Evening Star Newspaper, March 31, 1894, Page 19

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FOR LITTLE FAIRIES Dancing Costumes for Coming May Balls. WORK FOR FOND MOTHERS Becoming Fancy Costumes and How to Make Them FOR THE NEW DANCES Written Exclusively for The Evening Star. HE LADS AND LAS- I sies belonging to our numerous dancing academies are busily engaged in preparing costumes and various other indispensable et ceteras for the bril- Mant May balls, which are such a prominent feature of Washington's spring- time festivities. A number of new and unusually pretty @ances have been introduced during the winter, in consequence of which some de- lighTfully unique Mttle outfits have been manufactured by the clever fingers of proud mothers and accommodating big sisters. C= An Ideal Dairy Maid. The first illustration represents one of three little girls who are to dance “The Dairy Maids’ Drill.” The pretty blouse waist and generously proportioned sleeves are of fine white mull, while the unlined petticoat is of palest green China siik, decorated with lengthwise stripes of bril- Uantly hued ribbons, no two being of the same color. The ribbon is again used (in vivid combinations) on the waist, crossing front and back from shoulders to waist, as shown in the picture. The helt of var- fously toned ribbons, braided together in | four strands, is finished with large rivbon Tosettes, one on each side of the waist center, from which flutter innumerable gay streamers. The large leghorn flat is dyed a brilliant ecarlet and trimmed with «an _ elaborate ‘wreath of field flowers.’ Black silk stock- | ings and silver-buckled patent leathers com- | plete a costume which its utterly irre: ible in its coquettish ensemble. A notice- able feature of all these costumes is the total absence of ballet skirts, which for so long have been popular for these small faterpreters of the terpsichorean art. The skirts now used cling lovingly to the active Uittle bodies, producing an eifect at once graceful and aesthetic. As a rule no petti- oats are worn, but should one seem de- sirable, it must be simply a piece of lace flouncing measuring just the lenzth of the gkirt and sewed in a knife-plea‘iig to the Waistband. Dancer. ‘The second illustration shows a eimple @ostume designed for six little ones who @re to give a version of an oriental dance. The toilet ts developed in opalescent silk, a Deautiful material—in quality like China silk—the color, to all intents and purposes, being white, but as the light and shadow Shifts over it, mingled with the white are the most beautiful and delicate tones of Bale pink, blue, yellow and green, the gei €ral effect being a sort of moonlight radi- ance, which is charming In the extreme. The open blouse waist is drawn loosely in- to a girdle of linked silver, from which work of silver chains «nd bails, ain, full petticoat of silk. The open ruffles which form the sleeves are thickly studded on the inner side with sil- Wer spangles. One deep lace rutfle does @uty as underskirt, and the beautiful litue Outfit is finished by flesh-colored hosiery @nd white kid slippers. 1 scarlet, green, gold and blue. broad band, elaborately durned In bright Large hoop earrings, a bright silk kerchief knotted | about the head, black silk stockings and patent leather slippers complete the toilet. A Youthful Amason. ‘The accompanying sketch represents a young lady who leads a graceful band of | youthful Amazons in a dance which is composed almost entirely of charming marches and graceful posings. The | cuirass is represented by a low, sleeveless | bodice of silk overlaid with a network of silver chains, with full sleeve ruffles of | silver dotted ‘tulle. The petticoat is a full one of white china silk, which is used as a foundation for another skirt, which js a single, rather scant ruffle of the silvered tulle. Over this, falling from the deeply pointed bodice, is a light chain network of silver, from which hang long ball-tipped pendants. With this aze flesh-colored hos- iery, silver-worked slippers and light meta’ shield, helmet and siiver lance. The tout ensemble is more like a glittering vision than anything else I can think of. For the Daisy Quadrille. Eight dear little tots have undertaken to initiate their enthusiastically admiring friends into the mysteries of the Daisy quadrille. The next illustration shows The |Star readers the dainty costume used by the flowez-like dancers. The waist, a mod- erately loose blouse, is of silvery green India silk, made sleeveless and with a mod- erately low square opening; lazge petal- shaped pieces of white velvet are then sewed Into the armholes. A few of these |are wired and slightly curved out and up- ward, so as to imitate the flower, the rounded ends being tinted a delicate’ pink. | The bodice is confined at the waist by nar- | row green ribbons, ending in floating loops and ends on the left side, an enormous Marguerite being made and fastened just in front. The petticoat is made perfectly plain and rather scant, with a decoration | of large daisies as a foot border. The petal- brimmed hat has a softly puffed crown of green silk, while the point of each velvet petal is painted a delicate rose color. With this lovely dress are warn pale green stock- ings and white slippers with dainty rosettes, A Little Minstrel. fhe next picture is that of a bewitching little “street minstrel’ whose audacious French songs are bewilderingly mixed up with equally audacious dances. The bodice is of white silk mull, with large open sleeves reaching midway between elbow and wrist. Around the waist is knotted a yellow silk scarf, gorgeous with glittering embroide: The clinging skirt is of brilliant scarlet silk, a red and yellow bandeau is fastened around the head, while the limbs and feet are incased in red stockings and black kid slippers, laced high with narrow black ribbons. In the carnival of flowers, a new and very attractive feature of these fairy-like enter- tainments, some of the costumes are dainty and sweet enough to suitably clothe an ideal Queen Mab. Robed in Violet. The following sketch illustrates one little girl's idea of how a violet should appear if t and transformed into herself. waist, sleeves and butterfly eply colored flowers on the shoulders, and a sing ae ibe deep sa with a large flower 2 which flutter loops and ends fhe full skirt has an er of violets, arranged a: itch. ‘s .. and undressed kid tes put the finish- ous little toilette. B. Vv. K. Nica ch to the deli THE EVENING STAR, SATURDAY, MAROH 31, 1894-TWENTY PAGES, is non Ere ceneen es eRe Re AY KINDS OF MEN Why Some Are Cranks and Others Again Are Asses. MANY SPECIES OF THE SAME GENUS Yet With All Their Faults We Love Them Still. SOME MADE, OTHERS BORN ‘Written Exclusively for The Evening Si ERE COM OLD Charlie,” said one lounger to another, as they drifted along Cofinecticut avenue in the direction of one of the clubs, “and of all the cranks on earth I really believe Charlie is the great- est.” “He has no brains, then?” said the other lounger. “Brains!” cried the first lounger, “why, man, he is stuffed full of brains. That is what’s the matter with him—that is why he is a crank.” “I thought cranks were usually half- witted,” said the second lounger. “You are ‘way off, then, my boy,” the other rejoined. “Cranks are men who have more than the usual amount of brains, only they will be peculiar and have queer no- tions, different from ours, and that’s why they are cranks.” And the lazy pair con- tinued the discussion as they slowly mount- ed the steps of the club and disappeared within. What club were they entering? You can not be far out of the way, for the way the clubs are located now in Washington makes {t possible for a man to go from one to another on a rainy day without wetting his feet. This arrangement certainly has | its advantages, for it gives a certain air to a particular part of the city and makes it bright and lively. But let us see what Charlie, who was pronounced a crank, looked like. He was clothed in fashionable garments, wore a silk hat, dark striped trousers and a frock coat of moderate length. He carried a cane, and his gloves were carried in his hands. In point of fact, Charlie looked rather like a swell. But as he reached the corner where the club is he deliberately stopped a lady who was passing by and asked her some question, which made her pause. He evidently knew her very well, for, as she endeavored to answer quickly and hurry on, he persisted in asking her another question and thus bringing her to a standstill for a few min- utes. There she stood in the full glare of the club windows, out of which all men are free to gaze and into which it is an unwritten law that ne woman must look. She left Charlie in a very little while, and he smiled to himself and walked oa. Now, | if anybody else had executed this litle feat, had compelled a lady to stand in front of a club for even a second, it would have been considered a rude thing to do, but when Charlie did it it was received as one of the eccentricities of a crank. Why He is Called a Crank. But this is not the main reason why he is called a crank, He has a way of going to bed at $ o'clock in the evening and getting up at 4 o'clock in the morning. He seriously declares he likes to read German, and has actually written essays in German which have been printed in German magazines. | He reads little besides ancient history and fairy tales. He seldom goes to parties, un- less he knows the youngest and prettiest girls are to be there. He never dines out, except with men. He can't play a single game, and he hates to witness a game of football. There is a curious combination of the scholar and the child in him, and he has a sirange fearlessness of public opinion. Thus, in order to support his reputation as a reading man it would be proper for him to attend the entertainments given by old, serious people, but he does not like them. He is really a thorough-paced, out-and-out crank, and it would seem as though it were not at all a bad idea to be one, provided you are able to support the character with- out giving offense. “My dear old boy, I am afraid you made @ terrible fool of yourself in that little af- fair with Susie—.” “Yes,” he replied, without the slightest evidence of having any personal feeling in the matter. “Events proved that I had been @ blanked fool from the very beginning, Oh, well,” he added, with an air of convic- tion, “I have always been a fool in matters ee ton Kind, and I suppose I always will There is something refreshing in seeing a man admit that he has been making a fool of himself, and that he always expects to do so under certain circumstances. When such a man meets a woman who strikes his fancy he goes to see her and very soon real- izes that he is making a fool of himself, But does that make him stop? Not at ail. He keeps at it, plays the part of a fool to the end, admits it when you accuse him of it and knows it all the time. He considers it, however, as a part of his nature, and that there is no sense in quarreling with it. He might as well quarrel with the shape of his nose or the color of his hair. This species of foolishness usually ends in matri- mony, and after that a man can be as wise as he chooses, for if he allows women to bother him, he is not a fool at all,but some- thing a great deal werse. A Wide Difference. Yet the man who makes a fool of him- self is not necessary without brains. There can be no doubt that Disraeli made a fool of himself when he made that ridiculous first speech in the house of commons, which made everybody laugh at him. There is no doubt that Peter the Great was an un- usual fool when he got so drunk at his feasts; that Henry Clay was a fool to write his famous Texas letter, and so on through half or more of the greatest men that have ever lived. But there is a great difference between making a fool of yours and be- ing simply a fool. When simply that he is a fool, you have classif him forever as a hopeless case. A fool may be a crank and a crank may be a fool, but a crank may be a genius also, whereas a fool is one hopelessly without brains. Anybody who expects a fool to do anything well does not know the first principle of judging the sp Unless it is some physical feat that is accomplished without the slightest display of judgment a fool is bound to do it badly. There was once a very outspoken school teacher to whom a gentleman put his son. He ex- plained that the boy ought to have some- thing in him and that he would live to sce it brought out. After a few months he went to the schoolmaster. “Well,” he said, “how does Henry get along?” ‘Not very well, I regret to say,” said the schoolmaster. “There's something in that boy, however, it ge can only bring it out,” the father said. “TI have brought it out,” said the teacher. “What is it?” “Why, he is a fool, that’s all.” It is needless to say that the father took the boy to another school, where he dem- onstrated no talent, except for running, which showed only that he had fine muscles and lungs. Yet it must not be supposed that fools are unpopular, for they are not. They may be very good-natured, and in- deed generally are so. It is, moreover, Pleasant for you to feel that you know more than your companion does, and for that reason it is a common sight to see a man who is not a fool on intimate terms with fools. Although Carlisle said that most of the population of England was composed of fools, the remark was a gross exaggeration, for of genuine, downright fools there are not many in the world. Men who do foolish things comprise a vast ma- jority of the human race, cranks are nu- merous enough, but fools are not numerous. When One is an Ass. Now, an ass is not necessarily a fool at all. The former is rather a bore to the rest of mankind and is not infrequently obnoxious in one’s sight, but he muy have brains, and some youngsters who are pro- nounced asses afterward develop into very respectable, sensible citizens. “What do you think of Chubleigh?” the writer asked a gentleman the other day. Suess any one of four or five and you will | “He is an ass,” w: “Why?” “Because he wears a single-barreled eye glass, because he calls a dog a ‘darg,’ be- cause he says ‘Ba Jove’ and ‘pawstively,’ use he spends all his money on his clothes and lies awake at night thinking what he will wear the next day, because he goes to Europe every year and has never traveled anywhere in America, because—” and he gasped for breath, overwhelmed with the variety of reasons for ‘calling Chubleigh an ass. Yet Chubleigh speaks five foreign lan- has degrees from two or three uni- versities, including one in Murope, and knows a great deal more than people give him the credit of knowing. Yet he dresses like an ass, looks like one, talks like cne, acts like one, and must necessarily be one, But he is no fool at all, and perhaps when he becomes older he will settle down and be less of a dude, for a dude is always an ass, although a man can be an ass without being a dude. To dress and act the chur- acter of a dude consistently is a thing no man can do and lay claim to being a sen- sible man. Yet an ass may not be fond of clothes at all and may show what he is by something entirely different. Justice to a Worthy Animal. » It is a great mistake to suppose that a man who is an ass partakes in any way of the qualities of the quadruped that bears the same designation. The latter is a small, unsightly beast of burden, slow, un- interesting and so abominably lazy and stubborn that it is incessantly beaten whenever it is either driven or ridden. Yet among animals there are few that have as much brains as asses have. They can be taught tricks easily, although the chances are that they will not take the trouble to perform what they have learned. They have no affection for mankind and considering how hardly men use them this is not strange. From their birth to their death they are incessantly ill-used and frequently underfed. It is hard to con- ceive of anything as unattractive as the life of an ass. Now, originally doubtless the human being was called an ass cause he was supposed to resemble the quadruped in his characteristics, but this has long since been changed. If you wish to describe a stupid, stubborn man you call him a mule, not an ass. The human ass need not be stubborn at all, need not be ugly, need not be stupid, and so it has come about that the word has entirely sep- arated from its origin and has now a dis- tinct meaning of its own. Cranks, fools and asses all suffer a@ ce! tain degree of mitigation in their qualiites if they get married. If a wife objects to the peculiarities which as a bachelor her husband found no one quarreled with she is pretty sure to have them suppressed; if she realizes that her husband is a fool she may guard him carefully and by thinking for him make him act tolerably intelli- gently; if he is an ass she may object to it and force him to behave himself. ——— A CHILD IN COMFORT. the simple reply. A Frock That a Little One Can Be Care Free In. A child that grows up in the city loses half the sweetness of life. Its whole idea of area is compassed by the back yard fence, and its studies of nature are limited to a patch of slowly starving grass and a square of blue sky, except on those rare occasions when somebody dresses it up in its best raiment to take it to one of the parks. There one would think that it might at last know the exquisite joy of burying its feet in the cool green grass and lay its face against the softly carpeted earth to listen to the tiny sounds made by the insect world. Not so, however; “keep off the grass” signs, which it cannot read, but has learned to fear as it does the Begie man of the stories told it at night, store it in the face, and “keep out of the dirt” admonishes the nurse if it tries to play on the hard walks, till going to the park be- comes a burden, like everything else. Poor little ones. It is small fun that they get out of life these days. One who has kuown the freedom of a childhood in the country feels the utmost sympathy for them as they sit in prim rows on the hard benches, their starched and over-trimmed white dresses standing out like the skirts of a ballet dancer and the embroidery scratch- So Comfortable. ing into uncontrollable irritation their ten- der necks and wrists. Why will mothers torture their little children so? A child couldn’t play “ring around a rosy” in such a frock, because it won't fill out with the air right, and that would spoil half the fun. And it wouldn't if it could, because it would be afraid to go home with grass stains on its frock and wrinkles in its ab- surd sas Women whose fretting has faded their charm should remember that childhood needs no artificial aid to make it sweet. While they need fine clothes and frizzes and powder to conceal sallow skin, their little children are most charming when free from ail artificial embellish- ments. Childhood is its own best beauty. Make childhood comfortable and it will be happy and sweet. Now, here is a frock that a child can be comfortable in. Three yards of gingham, a spool of thread and nimble fingers will make it in an hour. It costs but S cents a yard, and one for each day in the week will cost altogether less than one of the stiffly starched and em- broidered white frocks that a child natur- ally hates. The six ginghams—which must never be starched—will wear like sole leather, and they are not d to wash; they hold their color well, mply made, a less trouble to iron, the whole six of them, than the one white dres: nd, oh, omfort of them! Why, some children y hectored into ill health in the summer through caring for their smart cloth There is one thing that they do better in England than they do in this country, Childhood is a period of symple care-fri existence. The little ones are dressed plain- ly in gingham and print for everyday wear and modest untrimmed white for Sunday. The children of royalty are dressed more plainly than the children of the middle class people of this country, Lees An Obscure Calculation. From the Chicago Inter Qecat “Catchon is struggling with a very heavy probler nap—“What is it?” Je’s trying to figure out whether he's a member of the 400.” Snap—‘Well, can’t he?” “No; he doesn’t know whether it should be worked by addition or subtraction.” Seo ‘Passing the Ha From Puck. How to Recognize It. From the Chicago Record. Nedders—“What's a bon mot?” Slowitz—Something you always think of after it's too late to say it.” and, being so | WELL-DRESSED MEN They Get the Latest Ideas of the Styles From London, CHECKED SUITS AND SHIRTS THE THING A Cutaway Coat That is Really Truly Smart. A REEF TAKEN IN COATS UERICAN CUS- tomers of English tailors have already feceived the usual bunches of cloths which show patterns that will be worn this summer by the right sort of people over there. These goods are practically all checked this year, the New York Sun states, and the ma- jority are dark in color. One rarely sees in England the very light suits which we wear here. We look to England for our style in cloths and cuts. An Englishman who aims to be well dressed wears in the country only the suits which we know as “sacks,” or cuta- way suits, but we take our ideas of pat- terns and styles from them. ‘The checks this summer are in shades of brown and dark blue, relieved and defined by threads of lighter color, The check is often defined by lines from one and a half to two inches apart, so that in small sam- ples the check shows very little. It is large and well defined, however, being saved from conspicuousness only by the neutral tints of the colors of these new cloths. The new- est of them are loosely woven, and the threads are coarse and thick, and the weav- ing is of the style technically Known as “honeycomb.” These goods are Scotch in make and are practically a novelty. They Cutaway. aed differ from the familiar Scotch tweeds in having rather a smooth finish. The samples that have reached this country run in browns, dark blues, grays and almost steel, but the colors are neutral in tone, and so thoroughly blended that one gets no im- Pression of a distinct pattern. The same goods has been sent over in solid colors. It comes in black and blue, coarsely woven, and intended for sack coats or double- breasted blue coats. In these colors it can- not be recommended. The objection to the goods at best is its tendency to “pull,” as tailors express it. A coat of this gcods when very constantly worn is likely to lose its shape within a short time. The trousers are certain to, and while the new goods is probably the most fashionable thing men can get for summer wear, it is not to be Top Cont. recommended to anybody who proposes to buy only one suit. The black cannot be recommmended for the same reason, for the effect of the new weave is lost in the solid color, and the new style of texture is hardly noticeable. The blue is especially adapted, however, to double-breasted coats, as it gives the needed roughness to such a gar- ment. Checks All the Go. Practically all the cloths this summer will be checked, even goods in which any pat- tern is difficult to trace chow after inspec- tion a small check outlined by a thread of red or blue or some color which tones with the prevailing shades in the pattern. Even the cloths from which the trade will make what are known as “trouserings” show the same invariable tendency to checks. Some- times there is a thin stripe of color, but it is never pronounced enough to change the general effect, which is always that of an undefined check. inglish Overdoing. As usual we shall wear this summer what are known as “sack” and “cutaway” coats. The coats in the former shape will be somewhat longer than they were, but not extreme. London tailors show a ten- dency to shape these coats to the figure more than they have done of late, but not in the exaggerated way which was fash- fonable several years ago. The best London men are making them of medium length, not as short as they were several years ago, ror as long as those some of the tailors have tried this winter. ‘The skirt should be rather full, and the coat made with three buttons, The trousers present a grace- ful mean to an exaggerated fullness and narrowness, All of them are shaped to the leg, growing narrower toward the boot. As to Colored Shirts. It is often said that a man’s shirt ts the real measure of his success in dressing. A well-fitting shirt is elementary and about the most important feature of a man’s Gress. A shirt with the upper side longer than the lower, which causes it to roll out, is something impossible for a well-dressed man. After he has learned how to wear none but well-fitting shirts, a man can af- ford to look at their style and color, As The New Collar. usual, colored shirts will be popular, and the best makers show them with stripes running up and down. The latest brought over from London are in narrow stripes of dark blue or red clos? together, but each broad enough to be plainly defined They have the same designs in other col- ors, and some of them with rather wider Spaces between the stri show the three colors, red, white and blue, together. Some made for country wear have turned- down collars of the same goods, the stripes running around the collar. Others have the high standing collar, which already threat- ens to be worn here very generally this summer. They are practically the only thing In men’s fashions that is decidedly new. Some few were seen here last year, but the fashion has had a hard struggle, although it comes to us with the best Lon- don backing. These collars are as high as the ordinary standing collar, but are turn- ed over until one side is as deep as the The New Sack Coat. other. They have been growing steadily in popularity during the winter, although the style is very much better adapted to sum- mer wear. Some men wore them with frock coats during the winter, and a few were seen at dances, but this seems hardly per- missible. They are adapted to informal wear, for which winter life gives few oppor- tunities. They look best when worn with butterfly tie, although they are worn with a four-in-hand, as well as the broad Ascot scarf. Spring gloves for men are almost as varied in shade as those that women wear. For afternoon use the pale gray and tan suede are the newest. The kid is light in weight, and without the heavy stitching that has been worn lately. They have simply three lines of thin stitching on the back. The thick white dogskin glove that Frenchmen wear in the afternoon is seen occasionally here on riders in the park. Colored handkerchiefs had a renaissance in London last winter which extended to this country, and has exhibited vigor enough to last into the spring. They are worn, how- ever, only with a checked or colored suit, and never with a frock coat. The most colored of them all show a narrow band of solid color or a few colored figures along the four edges. Fine linen or silk go with full dress, whether it be in the afternoon or evening. Flannels, Hats and Ties. The flannels now are usually in pale brown and gray checks, of a cooler ma- terial than the old suits were made, and far more durable in the matter of wear They require as much skill in the making as an ordinary suit, and cost almost as much, but they are entirely suitable for city wear on the warmest summer day. There was a revolt last summer against the extremely broad-brimmed straw hats which had been worn for the two preced- ing years. The indications are that this year crowns will go up in height and the brims become much narrower. Summer neckwear is ‘usually only a change from silk and satin to pongees and cambrit. The form of it changes little. The Ascot, butterfly and four-in-hand ties are reproduced in pongees, cheviots and cambric. In the cotton goods they come in dainty colors, and the pongees show in- variable poll dots, as popular as ever, with an endless combination of white and red figures on a dark blue ground. Noth- ing is better form now than the designs in red, yellow and blue, which are copied from Indian silks. In the cambric ties, which are most all made to be worn in the form of a butterfly, are blues, reds and pinks, which are always good style. The pale greens and heliotropes ought to be avoided. The form of scarf worn so much for the last two years, which consisted of a small four-in-hand tightly tied with the broad ends stretched ouf, is on the down- ward career. The old style Ascot, tied flat, without any puff, is rapidly returning to favor among well-dressed men, who, in fact, never entirely abandoned it. The Sanctioned Cutaway Frock. The accompanying illustration of the semi-formal cutaway is done in the per- sonality of a contemporaneous youag club man, who gets the coat because he knows what it is and knows it is right. ample that he wears, says the New York Herald, has the correct lines of styles as to length, detail and finish, particularly as to the skirt being moderated from the English model, and falls well below the knee, touching the top cf the calf, thus securing the essential effect of greater length from the waist line down. The Van Gilder semi-formal cutaway is the one you see, and it is a fact that the line of the waist line is on an exact line with the bottom of the waistcoat in front. Here is the essential detail that gives a smartness and perfect balance to the gar- ment, which is only worn by the Van Gilder type until the followers of the ad- vance fashion get on to it. The smartest coat of the year was the one worn by several of the discerning swells at the horse show. It was in a sufficiency of length over the knee, but not overdone, and it has a full roomsome hang. The collar was of the matezial, rounding down in the middle of the back to an ample three inches, and the lapel was not so low down as the Londoners have it. It was a coat for cold weather, and showed the scarfing at just the right amount. The drawing herewith is of the genial Van Gilder, who has good clothes and knows how and when to wear them. ee Still on the Stage. ‘They are still at it in Brazil.” ‘It be pretty near time for @ souvenir performance.” The ex-| THE SPRING GOWN In Fact, the Hat and Gloves and the Entire Costume. SOME SMART TOILETS OF TOMORROW The Skirts Expand and the Bonnets Are Larger. SUGGESTIONS FOR SPRING Written Exclusively for The Evening Star, "(2 EXACT RELA- tionship between Eas- ter and new gowns would be hard to frace, but it seems to be firmly established. If you don't believe it, just remember that tomorrow the “left over” Easter gowns will be out in force, then station yourself where you can see the attendants at church, And if you do not see & new gown, or an old one made over to look like a new one on every oth- er woman, you may be sure that the jtimes are out of joint some way. How | are you to know that the gowns are new? Well, if the woman hurries through the gorgeous throng and rushes off home with- cut stopping to visit with some of her friends on the church steps, you can be Pretty sure that she has not even a made- over gown to display. If she Stops often and is particularly gracious, as though she might be at peace with all the world, then you can set {t down that she has a new gown, handsomely made, with new boots, new bonnet, new gloves, and—well, no, not & new heart; it is the same heart that lov- ed pretty gowns last year, and the year be- fore, and the same woman's heart that bas been loving pretty things since time began and the Creator dressed the flowers up to teach mankind how to use His lovely gifts, And you will be obliged to confess that the hints given by the blossoms have been well received, and some will assert that they have been improved upon. The new styles are not a pronounced des Parture from those that have prevailed all winter, except, perhaps, in the matter of overskirts. There was some attempt te simulate the overskirt, by adjusting trim- ming, but most women were hoping that the fancy for it was ephemeral, as they ¢o rot relish the prospect of adding more Weight to their skirts. The overskirt has come, however, and will be out in force to- morrow. It will have many sizes. and vagaries generally. It will be and plain on some gowns, opening on one over a skirt of contrasting material, an will be caught together with big bows ribbon. Big bows of ribbon are almost in- Gespensable on hat, gown and wrap. On others the overskirt will hang full around, with peplum points in front ai back. In some cases it will be a plain skirt, seemingiy, until.you get around on the other side, when it will be found caught up with a button, or a ribbon bow with a bit of bright skirt showing below. Some of the fetching ones worn by the winter's aamtentas will have a full flounce of lace around them, and they will be ca Quite high on the sidex ba ae Style of the New Skirts. Most of the new ress skirts are made Quite flaring at the bottom, but have no side gore seams. The fullness will all be at the back of the gown, and at the bottom of it, apparently; there will not be much trim- ming on the bottoms of the street dresses, for spring wear. Unless there is an over- skirt, real or simulated, the skirt will in smooth, plain fashion to the ground, will be a little longer than predicted earlier in the season. They do not have any symp- tom of a train, however. The beauty of @ skirt like that lies in the “set” of it. You must simply throw your whoie soul into the fashioning of it to make it cess, The sleeves of these gowns might be Spoken of in the comparative degree, ag big, bigger, biggest. The ultra smart gown Will be “sleeved” in the superiative degree, The puffs of it will drep toward the elbow, Everything points now to a revival in effect of the long-shouldered waist. It is only simulated as yet by a wide bertha effect, it will hardiy go any farther, for no sensi ble woman will submit to have her arms Pinioned to her side, as they would be if that horrid fashion were to come for a fact. The sleeves at that time were so Ught that a woman could not wear a dress a half a dozen times before the waist would be torn straight across under the arm. While skirts are plain, the bodices are the reverse. If there is a fantasy in trim- ming that the modistes have not applied to waists in making up Easter gotvns it is be- cause the same has not been brought to the notice of the prospective wearer. Ruffles and lace, puffs and embroidery,plaits, folds, silk and chiffon, some one of them or @ con- glomeration of all will ap perhaps a single waist tomorrow; and aist will look pretty, too. There be an astonish- ing display of buttons. This is to be @ button season, and there are some very, beautiful ones shown in the shops, Gloves to Match. The new gloves that will appear tomory row will not differ from those that have been worn all winter, only that they will be of lighter shades. Tans, from a dark cream to a decided brown, will be the favor- ite color. A few of the ox blood reds will appear, and many of the hand coverings will match the suits worn, a pretty fashion that is well liked by good dressers. Not many white gloves will appear till later in the season. A woman of dainty tastes rather shrinks from the white glove that is not exquisitely clean. It is quite im- possible to wear white gloves with a dark dress and not have them show discolora- tion in a very few moments. Then, too, the white glove makes the hand look un- deniably larger, and no woman likes that; on the whole, most women who lay claim to good taste in gowning prefer to leave the white glove for evening wear and to put on in the summer with light cotton and silk gowns. Then they wisely sel the chamois glove that can be washed ev \ day in the week without spoiling the set of it, ‘The Easter bonnet is a thing fearfully and wonderfully made. it is built out of lace and flowers, feathers and ribbon, vith some velvet, and an addition of any kin of jet that seems to come handy cae we man wiil wear a bonnet to match her gown of changeable heliotrope shades, that is simply a gem, and is at the same time a reminder of her trip to the world's fair. The foundation of this wonderful bonnet is a band of lilac velvet, fashioned to fit the head. Over this is laid a string of ame- thysts and moonstones, wh looking fellow at a bazaar in her came from some unpronounc in Turkey. The band figures oy asa pale ot bracelets, In the frént of this bonnet is a bow. It ought to be spelled vi capital “B,” for it is the piece de pe reli this abbreviated confection. lit is of Iilac velvet, and ir distinctly as- sertive in size and st Along the center lof it is a band of bea uninformed wor call them beads, b | ow cat: tnis bend is an embroidery tm | exquisite design, of tigy turquoise and pink coral beads on cloth of gold, and it came from far awey Sy-ia. s are not as smallas they have been for some seasons |back, and the trimming piled on them makes them look larger yet. Large hats, with flower gardens and ostrich farms om them, will be worn later in the seasong tomorrow chere will be a few large hata, ‘The veil is indispensable with the bonnet, It is usually of black net, with a few dots jon it. The heavy meshed nets are worn by | some, but they are not pretty, and are very |injurious to the eyes. On the large hats \they will not be worn. A woman with a jlarge hat and a veil drawn over it looks | 1. like a bird cage done up in mosquito nete ting. LWwB —— A Comfort. $ refused you? Well, ¥ | wouldn't care. She is a thoughtless thing | and doesn’t know her own mind.” “That's so? Oh, well, if she doesn’t kn her mind perhaps I ought not mind her no. a What She Keeps. From the Chicago Inter-Ocern. Miss Twe at Mrs, c ~ Chirp

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