Evening Star Newspaper, May 11, 1889, Page 7

THE EVENING STAR: WASHINGTON, D SHOES AND THEIR WEARERS. MANY FANCIES IN FOOTGEAR. HOW SAVAGE PEOPLE ARE SHOD. Sandals, Slippers, Moccasins, and the Clang of the Wooden Shoe. 4¥ INTERESTING COLLECTION IN THE NATIONAL MUSEUM—THE CHINESE LADY'S SHOE—WOODEN SHOES AND sHoEs WiTH WOODEN sOLEs—HOW PERSIANS GET UP IN THE WORLD. iliac ARIOUS forms of foot- gear have been devised by different people under different conditions. All the shoes made have one thing in common, and that isasole. There are shoes consisting of a sole with- out an upper, but none that consists of an upper without a sole. Not to have a sole on one’s shoe has been taken figuratively to represent ex- treme destitution. So when one wants to speak of a person who is in impecunious circum- stances, one. if he uses slang, is likely to say, “he is walking on his uppers.” form of shoe or sandal seems to have been merely a flat sole secured to the foot by thongs. This form can be seen represented in Roman and Greek sculpture. The Egyptions had sim- ilar soles or sandals made ordinarily of leather, but sometimes of palm leaves or papyrus. In the ninth and tenth centuries the common form of shoe in Europe was the wooden shoe. Even the nobles and princes wore clumsy wooden shoes, such as now are found among the MowAco Peesants. The fourteenth century produced ihe grotesque long-po.uted shoe. The points had been extended by fashion so far that in the days of Richard I they were secured to the knee by little chains. The church thundered against this absurd and useless fashion but almost without avail, for it held sway for 200 Years or more. In 1463, however, so much eadway had been gained against the mode that a decree of the English parliament was | obtained to oppose the decree of fashion. An act was passed prohibiting shoemakers from making points more than two inches long for the unprivileged clasves, Hence- forth the long point became a badge of the criminal class. But a reaction came, the long point went out of fashion, and people went to the opposite extreme. The toes of shoes were made of grotesque width. This ab- surdity was carried so far that Queen Mary felt called upon to issue a proclamation restricting the width of toes to six inches. If there were any of her subjects who had a natural spread of the toes greater than six inches they had to go bare-footed. In the sixteenth century boots & were generally worn in England and France and the boots of the cavaliers were made with enormously Wide tops, that were rolled or folded over. After the restoration the tops of the boots were ornamented. at least by the fops of the day, with lace. The simple form of shoe, which has held its own among Europeans and Americans to the present day. made its ap- arance in the seventeenth century. his shoe bas undergone several mod- ifications. It was fastened with a buckle before shoe-laces and buttons came into vogue. The industry of buckle making attained large proportions in England in the last century. When the buckle fell into a de- cline, and there was a general tendency to dis- card, the buckle-makers were threatened with distress. In their behalf the Prince of Wales stuck to the buckle and continued to wear buckle shoes ip the hope of restoring them to favor. but he led a forlorn hope. The buckle was doomed and the buckle-makers had to close their shops. In the National museum in the department of ethnology, under the direction of Prof. Otis T. Mason as curator, are gathered together specimens of foot wear from all over the world. Shoes are studied not alone from the economic standpoint. Ethnologists see in the development of shoes, the growth of the heel, the sole and the upper, the process of revolu- tion. Just as the naturalist sees it in the me- chanical fitness of the prehensile tail, to the “Ss cau nia SINGAPORE conditions of life of the monkey that has it In Prof. Mason’s balcony are many drawers filled with shoes, and in one of the alcoves of the museum are stored away another collection of shoes. If there was a procession repre- senting all nations and even the subordinate divisions of all nations, the representatives of the different countries and localities could all find in this collection the proper boots or shoes to wear. ‘Then scattered through the museum are effi- gies—armies of very little ones in cases, repre- senting the dress and the implements and cere- monies of different people, and here and there large figures, startling in their life-like char- acter, aud on each of these the student of shoes can find an interesting study. Wooden shoes, or sabets. are worn now among the peasants in many countries in Europe. Their advantage is in their cheapness and durability. In France and Belgium are factories where they are made of maple and ash. There are some in the museum from Norway and Belgium and some used among the Scandinavian settlers in the northwestern states and territories that seem heavy and ch to one accustomed to fine leather. The is made all of one piece, hollowed out. They are fashioned in the form of the foot. and sometimes have a little carving out- side to represent buttons and the toe-caps on leather shoes. The uppers are about a quarter The oldest | of an inch thick and the soles twice as thick. On one pair of wooden shoes in the muse from Belgium, even @ representation of little knob supposed to be made by the wear- er’s corn appears An attempt was made to e= tablish the manufacture of wooden shoes in this country during the war, but the industry never reached large proportion. Some however, are made now and sold among the foreign-born people of the northwest or ex- ported to Europe. In the tin district of Corn- wall, Egypt-made wooden shoes or pattens are used. One of these in the museum is simply a flat piece of wood, with an iron ring fastened underneath. This ring ison the ground, and raises the flat shoe and its wearer above the ground. The shoe is fastened to the foot with straps, Shoes with wooden soles are very common. They are used in some countries for ordinary wear, and many are made for the special use emplored in bleacheries #or » places, The impervious wooden soles the feet dry. Some shoes with hand- adorned uppers are provided with wooden soles, A higii-hecled lady's slipper from Monaco, with an upper of richly embroid- ered velvet, has asole, shank and heel. carved out of solid wood. Then in oriental lands wood is largely employed. The museum col- lection includes many interesting specimens from Asiatic countries. The Persians have shoes made of wood and richly inlaid which are reaily little raised platforms with a strap across the front for the toes to pass through. One pair of these are elevated a foot from the ground are venta- 'P keep ble stilts. These high shoes are for indoor wear, and are made chiefly for ceremonial pur- poses. They add to the height of a person and enable them to wear long state robes with more convenience. In these finely-made wooden shoes and the ruder ones worn by the poorer classes one can trace out the beginnings of the lines followed by modern shoemakers. The heel isthere. A Japanese shoe for ordinary wear is a block of wood with a tlat top, an upward slant in tront, a hollowed out place in front of the heel, a covering of lightly-woven straw matting on the top on which the shoe rests, and a V-shaped cord or thong, with a point at the toe and the two ends at either side of the heel. The point of the V is fastened to the shoe by another cord orthong. The shoe is put on simply by ran- ning the foot into the V so that the big cord at | the point goes in between the big toe and its | neighbor. In this Japanese shoe the hollow in front of the heel is made for the sake of lightness, and suggests the origin of the heel made on most leather shoes. The Japanese in their houses | wear light shoes or slippers with woven soles without heels, or else go_ in their stocking feet. These stockings are made with thick soles, and are divided like mittens, there being a place for the big toe and another compartment for the four lesser toes. This bifurcation of the stock- ing enables the wearer to put on the shoe de- scribed above and get a good grip on it with his toe. Japanese peasants wear also a rude wooden shoe raised on stilts, like the Persian ceremonial shoe. One of the simplest forms of AAS! shoes is that worn in Singapore and India, It is merely a wooden sole, with raised heel and toe anda peg or post in front. The shoe is adjusted with this peg between the big toe and its neighbor, and the shoe is held on bya muscular effort of the toes. ‘There are a variety of bootsand shoes used in China. The common shoe is made of thick, heavy felt, with a still thicker sole made of | woven straw or layers of felt. This sole does | not come out to the end of the shoe, but rounds upward at the ball of the foot. This puts the Chinaman on pair of rockers, as it were, and gives him a rolling gait. Chinese persons of rank wear boots with thick soles and legs of fine cloth or silk that reach half way up to the knee. Among the peasantsrude shoes are woven of straw. A wonderful shoe is that worn by a Chi- nese women of rank. One of these shown at the National museum is of silk beautifully embroid- ered. The general shape of the shoe is more like that of a hoof than anything else. It is less than four inches long. The wearer of this shoe had her feet bandaged in infancy and the bandages were maintained and tightened while she was grown up in order to make her feet small. When she was grown she was a helpless creature hardly able to hobble across her room. If she wanted to go out shopping sKe had to carried ina chair. The shoes or moccassins worn by the North American Indians are nearly all alike in their general structure. The moccasin, a slipper made of soft deer | | | NAVAJO Hupa Moccasin AND LEGGING skin, without a heel, is common to nearly all of them. Many of them have leggings either detached or connected with the mocca- sin or shoe so as to form a boot. Some of the Indians ornament their moccasins with beads, juills, or embroidery. Among the southern ‘indians, where no protection is needed from the cold, a shoe is made consisting simply of a sole of thick hide bound on the feet by pects Among the Apaches an odd attachment is found on the ts or moccasins. This is a little projection of the sole in front of the toes, generally made in the shape of a little round pad. is is called a cactus crusher and has its purpose. When the Indian walks growths of prickly cactus the crusher beats down the prickers in front of his foot. Some shoes of odd form, with elongated _ heels and toes, are used among the javajos and other southern tribes in their nye ca beaded arrior, A re of a wi a of the Goper Niger, which stands in the bound with ne} ethno- HOUSE HUNTING TROUBLES. “the | Trials of House Renters and Those Be- ginning to Keep House. DIFFERENCE BETWEEN HOUSE RENTING IN THE SPRING AND IN THE AUTUMN—SOME OF THE OBSTACLES WASHINGTONIANS HAVE TO COMBAT —THE SERVANT QUESTION—THE FUNDS, In Washington there are two special seasons of the year when honse-hunting is the order of the day, and we may truthfully add dreams by night. None of those who have passed through the ordeal can ever know just the amount of worry, disgust, disappointments, trouble and vexation of soul, mind and body that congregate to harass a house-hunter. Thrice blessed are those who are be- yond the pale of that necessity, or such as are willing to ex- ist upon the mysteries of boarding house menifestations. More young married couples are on the lookout for houses and go to housekeeping in the spring time than at any other season. The reasons are obvious. In the first place, rents are lower through the summer, and thus something can be saved in the beginning. Then living is cheaper—no fires to eat up tons of coal, gas bilis are les- sened, fruit and vegetables plentifal, and by the time the frosty winds of November are trumpeting the approach of winter's chilling blasts the domestic machinery is, or at least ought to be, in good running order, and a snug little home, perchance, bids defiance to cold and snowy weather. in the fall, which is the other season, the in. coming participants of official life; the seekers of social gayetica at the national capital. and the hard-working. ever-in-trouble boarding- house matrons, or the merely room-renting ten- antry—with that usual encumbrance of a half- humiliated and semi-ferocious husband to | clothe and feed—altogether form an army of house-hunters, a prey upon which the wide- awake renting agents, tradesmen and auction- eers feast and get happy. HOUSE HUNTING IN THE SPRING. In each and every case house hunting is nominally the same, involves the same amount of annoyance, disgust and despair, but it is of those who seek homes at this season of the year this paper will speak, leaving the autumn contingent to fature consideration. young couple of moderate means who start out in life and house hunting simulta- ¥, generally begin with exalted antici- They have their ideal domicile upon their minds, balconies and y windows included, They start out re- solved to have only this or that, but gen- erally wind up by taking whatever. they can get. Both M». Husband and Mrs. Wite too often conclude that the architects and builders have conspired to plan and construct houses intended as models of the greatest convenience and compare their own capabili- ities for building with that of the owner of the property, greatly to the latter's disadvantage. THE GREAT STUMBLING BLOCK with the average Washingtonian in this regard is the choice between a good-looking house in an unfashionable quarter and one a long dis tance out. The preference, of course, is for the more fashionable section, where it is the rule to live well and show up finely. When a couple of limited means indiscreetly get themselves into and become entangled by the meshes of this fashionable net they sooner or later fall under the latter portion of that philosophical dictum of Mr. Micawber, “that if a man had twenty pounds a year for his income and spent Gee) rere nineteen shillings and sixpence he would be appr but if he spent twerty pounds one he would be ut- terly miserable.” THE LOCALITY AND THE HOUSE. Admitting the trouble as to locality is obvi- ated, there is a difficulty about houses which may besaid to be peculiar to Washington. Beautiful and attractive as trees make the grounds about a house, it is better to be ex- posed to the hottest rays of the summer's sun or the keenest blasts of winter’s winds than to run any risk from too thick shade and the dampness induced by it. Washington beyond any city in the world is noted for the beautiful pleasure-giving and health-preserv- ing shade trees which line its streets and ave- nues, often overlapping one another. In many of the yards the sun never shines, the grass never grows—cannot beneath the three or four lines of densely shading trees which darken the pretty fronts. Damp, soggy yards and moss- covered steps are certain harbingers of ill health, disease, and too often death. What ' is true of foliage applies also to the shadows po By brick and mortar, ‘ FURNISHING THE HOUSE. The house rented, the very serious question of furnishing and “fixing it up” arises. Some Young people are fortunate enough either to have on hand or to receive as a wedding present the means of plenishing of their homes. At best, however, there is much to buy, and the ae to purchase high-priced ‘small things, which are ornamental, in preference to cheaper large things which are useful, will crop out here and there and lengthen that deadly list of expenses which so often proves fatal. There are some, however, who secm to thrive and be happy on ver’ modest incomes. In fact, they appear to delight in planning how to make a little goa "ages way in the selection of furnishings. The acumen of success is in discriminating between the haves and may-haves, The often passes through the hands of several generations. The latter too frequengly, when secured at the sacrifice of the former, fall into the hands of the pawnbroker and finally the auctioneer, Truly the business of moving into a newly rented hoise, furnishing and getting it into Kabitabie order is a hat requires no little executive ability and positive ideas of economy when means are limited. ENGAGING THE HELP. Next to the selection of a house is the matter of help. The novice in housekeeping has little dread of the servant question, but to the vet- eran it is something appalling—no less so than gas bills. The warnings and lamentations of others the former receives with many grains of salt, and although she may restrain an audible expression of her — individual opinion she cherishes a firm impression that for all the domestic turmoils one hears of the employer is largely responsible, The wrong beginning is she thinks. Starting out with the roy that their intérests are purely mutual—that her connection and that of her help with household affairs are identically the same, it is not long before she is brought up suddenly toface the discovery that she is the only one of this new partnership who holds to that view of the situation. The expected reci- rocacy turns out to be all upon one side—in fact, neutrality is as much as may be hoped for from the party of the second part. THE HELP EXOAGED. Itis unfortunately a rooted opinion inthe minds of the majority of the so-called “work- ing classes” that those above them in wealth and social position are hostile to them and their interests, and that it is ever necessary to protect themselves or be imposed upon. There are exceptions, of course, and such are regarded as “jewels,” which announcement is suficent to awaken the deepest interest in them on the part of others ose supply of “jewels” are out. Then the “servant question is completely transformed from one of worry over worthless- ness to anxiety over the tenure of employment. Since the more generous methods of mutual benefit are unproductive, all that remains is to place relations upon strictly busi- ness principles. It is as much to the advantage of one as to the other that wages, duties and privileges should be distinctiy understood from the outset by both employer and employe, Nothing should be left to be taken for granted, to be decided upon when complications arise, This is especially the case where only one maid or man is employed. THE MAN AND THE MONEY. Putting aside such deep grievances as intem- perance and the ungovernable temper, finan- cial matters may be said to be provocative of more domestic or than any other cause, There is something, it may be ava- ricious tendency of the age, fun ntally in the training of men and women upon this point. Why shoul a wife feel like a beneficiary soliciting alms when she aske eveh @ generous husband for the money for every-day household a There my be a few who are fortunate in being less sensitive —— this feeling is unknown, at are rare. ‘There are not « few men b aedboeed the be- must- former Written for Tax EvENtne Stan, RICH CHILDREN’S ROOMS. Princely Apartments for Sons and Daughters of Millionaires. ‘HOW IT I8 IN ENGLAND—THE GOVERNESS—LIFE OF CHILDREN IN THE 8CHOOLROOM—THE NURSERY OF MRS.W. K.VANDEFBILT'S HOUSE—CHILDREN'S SCHOOLROOM—THE AMERICAN GOVERNESS. The number of young husbands and fathers in the possession of vast wealth is as mucha mark of the timesas the vast wealth. In the last generation men expected to work patiently for their fortunes in order to enjoy them in their old age. The present caprice of fortune, the lady on the wheel, is to catch up the youth behind her before they have struck a blow for themselves. It is for the most part the young men who have built the fine houses of to-day. In these fine houses provision is necessarily made for the young children of the family. This, in its approved form, is modeled after the children’s establishments in the great houses of England. Perhaps the most creditable influence of Anglo- mania is seen in the lodgment and training of children. The difficulty is, as with all other customs, that we cannot transport the atmos- phere in which these thrive. IN ENGLAND the children’s apartment is not only separate in location, but has its own staff of servants, i governed by its own laws, and in all things is independent of the routiae of the main estab- lishment in which move the father, mother and elders of the family. The wet nurse is, as elsewhere, a law unto herself, Except the czar of Russia. or some easte: has no rival in her abso! is inevitably curtailed by infant teeth, But her reign ne sprouting of the When a child leaves the nurse's rms, it enters into a world of law and_disci- ne. ‘The social duties of a woman of posi- ion in England are obligatory and absorbing. Her maternal duties are necessarily transferred toanother. This is a part of the established constitution of things which finds no parallel with us. Accordingly a substitute is provided. It is the nursery governess, She is a woman of gentle manners, if with limited education. This is her profession, She has passed from family to family. All her antecedents are known, She has a professional pedigree which is open to inspection, so carefully is chosen the woman who is to be governess of this mimic realm. DUTIES OF THE NURSERY GOVERNESS, She has no menial offices to perform, the nursery maids do these under her supervision. She regulates the lives of her little charges, establishes her own tom of rewards and punishments, looks after the health, supervises the walks, hears the first lessons. and begins the cultivation of those manuers which social standards for centuries expect Iuglish children to possess. If a child needs the sea coast or delicate lungs demand the south of France, she assumes tho responsib’ In brief, she isa person competent to discharge the most deiicate duties of a mother, and such are in- trusted to her. This position she keeps until the education is sufticiently advanced to trans- fer them to the governess, IN THE sCHOOL-RooM, The life and education of the children in the school-room is as separate from the family life as that of the younger children, To the governess is entrusted their education, man- ners and morals. She regulates the studies and oversees the work of the masters, The school-room is attended by a school-room maid, and the governess presides at the daily meals. Tho appointments are simple but requisite, and under the care of special serv- ants, For the governess there is no humilia- tion in the position. Her duties have been prescribed by unwritten laws, her position is one of authority, and within the lines she is supreme. Education is a much more serious thing in an English family than it is here even in the best of schools, for nothing is per- mitted to interfere with it. Theaters and chil- dren's parties are interdicted. The gayety of the house does not penetrate the school room, Children live more simply, dress more simply, eat plainer food, and spend less money, It is doubtful whether an American child put up with the restrictions that an English child accepts without comment—so influential is the American child in the household. I five times because another girl went to another school, because she didn’t like a teacher, be- cause the lessons were easier, one caprice be- ing as good as another, and only at the fifth change did her masculine parent discover that she might not be the best judge of schools. ‘This same girl had a erate allowance than I am eure the daugiters of the Duke of West- minster did at her age, THE AMERICAN SYSTEM, A-separate establishment for children in the English sense is impossible here, for children in this country live with their parente—not only share their roof and meals, but their di- versions, and are ina way their companions, There may be many arguments oubtlbes +9 show that the American system of early edu- cation is by far the best. Nevertheless, English ideas have been followed, at least, in form, if the education is wanting. In the new houses a certain portion is madé over to the children. The apartments consist of nursery, bedrooms for the older children, sitting-room and schoul- room. These are fitted up with a degree of luxury that finds no parallel in English homes. IN MRS. W. K. VANDERBILT'S house the nursery is separated from her own apartments by her bath-room. The nursery is in the first empire styles. The wood is ma- hogany, and, with the exception of a few classic lines, is without ornament. The walls are in pink and tinted into harmony with the wood. Thé furniture is mahogany mounted in brass, and was made abroad in keeping with the style of the room. Connecting with the nursery is the children’s morning and break- fast toom. is is in pine, painted gray-green, and reflects old English styles, with lockers in the window seats. A dumb-waiter connects with the butler’s pantry and kitchen. Here the children are supreme. They may set their own table, wash their own dishes, and play at’ housckoeping in a truly viceable way. A window in this room overlooks the Francis I room below which the scene of the fess ball a few years ago. This room is intended for gala purposes, and, from their perch above, the small people can look down on the gay doings below. The school-room contains all the most approved appliances for making the roy: road smooth. Of-these the ceiling is most original. Here, in fresco, is painted the heavens and the planetary system, and a lesson in astronomy is always in order, as it continually stimulates and prompts inquiry from the growing young min A FINE PRIVATE SCHOOL-ROOM, One of the best equipped of these private school-rooms was that in Mrs. William E. Hoyt’s house on Twin Island in the Sound. Mrs. Hoyt will be better remembered as Janet Chase, the ong daughter of the Chief Justice. whose ife is now largely spent devoted to her chil- dren’s education. irs. Hoyt’s artistic tastes have carried her into the industrial arts; a skillful worker herself, she has been the means of enlisting a number of other people, and par- ticularly in the training of young boys whom the laws of apprenticeship have excluded from tra Her children are taught to share in these tastes. The school-room was not only fitted up with the necessities for mental train- ing, but was also a workshop. Here the boys worked in iron, and the girls had their wood- carving tables, served their, hours, and fash- ioned many cunning things, PRIVATE TEACHERS. Children who are educated in this way are placed under charge of a Swiss or German maid who has been brought over for the purpose. She has received them from the arms of the nurse, and when their education has got be- yond the nursery governess, or the kinder- garten, she still” bee charge of them, but mental training. The resident governess and tutor are not preferred in private houses. Social matters are too chaotic here to render the position comfortable for either the ployer or employed. Pan governess as a upi called on for thimble and needle The native F know of a young girl who changed her school | fr C., SATURDAY, MAY 11, 1889-TWELVE PAGES. sire to be amiable, cannot vouch for her friends. A lady of prominent here who has an educated German in her household, and who dines with her in the family, never enter- tains her when she has lest, as she says, they might be rude toher. In this sort of at- mosphere it may be imagined in the children’s eyes the dignity of education is not strength- e THE ENGLISH NURSERY GOVERNESS. The fashion of the moment is the English nursery governess, the great consideration be- ing her “English accent,” which has far out- stripped the language of France. The English nursery governess is the most sensible fashion that has yet prevailed in education, for she brings with her her English ideas on the sub- ject of lessons, sweeties, diversions, scrubbings, clothes, spankings, and waiting on one’s self. I have seen one of these gaunt English women, who looked as if she h: just stepped out of a caricature of an “English ees,” hav- ing charge at a watering place of three Boston cubs who the year before had been the terror of the house.” The lessons went on with the regularity of the school room, the exercises and the walks were as punctual as the clocks. She brought her charges to: the table and they aie what she prescribed. If they revolted they were carried forth and duly spanked, while their beautifal and fashionable mother composediy ate her dinner. But the most pleasing thing was to see them carrying itchers of water for their own scrubbing ‘and being taught to wait on themselves. Before the season was over the gratitude of the house almost resulted in a public testimonial. IN QUARTERS. The English governess brings with her her English ideas of health, Here she is vastly su- the French and German governess, s that have never realized the sav- ing grace of water and exercise. Thesb the American people realize and abet the English- womer, American children of leisure class are splendidly groomed ‘This is, of y Tux- T f grooms of some children equ lady ef Iux- urious tastes, Here is a description of the suite of rooms occupied by a girl of aine. Her name I will not give, for it would be unkind to pillory a child for the sins of her foolish par- N ury. white and gold. The wallsare hung in rose- tinted silks, and special pieces of furniture, diminutive in size, aud including a small secre- tary in ormoln with Sevres plaque that she may carry on her little correspondence. Here are her toys, the clegant gifts she receives, and here she entertains her friends. Adjoining this room is her bed-room in_ satin wood, her brass bed hung with blue silk curtains, A dressing-room attaches, and in this is the cul- mination of luxury. ‘The dressing-room is quite large. The marble bath is set against the wall. perfumed soaps. Sponges of all sorts and sizes hang in racks. Perfumed waters in cut glass bottles, cold creams, delicate iotions all find a place. On her bureau are laid out expensive rushes and combs in repousse silver and e quisite toilet bottles and manicure cases in | pearl. In one corner is placed a long cheval | glass that she may contemplate her skirts and dainty footgear. this child’s attention as specifically to the care of her body is already manifest, and one can only wonder what there can be in reserve for her when she is grown. CHILDREN OF PROMINENT AMERICANS. But children in the most prominent families are not quite so lavishly pampered. The Vice- President’s young daughters are sensibly dressed and most carefully educated. On fine afternoons they might have been seen speed- ing down 5th avenue on their roller-skates to | Washington square, before the Washington re ete set in. In Mr, Whitelaw Reid’s house the upper part is given to the children, where they are sensibly and carefully trained. The hall here, which is as spacious as the grand hall below, is paneled in red wood and has a |capacious ‘fireplace. is a noble play-room for inclement days. The Villard children, who | formerly occupied it, have been most carefully trained. The language of the family is Ger- man, and a German governess their constant companion. Their studies were overseen by their mother, and one of the pretty sights in’ the music room below was Mrs. Villard playing accom- paniments to her daughters violin in the daily practice. A form of private education much more in vogue is in classes of three and four, from an intimate circle. This it is claimed gives companionships, yet prevents the unde- sirable intimacies formed at schools. In this case at one house the schoolroom is fitted up and thither are brought each day by maids the outside scholars. The children are taught by special visiting teachers. These are always ex- pensive. In addition in New York there a many educational fashions, At one time it is solfege, another time elocution. Neither and none of these are of essential importance, but for their brief hour they are imperative, absorb- ing and expensive. Many Gay Humpuneys. ~ see. -—_ Saturday Smiles. Ten to one—12:50 o’clock.— Worcester Gazette, A woman cannot throw a stone as well as a man because she has teo long a collar bone. She can talk better than a man because. knows how.—Hartford Post, Solomon, in all his glory, ‘Throned and sceptered, proudly sat; But pe and sexe quickly vanished When shadowed by his wife’d spring hat, Y. Heraid. It is impossible to incorporate the soundest business principles into love. Affection always hasto be taken on trust.—Burlington Free Press, General Greely has a bad case of rheuma- tism. Now this country may expect some re- liable weather predictions. A man with the rheumatism is an excellent barometer.—Chi- cago News. Wichita claims that she will have two new railroads this year, one running in and one running out. This is like the auctioneer’s pen- cils—the lead runs all the way through from each end.—Emporia (Kan.) Republican. Walnut street is to be widened to sixty feet. Fashionable trousers may now be worn with comfort after church on Sunday.—Philadelphia Times, The sage people who sold the Oklahoma boom short are the winners. It is always a good idea to discount the beautiful plumage of a bird that is far away.—Oil City Derrick, “When the small boy goes in swimming in a Rostume of the mode That was worn by fair Godivia when through Coventry she rode;” When yachts are fitting out for going on their summer cruise, And there’s a big demand again for low-cut nis shoes, m1 ‘Tis — to sit beside the sea and listen to the yells That rise when crabs have fastened to the tootsies of the belles, —Boston Courier. “How did . like the Wagner operas, Clara?” “I enjoye back of you who alwa: them immensely, The person hums an opera = = when it comes to Wagner.”—Chicago The too early bud catches the frost.—Chicago Tribune, —N. “Let us not waste our time,” yelled the tem- perance lecturor. ‘Let us not waste our time in dealing with the small saloons and grog- shops. tus goto the fountain-head. Let us go to the brewery, my friends.” “All right,” chimed in an old soaker from s back seat. “T'm with you.”—America, ———_—_— e+ _____ The Origin of Visiting Cards. From the Toronto Times. As is the case in many other instances, we owe the invention of visiting cards to the Chinese. So long ago as the period of the Tong dynasty (618-907), visiting cards were known to be in common use in China, and that is also the date of the introduction of the “red silken cords” which figure so conspicuously on the en it cards of that country. m2 very ancient times to the present day the Seat ase ae ae wit cards which Us ii they use for this purpose are v and usually of a@ bright red color, When a Chiustaun” dostes that fact toa Chinaman to marry, his parents intimate professional “‘match-maker,” who thereu; runs through the list of her visiting acquaint ances, and selects one whom E 5 ents. She has a beautiful little sitting-room in | The low marble basin is supplied with | The impropriety of calling | Written for Tax Evrxrve Stan: HORTICULTURAL MATTERS. Some Valuable Advice About Propa- gating Grapes. HOW THE CUTTINGS SHOULD BE MADE AND WHEN WHAT IS USED TO PROTECT PLANTS AND TREES, no little experience on the part of the vine- yardist, and in my own experience I know that the experiments made are often costly and dis- couraging. The most common methods are by cuttings, layers and grafting. The former is probably the most difficult of the three, for it cuttings. In America we prefer short cuttings, and think that they do better than the very long ones; but in Europe the very reverse is the case. The cuttings are made very long, | often exceeding twelve or fourteen inches, In our own country it has been demonstrated again and again that those six or eight inches in length produce as good, if not better, plants than those much longer. yards are little behind us in another respect. |The modern scientific borticulturist of this country would not think of planting cuttings where the vines are to remain and bear fruit; but in Europe cuttings. instead of rooted plants, are put in the vineyards the same as two thou- sand years ago. The implements used for their { cultivation are also old fashioned and clumsy, | ard it seems a wonder that come change is no! | made in this respect, | improved methods and implements are con*id- ered. PROPAGATING BY CUTTINGS, Nearly all of our cultivated varieties can | Teadily be propagated in the open air by cut- | tings, although some of the more delicate ones require greater care. The cuttings that are | plented out in the spring should be made in autumn, On a cane of 6 or 8 inches several buds should be kept, and if the wood is short eage there will be not less than three to four i. Such a cutting is better than one with bud. The best place to keep the tender canes through winter is in sand or moss in some cel- lar, where frost cannot touch them. In the 1 | | cuttings. That is. the cane should be buried | inthe ground with the uppor bud just on a level, or below the surface. During the sum- mer months one or more sprouts will come up, | which it will be necessary to cut back in warm | climates when winter approaches agzin. In | our northern states the cuttings have to be taken up and heeled-in, and given protection | through the winter months. Vineyardists in some states mulch their cutting beds and bene- fit the plants by keeping them moist, but im | some localities this does more harm than good. THE SINGLE BUD CUTTINGS, as they are called, are the -best for rare and delicate varieties. The canes have only one bud, instead of three or four, as the long cut- tings, and the amount of wood attached to the bud is much less. Too much wood injures the growth of the buds as much as too little. It is the practice with some horticulturists to expose more of the inside of the wood by cutting off a slice of the bark opposite the bud. The one- bud cuttings are usually put under glass in the winter, and stuck ingshallow boxes or frames filled with sand. TM cuttings can be placed in a perpendicular position. or laid flat, and not thrust too deep in the soil. is to cover them up in an upright position, with the bud about half an inch from the sur- face. The heat should be supplied from be- low, if possible, as in all propagating houses, and a liberal supply of water constantly ap- lied. When the new growth is two or three inches in ae the cuttings should be taken up and potted singly. The first two or three days after transplanting, care should be taken \ to keep the pots in a warm, moist place. SINGLE-EYE CUTTINGS should not be placed out of doors until early summer, when all danger from cold waves is house early in winter, but February is the fa- ; to be used for such propagation should be taken in and stored in the cellar early in winter. Sometimes such wood will get very dry before February. In such cases the cuttings can be ‘own in warm water and allowed to souk a few hours, when their dry and shriveled ap- pearance will disappear. FROM UNRIPE Woop, The work of taking cuttings from green or unripe wood is sometimes attended with con- siderable success, but greater care must be ex- ercised than if the wood was mature. To do this successfully the young vines should be sere in the autumn, and the soil made so rich at the wood will grow rapidly. The young shoots will soon attain a growth of a foot or more, when some of them can be removed for cuttings, All of them should not be removed. however, for this would check the growth of the young vine and probably kill it. The bet- ter plan is to take a few cuttings at a time, and the main plant will not then feel the injuries so much. A bud and leaf should be left on each cutting thus made. The lower end should be cut square off near the bud, and the cutting buried two-thirds of its length in sand. This will leave the leaf above ground, from the stem of which a new growth will soon spring into ex- istence. The cuttings should be kept in close frames, C. 8. Warrens. Insect Destruction. To understand the relation insects bear to each other, and to the trees and plants upon which they prey, has been a constant stady for many years by the most eminent and learned men of this country and Europe. The disas- trous results of their workings make it neces- sary that those who own valuable orchards and shade trees should know how to contend with these pests that annually destroy their crops and every vear lessen the utility of trees, though individual insects are small, and there- fore seem of little moment. yet a great num- ber of them combined requires serious consid- eration, The number of species is so large, and their fecundity so great, that often in a few days they will so increase as to be able to destroy whole sections of country and despoil the fruit-growers and farmers of their crops. Every owner of trees should see to it that no insects infest his trees or plants, and a little care’ and knowledge in this respect will largely prevent serious losses. There seems be scarcely anything free from insect ravages. The air and water teem with countless myriads, and in the vegetable rowth every part of the tree and plaut is in- ested with them. Hundreds of species are enumerated as infesting a ry species of tree, and when we understand bow they work we wonder that so few trees and plants escape being destroyed. Our insect enemies are not all natives of our soil, but are brought to us from foreign countries in almost every imported article. New York, asa great im) cen- ter, is, therefore, conti a lucing some- ing new in insect pests. Central park we e an alarming array of itic insects that prey upon the great variety of tree and shrub life, and severe measures have to be used in order to keep them in subjection. KILLING THE INSECT WITHOUT INJURING THE TREE. Many experiments have been tried at differ- ent times in the New York parks to extermi- nate the insect pests, and the fight to keep them down has been a long and hard one. Many substances, which are powerful agents on organic matter, have been known for but they could not be introduced for Fe cially in culture and horticulture chemicals have been known to have rties destructive to insects, but their use been hindered for the lack of bring been something that would insects, and not fn mov the _ On all trees ted by Central park, a preparation re, bisulphuret of when a) scales we use, il : FE. i i : Rieti i 5 F & | is still a mooted point as to the best length for +you not to take The European vine- | hea the good results of | buds on it, for roots usually start from each | spring then they can be taken out and planted | in the ground the same as any other ripe wood | The best plan | past. They may be forced in the propagating | vorite month for such work. The wood that is | A Card to the Public from The Re- camier Manufacturing Company. The Recamier M'f'¢ company cheerfully admits for the benefit of its patrons that the euperior quality and cousequently high cost of 1ts Recamier Sarsaparilla aa compared with other sarsayariilas render it impossible for us to advertise it as widely or extravagantly as Our patrons who nerd s blood purifier and Propagating the grape successfully requires | Propet quantity of phosphorous and iron, which latter jents are so universally needed. While we will have to deprive you of gazing at beautiful advertise. ‘ments inthe shape of pictures, &e.. we call your attention to the following testimonials as to the merits of the Recamier Sarsaperilla as proved by its use by people you all know either personally of by Teputation. The following are selected from a huge ‘mass of such letters, all entirely unsolicited We urge other «arsaparilia if you have made ‘UP your mind to try the Recamier Sersapsrilia If your druggist does not have it in store be cau eend apd getitfor you. It is the cheapest medicine in the world, and notwithstanding ite superior quality and | Bich cost to manufacture, we have placed the retail price at the same as other sarsaparillaa, Very respectiuliy, THE RECAMIER IPG CO. JUDGE GUNNING 8. BEDFORD WRITES: New Yorx, April 11, 1889, Mrs. Harriet Hubbard ayer: | | Dean Mapawe: Through the solicitation of «friend | I was induced to try a bottle of your “Recamier Sarsa- | parila.” Itisa great remedy, giving, as it does, tome and vigor to the system, Ican cheerfully recommend tt, and especially to all professional and bysiness men who become worn out | from time to time by overwork, and suffer great phywi+ | cal fatigue and nervous anxiety ou account of their arduous duties, Gratefuily yours, GUNNING 8. BEDFORD. The lovely and accomplished daughter of the reat Chief-Jusiice and Finance Minister of Abraham Line co'n writes to Mra, Ayer about her Recamier Sareape- rilla: Wasursoron, April 4, 1889, Mrs. Harriet Hubbard Ayer | My Dean Mapaxe: I find the Recamier Sarsaparilla | Superior to all others I have tried, and cordially recom- mend itasau exceilent family medicine. Yours «in- cerely, KATHURINE CHASE. The Hon. Daniel E. Dowling, President of the Board of Aldermen, New York, gives his opinion in the fol- j lowing letter: New Yor, Jan. 7, 1889, Mrs. Harriet Hubbard Ayer: Dear Mapame: Having tried your Recamier Saree- Parilla asa remedy for an annoying disorder of the iver with eminently satisfactory and immediate re- wults, I take great pleasure in recommending it as Perfect family medicine. I also found it to bea won- derful tonic and appetizer. Every household should keep a bottle of iton hand. I have not felt so well in years ss I do now, after taking only one bottle of it, Yours, very respectfully, DANIEL E. DOWLING, President Bosrd of Aldermen, 1888. Billy O'Brien, General Manager of International Athletic Events, the Manager of the present Six-day | Walking Match, Madisou Square Garden, which opens | to-night, also Manager of thecoming Female Bicycle Race, writes: Mrs, Harriet Hubbard Ayer: DEAK MADAME: Athletes, as a rule.find it asnecessary asother people to use a blood purifier from time to time. Iwas struck by your statement in your adver- tisement of your Recamier Sarsaparilla that it con- tained no Todide of Potash, Nitric Acid, or Mercury, but that it would enrich at the aame time that it puri fied the blood, and upon the strength of this I have taken two bottles, and take pleasure in reporting to you that I find it superior to any other Sarsaparilia, It does all you claim for it and Iam delighted with its goodeffects. One thing about it which you do not men- tion strikes me as of considerable inaportauce—it is de- lightful to the taste. Others I have taken are really | Yery unpleasant. I predict fer your Recaniter Saras- Parillaa very great sale and that it will become the most popular of all, as it certainly deserves to be. You may use this letteras you see fit. Yours, very truly, BILLY O'BRIEN. ‘The formula for Recamier Cream and Balm are the identical ones used by Mine. Recamier for over forty years, and all the world knows that Julie Recamier when she died had a skin as fair as when at «ixteen the great Napoleon ac- knowledged her wondrous MME. RECAMTER. gave the preparse tions made from it to her friends, and only put it upon the market when circumstances drove her to the ne- cessity of supporting herself and children. ‘The Recamier preparations, it is acknowledged, stand alone as cures for diseased skins or preservatives for, good ones. With their phenomenal success a of interest in the beautiful creature for whom they were first made, and for whom they are justly named bas naturally arisen. The Recamier preparations are praised and used in Paris and in London. The great Worth knows of their marvellous good work, as one of his most beloved clients, Mrs. James Brown Potter, wrote while yet @ queen in society and before she had thought of going upon the stage, personal letter to Mrs. Ayer, in which she said she would never be again without the Re- camier Preparations, which she considered a luxury as well as a necessity to every woman, young or old. The Recamier Preparations have come through the crucial tests of scientific analysis with flying colors, “They are,” said # celebrated English physician who had analyzed them before s young member of the royal family was permitted to use them, “the very finest mixture of healing aud invigorating ingredients ever compounded for the skin to my knowledge, and should be used by men and women and in the bursery in place of any other emollient, salves, &c.” But perhaps the greatest triumph achieved by the Recamier Preparations was the recent First Prize awanied them at the grest American Exhibition in London. No cosmetics were permitted to compete for the award, and efter an exhaustive analysis the Recs- mier Preparations were declared Restoratives, Cura- tives, and beueficial tosuch « degree that they were ‘awarded the highest honor in the gift of the Commit- tee. The ladies of America have written Mre. Ayer by the thousands their expressions of delight and happi- ness in the restoration and preservation of oue of their sreatest charms, and to them she offers her grateful thanks for the charming courtesy which has been con- stautly afforded her on every side, and with it a re- newal of her promise that the Recamier Preparations shall be maintained always up to the Ligh standard which has made them the characteristic Toilet Prepa- Tatious of this century. Every Druggist in the United States who has not these preparations (there are very few who do not keep them) will be pleased to order them for any lady wishing them. A Few Words About Soap. ‘Mme. Patti gives her opinion of Harriet Ayer's Recamiet Soap in the following words: Cnare ¥ Nos Castix, Oct. 13, 1887. Recamier Soap is perfect. I thought other soaps good, but I had never tried the Recamier. I shall never useany other, It far surpasses all toilet soaps. ADELINA PATTI NICOLINI. PRACTICAL CHARITY. The Work of Some of New York’s Charitable Institutions. St. Gronar’s Mrs. Harriet H. Ayer: Dear Mapam: For some months I have been ‘Minister in Charge. Dec. 14, 1888. a Dear Mra. Ayer: ae es ‘Having tried your Vita Nuova with natis- jou, We cheerful recommend its use fall lis mentioned tn your Danwer Siguals Winking you God’ Bi Little sarot the Boor Sr. Gronor’s Memoniat House. 206 East 16% st, New York, Dec. 21, Mrs. Harriet Hubbard Ayer: soak me to write and ask of you s favor. Last yar you most donated a quantity of ouve {fie Parish poor. It has carefully dispensed “aed has proved most beneficial to many. The last bottle, was given a few. days favor I am desired to ask is: Would you Temember the poor sick by contributing ‘some more of your excellent tonic? With sincere thanks ior the benefit you have ferred by your gift, 1 remain, dear madam. I. Vita for overwork.