Evening Star Newspaper, May 11, 1895, Page 16

Ni 16 FOR JUNE BRIDES The Wedding Gown and Some of ‘a Its Modern Phases, SOME POINTS ABOUT TRAINS The Stiff Bosomed Shirt to Be Laid Aside. POPULAR SUMMER GOODS ——e Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HERE IS ONE time in a maiden’s fh of f life when she knows that she may wear white and no one will cavil. That is on her wedding day, for there is no civiliza- tion that does not deem white the prop- er attire for the wo- } man whois led a maid to the altar. The widow must not wear white. When she goes a second time to plight her troth she must gown herself in gray or some other subdued colcr; white is for the vir- gin. About the white wedding gown Is gathered all the romance of life’s pretty love dreams, and its purity symbolizes that of the maiden’s heart which beats un- der “the shimmer of satin and flutings of lace.” All the poetry of the trousseau cen- ters in the single gown, and though th be dozens of others no one cares a straw about them if the gown itself may not be seen, Elegant simplicity should always charac- terize the weéding gov It may be of the richest satin that Lyon's looms can turn out, or it may be of silk like cobwebs for fineness; only Paris muslin may be em- lover whatever the material its make must be faultless, its fit perfect and its lines simple and flowing. Of course there choice in materials for wedding gowns; = have the appearance of being there because of their costliness. A remarkably pretty floral decoration for the room in which the ceremony is performed is to fasten set bou- quets of flatly made-up flowers to the walls at regular intervals, and festoon ribbons from one to the other with bow knots to tie them. The summer season will see the stiff- bosomed shirt laid aside by up-to-date dressers, and shirt waists of percale, linen or other wash materials will be worn in their stead, and they will be very simply made, too. They will not have yokes, as they did last season, but will still support heard-like turn-over collars and cuffs. The | tie that is most liked to wear with these shirts is a long soft silk one that will have flowing ends to the belt after it is sailor knotted under the chin. Nice little ribbon tie: into a bow will also be accepta- ble. § ouse waists will be made much the same, but they will have very full rut- fles up the front pleat, and the ruffles will edged with embroidery or lace, both which will be used without stint on j summer gown, be it silk, cotton, linen | or wool. It is such a pretty fashion, it will | | be a pity to have !t vulgarized and made so common as to drive it out of vogue by the horrible attempts that some will make 1, or cloud-like tulle and chiffon, but ; is a wide | to be “leaders” in the fashion. It looks now as though mohair was to be | the popular summer outing goods,in a very | large degree supplanting serge, with which | it compared quite favorably’ as a dust | shedder. Silk-back mohair is an excel- | lent materia!, and comes in the daintiest | of designs for a gowns. Soft quiet shades having tiny flowers in silk and natu colors on the surface. Then there broche mohairs that run the duchesse, peau de soie, Merveilleux, peau de dame, bengaline, all are rich and thicic and stiff enough “to stand their lone,” as our grandmothers used to say, and it would be gilding refined gold to try to add to their elegance with puffs and ruffles and frills such as decorate the crdinary reception gown. Even the bodices escape the smothering in trimming that !s now so common, only a Uittle lace, and full effects of the self same material caught with orange blossoms are ever seen. Ribbon bows are too frivolous for a wedding gown, and velvet is never employed. The general style of wedding gowns never changes much. Though skirts may widen, or sleeves puff up like balloons; though bodices stop at the waist line, or creep up under the arms; whether trains are shorter or longer, court or empire, it does not much matter. The wedding gown has al- ways a long train, it is most often princess in form, it is always high in the neck, long in the sleeves, and has a generous sweep in width. Of course it conforms in general style to the mode prevailing, but in the features mentioned it seldom changes. The princess style is much favored, its perfect simplicity of outline adapting itself to the rich materials generally used. A very elegant illustration of a trimmed princess will be worn by a June bride, who is tall and able to bear off its severe outlines. It has a foot ruffle clear around the long train, and over that falls a cornet drapery caught at the top of each pleat with a trailing bunch of orange blossoms, the lace showing un- derneath. The tightly fitted bodice has two bands of guipure d’Alencon, with clusters of orange blossoms on the shoulders and at the belt line. The large sleeves are caught in a big puff at the elbow, over a lace ruffie that comes half way to the wrist over the tightly fitted coat sleeve. A col- lar of orange blossoms and point d’Alencon veil caught well back on the hair with orange blossoms completes the striking toilet, which is made of ivory ottoman silk. Quite as elegant, though less elaborately trimmed, is a pearl white peau de sole with a long-trained, nine-gored skirt, each gore outlined With silk cording of the peau de sole. At the foot along each gore Is a long cluster of lilles of the valley, and a dainty collar of the lilies upholds a gui- pure lace frill. The upper part of the bod- ipure, with soft caught over it folds of the peau de with rosettes. The sleeves have balloon puffs, ecavght at the wrist with a rosette and then fall over the handsin mousque- taire style. The hair is arranged high and the veil is caught with lilies of the valley, the fold of tulle falling to the front. An- other gown of ivory ottoman ts much the same mode, but has white rose garniture, and a bouquet carried. A very elaborate wedding gown has a long godet train and the bodice has a semi- zouave jacket effect in pearl embroidered point d’Alencon. The veil is adjusted from a@ crown of orang blossgms and fal) long unbroken lines to the end of the train. A court train is sometimes worn, but it is so heavy and pulls so uncomfortably from the shoulders that not many brides are heroic enough toyape this fashion of royalty. A_ pretty and graceful effect may be objained with the Watteau court train, which tarts from the shoulders under a diamond buckle, with wings of lace meet- ing the epauleties over the shoulders. With this train the veil ts not so heavy and is caught well to the back. The Jure bride will carry roses, either an or bride, and her maids will carry es, or, perhaps, pink. It would be an offense unpardonable to carry anything else in the rare rose month. A great many brides prefer to carry a white bound prayer book instead of the regulation bouquet, “from which the service is read. If they fok- low that custom a diminutive bridesmaid, in dainty gown of lace and silk, wide hat and nodding plumes, attends her, carrying a@ basket of flowers. A pretty fashton that obtains abroad is for the bridesmaids to Tange themselves along each side of the aisle holding broad white ribbons to form a lane down whklf the bride walks to the altar. Th can never be too many flow- ers at a wedding, either in the church cr at the Rome. gamut of fashionable colors and are figur- ed exactly like the pompadour style of silk. There are others which closely imitate taf- feta silk, and others that look like crinkled crepon, and yet aren’t crinkled a bit, so do not catch the dust as crepon does. Mohair whip cord {s another one of its vagaries and it is mighty handsome goods for out- ing gowns. Pique, which will run a race with duck, now comes in checks, and under that masquerade you will not recognize the old favorite at all. The checks are of dark on white, and all colors and shades. Chal- lies, the Soft thin, yet firmly woven French fabrics, in most ravishing colorings will be much used for summer gowns for cool days THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAY 11, 1895-TWENTY PAGES. THE CARE OF HANDS Lack of Attention Rather Than Work Spoils Their Appearance. SOMETHING ABOUT THE TREATMENT Hints About the Feet and How to Use Them. AS TO TIGHT LACING ——_>—_—_ Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. TIS THE HAND OF a lady, I heard one [es say to another in an open car the other day, and they were evidently dis- cussing the bare hand of a plainly attired woman, as it lay over the back of the seat she occupied, half buri mass of wild flowers she had been gathe’ ing. I think it foreign-locking ring U she were which first attracted their attention, the curious, and then the strong, firm hand, with its slender, well-kept fingers, came under in- spection. “How can you tell that?” asked the other man, with an amused smile. “Does good blood show in the hand as well as the foo “Indeed it does,” was the quick re- sponse. “I never knew it to fail. If you want to know whether boasted blue blood has run out or not, look at the hands, man or woman, you can read their hands like a book. The women in the family that those hands belong to have been gently bred for generations. You can see for yourself that the hand is well formed with gracefully tapering finge vhich sh has not permitted the hard work she ha! evidently done to hinder the care of. Her nails are perfectiy shaped and well kept, and her hand is not hardened by undue ex- posure. See that glove on the oe itis) mended and patched, but it was a good giove to start with, and she is so jealous ef the appear: of hands that she cbmits to W reputable-looking gloves rather than go bare-handed. Only u Woman of gentle instincts for her hands that w I ‘would be willing to wager that, , she is wearing a good sh ts.” Just then a third man joine@ them, and | they forget everything eise in an earnest discussion about politics, but I began to look at hands and to wish that the wo- | man with “the’ would get off so | that I could get a glimpse of her feet and see if the analogy was borne out. I rode and rode and rode, far beyor my de: tion. The men all got off at the tre building, and I began to think that the weman was never going to get off, but she did at last, and I did see her boots. The man knew what he was talking about. Her shoes were pathetically patched and hopelessly’ broken outside of the patches, but they were fine and fitted as only a good shoe can, as long as enough of it remains to button. Since then I have been study- ing hands and feet till I've nearly got nervous prostration, and I have made up my mind that it is a singular fact that shapely feet and hands go together, and that neglect of one is almost a’ sure evidence of neglect of the other. I asked Elaine what she thought of the theory, and her views quite coincided with those of the man, but she would not go quite as far as he did. ae The Care of the Hands, “A truly refined woman Is jealously care- ful of her hands, because they are so much in evidence, and the details of a hand- some toilet bring out defects in one’s and evenings. They, too, have gone off sporting as something else, and sometimes you will think it is cheviot you are looking at till you get it in your fingers and find it is only half as heavy as cheviot, and a thousand times prettier. Both the silk and Scotch ginghams are coming to the front again, and in lovelier colors than ever be- fore. It really looks as though all the art- ists in the world were turning their atten- tion to designing for dress fabrics and rib- bons, they are so truly artistic and elegant, even in the commonest materials. SS FOR THE SNORERS. A Suggestion as to How to Get Rid of the Noisy Infliction. From the New York Journal. A story of Lord Aberdeen as a snorer is going the rounds. One morning, after a night on the rail- way, a fellow-passenger asked his lordship whether he was a man of wealth. Humoring the man, whom he took for a crank, Aberdeen admitted that he was pos- sessed of considerable property. How much? “Well, perhaps £150,000, as “Well,” was the rejoinder, “if I were worth as much as you are and snored as loudly I would take a rallway carriage to myself, so that my fellow-passengers might sleep a little.” A Philadelphia woman, having suffered much in mind and body ‘by her husband's snoring, finally applied for a divorce from him on the ground of cruelty. Her attorney filed the bill of divoree, but disliking to go to an extreme went to work to tind a cure for snoring and did it. The remedy consists of olive oil and mus- six drops of the former to a pinch of the latter, taken just before going to bed. The function of the oil is that of a lubri- cant to the larynx, while the mustard is a counter irritant. The defendant tried the remedy and found it worked like a charm and now the family are once more happy in their home. : But why do you ee Doctors in Arkans: From the Indianapolis Journal. “You began practice in Arkansas, did you not, doctor?” “Yes,” replied the physician, “I did. I would have gotten along all right if it had not been for my diploma. It occurred to one of the natives to ask what it was. “My diploma,’ I answered, ‘is from one of the best schools in the country. “You don’t mean to tell me,’ said the old man, ‘that you had ter go to school to larn your trade, do ye?” “ertainly,’ said I. “That Is enough fer me,’ said the old man; ‘any feller that hain't got no more nateral serse that he has to go to school to larn to be a doctor, an’ him a grown hands in a most lamentable manner, but I have known women of refined tastes who had dreadful looking hands just because they had not the slightest idea how to correct the results of carelessness that had d under a} ser rounding fashion nearly to the quick. After you get chemi tn shape again and growing ealthily let them grow a bit longer, but never wear long nails or pointed ones. Seme of the Details. “After filing, rub the nail and ends of the fingers with a little vaseline till it is well soaked up, then dip‘ 'the polisher in the powder and burnish, the nails gently. It takes five minutes or more to polish the nails properly. Then“'take the nail brush and scrub your handg' till all the pink pow- der has disappeared, rinse them in clear water and wipe them dry. Never use the scissors to cut the ‘Cuticle yourself. You will botch it sure. ie powder will wear the skin off. That is afl there is to it. Once a week is often enough for the filing. There are some things you must remember, though. You have ‘your hands in soapy water quite often, and ‘that takes the nat- ural moisture out of the skin, and causes the hands to chap and roughen. On the other hand, if you do. not wash them clean and wipe them dry, they will roughen. “Always rinse the soap off your hands Lefore wiping them; never wash in cold water, and wear gloves of some description outdoors. A lady never appears on the street without gloves, you know, but the gloves must not be tight. Somebody said once that tight gloves made wrinkles on the face, and I am not sure that he isn’t right. A tight glove is worse torcure thi the toothache, and injures the hand be- sides. The woman who wants to have a white hand must not draw her corset strings tight, either, for scientists say that ligatures or stricture about the waist will make the hands red by restricting the culation. Houzework will not hurt hands that are carefully manicured. old gloves should be used when nd at all oth of the r the hands i the Large weeping, er times when it is possible. mplest and safest ointments made of equal parts of ay rum and glycerine. Glycerine is seldom to be recommended for the face, but noth- ing equals t ure for the hands. Use at night, rubbing it well into the skin.” an seline cn mine,” said Jennie, ‘ard it doesn’t help them in the least.” “No, and it never will. Vaseline is good _face, and I particularly like it for ing for the scalp, but on the hands to be of no benefit whatever.” Dorothy came limping in, and ch to my secret pleasure, that go one inch out of the hous ause of aching feet. But my pleasure hort-lived, for Elaine prompt- 1y red her that she could soon fix up her feet for her, and carried her off to ex- ment upon them. When Elaine came ck I asked her how she went about re- Heving Dorothy's suftering. About Fashionable Shoes. declared, m) could n night b “Well, in the first place, I made her promise not to put on those new pointed toed patent leather boots again this sea- son, and never to be so foolish, with her tender feet, as to buy another pair of that style. I ta metimes I'd like to be supreme lawmaker long enough to impris the inventors of ‘fool’ fads in shoes. High heels, pointed and n $ great de: f domest man whose feet are al- $ aching is next thing to a fiend afte she has been on them all day, and yet she shionable shoes, though she ave her on the verge akes them off at that afflict a felt in her feet. ill-made shoes and used thousands of case y of temper’ and con: yoman mak I really belie aching feet have quent div te of my feet. I nicure my feet exactly as I do my finger nils, and Ido both ouge a week. I gave Dorothy's feet a treatment, and then put her in’ an easy chgir and’ her feet in a bath of hot water made quite strong with sait. That will rest they and take out the soreness quicker than anything I know of. If one’s fe re a,great deal, a hot bath in which a little alcohol or alum has been put is very good. | SENORA SARA. SLEEVES AND SKIRTS. Devices for Preserving the Stylish Ap- pearance of These Dress Features. It was bound to come, you know. Sleeves containing the major portion of a bolt of cloth, to say nothing of the linings and trimmings, couldn't’ be ‘expected to stand up under the accumulated weight, and so had to have a trellis built for them, Horse- hair, though it was doubled in thickness and trebled in value, failed to fill the re- quirements, so the inventor stepped in, and from the gray matter of his brain Ived a sleeve bus- name of the object, and if gone on since childhood. Mothers are to blame for most of, the ugly hands,” Elaine asserted with much emphasis. | She is nearly as hard on mothers as I am. “In the first place, they do not teach children how to wash their hands. They dabble them in a basin of cold water without soap—children and soap are dead- ly enemies—and half dry them, and go out to play in the wind and sun. Soon the mother begins to wonder why Tom's hands are so rough and how it Is that she can never get the grimy hands of her small daughter to look like anything. The fact of the matter is that all they need is plenty of soap and water at the proper time, a nail brush, a clean soft towel and a lit- tle common sense in using the utensils. Of course, you can't actually reshape an ugly hand or an ugly foot, but you can care for and dress both so that they will look quite presentable if you have pa- tience and verance."” “But how?” asked Bobbie, cuddling up to her on a hassock. “See those?” holding up her own small hands, well shaped, but with badly bitten nails.’ “Tell me how to cultivate them so that they will impress the best man at Bess’ wedding as being the hands of a ‘woman of gentle breed- ing.’ I hear that he has a title in prospect, and there is no knowing what might hap- pen. If I only had money, now. I have a very sizeable foot, you know, but they won't walk me into a titled home, I fear, unless shod with gold. Mary wrote me from London that she really believed that one cause of the stringency in the American money market was the transfer to Europe of so many millions of gold along with American girls who exchange the yellow coins for titles. Isn’t it just awful?” “Which? ‘The disfigured hands or the lack of titled honors?” asked Elaine, as she applied her knife file to Bobbie's nails. “Oh, both," was the quick response. “But the nails can be mended and the title busi- ness can't, so we will cure the ills we have. Ouch! Oh! you made the blood come, and ther is a nasty old hang nail,” and Bobbie impatiently snatched her fingers away and popped the hurt one in her mouth, woman ike. When Well Groomed. “I am so sorry,” cried Elaine regretfully. “I knew better than to touch your nails when your fingers were dry; now get me a bowl of water—no, wait, I’ll get my uten-/ sils and manicure your nai if and teach you how. It is so easy to do, and adds so much to one’s comfort.” And in about five minutes my sitting room looked like a manicure parlor, but I was as much interested as the girls. Elaine is so dainty and easy about everythin “Is that all the machinery you use?” asked Nora in surprise, as Elaine placed a basket beside her chair, containing a nail brush and file, a cake of fine soap, a small pair of scissors, a box of nail’, powder, chamois pad, bottle of vaselife, and brought a bowl of warin water, well soap- ed, and towels. “Why, Madame Polish has a regular tool shop and drug store that she uses on my nails, and my manicure set has about a dozen pieces.” “There is everything in this basket that is necessary to turn out a well-groomed hand,” replied Elaine, as she put Bobbie's hands to “soak,” as she called it. “It only adds dignity to the office of the manicure to have the other things around, very few of them being necessary except in extreme cases. Now, Bobbie, pay attention to what I tell you, for positively this is the last time I shall instruct you in something that you really know as well as I do. In the first place, if you will keep the skin at the roots of your nails pressed back till tHe half-moon shows, you will never have hang nails or be tempted to bite them. ‘The mother who finds that her little girl bites her nails will be able to cure the bad habit in less than a month by keeping the skin pressed back and the nail smoothly trimmed well down to the quick. “You must soak your fingers for at Feast five minutes in warm, soapy water before man, ain't no man fer me,’ and he jammed his hands into his pockets and walked out. F stayed six weeks more and gave ft up. ——_—_—_+a0—___ As Ordered. | From the Chicago Record, Patron (in basement restaurant)—"“Gimme pigs’ feet and a dish of mashed potatoes | extra.” Waiter (shouting the order through his But the flowers should never ! nds}—“Trilby fes one; Little Billee on the side!” you begin to press the skin back. In fact, you must never touch your nails except when they are damp, or you may break the skin and cause hang nails, as I foolish- ly did just now. After soaking, use the nail file very gently in pushing the skin back, as the nail is extremely tender and the tinfest bruise will cause a white spot to come. This growth of skin, tight at the root of the nail, causes a sensation of ner- looks go for anything the woman who would wear one ought to be put in a straight jacket as punishment for cru- elty to animals. The sleeve bustle is a kind of cage of heavy wire, . which fits over the top of the arm, fastened to the slecve at the armhole, and strap- ped around the arm just above the elbow, where it fastens with a buckle. It is stiff and ungraceful, and the woman who wears it—and there are really women who do—looks as though her sleeves were stuffed with baled hay. A young High School girl knows a trick worth two of the steel cage kind. She was afraid to dance a round dance for fear her precious “balloon” sleeves would be crush- ed in a too fervid embrace, but now she can even ride in a 3-cent herdic unruftled. She made a pair of sleeve linings out of thin, fine linen, and then she puffed at the top one thickness of fiber chamois, finished the sleeve, top and bottom—it does not come much below the elbow—put hooks in the armhole of her dresses and eyes on the armhole of the sleeves. Ske hooks the puffs in ~he gown she wants to wear, and as they never crush, she is correspond- ingly happy. The howl against hoops has kept the real article from putting in an appearance, but there are numerous substitutes. One is a slender steel in the bottom of the gow and it really half bad, on an annoying fashion of getting in between the legs on a windy day and tripping cne up, but a scheming woman has a trick worth two of that. She had not time to put wires in the bot- tom of her gowns,and wasn’t sure that she wanted them anyhow. So her a black petticoat an inch or more shorter than she wears her skirts, She run two casings on t, which is not quite two and a half round the bottom, then she put two inch ruffles on the bottom, entirely covering up th s. Then she got two two-and-a-half-yard strips of the steel that es, and slipped it in the casings, smoothly as in a dress. The re- sult is more than satisfactory. It isn’t a bit heavy, it can be worn under any dark dress, and it hangs jn pretty convolutions, making the gown stand out as though wired and stiffened. She intends to make a white one also for wear under a_ thin gown. The skirt , Should be made by the plain four-gored pattern, be a tiny bit shorter in the back and fit easily around the hips. Really that sounds awfully near haying hoops. In the shops a kind of hoop skirt is shown made ofhaireloth. It is a simple gored skirt faeed to the Knees with the stiff un- wieldy haircloth. Such a skirt costs like the mischitf and will be a torment because the ends of the haircloth will stick through anything but tin, and they scratch and irritate the flesh dreadfully. ‘This craze for inflation seems to have struck the American woman all of a heap, but as violent fevers soon burn themselves out, it is fair to suppose that by autumn the latest French fashions of falling sleeves and softly draped skirts will have arrived and all the women will have become Pris- cillas of attenuation. ——-— But His Head Was. From the New York World. “Doctor, I have an important physto- logical question to ask you. When I stand on my head the blood rushes into my head. n't vousness, which leads to biting the nails. Scrape away all the dead skin, and clean the nail. Then file the end of the nai} in New, when I stand on my feet, why does it not rush into my feet?” “Because your feet are not hollo FOR HORSEBACK ‘WEAR. The Modish Habit That is Considered “Quite Correct. White duck for riding habits. It is En- glish, you know. Besides being English it is very pretty, and a woman never looks handsomer or more stylish than when togged out in white duck, with a firm seat above a fine, well-groomed horse. Nan- keen and striped pique and whip cord are also worn. It is somewhat odd, but riding habits have changed very little in the last hun- dred’ years. A century ago it was quite the proper thing to wear a high-crowned hat, and it is the same now. A cute little short-waisted, tight-fitting bodice was worn a century ago, and it is yet worn, elongated in the waist and shortened on the shoulders. A century ago the stiff shirt was tabooed, but in its place was worn a silken waistcoat, with a lot of beautiful lace frills about the neck and down over the bosom and falling over the hands. The skirts were almost as short and scant as now; it was not till the middle of the century that the long-flowing skirts came in. The style of habit sleeves has changed but slightly in a hundred years, for the inflated sleeve of the present is never seen on the modish habit. A few demand it, but the swell habit makers would as soon put a bertha on an evening coat as big sleeves in a habit thatewas to go out bearing their name. ‘The white duck habits are quite plainly made, ard are not fitted to sit in as the cloth ones are, as that would render them difficult to launder, and one wearing is all a well-groomed woman will get out of one. With a white duck or white cloth, and the English girls are as fond of one as the other, a combination suit of ivory silk un- dergarments is worn and Jersey silk trou- sers over that The equestrienne — corset is a mere girdle, well boned. The white shirt must have col- lars and cuffs at- tached, and be most immaculately —laun- dered, and worn with a black tie, fastened with a prim little knct. The waistcoat y be of black satin, but it is more modish to have it white. The coat has a longish, rather plain skirt, and buttons with three buttons, low down, so as to display the waistcoat. The hat should be a high black one, and the gloves white with black stitching. If the high hat is objectionable, then a white sailor is per- mitted, but you must stay off the fashiona- ble promenades and driveways if you will ° unconventional. In the country, course, anything will do. You may wear a black silk skirt there, with a white waistcoat, a tennis jacket, and put a derby of ¢ color above your locks, but the thing, and The to be quoted as ad- ny one to adopt such a habit. h habit is black cloth made in the severest Black is | sic habit cloth. Stiff linen, white satin waistcoat, black tie, black silk under- ther boots, high garments, black patent le mustard suedes black hat and light glov stitched with scarlet. Now, there is the correct habit for the good dresser. Of course, she won't have half the fun that the girl will who clambers on her bare- backed steed and races down the tree- shaded lanes after the cows, but she will have the proud satisfaction of know- ing that there isn’t anybody on earth who can excel her in a stylish mount, and for the society’ wo- man, that is quite fun enough. Some very hand- some habits are shown by the London and Paris houses in blue and some in gray cloth, and to go with these are high hats of the same color. The cloth habit is usually fitted while the wearer sits on a saddle, and is shaped to the form. Of course, these habits look very elegant, so long as the wearer does not move a mus- cle, but when she docs—well, then they don’t look so well, but, of course, the wo- man who goes in for habit does not care for the riding, and as she canters along in a mild way, she knows that she looks pret- ty, and that fills the aim of her ambition. The woman who hunts, and goes cross country to hounds, and takes a gallop before breakfast, will wear a_ substantial, well-made habit of serge of some dark shade, green, blue or black,made with room enough for her to sit comfortably, and split up the under side nearly to the knees. In a habit like that she simply can’t get caught on_ her saddle horns, or hung on any fence that her horse may like to take. She will probably wear rather a wide- brimmed derby, do her hair in a good tight wad, push back her bangs and take to batiste shirts without starch, but she will ride well, and have more pink coats around her than any three girls in the chase. coe einen ided It. How He De: From the Atlanta Journal. “A wire-grass Georgia judge has just de- cided a big dog case.” “How did it turn out?” “You see, a man went to Texas and left his dog with a neighbor, and when he came back he wanted the dog.” “Well?” “The judge decided that the man who had the dog didn’t have a title, and that a fellow who would leave a good dog ought not to own one.” “What did the judge do about it?” “Kept the dog himself.” ——o Quick Cabling. The Electrical Revie’ says that the record for speed in the sending of telegrams is said to be held by the Commercial Cable Company. In September, 18H, a message was sent from Manchester, England, to Victoria, British Columbia, and the answer returned, all in ninety seconds. In October a message was dispatched from New York to London and the answer received in five seconds. Edward was behind,—Life, , Among all the structures that make up the {human body, the nerves bave been until recently the least understood. he role of the nerves in the digestion and assimilation of food is a highly important one. ‘The question whether the food sball nourish or become a mere load upon the system is a question of nerve force. Neglect to satisfy the demands made by the nervous system carries heavy penalties. When this nervous force is exhausted the digestive processes are obstructed, the body is weakened and pains of neuralgia, indigestion, rheumatism invade its parts. During repose the nerves and Ereat nerve centers feed upon the nutritive material that is stored in the blood snd Tissues. It ts when this supply of nourishment is prompt and abundant that the nervous system is able to re- cuperate, but when the system has become too ured to appropriate sufficient nourishment and the nerves too shaky to get the rest they need, that best of all blood purifiers, nerve foods and nerve regulators, Paine’s celery compound, should be given at once. Faine's celery compound has brought health, strength and freedom from nervous weakness to thousands of tired women, ‘“‘run-dow: men and sickly children. It makes them able to sh soundly, to digest their food perfectly and to win back health and strength. The tired brain and nerves are rebuilt and their wasted parts repaired during sleep, and where nervousness, irritability and inadequate nntrition of the nerve centers do WORSE THAN POVERTY. Poor Blood and Nerves Out of Order--- Take Paine’s Celery Compound. ! | not pert | lassitu) sufficient and de sleep, mieney are sure to follow. Paine’s compound guards ax: by promptly feeding the exhausted nerves and mak- ing the blood pure, abundant and nourishing. It cures neuralgia, rheumatism. dyspepsia, all forms of nervous weakness, despondency, skin diseases and affections of the heart, liver and kidneys. It sends pure, vitalized blood to every organ, and thus makes people well. Paine’s celery compound has found its way originally through prescriptions by physicians into every city and smallest village in the country! It would be very difficult to find a man or woman of mature age who has not elther been helped by, this remarkable remedy or bas heard of its mare velous properties at first-band from some enthus siastle friend or relative. : Paine’s celery compound $s the only great popular remedy that physicians of every school prescribe for disorders of the blood and nerves. Says Mrs. Kate Manuel, 216% 3d ave., Minnes apolis, whose picture is above: “I bave been greatly benefited by Patne’s celery, compound. I have taken six bottles of the wonder- ful remedy, and recommend it to all who are af- flicted as I was. For years I have suffered from | indigestion, and Know not how to give due thanks for the relief that I have received while taking Paine's celery compound. My son-in-law bas taken two bottles for a similar trouble and it has made | him well.” LON BISHOP OF VERMONT. He Sells Hair From His Head and Gum From the Trees. From the Springfield Republican. “Lon” Bishop is a singularly fortunate man. He has an assured annual income for merely sitting around and letting him- self grow. When he was but a young man he began to let his hair grow winters to keep his ears warm in the woods. Observe the result. After several years of letting himself grow thus he discovered there was a demand for himself. Young women, who “didn't know what was the matter with tkeir hair,” single women of advancing years, who had reached the sad moulting period of Hfe, elderly married women, whose husbands considerately cheered their way in the sacred family circle by telling them they were getting immodestly bald— all these sought clandestine rendezvous with Alonzo, and whispered their vague, hidden wants into his willing ear. He soon found in this way a select line of personal customers for his product—and no questions asked. And now for years veiled women beve come up to his mountain home trroughout the year and bought off the fleece. They know what they are getting. So every July Alonzo goes down to some town at the foot of the mountain for his annual hair harvest, and comes beck again shorn, with a little newspaper bundle. It is a beautiful crop, thick, and soft, and black, and fully a foot in length, all twisted up into heavy natural curls. One year, he says, he got as much as $45 for his hair, and $45 is a good slice of the year's ex- penses in Searsburg. “Lon” took to the woods when he was twelve years old, and has stayed in them until row he is fifty-two. In summer he wanders aroand and catches a few trout, but it 1s only in winter that the serious Lusiness of life begins, when the sticky juice of the spruce tree hardens into gum. sees Alonzo, armed with a scoop and a hatchet, a pair of snowshoes and a pair of ereepers, and provisioned with an occa- sional mountain biscuit. It doesn’t sound much, but there is a great deal packed away in one of those biscuits. You can tell that by lifting them. He finds the best gum on the exposed heights of the mountains, he says, where the big t strain and seam in the heavy wind. The juice exude: through the gaps and gathers in little am. ber nuggets along them. Bishop used to reech it by climbing up with creepers, but 1.cw he gets most of it with a scoop on the end of a long pole, whicif he pushes up un- der the lumps. He range 1 the way up the hills to Stratton mountain; he knows the place by heart, and very often is gone days at a time in the winter, sleeping on a Led of fir boughs spread under the lee of scme protecting ledge. Naturally he has cleened out the gum considerably. But the supply is good still, and the prices are much better than they used to be. When Le started out he could gather easily 500 pounds a winter, where now he can only get 100 pounds or so. But then he used to get but 12% cents a pound, where now he gets $1. He sells it in bulk to druggists and regular customers, and sometimes retails it.in little barrels, but he generally disposes of all he gets easily. The biggest day’s haul he ever had, he says, was about ten years ago. when he struck $50 worth. soo What the Poet Got. From the Indianapolis Journal. “Dear Sir: The Slantury Magazine re- grets to say that it finds inclosed poem un- suited for its columns. Poets whose menu- scripts are returned are asked not to feel that rejection is any evidence that the poems are capable of being understood, as many other reasons cause the return of works of merit.” ——+0+ The Congregation Inferred. From the Lewiston Evening Journal. ‘When the bellows gave out and the or- ganist in a Rockland church was unable to get anything but a few groans from the instrument, and the pastor remarked, “The organ has failed ug at a vital moment; let us rise and sing ‘Praise God from Whom All Blessings Flow,’” some of the people wondered just what he meant, Then it is the village maid at close of day | A TIMELY PRESENT. And It Was One Which Tom Would Surely Need Before Long. From the Detroit Free Press. Tom was a colored boy of about twenty- five in a southern town, and he was lazy and do-less, but not so much so that he did not manage to get along somehow. And Tom fell in love, for Cupid is no re- specter of color or condition, but he went up against his poverty at the first move and then he began to think of a way out. As an experiment he went into the office of the clerk who presided over the mar- riage licenses. “Colonel,” he said, “if I’se a gwinter git married would you give me a weddin’ present?” “Well, Tom,” replied the colonel, “I’m not in that business, but seeing that it is you I think I might do something. What be ag you like to have? Something use- “"Deed, boss, I doan’ want no udder kind ob truck. I only wants what I needs, hoes” “All right. Tell me what you would like and I'll see if I can stand it.” Tom hesitated and then rushed in. “I reckon, boss,” he said, “dat a mar- riage license wud do me more good d mos’ any udder present you coulé seleck. Nothing venture, nothing have, and Tom passed over the first obstacle in triumph. —_—_ + e+ —____ The “Greek Slave. From the Boston Transcript. ‘The original “Greek Slave,” the celebrated statue by Hiram Powers, is in the gallery of the Duke of Cleveland. It was never brought to America. It was finished in 1843. In 1849 a replica was brought to New York, and is now in the Corcoran gallery at Washington. A third copy was bought | by the Earl of Dudley, and a fourth, pur- | chased for $4,000 by Prince Demidoff, was afterward sold to A. T. Stewart of New York for $22,000, ——— The Vein She Was In. From Texas Siftings. Papa—“Which of your suitors do you think you will accept, Maria, Jones or Smith?” Maria—“Which would you favor, papa?’ Papa—Well, Smith has a fine vein of hu- mor.” Maria—“But Jones has a fine vein pf an- thracite coal upon his farm, papa. I think I'll take him.” Papa—“Sensible girl!” = A Boon For Every Woman And one that {t will pay ber to discover. Hair dyes make a radical change of color~ plainly perceptible—harmful—dirty. Meny of them are sticky, malodorous smears disgusting in ap- | plication—offensive to smell end sight—full of lead and other poisons. | Imperial Hair Is clean, ondorless, lasting. atom of poisonous matter, will not si and will permit the usual shampooing. No. 1—Black. 4—Chestnut. No. 2—Dark Brown, No. B—Light Chestnut No, 8—Medium Brown. No, 6—-Gold Bionde, No. 7—Drab or Blonde Cendvee. Prices, $1.50 and $3.00" IMPERIAL CHEMICAL MFG. C0. 292 ISTH AVE., NDW ¥ORK. E. P. MERTZ, Cor. 1th & F Sts. N.W. my 411.18.25 Regenerator Tt does not contain an in the scalp, nervous prostration,’ st all this”