Evening Star Newspaper, April 14, 1894, Page 18

18 HOW TO LOOK COO And at the Same Time Be Cool and in the Style. WHITE AND BLACK 10 BE THE COLORS A Pretty Girls Outfit of Thin Dresses for Twenty-Five Dollars. ECONOMY AND FASHION peenneonee ane nerney PWreitten Exclusively for The Evening Star. OU CANNOT MISS being in the fashion if you get a black and white dress. It may be of satin, which always makes @ perfectly elegant gown, or it can be of lawn or print,or dim- ity or silk, and if you can stand the ex- travagance of it, it may even be of wash silk:but whatever the material, it will be quite the favorite for the new summer gowns that are now being made up. It is difficult to tell why black and white should be such favorites,for the apostles of beauty insist that only an old woman or a very Young one with the complexion of a lily ‘Will look well in black; and they are quite as seriously opposed to the dead whites, and consider them bad, very bad taste in- @eed in combination. And yet lovely wo- Man goes right on wearing the two colors alone or in combination, and looking as charming as can be; which goes to show that the average woman knows pretty well what is becoming and will have it, not- withstanding the objections of the high Priests of beautf. One woman who wears black and white @xclusively says that she has several good Feesons for doing it, and the main one is economy. So many women think that Diack is expensive, but this lady finds it economical, because sue can make over Swiss and Silk. the olf gowns with combinations of the two colors year after year; they never go out of style, and there are no new shades to tantalize one in selecting materials to make them over with, while the weaves and figures and the fab- Fries are much more numerous than in colors, because you find all the new ones for colors duplicated in black. She finds that people never say of her, “There comes Mrs. Blank in that everlasting old red or blue or green gown,” because she is in- conspicuous, and yet she is a woman of whom men say, “She is a good dresser,” ‘while they could not describe a single fea- ture of her sown. Somebody has said that the best-dressed women are those who impress you with their general style and gcod taste, and yet you cannot remember the color or the fashion of their attire. ms for wearing black of more than aver- @ge female height and size, she finds that black not only tends to reduce the appar- ent size, but by being neutral in color does Rot draw attention to because of oddity ef some new shade. has half a dozen other reasons for wearing black and white, each one as good as the foregoing. That the economicai idea is a goo’ one is borne out by history. In those years when finan- cial depression bas been most severely feit black and white have come to the front stronger favorites the > any other two colors. It Leoks Cool. White will be a prime favori‘e this summer. There is nothing prettier or neater than white for summer wear if it is properly made. You may make your gowns of all Wool or of cotton, of wash silk or of linen, and excepting the first cost of the mate- rial, they need cost you no more than a simple print to have them laund-red. One Tule is absolutely necessary in making up light fabrics for general wear in summer; You must lining, else they will le y have been washed; the main b: immer dress is to have it light ins, and if it ts stiffened with lining you might just as well cling to your lined winter gowns. Here is a pretty swiss muslin t most any informal occasion in the summer and may be made very effective with slight changes in colors to wear with it. This Gress is made of white dotted swiss, and as it lodks in the pic ure, ts intended for af- | ternoon wear on the promenade or street in Yery warm weather. Zam going to tell you how a pretty girl White. to be a whole In the first five cents a of it to make In Lavender a will make th wardrobe of Pp the Yard, and it t the dress gowns thers being from the Ts with will do for ai- | at holds the |and both fullness down, the waist lin: there is a frill of the swiss left below the belt. The big full sleeves stop at the elbow in a puff, where they are caught up to the thin swiss. A Sn: for the Washerwoman. The dress as now described is as easy to “do up” as a child's apron. The slip that will be worn with this dress on the strect is lemon yellow; it is plain satine, made in princess style, with a full skirt,finished with two ruffles of good wash lace at the foot. The waist of the satine fits the figure close- ly, and the sleeves are short, plain ones, with a rather plain fall of the wash lace. To wear with this are long silk cuffs of lemon luberty silk made on a light lining, which where For an Elderly Lady. can be easily adjusted to the puff of the | white sleeve. The crush belt is of the same jsilk, and the stock collar. She has not | found a hat yet, but thinks she will have la big white one witif a lot of lace, lilies of the valley and some yellow ribbon. She has three other slips to wear with this white swiss. A red satine one has ruf- fles of red silk, three, I think, and they are quite full and pinked at the edges. The sleeves are long and faced with red silk | from the elbow to the hand, and fastened | to them is a deep full ruffle of fine white | embroidery that falls to the wrist, from un- der the puffed white sleeve. With this she wears one of those collarettes of red silk with a deep fall of white lace; the ruffle at the bottom of the waist is put under and a wide sash of red silk is worn fastened at the left side with a big bow and long ends. The opposite side of the skirt will be caught up so as to display the red silk ruf- fies, and held to the underskirt with a ro- sette of red ribbon. The Varicty ts Attractive. Another lining ts a seagreen silk slip, Pieced up out of an old party dress. It has fine lace ruffles on the bottom, and the sleeves, which end at the elbow, under the swiss ones, are finished with a very full ruffle of six-inch lace. The neck of the slip is left quite low, and the swiss neck is prettily rounded, just a little low, with a frill of lace and a twist of narrow green ribbon to finish it next the throat. The Waist will be banded in with three rows of green ribbon, fastened, two on the left and one on the right side, with a small rosette of the ribbon; the skirt will be caught very hizh on both sides, forming an overskirt, and held in place with big bows of the ribbon. The fourth change for this dress is also a makeshift. The underskirt is an old lavender silk, that 1s so faded that none of it can be exposed; the bottom of ; the skirt has a ruffle of very sheereand aw- fully cheap—embroidery; up the ieft side to within twelve inches of the belt is row after row of the same embroidery, extend- ing nearly half around the skirt at the bot- tom, but narrowing toward the top. The white swiss skirt is caught almost to the beit on this side under a large bow of lavender silk, the ends of which fall to the bottom of the dress. The bodice is made of lavender silk and has as garniture fine embroidery and lavender ribbons, and the big puffed sleeves are of lavender silk, made | quite short. all in white she has her white moire sash and a collarette of moire and fine embroid- | ery. This young lady has just twenty-five | dollars to expend for thin dresses for visit- ing and party wear for the summer, and at first declared that she could not make it get her more than one silk dress, but she Black and White Zephyr Costume. knew that one dress would not suffice, so she sat down and studied it all out,with the result that I have given you, and she got it | all inside the limit of the twenty-five dol- lars. Some of the new organdies would make up beautifully over the colored slips, | but the trouble is they are so expensive to Start with, and they look dreadfully after | they are laundered. In fact, they will not | launder at all. That is why the white gown is the cheapest in the end, though it may cost more at the start. These Are Also Beauties. A pretty black and white zephyr gown for an elderly lady has been constructed for} country wear. The waist, which has no lining, has a belt of twisted blaci: satin, under which falls a ruffie of coarse white lace. The skirt ripple ruffle is headed with a band of bisck satin ribbon knotted at intervals, and under it is a narrow but full rufile of white lace. A lovely gown of lavender linen lawn is made with a skirt in which all the full- ness is put at the back,and is trimmed with a clear white lace in two rafiles at the foot, a wide fall of the same around the neck and two ripples of it forming a kind of jacket front. The big sleeves form one ru’- fle at the elbow and a fail of the lace comes beneath that. The het is lavender straw a with lace and lavender tips. A pretty at hi gown for a matron is made of gray French gingham with a rals- ed figure in blac! It is rather plainly made with a biack lace collarette on a black satin stcck and black lace to fall over the hands. The ruffle at the foot of the skirt is headed with white lace insertion, and there is a band*of it around ‘the plain bodice, at the wrists and around the satin stock. 1 bodice is pointed back and front and lined. BELL BALL. pete Effecting a Compromise. From Christian Obse: t “For goodness sake, Mary,” asked the lyoung lady's mother at breakfast, “what was the matter with you and Harry in the parlor Jast ni “Why, mamn daughter demu Wh: What?” inquired the and quarre! of mani. ‘sy embering the cir- “1 me to take the him to take it be- know. rel about?” 2. only he {i I wouldn’ led for halt cause he was company, “Well, what did you “Well, mamma, wv of us took it,’ —we compromised, Then when she desires to be | THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, APRIL 14, 1894-TWENTY PAGES. FASHION’S SHACKLES One Woman Who Reads Her Decla- ration of Independence 10 THE DISGUST OF A HAIR DRESSER The Folly of Those Who Sacrifice Looks to Style. FORMS OF HAIR DRESSING Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE MISE EN scene was a hatr- dresser’s shop, or as the madame would zal it, coiffeuse par- the reader will observe that pleas2 the term is hers, not mine—and the drama- tis personae were the id madame and a ‘oung socie ay who was being coi fured for some grand function, The opera- tion was about over when [ entered, ant the first remark heard was quite phatic, as it came musically down the shop from behind the screen. ‘Stars and garters, what a Now just proceed to ta’ that pi off of the top of my head and gi low coiffure that will not accentuate longitudinal proportions of my neck!” “OQ, but my dear m'selle, that is the very latest from dear delightful Paree, 1 as }you! It just arrived yesterday,” expe j lated the French colffeuse, with the richest | Irish accent. “I have tried it on no one but icature! of staff ive me a the yourself, and if you only knew how ex-) tremely graceful and b ming it is— “Ratone: bre in thi: sprightly m’selle, whose bre: } Searcely permit her the use of th J esque “rats,” but did approve musical Spanish pseudonym. to me about style! I have submitted with shortened breath to the ty et strings, padded my hi | extenders, cultivated a bunion crop for the | sake of narrow-toed boots and, built my | | Shoulders out to make thet square, and all | So Stately. in the name of fashion, but I draw the line | }on making a guy of myself simply for the | chance to that I Introduced the last | coiffure 2 la Parisienne, when it makes me | look like an elongated nh. I'm not over- burdened with beauty, and I can’t see any kind of sense in sacrificing on the altaz of | la mode the feeble remnant that [ do pos- | sess. I have nice gir and I mean to make the most of it. ‘he way you have ar-| ranged it makes me lool like a dummy for | wigs—pull it down.” Madame French-Erin had no alternative | after that peremptory order, but she obeyed with much grumbling and many remon- strances. I yot around at the side of the screen, where I could see the operation of “pulling down.” “Most of the young ladies are only too glad to leave their coiffures to my taste,” said madame, in a grieved tone, “and I never fail to give them the latest, the very latest! I say it with pride that I permit no coiffeuse in the city to be ahead of me in the latest style The Style Not the Person. tent bust | © | A steady to make what Charley calis horse-tail knot of that and you will have it. Now, part my front hair, brush out that ‘friz- zle’ and fix it as I tell you.” While mad- ame was working on the bangs to get them smooth, the young lady commenced on the pictures hanging on the wall show- ing prize coiffures. ow, if 1 had a good neck I would hke to try that modification of an 1830. But I am too tall, and my face is too thin to stand the pompadour effect in front. It would take a woman of stately presence and splendid physique to carry a headdress like that. Mrs. Lamont could wear it, but it would suit Mrs. Bis- sell even better. There is a pretty style tor a woman with a high forehead. It is a mistake of nature to give a woman a bread, high forehead, for it is now a well-established fact that it really means nothing, and it is often a disfigure- ment. There, you have that smooth enough; now part it nicely in the middle and curl it so that it will be in loose rings on each side of the part when you comb it out. Curl the long bangs and fasten them back under the knot. Now curl the short hair around my neck. Cut it! Well, not while I keep my _ senses. Why le taste to cut the hair on the you see, there is just enough w; hair ‘to make it look natural in the back, and the knot is placed just where it hidet a deficiency in the Shape of my head; the gloss and sheen of well-kept locks draws ‘atiention to my one beauty, and my rather pronounc forehead is just hidden under the curly of close-lying hair, at the rings which, 89 time ar € my fa now, am I? edge that the ef shoriens the a me 3 fine, but begged fe to not fail to remark to any in- “Oh, certainly,” was the laughing re- sponse, “But, madame, don’t you really think now that women make great fools of themselves in their attempt to follow the fashion regardless of iis adaptation to their t what would you have? Must one wear one style forever? There would be small show for my business if 1 were to en- courage that idea. ho; there would be fools in any It is mostly the women who remind cne of cadavers Who wear their dresses su as to dispiay the most of their unlovely an- i they take likewise to the ex- of hair dressing. Those kind of women have always existed and I presume they always wi are to society what the funay papers are to literature. We must have sometting to laugh ayyou know. diet of pickles and’ preserves ld produc epsia, yet we need sour in moderation to sat of our natures. 1 think that the holds good in all the re as of life, meatal as well as physical and both We should adapt things to our individual needs, Meredith has said that better than { can: “For the value of all things exists, not, indeed, if in themselves, but man’s use of them, feed- ing man’s ne “When papa’s bank bursts I shall take up the cating of a ‘promoter’ for women; 0 around teiling them how to apparel themselves so as to make the most of their ood points aad cover up their undesirable ones. I think that there will be more money in it than in seiling cosmetics or corsets.” And all that Madame French- Erin could say was: “Wel serve us!’ pre- , the saints IW. B. ce PAST TWENTY. The Ages of Women and What They Signifty. From Harper's Bazar. ‘There was a time when after a girl had passed twenty she was called passe, so that it really became a matter of moment with “I don’t wonder that some of the girls “go off’ in looks so soon after coming out if they submit without protest to the tyranny | of modistes and hairdressers,” rejoined the | irrepressible m'selle, as she gazed admir- | ingly at her long, shining locks, as they | turffled about her shoulders when released | from the pins. “Here I am cnly eighteen, and in my first season; yet you dressed my | hair in a fashion that would serve for a dowager, with three double chins and a Yard of fat shoulders above her low-necked | dress.”" “bow will m'selle have her hair dressed, then?" asked the thoroughly disgusted madame. “In the first place, brush out all the crimps and waves on the under part.” Madame groaned, but obeyed the imperious order. ‘ow brush it till it fs smooth and shin- Ing;” and while madame’s bri back and forth through on lengths | “m'selle’” imparted some interesting infor- maticn, “Realiy, now, Madame French-Erin, you ougnt to know better than to friz and wave and puff hair like mine, just as you would that of a woman who has not enough |to make a respectable bang. I have long, ‘hick, shining hair, and it should be dressed | to show off those qualities to the greatest | advantage. My head is not very la d my neck is long and thin. When yx all my hair up to the top of my head and crimp it into a fuzz below, and a mat of bangs above, just as you would for those who have scant coverings, {top my small till I look like Charl Iteels after a champagne supper, Mke Aunt Judy looks under a ‘b: freshly laundered linen. Then I am thin, and my neck {s scrawny. You draw all the | hair up from it, and it looks like g | studied this matter of ¢ ry thoroughly as she twisted her head to get the effect of | the light on the shining tresses, flatter myself I know a good bit Now, comb the hair up to the top of my head—so, and tie it. Now catch hold of the, | A High Forehead, ends, and close up to the head with the j other hond, and draw it through in a half- bow kno — | “Oh, bu’ my dear m’selle!’ screamed the jexcited ma*ime “it {3 so pas: N se! Oh, very, I do assure ~3u; old as—a: x Various Coiffures ¢ “Mrs. Methuselah,” interjected the young | lady composediy. “Well, if she found it becoming, as I do, I don’t blame her for doing her hair so. Now, piease proceed | nsidered. | | o her if it were necessary to state her age, and she was thought to exhibit some hardt- hood if she stated it without pressing reason, But so far has the world pro- gressed, while spinning down the grooves of change, that now a girl at thirty is not So old in estimation as once she was at twenty, and such is the advance from that period when animal charm was the greater, that it is now acknowledged that at thirty- five a woman is in her prime for all the uses and enjoyments of life to herself and to others, ven although at forty her hair may show a thread or two of silver, they argue nothing against her charm aad effect, and are nol more unbecoming than was the powder with which she sprinkled her hair and made herseif bewitching in mas- querades of y ago, and they have very Little to do with the decrease of beauty, any way, for a fair skin and a rosy color are often brightened and made more attractive by what is considered prematurely gray hair than otherwise. And if there are lines about the eyes they are not noticed when the eyes kindle with intelligence and the curve in gentle smiles. may not have been particularly at- tractive at twenty, even if pretty with the prettiness that rareiy fails in youth; she y have had long-iegged gaucheries, shy- Ss, ignorance, and other things of the sort to contend with, but if she has reaily won the battle beyond a . ‘Then those long limbs have given her grace, she observed in the midst of her shyness and profited by her observa- tion, and she has had a score of years in which to correct her ignorance. Th the wo n between thirty and forty has as- quired a knowledge of the world, of men and things, perhaps of angels, that makes her able to meet and charm those who when she was twenty would have regarded her as they do a doll baby—a pretty toy for the hour, but too tiring for more’tnan the hew nd many of them would be glad to have her brighiness brighten a home for them, if she had not already found out that she is better off as she is ‘The period of marriage has, indeed, ad- vanced much that it is regarded as rather deplorable for a woman to marry e twenty, and the greater number of wemen now do not marry much before thirty. Acquaintance with this fact gives the woman of mature years the ease and savoir-faire which is a very great addition to any woman's charm. Moreover, in pass- ing so far through Ife without the serious household cares which necessarily beset those who are married and surrounded by growing families, she has been able to make the most of hers 1 of her graces; she has learned the art istening, and liste ing intelligently, which is equivalent speaking so, dventure to and often says more than speech. She has rounded and enriched her- and is nobly planned’ beauty only. not so happy her famil. hearer a “perfect woman than if she had youth and With all this, perhaps, she 1s as the woman surrounded by But then that is another story. wee He Felt Hurt. From the Detroit Free Press. On a Michigan avenue car the other day a woman had a baby about a year old on her lap, and next on her right ish man who was evidently fond of babies. ‘The child looked at him, and he smiled and clucked in return, He was getting along fir ely when all of a sudden the kid puckered began to howl. there! Don't cry, my_ precious !" said che mother, in Soothing tones. ‘Seems to be afraid of me,” observed the es and cows right along and never seemed to care about ‘em. A giddy young woman across the ausie be- e, and a man standing up and ap uttered a gruff “Haw, pped his leg. The old n flushed up and looked hurt in his feel- earing another giggle and anot naw, haw!’ on the way he ro: up and went out on the platform and said t nductor: = bout the tenth time I've heen insulted on this road this year, and the next hyena who does it is going to get both eyes knocked into one!” | | {an eye. SHIRTS FOR WOMEN And Also Vests and Neckties and All but Trousers. SENORASARA LEARNS OF BLAZER SUITS Also Some Interesting Details About Men’s Clothes. LEGISLATIVE NECKTIES Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HEN I WAS REIN- carnated there must have been a mistake in fitting me out with prejudices, I don't believe in re- incernation at ell, but that seems to be the only plausible way of explaining why I am charged with harboring ideas that are fifty years behind the age. Dor- othy and Elaine told me the other day that 1 was a good deal of an old fogy, and with some of my ideas of matters and things would have fitted into the first haif of the century much better than the last, and all this because I objected to the masculine style contem- plated in their new spring blazer suits— what a horrid term that is for as useful an article of aitire. You see, I objected first of all to the stif€ and altogether mas- culine shirt, but before I had quite ex- plained that I thought it warm, ungrace- ful and too mannish for dainty young ladies Louise and Jennie came, and shortly after- ward the other giris reinforced them, so, as Dick would say, “I wilted and threw up my hands.” It was a regular dress convention for about an hour, and, being in the minority, I was not permitted to have any say. I tried to appeal from Doro- thy’s decision, but she declined to enter- in the appeal. When I remonstrated ainst such tyranny and czarism, she promptly informed me that czars were all the fashion now. Those girls can't muzzle the press, however, and that is where I have the advantage of them, “We were talking about our new shirts,” explainéd Dorothy. “What do you think of the samples which we have just got from New York?” “Are you going to have colored ones?” questioned Louise, hesitatingly, as the samples spread over her lap till it looked like a painter's palette. . “Why, of course, I hate those stift shiny | white boards of things that men wear. Why should we not wear colored ones?" ‘ou know what the man said who wrote about the ‘bad breaks’ that the four hun- |dred make. He was particularly bitter against the men who ‘wear gaudily tinted linen, of the pink bar variety,’ and said that they ought to be cut dead. Of course, we don’t want to wear things that a man Wouldn't, do we?” Color in the Shirt Front. “We have much better authority than that, at least it is later, and I think is much more trustworthy. It ¢omes from a man modiste, who says that colored shirts in pink and biuve, stripes and solid grounds with white figures, such as polka dots or crescents, will be in vogue this spring. The collars should be attached and per- fectly straight; the cuifs of the same ma- | terial as the body of the shirt. These | Shicts can be worn in the afteraoon, and, in fact, are allowable until the candles are ah, I am so glad,” sighed Louise, a: Dorothy cited her authority. “I simply hate opaque white; it makes a sallow skin like mine almost saffron in hue. Even a colored tie won't relieve it. Oh, about ties! What kind will we wear? Can’t we have the same kind that men ¢ f course,” asrerted Elaine. “Only we will do the article of attire justice and men do not. A ready-made tle is a horror, and no well-dressed woman will any more wear one than a well-dressed man would. We have the advantage in that, however, @ woman can tie a bow and the averge man cannot. He thinks he can, but the result is more often sorrowful than suc- cessful. He gets one loop longer than its fellow, it droops on ons side and kicks up vagaries are simply distressing. “Indeed they are! There is on one thing about a woman's dress that is as contrary as a four-in-hand, and that is the placket opening! It will gap, and you can't help it,” observed Nora. “I think sometimes that men’s neckties are an out- ward evidence of the inward perturbation of spirit. If neckties could talk they couldn't have expressed the opinions cf their wearers any more emphatically than some of them did that stormy day that Preceded the seating of Mr. O'Neill. The litue black string that Mr. Crisp wea and by courtesy calls a necktie was nearly around under his left ear. It is not a ‘made’ tie; anybody can see that with half Then there is the tie that Mr. Richardson of Tennessee wears. It fairly bristles with red and gray plaid aggre: siveness when he is in the chair, and yet he is one of the gentlest mannered men in the House. The oddest thing about his gay ties is that they are the kind that are called ‘Windsor’ and are supposed to belong to women alone.” Neckties From the House “Mr. Reed's ties interest me,” remarked Elaine. “He is not a man who strikes you as likely to think about such things, but he has quite an assortment of ties; one is a dull red with white spots, and another bright blue. He sometimes wears a black one with white dots, and recentiy has dis- played a black satin one. Now, I am won- dering if along with his other researches he finds time to delve into sartorial jour- nals enough to discover that the very latest fad for men is to wear black satin neck- ties, or black and white, just as women do. “Mr, Johnson of Indiana wears a brown tie and wears brown clothes and his hair is brown. He looks like a brown exclama- tion point when he gets on his feet and bears down on the stenographers. He is too light to wear any shade of brown, if he dui but know it,” asserted Bobbie. “When he dresses that way he is all of a color from his head to his heels.” lery. “Well, how do you like the taste ex- hibited by Mr. Hatch of Missouri?” asked Louise, @ wears a sky blue ready-made tle and it looks odd enough on a man of his size and dignity.” “Well, he can’t look any funnier in blue than Mr. Allen of Mississippi does in the flaming scarf that he has disported recent- ly,” was Hobbie’s reply. “Isn't {t the red- dest red you ever saw? It is so assertive that it makes an excellent guidon for the democrats to tollow; the white plume of | Navarre isn’t in it with that rv‘y orl- | flamme, as Mr. Allen comes rolling down on the other, and if it 1s a four-in-hand its | | | | | | i the center aisle with his Prince Albert fly- | ing out like wings, and the ends of that | flaming tie streaming out over his waist- coat. There are but three like it in the world, papa says. The brilliant idea was originated by Mr. Combs of New York, and he had three made to order, one of which makes himself a target for all eyes from the gallery; the second is buried under the whiskers of Mr. Catchings of Mississippt, and Mr. Allen was the proud recipient of the third. There are plenty of red neckties in the House, but compared with those three they are as water unto wine.” Hard on Stock Ties. “I'm afraid that we are not talking to the question,” interjected Dorothy at this junc- ture. “The question before the house is the selection of the component parts of the la mode blazer suit which we will wear this summer. Just now we have under consideration the section which deals with ties. I have been looking up authorities on the subject, and will now submit the opin- ion of a man modiste who caters to the ultra upper crust. He says that the ‘stock’ tie, that abomination that goes around the neck twice and makes you look as though you had muffled up for the mumps, ts to be quite fashionable. To be effective, it must be picturesque, and as most women who try to be picturesque are only plagiarisms, we will do as my man modiste says he shall—give the stock the go-by. He favors the half neglige hunting tie, which is bound to be picturesque unless you are an awful bungler. He says the Ittle bow, called “club tie,” will be worn a great deal by men and women, and he will also wear white pongee silk and Ascot ties with flowing ends; he thinks that there will be quite a rage for white pique ties also. “TI suppose we will want about the same,” Suggested Jennie, anxiously. “Yes. And then we must begin to think about-who shall launder these shirts.” “Why, Dorothy, we can have them Gone the way we always have, can’t wi “Indeed, we can't, Miss Louise. We will have to teach some one to do them properly, ‘h the duil finish, like Irish linen paper. It is extremely vulgar to wear the shining linen shirt, in either white or colors. “Oh, D you know such a lot,” sigh: , ow, I'd have gone and had mine ‘shined’ like I do my boots; wouldn’t it have been just awful?” As to to Ditto Suits, “It would, indeed,” murmured Jennie,deep in contemplation of the samples. “I think I will have six shirts, two blue, two pink, ene buff and one lavender. This buff is too Sweet for anything, but I am afraid it will spot when laundered.” “What kind of a waistcoat have you de- cided upon?” asked Dorothy. “My goodness! Have we got to wear gasped those things exactly like men?” Bobbie, in const2rnation. “Oh, you need not hav one e ditto suits unless “Well, what anyhow?" Dorothy on earth are ‘ditto’ suits asked 5ix voices In chorus. laughed, of course. The mischief knew that she had sprung something en- tirely rew upon them, and enjoyed the sen- sation immensely. “Well, a ‘ditto’ suit is one composed of ihree pieces all made of the same material, coat, waisicoat and trousers. AS we are not emancipated, the fi will the place of the trousers with us. I'm sure I had as much trouble to keep my last year’s dress skirt from bagging at the knees as any man ever had with his trouse: We will have more license than the me they should al- Ways wear ditto suits when they depart from the conventional black. That is, whoa they wear cheviot or wweeds tn light colors, lixe Senator Blackburn's new spring sult, but if a black coat and waistcoat are worn the trousers must not be ‘ditto’ unless the wearer is in deepest mournieg. That rule is imperative for men, but we can wear the three pieces, in light or dark, as we please. “What kind of waistcoats shall we have?” Nora, as though the question of their desirability was settled. “i suppose they will have to be plain, for I have read that fancy waistcoais are atrocious taste, om!y fit for ‘grooms and politicians.’ * “White pique is the prettiest,” suggested Mary. “I shall have one white pique and one buff duck, and one dit—one like my suit.” said Bobbie, stumbling over the new slang. The Proper Blazer Suit Style. “And what material shail the suits be?” queried Jennie. “We have not decided that yet.” “Serge by all means,” was Elaine's prompt suggestion. “Fine, soft serge. It sheds dust and is not open to any of tae objections of any other material. 1t is al- Ways neat, and if stylishiy made is pre- sentable for everyching, from a christening to a funeral.” “Now we have portant part. made “Why, Dorothy, dear, there is but one way to make a blazer’ suit, is there? Of course, there will be one extra piece of we make them with a waistcoat. * Now, let me tell you how to have these suits made—that is, the general plan,” said Blaine, before Dorothy could repiy. “There are as many ways nowadays to make blazer suits 2g there are girls to wear them, but the newest way is the prettiest yet, by ail edds. Not one has been seen here yet. The skirt must be made without lining, flaring at the bottom, and have but one seam, right down the back. It must be e: tly even around the bottom, and that means an inch or more shorter in the back than in the front, to allow for the natural droop that Most women have in the back. It must fit easily, but smoothly, around the hips, and the scant fullness be plaited and busheled flat in the back. The hem must be turned up and flesh felled, and have three rows of stitching. There should be two curved come to the most im- How shall we have them Pockets in the front of the skirt. The coat must have a short, full skirt, be lined with silk, and have turned-back lapels, faced with moire.” As to Silk Facings. “Wilt that be good form?” asked Jennie, quickly. “The man who wrote about the breaks of the four hundred said that only ‘sports and bad actors’ wore silk-faced coats, rolled back, because a gentleman knew with what his coat was lined. and did rot care to display {t to the public.” “The creature who wrote that book, my Gear, didn’t know enough about good so- ciety or its clothes to make an acceptable butler, though he thought that he could fool people into thinking that he really did know something. Any well-informed tatlor wiil tell you that a swell afternoon coat should | be lined and faced with silk, and so should | ours. The shirts may be such as our in- dividual tastes suggest, but they must have a dull finish in laundering. They must fasten down the front with three small sil- | ver studs, and the collars and cuffs will be | attached. The only sleeve buttons that are permissible are silver links, with the mi ogram on one and the crest on the othe Of course we are not anglomaniacs enough to go round wearing a crest that does not belong to us, so we will have one plain, | frosted button. The light isteoats will | be double-breasted and have three buttons. The skirt of the dress must be carefully creased down the ‘front after each w and the sleeves must be creased do outside. That is the very latest fad among the men—having the coat sleeves creased just as decidedly as the trousers. We must | have low-crowned, rather wide saflor hais, which must be white, or else ditto our dresses, and they will have no flowers or | feathers; either is atrocious taste on a| sailor; but there will be a band and bow of | ribbon to harmonize with the other things. | Our gloves must be gray, undressed suede, with black stitching. We will wear thic soled lace boots, and long-h sun umbrellas. The handles are thick, a much longer than they were last se: Ther ou like the tou n. ensemble ? i Y asserted, and then | went of to squander their several allow- ances on pink and wlue and buff shirts, But really the picture I drew from Elaine's description looks quite elegant. I believe I wil! } ave a quiet black one for myself, and | have it made with a black satin waistcoat | and facings, and wear a small, close hat | with it. I am informed that this will be a favorite past their first youth aud dotage. by the modiste tyle for women not yet in their 2NORA SARA. ——— His First Elephant, From Puck. Arthur—“I shouid think hed if they would crease his legs down the front, like papa’s!”” CHAT BY THE WAY Hints That Are Useful in Parlor and Kitchen. TREAD SOPTLY WHILE THE BREAD BARES The Delusion That Incomes, Espe- cially Small Ones, Are Elastio. FOR CROUP AND COLDS an old wife saying about the merits of the different days of the week: “They that wash on Monday have the week to dry; a ‘They that wash on Tuesday have let the day go by; They that wash on Wednesday much to blame, gb pchaae! There are certain stages of Water, no matter how sweet may be, tastes brackish and yet the patient will be devoured with Oftentimes a drink made of a of cranberry jelly dissolved in a ice water will be quite fruit jellies will answer, but they have a tart flavor always, . It is the height of folly to so smooth pathway of your children through life coat they oe roy od to overcome. It requires self-sacrifice to teach self-repres- sion, and self-reliance can be acquired emi through dependence upon one’s owm efforts. tf > © 8 Boe If you have had your hands for # long time in the “suds” or have been scrub- bing and scouring until it seems as though your skin is on fire from the irritation soap and water, rinse your hands in clear warm water and then wash them 4 vinegar or squeeze lemon juice on and work it well inte the flesh. This treat- ment often does wonders, but it ts well to remember that it is often the case that remedy that will work well on some skins is an irritant to others. _* © @ When you have a cake or bread in the oven don’t slam the oven door or walk heavily about the kitchen while It is bak- ing. A fine cake will be irretrievably ruin. ed by a slight jar at a certain stage of its baking, and one of the most prolific sources of bad bread is an utter ignorance of how to hapdle it when it is in the oven, . . If you desire to paper a wall that has wee whitewashed, rub the walls down with a cloth wet in strong vinegar or sal- aratus. és es The old-fashioned way of testing a cake to see if it is done is one of the surest ones after all. Select a smooth broom straw of goed size, and after rubbing it off draw the cake carefully to the edge of the oven and run the straw into the center. If it isdone it will come out smootl and free of dough; but if the cake is not ready to come from the oven the straw will have tiny bits of dough adhering te . ee Among the Indians the etiquette of bor- rowing is quite as strict as it is among their white brothers. When a red house- keeper borrows a kettle or any other ves- sel to cook in she is expected to return the article of kitchen furniture without wash- ing it, so that the lender may know what has been cooked in the vessel and as toll for the neighbor'y kindness. A lady who had borrowed of an Indian woman in a setilement among the Pueblo Indians re- turned the kettle scoured to @ surprising State of cleanliness, The squaw from whom she borrowed it gave out that the woman Was stingy, and though she was extremely Uberal, she never lived down that imputa- tion, and the Indian name given her was on pressive of what the Yankees call If you want to test your water pipes to see if there is any trace of lead in the wa- ter you are using, drop a few drops of the tincture of cochineal in a dish of. the water. If there is a trace of lead the water will turn blue. If you are fond of milk, and it disagrees With you, it can be easily remedied. Put a teaspoonful of lime water in each glass of milk and you will find that it will correct ali the unpleasant effects. There is no exercise in the world that is 80 perfect ealthy as walking. If your skin feels dy and the pores are cl => end you feel as though you needed a sweat bath,go out and walk rapidly until you are in 8 dripping perspiration, and keep yourself so uniil you can get to your room; tien close the doors and windows, and, not a.lowing bit of draught to strike you, strip and rub yourself until your flesh feels almost raw; Wrap up in something thet will not let you ccol off too rapidly and lie down for ten minutes, You will then get up laughing at the idea that you ever felt il in your life. 7. + If your kitchen floor or any other floor that you do not wish to carpet shows un- sightly cracks try this recipe for them: Take one pound of flour, three quarts of water and a teaspooonful of alum and make a paste of them, cooking well. After re- |moving from the stove, stir into it a lot of poper that ts torn in small pieces and let it Soak, stirring as much as you can. The pa- per should be stirred until ft is all in @ pulp and the mass is so thick that It is aif- ficult to stir longer. Apply it to the cracks —be sure the floor is freshly cleaned first— and force it in, smoothing it off even with the surface. Leave it to dry thoroughly, and you will find that it is more lasting and @ great deal cheaper than putty. You can paint right over it as though it was wood, oF ame tee 3 Pulverized camphor and lard stirred to @ | thick salve make an excellent ointment to use for croup and colds in children. Ie should be applied to the throat and chest, ee ee When people have been ill a long time and confined to the bed they get irritable; jand long ardently for a change. A ham. mock will often prove a boon in such @ ease. It can be strung across a room from a docr frame to the window casing, and may hk even hung right over the bed ore the pacient can slip into it when he se. There are light cotton hammocks are right pretty, and they are soft ag silk to the touch. A hammock adjusts it- self so perfectly to every inch of the hody that it is a wonder that tired women do not try thelr resting properties o! They can be hung low, so that it is no exertion to get out or in, and in they are much cooler to sleep in than a bed and to rest in than @ chair. ; : . + Dry soda applied directly to a burn ease the pain in a few moments. Bind the bilster, with a cloth. $5 on . Hop pillows are said to be an tidote for insomnia. Put them in a tick ust as you would feathers or* hair They should be packed in pretty tight. The dor is really quite pleasant when set used to it. dese” excellent an ‘ if you are troubled w' . * ith heartburn, 1 teblesp: nful of table salt in a wine ic Water. t is said to be quite r dyspeptic people also. One thing — an't hurt them, and that is more than in be sald of most such remedies. es ee want to make your fuchsia bloom and give brilliance to its color put @ small piece of copperas on the top of the soil where it will gradually seep inte the earth with the watering.