost their lives on the Place de la Revolution.” This, then, was the sum total of Bonaparte’s sadness and affliction. The vain individual was, on this occasion, as on all others, true to his nature parvenu, as Carnot so aptly christened him; he must needs when standing by the graveside prove that there still remained in him the senti- ment of arrogance, as well as the stubborn concealment of his origin, which the sever- est lessons could not correct. ———S = IS YOUR BRAIN TIRED? Take Hersford’s Acid Phosphate. supplies the needed food for the bra! peives Sod meiboe socrtiteesy: ee PREVAILING: : STYLES ‘As Noted on the Streets and Ob- served in the: Stores. SUGGESTIONS FOR: STOUT WOMEN What is New in Hats and Coats, Gloves and Shoes. FOR ROUND TOES + T LAST THE PIL- grimage is over. Even the autumn re- sorts are thinning out, and the return- ing wanderers who throng the city thor- oughfares have a deep ruddy color that is a better souvenir of the summer's out- ing than all the sea shells, mineral speci- mens and __photo- graphic views that they brought home in their trunks. The bleached hair and enameled faces that one meets now and then look especially gro- tesque in contrast with these healthy peo- ple whose whole summer has “been one long communion with nature in her various fcrms. Alas for the vanity of foolish wo- man that drives her at once to the derma- tclogist or the druggist for a preparation that will remove these badges of good health! Fortunately, it takes time to re- move them, however, and we may expect fcr a month or more to see the streets and shops and theaters blooming with “nut brown maidens” whose “ruby, ruby lps” and rosy cheeks defy the art of the chemist to dim their radiance. Sometimes one meets a woman with an indication of health that 1s rather too ag- gressive for her own comfort and peace of mind. A manish-looking individual with too many pounds for her stature excited some interest and considerable mirth on the part of some young ladies who had not yet recovered their city manners after the freedom and Hcense granted them in their IN of solid embroidery. The velvet bodice looked something like a sleeveless jacket and something like the coat of mail that De Wolf Hopper wore as El Capitan. It is tight and has no apparent fastening, and no seams, but is made to fit the figure by means of what is known to dressmakers as the “French back,” and what might also be called a “French front’’—that is, it is laid in little folds at the waist line, and stretched in other places. An Undalating Basque. A double ribbon belt fastens with a buckle at the waist, and runs to a point above at the bust, where it Is finished with a bow ard fancy button. The bodice is continued below the waist in an undulating basque that is trimmed with three rows of nerrow velvet ribbon. The device that sug- gested the idea of amputated puffs was a short circular flounce of ribbon trimmed with velvet around the top of the sleeve. The coilar was high, and above it was a wide ruche of lace that framed the face. ‘The hat worn with this dress was a gray ish chenille siraw with maroon crown. There was a pleating of gray velvet which stood up around the crown, and in front was a bow of maroon velvet which was balanced by another at the back of the turned up brim. Gray osprey feathers drooped over each side of the brim at the back. A dress that was made of that extremely popular blue India silk with white all-over pattern had several indications of ne’ ness about it. The skirt was not very full and was trimmed with strips of lace insertion that ran down the two front seams for eighteen inches and ended in bows. The sleeves were light, but with puffs at the top that were flattened down on the outside and irimmed with a bow of dark blue ribbon. : Seen in the Stores. Here are some of the things women ob- serve in the streets; That the new felt hats are all bound around the edge with velvet; ‘That many of them have high, narrow crowns, some of which are bell shaped, and that these are trimmed with stra) of satin or velvet passing around like belts with a buckl That hats with round, flat crowns have some sort of ruche around them, made of silk or feathers, which is sometimes re- placed by four or five osirich tips or high loops of ribbon standing up like sentinels around the front of the crown; That quills and wings and heads and feathers and whole birds are the prin- cipal trimmings ana that velvet cannot be dispensed with in trimming the most ordinary hats; That coats are of smooth beaver cloth and very largely trimmed with stitching and small buttons; That some of the new white gloves have hand painted wrists, which, however, arc only being sold, as yet, at some of the smaller stores That the winter shoes will have round THE SHOPPING DISTRICT. capacity of summer girls. The stout wo- man compensated for her superfluous avoirdupois by a corresponding lack of ste in dress. For she was dressed in a ereiy plain, tight-fitting gown that em- phasized every faulty line of her figure. Of all things in the world that the stout woman should avoid, as she values the ad- miration of her friends and the silent com- inendation of her enemies, it is the appear- ance of mannishness. It is only the woman of perfect proportions who can afford to dispense with the frills and flounces that make the slender woman look stout, and hich, if they do not make a willowy dam- 1 of a feminine Sandow, at least give the nagiration a chance to work. Concealing Faulty Lines. ‘A stout woman looks especially well in drapery that hangs from the shoulder. Hence, she is at her best in a loose house iress or a tea jacket that has no waist line, but hangs from the shoulder in folds that conceal the lines of the figure. It should be as if she had no waist, except perhaps in the back. This fs a difficult rule to follow in the making of street dresses, but there are many devices which have no other reason for being than just to conceal the faulty lines about a woman’s waist, and these are the rightful property of the woman who is stout. The jacket with its long points on etch side reaching several inches below the waist is a good example, and a fall of lace from chin to a point below the waist is another. Large sleeves Gid a3 much toward beautifying her lines as they did for the woman that was too thin. But these aids to >eauty must be foregone by her as well as by her slender sister. it is remarkable with what suddenness the epidemic of small sleeves has spread. In the spring and summer we positively refused to have them in our thin dresses, and every woman of opinions stoutly maintained that she would never wear them. Meanwhile the designers have gone on quietly designing alluring styles with which to win us against our wills, and lo and behold, our new gowns have small sleeves. After all it is the general effect that we admired, and not any technical form of drapery. Woman liked the pro- portions which the large sicsves gave her. She was wide through the shoulders and narrow through the waist, a consumma- tion which has been, striven for ever since the first woman wore stays and a Medict collar. Shoulders and Waist. This effect we have preserved for us in the autumn fashions. J3y cone device or another, whether it be puff, bertha, or epaulet, the shuulder line is extended and this is enough.. But just as rigidly is the rule of the close-fitting sleeve ad- hered to. In one case the large puff looks almost like last year’s drapery, but from the front it is plainly seen that it is at- tached to the sleeve nowHere except at the top, being slashed Open in the front and edged with a strip of lace insertion, and showing the tight sleeve underneath from wrist to shoulder. Most of the sleeves are very long, with a cuff or a frill of lace hanging over the hand. The most common sleeve is the one that is tight almost to the top, then suddenly swells into a puff that is a part of the sleeve proper and not @ separate drapery. This style of dress was made with a bolero jacket that was laid in tucks on each side across the bust line. Beneath this was a tight-fitting bodice that extended below the waist In points in front, witha slight penter effect over the hips. This under-.| bodice was made of silk, but the bolero jacket and sleeves were of the same woolen material as the skirt. A dress that might be considered decided- ly “advanced” so far as the sleeves were concerned had the appearance of having had puffs that had been snipped off like the old women’s petticoat of Mother Goose fame. It was a combination of grayish brown and a warm shade of maroon velvet. ‘The skirt, which was scant, as skirts have been going lately, had some embroidery trimming around bettom that ran up the body of the skirt In points of different lengths. The sleeves were tight and made toes and thick soles, and that at this point they become lost in speculation as to whether anything will induce vain, frivo- lous and sensitive woman to allow such an ugly, ungainly looking appendage as the new shoe to peep from beneath her dainty petticoat. -——._— BLLE GLASS REVIVAL. Two Colors Alternating Are Now Con- sidered to Be Beneficial. The newest panacea for ills, imaginary and otherwise, is the color bath, or treat- ment by associated rays. Fashionable wo- men in New York are taking it up, and have turned their boudoirs into blue glass hospitals for the cure of all sorts of ail- ments, from a headache to case of typhoid fever. It is somewhat paradoxical that one should go to a blue room for relief from the blues, but there is doubtless some homeopathic principle underlying its ef- fects, and it is undoubtedly a fact that the treatment has been very efficacious 'n cases of nervous disorder. The sunlight cure is as old as Diogenes, and the blue glass remedy was used ten years ago, but the combination of two kinds of light is entirely new. It has been found that a ray from old Sol cannot be taken “in bulk,” as it were, with such beneficial effects as when it is divided un into parts and administered in blue-coated homeopathic doses. : A great many new discoveries have been made of late, relative to the properties of sunlight, of which the most important is the existence of the X ray, which caused sa much excitement at the time of its denouement. As is well known, a ray of light is ex- ceedingly complex in its makeup, being composed of the seven color rays—violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange and red, which are visible to the ordinary eye- sight—besides at least two Invisible rays, namely, the X ray of Dr. Roentgen on the violet end of the spectrum, and the infra- red ray discovered by Prof. Langley of the Smithsonian Institution. Each of these in- visible rays has a specific chemical effect which is chiefly manifested in the process of photography. It is, therefore, reason- able to infer that each of the different color rays may have its own peculiar office, chemical or otherwise. By a series of ex- periments Dr. J. Mount Bleyer of New York, who has been working on this sub- ject for many years, has been able to show that certain color rays are more efficacious in killing germs than others. He has found that the blue, red and orange rays have a pronounced chemical effect upon organic matter, and of these the blue is the most powerful. Now, there is, of course, a certain proportion of blue in every ray of light, but if the amount can be increased it is natural to suppose that its beneficial effects will be greater. For this reason it was at first believed that an entirely blue atmosphere—speak- ing literally—would be the best destroyer of germs. By experiment upon the living body, however, it was found that the undi- Inted_blue was too powerful, and finally Dr. Bleyer hit upon the plan of alternat- ing it with streaks of white. This treat- ment was at first used upon patients afflict- ed with nervcus diseases, and the effect produced was very beneficial. But owing to its known chemical effects upon germs Dr. Bleyer tried it upon the various in- fectious diseases, end with such good re- sults that he proposes, with the aid of a stock company, which has been formed by several prominent physicians, to build a hospital solely for this purpose. SS EES What He Didn’t Need. From the Buffalo Express. |. “Doctor, I feel sort of run down; what do you suppose I need?” inquire@ young Fresh- leigh as he threw himself into the physi- cian’s office chair and placed his feet on the polished oak table. “I can tell you what you don’t need,” replied the doctor, as he surveyed the = posture, “and that is a nerve ronic.”” i edging. for schcol wear the simpler the f more suitable, but be sure to pocket. Nothing is more necessary average school girl than some in to store her vy: A neat ribbon finish which would be red or a mixed ch. twisted ribbon about or plain, bows or rv general sty! CHILDREN’S DRESSES Some Designs Which May Be Suita- ble for Little Girls, VARIETY IN THE FABRICS OFFERED Garments Suitable for Play and for Other Occasions. PLAIDS AND CHEVIOTS A FULL to come befoi Little folks regularly don their heavy hats and Jackets, and mean- while mothers are doing their best to fit MONTH IS the must their children out in serviceable yet styl- ish little autumn frocks. One very puzzling item lies in the choice of material, though one would think with this fall's ar- ray of dainty woolens and whole rainbows of fashionable colors this should not be so difficult. Plaids have reappeared, as they generally do in the autumn, and this year presents an unusually large supply to choose from, fer not only the Scetch plaids but also the French and English mixtures are to be worn. Canvas fabrics are to be as popular as ever, and covert cloths, varying from the plain to the cnixture of blue, green and brow promise to find favor. Rough chevto heather mixtures or che are very suit- able for school wear, while the ever-popu- lar serges are to hold thelr own as ever. Really the most puzzling part lies in the fashioning of the little garments. y One vy pretty as well as simple little frock can be | made of either cheviot or serge «. following fashio: Sie con r Make to fit over the lining a bre of some dark shade of velvet siderably darker than the 1 have drawn down from the shoulders broad generous folds of the dress goods, which should cross, kerchief-fashion, over the chest. And cut the folds broad enough to reach under the arms nd = be ewed into the under Let the puffed, ight sleeve from el- bow to wrist, and finished off, the folds of the aist should be, by a tiny narrow ruffle of lace The skirt should be p! wi deep ple riou ever-needed the pocket this very iceable can be as well made of a dark serge. It have either a ro or a square 3 The for woul, more lish, ald extrem: ective in a very dark shade of velv Make the sleev with a full et puif and tight lower sleeves, and the s ite full, gored be the around the yoke would be v while strips of the ribbon, w nd one effective, reaching from the : where it should be fz in ttes, would add greatly to th of the dress and at the same time not make it too dre for wear. ‘A very dainty frock for wear can be m. pale blue hen: though a daint ured silk would be equally pretty. Have the main part of the frock made Mother Hubbard style, with square yoke and deep full skirt, either with or without a ruffle. And make to ripple over the full puffed sleeves a triple-pointed ruffle with a lace edging or narrow ribbon band. The yoke may be shoulder, ool little perfectly plain or be covered over by a piece of open-worked lace. This and the lace-edged crushed collar of the material finish this dainty littie outfi which would be quite suitable for party wear without being too dressy for a child. This is the time of year when the ducks | which proved too warm for summer wear can be donned to great advanta An extremely 1 well as novel, dress can little be fash- ioned after the fol- lowing manner: Let the waist be made of some thin material—a_— dainty white lawn would do —but have the sleeves, instead of simply gathered into the regulation cuff, feather-stite into small pleats fr: wrist about inches four upward. collar be of duck. and edged about by a cotton braid. ad of being simply broad band of white Let the skirt, ins And let the big sailor | * Gladness Comes ith a better understanding of the transient nature of the many phys- ical ills, which vanish before proper ef- forts—gentle efforts—pleasant efforts— rightly directed. There is comfort in the knowledge, that so many forms of sickness are not due to any actnal dis- ease, but simply to a constipated condi- tion of the system, which the pleasant family laxative, Syrup of Figs. prompt- ly removes. That is why it is the onl, remedy with millionsof fami everywhere esteemed so highly by who value good health. Its bene eects are due to the fact, that iti one remedy wh s int cleanliness without debiliteting the organs on which it acts. It is therefore all important, in order to get its bene- ficial effects, to note when you up Co. only and sold by pi le druggists. If in the enjoyment of good health, and the system is regular, laxatives or other remedies ave then not needed. If afflicted with any actual disease, one mzy be commendcd to the most skillful physicians, but if n need of ala ive, one should have the best, and with the well-informed everywhere, Syrup of Figs stands highest and is most largely usedand gives most general satisfaction. hered In, as is customary with sai be | fol ox-pleats, will fi and ive a Saunty that will be quite bewitching. broa¢ e | sailor hat or the usual duck y be | Worn with this costume, which would be | ve serviceable durir h nild autumn and do for either daytime or evening outdoor wear. Those who p uck to any extent, and who wish to vary somewhat from the familiar sailor suit, can make a very pretty — little | frock Ma ke t1 y vary somewhat from the pleats on eith WITH ONE The of a Chi- eng East From the A certain : Ne, now vis- ting in I ng to see the 2 which hap- ed to her while on the way to the ern city. > very few In whose confidence she trusted thought it very amusing, but the heroine he litle incident considers it nothing ment. than a ng predica- The y lady ok ning mid. way betwee 5 ffalo to find that the the win- ss with a shook the wn. The 1 quite as above cited, SS Was one of the hie ick > historical ev ids of the dr stock for in the f young lady’ A gust of c the bit o' above th dat tion whi of her departed stock- hot over into dark wood, ve u ave g is wher: to be lost f The young lady's first Impulse was to stop lithe train. On second thought decided not to, as a re would be ded by the c juctor—an explanation was impos- sible. On account of the low es which she wore, It required no little tact on the part of the Ashi avenue belle to hide from the other fers the fact that she wag possessed of but one stocki: She man aged to do so (at least she now thinks she | did), and made the enti » to Buffalc through that city to home of the friends she is now visiting On her next trip in a_slee young lady vows § ings to the ceiling. ing car the His re. From the Chicago Trt The Court—“Now, then, what are you here for this time?” Tuffold K “Fightin', yer honor. Me an’ had a scrap over a question o° grammar. He said it wuz right } to say “between you and I,’ an’ I said tt to be wuz a i t you rumm m the |” ‘T saw wood,” Well, that’s ¥ house for next ¢ ldo at the work- y days. Call the