Evening Star Newspaper, July 20, 1895, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JULY 20, 1895-TWENTY PAGES, 17 WOMEN AT FORTY How They Can Retain Their Good Looks at That Age. WHAT WELL-KNOWN DOCTORS SAY Some of the Evils of the Prevailing Modes of Life. CARE ABOUT THE DIET (Copyright, 1895.) VERY WOMAN would like to live to be fair, fat and for- ty if she covld. A medical gentleman of a western city re- cently made these three words—fair, fat and forty — the subject of a lecture to a class of ladies, and before preparing his subject matter he wrote to seven of the world’s most dis- tinguished medical specialists in all that pertains to women, and requested them to state what, in their op!ricn, is most es- sential for a woman to do and what !s most essential for her to avoid in order to some day attain that most enviable conditton— (fair, fat and ferty. Recognizing the inter- est and value of their replies to all wo- mankind, we have requested him to favor us with them, and are thus able to present the following most interesting symposium: + Dr. Wm, E. Ashion, demonstrator of ob- stetrics and diseases of wcmen in the Jef- ferson Medical College, Philadelphia, thus expresses himself: \{ “Z should divide the life of the woman anxious to live to be fair, fat and forty into four periods, namely: Approaching womanhood, prior to marriage, married ,life and old age. In all these periods she ‘should be careful to avold everything that @ little careful corsideration would show ‘her to be detrimental to health, and she ,Bhould be particular to observe all rules jthat common sense dictates as canducive jto her physical, mental and moral well be- ing. To clothing especially she should give |attention, being careful to regulate it in everything In accordance with the dictates of health snd not of fashion.” 4 Our So-Called Civilization. Dr. Thomas Ople, profesor of gynaecol- ‘ogy in the College of Physicians and Sur- geons, Baltimore, attacks some evils of modein scciety which are directly inimical to the attainment by our women of that enviable conditicn—fair, fat and forty. 4 “There is but little chance for our young ‘women to ever be fair, fat and forty so \crg as they continue to be impressed by the pernicious cry of a higher and still higher education for women, just when they are emerging from girlhood to wo- manhood, say between the eges of fourteen and seventeen. This Is the age of all others at which the natural strain and nervous excitement of hard study should be avoid- ea by ev2ry girl who hopes to be some day fair, fat and forty. “But not only ‘dves modern civilization @emand that a girl shall be subjected to the close ccnfinement and rigorous study of the: modern school, but it also forces her into the unhealthy auditoriums and ball rooms, inseparable from fashionable diversicns. “Ovr so-called civilization is princfpally responsible for defeating God’s intention that every woman should live to be fair, fat and forty. It grossly outrages and vio- lates nature's plan that women—and men, too—should live an outdoor life by day ‘and should rest at night. It is responsible for the wicked habit of women and chil- dren spending their lives in houses and densely crowded towns and cities. We geem to be steadily growing wiser and weaker, and until it is the case that those of our women who attain to fair, fat and forty must be the. exception and not the rule. The woman who desires to be fair, fat and forty should marry, for science confirms natural laws in the view that marriage fs, or rather ought to be, a con- servator of health and a promoter of lon- gevity. It seems to be a law of nature that women should undergo the physiolog- ical changes incident to maternity once in ‘three years during that period of her life in which it is possible to do so, and if she ‘does not she is liable to have fibroid tu- mors. « “The woman who hopes to be fair, fat nd forty should nourish her own infant at her own breast, as nature, which is imply the good will of God expressed in intends she should. No mother eens repudiate nature and substitute art the form of a nursing bottle. “The woman who lives to be fair, fat and orty, by observing nature’s laws, should live far beyond that period and pass out x life at last as unconscious of her death of her birth, for the cycle of life com- pleted, the living being simply sleeps into death when nature has her way. Thank to ‘our advanced civilization’ we cannot have this true Euthanagia in its most per- fect form, but we can approximate it much More nearly than we do.” *} Maternity Must Not Be Shirked. Dr. E. O. Dudley, professor of gynaecol- ‘ogy In the Chicago Medical College, thinks ‘that those who seek to evade the responsi- Dilities of maternity, as so many American ‘women are now believed to do, from the Jarge and constantly increasing number of childless marriages, stand no chance of Fat reaching fair, fat and forty, as will seen from his letter. E “A woman who cultivates a clear con- science ard a benevolent disposition, and avoids cant, has taken a long step in the right direction to reach fair, fat and forty. “Some of the best physical specimens of ‘womer at the age of forty—those who are fair and fat as well—with whom I am ac- quainted, have taken care to marry clean, healthy men, and have breught up large families of children. The woman who shirks maternity will not be fair and fat if she lives to be forty. On the contrary she will probably be as weazened and dried up when she reaches that age as any of the unfortunate single women whom the world calls ‘old maids." “How to be fair, fat and forty may be summed up by the words ‘elimination’ and ‘nutrition;’ that is, women desiring to live fo be fair, fat and forty should be careful throughout life to have the eliminatory functions of nature by which the waste Products of the system are gotten rid of properly performed and to be always well Bourished. “Exercise, bathing, judicious and regular habits of eating and sleeping, moderation in the use of sweets and an abundance of pure fresh afr would all be included in the proper observance of elimination and nutri- tion because they are essential to them.” Women Must Study Hygiene. Dr. F. Winckel is professor of gynaecology and director of the Royal University clinic for women in Munich. He gives his ideas on the sudject under consideration as follows: “If our women weuld live to be fair, fat and forty they must first of all become bet- ter informed in all that pertains to hygiene and the laws of life. Without a practical knowledge of these laws they cannot ob- serve them, as they must do if they would attain to fair, fat and forty. Instead of ‘elementary branches’ and so-called ‘accomplishments,’ which they are taught at school, girls should be taught to know themselves and the great laws that govern their being, that they may not through ignorance trifle with those laws, and thus entall upon them- gelves years of misery and wretchedness. hen our women may live to be fair, fat and forty ,} Tee Water and Furnace Heat Dr. Barton Cooke Hirst, professor of ob- Btetrics and diseases of women in the Uni- (versity of Pennsylvania, Philadelphia, at- tacks two of our peculiarly American in- stitutions, as will be seen below: “In brief, the following are, {n my opin- important detalls to be attended to by ‘women who desire to be some day fair, Yt and forty. A sponge bath should be every morning, with cold or cool wa- standing the while in warm water up to the calf of the leg. Even a weak constitu- tion can endure this. A vigorous rubbing with a coarse towel should follow. The breakfast should be a light one. “The room in which the individual passes most of her time should not be kept too hot with furnace air. An open fireplace Is a blessing that should be more generally appreciated. I believe in a late dinner— about 6 p.m.—bezause the family can al- ways then find plenty of time for it, and rest afterward. The meal itself should consume an hour at least, the time being taken up not by the quantity of food de- voured, but by slow eating, and it is for this reason that serving the chief meal in four or five courses is so general in Europe and is becoming so in this country. “Much ice water is decidedly injurious. I agree with Mrs. Stanley, the wife of the African explorer, who said recently that she found the middle-aged and eiderly wo- men in America inferior physically and in appearance to women of the same class in England, a fact mainly attributable to hot furnace air in the houses and the enormous consumption of ice water. In rej to exercise, I think a woman should make it a rule to be upon her feet in the open air no a@ certain length of time every day, matter what the weather. As especially for a married woman, nap or rest upon a sofa for half an hour or an hour late in the afternoon will keep @ woman fresh for the evening and pre- vent fatigue, pains in the back, etc. “Obstetrically and gynecologically, the following points are of great importance. The woman who has just undergone the pangs of maternity snould not leave her ‘bed under the most favorable circumstances in less than two weeks, and should not go down stairs for a month. During the periodical recurrence of certain physiologi- eal conditions a woman should endeavor to keep a happy mean between invalidism and health, not passing the period on a bed or sofa, and yet, on the other hand, guard- ing against going out in wet weather, danc- ing, etc." Good Digestion an Important Factor. Dr. D. Todd Gilliam, professor of ob- stetrics and gynecology in the Stamling Medical College, of Columbus, Ohio, writes as follows: “The first essential for the woman who is ambitious to be fair, fat and forty is a good digestion, which can be fostered by plain, simple diet, regular meals and no overindulgence. “She should have but few articles on her table at any one mez], and those articles should be varied frequently to suit her varying inclinations. She should observe the utmost regularity in all her habits of eating, sleeping, etc.; she should wholly avoid stimulants and stimulating condi- ments, as well as stimulating conditions of life. She should also avoid all sensual emotions and emotions of anger. These flush the face and overdistend the capil- laries, lower the tone of the circulation, and give a haggard, worn cxpression. Flushing from exercise and pure exhilarat- ing emotion is conducive to beauty. Fresh air, sunlight and outdoor exercises, neatly evenly balanced, but not tight clothing, and healthy occupation, attended with healthful amusement, all these things tend toward fair, fat and forty. “The woman who desires to attain that constitution must not use much soap, and ymust not wash her face in blood-warm water. She should not bathe oftener than three times a week unless her circum- stances render more frequent bathing ab- solutely necessary for purposes of cleanli- ness. Above all, to sum up, I would say to the woman trying to attain to the fair, fat and forty, keep year head cool, your feet warm and dry and your bowels regu- lar. Avoid worrying about anything, great or small, and always maintain a clear conscience and a benevolent disposition.” A Set of Rulcs. Dr. T. Gaillard Thomas, professor of diseases of women in the College of Physi- cians and Surgeons, New York, and sur- geon to the New York State Woman’s Hospital, lays down the following precepts to aid women in living to be fair, fat and forty: “Eat fresh animal food three times a day, and as much of other nutritious food, such as bread, crushed wheat, potatoes, rice, eggs, &c., as youcan. Between break- fast and the midday meal, the midday and ae meal and upon retiring at night rink 2 tumbler of milk or a teaspoonful of beef tea or of mutton or chicken broth. “Every morning upon rising and every night upon retiring take a sponge bath of warm water, strongly impregnated with ‘table salt, about a teacupful to an ordi- nary basin of water. Then rub thoroughly and briskly with a rough towel; the knitted tape towel is the best. “After each bath exercise for ten min- utes briskly with dumb bells, the rowing machine cr light calisthenic rods, breath- ing during this time freely and as deeply as possible. Endeavor to sleep for nine hours every night and for one hour at midday every day remove the outer cloth- ing, He quietly in bed, remain entirely wéth- out occupation and, if possible, sleep. Avoid constipation even for a single day. “Be sure that the clothing be loosely wern, and that-all the weight of the skirts be carried upon the shoulders and not upon the hips. The dress adopted by the women of our times may be very graceful and be- ccming, it may possess the great advan- tages of developing the beauties of the figure and concealing its defects, but it certainly conducive to disease and proves not only an exciting, but a predisposing cause. “For the proper performance of the func- tion of respiration an entire freedom of action shculd be given to the chest, and more especially is this needed at the base of the thorax opposite the attachment of the importent respiratory muscles, the dla- phragm. The habit of contracting the bedy at the waist by tight clothing con- fines this part as if by splints; indeed, it accomplishes just what the surgeon does who bandages the chest for a fractured rib, with the intent of limiting thoracic and substituting abdominal respiration.” SSS eS LATE FASHION NOTES. Some of the Recent ad Coming Chapges in Styles. ‘The new handkerchief will only be popular a very chort time. It is of fine lawn or cambric, tinted the shade of the frock you are to carry it with, has triple hems of white, daintily hemstitched, and sometimes it is trimmed with narrow Valenciennes lace. It cannot be called a pretty fad, for somehow a dainty woman prefers a sheer white handkerchief of lawn or linen. These come in dreams of loveliness just now, as thin as a cobweb, and with the finest embroidery done by hand. Wide hemstitch- ed borders, which take up nearly half the handkerchief, are also chic. Belts get wider and wider, and are al- most girdles now, while the buckles, so brave in cut silver and crusted with gems, remind one of Aaron’s “curious girdle of the ephod,” they are so large and cumber- some. It can’t be said that they are so very pretty, either, though they, of course, bear the stamp of expensiveness. The dear girls need no longer eye their brothers with envy, for they, too, have a knitted “golfer.” It is a hideous thing, of ary color that may be desired, and is de- signed to hug the figure like a plaster cast. Of course, it has big sleeves, and the only opening in it is on the shoulder, for you to get your head through. Then it is hook- ed, and there you are. Those who have worn them say they are the hottest things on earth. The sleeves slip down over the hands, the thing rolls up in a wad about the waist and creeps up the back of the neck, and, altogether, a ‘‘golfer” is a very uncomfortable garment. It is also intended for bicycle wear. By the way, bloomers for bicyclers are not a howling success. Some of the smart set have discarded them. The baggy trousers made so full at the waist fill out with the wind in riding, like a balloon, and make a woman look rer- fectly awful. Then, too, in a collision, the fuliness in the trousers seat is liable to catch on the saddle, pedal and bars, and that is a very dangerous proceeding. The ideal bicycle attire is a short moderately plain skirt, with trousers of the same, made rather plain—that is, without much full- ness—to be worn with leggins. Buttons are quite essential now to the completion of a chic costume. Some of these are works of art and cost like time. Hand-painted china, half as big as butter plates, set ‘n a rim of imitation stones, is swell enough for anybody. Gold and si!ver filigree, jet and plain steel buttons are also used lavishly. Pearl buttons are prettier than before in years, and are much used on wash dresses. A favorite mode is to put them in clusters of three, five or seven —very small ones—along the outside pleats on the Norfolk style blouse waists, and sometimes a row in clusters is put down the center of the middle pleat. The newest boot for women is slightly wider at the toes and laces very high. Laces and hose, like the sown, commands Dame Fashion, but she isn’t being obeyed to any extent, because a woman knows that a black shoe with green stockings and green laces would make her look like a Beardsley nightmare, and she won't stand it. DO AS THEY PLEASE Tke Liberty Which Custom Allows to American Girls. CHOOSING BOOKS AND COMPANIONS A Stricter Oversight on the Part of Parents Urged. SOME OF THE PERILS HEN DOES MORAL responsibility begin and when does it end in our care for those over whom we exercise the author- ity of guardianship? To what extent must our espionage of the young go? How soon and how’ far may they be trusted?, I have infinite faith in American young wemanhood, and be- Ueve it to be purer, truer and more trust- worthy than the young womanhood of any other nation on the face of the globe; but there are limitations placed upon all things human, end ever. the American young woman must fall under the ban if she exceeds the bounds. Indeed, I fear that, considering this a free country, she takes the same liberty that so many bump- tious foreigners do, and makes liberty and license syncnymous terms. I am in © moralizing humor because I have been trying to reason out with my- self my direct account@bility for Rose-in- bloom’s contrariness. Really, after all the time and geod advice and counsel that I have lavished on that child, it does seem to me that she cugkt to be more amenable to reason and able to jrdge for herself what is proper for a young girl to do under given conditions; but I find that I cannot trust her yet to decide nice points of eti- quette. In fact, after vetoing her proposi- tion to go wandering off in the park after sundown, alcre except for a young girl of her own age—a girl, by the way, for whom I have no particular liking, because she is so ultra educated in all the up-to-date fads of young people—Rose very emphatically declared that she guessed she was about old enough to get away from my apron strings once in a while! After sending the other girl home and lecturing Rose with some severity on the failure of age to bring accountability, I sent her to her room to reflect on her al- most unpardonable conduct, and sat myself down to study out wherein I have been re- miss in my duty to my sister. I have not found out yet, and I am afraid I never shall. I fear, though, that I have given her too much leisure, left her too much to her own devices after her lessons and tasks were ended. There is nothing much worse could happen a girl than to be left to se- lect her own pleasures and dispose of her leisure time, after she has worked her stint, and you have got out of her all that you want for the time being. Discontent and Ignorance. A growing girl is only a tender plant at best. If sho is set in suitable surround- ings, ‘all her faults pruned, her crooked Jeanings straightened and propped and mind and body properly stimulated, she will grow a shapely, well-dispositianed plant. She may not be a great beauty and her record may not be brilliant in any direc+ tion, but “they also serve who only stand and wait,” and the plant or tree whose blossoms ard fruit are not counted above the average are often admired for the fra- grant foliage or grateful shade. A girl may come in tae same category and win re- spect and admiration by the sweet fra- grance of gentle acts and merit of a well- disciplined mind, when if the weeds of dis- content and ignorance are permitted to warp her soul and dwarf her body and mind she grows thto that unlovely thing— a scandalmonger and gadabout. You may remove the props too soon. I think that fs what alls Rose. She is one of the girls whose very willfuldtss makes props necessary, but I thought her strong enough to stand alone, and have given her more freedom of late than usual. I see that I made a mistake. I did it through selfishness, too. There were so many mat- ters demanding my presence and attention, and when I got through with business I was selfish enough to seek my own comfort and pleasure, and almost shoved the child out of sight, rather glad than otherwise that she seemed to be pleasantly occupled. The recent escapade of a girl, younger than Rose, who was permitted to go to the parks and pleasure resorts unattended, ex- cept by a girl of her own age, and ‘the pos- sible years of misery that she has sowed the seed for, brougnt me to my senses, and I found on investigation that a favorite amusement for young girls is to take a book and read it in one of the parks, at least that is the excuse to get there. In itself it is harmless enough, if the book is fit, and companions proper. The other day I concluded to go with Rose. She seemed really glad that I would, declared that just girls were not always good company, and herself packed the lunch and hammock, for we were to meet.another girl on the way and make a day of it. It was a day «| of discoveries. When we got settled, I cut the leaves of-my magazine and fixed my- self for an hour or two of absolute en- joyment. The Books They Read. Soon a sentence that Ann read from the book with which she was entertaining Rose caught my attention. “I am no saint,” she read, “and I will not spend all my best days tied to the side of a sickly and sullen old man.” I was half asleep, and listened to a few more sentences be- fore I got at all curious about the manner of literature upon which they were feed- ing. The story recited that some creature was “passionately rebellious against the cruelties of her fate; when it was impos- sible to make duty look other than hate- ful to her, and when the very peril and diffculty which surrounded her love story made it the sweeter and more irresistible to her.” * * * The dangers of the intrigue which she pursued had no terrors for her, whilst the indifference which she had felt for years for her husband had deepened of late into hatred!” « a Decidedly strong food for young minds, I thought, as I raised up on my arm to see Ann dramatically throw up her hand as she read: “One is not a stick nor a stone, nor a beam of timber, nor a block of gran- ite, that one should be able to live without love all one’s days!” “Girls,” I called, “‘where did you get that book?” e “You left it on my dressing table a long time ago,” answered Rose. “I put it away, and Ann found it the otker daysand read most of it while waiting for me to come, and now she is reading it to me. Isn’t it great?” What could I say after that? It was evidently something that I had fed my own mentality upon, and Rose had a right to believe that it was fit food for her. I said no more for some time, but kept up a vigorous thinking. ~ “Dear me! And he doubted her after all,” cried Rose regretfully, when Ann read that the lover declared that no man with a reputation to lose would dare marry a woman with a tarnished character! “I don’t think it was quite fair of him to say that ‘ore loves for one’s sake, but one marries fer the world’s.’ I don’t believe that a true man would say that.’ “Oh, well, you know, the same author says that ‘the mere she sees of men, the better she likes dogs,’ returned Ann, sagely. “I think myself sometimes that they are mighty no account.” What Might Have Been. ‘This from two fifteen-year-old girls in short dresses! Positively it was awful. I sat up in the hammock to twist up my tumbled hair, and wondering how I could get that kook away from them without too much compromise of dignity on éither side, when I heard a squeaky masculine voice saying, “Ah! Delighted to meet you again. ‘This seems to be a mutually favorite spot!” and another saying, “So glad, don’t y know? I’ve been pining to see you agai Of course I was boiling over with indig- nation in a second, but on turning around to fee who it was, found it to be two inane creatures who have enougao to be evil-minded, or sense enough to know when they are gnubbed, as they were by: both the girls at once. With frigid bows to the two bobbing monkeys, who man- aged to be invited to our house once to a schcol day fete, ‘both girls turned on them and walked off to the spring, leaving the book and boys to. my mercy. I disposed of both in short erder..The girls were too much worried to-think of the one as they told me how they had been almost perse= cuted by the others. It gives me a chiil every time I think how those two girls might have behaved had they been less well dispositiored! If those two boys had been weil-bred men of the world, how do I know, how does.eny mother or sister know, what might have been the result of haif a dczen such méetings? Or even two or three? Since then I have been Rose’s shadow. If she suggests the park, she goes, and so do I. If she wants a,trip down the river, we gather up a lot of,girls and go. Girls have to have outings, and pleasures, and we think they are unreasonable about them sometimes, but I have registered a solemn vow that when this small sister of mine gets an outing now, I get one also. It is the only safe plan. One. day. last week we went down the river, and in a secluded corner of the boat, later in the pleasure grounds, and again coming back, I saw with a young lady—one old enough to know better—a man who has been forbidden her father’s house. Forbidden Acquaintances. The family is away, and the girl is sup- posed to be with an aunt in the suburb8. Nobody wants to tell her heedless mother that sorrow, perhaps disgrace, is hanging over an Kenored family name. At the con- cert in the White House grounds last Sat- urday evening. an interdicted lover of malodorous character conversed with his sweetheart for ten minutes, he on one side of a big tree and she on the other with her sister and mother. When they were aim- lessly Icoking about and paying no atten- tion to her at all, she was leaning forward and interchanging confidences with him. ‘There is not a night of the week, Sunday more than any other, that the grounds about the Smithsonian and Agricultural Department are not peopled with young girls “out for an innocent airing,” but forming mest objectionable acquaintances, laughing and singing so as to attract human hyenas, which are ever hovering in the vicinity of such prey. While some of these girls have been well pred and know better, but seek the questionable notoriety that such actions bring, the parents and guardians who should watch over them are the most to blame: They should forbid absolutely these after dark strolls. And if it is impossible to free the public parks of unattended and unchaperoned girls of tender age, then some law should be. passed, such as obtains as an “ordinance” in other cities, which makes it a finable offense for young girls to be out alone after 8 or 9 o'clock. Car riding, one of the cheap and enjoyable luxuries of a city like this, presents a serious problem for solution, when one notes, night after night, the scores of heed- less girls who ride in them, sometimes in parties, unchaperoned, and often one by herself, smilingly making the acquaintance of the quick-witted “masher,” who guesses in an instant that girls who are free to gad about in that manrer are his legiti- mate prey. The car conductors will tell you that there are men who ride after Gark for the avowed purpose of getting ac- quainted with silly girls, who have no more sense than to feel flattered by their blasting attentions. The Congressional Library presents an- other pitfall for young girls. They go there ostensibly to get books, but in reality to meet appointments, and they stroll by the hour through Sie gare lower corridors of the Capitol, feré the committee rooms and restaurants are located, and not in- frequently entbt ‘6nd lunch with their whilom male friéjds, a proceeding that would nll their'parénts with quite as much dismay as thetf,"long visit to the deserted galleries or trifg to the dome, a favored trysting place. 7 What Girls Rend. , Then, about the books that girls read! I have shown you How I was the unwitting means of introducing to two girls the books of an author whose best works are men- tioned in whispers “when girls are arcund and whose pbildséphy of life is scented with brimstoné.’ NO girl can read a book of that charactér dnd remain unsullied, if she thinks at. alf I have my doubts whether even @ wttnan’ of mature years is not wasting Her’ Ume reading the trite diatribes against‘established customs and of the “gilded” adulteration called “soul love.” Yet the same mothers who howl long and vociferously. about ballet picture boards and birds on our bonnets will let their daughters read the most abandoned trash that is printed in the name of a nov- el, and never once question the advisability of the thing. I don’t believe in letting a girl pore over a book all her leisure time, and I think it is safe to say that when a mother re- marks complacently that ‘Minnie always has her nose in a book and her head in the clouds” there is a girl whose read- ing should be edited severely and_ her brains set to work on something else. More than likely there will not be a respectable book in the long list whose contents have lumbered her brain with objectionable re- fuse, and ideas which make moonlight strolls, strange men and hasty elopements desirable. I have made up my mind that responsi- bility for the actions of these younger in years and judgment than ourselves never ceases. What do you think about it? _ SENORA SARA. ———.__ A Traveling Gown. For a traveling dress a design in ‘shot steel gray mohair is quite elegant. As simplicity should mark the character of all traveling gowns, this one is simplicity it- self, with a full nine-gored skirt, minus stiffening,,a Spanish girdled blouse bodice, with bias bands bordered with narrow red silk beading, instead of the tiresome Nor- folk pleats, and a new {dea in revers fall- ing over the sleeves, and eoming down vnder the girdle in front. The sleeves are moderately wide leg-o’-mutton, and the i 2 » ott bonnet is a hin of, head covering only. White serge ig grawing in favor for sum- mer dress skirts, and mohair in cream and in white is a elesej-second. Serge will al- ways be the most ,popular, however, be- cause it can be-daugdered, and the mohair has to go to the cleaner. There Is a pres- ent fancy for swearing dark waists with white skirts, and though odd, It is rather fetching. The waist should be blouse in effect, and rows of lace on the tucks or pleats are a pleasing addition. Dead white. trimmed with cream or yellow lace Is another fad of the season which can be commended. On the other. hand, cream, yellow and ecru-batiste, Hnen, lawn or cambric gains in style when garnished with white lace or embroidery. —_.— An Estimate of Ex-Gov. Shepherd. During ex-Goy. Shepherd’s recent stay in Washington there was introduced to him a small Loy of twelve, the son of a man who was himself a boy when the governor was at the height of his power here, and who has the.greatest admiration for him. “Governor, I want my boy to meet you; this is my son.’ “Say, papa,” said the lad in an audible urdertone, “is he the man that lifted Wash- ington out of the mud?’ “He is the.very man.” “Well,” and the boy eyed the great big — Shepherd, “he looks as if he could do rt. “HUBBY” AT HOME While Madame and the Children Are Ont of the City. THE MEN WHO ARE LEFT BEHIND Not, However, Without Some Wifely Solicitude. A MODERN DEVIOE HE SAME OLD T= is going up at every summer resort, “No men.” At pres- ent it is more polg- nant than ever, be- cause later on in the summer, according to time-honored custom, the men usually do appear in Saturday night droves, any- way. Just now the parting from their families, whether these domestic combinations mean wife ard children or simply mother and sisters, is too recent to make a deep impression in the sense of loneliness, or it may be the stay-at-home is still fully occupied mak- ing experiments how to use his liberty to the best advantage. Gossip has always been rife with the doings of left-at-home husbands. Some of it may have been true, but the largest part, Jet us charitably hope, was always ma- licious invention. The old nonsense of silly women, determined to make a show of wealth and finery at a fashionable water- ing place, while their devoted husbands or fathers toiled at home through the heat and every other discomfort to keep it all going, has been exploded long ago. Where the wife is very prominent in social doings, at any of the summer cities, ten to one she has a big establishment back of her, kept going by her individual means, and twenty to one “hubby” is its strong attraction. And if he is not, it is not her fault. But for the one family able to pull down the blinds in a city house and find itself, with numbers undiminished, en- joying all the delights of another home by the sea, or in the mountains, there are fifty others to whom the annual hegira is something of a burden, and always a problem. For the Children’s Suke: Madame and the children must get away from the heat of the town, not because ‘madame cannot stand it, she has done so dozens of times, but for the youngsters’ sake. It !s a poor education nowadays which does not include practical demonstra- tion of what the sea and the mountains and the country of the story books really means. Here is a case in point: A well- known Washington official has one daugh- ter, a bright little pet, just six years old and full of interest and inquiry as to the world in general. She saw the sea the other day for the first time and was spellbound. ‘The pebbles on the shore she thought most wonderful treasures, and in proof of it sent heme to a cherished little friend a handful of pink stones. Of the noise of the sea and the breaking of the waves on the shore, she d evi- dently some ideas of her own, and'bne was that the whole thing was an exhibition of wonderful machinery which would stop just as the clevator in a big hotel does oc- eastonally. Then came the question: “Oh, Papa, when will the last wave come in?” So, with madame and the young folks out of town, what does the stay-at-home man do with his Mberty from home ties? It is taken for granted that he works all day and every day, just the same as he does the rest of the year. Certainly that is the main reason he remains home. Occastonal- ly you meet the wife of his heart back in town again, and you wonder what brought her. If you happen to know her very best friends you will soon find out. She had heard something, or his letters grew fu ther apart, or she knew the So and So’ were in town and he was always such a goose over that crowd, or the check had not come, or, best reason of all, she wanted to see him herself, and here she is. “Yes, I got in yesterday afternoon, and I went up to tne house. Had an awful time getting in, but I succeeded,.and you ought to have heard the warwhoop Jack gave me as a welcome. There he was, sans coat, sans vest, on the back porch reading The Star, and the worst old lot of novels you ever saw piled up near him.” And she goes back next day with that one night in town doing her more good than all the weeks elsewhere. Such is woman! How the Time is Spent. A professional man was asked how his men friends spent the summer at home. “Trying to settle up unfinished business, for the wariest lawyer gets very little new business these two months. My house is closed up, except the room I occupy, the quiet is appalling, but you get used to it in a few days. There are two or three up- town hotels and cafes where you are sure to meet your friends at breakfast and din- ner, and it is a very poor fellow, indeed, who has not an acquaintance with a bright, interesting family at home, who will not be glad to see him an evening now and then. Everybody has their summer friends and the whole of them never get out of town at once. In fact, most families never go till August unless there are little chil- dren amongst, them.”” ‘The theaters, up to this time, have af- forded an opportunity to while away an idle evening. The suburban inns have had big dinner crowds to cater for, and it would be interesting reading if the names of the prominent citizens were printed who get all the recreation and fresh breeze they want between dinner and bedtime, riding around on the street cars. The bicycle might be put at the head of all diversions this summe:. It is said that the wheel and its enjoyment in town has done away with the necessity of over-Sun- day and out-of-town trips. More. than that, the bike has so leveled all imaginary so- cial distinctions that a_ lofty personage finds he can affiliate with the rest of the wheelers on the road without losing any of his own dignity. The money that hitherto went into the purchase of summer luxuries has gone or-is going into the price of a wheel. Horseback riding has been so rele- gated to the background that Jivery stable keepers are in despair. Secretary Smith is one conspicuous adherent to his lifelong en- joyment of horseback riding.. He makes his morning and evening canter fill up the time that he would ordinarily give to the home circle were Mrs. Smith and the youngsters-here. There are very few even- ings that Mr. Smith does not ride either before or after his dinner, which he takes at a restuurant not a half dozen squares from his house. Safety Stornge Device How to safely dispose of stay-at-home husbands is not any greater problem for this summer than it has been for many years back, but the time is coming when it need not be any more trouble than to stow away other valuables, for which now stor- age warehouses, safe deposit vaults ard other safe and sound hiding places are so abundantly provided. Up in Boston an experiment is being tried in a cold storage warehouse established by a refined widow lady, of uncertain years naturally, who offers to contract with going-away wives to take care of their husbands during their absence and to return them in as good con- dition as when received. Naturally, the great feature is the con- stant supervision which she will exert over her charges. While everything will be done to interest and amuse them, no breaches of discipline will be permitted, and the solicitous care and strong arms of stalwart assistants will be called in if any monkey business is attempted. He will be | required to write to his wife at frequent intervals, fresh epistolary efforts every time. The time-honored trick of preparing a week's supply of loving missives, ad- dressed and stamped and left with a trusty friend to mail datly while the writer-is off on a lark, will be impossible’ under this of both! beauty. Highest of all in Leavening Power.— Latest U.S. Gov't Report Baking Powder HAIR AND HATS, Some Suggestions Which Dame Fash- fon Considers Timely. If you are seeking a new sensation in ccrsage or coiffure you can have both by following the example of the illustration annexed. The blouse may be of silk or wash goods, for it is so simple that it will launder beautifully. The long ends of the bow are sloped, and the edge comes under tke center pleat .a good deal Ilke the old ripple revers. The arrangement of the hair is admirably adapted for one with thin locks, because the knot is two simple puffs, and the puffs may be supplemented with rolls, the side hair being waved slighty. The front hair ts waved and turned back, leaving a few fluffy curis over the forehead, with no symptom of a parting. ‘hose women and girls who are de- stroying the hair line along the side of the face, by combing the hair _ inartistically over the ears, are away behind the times, as well as lacking in taste. A woman may do as she pleases with the top of her head, but if she wishes to cling to the old Greek and Roman idea of art, and we must admit that they knew something about it, she will preserve almost intact the hair line from the level of the eyebrow on one side sround the head to the other. Especially is this true of the hair line around the lower part of the head. ‘To cut the hair there and mat it in al- leged curls is to confess that the head is badly shaped and must be covered up. However much the hair is tortured and tormented with frizzing irons and curling tongs, it will manage to look well until the woolly mass is brought forward, and the waving line about the face and neck de- stroyed. One immediately grows suspicious of this kind of a headdress, and feels very sure that a wig is worn to hide unkind nature's deficiency. This is the comme fl faut hat for the summer. It is of white chip, with a nar- row facing of black velvet under the brim, two white mercury wings standing straight out from the sides in front, and two rosettes of chiffon, or two huge roses or chrysanthemums, or something of the cab- bege character. A lace-covered band of black velvet will sometimes be added, but is not at all necessary, as two close-set rosettes in the back make quite enough garniture. The sailor hat, with a top addi- tion, in black, white and blue, is worn for “common,” but only @ woman lacking in good taste will wear the untrimmed sailor for visiting or call- ing, or in the even- ing. That it answers for a cheap head- covering is its only merit, anyhow. Big hats get more picturesque every day, under their loads of flowers and fruits and lace. The little bonnet still wears horns, but is not quite as much in evidence as formerly, because the soft sum- mer air makes it quite possible for ladies to go without bonnets of any kind in the evening. A whiff of lace fastened with a jeweled comb, three roses, a bow of rib- bon, almost anything answers as an excuse for a bonnet if a lady does not want to feel that she is bareheaded, but the very prettiest of all evening headdresses in a head of hair becomingly arranged, with a pink or two, or a half-blown rose stuck in where it will do the most effective work. It is a French fashion worthy of adop- tion. French women arrange their hair much more elaborately than we do, and they decline to disarrange thejr pretty colftures by sticking a bonnet on top of them, so of an evening, and late in the afternoon, they go about bareheaded—and they don’t reserve the big hats for the cpera, eitner. SS All in White. White duck and white pique, and more ‘The manufacturers of those ma- terials must be reaping a rich harvest, for gowns multiply, and each seems prettier thar the last. For a design, this one seems to be about right, Of course the skirt is plain; a trimmed pique or duck skirt would be a queer-looking thing to say the least. ‘The House waist is of alternate stripes of embroidery and white silk. jacket has a square collar shaped rever, bordered with a deep ruffle of fine em- broidery, which falls straight across the shoulders in the back. The hat is a shirred white chiffon with chiffon rosettes. The full-skirted ee A GIN SNOWBALL. A Police Court Witness Describes a New Summer Drink. Washington has a new summer drink. This is ss it srould be in the city where rickeys had their birth and where the mint julep blooms in its true perfection of Whetker the new concoction proves popular remains to be seen. In the Police Court one day this week a big colored man was on the stand as a wit- ness in an assault case. “What were you doing when this man got struck?” he was asked. “Wasn't doin’ nothin’.” “You must have been doing something,” said Judge Miller rather sternly. “Well, I was leanin’ up agen the counter a drinkin’ a snowball.” “Drinking a snowball?" “Yassir; a gin snowball.” Further investigation developed the fact that a gin snow is made just like the delicacies that are sold to small children on the street at a cent apiece. Instead of vanilla or strawberry, however, being poured over the crushed ice, a good meas- ure of bad gin is used as a flavoring ex- tract. A gin snowball is said to be very efficacious in dealing with a thirst for liquor, and it’s rather “quick on the trig- ger,” so to speak. —— Time Limit Forbid It. From Harper’s Bazar. “Excuse me, sir," said the man in the row behind, “but would you mind asking your wife to remove her hat? I assure you that I cannot see a thing on the stage.” “I'd like to oblige you, sir, but it is im- possible,” said the man addressed. “We wens of town and we must get home to- night.” ‘What has that to do with it?” “What has that to do with it? Why, our train goes twenty minutes after the end of the performance, and it takes her an hour to that hat on.” | pel put A Farce. From the New Budget, Dramatis persomae: He, and She (his wife). She—Henry, the carrier, has brought the wall paper. Let’s begin; the paste is all ready. He—How much paper did you get? “She—Six pieces. ‘The man said we should want eight, but, of course, he was only trying to cheat me. I know six will be plenty. ’ He—But suppose we spoil a lot? She—Ah, but we shan’t. It’s quite easy. I watched a man doing it at Uncle Fred’s last spring, and he didn't spoil a bit. Come along. (They go along.) I’ve measured the wall, and we want ninety inches in each length. (They measure a strip of paper.) Now, the paste. He (pasting)—What stuff it is! I’m sticky up to my elbows already. If I'd knowr what a messy job it was, I'd have had @ man to do it. She—But think what we save! We shal’ do the whole room for half a crown. We'l’ begin in this corner. Take the strip by the top, and get on to the stepladder. (He at- tempts to do so. Several feet of paper cur” around his legs, and adhere firmly to his ss ‘ fe (tearing off the paper)—Just look at my clothes! How ow earth can I walk abou with a dozen yards of this fiendish stuff without getting mixed up in it? She—There! I quite forgot. We ought to- have turned up the end. Never mind; bet- as ey next time. e—There’s elght feet of paper wasted anyhow! (A length is ited — oo isn’t roa =e e—They'll come out when it dri Just rub it with the cloth. ae Hy He—Now all the confcurded color begir- to run! That comes of buying such wretch ed cheap stuff. She—It doesn’t matter much for a nure ery; and it won't look bad when it’s allk: all_over. Next strip. He (examining paper)—Look here, Dolly this paper isn't all the same color. The b‘t on the wall is ever so much darker thar the roll. - She—So it is! They must have given us a faded piece. What a shame! He—Then they’ll just have to take §* back. We'd better chuck it up till we ge the proper stuff. She—I'm afraid we must. (They chuc” it up. After an Interval she returns ane finds that the hung paper has become light- er on drying. Operations are resumed.) He (after hanging another strip)—Hullo’ hae this confounded space all down the side? She—How stupid of us! We never cut 07 the edge. He—Stupid of us! I like that. I don’: pratend to know anything about it. She—Don’t be angry, dear. We're sure t- - make a few mistakes at first. We car easily cover the join. Cut the edge off ths next plece, anyhow (He cuts. The roll goes through severa’ incorven'ent automatic evolutions.) He—Boa constrictors aren’t in It with thi squirming paper. I wish you'd hold 1 steady. Look! the miserable thing has rol!- ed up on to the point of the scissors an. made a great hole. She—Never mind, dear. It won't shor when it’s up. You might hang the nex strip a little straigitter, though. That las: one doesn’t nearly fit at the cefling. He (testily)—When I put it straight the top you said it didn’t fit at the side. I can’t help it. I wonder who the idiot was that invented wall paper? (Savagely.) J should like to kick him. She—For goodness sake, don’t lose you: temper, or we shall never finish. He (groaning)—All right; come on. (O- the ladder.) How am I to hang this, wit:: that bell thing In the way? She—Can't you pull,it out and put it back afterward? He (crossly)—I'm afraid not. Both m™ hands are engaged, and I can’t reach {: with my teeth. She—Don’t be silly. I'll hold the paper. a dead fixture; if I get it ov: half the wall will come down. She—Then we must cut the paper to f* it. Just measure where the bell comes (He measures; she tries to cut the we° paper, which drags on the floor and ge‘. hopelessly crumpled.) He—That’s no good. Another piece was:- She—What does one strip matter? I mur cut it before we paste. (Does so. While t~ is adjusting it the stepladder wobbles. E clutches at the wall, rubbing eff a larg: piece of damp paper.) He—That’s pretty, isn’t it? I won’t ur these rotten steps any more. (Hurls the steps out of the door.) She (soothingly)}—You can stand on chair, dear. It will be ever so much easi to move about. He (after a great struggle to paper fit a corner)—Ugh! and wrinkled! Why can’t builders round of: the corners decently? I must have some-_ thing to drink; I feel as if I'd walked ter . miles. I pity the poor devils who have to make a living at this game. * Qnterval for Refreshments.) He (after half an hour's work)—I'm jus? about sick of thi. Look st the wrinkles. and the smears, and the gaps! I wouldn't ask a dog to live’in the room. The chil dren will all get squints or some awfu! optical disease, I know; and it’s ten to one there’s arsenic in these cheap papers. She—Nonsehse! That last strip was much better—we’re improving. Shall we pe down the first few pieces and start fresh? He—Great heavens! I wouldn’t do aepoe for ten pounds! I feel like a botied as it is, with this melted butter stuff all over me. Come on! don’t stand staring, wher you might be cutting a fresh strip. She—I’m sure a boiled cod wouldn't have such an awful temper! He—I'll bet it would if it had taken’on 2 La She—I’m not going to argue. You ca~ say it's all my fault, if you like. Just be- cause I try to save a little money! An’ you grumble so fearfully at the bills. He—Grumble! I should think so. I'm no* a millionaire, and if I had thousanc a year— sae you going on with this papering or not He—I don’t mind. Anything to oblige you, darling.. (He mounts the chair, which collapses, depositing him on the floor in a winding sheet of sticky paper. He emerges profaning.) I’m not proposing to do any more. It isn’t worth it, breaking one’s neck for twopence-ha’penny. (Wipes the paste’ out of his hair and kicks the chair into a corner.) You can finish it yourself, if you want to. She—You know I can’t do {t without you. He—Very well. I'll write to Jenkins to send out a man tomorrow; and if ever you catch me trying any of these insane eco- nomical dodges again, you can have me locked up as a lunatic. (Retires in a furi- ous temper, and sulks for a week.) —__+o+—__—__ The Overworked Extremity, 7 From Tztth. A Mrs. O’Relley—“And phwat are yez read- in’ over there, all in your rockin’ chair so fine?” ; Mrs. Maginnes (too busy to look up)—“ ‘A Slave’s Fate". - Mrs. O’Reiley—“Huh! It do beat all how crews about fate since that Trilby fms > i