Evening Star Newspaper, September 23, 1893, Page 7

THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D. C, SATURDAY. SEPTEMBER 23, 1893—SIXTEEN PAGES. THE LATEST MODES. The Regulations as to Basques, Waists and Bodices in Costumes. RETURN OF THE OVERSKIRT. illustrations of Some of Dame Fashion’s Recent Decrees. POPULARITY OF MAGENTA. | ——— Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, Sept. 22, 1893. ESPITE THE FACT that skirts are or- dered to be tight at the hips it should make no difference, for we shall have fold and fullness just the same if we want them from the waist. Coat skirts are made very wide and full at the back, hanging in organ-pipe folds. [LS about these " flary 8% little coats scalloping The basque is almost always made posttl- ton back, or in some one of the masculine cuts which does not suit the feminine fig- ure, emphasizing ungracefully as it does the wider hips of woman. The difference between the round waist and the basque is that the latter shows some part of it below the waist line. A bodice, properly speak- ing, extends from the waist line to the arms; it does not include sleeves and fre- e ently does not include armholes. The Prettiest basques are those merely a circular addition to a round waist, but those with continuous breadths extend- below the waist line are again in favor. ‘The part below the waist is made full A hipped woman must avoid this effect. does seem as if woman will not from that trying horizontal hips. No beauty is added to figure by cutting {t thus in half, tout one is made unspeakable. For short a time were women content to waists and confine circular trimming ‘o the space from foot to knee skirt! Already we are putting about the hips, of making skirts to our waists and accomplishing the line in that way. When will fashion adopt for her motto, “Let well enough alone?” ‘Alas! that swered. Never. In the initial flustration is shown effect- ively the prettiest of these two methods of adornment. Hi i is easily an- Here the skirt of lavender The Overskirts Beginning. The second and third illustrations are alike in one respect, which is that they show the early developments which point toward the return of the overskirt. This, surely, is another unwished-for visitation. But what else ts signified by the elaborate trimmings on skirts at and just below the just such ornamentation as is seen these two pictures, and by the double effects now so eagerly seized upon. In the dinner toilet of the second picture the material ts white open-work muslin. with half-inch stripes of white and pink, the whole strewn with hand-embroidered gots, The Rarder te pink. with fine a es. The skirt is In two parts, a upper half and a circular lower one. The seam where both are joined is hidden by & band of lace underlined with pink satin and a frill of lace. With the toflet is worn fichu collar, pointed at the waist in front back and gathered in a standing col- It is edged with lace insertion and a frill put on straight, like that on the Through the thin muslin ts seen tho decollete of the bodice. foundation skirt of the handsome the third picture is made of taffeta contains four breadths with extra gores je bottom to give the necessary three half yards of width. Over this skirt two skirts of grayish green silk mus- cut in the same style as the foundation Ea | er Starting Point. skirt, and each finished with two tiny frills of silk and hemstitched edge, the upper one sewed on with a small head. Above this/| comes a plain band of lace, the pointed edge | toward the top. The belt of folded silk in| contrasting shade is whaleboned, widens | the back as in front, and hooks invisibly at the side. The round yoke and standing collar are of point d’esprit lace lined with | the green silk, and the yoke {s finished with three narrow frills similar to those on the| skirt and a ruffle of point lace. The sleeves | have very full puffs trimmed with two rows | of frills In groups of three, and the long | ts slightly gathered tn the seam. Women stood admirabiy the rush upon hem of bright green. yellow and imperial seple, ard some murmured thankfully that | But now | mong the | trousseaus are magenta gowns. senlus has discovered that light blue, | last they were spared magenta s upon them. Conspicuous | ness until | there was Quaker propriety for all that. used in combination with it, takes the curse off magenta, as it were, and really makes an artistic combination. Have you ever no- ticed the use the skillful modiste makes of tion accomplished, cry that no one but a ge- nius could do it and that it defies copying. ‘With Zouave Effect in Guipure. Frequently this is because you fail to note the little thread of black that has been used, the narrow row of jetted insertion that congects the yellow on one side with the utterly impossible green, for instance, on the other. Sometimes it is a tiny row of frilled narrow velvet, again just a row of jet and nothing more, but the black is always there. That means that the real artist of these matters considers the lilies of the field, the line of the horizon, the effects of sunset and so on. There she finds black, some- times gray, and now and again white serv- ing in striking combinations, and being a milliner or a dressmaker of a daring mind she “goes and does it” in a bonnet, or a vest. Then women wonder how she ever thought of it. Quite a new style of bodice is that shown in the next picture and one very prettily suited for morning wear. It is sketched in black and yellow Pekin, the black stri being strewn with oval yellow spots. The bodice drapéry crosses in front in Empire style and is set off with guipure in zouave Jacket form. This simulated zouave is very effective, especially when costly laces are employed, but inexpensive and pretty ones are always to be found by searching. The harrow pointed waistband makes a pretty fintsh and 1s particularly well adapted to the cross-over or surplice bodices now so much worn. The latter are not suited to women of full figure, but a half hour's ob- servation on the streets almost any day will disclose a dozen large women in surplice waists, and that means twelve mistakes, for im each and every case width and rotundity are magnified unpleasantly. narrower bias fold of the velvet. The bod- ice has a round yoke of strawberry silk covered with black lace and finished with bretelles of lace headed by a bias velvet band. Both of these dresses are very hand- some models. Many belt effects have attachment to fall over the hips, and usually these pieces are cut into “battlement’ squares, which are sometimes edged with a tiny frill. In other words, a little while ago belts were elabo- rated downward, then they were turned upside down and worn reaching up under the arms, while now they go both ways. What next? ges Re SIRE AN EVENING GOW: Thin Women Will Rise Up to Call the Designer of It Blew: “What stuff wilt thou have a gown of?” quoth Falstaff to his Doll. Much the same says fashion nowadays to the dames who fo searching for wherewitha, they may be clothed at dinners and swell evening func- tions. Hardly ever before was there such latitude—it ts in fact a good deal like the captain's reckoning, which had “stepped over to include the longitude.” All the family of silks from stand-alone brocades to mousseline de sole, crepons, crepelines, crepes de chines, half a hundred fine tex- tures in soft sheer wool, to say nothing of lace gauze net and array of muslins and spangled stuffs, more gorgeous than the rainbow. It 1s truly an embarrassment of riches which heaps the counters, crowds the show rooms of the swagger gownmake-s— from one of which came the garment pic- tured here. A famous beauty, known through two continents, wore it when she had her three dearest foes to outshine. The stuff was a wonderful brocade, in tones of silvery green and the softest shell pink run- ning now and again into a suggestion of cream yellow. It was much too handsome to be marred with trimming. The perfectly cut trained skirt, lined inside with rich pink silk, had goffered rufites of green, pink and yellow, set inside, one above the other. Above the hem, under the very edge, was a shell plaiting of old yellow lace, so fine and rich that it seemed positively sinful thus to risk its destruction. ‘The bodice had the same exquisite plain- the end of it was reached. Sleeves were conspicuously absent—there was the merest strap over the shoulder. ‘The neck was very low back and front, but A fali of rare old lace edged the neck and fell over the shoulder. Inside it shot gauze in the colors of the gown stuff was drawn high about the throat, shaped to a modest ¥ back and front and finished with a deeper frill of the same old lace. A frame of opals about with small diamonds harmonized wonderfully with the tones of this costume, which by wax lights looked to have been shaped of the rainbow and bespangled with morning sun —_—_—_-oo____ Rev. Benigno Iriarte, rector of the Cole- gio de Belen, at Havana, died yesterday from yellow fever. A NEW TWEED GOWN. No End Stylish on a Slender Woman, but if You Are Fat— To this complexion has it come at last— tweed, refuge of the sensible, the mainstay of her who has @ feeling for simplicity and style, has gone and got itself trigged up with satin and beads and things till com- mon sense would not know it if they met Square in the road. Notwithstanding, much may be said on the other side. For the tweed is a delicately cloudy black and white check, the satin black as a crow and a heap glossier. It is put in cross-way bands back. and front of the bodice, and edges narrowly the skirt and the bottom of the coat. Everywhere it fs finished with a line of the finest jet— so fine, indeed, that it sparkles like the eyes of a gnome. Altogether, the costume ts wonderfully fetching, especially when worn by an over-mature siren who is beginning to regret that she was not conveniently born a widow. Thus garbed she has all the outward and visible signs of that thrice- fascinating estate, along with the immense consolation of feeling herself very much comme fl faut. And what that consolation is may be guessed from the story of the woman who said the only time she ever felt thoroughly at peace with God and man was when she was conscious of being thoroughly well dressed. Beyond doubt it is a mighty comforting reflection—that of feeling yourself at all points above and beyond criticism. There is but one possible added element of felicity, to wit, namely, that there shall be plenty of other women handy “to look and dle.” That is supposing the dress wearer to be a mer> normal woman with like passions unto the rest of her kind. Of course, if she goes in for advanced womanhood, with the capitals. she would almost rather give up her hopes of suffrance and office holding than confess to such old-fashioned frivolity. It’s 80 deadly inconsistent, you see, with her fine frenzy for “equal ‘rights, equal privileges, equal pantaloons.” But then a woman likely to put on this well-cut rig is not likely to train under that banner. Favor may be deceitful and beauty vain, but while the fear of ugliness abides with a woman she has at least an even chance to keep strictly inside the woman's kingdom. err A LA MODE D’ESPAGNE. it My Lady Does Not Necessarily Walk Spanish When She Puts It On. Princesses come, but fashion lingers even unto the third and fourth season. We had the royal and gracious Eulalia with our spring flowers. Now that autumn afflic- tions are full upon us—frost, cyclones, the flood of extra. session oratory—here comes over sea'a Spanish costume warranted to make each of our republican princesses out dazzle royalty’s self. Yet ‘tis no such splen- did matter after all—just a garment of slate gray cloth, very rich and soft, combined with rich black velvet and accented with narrow black tubular braid. It is cut with the true Mephisto collar and Figaro lapel, the distinguishing features are the simu- lated pointed vest in front and the very moderate velvet arm puffs, which are let mae eeee tight cloth sleeves well above the it is said the Duke of York so concerns himself with women’s gear that he has begged his new wife to wear no more huge sleeves, and that she has con- sented with all the smiling patience of a modern Griselda. No doubt she has much the same sunny complaisance as her royal mother, who, maugre her flesh and her semi-royal Dutch spouse, has long been the most popular member of the house of Brunswick. Yet “fat Molly” has a temper of her own, and is not, it is sald, above swearing roundly upon occasions, particu- larly when she is undergoing the ordeal of fitting, which is a work of time and pins, owing to the royal amplitude. tee ABOUT WATER. Its Great Value as a Medicinal Agent Recuperator. The human body is constantly undergoing tissue change. Worn-out particles are cast aside and eliminated from the system, while the new are ever being formed, from the inception of life to its close. Water has the power of increasing these tissue changes, which multiplies the waste products, but at the same time they are re- newed by its agency, giving rise to in- creased appetite, which in turn provides fresh nutriment. Persons but little accus- tomed to drinking water are liable to have the waste products formed faster than they are removed. Any obstruction to the free working of natural laws at once pro- duces disease, which, if once firmly seated, requires both time and money to cure. People accustomed to rise in the morning weak and languid will find the cause in the imperfect secretion of wastés, which many times may be remedied by drinking a full tumbler of water before retiring. T his very materially assists in the process during the night and leaves the tissues fresh and strong, ready for the active work of the day. Hot water is one of our best remedial agents. A hot bath on going to bed, even in the hot nights of summer, {s a better reliever of insomnia than many drugs. Inflamed parts will subside under the con- tinual poulticing of real hot water. Very hot water, as we all know, prompt checker of bleeding, besides, if it ts clean, as it should ge, it aids in ster- ilizing wounds. ee ee An Incomplete Sale. From Puck. Mrs. Rifter—“I ordered a piece of dress here yesterday, and I wish to know if jt has been cut yet.” Floor Walker (after investigation)—"“"No, ma'am, it has not; the salesman sald you hadn't been in yet to change your mind,” a On ‘Thursday, at Fresno, Cal., O'Vincent, the ‘wife murderer, tenced tobe hanged October ¥ Dr. F. AGE OF PUBLIC MEN.| Senator Morrill the Gladstone of the American Congress, ONLY SIX SENATORS OVER SEVENTY. Some Active Old Men Who Have Retired From Public Life. SUPREME COURT LONGEVITY. USTIN S. MORRILL of Vermont is the “Grand Old Man” of the American Con- gress. He was born on the 14th day of 2 April, 1810, and he is ical Ufe does not seem to have a wearing effect on them. There are many instances in the history of the country of statesmen pire have remained in active political life after most interesting of these at the day is that of Allen G. Thurman of Ohio, who was @ leading candidate for the Presidency in the Chicago convention of 18% and re- cetved the vote of the Ohio delegation. Mr. ‘Thurman was seventy-one. When he was nominated for the Vice Presidency at St. Louis he was seventy-five years old. He is living now at Columbus, though he has vanished from public attention. “How soon we are forgot, was well illustrated at the democratic national convention of last year, when the intelligent decorator in charge of the convention hall put Mr. Thurman's portrait among those of the “distinguished dead.” Only a few days ago a controversy arose in the Washington office of a Cincin- nati newspaper over the question whether Mr. Thurman was alive or not, and, an ap- peal being made to the Cincinnati office, the reply came back that Mr. Thurman died two years ago. Nevertheless Mr. Thurman {s very much alive, though he takes no active part in politics today. Supreme Court Longevity. The Supreme Court furnishes some inter- esting instances of active longevity. Jus- tice Blatchford, who died recently, was seventy-three years old; but he was in ac- still in vigorous pos- session of his mental faculties, and in good health physically. Mr. Morrill, with his eighty-three years, overtops the mem- bers of both houses, and he exceeds the average age of members of the Senate by more than twenty-five years. But the Senate average has been brought down in recent years by the elec- tion of such giddy youngsters as Irby of South Carolina and Kyle of South Dakota, who are only thirty-nine years old; by ‘White of Kansas, who is forty; by Dubois of Idaho, who is forty-two, and by Lodge of Massachusetts, who is forty-three years of age. Massachusetts furnishes a strong age contrast. One of its Senators is forty- three and the other sixty-seven years old. ‘The difference between the Vermont Sena- tors is not so great. Mr. Proctor is only twenty-one years younger than his col- league. Mr. Wolcott is eighteen years younger than his associate, Mr. Teller of Colorado, Mr. McPherson of New Jersey is nineteen years younger than Mr. Smith. There is twenty-two years difference in the ages of Mr. Brice and Mr. Sherman of Ohio. Mr. Butler of South Carolina is eighteen years older than Mr. Irby. Mr. Camden is nineteen years older than the other West Virginia Senator, Mr. .Faulk- ner. And Mr. Hunton of’ Virginia is twenty-one years the senior of Mr. Daniel. There are only five men in the Senate who are more than seventy years of age. Mr. Morrill heads the list with eighty-three years. Mr. Palmer of Illinois comes next with seventy-six. Mr. Harris of Tennes- see is seventy-five years old. Mr. Pugit of Alabama is seventy-three. Mr. Sherman seventy years old on the 10th of last Mr. Hunton of Virginia will be sev- enty on the 23d of this month. There are several Senators who approximate seventy years. Mr. Morgan of Alabama and Mr. Colquitt of Georgia are sixty-nine. Mr, Hoar of Massachusetts and Mr. George of Mississippi are sixty-seven years old, The average age of Senators is about 681-2 years. Have Left the Senate. Death and resignation have deprived the Senate of several old men within a few years. Philetus Sawyer of Wisconsin was seventy-seven years old when an unappre- clative legislature retired him to private life. Senator Wade Hampton, who was a victim of the populist movement in South Carolina three years ago, was seventy-five years old at the time of his retirement. Henry B. Payne of Ohio, who was Mr. Brice’s predecessor, was only eight months younger than Mr. Morrill. Mr. Dawes, who declined re-election to the Senate,’ was seventy-seven years old when he retired. Ell Saulsbury of Delaware, who was buried under the republican landsiide five years &g0, Was seventy-two years old at that time. Senator Evarts of New York was seventy-three years oid when he gave up his seat in the Senate to Mr. Hill. Mr. Reagan of Texas, who retired from the Senate two years ago to become railroad commissioner of his state, was seventy- —_ years old gt the time of his retire- ment. The House of Representatives has lost some interesting old men recently. Judge Kelly of Pennsylvanta, the “father of tne ‘House” for so many years, was seventy-six years old at the time of his death. ‘Ed- ward J. Gay of Louisiana, who also died in the harness, was only two years younger than Mr. Kelly. Gen. Vandever of Calt- fornia was seventy-three years old when he retired from office. Mr. Granger of Con- necticut was seventy-two years of age. Ed- ward Scull of Pennsylvania, who left pub- lic life at the close of the last Congress, Was seventy-five years old. Mr. Scull was almost seventy when he Was elected to the House. The House has only four men who are more than seventy years old. ‘This is not a large proportion, since its membership ts four times as great as that of the Senate; but the House is usually the stepping stone to the Senate, and even the Constitution contemplated the Senate as a more elderly body. The oldest member of the House is Thomas Dunn English of New Jersey, who was born in June, 1819. Mr. English is a graduate in medicine, in law, in authorship and in journalism. The last’ Congress was the first of which he was a member. Mr. English’ was seventy-one years old when he made his first canvass for election to the House. William Lilly, one of the Congress- men-at-large from Pennsylvania, was sev- enty years old when he accepted his first nomination to Congress. He is now seventy- two. He has had a busy life, beginning as @ conductor on a steam railroad and hav- ing gained wealth in the mining of anthra- cite coal. He has been a member of the Pennsylvania house of representatives and has been to six national republican con- ventions. But his highest honor before he reached the age of seventy was his elec- tion as delegate-at-large to the convention to revise the constitution of Pennsylvania. He was a demo until 1862. His col- league, Charles O'Neill of Philadelphia, -is a few months older. But being in Con- gress has been his steady occupation for more than a quarter of a century. He graduated from the Pennsylvania legisla- ture into the House of Representatives, in which he.is just beginning his fifteenth term. Every one in the House knows and likes “Charlie” O'Neill. He is a nervous, fussy little man, but he is active mentaily and physically, and, though his manner is sometimes very aggressive. he has not a bit of real fight in him. He still makes a personal canvass of -his distMct and knows every voter in it. He answers every let- ter that comes to him and distributes pub- Me documents and garden seed where they will do the most good at the next election. It was said that a member of the House a few years ago, to test Mr. O'Neill's ac- quaintance with his people, told him a story of having received a letter from a man in his district asking some favor, and telling him that he had asked the same favor of Mr. O'Neill in vain. Mr. O'Neill was very much disturbed at first, but when he had inquired the man’s name very par- ticularly he shook his head and said, “No you don’t. You can’t fool me. There Is no such man in my district.” Judge Wm. S. Holman. The man who divides with Mr. O'Neill the honor of being in his fifteenth con- gressional term is William S. Holman of Indiana, the famous “‘objector” of the House of Representatives. Mr. Holman is seventy-one years old, but there is no mem- ber of the House more active and more at- tentive to his congressional duties. He thinks of writing a book of reminiscences. Mr. Holman would not be a good example for the people who oppose the use of to- bacco. He has been a tobacco chewer all his life and is seldom without a quid. There are several members of the House who are just on the verge of seventy. One of these is Gen. Dan. Sickles, who is sixty- nine. He has been in Congress before and has been in public service a greater part of his life. Charles 8. Randall of Massachu- setts, who ts serving his third term in Con- gress, will be seventy years old next Febru- ary. John Avery of Michigan will also be seventy years old in February next. Mr. Avery has seen only seventeen birthdays. He was born on February 29. This is his first term in Congress. He has been a physician and was a pension examiner for sixteen years; but the only offices he has held with this exception, be- fore his election to Congress, were unim- portant local places. A veteran Congress- man, who will be sixty-nine years old in November, is Thomas J. Henderson of Illi- He was reared on a farm.is a lawyer, was a soldier and has been a member of the House for twenty years. There are two Houks in the House, representing the ex- tremes of politics and very nearly the ex- tremes of age. Mr. Houk of Ohio is sixty- was oen-/ eight years old, and this is his second term in Congress. Mr. Houk of Tennessee is less than thirty-four years old, and this is his second term also. He was first elected to fill the vacancy caused by the death of his father. The American people may be going “the pace that kills;” but certainly active polit- tive possession of his mental faculties up to the time of his death. His father, R. M. Blatchford, had a record no less interesting. He was in the diplomatic service at sixty- five and was commissioner of public parks of New York city at seventy-four. Roger B. Taney, Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, remained on the bench until he was nearly eighty-elght years old. He was ap- pointed Chief Justice at the age of fifty- eight. He began an autobiography at the age of seventy-seven, but did not finish it. Chief Justice Marshall, who served from 1800 to 1835 on the Supreme Bench, was eighty years old when ill health compelled him to leave Washington. He died in that year (1833). He was a delegate to the con- vention for revising the state constitution of Virginia when he was seventy-four years old, and, it is sald, that, though he did not speak often in the convention, when he did peak he showed that his mind was as clear d his reasoning as solid as in his younger days. Chief Justice Waite, who died five years ago, remained on the Supreme Bench to the last, though he was seventy-two years old when he died. Justice Strong, who is still living in Washington, retired from the Supreme Bench in 188) at the age of seventy-two. Noah H. Swayne,.who died in 1884, retired from the Supreme Bench in 1881 at’ the age of seventy-seven. Only one of the present members of the Supreme Court is more than seventy years old. This one is Justice Field, who reached the age of seventy seven years ago. Several of thg Presidents have remained in active politic& after retirement from the White House. Buchanan was elected Pres- ident at sixty-six and retired at the age of seventy. Tyler was a member of the pro- visional confederate congress at the age of seventy-one. John Adams, at eighty-five years of age, was a delegate to the conven- tion for revising the constitution of Massa- chusetts. John Quincy Adams was elected to Congress by the “anti-Mason” party when he was sixty-four; and he remained in Congress for seventeen years. He died in the Hall of the House. James Monroe re- tired from the Presidency at sixty-seven; was a regent of the University of Virginia, with Madison and Jefferson, at sixty-eight; declined to serve as an elector from Virginia, at seventy on the ground that an ex-Presi- dent should not be a‘partisan, but afterward acted as local magistrate and was a member of the constitutional convention of Virginia. Andrew Jackson was seventy when he left the White House. Some Lively Old Men. ‘The United States Senate has held some remarkably lively old men. Thomas H. Benton, after serving thirty years in House and Senate and writing a book about it, was a candidate for Congress at the age of seventy and was elected, too. He was @ candidate for governor at the age of sev: enty-four. Simon Cameron was elected to the Senate at sixty-seven and continued to serve until he was eighty years of age, when he resigned in favor of his son, the present Senator from Pennsylvania. Lewis Cass was re-elected to the Senate at sixty- nine; was a candidate for the Presidency at seventy, and at seventy-five accepted the post of Secretary of State under Buchanan. Henry Clay was re-elected to the Senate by a unanimous vote at the age of seventy-two and remained there until the time of his death three years later. Tom Corwin of Ohio was elected to Congress at sixty and was almost seventy years old when he wert to Mexico as minister of the United States. D after his term in the Sen- Secretary of Stat Fe Rinad the supreme bench of Connecticut ‘until he ‘was seventy, when he was retired on account of age. He took up the active practice of his profession and at the age of seventy- two served on a commission to revise the procedure of the state courts. Rufus King, after a long term in the Senate, was ap- pointed minister to England at seventy. His son, John, was elected governor of New York at sixty-nine years and was a member of the peace congress at seventy-three. Will- iam Cabell Rives was another old member of the peace congress. He had been a Sen- ator and he was sixty-eight years old when the congress was held. He served in the first and second provisional confederate con- gresses afterward. John Rutherford of New Jersey, who served two terms in the Senate, was at seventy-three an active member of a commission to settle boundary questions between New York and Pennsylvania. Me- lancton Smith, a member of the Continental Congress, was appointed a circuit judge at low fever at the age of seventy-four. His was the first fatal-case of yellow fever in the plague of 1798. John Stevens of New Jersey, a member of the Continental Con- gress, was made president of the council of New Jersey at sixty-eight and presided over the meetings of the two branches of the leg- {slature until he was seventy-four years old. Roger Sherman was elected to the Senate when he was seventy years old and died in the public service two years later. He was an ancestor of W. M. Evarts and George F. Hoar, two of the “grand old men” of the present day. Sherman was a member of the Continental Congress from Connecticut and was one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence. Several of the signers were long lived. One of them, William Ellery of Rhode Isiand, was coliector of Newport from the time he was sixty-three until he was ninety-three years old; then he died. Some old men_have been appointed. to cabinet places. Hugh McCulloch was made Secretary of the Treasury on the resigna- tion of Mr. Gresham in i8si, when he was seventy-six years old. He’ continued in office until the expiration of Arthur's term, five months later. He was the only man who held the office of the Secretary of the Treasury twice. His first term was in Lin. coln’s second cabinet. Richard W. Thomp- son resigned the position of Secretary of the Navy at seventy-two years of age ‘That wa8 in 1881. He is still actively in- terested In the Panama Canal Company. Judge Taft was appointed Secretary of War by Grant at sixty-six. Six years later he was made minister to Austria; and two years after that he was appointed minister to Russia, where he remained until he was seventy-five years old. Service in the dtp- lomatic corps does not seem to be wearing on the constitution. Benjamin Franklin is the most notable illustration of this fact. He was a member of a commission to France at the age of seventy after fifteen years of diplomatic service. At seventy- seven he negotiated the treaty of 178 which closed the revolutionary war. He was president of Pennsylvania at seventy-nine and a delegate to the convention that fram- ed the Constitution at eighty-one. Have Held on to Office. Other federal office holders who have held on until they were of good old age are W. 8. Rosecrans, who has just retired trom the position of register of the treasury at the age of seventy-four; Gov. Wm. Findley of Maryland, who was in charge of the mint at Philadelphia from the age of fitty- nine to seventy-two, and Senator Henry Stuart Foote of Mississipp!, who was super- intendent of the mint at New Orleans unt he was nearly elghty. Alex. Ramsey of Pennsylvania, who was Secretary of War under Hayes, after serving a term in the Senate and seeing other public service, was appointed a member of the Utah commis- sion at sixty-seven and served until he was seventy-one years old. Wm. Morris Mere- dith, who was Secretary of the Treasury under Taylor and whose stern features decorated the old twenty-five-cent “‘shin- plaster,” was attorney general of Pennsyl- vania at sixty-elght and president of the state constitutional convention at seventy- four. George Bancroft was more than ninety when he died, but his activity did not ai- minish until a year or two before the end. Henry Ward Beecher died in the midst of his work at seventy-four. Ben. Butler, too, was seventy-four when death cut him off, still actively engaged in the practice of his profession. Alex. Stephens was elected governor of Georgia by 60,000 majority at the age of seventy, just a year before his death. That other ‘distinguished Georgian, Joseph E. Brown, retired from the Senate at the age of seventy. But instances could be multiplied almost indefinitely. The country owes much to its old men as well as to its vouns anes the age of seventy. The | ixty-eight, and served until he died of yel-| ISOME LIGHT WRAPS. Pretty Cloaks and apes for Breezy Days of Early Autumn, COLORS AND MATERIALS. How to Make the Garments Stylishly but Economically. SOME SUITABLE TRIMMINGS. Written for The Evening Star. QHE SUMMER HAS left us and the cool days are not very far off, but even in the warm September days there are times when a pretty light wrap is quite a neces- sity, and for such days the following de- signs are intended. ‘The first picture represents a cape of fawn color broad- cloth. It is made on, a round yoke, which 1s covered by a full f fawn bengaline silk. A rolling col- ined with the bengaline, is clasped at es | the throat by two smoked pearl clasps. Around the yoke a heavy fall of lace to match the silk ts placed. If extra warmth be desired for this cape the whole could be lined with silk. A black and fawn colored hat is worn with this. ‘The second cut shows a wrap for a girl of fourteen. It is made with a point- ed yoke of gray silk. A gray silk cape, which reaches to about the waist, is gath- ered to this. A ruffle of white lace borders the yoke and falls half way down the cape, where another ruffle begins and falls to the waist. The under foundation of silk does not show at all. A rose quilling of lace and silk forms the collar of this dainty wrap. The third jaunty young lady wears a Jacket made on the plan of the reefer jack- ets of last year. It is of blue summer serge and is made double-breasted, fastening with big brass or pearl buttons. Anchors can be placed on the ends of the small turn-over collar. It has big puffy sleeves, which have turn-back cuffs at the wrists. The pockets are at each side and have la- re The little girl in the picture wears a jue sailor cap with this coat and has a very sallor-like air indeed. ‘The fourth coat represented is of golden brown cashmere. It is a long coat, and more adapted to fall than summer wear. It is short waisted, and the long skirt has | triple box plests—two in the back and two ius sue ivvus. Ane snort body is made of a BES gkoe peisties i coat, which is just the the throat or row of big pearl the front, see Be ‘The young girl next shown wears a long, loose coat that can be made in almost any color. It has a turn over rolling collar in the back that goes down into bretelles which extend down the front. A pleated ruffie is sewed around the neck, under the collar, like bretelles, and forms a very short cape in the back. The sleeves are very full and unlined, ws, indeed, is the whole of it, making it comfortabie for summer wear. ‘The baby shown pretty, Mother Hi . It hangs straight where a band of plain skirt. A little collar ruffie finish the neck and are of goods, as are the puff sleeves. combination for this cloak would Dike and white figured challie ming of the solid blue. A big leghorn with blue rosettes around the brim, goes with this. The solid blue on the coat would be prettiest in silk, though simple challie Would be pretty and, perhaps, more baby- 13? : iit ee cEe en physician to a writer for The Star. WH ATE i tf i igi Bigede H i i Be i $ i | i 4 i g g i : ; ; f i é i j Lf i g i i i i d 8 H Hib ie | ne i i: Hl Hi il i fi j i ik i [ i j pl F Lf i f richest mining camps in the state. “I am much struck with the politeness of conductors in Washington,” said & New York man. “They always seem anx- fous lest I stumble in getting on and off. In my city the man with the bell punch shouts, ‘step lively.’ Then he grabs you by the back of the neck and jerks you aboard. Over in Brooklyn the troliey is in full con- trol. The trolley cars in that town have caused an average of thirty deaths a month for some time past. However, life is not much worth having if one must live in Brooklyn. Toward the ferries for several blocks from the river there is a pretty rapid descent, and the cars go so fast that one has hardly a change to get out of the way. I have just come from Boston. The trolley cars there are provided with a sort of cow catcher. The contrivance ts e plat- form projecting from the front of the car at just the height of a person's knee. It is pu=posely so arranged, the object being to The tenth picture is a coat made of bright red cashmere. It is perhaps too bril- Mant a color for summer, but is just the | thing for autumn. It is made to hang in straight folds in front, but has a body in the back which extends half way around | the front, on both sides. This body is not | separate, but is sewed down to the rest of the coat. A-ruffle of red encircles the neck | and forms the collar. The big hanging sleeves are finished off by a small cuff. A red fez with a black tassel Is worn with | this bright little autumn suit and on the whole the small wearer looks very lke one of October's brightly colered lsaves, double up anybody that is struck and throw him upon the cow catcher, from which he ts grabbed and dragged into safety by the driver. This is a rapid age we live in.” World's Fair Half Dollars. Souvenir Columbian half dollars are flow. ing into the treasury in great numbers. They are a drug in the market. There is no question that the speculation in them has proved a failure. However, they cannot be bought at par here. A Star reporter yes- terday asked the privilege of buying a few for fifty cents aplece at the treasury. It was refused “Very sorry,” said an official, “but we are not authorized to let them go. We shall hold all that we get until the world’s fait closes, Then it may be that you will be able to p-ocure as many as you like with- out paying a premium for them.” piacere -tancibannn Why He Dian From Truth. Friend. Like Him. ‘How do you Mke your new ‘Don’t ike him; he's delicate, kind mever get sick enough to stay ef