The evening world. Newspaper, September 16, 1922, Page 16

edward, A TIGHT, BOWS OF RIBBON ARE $0 NUMEROUS THAT THEY ALMOST COVER HIGH HAT. “The Ne A. LITTLE PLUSH HAT OF BLACK WITH A DROOPING PLUME GRAY. IN LEFT—PUFF OF SILKY BLACK FOX FUR BENDS OVER THE BRIM OF A BLACK VELVET TOQUE. . RIGHT—AN AIGRETTE WITH FRINGED ENDS BROADEN THE LINES OF A TRICORNE, IN A THE TAM-O'SHANTER GUISE. oer: wr rit et ek 1922, BRAND NEW THE JACQUETTE BLOUSE !8 ELA BORATED INTO COAT OF WOOL BROCADE WITH MONKEY FUR TRIMMING. “i Faas SIO: —— es Shapes and Trimmings Are New Enough and Pretty Enough to Inspire the Wish for a New Chapeau. ATS are flooding the market— H the feminige market—the mar- ket that tures all girls at just this season of the yegr. Don't you know how awful it is to go outffeeling perfectly happy in your straw hat, and suddenly to look about you to discover every other woman in the world wearing a wihter one? Oh, the sinking of the heart after that apparition! And you hadn't even realized that your pocketbook would have to stand the strain of another hat account. ‘The weather 1s till warm and everything, but here are these new fallhats! At first it looks like a bore. You had besn so happy in your partly shabby summer headgear to which you had grown s6 accustomed. Then all in the twinkling ofan eye you see that what you want most on earth is a new fall hat—that the only thing which ts going to make you sit up and take a frgsh, peppy interest in life is the acqllring of something brand new with which to adorn your person. Well, then, for the fall hats! ‘What are they? They are pictured on this page— some of them—in all their new lines and phases. Now, you are going to say first thing: “But I don’t see much change You're right about that. ‘There isn’t a great deal of change and yet if you want to see just how much divergence there is, take a last win- ter’s hat and hold it up beside a new one, You had thought it was the same shape, had you? Well, see the subtle change. It is so small a thing and so artistically conceived that unless there is @ direct comparison you cannot pei cetve how really important the new hats are. You Can’t Go Wrong On Aigrettes. ‘There are“aigrettes and aigrettes, of course. There are the false ones for those’ who can’t stand the agony of having real ones and remembering that their acquisition burt the mother bird, But they are all over the place, either false or real, when it comes to the matter of the new fall hat: ‘There is one aigretted hat in this picture and it is typical of many others, The point is that the aigrettes must stretch out and away from the hat in eome way or other. They may burst straight up into the air, or they may spread out at the sides, or they may droop down from only one side. So long as they are there, so long as they leave the hat at some right angle, then they are au fait for this Beason, ‘Most of the aigrette hats are black —dlack as to hat and black as to trimming, And, after all, there ts nothing better than a black heat for carrying off the style of a/frock or @ coat or whatever your costume may be. Then when the fairy quality of the feathery aigrettes Is added to the black solid surface of @ hat you have something that can never be too cum~- bersome and that will always add its charm to whatever costume you hap- pen to be wearing. ‘This is an excellent sort of a mid- season hat. It sort of blends in with many sorts and conditions of clothes, and {s a good thing to carry over until the time when you will be buying @ hat to suit a certain coat and dress destined to last through a long win- ter season. In the set of illustrations you will see a little toque of hatter's plush with a drooping feather at the side. iit of the Fall Hat By Margery Wells There is one particular thing to no- tice about this feather. It does not droop like feathers have done in the past, but it takes a new and indepen- dent way all of its own. It is a tiny enough feather, but it 1s so poised that it holds the centre of the stage and becomes the point of Interest without which that little hat would amount to nothing. Hatter’'s plush, or a long napped panne velvet, is the material that, for the first hats this season is most liked. It has a shiny surface that is usually becoming and the softness of its texture makes it blend with the hair, makes it add lustre and color to the eyes, makes it surround the face with that flattering aura so vital to the good looks of a girl—ot any girl. Fur for Hat Trimmings. One of the hats on this page has its trimming made of a big pompom of fox fur. That is a new idea, in- deed. Of course, we have had hats be- fore this which were trimmed with fur but never any with so much snap and go and so little heaviness about them. This pompom looks just as though some thick feathery substance had been thrown over the high brim and The Short. Blouse Coat Comes Into Instant Favor By Janet Winslow. HE short bloused coat is good. So, if you want one, why go and invest in ‘it by all means. You will not be sorry. The idea started in Paris. Then it spread and spread, as these fashion ideas sometimes do until it finally was accepted by every one. We had been longing, at any rate, for the short coat. We had had too many long ones. Then with the ! ‘irts, this long, bloused cout its ending around the hips comes in very excel- lently as a supplement for the extra skirt. We can't wear long coats with long skirts unless they are really warm and wrappy affairs, and we certainly can't wear coats that end at the natural waistline, because that makes the line so bad, But when it comes to these hip length affairs without any peplums, why we have just the thing which is going to bring out ‘the best charm of the tenger lines. In the picture there is shown one of these coats carried out to the last possible degree of beauty., It has ‘trimmings of monkey fur, which add that. irregular and becoming touch which is so well adapted to the ma- Jority of girls. Now the material of this coat is one of its chief attributes. It is a woo] brocade, and that is something which, having only just arrived from the looms of Parts, is destined none the less to be popular through the whole of the approaching season. A wool brocade is more or less like a silk brocade. It is woven in the same way, with a raised surface and a depressed surface, and everything done in the same color, with the raised portion of the surface mak- ing the pattern. It is a handsome material and one that is sure to have a@ great vogue, because it is so de- eldedly new and so well adapted to the making of the new gowns and coats. Some of these new outer coats with the surprise comes when we discover that it {s nothing but a piece of the old fox's coat. A great many of the trimmings are high this season. They are set onto high brims to begin with and then they think nothing of mounting inches higher than those brime. And that {s a trick to which fur is splen-, didly adapted. It can be puffed out and above u surface with the most remarkable effect. G Ribbon Bows Cover Crowns Puffy bows of ribbon are just the things for early fall hats. They are always good at this season of tho year but this time they are better than ever. Of coyrse, having been accepted into popniar favor in the manner of hat trimmings, they then proceed to usurp the whole scene and when there are any bows of ribbon at all there are apt to be a great many of them. They are arranged in rosettes and the ribbons are wide so that there usually results a huge mass of ribbon ornamentation. But that ribbon) is more often than not the color of the hat itself, so that you have some- thing which is all black or all red or any color which you happen to choose. their bloused and hip-length lines are made of a material called matelasse. That has a silk surfate and woolen back and it has running all over its outer silken texture a pattern of em- broidery which, because it 18 never- ending, constitutes a part of the tex- ture of the material itself. Many of these are done in black and white with the white embroidered design on the black surface, or in red upon black, or in green upon gray, or in many other combinations of colors. Now these coats can be worn with almost any sort of skirts except that they should really be a pleated of a full, plain skirt to make them show off to their best advantage. They are good with some sorts of draped skirts, but one should be very care- ful about what sort of a draped skirt for you are very apt to gain the effect of having put on any old coat with a dress that was never designed to go with those Hnes. Some of the bloused coats have no trimmings of fur and with these the inevitable fox or mink or sable can be worn about the throat, but some- how they are better looking when they are provided with trimming which js parttcualrly suited to them and offen happens to be fur of some sort or other, especially for the ap- proaching winter season. Just at this time of the year it is a splendid idea to have a coat of this sort to tide over until very cold weather. It would not be warm enough, of course, for winter winds and sleet, but for several months now, in fact until after Christmas time, you will find that some outer wrap of this general character will be very, much the sort of thing that you will need forsthe street. And, if you have e of them, you will have that ex- treme satisfaction of being well dressed according to the opinion of the majority. You may not realize this just yet, but you will as soon as the newer winter things happen to be prevalent upon the streetey