Evening Star Newspaper, June 16, 1894, Page 18

18 THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, JUNE 16, 1894-TWENTY PAGES, FREAKS in URESS Woman as She is and Not as She Should Be. A WIDE CHOICE IN THE STYLE OF HATS The Princess of Wales Made and Keeps Capotes Fashionabl SUITABLE FOR LITTLE GIRLS Written Exclusivety for The Evening Star. any relation between fact and effect? It is Positively painful, in these days of home- made dressmaking, to note the purblind stupidity of women who make their own gowns. It is pain- ful because it is unnecessary and « waste of raw mate fial There are always trials ahead of the amateur In any art, but it looks to me as though there were more in the path of the average amateur dressmaker than she fs aware of. The thing that moved me to | opie aclonsth rancpreenthep oc ee Saw on a woman on the avenue the other day. She was fat, to begin with, and she ‘was laced, to continue, and she was over- @ressed in the worst fitting gown that I rer saw come from the hands of a min Gressmaker, as I happen to know that gown @id come, to end with. That was not ama- teur dressmaking? No, but I am coming to that. The fact that the woman was fat, and Jaced till her fat all went to her stomach, ‘was what made her dress look so perfectly Fidiculous. It was at least four inches phorter right in front than anywhere else, and it sagged just about that much in the The Gainsborough. back, till she looked as though she was built bn a sliding scale—her dress slid up in front and down in the back! The fault was in the way the man modiste had cut the dress. has certain rules for cutting his customers’ garments, and they seem to be cast tron and immovable. He butlds a dress for his slen- Ger, willowy customer and for his dropsical @owager on exactly the same plans, and if either is fitted it is not his fault. The per- feet woman should be of exactly such a size, und if she isn’t it {s nature, and not him- self, who “is out of plumb.” The dropsical @owager might have had allowance made for her abnormal torso, and the willowy bean pole, with a waist that defied Venus Bs to length and circumference, causing a ®ap like a mountain pass between bodice end skirt every time she raised her arms, should have excited his ingenuity to dis- ©over some way to bridge over the diffi- eulty; but instead, he shrugged his shoul- Gers and remarked that a woman who set {t defiance all the rules of scientific meas- firement could not expect to be gowned well. The stumbling block to women is “scien- tific” measurement. About one woman in five hundred is “scientifically” built. She os have the bust and waist size, and have Ips and stomach all out of proportion to @ rest of her. She may be fairly well pro- ortioned, yet have an abnormaily long Theater Bonnet. Waist, or a ridiculously short one. The pat- ferns that flood the market are a very nice {rvention, there is no doubt, but they were ftever meant for the multitude; yet the mul- titude uses them, and behold the carica fures! Get the Pattern Right. The proper thing for the woman to do who is bent on making her own dresses is | fo select the style she likes, then go to some reputable cutter, have her measure taken, and the pattern cut to exactly fit her. It will cost a little more, but the ex- tra satisfaction is worth a great deal. A Gress that fits one is a comfort just as Jong as it hangs together. A dress that @oes not fit is a torment from start to finish. The very first mistake that is made im cutting out a dress is in not making the skirt hang properly. If a woman has a large abdomen, and, owing to cheap corsets ent of them, nine-tenths of ve, there should be particu- paid to the front breadth. In ace, take the tape measure and allow an inch for seams be- er whether dress skirts are ot, if you don’t want the eaven to unite in making put enough darts in the breadth to make it swing of your person. If you are ex- it will take four short darts the sides. ngth as you did find if you have at least two han you are in ful way that nd what I say; make hat dress skirt shorter in the back if you want it to hang all around. If you cut if the san sth as the pattern for “scientifically” built people directs, you will spoil set of the skirt. After you | have got your skirt on the belt, sew a big hook on the inside of the belt exactly in the middie of the back, and hook tt in your eorset lace at the belt line, and you will| find that the skirt will not sag. If you wear a waist like the skirt, have an inside belt to the bodice, with an eye on that to book the skirt to. If you are very stout have @ narrow ruffle, folds or something of that kind on the foot of your skirt; it will take away from the effect of your stoutness by keeping your skirt from appearing to draw {m at the bottom, so that you are smaller at the feet than you are at the hips. Do not st on having your dress “long waisted.” [ pm enough, it should certainly be, but the fminute fill wrinkle scandalously. you bring it longer than proper it Make it longer at tho elt me in front | en make the front breadth | h hip. Be sure that the sides | ver the hips—the darts will er, and see that the skirt than behind. That sounds funny, of course. But take a hand glass and stand before ur mirror sidewise. Note the effect of jetting your waist run down longer in the than it does in front; it makes you larger in front than you really are and P in the back more than you really do. Then try putting a small pad in the back of your dress skirt to fill up the hollow ex- at the waist line, and you will see Toque With Strings. why a waist too long in the back is bad. It will profit you some, too, if you will take @ glance at the bottom of your skirts, first in front and then sidewise, to ascertain for you! how t! hang. It is such e small matter to adjust the patterns properly if you only will, and the effect is so improving that I am unable to understand why so few women try it. The Question of Hats. There was a time when a woman could have two hats and be happy for a whole! season. One was a “dress” hat, and one for “common.” Now it comes very near taking a hat for each gown; the beauty of this fashion is that there is not nearly go much incongruity between hats and gowns as there used to be. It really does not cost so much more than it used to, for mil- lirery is much cheaper than it was a few years ago, and women are more skillful at | Macufacturing their own hats and bon- nets. You can scarcely make a mistake in the fashion of a hat, if it happen to suit your particular style of face. Some women | Pay too little attention to this, but on the | whole most of them manage to give a dent | here and a twist there, till the hat looks as | though it had been designed in the begin- | Ming for that particular person. | | As for the style and size, you can select anything from a jet button to the straw | matting of a tea box, and if you get enough | bows of ribbon on it, and do not skimp | them in size, your hat will be in fashion. A favorite design just now is a modified Gainsborough. It turns up on one side and down on the other. It has stiff straight bows of ribbon, some flowers, and not in- frequently, a feather or two on it. its pretti: or som2 other flower that lies around under the edge of the crown next the hair. It is a charming fashion, and one that has taken like wild fire; but, oh, the pity of it. It is simply lovely to see little pink roses | snuggling down in the rings of curly hair | on a pretty girl's head, and one really likes | to see a flower caressing gray hair, if the | hair is soft and fluffy and looks clean; but bless you, everybody wears flowers around inside the brim now, and to see the fresh dainty beauties in contact with straight stringy locks, that are strained back from leathery faces, is enough to make one fore- swear flowers forever. Perhaps it is the “one good custom that might corrupt the world,” hence is vulgarized to slight us gently away from it. An Outing and Theater Bonnet. If you have a very handsome piece of ribbon, big enough to make a bow that will reach clear across your head, make it, stick a spray of jet or a bunch of flowers in it, and twist a bit of velvet from it to the knot on the back of your head and you will have a theater bonnet, or you can call No Strings on It. it a “dress” bonnet !f you like, which you can wear to the club hunt, or the coaching | trip, or out to the base ball game, and it | will be the “proper caper,” but it will look | ridiculous all the same. If you are sen- | sible, you will wear the big hat on the out- ing and the little bonnet to the theater. A great many years ago the Princess of Wales settled down to wearing a small bon- net, called a capote. Ever since then ca- potes have been fashionable. Sometimes they set closely, sometimes they flare smartly in front, but always they set snug- ly to the head at the sides, and they are always called capotes. The princess no longer has a neck that looks well when bared. Like all of her family, there is a taint in the blood, and hers settled in her neck, leaving an unsightly scar; so she al- ways wears a coilar of diamonds close about her neck, or a band of black velvet, when she is in court dress, and she wears strings on her capote—always strings. She changes the style slightly, but not enough to notice, from year to year, and through her judicious management of the strings people do not see that the cords under her chin are painfully in evidence. It must be confessed that she has set a very good ex- ample, which elderly women would do well to follow. Strings will hide ten years of a woman’s age after forty. A capote for a young girl is simply an excuse for something to hang flowers and ribbons on, and a little jet beading and some straw, but its very daintiness ts its own excuse for being. There are no strings on it either; positively that is not meant for slang. A remarkably pretty hat for a WOMEN AND EATING Senora Sara Tells Why the Society Belle Becomes Fat. TEMPERANCE IN FOOD AND DRINK One Day's Bill of Fare for a Deli- cate Appetite. AVOID THE DAINTIES ‘Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. ARA, I'M GETTING as fat as Falstarf, and, like him, will literally ‘lard the lean earth as I walk along” this summer, if I don’t get an antidote for adi- pose tissue, What shall I do?” That was the way Laura greeted me Monday morning when I went to tee her In answer to her urgent appeal,as “she was sick and could not get out.” Laura is extremely dependent upon her frtends for her happiness, and she is a good deal of what is called a hypochondriac. I found her sitting up in bed eating, and for a wo- man who was ill, and who is always com- plaining of her digestion, her lunch seemed to have been remarkably healthy. Laura ig one of these large, lovsely-put-together girls, with big bones and all well covered; but the trouble is, that kind of a structure always runs to flesh after a few years, un- less a girl is carefully groomed all the time. She does not dare to let go of her- self for a single day. Laura's appetite is a standing joke among her friends. You will find that the people who run to flesh are always hearty eaters, and use no discrimi- nation as to what they eat, so long as it is well cooked and rich. Laura fairly gorges herself, and is always complaining of a tor- pid liver, indigestion, headache and a feel- ing of inertia. Yet she will eat, anything and everything. In fact, eating is her chief emusement, and, like all excesses, there is a penalty attached which she pays hour by hour and day by day. She is getting fut! I presume there {s more terror in that term than telling a woman she is growing cid; one may grow old gracefully, ‘but get- ting fat gracefully—my friends, it can't be done. “Come, Sara, tell me what to do,” urged Laura, shoving bick the dishes, and set- uing among the pillows. I iooked at the tray on which stood a dry coffee pot, a drained cream jug, an empty platter still hot from ham and eggs, a dish with oil left from a tomato salad, a plate with some crusts of toast, a sauce dish stained with berries, and a pie plate with some bits of cheese on it. ‘Well, Laura,” I said, “you might learn how much to eat and when not to eat too much.” Feeding vs. Dining. In her indignation she nearly strangled herself on the awful mouthful of dry toast she was munching. I think it was Byron who said, “Never call a girl pretty until you have seen her eat.” Possibly the fuct that he did not wait accounts for his vagaries in affairs of the heart. It is fact that very few girls ever think about their table mannerisms. Not manners, but mannerisins, things peculiar to the individ- ual. This friend of mine not only does not know what to eat, but she does not know how to eat it, and that is the cap sheaf of her crime, for I count it nothing short of a crime to be a glutton, and that is the plain English of it. I suppose very few people are adepts in the art of eating, for it is an art, and its acquirement must be- gin with the high chair and go with one to the end. Imuthe west, where women are few, where the amenities of polite society are never seen and men live to drink eat only to live, “let's feed our faces” is the graphic style of invitation to dine, and I have seen people “feeding” in a manner that made me think that perhaps that was a very good term, for it resembled that process more than any other. I have seen women who “feed their faces.” My friend is one of them. “You are horribly unkind,” murmured as she called the maid to remove the tray and bring her a glass of some medicated waters, warranted to cure every- thing but ill temper. “One can’t starv and what is the use of living if one can’t get any pleasure out of life? You are al ways fussing about my eating too much. “Only because you are always complain- ing about your indigestion and your in- creasing rotundity, which passed the dan- ger point long ago, as you very well know,” I replied severely. I had made up my mind that sugar-coated pills would no longer fill the bill for Laura, but that some bitterly drastic advice that would fairly take her breath away was about the size of the dose I would give her, and I ad- ministered it with an ungentle hand, undis- guised and in Mberal quantities. Laura fretted and fumed, but I had her at my mercy, since she had deliberately invited the visitation, and I didn’t leave the sub- ject till I had emptied my mind of all the ideas I had on the subject of “feedin; The Aenthetic Side of Eating. I wish girls understood better what de- lightful creatures they are when they know how to eat daintily. I do not mean that they should stint themselves, but that they should be careful about conveying food to their mouths and the proper way of disposing of it after it is in the moutl Many people try to eat and drink at t same time. The result is not agreeable, particularly if they try to talk on top of it all. Some girls chew their food with their mouths open, which is simply disgust- ing. Eating has its aesthetic side as well as its phystological and hygienic, though few seem to realize it. While Redtop was visiting us he was favored with invita- girl in her teens is made of shirred white | mousselaine de soie, with ribbon run through it, and is turned up in front to ac- | commodate a bunch of small white flowers. The outside has a simple garniture of pink | taffeta ribbon with bunches of white flow- ers brocaded on it. For little girls there is nothing prettier than the broad-brimmed flat which 1s so much worn. The garniture may be ribbon only, or it may be have feathers or long wreaths of flowers on it. Some of the leg- horns are turned up and caught in two or three places with bows of ribbon or lace, but the simpler the shape the prettier for | children. BELL BALL. | —_—__—_ Had Seen Some Trouble. From Puck. “Have I had trouble?’ asked the tall, dark man, prematurely gray. “My life for | the last three years has been-one of anx- fety and soul-sickening worry.” “Ah! one of those urfortunates to whom | Ife has been one long failure; a series of losses in love, wealth and happiness?” “Worse than that, cir; worse than that! I am the manager of a grand opera troupe that has three famous sopranos! ———— | | DELIGHTFULLY COOL AND REFRESH- | ING— Horsford’s Acid Phosphate, With ice-water and sugas tions to dine out, often by women who wished to introduce him to so f their young lady guests, but he lily de- clined. I asked him why, for I could not understand it, since he was fond of women and seemed to seek their society. Eatin’ ain’t no pretty process, ‘cordin’ to my notion,” he replied apologeticully. “Most folks kain’t eat an’ talk at once with- out slobberin’, an’ I stacks it up that I'd a heap ruther munch my fodder by myt onless I happens to round up folks that don’t hold cases on me. A very learned doctor says the “first and fundamental process of digestion is mast! cation,” and there is one of Laura's grea’ est troubles. She takes such awful mouth- fuls that she can’t chew her food properly. It is a physical impossibility to chew a large mouthful as thoroughly as a small one. Did you ever watch a “woman” gour- mand “feed?” “It ain’t no pretty process,” as Redtop affirms, but it is one that may be seen any day almost in any public eat- ing place and in far too many private houses. You have seen a chicken swallow @ grain of corn that was too large to go down easily, and remember how it gulped and stretched its neck. Well, that is the Way some women eat, and it superinduces a kind of facial gymnastics that coarsens both features and expression. If any wo- man needs to be convinced of the figure she cuts when eating, let her sit before a mir- ror while dining and go through the process of chewing and swallowing for a few mo- ments. She will then be able to see herself as others see her, and if she has about her one atom of pride she will correct her bad habits, along of We Are What We Eat. Both men and women are too much given to bolting their food. They eat too hur- riedly, and fall into such disgraceful habits, as well as bringing on indigestion, and that in turn brings on fatty degeneration. Wo- men are more given to eating hurriedly than men. Men who eat in public places strike up acquaintances and talk, which brings pauses in the filling up process. Wo- men sit like graven images, with fork in one hand and coffee or tea cup in the other, alternately plying them, till the dishes a1 swept clean; then they jump up and go off munching the last mouthful. It was somebody who knew what he was talking about who gave utterance to the following: “We grow like what we eat. Bad food depresses; good food exalts us like an inspiration. It may not be a flattering theory of morals or ethics to make them dependable upon what we eat, but you can size it up for yourself. Rich cake and pas- try, for instance, are converted into peey- ishness and sluggishness; good soups and well-cooked meats into well-directed energy and accomplishment. Welsh rarebit is apt to turn into bad dreams, followed by cold, sneering cynicism, and pate de fole gras into absolute fiendishness. After all, are we not what we eat? Our charity, benevo- lence, magnanimity, good nature, or our irri- tability and selfishness, or our censorious- néss depend almost as much upon our daily diet as‘upon our convictions or our Matural temperament.” The queen of the transmogrified kitchen, Mrs. Rorer, says: “We eat abominably,” and that ought to settle it conclusiveiy. Then she further remarks: “They eat on the economic plan, saving in food to spend in clothes and to help support some doctor,” for which profession she has small use, em- Phatically declaring that proper attention to hygienic living would about ruin the trade of the sons of Esculaptus. The Why of Food. ‘ow, Laura’s fat, I am convinced, is all owing to her own sluggish temperament, her overweening desire to tickle her pal- late with rich viands and her utter disre- |" gard of all precaution as to how she eats, ‘What she eats, when she eats and why. In taking up these subjects for consideration I should place the last one first. The “why” of eating is most important. There should be but one rule for taking food or drink— hunger and thirst. This rule should be in- flexible, unalterable, unchangeable. Short- time fasts never hurt a well person, but overipading the stomach will make a well ui feel miserable, if it does not make Three meals a day for ail but night work- ers ig ull that the human xystem requires, aud many of the greatest Mterary workers confind’ themselves to twe meals and a very light lunch: The grentext actresses, sing- ers, athletes and dancers are extremely particular about their hours of eating, and the quantity and quality of {cod and drink they take. It is necessary for them to keep in good voice and good form. Flabby fiesh would ruin the business for many of them, and impair the action of muacles, both of body and throat. When Sullivan let whisky and over-eating get the best cf him he had to give up his laurels. Sandow, the strong- cst man in the world today, is as temperate 98 achild. He says he has to be. Too much eating and drinking are the curses of the human race, he thinks. I have an idea that .t is sheer waste of time to tell society women that they eat too much, as well as that they are not al- ways dainty eaters. Yet it is certainly be- cause of grosamess of eating and inertia that they lose their youthful outlizcs at twenty-five. Just try feeding a favorite boree as a society woman stuffs herself. You will find him too badly foundered ia less than a week to serve on the F street car line even. A Pretty Solid Meal. I was out with Laura one whole day re- cently, and out of curiosity I ‘kept cases” en he Redtop would put it. 1t was lu o'clock when I called for her, and she was orly just up. She had been out ut a “petite | supper” late the night before, and, being steepy, had taken her coffee and a roll in bed—an abominable habit for a well woman to indulge in. We had been out about half an hour, when she got faint—society women never get hungry, they simply get faint— so we Went to a restaurant for her to get seme breakfast. She took a dish of berries, cracked wheat, codfish and cream, broiiea chops, an omelet, French fried potatoes, hot rolls, rice cakes and coffee. And she ate it all! By the time she got through she was grumbling at dressmakers who fit gowns “skin tight,” and declared that she fe! perfectly stupid. We met in one of the thops two lady friends and joined them in a “drink” of hot chocolate. That was at 11 o'el Then, as we were to discuss wi dow draperies and would be sitting, soin body got a box of candy to sweeten o tem: as we talked. At 12 o'clock Laura was “ready to drop” with the heat, and we paid @ visit to the ice cream soda counter. At 1:80 she declared that she was famished, so ef we went to lunch. Laura took a chicken salad, wafers, strawberries and ice cream, and finished up with a cup of biack coffee! Then she deciared herself unable to proceed until she had rested, so we went tu the parlor and ate candy for half an hour to help digestion along. About half past 2 we started on a round of calls. We met @ party of friends at the door of the shop, and a “treat” of orange phosphate was the result of the encounter. We made five calls. Laura drank five cups of tea, und ate two wafers, two pieces of cake and three maccaroons. At 5 o'clock we picked up Laura’s father, who was heated from an argument in a law suit, and wanted to cool his throat. We had an ice cream soda. For dinner—but it is perfectly useless to describe the dinner. Laura was as im- partial in partaking of the savory viands as though she had fasted since morning. She reminded me of the girl in the song who re- marked to her escort that she did not care for much, as she had dined, and then ate— “A dish of raw, a plate of slaw, A soft-shell crab on toast, A tomato mayonnaise, veal and mush- rooms, braised, Some chicken and a roast—” with all the condiments and concomi- tants and four more lines of dessert. Of course, Laura had to rest after dinner, and then she went to the opera, with a litile supper thrown in at the end for good measure. Why Fat Accumalates. Now, this is no fairy tale, but the actual eating routine of one society girl for en average day! And since Laura was joined by ladies of her acquaintance each ume she indulged in eating or drinking it 1s fair to suppose timat she has pienty of good com- pany, and that this manner of “feeding” is common. In fact, I know it is. Now, how long do you suppose Bernhardt or Ter- ty or Patti would stand up under sucn a regimen as that? Do you think for a mo- ment the women who, till past seventy, charmed the world with their mental and physical endowments stuffed themselves as one stuffs a goose till its liver spoils? Of course, Laura had to have the doctor that night after the theater part; he had a@ “severe attack of heart failure,” so the bulletins said, but I knew better. The doc- tor looked wise and said she had been over- exerting herself and needed rest. He told her the truth, but not all of it. It was her liver that was over-exerted and her jaws that needed the rest. Mrs. Rorer, who has given this subject the benefit of deep study, has summed the mat- ter up about as I have. In the matter of correct diet, individual cases have individual needs and require special consideration. But for general consideration women may be divided into three classes. Those who are called ladies of leisure and who are not required to earn a living, those who depend on manual labor for a living and brain workers. To the first class belong society women, like Laura, who require less food than any other. They accumulate fat very rapidly, due in general to lack of proper exercise. Riding, shopping and dancing are not enough. Very few women in any walk of life take exercise enough. Women of leigure who take little exercise should eat very sparingly of starchy foods or oils and no sweets at all. Sugar fattens more quickly than anything else. They should eat g.een vegetables growing above the und. Green salads are excellent, but they should be dressed with vinegar and oil. In| meats only the “white” order should be eaten. They must not eat beef or game. A great deal of fruit is a neces- sity. white bread should be eaten un- less it {8 toasted or the crust. In the mat- ter of drinking, stimulants should be avold- ed, though there are a few light wines that may be partaken of at rare intervals, Now, how many women are willing to deny them- selves all the dainties to which they have accustomed themselves for the sake of good health and youthful vigor of form and figure? It is certainly worth the strug- gle, which will not be easy, and will not accomplish the reduction required in a short time, either. If a few simple rules are adhered to, however, and it does not involve starvation at all, the result will surely be accomplished. The Stomach the Cause. If brain workers would consider their food a little more there would be fewer cases of nervous prostration, Mrs. Rorer thinks, and this is undoubtedly true. There is seldom a case of nervous prostration in which stom- ach derangement is not the first trouble noticed. It is said that brain workers should eat red meats, but little starchy food, and plenty of green vegetal salads— green, of course—and fruit. It would be hard to find a condition in life in which frult was not considered beneficial. No Mquors should be indulged in by a brain worker, or stimulants of any kind if it can possibly be avoided. The same may be said of narcotics. Some people with very active brains find coffee extremely deleterious, and tea is bad for te no matter whom, because it dries up the blood. Brainworkers | may eat eggs in any form, except cooked a An egg beaten in a glass of milk, or | hot bouillon, is very nutritious, and can be | taken without much tax on the digestive ywers, which are often sore! wi he system is worn out with mental labor. Those who labor in a physical way may eat almost anything in moderation. They | require more meat, more fatty substances, and can eat more sweet things. Pork and veal are bad for anybody. Manual laborers should eat a great deal of fruit, as should everybody. The value of fresh fruits and nuts is hardly appreciated. Now, I am pre- , pared to be called an old crank, as I know I | will be, but I would like to have some one who has religiously followed the instruc- tions that I have given report progress in {about six months. It will prove a success, for I have seen it tried, iORA SARA, WOMEN WHOARE TIDY |==="** = * The Indefinable Something Which Characterizes the Dainty. NEARLY ALWAYS AN” ACQUIREMENT Personal Charms That Can Be Set Off With Effective Costumes. IDEAS FOR MAKING THEM Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE 18 NOT BORN, but made—that most y eharming womafi who mey not have the grace of & dancing nymph, or the color of a picture of spring idealized—but «who is sweet with cleanliness men who do not im- press the observer as she does, women who look unkempt when they have tumbled out of bed and bunched up their hair, women who are nothing less than untidy when the wind has done itg work with their hair and the dust with thelr com- plexions, attribute to the dainty, woman an inborn daintiness. “She always looks fresh,” they say, “whether she’s been sleep- ing six hours in an upper berth or nine hours in her own well-aired foom. It’ gift, lke a sweet voice or an artistic eye. But they are all wrong; it is an acquire- ment. The dainty woman is wholesome, sweet and charming cn the trying occasions like shipwrecks and preserving days, be- cause on ordinary occasions she has ac- quired the habit. She always has the pleas- ant consciousness of neatly mended stock- ings, of fresh, whole linen, of buttons where buttons shou'd be, and bindings that really bind to cheer and sustain her. She brushes her hair religiously every night—not spas- modically for a week or two—and so it ac- Quires a glossiness and a smoothness that one night in a sleeping car cannot destroy. Her hot bath is a regular affair, dating back years to its beginning, and consequent- ly her complexion preserves its freshness during @ two days’ journey, when hot water ig not to be obtained. Her clothes always lie in sweet-smelling sachets, so that the faint, elusive fragrance, which seems part of her personality, can no more be missing when she appears in a dressing gown and slippers to watch her house burn down than when she comes out robed for @ reception. In many women this habit of daintiness \s fixed by early education; but there is no one, even the most hopelessly untidy, who may not acquire it if she will but be per- severing in all her toilet operations and all her mending. It is the brief two days’ vacas ton in each week which makes the differ- ence between the perfection of daintiness and a sort of apologetic untidiness. Without wishing to be too severe upon those unfortunate single women “who have not time” or “have too many other things to think of” to attend to their own welfare or appearance, I would like to say that no man, not even the most insipid apology of masculinity tha: ever aped tne manners of British swelidom, ever asked a Woman to marry him whom he did not thoroughly be- eve to be sweet, dainty and womahly, from the perky little bows on her hat to the tips of her trim little boots. If, on the other hand, the untidy woman be already mar- ried, let respect for her husband and chil- dren, if not for herself, act as the con- vincing argument. When the qualities I have spoken of have been cultivated, then, dear little woman, show them to the very best advantage by donning some of these pretty gowns. Of course, you are going away for the summer ee vats eee So*we will take that up rst. Appropriate for Traveling. ‘There is nothing in the world that makes one look more “‘shabbily genteel" than an elaborate traveling gown with bows, ruffles or lace to catch and hold every fying dust speck; and it is quite as bad, perhaps a lit- tle bit worse, to appear before one’s fellow- travelers in a dress “too old for a but to wear on the cars.” If you not possess a dress suitable for your summer trip, get an inexpensive hop sacking or serge and make it up after the pretty pat- tern shown in the first illustration. The original model: was ina light-weight homespun, in color a what old-fashioned but always pretty aAlt- and-pepper combination. The only trim- ming was the triple rows of narrow black hercules braid. Although the bodice has the stylish seamless blouse effect, the waist lining must fit the figure perfectly and have & well-ftting empire belt overlaid with the Iyrover front and sides, but swing tn ful, ly over front and si ut stiff gigot pleats in the back. In BU must completely escape the floor. Pretty and Youth‘ct. Perhaps you may prefer the trim littic outfit shown in the second sketch, and it ‘© both pretty and youthful. It is stylis. made up in any of the light-weight goods, but particularly so if blue sacking be used. The peptieeey may be of any pretty color, tern the wearer may fa! if possibie. There is nothing stroys an otherwise trim occasional glimpses of a so! br white petti- So much for the “going away” outfit. Ni come the lovely silk ging! ge dimities, etc., which are so not be made into any but the most | fashions, and even then they were | perfect nightmares of horror so far fit was concerned, because so much had to be “allowed for shrinkage.” are en- tirely mow, and as care is gingham dress as on a silk In Pale Blue Swivel Silk. ‘The third ure shows a very charming ttern, one which is usually becom- ins. The material is a pale blue swivel silk gingham, with trimmings of sheer blue and white embroidery, and pale blue moire rib- bon. The SS ee a ban ee ee mit the worked edge to form a Slightly low roomg about the throat. The dress ma- terial en drawn in scant folds to the waist, where it is held by a ribbon girdle. and moderately full ruffies of Two wide embroidery fall over the great sleeve puffs, which barely reach to the elbow, are then finished by narrow ribbon bands, fas- tened on the outside of the arm by ribbon rosettes. The skirt has all the fullness gathered into a small space at the back, and is decorated with a wide foot ruffie of embroidery. India Dimity. Another pretty fashion is shown in the next illustration. The material is that most graceful of all wash goods, India dimity, in a pin-stripe of white and delicate green. The light quality of the goods for- bids very accurate fitting, so that the bod- ice is made into a full biouse, but closely confined to the figure by the deep empire belt, which, in this instance, was made of black silk, crocheted passementerie, iu @ bold and very open design. The collar, of rather coarse ecru lace, was cut into a deep square sailor at the back, and follow- ing the low opening in front was finished with square ends, as shown in the sketch. Two wide ruffies of lace fall over the sleeve puffs, which should just cover the elbow and then be finished by other and much Rarrower ruffies of lace. The skirt is made in the usual way, straight and plain in front and very full in the back. The next model shows a charming little gown for a young matron. It is made of ecrue faetta, showing a tiny pin dot of white silk. The design, although seemingly elaborate, is very simple. A narrow, deeply pointed yoke is seen in the front only; the material is drawn from this in full pleats to the waist line. The wide collar, of which only the square ends are seen in t! sketch, is round, almost like a cape in the back. The wide lace revers are then placed from the shoul@er seams, and following the tapering outline of the shapely little yoke cause it to appear like a vest. The slightly pointed girdle is made with a band of ecru lace insertion, with a ruffle of lace —s — Paco —— must be arran; in long, deep points, front and back, and be very full and short over the hips. |The sleeves are merely immense puffs, finished with ruffies of lace; the skirt is slightly gored and shows a narrow lace ER, AG i ° 3 ecru lace. The is from the black anti a ro] shoul it ta black velvet dnctt reaching i 4 side seams to the center of the front, where they are held by a of velvet. BV K HE Bs HOUSEHOLD HINTS Dainties for tho Sick Room and How to Prepare Them. PICTURES AND APPROPRIATE FRAMES tural Wood Finish for the In- terior of Houses. THE USES OF GRAPE FRUIT ‘Written Exclasively for The Evening Star. If you have schorched « shirt bosom im froning, dampen it with water and lay it im ine sun for a short time, and if you have burned the fabric the scorched spot will disappear. In providing Gainties for sick people it should be remembered that sweet things are seldom as tempting to the sick as they Would be if the person were in health. Tart sweets, such as crabapple jelly or eae are generally acceptable, but preserves or will sick: They belong to the coving” ‘ewost, As a toast—all these will be eaten who would not want to touch them if well. One prime requisite in catering to sick people is to be neat about it and serve Gaintily. The tray should be spread with an immaculate white cloth, and the cup, saucer, plate and other dishes should be of a smaller size than is vsed when one is in health. The things served should be perfectly fresh, and served in small quantity. It fairly turns a sick person's stomach it EL cal to i to get a prettily decorated meals. I it dening process after it is once only to the soft-bolled péint. turn up their patrician roses at the idea of “warmed over’ eges, but they will them even better than . When you are starting out on a journey of two or three Gays’ duration, a bottle of tea should accompany you. Tes is one of the best things in the world to put in érink- ing water to improve its taste, and counter- tea, best, or the uncolored Ji —and pour over it pearly @ quart of boill' water. Let it cu an or pour off the ter color framed in anything but white, with an edge of gold, will be cheapened. The frame may be as deep as you like. The mat should follow the general tone of the color scheme of the room in which it is hung. Etchings, which it is a pleasure to say are growing in favor, should be framed in dark gold, leaf or oak brown woods and oxidized silver. The mats should be the cclor of the etching paper, and sometimes @ real cream or ivory white mol! with touches of silver, will make a pres fae If you ‘ove your frien family photographs a: the rocm. A photograph album is all right, for if anybody wants to see it, he can seek it out, but to be obliged to sit for half an hour in utter silence while waiting for your hostess to appear, surrounded by her relatives in grim poses, and photographic is too much to ask of one’s ene- mies, to say Pothing of one’s friends. . . If you are contemplating building a house bave all the wood work in its natural grain, and do not profane it with paint or enamel. A sure sign of the advance in culture and taste made by the present generation is painted wood, for it does not re- quire so much cleaning, and no renewal of paint. The oiled wood is prettiest of all, and if any grain! is resorted to all ft should be ind in sparingly. Georgia To remove paint that has dried in « fabric put the soiled spot over a dish and the hands and rub briskly; gen- paint will come off in flakes after ) : 2 z a g | H 3 i g 5 im other than thelr native tongue, but it does not seem to occur to then that it is the thing to do. Yet it would probably save the child many weary hours of study of the girls had ever studied either lan- guage a day in their lives, except in the way mentioned. I found, however, that they could carry on a very fair conversa- tion in both languages. © ‘The grape fruit, or wild orange, which is really its proper name, has a new mission in life; it is almost a sure cure for a “cham- pagne” head or any other kind of a “round- er” head. It is to be eaten like an orange, adding sparingly of sugar. It settles the stomach and quiets the tremor of the nerves. It is said to have in smaller de- gree the qualities of quinine, and will act- ually allay inflammation and break up ma- larial disorders if taken in time. It acts directly on the liver and possesses mild purgative properties. TO MAKE THE Ham Ghow color, prevent baldness, and healthy, Hall's Hair Renewer bas proved iteli successfub NATURAL the A war invented, aad