Evening Star Newspaper, February 8, 1890, Page 9

THE BLACK ART. —-_— Cunning Tricks and Curious Plays By Experts. —_———_— HUMORS OF THE PLATFORM. Sa How the Stage Head is Cut Off—Curing Headache by Decapitation—Thrust- ing & Sword Through tho Body— Magic Made Pinin. _—— Y EVERAL rays of light have been tarown by a Chicago /eraid investiga- tion upon the mystery of the “black art.” Here is a condensation of the Heraid's article: For a nomber of years the masterpieces of Herrmann have been his two decapitations. The first oue he usually uses in his magical sketch, where a countryman with “a sorter buzzing” in his head has it cured by cutting off the offending member. The subject takes a seat in a high-backed, upholstered chair. ‘The long back of the chair is thickly padded and has two sitk cords runniug crosswise on it, one from the inner edge of either arm up to the top corner of the opposite side, thus making 2 broad X. The snbjeet being seated fn a chair, a large helmet or “receiver” is placed on his head. This helmet is made of any bright metal, has a vizor in front and is open at the back_ After it is placed over his head the vizor is lifted to show that the head is there. but in real- aty a dummy head is seen. made up to represent the sub- ject. As = here cAPITATION cuamR, jormer closes the visor he tits the helmet forward a littio, while | the subject at the same moment draws his bead out of it and presses it back against the beck of achair, which gives way under the pressure and a triangniar e ees, the two sides of which are formed by the lower portion of the X in the padding, the base being ona ith the chair arm, where this swinging jon of the back is hinged on. On this flap, the opening of wich is concealed by the receiver and a towel placed in front of it to hide the blood (7). rests the head of the subject. The receiver is now removed and placed on a small cabinet, the towel being left at the neck of the subject in the chair. Ina moment the receiver is removed from the top of the cabinet end the head is seen resting there; it moves and spenke and is the bead of another person, made up to represent the first ove and who sits behind the mirror in the cabinet and pops his head up througit a hols in the top of it as soon as the receiver is placed there. This cabinet is shaped like a safe and contains several apparently deep shelves, In reality the shelves are shallow. a mirror of roper size being placed in it in such a posi- oy as to leave about four-fifths of the cabinet vacant. A DRED OF DEVILTRY. ‘The very latest decapitation is the one now being used by Herrmann in his “black art.” In “black art” the stage is peculiarly set, the in- terior from the first to the third croove being completely bung in black velvet or felt, back, top and sides, In place of the ordinary foot- lights a row of gas jets is usually placed across the stage just on a line with the inside of the boxes, and another row carried around, but outside of the arched* entrance to the black chamber. The effect of this arrangement of light and shadow throws the atege into impenetrable gloom. Herrmann ap- years suddenly, clothed in white. Then ephistopheies appears so suddeniy that it | seems as if he had jumped out of space, but really coming through an opening | ja the black cloth, Then comes a} light cloak and a pretty woman in evening dress, the latter beimg Mra. Herrmann dressed in # peculiar way. Sho first Wraps herself ina black domino of the same | material as the stage hangings. leaving her | arms and head tree. Over this she now slips a frame work of light wira covered with a fine evening dress. This frame work has no back and she can slip out from it bebind. leaving the shell with dress, For the lady to sit on two pedestais suddenly appear. These are white and appear by having a corer of black pul ppm yo me of these is put 2 feet highandtheotherabout #® DECAPITATION 65 feet high. The lady CantaEr. onthe smaller one and Mephisto orders a eut her — off. After Doogie de- murring he finally seizes a carving kuife, places @ light cloak over the lady's shoulders and cuts off her head. Taking it with one hand under the chinand the other holgjpg her hair he carries it across the stage and™places it on the other pedestal. she walking along with him, haviag slipped out behind the frame work, leaving it upright on the smaller pedestal. She walks across the stage in her black domino or behind ablack sereen shonider high, only her head showing, and finally stopping with ber head on the pedestal that is abont 5 feet high. To replace, the same gliding back is again employedand she again resumes her dress case, and the trick is over. A SPHINE IN HARD LUCK. ‘The old triek, or rather illasion, of the talk- ing bead, generally knowm as the “Sphinx,” in which two mirrors are placed at right angles in a table to conceal the tainment “oo — years ago that made considerable rri- ment. A certain Pro- BE FORGOT TO DRAW IN fessor Martino was giv- Bis LEGs. ing a gift show through his state, and having hard luck obliged to leave part of his ontit in a certain town as se- curity for bis board bill He reached Bloom ington, where he held forth at ‘Schroeder’ aud bad advertised to give the “talking head’ as his a attraction, in addition to giving away 200 useful articles, He bad an audience of about 2.000, but his tricks were bad, and their execution worse. Such bungliag’ was Rever seen, yet the gifts smoothed over much of that, though t yi did not prevent some hiss- ing at his bad effects. @ accompanying sketch shows how he made up a talking head im a burry to save his fortune. This was “caught on to” and greatly hissed at by the | bors. Thongh the “Sphinx” pulled in his legs the boys still hissed till the pelice came in aud stopped them. He had a crowded honse every night he showed, and a few days after along came Hartz, the most skillful performer living, Lat he drew only thirty-six people in the honse. Sucb was the power of gifts in those days. Now it is changed and far more skill is required. THE CARD Tanart, A modern trick and a yery popniar one is Known as the “mysterious card target.” Four cards are selected from a pack from the andi- ence. placed in a pistol eud fired at s bandker- chief, —< ——— they iminediately appear and can be taken of and handed out for identifi- : estion. This is very effective and so simple that any can © cards end sort out one L-— pack, consisting, say, of Cans ox WANDEER- twenty-eight cards, cutzr. seven each of four kinds; for instance, seven of ace of diamonds, seven of queen of S, goren of ki of hearts and seven of of clubs. Now have these together, exch seven by themselves; nobody will think’ but that it is an ordinary pack. Next have a rather large handkerchief of dark color, ly two hand- kerchiefs, one sewed right over the other half way round, leaving a flap of half the size ‘ker- chief. On the inner side of this flap stitch or glue two of the cards, and on the of first handkerchief which is covered bythe loose fastea the other two cards as in sketch. Al the andience to select four cards, taking eare that they get one each of the sets oa have in pack, k so they must card from the middle, and as you ou Count over into right pumber of cards the next set. Thus they are sure to get cards. Then load them in a pistoi,or drop the flap A, which falis down against the lower halt hg and the cards are revealed and mony be taken off and examined. A large shot sewed in each corner flap A will facilitate the falling of it. It should also be stitched across the center in order that it may fall flat and closely. THE FISH IN THE BOWL. Probably the most popular trick that was ever invented is the production of bowls of wa- ter and fish froma handkerchief, It fs usu- ally the first one that attracts the attention of the ambitious amateurs, Many fail once, and never attempt it again. A failure can at any time take place; even the great Hecrmann often fails in it, and has repeatedly drenched himself with water,losing both dish and rabber cover on the floor, for it is done with a rubber cover that fits snugly over a glass bowl. The bowl is filled with water to about a half inch from the top and the cover put on after the fish are placed in the water, ¢! —— these are often omitted; then the bowl is placed under the armpit. Usnally three bowls are used. one under cach armpit and one in a sack hung be- hind the vest under the coat, Any large band- kerchief is used and thrown carelessly over the shoulder, under cover of which the bowl is gotten ont into the hand, and the hand- kerchief is removed, taking with it the rub- ber cover. TRE TRANSPARENT TURK. Ax illusion that has lately attracted consid- erable attention aronnd dime museums has been that of the “transparent Turk,” who was supposed to have been shot through the body, leaving a hole which could be scen through. This is simply an adapt- ation of the old trick of looking through abrick. The person wears a largo hollow belt under his clothes, with mir- rors at right angles in each of the curves it makes and an oval glass at exch opening in frout and back, the cos- tume of a Tnrk being such that it easily con- ceals the openings and glasses. On this same principle is the trick of running a sword through a person’s body. The sword is of very thin. elastic steel and the performer wears around his body a hollow metai eit, and if another person runsthe sword through the erformer it is usuaily one who understands ioe hu dene vad pushes it against his breast, where the small opening guides it, and atthe back the openi ed that the point out, The sketch THE sworD THROUGH HIS BODY. explains it. THE MAdTC FLOWER, Harry Kellar's tricl: that he makes the most 07 is one of parely American invention, but so old that, besides himself, there are only two or three others traveling who make use of it, It was first taken to Europe from the states by the performer known some thirty or more years ago as Professor Stodare, who first showed the “Sphinx.” Hartz used it a number of years ago. and now Kellar is using it constantly. it is the production of several large pote filled ith danaee Gems an empty cone. Three bushes of flowers are usually produced, Con- sequently three smail stands are on the stage, | each one having a suspicious reminder of the past in magic, a3 each has fine drapery around it, reaching to within about a foot or more of the tloor. Behind this drapery, and a little above the lower eud of it, isa shelf on which rests the flower pot and flowers, covered with a cone, Each table is thus prepared, usually the first table having flowers and cone, the other two generally hay- ing ' the same incinding the pot. The first pot is shown s1mpty, and down through the cone is dropped 2 bud, which was held palmed inthe hand. As attention is being called to this the performer drops the empty cone just shown down behind the table over the cone and brings all up inside the cone, stepping away from the table quickly over tothe other one, The cone fits closely into the first one shown, and the fingers on the side at the top of the cone hold the inner one fast to- gether, with the flow- ers, though these are usually kept in position by 2 thread slipped ma eut in the top of the conc. The flowers, or flowers and pot to- gether, are allowed to TRONT VIEW. drop out on top of the table from the cone or into the pot, as the case may be; and as soon ag the cone is removed the hand naturally and carelessly drops down behind with it over an- other one onthe shelf, and again the performer ickly walks over to another table and pro- duces it. Thus he proceeds until all are pro- duced. To facilitate the picking up of the cones one after the other, and that no extra motions are necessary, the back of the top of each stand is ent out in crescent shape. This cannot be observed by the audi- ence. It follows thus, that at the end of the trick the performer has four cones in his hand, one imside of the other. The flowers used are usually the best quality of artificial ones, though Kellar keeps the trick very popular and makes it very ex- pensive by aiwaya using real flowera, even in the midst of winter. This gives him a KEAR VIEW. chance to killa great deal of tune in cutting each one off of the tine wire on which it is fastened inorder that he may precast them to the ladies, The two cuts show both front and rear views of the stands. The cone used is usually about 4 inches across the smaller end, 8 inches acroas the wider end and about Winehes long. The proportion of stands, flowers and cones as to size vary according to the size or heightof the performer, many of whom use chairs instead of stands, The trick has not been popular of late years, owing to the suspicious drapery. HAVE YOU GOT @ DOG? If so, by All Means Keep Him in the House in the Night Time. “Tf there had been a dog in Secretary Tracy’s house the other night—even though it were only a measly yellow cur—this awful disaster would not have occurred; at all events, there would have been no loss of life.” it was the policeman patrolling Farragut Square who made the remark,in conversation with a Stan reporter, he continued, “I consider a dog in the house at night of as much importance for protection against fire as to scare away robbers, The animal is always on the alert to warn his Master and the family of anything that may | appear tobe wrong. If auything like flames or smoke excite bis attention ho will at once begin barking. The very smell of fire will start him to giving a jond alarm, Nol knows better than he the dangers of burning. He is always on the watch as he lies outside his master's door for the safoty of the household. I should never think of being without a dog at night in my own dwelling, and [ tell you that ifthere had beea such a four-legged friend domiciled within the Secretary's walls last Sun- day night the deaths would never have oc- curred. The family would have been awakened 'y as the smell of smoke became per- ceptible to the beast’s keen nostrils by vocif- erous barking, instead of being left to beslowly suffocated in their sleep. Ali would have got- ten out safely and the very house would prob- ably have escaped destruction, Therefore, I my beep @ dox aud have him im the house at night.” ——_—_ Love’s Seasons. The wall-flowers to the frolic wind Do dance their golien aigelets, An elf-maids steal the hawthorn beads ‘Tho spring is here, the spring is hero— The love-ume of the year, my dear! All beavy bang the apple boughs, Wenghed down 7 wale ot yellow gold; The poppy cups, so fiery bright, Me seems would burn the hearts they hold, The summer's here, the summer's here— ‘Tho Kiss~cime of the yesr, my dear. The birds are winging for the south, ‘the eif-maids haste them to their And dandelion balls do float Like si:ver ghosts of golden flowers, ¢ Autuinn's here, the autumn's here— ‘The wife-time of the yoar, my dear! Tian cco the heavens pet mace greg Than are the eyes of her [ love; More dainty white than her sweet breast The snow lies not the earth above. bowers, But love ture nots the Jour, my dena re-thas , Tarper's “Maguamne. —Ayeiis RIVES ““Doctor, haven't you been attend> on old i we" —"Yes.” “How is he “He is beyond reach of medical assist ‘ance, I fear.” “What! Ishe i “Oh, no, He's "—-Medical Times and THE DRESS COAT. When It Should Be Worn and When Not. THE DECREES OF FASHION. If it, bes frock coat it will always Fhe tock goods made up ina Ne atitehed. perp ilii k is cone: 2S very gad coat ie proper ing. Under cir- cumstances a silk hat is wore, rm AT THE COMING OF EVENING the fashionable man appears in renewed glory. His afternoon chat at the club, his drive or his What It Costs to Maintain a Complete | afternoon visit to the theater, or all three, Wardrobe—The Kind of Clothes Suite | having been attended to new ob! able Fer Particular Occasions—Hew ‘Te Drews in Good Taste, —-_—- Correspondence of Tar EVENING Stan. New York, February 7, are to be met. It may be a dinner, it may be an evening at the opera or it may be both, but at any rate achange of dress is required and of course is made. The evening cout, made in the latest style, is very different from what it used to be, The goods are different, ‘They are of avery fine diagonal. This is the material that Col. Owens Williams has made the fashion in London, as has been stated HERE is no subject which so agi- | before, and the highest authorities say that it tates the mind of the average New York man-about-town as when and where to wear a dress coat, The great is for the time being the correct thing, a0 it must be so. The coat is cut with a heavy roll tothe collar. In other respects the evening dress is not materially changed. ‘There is the authority on all social matters just at pres-| white lawn tic, there are the patent leather ent, the generalissimo of society, Mr, Ward | Shoes and there is the usual silk hat, after McAllister, has recently laid down the broad general principle that a man may wear a dress coat at any time after dark. It makes no the style set by London. The crash hat for any occasion has gone out of date and is a thing of the past at the opera or ; *nywhere cise. The oracles among the tailors difference whether he be going to the opera, a | 8ay that certain pereous are taking liberties dinner or a dog fight, he is appropriately cos- tumed in a swallow-tailcoat. But there is no law, further adds Mr. McAllister, that will permita man to wear a dress coat in daylight, and the man who does so, ie avers, is simply a bore who does not understand the usages of good society, Of course there is no disputing so high an authority as McAllister and in’ this merry month, when there are so many social gayetics on foot, it is peculiarly appropriate to settle the controversy; and, it may be added as a matter of information, that not only do New Yorkers, young and old, who desire to be con- sidered well-dressed attend the theater aud opera in evening dress but they make it a point to get out of the usual humdrum of bnsi- ness costumes by putting on a dress coat for the most ordinary lecture, concert or evening tertainment. The howling sweils of the Knic! erbocker elub, the Calumet, the Union League and the University club are just as regular in arraying themselves in evening costume seven nights in the week as they are in putting on their overcoats to go into the street. These ewells follow the style of London and Paris in this respect, and even in the New York athletic club, an organization famed more for its brawn than for anything else, are to be seen scores and scores of men in evening dress every night in the week. ‘Time was, and not so long ago | either, when a dress suit was considered very much of a luxury by the average fian. It is with the style of evening dress which are de- cidedly improper. An article of dress which has lately struck the fancy of the leaders of the fashions for men, particularly the younger among them, is known as the Cowes coat, and is an extremely comfortable garment. This jacket is dark and has a silk collar rolled to the tirst bntton low down on the breast. It hay but two pockets, One is on the left breast outside and one on the right breast inside of the jacket. It is complained sadly by sticklers for the cor- rect thing that some Philistines among those whoatfect this jacket go so far as to wear it to formal dinners. This is all wrong, they say. The Cowes jacket is intended to be worn at in- formal dinners at home or the ciub, and should be no more worn on state occasions than it should be to business, FULL EVENING DRESS. This may seem of little importance to the ordinary person, but artists say it is a matter of much consequence. Of course the master- pe of the tailoring art is none of those that have been described. After business, after the drive, the ciub, the theater or the formal dinner comes the crowning event, the special ball, when Ward McAllister s hosts are gathered and the picked flowers of society are displayed on the broad floor of the opera house. Such an affair is one calling for greater display than adinuer or even an opening night at the opera. For the special ball, according to the high authority mentioned above, a full and not so now, and, thanks to the tailors, dress | Complete change of attire must be made, In suits are made more comfortable. Instead of being tight-fitting and generally unpleasant | #Fé Of the rough material now the rage, they are made loose and as agreeable in every way as the ordinary business suit. WHEN TO WEAR A DRESS CosT. There is another subject equally as import- | the sides, ant to the young New Yorker as the matter of | hat, the matter of the coat and trousers the oe i this is worn a white silk dress vest: white wash- ing linen is also worn, The vest has small figures uponit. Patent leather dancing pumps, worn with silk stockings with clock work on also form part of the outfit. A silk of course, tops this outfit. With the full when and where to wear a dress coat, It is | dress ball costume no regular top coat of the what constitutes a well-dressed man! The subject of woman's vanity in the matter of dress has occupied the attention of the human family for so long a period that man’s vanit; has been jost sight of. Let us be honest wit Meu are quite as vain as women New Yorker who poses asa club man, a first-nighter, a diner-out, &c., spends as much time in getting together his wardrobe as | !¢ss, and as worn haa large kind affected on other occasions is now worn, Its place has been taken by THE INVERNESS CAPE, which for the purpose for which it is used is held to be far superior to the ordinary over- coat. This cape is made of a heavy blu2 or black rough goods called elysian, It is arm- lowing wings that does the fashionable woman and this wardrobe | Cover the arms, while it is so made that the costs nearly as much asa trousseau! Without | Chest, illy dwelling on the gorgeous silken underwear. protected as itis by the open dress coat, is well covered and shielded by it. Thus how furnished at’ prices ranging from $6 to | the Lavernss, while being casler toput on and #20 a suit, the luxurious bath robes, the | take off in a rash than a top coat would be, is variety of neckwear that is needed, the num- also wi er. Ot courss, in addition to these berless pairs of boots and other accessories too | Various suites of clothes’ that tho fashionable numerous to mention, it may be said that the | ™u of today wears at business, ut the club, on fashionable man’s wardrobe is a thing of | fshionable occasions, at the theater and else- beauty, if not a joy forever. A few years azo in New York city one promi- nent man became a conspicuous character tor the reason that it wes solemnly set forth by a leading metropolitan newspaper that he wore 365 “boiled shirts” every year, or one for each day. Robert Garrett. formerly of the Balti- more and Ohio railroad,achieved distinction by reason of the vast stock of trousers of many styles that he sported. ‘There was atime when the leading newspa- Pers gave up column after column for a couple of weeks to a contest for the title of the king of the dudes between E. Berry Wall and Robert Hilliard, the actor, the contest to be decided by the amount of originality displaged in dressing from day to day. Tho pair dressed in number- Jess suits of clothes, of all sorts of patterns and design, and kept the show up until the public tired of it. ‘THE WELL-DRESSED MAN. where, there are adjuncts, side issues or any- thing of that sort you may choose to call them. If he is at Tuexdo Park or at any other place in the country he can have considerable liberty. He can knock about in sack suits of Sota cheviot of rather a t color, With this he will wear a dark scarf, and, if he chooses, the old-style Alpine hat instead of the stiff derby. He may wear the same sack suits in traveling. . Again, the man of fashion need not change his foot geur more than three times. To business he may wear gaiters, varnished usually by his own man. He may wear the same in the afternoon. With evening dress the patent leathers come and for the ball he wears patent leather pumps. Itis pretty much the same with the topcoat. The top coat worn during the day will do for anything save for driving and for ovening wear. "So with an Inverness cape and two top coats the man of fashion can struggle along very well, just as he can with three hate There are few men who are not willing to|and three pairs of shoes. Of course most of pose as well-dressed men if they can, But it | them do not travel on so narrow a limit, but costs something to dress up to the standard set | they could if it were necessary, now by the first-class tailors, and these tailors, by the way, do not class the E. Berry Wall en. The real authority on the art of tailor- ing in New York city puts it down that the well-dressed man uever dresses after the dude fashion, “The really well-dressed man now dreases very quietly,” said the artist, “There is very little difference between the styles here and in England. The leading styles are set in THE Cost. The hunting suits and polo suits that many style of men as among the really well-dressed | of them are obliged to keep on hand are not mentioned here, for they really do not figure in the every-day life of the average man of fashion, Nor are the styles of jewelry referred to, for the reason that while it is an unwritten rule thatthe well-dressed men shall wear not too much jewelry there seems to be no cast- England and are followed here. A well-dressed | 100 Jaw in the matter, as there are in some Englishman and a well-dressed American are much the same thing, except that the Ameri- hess tailor sometimes improves on the imported styles.” The same authority went on to say that it is an impression in many quarters that the prince of Wales sets the fashions in the matter of dress, but that he does not any more than docs his interesting son, who is familiarly known as “Collars and Cuffa.” On the contrary, the fashions are mainly set by the military men, the members of thé home regiments, who aro the best dressed men in England, although not always the best payers. The bright un 1 shinin; light among these “milingtary gents” is Col. Owens Williams of the Life Guards, who has lately distinguished himself by leading a suc- cessful revolt against the using of corkscrew or Giagonal goods in the making of frock coate, He was the first to have hs coats made of the rough dark goods that are now the proper thing. The earl of Clonmel is a nobleman who sete the pace for Londoners, and Lord Ran- dolph Charcbill is a fixed figure on the fashion (peme Then there are the Tracys, the Stan- opes and others who figure in the same line. THE DAILY OFFICIAL PROGRAM laid down for the man who wants to rank among the properly dressed men is rather ex- other thin; Figuring on the lines laid down above—and they strike a fair average of the ontfit of the ordinary man of fashion—it was not hard to estimate what it costs to dress really wol! just at this time. The fignres fur- nished by the authority before mentioned put it something like this: ° Morning business suit. 975 Morning wedding suit. Evening dress... Full dress suit (for ball). Afternoon suit (for the etre 20 Top coat (for the street) 85 Top coat (tor driving). 85 Dinner jacket or Cowes coat. 55. Inverness cape coat 100 Hats (three)... 30 Shoes (three pairs). 30 TOU ss cnceuscail ais ensoy + 8845 The total shows the average cost of the out- fits that a man of fashion is called upon to use almost every day and that he must, at any rate, keep im stock. If all the extras were added it would amount toa great deal more, The fre- quency with which they must be renewed is also another matter that makes it difficult to estimate properly. But the figures given are sufficient to show that in order to be what the leading artistic tailors call “a well-dressed tensive. In order to carry it out fully and to man” one must be anything buta really poor the letter one spends a not inconsiderable por- tion of the day when there is any occasion calling for the observance of its various parts, Inthe matter of the morning dress its full man. Only birds can wear fine feathers nowa- days without paying for them in good solid cash and plenty of it, +e. —_____ makeup will depend on the locality in which] GLIMPSES AT FASHION’S WHIMS. you may be situated, The broker who is to be seen on his way to business in the morning will | Small Talk About What Women Are be found to be dressed in a dark or medium sack or cutaway coat, usually of some rough ‘oods, The trousers, too, will usually be of ‘k or mixed goods and the derby bat may be brown or black. The tie will be of black satin with a small pin just below the knot. This tie Wearing and Will Wear. Tue Sorter Sixxs are preferred because of their peculiar draping and clinging qualities, Sout Friis aNp Janors of gauze and lisse was the fashion about ten years ago. It was | freshen up passe dresses wonderfully, finally discarded, but is coming back into vogue again. The top coat will be cither dark or medium and the gloves of ten color. With this attire the broker, if such he be, can face Tue Same Lace Errecrs of last season will be continued for early summer wear, Anon THe New Goons for spring Irish pop- the cares of the day without feeling that he is | lin will be one of the foremost articles, anything but “proper,” so far as dress 18 con- corned, and any the same. AT A MORNING WEDDING. The well-dressed man has stopped at his office long enough to look over his mail and transact some necessary preliminary busi- ness for the day, when thore is another call upon him, This time itis to attend a morn- Tus New Frencu Portis is made with alace- other business man may do | work stripe and is exceedingly handsome. Late Wrxren Cosromrs show the extremes of piainness and picturesqueness in shapes and of dullness and brightness in colors, For Brp Room Use velvet slippers bordered with fur have become popular. Burrons have very little prestige for dresses ing wedding of a friend. A cab is procured | #24 mantles, the fancy being for invisble and in a few moments he is at his home again, | trimmings. It is necessary to change his clothing. Some time ago he would have donned a frock coat of ag he cS ste: jects a ck coat made of dark Saxony cloth, rather rough. The Srousers are of light color. A white tie, hy is selected for wear, or, if not a white . one very light in color. A straight, loose- back top coat, all, and then the prospective atte: t at the marriage ceremouy dons a silk hat, pulls on, lavender-colored gloves with black stitching’ and he is ready for the fray, wedding over, there is another the U teed ding breakfast; and if business be suit of the morning is again donned and j é : : E i to that important center where the money.is made that enables him to keep dressing. k in color, is adjusted over | favorite and will last Sox of the velvet gowns are in the gorgeous robe fashion affected by Roman matrons during the middle ages. Donixe the entire season brocaded camel's | hair material held the lead as the most stylish, Tnx “Surprise” Gowy in light blue cloth, trimmed with blue and silver buttons, is still a h the season. small bonnets, He thinks a bonnet should frame the face more or less, Frat Smozs for the house are without heels attends the wed- | 8nd fastened on at the instep with embroidered: urgent the | ribbon, in popularity, bed A 3 lone pm aon te ih glay om at forgotten.—New yi BRED FOR BEAUTY Training of English Women and Its Results. SECRETS OF A LADY'S MAID. From Corset to Corenet—Contents of Teliete Boxes—Making Up the Face For Day and Evening—What Chil- dren Should Eat. —_—_—. Written for Tux Evantxe Stan, (Copyrighted. ) HERE is nothing on any toilet not producible before any one, unless you object to this rice powder, to take off a flushed look sometimes,” The highly-bred American woman who spoke lay in an easy Vienn’ lounging chair before a large marauise toilet stand. White, gold and rose Worcester vases with silver tops held choice French scents and es- sences, slender crystal flagons of cherry blos- som and the new honeysuckle odor per- fumed the room as _ their stoppers were drawn, and the Rose du Barri powder boxes breathed still daintier fragrances, Chemists will tell you it is possible to get finer scents in powders or soaps than they can secure in liquid extracts, A cabinet in rosewood with porcelain doors, and minia- tures charmingly painted, disclosed in its vel: vet interior stores of china jars and gilt and crystal fagons and boxes of porcelain and onyx with screw tops—perfumed, ob, how it was per- famed—and a drawer of the toilet table showed glittering silver and ivory implements in ex- quisite keeping which would have won a col- lector’s fancy eens finish and carving. “I can't bear to have anything commen about my rooms,” the owner said, noticing tho admiration which complimented her pretty setting. spend on second-rate personal ornaments I altar to vanity, Instead of hideous non- descript gatherings of china, Hungarian, Doulton, Swiss and grotesque faience, I choose very few things of the best design and color- ing possible for their places. Those pieces are Baltimore porcelain, the most deheately artistic in America, aud those are Cincinnati, the best, you know, and worth ai! they cost. That little turquoise-studded flask was sent trom Mexico, that cut-glass vase with strings of pink and yellow pearls is home manufac- ture, of brook pearls from New England. That tuormaline stopper is from Maine. The work is by clever people all over the country, for every village almost nowadays has some- body who does nice things in ont-of-the- work. That carved pearl box is by a soldier on the plains. As to what is in them you shall know after a while.” GOOD LOOKS OF ENGLISH WOMEN. “We have the advantage here,” she went on to say, “that three-fourths of our people have the chance for plenty to eat and good intelii- gence, which gives a fair sort of good looks to start with. But it isn’t bred to last, as English women are, Why, Lady Mary Holland atsixty had the most marvelous teeth and hair, and, eyes like diamonds, and cheeks beginning to wrinkle, but fair as an American wife at thirty-five. The work is done at the beginning, We are not half carefui enough about a girl's eating. Itell you there must be a difference between the complexion of one who is sent to school and fed on the pastry and biscuits and boiled rice and cheese, which are the staples of boarding school fare, from Fitth avenue to the Hudson river seminaries, and an English nursery table, where every morsel is choice.the rolls and mutton and fruit of the best, and the butter sweet, creamy and delicate. Did you ever realize what four-fifths of Americans put into their mouths in shape of butter, and how much it has'to do with spoiling the complexion? T never did till I went to England and sat at the best country house tables. I thiuk the fogs and the butter and matton did ag much for my complexion as anything. THR NURSERY TABLE, “TI tell you a slice of well-done English mutton is about the best thinga child can have to eat to make good flesh and skin. , They really cat more fruit than we do. in the shape of jum and compotes. Our children would turn up their noses at the tabie served at the duke of H—'s nursery. ‘Thick slices of coarse brown bread — but Low sweet it waa, and how Lady Mary and I used to like to go in for slices of it after our long walks mornings—c1 P of creamy milk, sipped slowly, not tossed off at a draught, which the head nurse said made cheese in our insides; delicious cocoa sometimes, and jam and marmalade and compotes and wall fruit in plenty. If the smallest pimple or redness ap- peared on the face of « her grace was sure to call for an account, the cas- tle doctor was summoned, and diet and salines prescribed till the spot was cured. Each month the dentists called and examined the teeth of every one of the family, filmgan edge here or touching the enamel there with a preparation which kept off decay and left no need of gold filling. Do you know how many people are poisoned by decay- ing teeth? They suffer with dyspepsia and bad complexions from nothing else than the con- stant drainaye of bad matter from an imper- fect tooth or two. Our complexions depend upon our stomachs and internal economy, aud this a thoroughbred English mother. fully understands, or her governesses and doctors know itfor her. We smile at the idea of eat- ing five times a day, as the English do; but if we were outof doors in all weather us they are, for their tremendous walks or rides, we could eat, too, and eat less after all than (e-class American family at three meals, ENGLISH BATUS, “Then the baths are a part of English upper- class religion. Each chiid gets out of its bed intoa bath, and puts on fresh clothes daily from the skin out, and after I was nsed to it = can't think how miserable it seemed over ere to see well-to-do girls put on the same under linen they took off at night. Like using the same towel twice over, ‘hen, say all the family were out of doors four or five hours every day for rich color, or mist for fairness, as the nurse maid used to say there was nothing like a Scotch mist for giving a Scotch com- plexion. “Those maids, again, are treasures, The best ones mean. My face was rough after the steamer fare crossing, the first time I went over, and the maid at the castle was quite dis- tressed about it, At nightshe came in witha poultice of houseleek, on linen cloths, which she must put on my poor face and sit by me an hour or two to renew it and then put on toilet cream of her own making, and admin- ister a dose of pills, a box of which she relig- iously presented me when I sailed for home as 8 sovereign for the complexion. WASHING IN DEW. “Imagine the maids going out to wet damask towels in the dew to wash their ladies’ faces with, and wetting handkerchief in it by night to lay on the cheeks while sleeping. If you don’t believe there is anything in it don’t say so till you try it, There was Lady Florence P—, celebrated for her complexion, who never washed her face in anything buat napkins left out in dow summer. Then for color ar had the most marvelous decoction, distilled, the: i from carrots, an amber liquid. which, brushe: on the cheeks, left no mark at first but presentl; bloomed in the softest pink bi whic! wouldn't rab off or wash off any too easily. Ob, the delight after nights in hot gas lit rooms of under the hands off one of those clever who never needed to be told anything, but slipped of your things and brought your cup of tes, or chocolate, and bathed your arms and face and neck with lavender spirits or rosemary water or elder flower cream, and rubbed your ts and your back softly till you fell Pp. larly barrels of sea water were sent to house, for the ladies’ use, and you have no idea how and supple oue feels after having rubbed with bric-a-brie and spend on this They are “The money other people | her thronzh her toilet devotions. To tasia perform wasa treat. First linen rng about six feet the carpet nice, and my linen peignoir and sat at her ease warmer at her slippers if the day was at all chilly, That foot-warmer was part of Anas- tasia’s system to keep a good circulation, ‘t mistress every hour or two delicate E she fed he cups of bouillon or chocolate or a fresh egc beaten up with wine jelly to i flesh on those ladylike bones. IMPROVING THE SKIN. “In the morning the face was sponged off aud, while wet, dusted with fine borax powder and left to dry. This refined the skin and stimn-| Stratum lated fresh growth, besides bleaching it. The powder wes not washed off.fbut brushed off, and answered for regular face powder, besides bleaching and erasing most of the wrinkles, A paste of borax aud glycerine was wonderful for softening the face, and after this was off the maid sponged the face with salt water and from drooping in the horrid middle-aged look. When your cheeks dip ever so little below the line of the chin good-bye beauty and bewitch- ment. After the salt bath, for ten minutes, all the deep lines of the face hada little thick cream and rosewater rubbed softly into them, with eare not to touch any other part of the face. Anas- tasia said fussing over the face too much brought down oa the cheeks, of which she had a great dread. You know Mrs. H——, the rich Colorado woman, who had such a fearful downy face and tufts of hair on her chin? All that was taken off by a preparation which left the | skin Like an infant's the growth never ap- peared again, It took three months’ time, but itwas worth the trouble. It has to be used very carefully, so as not to skin the face en- tirely, but it ry different from the arsenic depiiatories in common use, POWDEBING BY Dar, “Did she powder by day? Yes, spraying the face first with rose water five minutes and touching when just moist enough with a piece f mole skin dipped in the velvety powder. No paint, but the amber fluid which turns pink on the cheeks delicately applied, not on the cheek bones and around the eyes, which makes one look hollow checked always, but lower and delicately shaded in the white and a touch put on the ears. Don't you know how people used to admire the pink tips of Miss Schaumberg’s pretty little ears whon she was the belle of Philadelphia? A French maid knows enough not to neglect these coquetries of nature, and reddens the curve of the ear and the tip of the lobes as artistically 28 she shapes the cleft or the dimple in the chia, EVENING RITES, “For evening the rites were still more gra- cious, The face and neck were covered with lint dipped in hot milk, left on ten minutes, to soften and fill the tissues, The marsh-mailow paste worn at night did away with wrinkles in a few weeks. and the vichy and the pepsin and the grape cure, with naps out of doors in sum- mer, had restored the woman to a second youth. The triumph of Anastasia was to send er mistress out radiant with as little torlet work as possible. A touch of ginger extract from the vaporizer will bring the color to the cheeks and lips, my dear, without paint, and the blood in the face briugs fire to the eye without bella- donna, THE EYEDROWS WERE COLORED with seal-brown dye once a fortnight and the lashes touched with lanoline and cajeput to favor their growth. The hands and arms were soaked in a basin of warm milk to whiten and nourish them after patient massage. The pistache cream heightened their fairness and made the flesh delightfully supple and fragrant. You will find the whole battery in the cabinet bottles, the almond paste and cream, the pis- tache and the mallow paste and powder, the borax and giycerine in that Greek jar of white pottery and the lily mucilage for the face in that lovely vase of Italian ware. Every paint and paste, powder and pastill worth naming is ou those shelves and my Murauo and Floren- tine pieces are put to good use in holding them. That is my fad, but I don’t pretend to use half of them. Sumter Dare. CRANKS AT THE WHITE HOUSE. Murderous and Otherwise—How .Their Visits are Guarded Against. HY should not any person who happened to be so disposed attempt to assassinate the President at one of his receptions?” queried a repre- sive of Tre Stan, ‘Simply for the reason that it would be very difficult for any individual so inclined to reach the presence of Mr. Harrison,” replied the White House usher addressed. “You don't see why, but that is because you never looked abont you when you have attended a reception at the executive mansion, How many officers do you suppose surveyed you criticaliy while you were passing into the cloak room? Six in all. Not ove of these men but has had years of ex- perience in the police service. They are 80 trained—evory man of them—that they can tell ata glance just what sort of person each guest who enters is, Two classes of people are chiefly to be looked out for—cranks and crooks. The y discernible by the educated ey ir aspect always betrays them. As for the cranks they are distinguishable with equal readiness, The task of making them out is rendered easier, to begin with, by considera- tion of the fact that three-fourths of all mild lunatics are erazy on religious topics, Of course ouce ina while avisitor gets in here who is not entirely sane—that is unavoidable necessarily. But it is a very exceptionable case. As an almost invariable rule Ican teil a crank atthe first gins and if Ido not another of the guards will.” GUMPTION AND MUSCLE, “And can you tell a bad crank every time?” “The crank typical ig almost unmistakable. He, supposing him je—or female, for that matter—has little chance to pass the sentries at the door and beyond. Each of these sentries, apart from his acuteness of perception is a _— of great muscular strength, Come here, im?” The guard called up one of his follows and bade him double his arm, It was as hard as a rock and as big as an ordinary man’s thigh. “This is the sentry who stands at the begin- ning of the reception line in the doorway,” he continned. ‘Suppose that you are a crank, how far do you think you would get in an as- sault upon the President before you are grabbed and disarmed and thrown out into the street to be carried off to the nearest police station? Not very far, I guess. I tell you the President is as closely fortified in the White House as if it were the strongest castle thatever existed. Lincoln was not murdered in the executive mansion; it was at the theater h® was attacked. Garfield was assassinated at the railway station. Oh, no; believe me the President is safe enough in his own dwelling. Gn occasions other than receptions visitors ure SCANNED WITH EXCEPTIONAL CARE, The minute we see s person whose appear- ance does not satisfy us entirely we ask him what his business is. Unless his reply is satis- ts y we a the inquiry, A man called here the other day to see the President with a tin box under hisarm, I d him closely about his errand and he dually seid he hada new kind of religionin the box to show to President Harrison. That settled him. in a while, uuavoidably, a druuken man gets into the White House ata reception or some such entertainment, It would astonish you to see the way in whi person so affected by liquor is thrown out, passed along from one guard to another eutl he the driveway. It is done so quickly, practice making perfect, as to excite no attention. I had @ very funny experience once with a crook at a party, though it was not here.” “Pray tell me what it was?” “It was at one of rey egedwrncuctaghland ington. I noticed in ck prom ‘iy abe took her into the street, and laying ber shoulder said: md “] waNT you." “You wouldn't arrest 2 lady,” she said, “In this case I will venture,’ I replied, and led her off to the station house. When we got there I said: RAILROADS. OND AND DANVILL! Ro ‘Sevedule in eflect JAN S308 Stations Atlanta, 8 1 lottesville. Lynechbu: ‘tween Lynchiury ‘Chariot Route. 3:30 p. fanouca, Memphis, co Wille, bast Ten « bet woo ne, Rocky Mount, na man t Danvil Wan Sleepers Washington Ww « 4 intertnedtate m.— Daily vin ky’ Pu, "+s % RAILBOAD CO. GAELS, 1g, m.—Daily, except Sart Sta stibale tra “Fast “iatiy, tor + ‘ Stations Cheeajeai aml hte. Youte, Ule and Stations Pui Puil- imeinnati via and O . for Manasem, ansaa, tom, Lowis= n Washing ton to Cincinuad with » Pullman sleeper for Loutes Ville. 11°00 pm.—Southern Pxpross daily fi Davie. Mal rr ake a to te, brandy to tone the muscles and keep the cheeks | Atwasia, Atlan: and Calil New Urieans via Atlanta fF Washineton to and Geongia Paciie Washington to Ashe vill Monto iornia, Pullman " Pi Paci rai Ashevide a Salisbury. Also Washington to and Charlotte. Lynchburg, ie, Columbia, New Orkeans, Texas Washington to ners. Pullman ja, vie Atlant Hot news “pte, DC. Augusta vin Dai ville 1 rams on Washington and Ohio division leave Wake ington 9.00 a.m. daily ¢ Sunusy and daily -arcive Round Hal 1130s. aud returns leave Kouod Hill 6.00 em. daily ee daily exces t sunday, arriving Washiaeion 8.30 Lynehbene Peake and Ubio ponte and Cust sttev! and 7:20 piu, and + :03a.t0. Strasburg local am. icketa, al Wo pa ‘and B sts. Jas. L. TAYL 48 poy slat in car reservation and information: farnished, and baxeae checked at ofl railroad, Gtb °@, 1300 Penne wm, Pepuaylvan de OR, Gen, Pass Agent dn feet Jan TRAINS LEAVE WaSHI Se COBMEN OTH AND be Por Pitr daily Fast Express 8:10 a.m. week di YLVANT WEST, ua, Roob: si y or am daily, with Dining Car. except Sunday, abd A LOUTE. AND SULTHR SPLENDID SCLNERY MAuNiF yi, ICENT PQUIPMENTS + UNM HOM STATION, LS FOLLOWS? ol Eapres@ LROAs “tor Sud Magara Palle stor daily; for Bute dey U20U Patieg Waamiuggton to e Lock Haven aud kimureat 20:00 yt Sund: Pur FOR PHILADELPHIA ONLY, Accom. 00 p.m. daily. For Boston w:thou! For Brooklyn, -N.¥., ail Jersey Gty with "boata oh rvokiyn ‘bane, thro: direct trausfer ang double terriage across For Atlantic City, 11:40 excep aysaud 6:10 p.m dally, day. connect af /nuex, alfonie woud 20 pra. meh trains \Sand 4:20p. daily, except Sunuay, Sundass, 900 aim S18 . For Annapolis, 720, 9:00 aau., 1 bam. ALEMAND&IA AND WAY AND ALt: KAILWAY. IN EPFECT NOVEM % For Ale: ath s the station, where ord ben € Leave W i days. mwend and the South, pan, daily. Acopmmuodation 4:55 pan. weels ak CAS. EO PUGH, General Munake wanna, 4:50, 12204 2 74a. i atrect x to destination ashing tou avenue and ( FS Lots 00, 10:30 and 1 For W OF Quantico, 7:45 a1 £8 Cah be frou Loteis aud rosidences. _ Geu _ tals Bacrrore, Axo O: sebedule ayers DERICKSBUBG RAIL- INUA AND WASHINGTON BER 18, Stncay 5, 00, 10:57 Sand 5 7 Mi 300 oa Sil 16 pt. "oe 520, SG, Oly ry the checking, ‘ato Ranzoan. LU DOr Lh, LBB, Of New Jerey er street, Aortuwest, Vestibuled Limited 42k. express 9:50 pau, aud Inwiauspolis, expresg pan. ay Stations between Washington and Balthe MOTE, 500, G40, B20 wet VNU, U2, Ah OE i oe % D5GU aap, Lido, 3.25, aby ‘Trains ieave Baltimore for Washington, week 5:10, 0:20, O30, 120, 7-40, a i mu. 4 i ¥ 5: au tle Chui Pain, stopping at ali stations cu Meitop ur Frederick, 10 4:06 p.m. trom Ca a.m. aud 1.50 p.m. ; tow: Littebung PHILADELPHIA DIVISION, und bizabeth,"s a DEW For idences Otices, 619 aud 1551 Fe. ave. and at De; 1 ODE! CHAS. cae 430 few bork, v. XORK AND ‘Gen. Manaxer. oi mati and at, 1 “2:3, *4:zu 7 NORFOLK AND F( roous C01 and atlendve olticers, ‘1 From 71 BG. POTOMAC RIVER LANDIN SEW TOs BEAR oe terminus 7th ‘Thuredgy snd whart, Tor New York, Phi Whart or Telephone Pies IY and Sud ira 1351 Pa ts geyre (iin ces eas ASats om heturuing TU. ENDALS Ba my Wuchiti at af a Rost 3 Mauarer, a by steau, ‘porous dasciplipe. £DNI sre. und nies ave. wles'e AND ELABUALD UUASIING | me POTOMAC RIVER BOATS, oT MONROE, ESDAYa at Boston whart, Norfolig ‘Ouls. Late having exclusive connection with BUSLUN AND FKOVIDENCE STLAMEKS. end rooms st Givand 1451 Pennasyi ing freunt.