Evening Star Newspaper, August 22, 1891, Page 10

10 FASHION'S LATE FADS Some of the Styles Adopted by the Women of Fashion. COIFFURES AND FOOT GEAR. Sailor Jackets and Hats—An Early Autamn Model for Tailor-Made Costumes—How to Drees the Hair Artistically—Latest Styles in Shoes and Siippers. Correspondence of The Evening Star. New Yorx, Angust 21, 1891. OREMOST AMONG THE late sammer styles that are likely to last into au- tumn fs the combination of saior hatand feminized in the initial illustration. The hats are gay with bright ribbons now, but will be moderated to plain colors, of course, for city wear later. The jackets, 1L. too, are at present as rain- $e. bowlike as the biazers cjonsed to be, but an autum- 1 somberness will come over them. In these toi- bletea survival of “tailor- *ionde” is seen, and, a8 neual, the belles with good forms aro at an advantage over the less shapely women. - “there iss Btraight in a tailor-made, remarks Carrie's young man. “she alway rs them,” replios “Doesn't want her figure wasted, “Wasted! I'm sure it needs it.” Hore tsa tailor-made gown of anearly antumn model, the siashing of the basque being a new usage. The material is woolen and the skirt is p.ain, with length enough behind to drag— more’s the pity. This trailing of our dresses imn't bad indoors or on the lawns and verandas at the summer resorts, but for kidewalke it is depiorable. So, skirts are bound to be refash- foned soon. navy jacket, as depicted | handed it to her. “Itbelongs tothe other lady,” said she, aweetly, and sailed out, leavin her friend consumed with embarrassment an obliged to take the rag. Going from one extreme of fash{on to the other—that is, from head to feet—let us con- sider shoes. The Oxford tie is the best for summer wear, and in winters gaiter can be put over it and in wet weather a eandal rubber is easily adjusted. A tied shoe keeps its shape longer than a buttoned one, because as it stretches you can lace it tighter. As it tics just below the ankle no additional size is given to that part of the foot which should be most slender. ‘The stockings should always match the low shoe or “tie,” as it is usually called, and aa s rule both should match the dress. An arch most comfortably supported b; @ high-heel ahoe. If the base of the heel be broad enough it can be worn with safety. A PRETTY RVEXING OR HOUSE SHOE is modification of the tie, which fastens with a buckle and just at or below the instep instead of above it. The buckle may be gold or jeweled, or ribbon may be substituted. When the foot lacks rise at the instep this buckle can fasten over a tongue that stands | well up where the instep needs exaggeration. | This style of shoe, made with sides of adark shade and the toe and tongue of a light one of | the same color—that color matching tie dress— are dressy and becoming. The dark sides give narrowness to the foot, while the light front imparts length to the foot and promi- hence to the instep. The curving in of the French heel takes from the foot and makes the foot; y curving up of a pointed toc in Moorish fashion also takes from the apparent length of a shoe. Slippers made with sides of undressed leather or cloth exacly matching the stockings, and With the toes of patent leather, or embroidere or d, make the foot seem «mall, for t sides catch no light and all that one sees is the bright point of the shoe. A Low snor, | made as high as an Oxford tic, but with sides set wide apart, and with no tongue, is laced through a few holes, the sides being cut at the Jaci ge, in two or three scallops, each seal- lop finished with a hole and laced with ribbon exactly matching the shoe and stocking. ‘The ribbon erosses over the foot, the silk stocking showing, of course, and winds once or twice about the ankle, then tying in front and weil | above the ankle. | This shoe 1 one of the prettiest made and | combines the good points of almost every ie of foot gear. Hed slippers or buckled are pretty with any dark dresses and or dark stockings to match the gown. Bick slippers may be furnished with red heels, the heel being the ou!y touch of color in a costume. A metal cap on the bottom of a heel insures the even wearing of i a pretty clicking accompaniment to one’s Py only the step must be light, confident and even, ‘and one must not be disconcerted one's self at the click. How To EXPosE THE Foor. A foot should always be thrust forward daintily as one steps and well pointed down- EARLY AUTUMN MODEL. ‘Traveling and rural toilets are generally made with a jacket which can be worn open or closed, and if there is. bodice as well this fe usually in coat form, so that this and the skirt make a complete toilet without the jacket. A coat and vest does not permit the blouse or shirt to be small are useful and do away with the necessity for a Jacket an well. Such 's jacket as the frst pic« shows may be worn over the bodice of the illustration. ‘EXJOTING POOR MEALTE. The story is told of & vain, somewhat hypo- critical and wholly beautiful married woman living for the summer at Long Branch. She is ‘She has had a victorious sum- ‘mer, but about a week ago she decided that life Tag not worth living and accordingly went to bed dangerously The doctors that were called in smiled over het case, but she remained ‘critical condition nevertheless. It was said she gots fresh delight in knowing that gE every one acquainted with her continually asked about her health and were longing to have her, sbout again. Her husband, ‘who fe = good-tempered man, humored her in her iliness, and her invalid existence wus one of laxury and All the time she was, to her own announcement, a re- markably sick woman. and went so far as to ask that her spiritual adviser should be sent for. as the end could not be far off. The husband at Jest got alarmed and tried to talk his wife into One clared that her terrible been lifted from her in the night, and, heaven be she was a well woman. questioned the husband about the us cure. He IS DIPLOMACY. “Well, I told her that I had engaged a noted hair dresser to come down from New York—an artist who had just obtained from abroad the styles of coiffure likely to prevail next fall—but ‘that I feared, on account of her illness, she would have to forego the pleasure of lettir im fix up her hair ahead of others. Wel ‘that did it, She couldn't show her newly hair Gressed head in bed, so she decided she would have to xet up. What do you thins of me asa Giplomatist?" Information as to the new coiffures would be More pertinent in a fashion article. Two Glustrative heads are given. The style in the fret is ene which cannot fail to suit almost any one, and is with along coil of lusir- dressed rather high and a little buneh of curls. ‘The second is » prett, evening ARTISTIC, BUT ARTIFICIAL. So nicely artistic are some of ou: more arti- ficial women that with every new shade given to their hair by bleaching they uso a different Bue of face tint. These daubed and dyed crea- fares aro the horrible examples of inebriety in ward. In going down stairs the foot should challenge attention, and the trim silk-coated ankle not miss its share. There are those who can even cross their knees an‘ yet look daintily modest, but others in doing this only suggest Vulgar ‘or careless exposure. A neatly dis- closed foot is delightful, is feminine, is all that is lovely. Exposure and beedless undress are coarse, Vulgar and disgusting. A woman's taste dictates and her temperament detines her Possibilities in these matters. ——_e-—____ AT THE FRONT GATE, How the Country Lovers Amused Themselves in Saying Good Night. From Munsey’s Weekly. “Purty night. ain't it, Tilly?” purty enough; good-night, Hank. t's yer rush? We ain't been standing here but a few minutes.” “Q-o-o-h, Hank Sparks, what a big story teller you are. We've been here over an hour.” ‘Well, what if we have?” ‘Well, that’s long enough, that’s what. We'd ought to be ‘shamed of ourselves any- how.” “What for?” “For being so silly.” “L reckon we ain't the only silly folke in the world, then. “That don't make no difference. Good night.” "No, wait a minute, Tilly.” “What for? You s'pose I'm going to stand here all night?” “Nobody wants you to stay here all night, but I don’t see why you should snatch yourself away like this.” ll be calling me first thing I kno “Let him call; it won't hurt him.” “It might hurt you if he took a notion to come out or to set old Boze loose. ‘Psha? Who's afraid?” ‘You'd better be. Good night. ‘Wait a minute.” “What for, you bi mp, you.” “Oh, because.” 8 OT I pity a feller who ain't bh his girl when he ean.” Tt enone “I'd be ashamed if Iwas you, sir. Good ht. “Good night, Tilly.” “Good night” ———_+eo—__ ‘What Young Women Read. From the New York World. The young woman of today does not read books. She skims paper-backed novels of the fourth rate instead. If you doubt, look over any news stand from New York to San Francisco and see what litera- ture you find there. The newsman knows what his customers want and supplies it. And customers are mainly young women. Every book publisher has felt the effect of this tendency. It isno longer possible to count confidently “upon s good sale for a masterly book of essays or other book belonging to th higher forms of light literature. Even novel of the better class—those that are worthy of cloth binding—are no longer in much demand. e ig public of our time wants trash, and it gets it in lavish abundance. 1e upon the book trade concerns the publishers and dealers mainly. There are other effects of greater consequence. Our young women are growing up ignorant of literature and with perverted tastes’ which will prevent them from repairing the fault in later lif ‘They do not read books that make them think. and for the most part they do not want to think. They want to kill time with the least possibie intellectual exertion. To this there are exceptions, but this is the rulé. It isan age of trash. ‘From the Providence Telexram. One of the oldest colored men who hang around Dyer street looking for a job recently spproached one of the commission merchants on that street, and after considerable shuffling around, exclaimed: “Say, boss, I wants ter ax yer a question.” “all right, go ahead.” ‘a kin git my furnicher insured for 9400?" os ifn only cost me 94?” “S'pode I had dat trumpery insured, an’ de housen would catch afireand burn up, what would I gi “In that case, Sam, you'd and (en seat to Cranston for tex ot van “For sett the fire, of course.” “Golly, am dat ao?” Well, I am werry much to yer, an’ I I will save dat $4 tnd left de $400 ge. ah” THE DEAR DEPARTED. How the Dead Are Laid Away and Oared for in Chili, SOME CURIOUS CUSTOMS. Children Preserved for Days Atmid Ponsting and Dancing—Distinctions of Caste Even in the Cometery—After MuchOpposition Grave- yards Are Thrown Open to All. ‘From The Star's Traveling Commissioner. Coxcerciox, Curt, August 1, 1891. SOUND OF MUSIC ATTRACTED ME TO the window this morning; and what do you think Isaw? A mahogeny-hued peon, or Chilian peasant, carrying on hie outstretched hands board about five feot long and on the plank a dead child, attired in @ red calico frock. The smalt corpse was that of « girl, apparently five years old. The lower extremi- ties were encased in white cotton hose, “a world foo wide for the shrank shank;” « Jaunty wreath of paper roses crowned the smoothly braided jet-black hair; the cheeks were horribly daubed with vermilion to simu- Inte the hue of health, and the wide- open eyes seemed starting into infinity. The plank bearer was followed by two women, evi- dently the mother and grandmother of the de- ceased, who walked with the air of conscious importance as becomes those who have fur- nished an “‘angelita” (little angel) to swell the heavenly host. Behind the women marched two men, playing with might and main, one on a fiddie, the other on a guitar, each intent ow a tune of his own, regurdless of the other's performance, while the rear was brought up by & laughing and chattering dozen or more of meu, women and children, most of whom gave indubitable evidence of unwise generosity on somebody's part in the way of chicha. ‘They were on the way to the pantheon to in- ter the “little angel,” over which they had been dencing and drinking three days past, and which, possibiy, had been loaned once or twice in the meantime to friends who were not so fortunate us tohave a corpse in the family. Among the more degraded class of Chilians it isa general custom to make death an excuse for orgies as wild and ridiculous as those of an ultra-Irish wake, and the body of a child e cially is often kept for festive purposes until it becomes offensive to all who approach the house. FUNNY SIDE TO FUNERALS. In this queer country there is a funny side even to funerals. A member of the U.S. N. astronomical expedition in Chili, made some years ago, tells the story of a common occur- rence. Sayshe: “Returning late one night from a dancing party I had the opportynity of witnessing festivities of quite a different character. Passing in front of a small casa my attention was attracted by loud singing and shouting within. A woman who stood in doorway, seeing me pause, invited me to enter. ‘What is going on?’ I asked. “‘Estamos velando un angelita de Dios’ Ms boy watching an angel of God), she re- plied. “My curiosity being aroused by such an an- swerlentered. The room was crowded wit men and women of the lower classes,engaged in drinking and clapping their hands to the music of two females, who sat on the floor, guitar in hand, singing a drawling ditty, the burden of which was the happiness of something or some- body in heaven. But the most prominent ob- ject was a kind of rude altar, set round with lighted candles and ornamented with tinsel flowers. In the midst of these sat the life-sized figure of an infant, dressed in tawdry bet adorned with gauze wings, its face profusely painted red und white.’ ‘It is the image of some saint,” I said to myself, aud was turning away, when a second glance con- vinced me there was something unusual about this figure. The hair looked very natural, the ere strangely vacant and filmy, and even e finger naila were perfectly formed. There seemed to be a good deal too much of art for nature, and yet too much naturefor art. I ap- proached to scrutinize it more closely, and was orrified to discover that it was a corpse. bat is that? I asked of a bystander. n angelita, senor,’ (an angel, sir), he re- what? ‘A dead child, sir.’ __ “I was afterward informed that those watch- ings are very common throughout the rural districts of Chili and that frequently they were continued, with music, dancing and drunken- ness, night after night, until the corpse becomes too offensive for endurance. One can under- stand how refined sentiments may induce the bereaved mother to strew the bier of her in- fant with fresh flowers—embiems of youth, beauty and innocence—but this display of paint and tinsel, this maudlin blasphemy and mid- night debauchery in the presence of the dead, is revolting.” Among the better classes of Chilians funerals are conducted on pretty much the same plan as in other civilized countries, except that here ladies never attend them. It is customary for all the friends aud acquaintances of the af- flicted family to pay them visite of condolence within ten days after the obsequies. For a month the mourners are expected to sit in one corner of a darkened parlor. The condoling callers approach them, oneafter another, occupy the nearest chair for five minutes or more hile expressing their sympathy for the living d regret for the dead, then make their bows and retire as succeeding arrivals move up. A refreshment table is generally spread in an ad- joining apartment, at which visitors may fortify themselves "for the onerous duty of friendship, or refresh themselves after its per- formance. AN HISTORIC INCIDENT. Among many odd incidents pertaining to funerals the following is still much talked of hereabouts. Some ten years ago a well-known citizen of Concepcion, who served his country faithfully and lived sans peuret sang reprocke os Chilian citizens go, quarreled with the middle-aged mother of his half dozen chil- dren. She took “French leave" one night, and nothing was heard of her afterward. Having Femained ip single blessednessn year or two, without being to ascertain whether the runaway wife was living or dead, the gentle- man took a younger woman to wife, contrary to the wishes of the chureh. Shortly after the second marringe he became so sick that his life was despaired of. Of course the friends sent for a priest, who came, and commanded the dying man to renounce the new wife be- fore he could receive absolution. This the husband refused todo, and the priest retired tn high dudgoon without leaving Behind the desired pass through purgatory. man a the p called grew rapidly worse, riest was Again, and yet again, the latter always making the ‘same demand, with the same result. Threats followed of direst eternal conse- quences; and finally the poor, harrassed man, unable to give up the ghost in seized & revolver from under his pillow and drove the priest from the rooms Half an our later he was dead—and the church refused to bury him. The family a pealed to the mayor of the city, who ordered his burial, the priests sereales i cion, who dec tha buried. Here was a Nobody would ever think of being buried in other than “consecrated ground,” and in those days the cemeteries all to the church. The president of the republic was ap; and ‘he overruled the. bish ordered, ¢ retty kettle of fish! THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D.C, SATURDAY, AUGUST 22, another 90. If the family had moved to another part of the country or were ali dead their lot was resold when the lease ¢: and the former tenanta ovicted: but if they deeited ‘to remove the dead to another 930 was for ‘to do £0. A The eburch in Santiago owns first-class hearse, which is nsed only for great dignitaries at tho cost of #80 for conveying the on ite Inst Journey. It also has a second-class hearse, for *‘comtnon people,” the fee for tistn which is 612, anda third-class hearse for 64 And #0 on down the social gamut to the sixth clase, composed of the church's most devoted servants, who, having no money to pay for any hearse, carry their dead on stretcher and them cofiiniess in the rotos (“ragged people's” corner. Great cometery of Chili's capital, with {te more than 900,000 segisteted deeds fa cere tainly the most populous, if not popular, public Fesort in the country, And tho population, still constantly increasing. is a permanent one, dis- turbed by no Mayday movings or revolutions or changi: fe is divided into five parts—oue for dignitaries of the church, one for wealthy and influential ple, another for commoner clay andanother for “rotos™ who are too poor to pay anything. Passing into that city of silence, through a lofty arch gate- way topped by a tall cross, one stands amazed at the muititude of bronze and marble mon- uments and splendid statues, many of them executed by the most famons sculptors of Europe, a crowd of costly and artistic shapes, exceeding in number those to be found at Greenwood or Mount Au- burn. Thousands of the monuments are in the form of crucifixes, reminding the visitors of some one’s thought—“Let us hope that the; have gained the crown, for behold the multi- tude of crosses they have left behind.” Ever- greens, willows, flowering shrubs, rose: forget-me-nots riot everywhere with canny luxuriance peciliar to graveyards, Should you tarry towateh the sexton digging & grave you would observe that his spade soon encounters something hard in the It is only the fragments of some for; son's coffin, which, with are carelessly rattled out upon the A little deeper down ine iasure tocome upon another “poor Yorick,” and yet another, four layers of them being ‘about the average. OPPOSITION TO THE “CEMETERY BIL! It is still spoken of with bated breath how, when the famous “cometery bill,” which com- pelled the authorities to permit the burial of Protestants and other heretics in the public pantheons, had passed both houses of Congress and received the signature of the president, the bishop of this diocese, a man_of powerial physique and fn upparent health, dropped dead from ‘the shock of the news." Perding the president's siznaturejle was waited upon by a delegation composed of hundreds oi the wealth- jest Indies of the country, who besought him to veto the obnoxious bill. “They were the wives and daughters of the Chilian’ aristocra same class of Indies, still swayed in by the church, who are today expouti cause of the revolutionists, which in r question of the liberal party against so-called conservatism, of the aristocracy against the common people, free schools and eniightened progress against circumscribed education and @ return to the priestly rule of half a century ago. Even the Holy Host procession, which pos- fascination for us in Peru and nd lights and burning incense an great pomp of military; but in recent years so many difticulties have ‘arisen between’ the na- tives and heretic foreigners—the latter some- times refusing to kneel in tho street when the sacred procession pusscd—that the authorities have forbidden those outward demonstrations in the principal cities, though they still con- tinue in interior villages. In Santiago and Val- paraiso the holy viatico, or host, is now con- veyed to the bed of death by a pricet under a red umbrella, preceded by three boys with a bell and lighted candles. “In Concepcion one may sometimes meet it in a lumbering coach drawn by donkeys, with a driver, dressed in red, seated in front and ‘a black robed priest inside. The latter carrics the consecrated wafer in a small box, while a boy, also dressed in red, walks before, ringing a bell to call the attention of passers: by. Itisa strange sight’ Even politicians of the “liberal” type, who are most bitter in their denunciations of the church, invariably stop and uncover their heads, and many of them spread their handkerchiefs on the dusty side- walk and kneel upon them, while the lower classes fall upon their knees at once. When across road is reacbed all the people for the distance of a block must uncover their heads or bow to the earth, and good Catholics murmur prayers for the departing soul to which the sacred wafer with ite mysterious significance is pass- ing. So sacredly is the custom of kneeling ‘observed among the natives that even the pare ticipants in a waltz or cuaca will pause when the sound of the bell is heard and bend the knee until the viatico has gone by. ALL SAINTS’ DAY CELEBRATION. In Chili, as in other Catholic countries, No- vember 1 is All Saints’ day, when surviving friends decorate the graves of the dead and have prayers said for the repose of their souls. On that day, in any Chilian ci ing to the’ pantheon is thronged with people attired in deepest mourning on th the performance of these rites. place has previously been put in order for the occasion, its pits filled up and scattered bones and pieces of cofins cisared away. Aisles of beggars stretch along the road to the gate of the pantheon, where vendors of fruits, cakes. ices, chicha and milk puuch hoarsely offer their wares for sale, while vigilantes, running bout to preserve r, contribute to a scene of confusion more appropriate to the entrance of a country fair ground or circus tent than to asilent city of the dead. The cemetery chapel, whose inte- rior has been heavily shrouded in black and hung with dimly burning lamps, is filled from dawn till dark with kneeling figures, and be- side its outer door a table is generally placed on which stands a figure of Christ surrounded by candles and backed by ‘ulls and crossbones which have done duty on many similar occasions. Inside all the tombs are covered with fresh flowers, mostly arranged in wreaths, festoons or vases. area few beautiful’ garlands of immortelles, but so hideous though doubtless expensive wreaths of black and white beads combined with black paper roses appear to be the more fashionable decoration. Groups of chatting gaily, are seated upon the graves, while at various points throughout the grounds stand Driests of different orders re- rayers for the dea: es Fayyre B. Warp. ——_+e+-—__. Luxury and Society. From the London Spectator. There always has been a frivolous society in London, tending usually to be a bad society, imbedded in the much more serious mass; but we note one change of late years, which is very natural, but which, we suspect, tends to mis- chief. The millionaires, who in America are 0 important in business and politics, but have no social weight, are here, as in France, ris- ing to the top of the social milk. A mil- lionaire is, of course, not objectionable on that account; but a preponderance of new millionaires —vulgarizes —_ society, fosters its vicious tendency to make of mere lusury an ideal, and introduces a tone of ex- pense for the sako of cxpense, which is ruinous and may become demorulizing. Luxury does not ruin states, as used to be said, but it very often ruins societies. This influence of the millionaires is all the worse because it happens to synchronize with a tendency of our times which, though described as social, has become 80 marked ‘as to attract the attention of hysicians. Pidwing, as wo believe, to an exaggeration of nervous susceptibility, due to the hurry of modern life, to the increase of receptive tatel- ligence—originating intelligence has not in- at ext generation, there is positively new craving for excitement and impatience of the time. Boys Is alike, between twenty a seem phy en- 'd | and GINSENG AND ITs USES. A Wonderful Root Valued by the Chinces and Its Fabulous Qualities. Giseene 13 A VEGETABLE OF MYSTERY and wonder, according to Chinese belief. Itis not like any ordinary plant, without con- sciousness, but has a mind of its own and is even endowed with the power of locomotion. Being capable of volition and desiring al- ways to elnde capture, this much-prized wild root seeks to control itself and is con- sequently*very difficult to find. Moreover it is guarded by the tiger, the leopard, the wolf and the snake, who have been specially appointed by the gods to it and watch over its safety in the wooded glens among the mountains where it makes its home. In 1882 the Empress Regent Hsi-tai-ho lay sick nearly unto death, and a fewof her trusty friends made an expedition into Quantung, where the most valued species grows, and se- cured some of it for administering to ber im- perial majesty, although they were obliged to encounter many frighful terrors and dangers in the course of the enterprise. Quantong ginseng is so rare and precious that its use is practically limited to the im- perial family. Search is undertaken for it un- dor government auspices by bold persons who are furnished for ths purpose with explicit di- roctions and rations for a fortnight. Most the seekers fall victims to the wild animals, rish of fatigue or succumb to famine. A few, however, who have natures sufficiently chaste and pure are permitted at night to see the spiritual essence or halo which the heavenly fe-sustnining root puts forth. When day dawns the treasure is unearthed, and if in o1 piece weighing three or four ounces the find a lucky one, siteh a specimen selling readi for 200 tnels of silver. The yearly amount thus obtained does not exceed a few pounds. This special variety bears a wonderful resemblance in form to the figure of « man, which fact in itself goes to show its supernatural origin. The moisiure o: the body is properly regn- lated by the medicinally prepared ginseng, the Chinese say, which prevents the wits from be- coming dried up, keeps all the organs in their normal state of saturation and permits one to enjoy a natural flow of spirits. Kick men, with nothing to think of but their health, use it ia the hope that it will insure them a long lif Folks “keeping up appearances” have usual a cup of it on brew in the drawing room to gi’ visitors the impression that the means of U family are such as to afford an expensive luxury. People buy it wt the beginning of the trying summer season and keep it by them against emergencies. cians rarely prescribe it for the poor, | the latter, not being used to it, might | by a dose which could be judicious! administered to 4 we: Its usefu ness in cages of debi monary d eases is deciared to be great, though its most y important value as medicine lies in the power it possesses to sus rhile when the vital candle 18 flicke to expire. This gives the dying mun time to settle his property on relations or friends, thus gaining for hin a contentment of mind ‘which enables him to view with calmness the wave of oblivion that i about to overwhelm hin. a In the preparation of ginseng a small china pot without a nozzle is used. Into it pieces of the sliced root are put together with « lump of sugar; boiling water is poured on, and a few grains of rice are sprinkled over the top of the cover. Tho pot is then vet to simmer in an iron cooking pan half diied with water. When the grains of rice are stexmed through and fit to eat the ginneng brew wili also have reached the desired stage. One thus avoids let- ting the flavor escape in brewing through repeated openings of the pot to see if it is done. The root is also taken in piils and in the shape of a confection. Nearly every apothe- cary shop in China has displayed upon its door posts the announcement that ginseng and young déer’s horn pills are an article of ready supply, The latter substance is estecmed valtabie oss, tonis, while tie two combined will cure almost any disease. Ginseng loves moisture and the densest parts of the forest on the slopes of Lilis; it nestles in recesses where the rays of the sun have never penetrated and which are as pathless now as in the days when the Golden ‘Tariars were dwell- ing in and cultivating the plains. The genuine Manchaorian plant consists of a stem from which the leaves spring, of a center root, and of two roots branching off from the same point from each side of the center root. The stem some- what recembies the head and neck and the side roots the shoulders and arms of a man. ‘The main root represents the body, and a fork, which the main root frequently forms, the legs. It is believed that the precious qualities of this marvelous vege- table are increased and intensified by age, and a plant is of no great value until it has beon growing and gathering strength for at least fifty years. Tho age, and consequently the worth, of a specimen are ascertained by a care ful examination of the upper portions of the root, which should be covered with rings, and the thicker and more numerous the rings the greater the age. It is the upper part of the Toot that possesses the greater Decllag 5 but the stem which appears above ground is baneful rather than beneficial and should be avoided. An old one, of very human shape and with bead and limbs complete, is supposed to bave lived and grown for 100 or 200 years and fetches from 200 to. 400 taels per cunce weight. Wild ginseng is sought for on mountains, the searchera beating the tall grass on every side until they find a patch of ground that is bare. ‘There thoy expect to find the plants and at once proceed to dig for them. ‘The dificulty of getting it is thought to be increased by the fact that ithas the power of ing from place to place underground firing abima. Gattivated ‘gtaseng, grown for market, is of much jess value. sdiciee erent A Woman's Hate. “I hate you, I hate you!” the maiden said, Ft And her eyelids drooped and her face grew red, ‘And she tarned from her lover and hung her head, ‘The fiush crept up to her rich brown hair, And she plucked to pieces a rosebttd fair, ‘As she stole a g!ance at her lover there. And he—these men are so full of guile— Ris eyes a-gilatening with mirth the while, ‘Looked caiimly on, with a doubting smile. “I hate you, I hgte you!” she said again, And she capped her toe on the carpet then, ‘As if each tap were a stab at men. Her lip was a-quiver, her eyes in mist, Her cheek and throat, as the sun gods kissed, Were bathed in the essence of amethyat. And then her love, with a startled look, Grew serious quite, aud his face forsook ‘The conddent glow which it erstwhtie took. And, “Oh, very well,” as he rose to go; “And If it please you to have it 80, Why, so it shall be, as you doubtless know.” He took one step, but a Oh, much the sweetest {s bliss unearne And looked ih the tear-wet eyes that yearned, No word she spoke, but her arms entwined Around his ueck. Oh, a woman's mind Isa puzzle to which no key you'll nd. Upon his shoulder she laid her head, Aud he kissed her check, which was still rose-red; “You know Ihate yout” Was allahe sald, jasp. Philadelphia’s New Clock Tower. From the Jewelers’ Circular. ‘The clock tower to surmount the new city building in Philadelphia is now ready to be putin place. It is entirely of metal, and is intended to rest on the marble work of the tower, which rises to a height of 337 feet 414 inches from the ground. Set in the stone base are eight composite columns rising vertically ton height sixty-seven feet eight- inches above the marble work, and above that con- verging toward the center to reccive and sup- andden turn 1891—SIXTEEN PAGES. NEW FRUITS OF THE EARTH. It fs nothing more nor less than the root of the calla lily, which resembles somewhat in appear- ance the ordinary Irish tuber, with the addition of a few whiskers that have nothing to do with the case or with the qualities of the article as anesculent. However, it is more elongated, and, when cut, the interior is @ trifle more viscid. But a section of it is 80 potato-like that yon would not be likely to any dif- ference. In cooking it has first to be boiled, in order to destroy certain acrid properties, after which it may be fried, roasted, baked, or what not, according to taste. Farmers in Florida have begun to raise these calla roots for market. The its grow read- ily in swamps, and so thickly that the yield of a ingle flooded acre is enormous. They Pau duce themselves by the multiplication of bulbs undergrourd, so that the grower has simply to dig up the offshoots and leave the rents to propagate anew. For centaries the yptians have cultivated a similar crop dur- ing the seasons of the Nile overflow, and at the Present time calia lily bulbs are acommon Yege- table in Japaneso markets. So lifie and Mi; | Palatable are they that their propagation ia many parts of the United States, where eondi- tions are favorable, may reasonably be looked forward to as an agricultural industry of the ure. DISCOVERING NEW FRUITS. The Department of Agriculture is continually engaged in trying to discover and encourage the cultivation of new and desirable varieties of fruits, Intely it has come across a sort of giant gooseberry that grows on trees, and Within the Inst few days wlong-sought prive has been obtained from Benton Harbor, Mich., fn the shape of \a really traly thorniess black. berry. The picking of this latter delectable fruit has hitherto beon interfered with to some extent by the epikes with which nature pro- tects the branches, but in future, thanks to the d efforts of enlightened agriculturiste, rill be to go blackberrying with ing their fingers. INO OF NUTS. Experiments are at prosent being tried for the first time in the grafting of pecan trees. Accidental seedlings in Texas and New Mexico have developed nutof this kindas far enperior to the ordinary ones marketed as the shellbark is better thana pig nut. Furthermore, it has been demonstruied that these improved va- rieties can readily be perpetuated and even bettered by grafting. Only a little cultivation is _necessar¥ to produce pecans five of six es the sive of the usual specimens and with *o papery as to be ensily broken etween the forefinger and thumb, Tue Stan writer saw a good-sized paste- board box faliof such samples in the office of the Cnited States pomologist yesterday, and ate a few to make sure of their delicious quality. Lt is the same way with chestnuts, which grow to the size of a horse chestnnt in fome parts of the United States. They, too, are being grafted, with a view to securing the erpetuation of their size and edible qualities, in a certain Illinois valley hickory nuts used to grow as wide xs the palni of one’s hand, and efforts are being made to obtain a surviving plant from which to propagate these wonders, What a wonderful thing the process called ig" is! How curious tosee plums and growing on a peach tree; or, not less pears depending from a branch of an apple tree! Cute nick out of one of the limbs of an orange tree and insert a slip from a lemon tree, freshly taken. Lo! it grows, and that branch produces lemons, while the others ith oranges. In accom- however, you must obey in trees; you cannot success fully graft stone fruits on those which bear seeds, and the citrus kind, such as the orange and lemon, will ouly go together. THE VITAL On@ANS. The object sought by the skilled gardener, when he makes a graft. is to bring into contact the vital parts of the slipand the treo on which the graft is made. Now, the vital organ of a tree is ite under skin, ‘Tho heart of the wood has nothing to do with ics life, which will often bevigorous when theinner trunk isalleatenaway and hollow. Bnt beneath the bark is a layer of soft, cellular tissue, which gives birth to the fiber of the wood on the inside and to the fiber of the bark on the outside. During the winter this layer becomes thin nd non-produetive, but when spring comes its cells multiply and multiply, forming more ide and forcing the bark ontward, thus adding to the diameter of the tree until after a few cen- turies, perhaps, it becomes a monarch of the forest. Such is the way in which the oak, the elm and most other trees native to these iati- tudes are developed; but the palm and its kind grow after the manntr of corn stalke,which is very different. “gr cherric —_—— No “Old Man of the Mountain.” W. C. Prime in the N. ¥. Journal of Commerce. That far-tamed profile in Franconia Notch, which hundreds of thousands have come to see and think they have seen, which has been the burden of innumerable publications, the sub- ft of a thousand works of artists, that mighty ead of granite which seems to be the very moun- tain top itself, majestic and awful among the clouds when the east winds sweep them across: forehead, that wonder of the northern world, does not exist! There isnoOld Man. There is no profile. It isa pure fiction of the eyes that look at it, and has no being in stone. Such a statement seems very wild and reck- lees to many who have looked on the great stone face, belioving that they saw a reality. But the statement is literally true. The western side of Franconia Notch is bounded by a mountain ridge, the upper part of which for nearly two miles rises in a bare granite cliff above the forests which cover its lower slope. This granite wall, over a mile long, ends abruptl; point where the Notch ravine turne course nezrly north to a northwesterly direc- ticn. The mountain ridge bends at the same angle, and continues northwesterly up, the t the it wooded slopes of Cannon mountain. th very angle the an most perpendicular ifivend, ‘They end in a very sbattered condi: tion, as if some terrible powder had burst off the sloping ridge of Cannon mountain and gone dowa the valley, tearing of the forests and grinding away’ the face of the solid rock for two miles. When you stand where you look at the shattered angle the cliff you seem to see bi up against the sky that well-known roa -hewn Yon seem to sec it. But there is no face there. ‘The illusion is produced by the accidental position of various surfaces and points of rock which project from the cliff at Giferent places, not ander each other. ‘That which you think is the outlined vocedees sloping ledge, and the outermost point w! seems to be tho tip of the nose is Sty or axty feet out of the perpendicular line from the forehead. In short, the front view shows a mere rough, ragged cliff, and the various pro- Joctions which fares the outline of the pretia when seen from a certain angle are scattered here and there within a distance of fifty or hundred feet north and south of a lar line drawn down from the for or another such line drawn upward from ‘the point of the chin. The profile therefore existe Only in the eyes that seo it and not in the rock which it seems to be. esenine ort IES ‘Wanted the Band. From the New York World. Aman with a big hand organ had stopped to play on Irving place when a woman came out and said: “I wish you'd be kind enough to move on ‘and not play here. There's very sick man in Rory cast-iron base-plate of the, figure ot | an not Pl above the mayie worl base, et © ‘ches | yea no wanta dis a moosick?” ‘The whole of the outside shell to a height of | ‘‘No- sixty-seven feet eight inches above the marble} . Somebody seska?” Castiron sect rer ‘of ope inch in chickens tobe ine ‘ele 90 Ma in moostekt” elu ‘aro the four figures, the four osama the ‘clock fase, Thee” {refoU | \Vera well. If dis moosick not loud enough, with the whole of the external covering of aig | I send you down dat braes band seven piece tO dome from the level of sixty-seven fect eight | maka dat a secka man focls happy!” inches above the marble work, upward and x, wi ot x feet St abesioun beeen z x ‘dieu. | hatches to FRESH SARDINES FROM MAINE. Wow Little Herring Are Pat Up in Cotton Seed Oil and Tia Boxes. SARDINE IS A LITTLE FISH THAT runs in schools of myriats at certain sra- fons along the coasts of France, Spain and Italy. Noone knows where it comes from or just why it frequents those shores periodically, | but there is no doubt that it is very good to | eat, especially preserved iz olive oil. The busi- Ress of pruparing it in this way isan important industry ia the countries mentioned, and great | were the lamentations a few years ago when for a while it exhibited a disposition to alter ite | habite and sheer off to sca after passing the Straits of Gibraltar on its way north, without Giving the fishermen of the Bay of Biscay, oh! 0 much as achance to make it a captive for the pot. However, there are many kinds of sardines which have done this original species the com- pliment to assume ite name. Norway pute up small herring as “sardines.” So does Japan, exporting large quantities, Germany does an immense export business in “Russian sardines,” Which are simply herring cooked and packed With spices. fore the nco-Prussian war reat quantities of these Russian sardines | were sold in this country. That tremendous conflict interrapted the supply. and dealers on | this side of the water bethought themselves that there was a similar fish, plentiful beyond numbers, in the New England waters which | might be a suitable substitute. From the demand thus unexpectedly originated arose the present DOMESTIC GARDIXE IXDUSTAY. Before that time, early in the sixties, a Maine Packer of lobsters and shell fish named Burn- ham had conceived the idea of utilizing the small herring so plentiful off that coast as® substitute for the sardine. To familiarize him- self with the methods employed in the prepsra- tion of the real article he went to France and made a tour of inspection of thecanneries in that country, taking with him a man, who hired | out ase laborer in the establishments, in order that he might thoroughly familiarize himneelf with the details, Returning to the United States he set up a factory at Eastport and pro- ceeded to can American eatdines. Unforta- nately the fogmy climate was unfavorable to dry- ing the little fi: which is an indispensable preliminary to the cooking of taem. The re- sult was that the moisture remaining in them mixed with the ofl in the cans, ing the lat ter to become tainted and thus imparting an unpleasant flavor, which rendered the product unmarketable. On this account the enterprise was abandoned. ARTIFICIAL DRYING. Nevertheloss, in 1872 it was taken up again by other parties and promptly made a success. The whole difficulty lay in the drying and that has been overcome by artificial process. IN SOUTHERN ECROFE it is possible to dry the little fishes in the sun with sufficient quickness, but not so here, inas- much as the time required is eo long that they become stale. The French method is to cut off the beads iis i eviscerate them as quickly as | which they are dried. So our, muh being accomplished they are ready to be placed in wire baskets and | sub: d in a boiling ealdron of olive oil for two or three minutes, according to their size, after which they are packed in the cans as suugly as possible; the cans are filled with olive oil, with ‘solder and are ready for market. sTrax BEATING. ‘The trouble as to the drying on the Maine const has been got over by utilizing dry heat supplied byafurnace. Steam has also been used for the cooking, the ofl being merely added for preservative purposes in cans. method employed toa great extent is t of the oven, in which the drying and cook- are performed simultaneously. For this rocess the great advan’ is claimed that erring thus treated can be taken from the water and canned fresh in next to no time, only a few minutes being required for the — tion. Thus keep better and have Superior. Saver. dome manninstarers, et, believe that the fish fried in oil are table. On the other band, it is con- it, inasmuch ae for economy's sake the same oil must be used for many batch the fluid seon becomes filled with scales an: refuse, which burn on the bottom and impart to the producta bitter and unpleasant taste. How THEY ARE PACKED. After coming from the frying pan, or the ovens, the herring go into the hands of the packers, usually women, who sort them accord- ing to sizes — them in the boxes, which are then filled with oil. Olive oil, being costly, has been altogether superseded for this purpose by cotton seed and peanut oils,the latter being considered a preferable article. Even in France substitutes are largely employed in the prepara- tion of sardines. The fish are put | up in layers with whole j atter the manner the old-time Russian sardines. Leer or three = pack a few cans annually of large herring. bear- ing the trade name of “brook trout,” but the brand has never been received with conspicu- ous favor. WHERE SMALL RERRING ABOUND. ‘The small herring used by the sardine indus- try are very abundant all along the Maine coast east of the Penobscot. They seem to prefera bold and rocky shore, about which they gather in large numbers for the put of feeding. Un- til recently a favorite method of catching them was by “torching,” which wasa plan a from the Indians, who used it for ever so before the white man landed upon the shores of America. According to this process a wire basket filled with i birch bark is suspended in front of the bow of a boat, which is rowed along the shore at a moderate speed while man stands forward witha dip ‘net and scoops in by the bushel the fish as they gather, attracted by the light. Year by year ‘the supply of birch bark has diminished ‘and the fsbermen bave been ol to go farther a hor ited jong, and farther after it of them substitated for it cotton batting sat- urated with kerosene; but this excited unfavorable notice from the weir fisherm: who claimed that the continued dropping of oil upon the water was likely to drive the fish away from the shore. Accordingly, a law has been revived in Canadiaa waters prohibiting ‘this practice. A curious belief is generaliy ney tater d the fisher folk to the effect that herring caught with torches do not keep fresh nearly so long as those captured in weirs, by which nearly all of the is at present obtained for market. ms +. HOW THEY ARE cavoHT. Formerly the fish were brought to the can- neries by the men who caught them, but the desire of the cauners to secure the largest pos- sible quantities lea them to introduce the prac- tice of sebding forthe fish, which has since become universal. “A fleet of 125 boats, with about 200 men, are now regularly employed in collecting inning them to the facior: ‘All haves holds in the center, covered with ‘protect the herring from ders himself ible, not only % overwhelmed at the end of the day. the support of his wile, but. for that of her Nothing seemed beyond his marvelous pow- | parents, in case they should become destitu flothes. Here the other day a funny incident happened. A raw-looking couple came in | took the elopers’ seat. ‘ine dock was full everything was as still as could be, whem she suddenly ittered: take down my bangs.’ this, for ber hat was | wa or mue- | in | ness and his scholarship, combining militar CANDIDATES FoR BLISS. Country Lads and Lassies on Their Way te, Make Kunaway Marriages. From the Courier-Journal She wore a red hat, upon which a green bird Perched. and there was country med on his j thoes. Her dress hung down too far upon one fide, and hie face was redder than an autumnal Sunset. They eatin the ferry dock at the foot Of Ist streot waiting for the boat to take them over to Jeffersonville. There was quite a crowd of people in the dock at the time, and this rural couple was the center of attraction. No one felt like smiling for fear it would destroy the picture, and, be- Sides, the young man looked like be wasas fond of fighting as farming. Her hand was covered by a fold of her dress and his tenderiv clasped it. They thonght was looking, but every one was intently watching it. An es: wessure caured her cheeke to glow rightness, and she shyly don't, scone here,” remarked we, the dock keeper. “I see them nd. Of course, have become used to y, and are going be married. Ae ws ins saved ap about enough to tke Her inther, im all proba 1, has «whole troupe ©, and is real glad ng Tan is willing to elope. with course he would net obj but then it is cheaper to elope, and the eempio will ha y with Which to estab im. Ili venture to eay when up that green bird will still Upon that red hat when she probably a farm hand. wh #10, and he thinks he j« ri unto bineelf can tell acountry conple the minute ~ come in, even if they dress well and their muhnersaregood. They are very loving end they don't care along «lim bean who k : always sit down in the end of the counter, and I he count Tstand behind the . end listen. He says somethi the old folks will eny when they get e titters aud whispers that she Then he'll ask her what ebe thinks say when they find it ont, and she cute little laugh of triumph ‘and nes- Then he langhs, too, and they each whg at each otber. wen they want to appear as old fl dexire to create the i sion that they are not elopers he will ark ber in an off-hand way if ho would like to bave she would ine timd f she were afraid bs; 1 spend all elf in in this reckless bag with the pea- high cig: about nuts in it and takes ont about two himself. She takes one and they both act nervous, wishing at bought the peanuts. Th hing. eecms to attract attention. Both . and al bok back veg and he drops luis through # crack Then they both look up to see if ‘one ef them seem to think much about apers showed plainly. Ther i t they Erpers howe 5 ¥ looked as it they'd floor cave in with them for a d and took off Ler fe to hold. Up went and ina twinkling her mouth wus 8 and six or n gimlet-looking on her Smo. thing them out with her fin, she suddenis grabbed the hat with one Land and flopped it on her head in the same careless way # man would do. They don't think about style. _Bat then we have hig wears kid gloves and ix quite dudisi, while dresses in the height of fashion. ‘Then actes cool and calm as porsible, and think they are fooling us dock people, but we know them all ned couples. He the ‘same. We know ‘the little loving atten- tions, for we have seen them many a time. Once a handsome couple came in, and the y rat down and talked about the weather and the river and kindred time-honored topics. There ras not a sign of the eloper about their ac- tions. I thought they wore just friends until the boat drew near, and he arose to bur tickets. As he did so he gave her # loving glance, as if toeay, “Darling, I must leave you to get these tickets, but it will only be foratime. The mask fell with this glance, and 1 nodded to the matrimonial agent, who was loitering on the dock. A moment’ Inter he had them in tow and was taking them to arate wits whom be was in league? et Chere was quite a rash a while back andone Four trimonial agent made $22 in one day. couples came down on the Kanawha For the [st few days, though, busin has been slack. ‘In consequence 1 sold many peanuts, Country elopers always buy peanuts, and there is a demand for them continually. It is really comical to see a coun- try eloper treat his wife-to-be to n glass of soda water. He gives her a barroom glance and ly saysor starts to say, ‘What'll you ———.9> Italy's Next King. Brom the London Times. I saw Victor Emmanuel, Prince of Naples, two days ago, and was struck with the satisfac- tion he evinced at his visit to England. He is one of those who entertain the greatest admira- tion for English character and institutions, for the simple reason that he is one of the most seriously cultivated minds of his generation. He has had the good fortune of having as governor Col. Osio, known both for his strict- knowledge with a wide’ acquaintance Latin ond Italian authors, and the young prince began and continued an education rarely given ton heir apparent. When, therefore, @ short time ago the king desired an edition of Dante to be dedicated to the prince, M. Bonghi could say that few young men bad had eo thorough an education and that few bad so protited by it. Now thet be has reached manhood he thinks it an ¢s- sential complement to the education of « prince of our days to see for himuseif the babite, ocoupations and internal organization of the natiohs having th: most advanced institutions, at the head of which he natarally places Eng- land. He much regrets not having been im England at the same time as the roung German emperor, of whom he isa grost admirer, and mid whose attitude he would like to have seen the demonstrations which welcomed England. He is colonel of an infantry regi- ment, which regiment had long ago been as- signed to take part in the recent manenvers. The king and bis military chiefs suggested to him either orn prince refused, stat- ing that military duties could not be sacrificed to any otber consideration; that as crown prince commanding « regiment he was more bound than anybody to set his sab diers in the army the example of sacrk ficing other things to military obligations. Im like manner, when returning from hie vorage to the east. of which he had taken many notes, he rephed to an old tutor who asked bim why he did not publish a volume on not write one because I could truth.” The prince speaks and German with equal fluence; walking dictionary on history He inherits from his mother a study and grent anxiety to exten edge, while from his fether.a king alwi ready to sacrifice himself to the humblest of bis subjects, 60 simply heroic in the dangers of life and works of charity, he inherits a strong feeling of self-denial and philantaropy. i am gonvinced that be will be one uf the most en incely guests whr:n England an@ her royal Seoaty tame greeted on British soil. ——see Not Divorced From His Mother-in-Law. Parts Letter iu tue Pali Mall Gazette. Itis probably not generally known in Eng- land that on this side of the channel a man om entering into the holy bonds of matrimony ren- reat his _knowl- and the same obligation is incurred by the ite the fother and mother of her hus i itr gagScletger ee allie il i H Hi a