The evening world. Newspaper, August 26, 1922, Page 16

veras FY 4 & Clothes for Rest Hours That Ex- press the Spirit of Leisure in Their Very Line -and Fabric Have Become Necessary. Printed Silks and Crepes Are Ma- terials That Are Easily Wrought Into Those Forms That Express Restfulness. By Marge HP art of negligee and night- gown making is becoming @ deautifully perfected thing and we are rising to heights of simplicity unknown to us in America, as We @reate more and more lovely garments @ be used in our hours of leisure. There are all sorts of ramifications fm the way of hotise paraphernalia, and all of them are worthy of men- tion if not of study, for we have been, ali along, behindhand in knowing the ‘Ways of leisure and the rments with which that delectable state should be surrounded. One cannot rest in one’s everyday clothes. The whole sur rounding is wrong when they are the accoutrements of one's on. But there should be, as the French insist, @ special regalia for hours of rest and Tepose. They have that art down to @ science, for they rest most of Khe time, and therefore their rest dresses are almost the most important part of their wardrobes. While we in this country have less ®ime for resting and devote less of our heavy thinking to the idea, it is nev- @theless a desirable attitude for us €0 assume upon occasion. If we sur- round ourselves with restful clothes, ‘We are more or less likely to become Festful in spirit, whereas if we try to rést with an outer semblance of ac- tivity we gain not nearly so good a It from the hours, or minutes be, of repose which we can afford @O Bllot to ourselves. ‘There is the slip made to wear un- @er one-piece and many other sorts f frocks. It is called “the French @ip,”’ and more often than not, made upof a series of fine pleats, extending from the shoulders to the end of the skirt, and with no visible waistline to break the continuity of the long, fine Pleats. Of course, there is a belt or gitdle of some sort that ties carelessly @found the waist when occasion de- ds, but this is more in the nature ® concession than a necessity. Tn the picture shown on this page there are two examples of this sort @f slip, It can be, as you see, an un- @erslip or a gown in itself. And it ean be worn around the house or one’s boudoir with nothing over it, or Mt can be worn on the street, even, as the foundation for, say, a printed silk or a printed chiffon or some other ma- Berta! resembling these two in effect. When thoy are used for boudoir robes they may either be worn alone @r with a lacy sort of cape which par- Malty, but not altogether, covers the softness ct the underlying fabric. And the lace very often is adorned with wibbons and bows and rosebuds galore, mo that it becomes the veritable ex- Pression of the prettiest side of the feminine nature. As for the slip itself, tt has that one attribute of simplicity which It to the girl who wears It, There fe nothing overdecorative about It. To be sure, one of the gowns shown on this page hus wide sleeves of ruffled lace, and then there are the rosebud girdles, but they are not external fix- imgs more or less necessary to hold the informal lines of the garment in lace. Tt is @ long time since we have had garment which filled so many niches fi the demands of our wardrobes, and Mf behooves us to study the possibill- ties of the French slip so that wo @ball be able to take advantage of all ftw possibilitis and profit by them to @ur own glorification. The Printed Silk Kimono. ‘There was a time when we thought fhat only the Japanese or Chinese Kimonos were profitable and beautiful for wear during the intimate hours in ‘our rooms and apartments. But with development of the printed silk in rica we have reached a whole new rm in the designing of the kimono. Now we have all sorts and condi- tions of printed silks that are lovely for wear and for gowns of this sort. ‘We absolutely glory in the making BOG designing of them, once the idea strikes us, and we are finding out hhew really lovely we can look when We are wrapped about with an in- Gorma! kishone of this sort looking for ry Wells. all the world like nothing in which an ffort was involved but displaying all the points of an artistic habiliment. A printed silk kimono made over the regulation lines of the Oriental costume and done in a printed silk embodying all the soft tones and shates of a Paisley shawl is shown in the illustration on this page. Of course the design is distinctly of a modern character but it takes @ll of its colors from the tone established by, the Paisley shawl Now the outside of the kimono is made of one lone, ample strip of the printed material which contains the colors of red and green and blue in all of their softest tones, Then for a lining there is used a very vivid shade of vermilion crepe which creeps out over the edges as a sort of padded facing. It takes this facing idea from the Chinese and the very brilliancy of the color adds a sort of form and tone to the garment which makes It one of the most beautiful of its sort to wear about the house, ¥ Another kimono of this sort ‘was made of a royal blue tone of heavy crepe and it was lined with a bril- Nant plece of cerise crepe. This Jin- ing crept out over the edges in that Chinese manner and the very contrast of the two colors served as the only decoration of the gowns House Robes of Calico Printed Crepes. The calico printed crepes which have been so popular for summer dresses are carrying over into fall for the house kimono of the brighter and more picturesque variety. They come in such really interesting colors and they are capable of so much devel- opment in the way of design that they are peculiarly adapted to tH making of the modern and Americanized idea of the ever necessary kimono. There is a green printed silk of this sort made with an interlining of soft cotton and with a lining of plain green silk that has that same tendency to puff out over the edges. Then there is another made of orange and black print and this is ned with a black silk which makes the whole garment 4 most effective thing to see. The Boudoir keobe Ur acelully “ae Lon mntine + THE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, AUGUST 26, 1922, pe ee Glimpses Into New York Shops. By Emilie Hoffman. OMEN like the separate skirt W for travelling and on cool days the sport skirt looks well with the loose suit coat, hence women demand them. This has necessitated the early display of fall models. Large over-plaids and fancy stripes are prominent in these. Grays with double crossbars in contrasting colors are well represented. A blue eponge with block stripes in tan and brown is decidedly modish, Smart- ness is the outstanding feature of these new skirt It is very doubtful that fashion creators will ever succeed in elimi- nating the blouse. While women fa- vor the one-piece dress and the new three-piece suit, which is really a one-piece dress and coat, the ward- robe of the average woman includes some smart separate skirts and these require several blouses. This de- mand is being largely catered to in all shops and in the blouse sections uew models are appearing daily. Among these the slip-on variety is still the preference and as the ad- vance models come in it {s apparent that the overblouse continues to be a strong note in modes, These are of two types. Hither they are finished just betow the waistline with a wide, fitted band of the' material or they are cut straight and cover the hips with the slight fullness held in with a tie bend or fancy girdle. Most of these blouses have either a deep V shaped or a square neckline and collars are rarely seen. Felt hats.are now the popular note in millinery. The combination dea % RIGHT—BROCADED SLIPPERS TO WEAR AS AN ACCENT FOR THE INTIMATE HOUSE GOWN. BELOW—A WHOLE COLLECTION OF “MULES,” THE ACCEPTED SORT OF BOUDOIR SHOE TO ACCOMPANY THE NEGLIGEE. is strong in the new models brims of felt are topped with cro of maline, velvet or the metal fabr Black and white effects are promi- nent. Crowns of black velvet the brims in white silk and vic Very smart s in black and two-tone effects such as bréwn combined with steel or silver, this and beige, black and white, &c. being applied in pipings or bandings and the trimming. Some of these As the new umbrellas appear in the dressy taffeta hats are entirely qisplays it 1s apparent that there is a shirred. strong tendency toward silver trim- SB mings. It is being gradually intro- Home dressmakers have been inter- duced, Thus far it is seen only in ested in the array of organdy and the rings or hoops on the colored gingham trimmings the shops were handles, in bandings and handle tops. displaying all summer. These trim- Some umbrellas have the tips and fer mings met with such approval that rule in silver. Those who know say it manufacturers are now producing in- will not be long before the silver novations on a larger scale, Novel handle will be quite as fashionable as edgings, insertions and trimmings‘in it was a quarter century ago. J wide have ns large varieties. Among the ribbon trimmings is an effective novelty con- sisting of Mttle puffs through the each side By Janet Winslow T 1s all very well to have a house | robe that suits your fancy, but the supplying of slippers to go with it 1s quite another matter. One can hunt about the city interminably if one does not know the particular places to go and find nothing at all that suits the purpose, I ask you tf anything can be more stupid looking than the average house shoe? Now mules are the things, that most women who wear boudoir clothes of any particular character are always king to Wear upon their feet. You seo, there 8 this one beautiful part about a pair of mules—they can be decorated and trimmed in harmony with the gown that you choose to wear, besides making your feet look about as picturesque as possible, In the picture you will see a collec- tion of mules that are all appropriate er ws PHOTOS TOW BRIDGE silk and cotton are being displayed 11 centre with the scalloped edge along It comes in plain colors for wear with the more picturesque sort of negligees. “They, of course, are not provided with any support for the heels, but they have fore- fronts made of satin or brocade, and then they are trimmed with edgings of marabou or feathers or ribbons or something of the sort that makes a fluffy edging and serves to give the slipper that informal effect which make {t becoming ta the foot This season the fad is to h buckles even on dress-up shoes, and, of course, that fad spreads more per tinently to slippers that are used for the house. You can add a rosette or a series of bows or even anything 80 fancy as @ pair of steel buckles to your patr of satin mules and you will have something that not only har monizes with the house gown that you are wearing but which also carry with them that element of style which makes you @ory in owning them, fe Slippers and Half Slippers Called “The Mule’’. Sometimes it is necessary to take the material of your house gown to the bootmaker and to have a pair of mules made especially for your use when you are wearing a certain gown. Brocaded slippers for evening gowns are all the rage and will continue to be so through the coming season. The idea is to have a piece of the material of your gown, whether it be a hous n or a more formal evening gown, do into a pair of slippers to match your frock Slippers are, more and more, @ part of the gown you wear. They are the appendages, without which your cos- tume as a whole sinks into nothing- néss. They are the things which serve to accentuate the gown you are wearing and to bring it into bold re- lief. Of course you can have a gown of plain color and then wear with it bro- caded slippers which leap into the limelight because of the very contrast LEFT—A BOUDOIR FROOK OF PLEATED PALE GREEN CREPE DE CHINE HA8 GRACEFUL BLEEVES OF LACE DYED TO MATCH, CENTRE—A FINELY PLEAT- ED UNDERDRES® OF SOFT RADIUM SILK MAY BE WORN EITHER ALONE OR WITH LACE OVER-JACKET. BELOW—A PRINTED SILK KIMONO COMES INTO ITS OWN WITH ALL THE NEW ‘ ARRAY OF PATTERNED SILK FABRICS, which they create. Then there ts another combination of the brocaded gown or the Batiked gown worn with plain satin slippers of some very bril- liant shade. It ts all in the art of the contrast which you are able to create, and often it is the pair of black satin slippers which afford the very greatest contrast and the best ap- pendage to a more brilliant gown. Gold and silver slippers will still be very popular during the coming sea- son, but most of them will be supplied with some sort of rosette or buckle instead of their being so very plain as they have been tn the past. There is a rosette of gauze ribbon applied to an evening slipper suitable to wear with a house gown, which has the very essence of the decorative in its nature. It 1s the sort of extraneous decoration which a woman loves to apply to her costume in order to bring out the fine points which are in her conception the only noticeable pointe of her costume, ®