Evening Star Newspaper, May 12, 1894, Page 17

THE EVENING STAR a PUBLISHED DAILY EXCEPT SUNDAY. AT THE STAR BUILDINGS, 1101 Peansyivania Avenue, Cor. 11th Street, by The Evening Star Newspaper Company, 8. H. KAUFFMAD Pres’t. New York Office, 49 Potter Building, se — ‘The Eveuing Star is served to subscribers in the eiey by carrinrs: om their own account, at 10 coats f Week, or 4ic. per montn. Copies at the counter cents each. By mail where im the United States or Canada—postage prepaid—6O cents per “ao 5 Quintuple Sheet Star, $1.00 per year; Sar: with foreigm postaze add<J, $3.00, (Entered at the Post Office at Washington, D. C., &s_second-class mail -natter.) ‘All mail subseriptioas must be paid fn advance, Sites of adverthaaer mandy Enown on aputrocies Part 3. ae ls Tig ening Star. Pages 17=20. WASHINGTON, D. O., SATURDAY, MAY 12, 1894-TWENTY PAGES. Sured. Want advertisements will be received up to noon of the day ©f publication, precedence being Given to those first received. IRRIGATION ON THE Y wy ANGTSE. THE YANGTSE KIANG Some of the Wonders of the Greatest River of China. THE IMMENSITY OF THE VALLEY A Vast Empire Cut Up by Canals and Diked Like Holland. CHINESE COUNTRY SCENES (Copyrighted, 1804, by Frank G. Carpenter.) Bpecial Correspondence of The Evening Star. ON BOARD A CHINESE STEAMER 600 MILES FROM THE MOUTH OF THE YANGTSE KIANG, April 1, 1804. HAVE BEEN RID- ing for days upon the great Yangtse river, and I write this letter in almost the center of the Chinese empire. Iam within less than a hundred miles of the Chicago of the ce- lestial land, the vast city of Hankow, and am passing through the country where the Chinese mobbed the foreigners a year or so ago, burning @own the houses of the missionaries, and killing some of the English officers of the Chinese customs. Last night I left Kiu- kiang, a big trading center at the mouth of the Poyang lake, and during the past two weeks I have passed a half dozen cities of the size of Cleveland or Washing- ton, and have traveled through about the game number of great states, having an aggregate population of something like one hundred and fifty millions of people. All the towns I have visited I have found packed with a throng busier than you find on lower Broadway at noonday, and I am amazed at the immensity of this great Chinese empire and its enormous popula- tion. I entered the Yangtse at its mouth, where it flows through the Chinese province or state of Kiangsu. This is in the center of the east coast, and it has an area about as big as that of Pennsylvania. It contains more than half as many people as the whole United States, and its population is equal to that of the British Isles. The state of Ganhul, which I next entered, is no bigger than Kansas, but it supports twenty-seven million people, and the state of Hupeh, in which I am now traveling, has over twenty million. This great river itself has millions who are born, live and die upon its waters, and at every landing I see a thicket’ of poles, each of which springs from the home of one of the millions of families which make up China's boat population. I am amazed at the wonderful resources of the country. My eyes bulge out at the muscles and in- dustry of its people, and my head buzzes im trying to understand the curious sights which are crowded upon me. Customs Station om the Frontier. great rivers are among the won- Gers of the world, and the Yangtse Kiang fs the king of its kind. It has a great volume of water than the Nile or the Am: gon, and it has built up a greater country than Egypt along the low lands of China. In approaching {t from the ocean I found the waters discolored by its muddy fluid many miles out at sea, and it turns the salty brine yellow for sixty miles from its mouth. Here it is about as thick soup. You draw pp a bucket and in a mo- ment its bottom Will have a thick sediment of mud. I had been warned not to use the spigot which runs from the bottom of the boat into my bath, but this morning the boy had m barrel of filtered water in the tub with pout lon from the Yangtse. I thouzht the amount was so little that {t could not a8 pea aifect the re The result was that the clear water became the color of mud and my bare foot an impression on the bot- tom as marked as that of the savage which so scared Robinson Crusoe on the desert island. It is a sort of a gritty silt, but I am told that thi no river on eart diment more fertile. great plain of north and been made by it. This which brings ¢ The whol tral Chi lain is seven hundred miles long, and it Bupports e than a hundred million of people. The Yellow river runs through it @ hundred miles north of this point, and nation with the Yangtse, undations ef one-fourth of | e empire. lay i dirt they is estimated carry down of Thibet and of China ery two months in the sea and at I sailed by the is thirty-two from the highlan: is so great that an island a mouth n ad. lt has hundred years or s Ss and villages and sup- ports more than Ni ple. The sea at the me f the Yangtse is Miled with ttle islands, many of which havg grown up le it too hot and I tried to cvol | within the memory of men now living, and along the low banks of the river I can see the strata of soil which it has broight down from year to year. At some points these lines of sediment are from one to two feet thick, and they are of as marxed colors as strata of rock. The river has a vast volume of water. A line of freight water-tight cars reaching from New York to Chicago and carrying twenty tons each could not hold its one day’s discharge into the sea, and its rise and fall at the city of Hankow, about six hundred and fifty miles from {ts mouth, ranges during the year from forty to fifty feet. Within the past ten days the river has risen thirteen feet mage 4 is now going up at the rate of a foot a day. The Diken. The rise in the Yangste Kiang is so great that embankments have to be built along its course for more than 1,000 miles. All of the country I have passed through is diked, and this, not only as to the river, but also as to every creek and canal con- nected with it. Central China is more cut up by waterways than Holland, and there are more dikes here to the square mile than you will find in the Netherlands. Sailing along the Yangste you see these dikes in every direction. They are about twenty feet high and from thirty to forty feet wide at the base and their tops form the offs from the main bed of the river, which at high water materially shorten the course. It is as full of modern steamers as the Mississippi, and has in addition the thousands of odd boats and junks of the Chinese. I could fill this paper with the mention of the different kinds of craft and their loads, and among the ships there are many which would be a surprise to Ameri can readers. There are Chinese life boats, for instance, everywhere. They are low junks with oars and sai!s, and they watch the river during the storms and pick up such sampans and fishing boats as are over- turned. They are under the control of the districts through which they go and form a sort of a river police. Now and then they capture a smuggler or a pirate, and here and there outside of some of the villages I saw boats which had been cut in half and set up on end. I usked what they were, and I was told that they had belonged to pirates and thieves. The culprits had been caught and beheaded, and their boats were thus put up as warnings to their brothers to beware of the law. Such boats are usually put up at the places at which the crimes were committed. Everywhere you meet with native and government officials. The different pro- vinces have their customs officers, and they levy a heavy tax on all the native boats, each official gets his squeeze, and the taxa- tion is terribly heavy. The customs col- lected for the general government are in the hands of foreigners, for the emperor cannot rely upon the honesty of his own officials, and so an Irishman, Sir Robert Hart, collects his duties for him, and his boats and officials are at all of the leading ports. You see their customs officers scat- tered all along the banks of the river, and at high water they sometimes use the little huts of bamboo, which are brought down in the rafts from the upper Yangtse. This valley of the Yangtse Kiang is a vast garden. All along its course the grass is as green as Egypt in winter, and two or three crops a year are everywhere grown. A Well-Watered Land. roads and paths of the country. Along|In looking over the landscape you see no them you see all sorts of Chinese charac- ters trudging along, their figures silhouetted | made of thatched huts, with walls of p against the blue sky. Here goes the great freight car of China. It is a wheelbarrow and a native coolie pushes it. Behind him comes another species of the same, a man carrying two great loads fastened to the ends of the bow-like pole which rests upon his shoulders. Next you see a brightly dressed girl, wearing red pantaloons and a blue sack, carrying a parasol of paper and looking very gay as she hobbles vp the bank. You note mandarins riding in blue chairs carried between two bare-legged coolies, who trot along in front and behind, and among the nobles, the common people | f these clumps, and r on foot. Irrigating on the Yangtse. Here and'there you may see a sheep or a hog, but the horses are comparatively few, and the only cattle are the half hog half cow known as the water buffalo. You see these working in the fields pulling rude ploughs or turning the wooden water wheels, which are used in some parts of China for irrigation. They are for all the world like the Sakiyehs of Egpyt, and there are many things about you which remind you of the land of the Pharaohs. You see no cattle or horses dragging but dens upon the embankments, and the ca- nals and rivers, in fact, roads In all this part of China, it is said, you can go to every man’s house in a boat. There are numerous creeks that empty into the Yangste. The mouths of filled with junks, and on them and the canals, which cut up the land like a net, you see the masts and sails of boats walk- take the place of | of you have ever realized that it existe these are/| state of Ganhul, which has a fences or barns. The people live in villas ed reeds, which they plaster inside and out with mud. Sometimes the huts stand alone in the town, and at other times they are Joined together in blocks. The best of them are not more than twenty feet square, anc the average farm house has only one story. The earth forms the floor. You could, I venture, build a good one for $. The houses stand flush with the slimy mud side- walk, and the filthier and dirtier this is, the better it seems to please the people. Each village has a clump of trees about it, and in looking over the valley you see hundreds ize the force of the statement that the whole empire is one vast village. Many of the villages, 1 am told, consist of only one family or clan, and the Chinese are sald to take better care of their relatives and to work together better than any people of the world, The best of the towns here are close to the river, and we have passed many walled cities, with pagcdas and temples rising above the other ridge-shaped roofs. At some of the bigger centers this ship stops to take on and discharge cargo, and I have gone through a number of cities since I came to China the names of which I had never heard. Take the city of Nganking—not Nanking, the old capital of China, you have all read of that—but Nganking. How many Weil, we have just left it. It ts a city of about a half million people and is bigger thart St. Louis. It is the capital of the of | more than one-third of the States, though it is not a the state of New York. It lies right on the banks of A YANGTSE FARM YARD. ing, as it were, rapidly over the green fields. Often there will be several lines of these boats running parallel with the river, their white sails growing smaller in the distance, until they form white specks upon the dim line of the horizon. The cost of making and keeping up this series of embankments must be enormous. The Yangste changes its course every now and then; it cuts away the soil and new dikes have to be built. there are several rows of earth, one behind the other, and the remains of discarded embankments are everywhere visible. In the summer the river rises and floods everything not so diked. Houses are often swept away, villages are destroyed and the land becomes a great inland sea. All along the course are the vestiges of past floods, and here and there you see grave- yards that the river has eaten into, and you note the gaping holes left by the cof- fins. At one point, about 100 miles from where I now am, I saw a coffin extend- ing half way out of the bank. It undoubt- edly contained a skeleton, and the wood rotten with age. The water was then within a foot of it, and by this time it must have been washed out to sea. Here and there we could see men irrigating the soil by tread-mill pumps, worked by half- naked celestials, and everywhere man seemed to be waging a brave fight with nature and getting the best of it. The Yangtse today is one of the greatest trade routes of the world. China Is said to have more boats on her waters than there are in all the rest of the world combined. She is the best watered country in God's green earth and has more wonderful water- ways. Suppose you could stretch a river wider than the Mississippi in an almost straight line from New York to Chicago. Suppose it to be navigable for the biggest ocean steamers for that distance from May ctober, and let ships from Russia, Ger- England and other parts of the sail through it and load at its This would be about what can done on the Yangtse Kiang below If you wish to carry out the com- world wharves, be Ichang. parison, however, you must let the great river extend further west. If you could stretch it on in a straight line it would go to Denver, and still be navigable for large boats and barges. You must push it on further west to San Francisco, and you are still five hundred miles from its source. It is said to be three thousand five hundred miles long, and It has its rise in the moun- tains of Thibet and has tributaries all along its course. It taps two great lakes, which give it canal communication with other provinces, and the most of the tea of the world comes from the lands south of it and | is shipped across the Poyang lake, near | where I now am, and sent to Hankow for sale. At the Mouth of the River. In coming into the Yangtse its mouth is so wide that it is hours after you see the muddy color of its waters before you can distinguish the banks, and for the first fifty miles of our journey we passed through what seemed to be a great inland sea,rang- ing from twenty to fifty miles in width. Our first hills were passed about fifty miles inland. Seven hundred miles from the coast I found its width to be more than a mile, and it holds that width nearly all the way from Shanghai to Ichang, a distance of about one thousand miles. It contains many long, narrow islands, and it now and then branches out into different streams or cut- In many places | the Yangtse, about 150 miles above Nanking, and it has miles of walls about it. These walls are twenty-five feet high and so wide | that you could drive a bugsy around the | city on the top of them. Nganking is well | built and rich now, though it was nearly ruined during the Taiping rebellion, back in the fifties. At that time the rebels held it under siege, and food became so scarce that human flesh was used, and, it is said, was sold in market places for its weight in sil- ver. The city has now a great native trade, | though it is not one of the treaty ports, and | foreign steamers cannot stop at it. It has Chinese Police Bont. one of the finest pagodas on the Yangtse, as shown on the initial illustration. It is a seven-storied tower of rose pick, | rising, as it were, right from the banks of | the river, to a height, I judge, about half | that of the Washington monument. It is | many-sided and its top is decorated with a beautiful cap of bronze, which is built in rings, like those of some of the temples in Siam, to a point. This tower was being re- paired when I visited it and a framework of pole scaffolding extended from {ts base up- | ward to a height of more than one hundred feet. Upon this hundreds of Chinese masons and painters were working, and awa on the sixth story I could note little fly-like celestials clinging to the wall and patching up the ravages of the weather. I was glad | to see it, for it showed me that there js at least one place in China where the monu- ments of the past are respected, and where both the religion and the temples have not gone to seed. Fomk Ay, Cartentes ——__ How He Lost Her. From Puck. Tenderly but firmly disengaging himself from her clinging embrace, he looked stead- fastly into her swimming eyes. And yet he doubted. “Do you swear?” he asked. ym the instant her demeanor changed. fone of your business!” she abruptly replied. When he had gone, she sat, numb with jis HONOLULU AGOG Over the Motive for Sending Ad- miral Walker to That Point, FUTURE IMPORTANCE OF PEARL HARBOR ! The Pest of Destructive Insects and the Remedy Sought. LOCAL POLITICAL TALK eS Spectal Correspondence of The Evening Star, HONOLULU, April 14, 1804. DMIRAL WALKER arrived here on the izth, per steamer Mariposa. This morn- ing he relieved Ad- miral Irwin,and rais- ed his own flag on the Philadelphia. The usual salutes were fired. Admiral Walk- er’s coming was an- nounced two days earlier, by sailing vessel, or it would have been a surprise. Of course it has caused great speculation. We have the various Washington reports to help us guess what special errand the famous admiral must be intrusted with. It seems evident that so very prominent an officer would not have been selected, and Kirkland recalled, unless some ser- vice of great moment, and perhaps peculiar delicacy, was required. We have scarcely been awake to the fact of any special emergency having arisen here, or of any new necessity requiring extraordinary management. Very probably your admin- istration has gained important light from some source upon Pacific matters which we have not. If as alleged, and not improbable, Admiral Walker's special errand relates to Pearl harbor, Americans in Hawaii will generally be glad to see him take as active steps as possible toward occupying that much neg- lected concession to the United States, now remaining unoccupied for nearly eighteen years since first ceded by our treaty of reciprocity. The doctrine has always been held here, and was confirmed by Secretary Bayard, that the concession was not perma- nent, but conterminous with the treaty, and would expire whenever the treaty expired. If the United States now begins to take possession there and to expend money, while the treaty has yet at the very least a year and a half to run, we have no right to object, and we have no objection. We are lelighted to see the administration show so enlightened a sense of the great importance of its growing commercial and naval in- terests in the Pacific. If they think ft necessary to reinforce the gallant admiral with one or a half a dozen more of the steel cruisers we can make room for them inside our snug little harbor. We shall wel- come them with delight as an earnest of America’s intention to hold Hawaii close and fast to herself. Some of the Interesting Conjectures. We have had so much confidence in that intention speedily prevailing that we have ot felt seriously alarmed at certain strong indications of a grasping interest in Hawaii on the part of both England and Japan. It Jhas seemed certain that neither cf those nations would venture to let any Interest of that sort materialize into open action, in the face of an expressed policy in opposi- tion on the part of our powerful and im- perial American neighbor. Possibly United ates policy nas not been sufficiently ex- pressed, or perhaps the Presiieat’s action last December was misinterpreted as show- ing indifference to American influence in Hawati. In any case, this mission of Ad- miral Walker will tend to dispel doubts upon that subject. We shall look for in- teresting developments in a few days. Word has already gone on that Admiral Irwin's tests, made on Pearl Harbor lar, in- dicate that the obstruction consists wholly of soft material, sand and mud, and not of coral rock, as had been supposed. If this so, the cost of removal will be compara- tively small. An obstruction of similar ma- terial at the entrance of Honolulu harbor was easily removed by a suction dredge cver a year ago. Two years’ work of a couple of such machines ought to completely open Pearl harbor, with an entrance pass- age 500 feet wide and 30 feet deep, as planned. This bar is about a mile out- side of the shore, where is a barrier reef. Inside of this the water is deep clear into the river channel and the interior lochs or lagoons, The lower two miles of river channel are perfectly commanded by the point of a |peninsula in the fork of the east and west branches. Guns there will rake the whole | passage, ‘and a search light at the same point will reveal everything stealing in by night. Perfect defenses will be made with the utmost facility. The naval vessels will naturally be berthed farther up the harbor. Coai yards and docks will be arranged as desired, either on the central peninsula or upon Ford's Island, which contains 300 acres. ‘There are about 1,500 acres of deep water anchorage. A Commercial Future. After the Nicaragua canal is opened and the Atlantic steam fleet begins to stream across the Pacific to the ports of China and Japan Honolulu or Pearl harbor will be their only possible coaling station in mid- ocean. The amount of traffic is estimated to average thirty steamers a month, count- ing each way. Nearly as many colliers will be needed to supply them. Honolulu harbor has no capacity for one-quarter of that business, which will, of necessity, go six miles below to Pearl harbor. Thus, in the very near future, an immense revolution in our commercial affairs is to be looked for. We have no doubt that the United States will be fully awake to these contingencies and to their necessity of holding complete control of the situation. The coming trans- Pacific commerce via Nicaragua must be at first mainly in British han There will, therefore, be an inevitable tendency on the part of Great Britain to secure the posses- sion of these islands, which will form the central haven for that commerce. Such a result can only be prevented by a prompt and decided assertion by the United States of their superior claim and by an active oc- cupancy of the position. We welcome the presence of Admiral Walker as indicating a clear intention of the United States to as- sert and maintain their rights in Hawail as America’s great outpost for her control of the North Pacific. Whatever the admiral’s instructions may be, or whatever steps he may first take, we feel assured that all will of mine has two which are sixty feet high! and cover each eighty feet square, with massive boles four feet thick, yet only twenty-five years old. These fine trees here and there suddenly began to wither in foli- age and the twigs to be covered with the little white cushions of the lice, Whole rows of trees were seen with all but the larger limbs lopped off and burned, in hope of stay- ing the plague, but without effect. Koebele was written to for help. He was known to have had magical success in saving the orange and lemon orchards of Californi from this same enemy. Koebele sent us down some little boxes with a few dozen very small ladybugs with scarlet dots, called vedalla cardinali: These were placed on the branches among their favorite food, the cottony cushion lice. They fell to at once, multiplied themselves enormously, and, with their larvae, in six weeks had cleared the city completely of the enemy. Hawali has unlimited faith in Prof. Koebele. But this particular lagy bug will eat only that particular Jouse. Our fruit trees are badly infested with several other kinds. So the government has hired Koebele for five years to fight these virulent little ene- mies, on the principle that every insect has other insects to kill them, and Koebele is the man to find out which. He has made a preliminary exploration of the country, with the result of finding thirty species of aphis and coccus, which infest our plants. The most prevalent one he calls Pulvinaris psidi. All over the islands the stems and foliage of guava and other trees and bushes are covered with the black exuda- tions of this louse, which greatly impairs the fruitfulness of many trees, especially the fig. Prof. Koebele considers the most danger- ous pests of this class a Rhizo coccus,which came here two years ago, and so far is con- fined to the island of Oahu. These various lice and other insects infest and damage especially our coffee, cotton, sugar cane and bananas. The coffee suffers the worst, especially if unshaded. Koebele has al- ready got six kinds of lady bugs at work and two kinds of moths. He will soon start in search of more combatants. Australia will be his great field of exploration, whence he will send the desired insects as fasi as obtained. He will also search for them in Java and other East Indla islands, whence probably many of the lice were originally imported, without bringing along their ap- propriate insect antidotes. Hawaii seems originally to have had few insect pests. An ancient kind, which used to be very disheartening to white farmers, was a small caterpillar, armies of which would come out with the winter rains, and eat up clean every crop of wheat, oats or corn which got a promising start. This more than any other cause has discouraged the raising here of hay, an article imported in immense quantities from California. For the last few years very little is seen of those destructive black armies of caterpil- lars, covering the ground. The remedy for them was found in the introduction from Java of the mynah bird, as well as of lin- nets, all of which have multiplied through- out the country, and have devoured the miilers before they have laid their eggs, which hatch into caterpillars. On the whole we are not more, perhaps less, afflicted than other countries with in- sect enemies to agriculture. Locusts and the grasshoppers of your western plains have not yet made their way here. To read the testimony of some of Mr. Blount’s wit- nesses, {t would appear that the worst pest of all which has afflicted Hawaii is the “missionaries,"" who have devoured the sub- stance of the poor nativ: These so-called missionaries, on their p: seem to attrib- ute the various social and other evils of which Hawaii has its share to other sources. Local Political Matters. Just now there is unusual local activity in politics. Ward meetings, have just be- gun nominations of candidates forthe con- stitutional convention. A somewhat pe- culiar choice was made last evening in the fifth ward, of a person known as Prince Kunuiakea. This gentleman is, when sober, of fine address, stately appearance, and much intelligence. He is one-fourth white, being a grandson of the noted John Young, the chief lieutenant of Kamehameha the Great, by whose very essential aid that chief made himself master of the whole group. Kunuiakea’s mother was sister to the mother of the late Queen Emma, both | being daughters of John Ycung by a chief- ess of high rank and noble character. As in the case of the majority of Hawaiians of high rank, there was a great disc-ep- ancy between the reputed and the actual paternity of the children ‘of these ladies. Queen Emma was the real daughter of Dr. T. C. Boyd Rooke, and thus three-fourths white. Her young cousin, Kunuiakea, on his part was the actua! son of King Kauikeaouli, or Kamehameha III. It was his legal father’s proud boast that his wife had borne twin sons to the king. The other twin died in infancy. Kunuiakea is thus really a grandson of the Conqueror Kame- hameha, and is the only living person who inherits the ancient royal blood. Alexander Liholeho, Kamehameha Iv, whom Kanikeaouli made his heir, was also well known to be the latter's son by his half-sister Kinau. Kuniakea was thus Al- exander’s half-brother in fact, and to his cousin, Queen Emma,who married Liholino, was a sort of brother, if not “in law.” He is thus looked upon by the natives as very big Indian. In fact, if he had been behav- ng himself twenty years ago, Kalakaua would have had no chance of being elected king. But this young “Prince Albert,” as he was called, had been plunging into a series of very disgraceful excesses and no one trusted him. Proud of His Blood. Indeed, no one trusts him now. At the same time he holds himself very proudly, as of the loftiest native rank, which he really is. He has always looked with con- tempt on the pretentions of Kalakaua and his sisters to royal blood. Having no chance whatever himself for the throne, he readily seconded the revolution and the abolition of the monarchy and now gets put forward as a candidate for the conven- tion. He will probably carry some native | support with him. If he can keep sober long enough, he may get elected. The royalists held a mass meeting on the th, which was thinly attended and showed no enthusiasm. The burden of the speeches was that the natives must not register, must not take the oath, must take no part in the coming election. This advice will probably be followed by the large majority of the natives, who still believe in a proba- bility that the queen will be restored and fear evil consequences to themselves if they take the oath. Nearly one thousand voters have regis- tered in this city. The coming week, which is the last, will doubtless bring the number up to fifteen hundred, or one-half of all those registering before the last election. About two hundred natives have registered so far. The Portuguese are holding off, waiting for some assurance from their government that they will not forfeit Por- tuguese protection by taking an oath to support this government. Most other whites feel assurance on that point and register freely. AMEHAMEHA. ——_+e+ -—___ Her Treat. From Puck. Wife. Now, deary, I made you these nice tarts with my owney-owney hands—and they are filled with something you are very, very fond of. I’m just crazy to see you eat one.” Husband (eyeing the tarts cautiously.)— “How good of you, darling!—and what are these lovely tarts filled with” inevitably hasten on our manifest destiny of annexation to the great republic. They Saved the Trees, Probably the greatest benefactor of agri- culture, particularly of fruit culture, in these Pacific regions is Prof.Albert Koebele. He is now doing a great work in Hawaii. Just as Pasteur found the microbes of hu- man diseases and the secret of combating them, so Koebele is the expert who knows all the plant lice that blight and poison the trees of California and Hawaii, and he knows how to find the ladybugs and other insects that will exterminate those deadly little pest Some three years ago our finest shade trees were suddenly attacked in a fearful manner by a new pest—the cottony cushion scale. Honolulu, you know, is a splendid park of shade trees. Every street is closed in with stately palms, samangs and other noble trees filling the yards on despair, and wondered who could have been near the time she pounded her finger, either side. It was the samangs which were first attacked—our finest trees, A neighbor Wife (in great triumph). — “Tabasco sauce!” ss Washington Square, From Life. CHEAP TRIP TO PARIS How to Moderate Expenses on a European Visit. LUXURIES WITHOUT NECESSITIES The Pleasures of Leisure in the Gay French Capital. COST OF A 70 DAYS’ OUTING oe eer Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. PARIS, April 24, 1894. HERE ARE THREE methods of moderat- ing the expenses of a European trip. Each has its formula. 1. Give me the necessi- tles. of life and I will do without its lux- tries. 2. Give me the luxuries of life and I will do without its necessities. 3. Leave your wife at home. If she only doubled the expenses of Euro- pean travel, the risk of taking her along would not be so terrific. But she quad- ruples them, and for four reasons, the last of which is that the American woman can- not endure to be officially connected with anything not first-class. She will eat sec- ond-class meals, but they must be served to her in a first-class hotel ard at first- class prices; she will travel on a second- cless boat, but she must be a first-class passenger on that second-class boat. If you must have company, persuade a couple of your friends to make the trip, and you can borrow money from them. In the category of necessities without luxuries should be placed the personally eerducted tours. They are arranged so admirably, with such economy of time and personal initiative, that one is whisked throvgh Europe worthily, without mistakes, without alarms, without regrets. Where Leisure is Laxury. The essential luxury of Paris is leisure to breathe in an artistic atmosphere, free from money embarrassments (according to your station in life), and to have the physical comforts of good food and drink. When I say artistic atmosphere I mean that Paris is artistic in its pleasures as well as in its architecture. It is for the tripper who, wishing to get a good grip on this luxury, is willing to forego a few necessities, that these few lines are written. 1. Paris is not the place to make a first acquaintance with French history, the netric system, European geography or the | theory ef the decorative arts. There have ‘been tourists so preoccupied in the perusal of their Baedekers that they passed through the gallery of the Luxembourg and almost missed the pictures. Evidently the man of modest means who desires to save his time as well as money will read and re- read his while he is yet at home. Guide Books. | Nothing is more distressing than to be | in Paris and lack free spending money for litde things. Tourists traveling first-class have been made miserable over cab fares: they have had their marmalade for break- fast and their scrawny chicken leg for din- ner in foreordained first-class hotels—the pale and flaccid chicken leg that swims in watery gravy—yet they have tempted chol- erine with the Seine water. . Do not waste money on the steamer. Whatever the delight of being first-class for a few days means, it will be put aside by true economists. Go on a crack ship, and by all means, but go second-class. The food, service and accommodations of the second cabin in a modern crack steamer are as good as what the bulk of first-class passengers are accustomed to in their own homes. Proof, two random bills of fare taken from one of the leading steamships: Breakfast—Tea or coffee, hot rolls and but- ter, oatmeal and milk, ham and eggs, minced veal, Irish stew, rice cakes. Din- ner—Mutton broth,roast beef, boiled chicken, vegetables, plum pudding and cheese. ‘The second-class rate varies according to the steamship line from $4 against $55 by the Red Star line (to Antwerp). When Once in France. You can get from New York to Paris for $45. Then you will see some strange phe- nomena. You will see the great bulk of the first-class passengers you have envied on the boat descending from their grandeur to the second-class upon the railway. If you go to Havre begin there to use your guide book. When dickering with hotel- keepers show them the name of their es- tablishment in the book, point to the price of the cheapest room the book accuses them of giving and tell them you want it. If they say their prices have risen tell them you will write to the publisher (he requests all tourists to do so), in order to acquaint him with the change. This ought to fetch up the most obdurate. Either take simply a room and eat outside or take the hotel pen- sion in full. Never eat meals a la carte in| your hotel. It costs too much. I say this while you are still at Havre, because it would be a good thing to take a pedestrian trip to Trouville (ten miles distant by a charming, shady country road, on which you may hear the chimes of Normandy and rest yourself at every mile in some quaint village, drinking Norman cider}. If you have your bicycle, so much the better. The steamship companies charge you no freight on a bicycle if you have only one trunk be- sides. On entering France the duty on your bicycle will be about $0. When you pay this ask for a “consignation,” which you pre- sent on taking your bicycle out of the land of France, when they will give you your $0 back. There are no bad roads in France; bicycling is one of the most ideal pleasures in this country; and an enthusiastic bicy- clist can buy road maps for all of Europe, and so, lessening his railway expenses and being without the necessity of more arti- ficial pleasures, he ought to make a trip at almost half the cost I indicate a little later on. If you arrive at Havre during July or August, you should not miss one Way at least at Trouville, the most fashionable beach, the only one that has a board walk, aad Boulevard des Capucines along the sea- shore, Se a! 2 Pari Having saved a considerable sum on his steamer passage, the cheap tripper (obliged to save somewhere or other) may begin to reimburse himself in pleasure. Take a cheap room in a second-class or first-class hotel, eat nothing in the house and live a life of freedom. Leading hotels ask 6 francs a day for their least expensive rooms, with no charge for attendance or electric light. Undoubtedly there is an advantage in be- ing in so great a hotel, an advantage much greater than that of being first-class on a steamer, with your head upon a pillow swal- lowing ice, which is the only alleviation for seasickness. I myself would drive directly to one of the little hotels, which are neither | chic nor over clean (in the American sense), but where the prices are low, where your Mberty is great and where the people are honest. I should ask them for a 4-franc room, including light and attendance, and stay there a day or so while hunting for a room or boarding horse or a hotel which would do better by me. On the Boulevard. | I would not even take my morning coffee | in the hotel. 1t is but a step to the Boule- vard, the pleasure promenade of Paris. | Nothing is more charming in the whole | round of existence for an overworked American than to drink the morning air | guide to tel —_—_——————————— down with his morning coffee on the ter- race of a Boulevard cafe. New sawdust, like gold dust, decorated the sidewalk un- derneath the little chairs and tables. The waiters are polite, because they are fresh — rg ag The aromatic coffee, mix- ing with the fragrance of the air, and the good smell of printers’ ink as one unfolds the virgin newspaper, compose themselves into a piquant buttonhole bouquet to dec- orate your soul with of a Paris summer morning. A little later you may take a glass of absinthe (one glass only, and well watered), while you sit and watch the pretty women passing, passing, passing. Yor your lunch and dinner you will pa- tronize the Duval restaurants. These eat- ing houses are famous, and are scattered over all of Paris. What It Should Cost. The expenses of the day should be as follow Room, light and attendance, 4 francs; morning coffee, with butter, the best in Paris, at the Cafe de la Paix, with fee, 1.70 francs; lunch (Duval), 2.50; dinner (Duval), 3.00; beer at night, 2.00; total, 13.20 franes ($2.65). These are the absolute- ly necessary expenses, to which $1 a week must be added for the wash. Here is a lunch and dinner from a Duval: Lunch—Fee, 15 centimes; bread, .05; cover, d wine, .00; fresh mackerel, ravigotte, ; blanquette of veal, .60; apricot tart, 0 francs (50 cents). -15; bread, .05; cover, .1 » 00; pates d'Italie, .30; fried sole, baked mutton and green beans, .70; demi: Suisse (cream cheese with sugar), .20. To- tal, 3 francs (6) cents). No boarding house (though charging 12 francs a day) will give you food so carefully cooked. In all the boarding houses the wine is extra; here you have your wine included. The estimate of 13.20 francs a day just made above means extremely good living. The 2 francs for beer at night is inter- changeable with lemonade or coffee or ice cream, though you should never, never drink the Paris water. Night after night you will be sitting out. It is a never-ending show, the cheapest, most delightful, most instructive of Paris- ian experiences. Thus, following the rumi- nating life I indicate, you may be several weeks in Paris before you have visited the sewers and the catacombs. Cheap Amusements. The cheap tripper will find the following amusements practically free in Paris: Al museums and galleries; the streets, especial- ly amusing from the tops of omnibuses, 3 cents; the quais of the Seine, for the old books and prints; the Bois; the Jardin d’Acclimatation, 10 cents—beware the res- taurant; the Seine boats, for Charenton, St. Cloud, &c., 4 to 6 cents; the music in the parks; the cafe-terraces (you may sit two hours over one 6-cent glass of beer) the Grand Opera, top gallery 40 cents; the Opera Comique, top gallery, — enough for anybody, including ladies, 30 cents; the Moulin Rouge, 40 cents; the Cirque Ete, 40 cents; the Jardin de Paris, 60 cents. I would go often to the same places rather than attempt to make the tour of Paris; thus you will get the right flavor of each instead of a confused jumble of ideas, Viwit. Two weeks spent thus in Paris, with the dominant idea of leisure, never hurrying, free from duties to any one, free from pro- grams or the advice of friends, will make the cheap tripper more familiar with Paris life than many a more traveled tourist. The ignorance of tourists is a thing be- yond belief. Two weeks of such independ- ent knocking about will make the cheap tripper feel able to undertake @ little Euro- pean trip from Paris and returm. Or, bet- ter still, he will make several short circles, from each of which he will jave earned the right to experience the joy of @ return to Paris. . So far his expenses have been: New York to Paris, $45; fees and expenses on boat, two weeks’ expenses in Paris at $2.5 a spending money, $2 a Gay, $28; 8’ wash, $2. Total, $120. © Tours From Paris. For circular tours from Paris you must go to Cook's or Gaze'’s agencies. Here is a charming little flight, uncomplicated, an@ capable of being engineered by any one. Cook's rate is 97 francs ($19.40. Paris, Beh fort (fortifications against Germany), Delle, Basle, Lucerne Gnciuding steamer on the lake and railway fare up the Righi), Basie, Chaumont and back to Paris. At Lucerne one of the “unpretentious hotels” of Bae deker will give you a room with light and attendance for two francs and a balf a day. Another and a greater trip is that of Paris, Brussels, Antwerp (for the fair this sum- mer), Re am, Leyden, Amst@rdam, Co- teamer to Bonn), Coblenz, Frankfort, Mayenne, Bingen, Its cost (Cook's tickets) is 145 francs (always travel second class), or $28. The full expenses on any of these trips need never exceed $3 a day, Including spend- ing money, if you patronize only the hotels marked “unpretentious” in your guide book. Back Paris. Suppose that you have had three weeks of this last trip. The living expenses will be $63, the railway fare $28. Once back in Paris, which will now seem a@ familiar to you as your home, two more Weeks of Pa» risian living will cost you (as before) $67, plus the three weeks’ wash while on your trip, I had forgotten it (you sbould not fail to pay your laundry bills). Your fare to New York is $45, and $8 expenses on the boat again concludes the tale. Your whole expenses for seventy days will thus have been some more or less, with good lee- way for spending money, a trip that will not lack its petites douceurs, it is something over $% a day. You will know Paris as few tourists learn to know it. You will have seen the Rhine. You will know the Paris opera and the theaters, the giddy gardens and the promenades. You will have eaten supper in German gar- dens where the band plays and in Parisian suburbs on the Seine. You will not have ; missed the lion at Lucerne Gf you take in Lucerne), the Right or the Wooden may have lacked the English marma- lade for breakfast; you will not have a you Mount Pilatus is so named from Pontius Pilate, who committed suicide by jumping from its peak; you will not have walked always in a queue, like charity school girls of a Thursday afternoon, be- hind a cockney picking up his b's as he drops them. In the Louvre at Paris you will have to hunt che Venus of Milo; she is worth it. Finally, you will have committed the error of loafing around the pleasant parks and streets of Paris because it rests and pleases you, instead of following the cockney to the sewers and the catacombs. STERLING HEILIG se ae Drifting. Frou the Bostoa Globe. We're out adrift in an open Just you and 1 — ‘On the ocean of life we now must And live or die, ps The waters are dancing in wild delight, ‘The ripples gleam; The tering sea, in beauty béigh Seems like a dream, Where are we drifting, ob, tell me, pray — To harbor clear, Or into the shadows, grim and gray, Where death is near? Loose not the clasp of your hand, my dear, ep close to m The darkness deepens, the rocks are mear, I cannot see. But I feel your kiss, and I bear your voice, I trust you, dea: 3 ‘Though the storm king rages, I still rejoice, re near. Over the Fence is Out. From Truth.