Bemidji Daily Pioneer Newspaper, December 20, 1918, Page 7

STYLES GO0 BACK <~ TOEARLY DATES i France Takes Over a Fashion In- i 1 spiration From English History. SUIT FROM CROMWELL’S RULE Coat and Stuart Collars Returned to Favor and Henry |i Straight Loose Gown With Loose Cord Gir- dle Is Worn. New York.—It is a long cry from Henry II to Cronfive]l, but fashion jumps that léngth in seven-leagued boots and regards it as a trifle. Fash- fon, indeed, asserts a fashion critic, places the two periods of the world’s history together without apology. She takes a bit from one and a slice from the other, and calls it a frock. History has been ransacked for three years for inspiration, strange to re- cord, when one realizes that a few /decndes from now-fashion will proba- bly start in to register the impres- slons of these days, and throughout all the ages to come, if there are such things as fashions for women, those who build them will go to this era of world-war as an aid to jaded brains. Possibly Napoleon was sufficiently an egotist to foresee that the period he created in the world’s progress would last the fashion designers at least an hundred years, as it has done, but he might have been startled at the fact , Btreet suit taken from Cromwell’s rule in Britain. It is of dark-blue cioth with two rows of tiny silver buttons down the front, a battlemented hem, and wide linen collars and cuffs. that, in a tremendous time like this, which makes his mighty battles puny events, we should go on playing varia- tions on the theme of clothes which he i brought about through his Martian ad- ventures in other lands than his own. None of the designers have gotten § very far away from the Napoleonic era, and their apology is that inspira- ¢ tion was drawn from every source dur- ¢ Ing the reign of this one man, and that It would be difficult to find something which had been omitted. Very true. We Turn to England. There was once a time, in the be- ginning of the Consulate, when fash- fon in Parls was turned toward the ancient enemy across the channel and " porrowed ideas for dress. This was done in a spirit of perversity by cer- ( tain sections of soclety; but the Paris designers now turn there in a differ- ent spirit—one of intense -gratitude and friendliness, and instead of look- Ing among present fashions for inspira- tion, knowing full well by practical evidence that they are Parisian, she i has gone back to British history. Later she may remember Mesopotamia and Palestine, and linking them to | Allenby and Marshall, swirl back to Holy Land costumery. { At the moment she is interested in eras of which she has thought little and cared less. It seems a strange thing that the tempemmental design- ers of Paris, on whom the world de- pends for the movement of the season in clothes, shouid revive the fashions of Cromwell. Curious juxtaposition of ideas. None has ever arisen in French history who could be likened to this Puritan, and we may find the reason for this singular recrudescence in the pleasant fact that Cromwell was sand- wiched between two Charleses whose frivolity is historically foreign to Paris. The Cromwellian inspiration Is new; the revival of those fashions which were adopted before the word had any significance when Henry I. was king of Engiand. In looking over a book of old costumery the similarlty shown between the frocks of then and and is startling. And this is all the fur ther we have gone in dress, is the ex- clamation that comes first. Those were severe fashions when FRIDAY EVENING,. DECEMBER 20, 1918 Cromwell interrupted the pleasure-lov- ing Stuarts. Some one has said that when Charles II came to the throne England with a sigh of relief laid aside her hair shirt to show that she word a silk one beneath. Just recently there has appeared sev- eral sorts with battlemented hems, a strange sign of those times, and a double row of buttons on each side of a long straight front opening, The wide linen collar and cuffs are added, and one sees that it is a new fashion. Not so new, but equally Cromwell- ian, is the sléeveless blouse, or short tunic that our shops seH as casually as they once did the American shirt- waist. These, also, were battlemented at the hem, while ours are not, but they also showed the full sleeves of the shirt beneath. In those days the man chose the undershirt in broad yellow and red-barred stripes. As we wear this other coat, the bat- tlemented one with long sleeves, fas- tened at the neck, but not below, the effect is good. It provides a variant from the accepted styles of jackets. It is beltless, which is a fashion the French designers are striving hard to establish. The slim lines of this coat keep the widths from awkwardness and the small armholes aid the clean- cut look. Sinuous Hips of the Orient. -It may be a happy fact one that gives cause for rejoicing that design- ers have no objection to “bunching” the countries when it comes to fash- ions. To put the oriental hip drapery alongside - the coat of Cromwell and the chemise of Adele of Lauvain is legitimate business. All's well that once looked well, might be their motto and they go on making a sartorial Tower of Babel, for if a costume could speak, this is what would happen in any representative gathering. The Orient is always too seductive, too easy of imitation, to escape constant wusage; there may have been periods in social history when it would not have been possi- ble to persuade well-placed women to appear in the clothes of the Temple girls and those of the Bazaars, but we don’t happen to belong to one of them. ‘We have stopped at some things in the last six years, but we have gone far, very far, Sedateness has entered into costum- ery during the last two years, but now we may see a return to license in cos- tumery that may make pre-war fash- ions appear anemic. Let us hope that Joy won’t be too unconfined. If there is a pleasing sedateness with freedom from demureness and drabness, then we will see good cos- tumes. Already there is a gracious way of employing orientalism which cannot be objected to by conserva- tives, even in the hip drapery whose swathings are the sign and symbol of the Eastern dancers. There is a tendency to combine col- ored satin with black thread lace in the oriental frocks, which takes away the suggestion of the East except In the swirl of fabric that goes about the hips. The Square Figure. These .are minor changes, however important they may be to the mass of women who have no intentiopn of swinging their clothes into every pro- cession that passes, in comparison to the subtle transformation going on in Gown of sweet-gum colored velours showing the square contour for which fashion is headed. The back of the skirt is plaited, the front plain. Under the square bodice there Is a sash of indian-red crepe. the contour of the figure, It is get- ting square. If it Succeeds there is another blue ribbon of victory to the house of Caifot who moves along a mysterious way toward. changing the fashion of the civilized world. When Callot sent to this country those primitive garments without belt, or curve, cat straight from two pieces of cloth, or so it appeared, and sewed up at each stde, women simply uttered an emphatic negative and passed them by. Ever that little group of extrem- ists which can be depended on to try out everything once, at least, were too doubtful of the experiment to put money in it. And yet here it is creep- ing in among all the best gowns from important houses and promised as the ruling contour for spring. (Copyright, W18, by Mm lure Newspaner NOTHING HAPPENED. Bhe sat beneath the mistletoe ‘Without the slightest fear; Bhe felt no wild, glad tremor, though She knew he lingered near; She sat there calm and unafraigd, And sleepily he vawned, for they'd Bagn warrled for 2 Fasi- | DEFINING THE AGONY. “How does it feel to be gassed ?” “Why, haven’t you ever had to listen to a long-winded bore who wouldn’t let anybody else get in a word edgeways” THE BEMIDJI DAILY. PIONEER EASY TO DARKEN YOUR GRAY HAIR You Can Bring Back Color and Lustre With Sage Tea and Sulphur. _ When in Minneapolis stop at HOTEL LINCOLN NICOLLET AVENUE and NINTH STREET Bttt B L LI L Opened September 1st, 1918 In the center of the business and theatrical districts, adjoining the largest retail store. One square from street cars to and from all depots yet free from noise of that traffic. Entrance and lobby on Nicollet Ave., Minne- apolis’ leading thoroughfares. When you darken your hair with Sage. Tea and Sulphur, no one can tell, because it’s done so naturally, so evenly Preparmg this mixture, though, at home is mussy and trou- blesome. For 50 cents you can buy at any drug store the ready-to-use preparation, improved by the addition of other ingredients, called “Wyeth’s Sage and Sulphur Compound.” You just. dampen a sponge or soft brush with- it and draw this through your hair, taking one small strand at a time. By morning all gray hair dis- appears, and, after an other applica- tion or two, your hair becomes beau- tifully darkened, glossy and lux- uriant. Gray, faded hair, though no dis- grace, is a sign of old age, and as we all desire a youthful and attrac- tive appearance, get busy at once with Wyeth’s Sage and Sulphur Com- pound and look years younger. This ready-to-use preparation is a delight- ful toilet requisite and not a medi- cine. It is not intended for the cure, mitigation or preventxon of disease. 125 Rooms—100 with bath and toilet. $1.00 to $2.00 per day. Furniture and equipment entirely new. All rooms have outside exposure, electric elevator and local and long distance phones. Guests will receive the personal attention of the owners who will be there to wait on them. WM. B. CAMFIELD F. S. GREGORY Subscribe for The Pioneer 3 Power Attachments for Ford cars 2 Washing Machines 100 pounds Transmission Grease 7 Cans Separator Oil 6 cans Thermite, Auto Freeze for auto radiatars 50 pairs Ladies 300 yards Lace 1 dozen Buggy Anyone having anything to sell, bring it to our store and we will sell it at this Sale. Remember the date:- SATURDAY, DECEMBER 21 E. W. HANNAH, Auctioncer UCTION ] P ———————————————— N ———————— SATURDAY. DEC. 21, 918 - Sale begins at 1:30 and 7 P. M. af Bemidji Second Hand Store, 206 Minnesofa Avenug ’ Shoes and Oxfords 1 Sanitary Indoor Toilet, new . 3 New Gas Irons 5 3 Sewing Machines 100 packages Assorted Drugs 200 yards Ribbon 1 set new Harness 6 small Grass Rugs 1 large Wool Velvet Rug, new 1 dozen good Dining Chairs 100 packages International Stock and Poultry Food 12 cans Disinfectant and hundreds of other articles that must go, so come, as this is an opportunity that you cannot afford to miss SALL 12 good new Ladies’ and Children’s coats 8 Men’s Good Overcoats: _ 12 new Cotion Top Cot Mattresses 100 yards of Calico and Gingham 12 new Corsets 50 Curry Combs 50 Brushes Boys' and Young Men’s Suits, good, new Rayo Lamp i Alladin Lamps Gasoline Lamp Fumed Oak Buffet Wardrobe Cabinet Davenport New Home-Made Comforts and Quilts Bath Tubs Skiis Sleds . 1 2 1 Whips 1 1 1 1 - HANNAH & ROBERTSON