The evening world. Newspaper, August 5, 1922, Page 16

— Just the Thing for the Girl With the Flapper Shape Who Looks for a Change in Lressing Habits. Contrast Between Coat and Skirt Is the Im- portant Feature of the Dictum That Comes From Paris. By Margery Wells. HERE are all sorts that say, “The little sien hort coat will again be popular and in con trasting colorings.’ The news comes from Paris where tne idea is already am assured fact. So if you take up the fashion you have this au thority b Many American Idea of these sepa cut want \o ind your choice girls will like the e and informally coats because they, # rule, have the height and slimness to carry off the You know, of course, that a style of this sort was never meant for a fat lady, but when you have that flapper shape that 1s looking about now for a change in its ing habits, why this extra coat as much to recommend it to your attention. short design. These new separate coats ure not « they were some ten yours ago—all tailored and trimmed and well rounded off. Not at all! They are loose and graceful. They are cut and shaped with every attention to line that ba been given to the loose coats, ani they have their portion of uti sloppiness which adds them to the present fashions as a distinct achieve ment. Now it is a new white cout—a short that—with a black dress. Yet that is the plan und principle upon which these newer coats are being designed Or, if the coats are dark, then follow- ing the exisfing plan, that are worn with light—quite light—skirts. A Short White Silk Coat. The silk coats and capes, long of Mne and sweeping in design, have made the greatest sort of a this gummer. Every one who owns one of them has only kind words to say for ft. They have been wraps ext ly useful in the living of a summer life and it looks as though it would bo many seasons and years before we are willing to discard them. Now the short coat has adopted the same general tendencies and it appears upon the fashion scene with all of the confidence given by the force of a previously accepted model. In the picture we have one of these worn with a softly draped black crepe de chine frock. There is no attempt at the waist and skirt fdea. But the is added that soft little crepe white coat which is just enough covering for a summer day, which adds that dressed-up effect so desirable when one must be the least bit formal, and still It has that elastic pliable air about it which fits it for a costume for any hour of the day. ‘The coat is made of the heaviest of Canton crepes. Its sleeves are large and wide at the cuffs. There is plenty of fulness to be held in loosely by the belt. There is a wide and folding collar to give that becoming setting to the head. And then there is a ning of soft cream colored radium which helps to draw together the ex- treme black of the dress and the ex- treme white of the coat, Extra Short Coat of Camel’s Hair. The warmer short coats coming along for fall have many new points to thrill our hearts when we ure look- ing for domething to make us look totally different from the way we have been looking all along. The ones L ‘mean are those in the short coat class and those that have stepped out of the sports identification to the extent of dropping all those strictly tailored lines. They retain, in some measures, the materials which have made the sports clothes so dear to us, but they are adding extra feminine touches that put up their stock of charm in the most extraordinary n aner. There is the litt camel's hair coat in the pictu You know what the material is, don't you? That warm, wooly surfaced thing from which top coats and motoring coats have been made all along. Well, now it appears im this little, short, embroidered jacket which steps back into the old days for its portion of ladylike quality and its graceful feminine appearance The sleeves have been embroidered with a pattern of the very most bril Mant wools upon an oyster white foun dation. And then the coat as been out, fitted and made with all of ai informality of tailoring that, a few seasons ago, would have been despised as “‘dressmaker's st Now th American girl has learned to like this looseness of fit, and she is welcoming it even to the realm of her out dacket which once had to be so strictly hard and fast to tailoring r “ A Homespun Suit in Gray. idea to wear & white coat at i Phe other picture on this page ghows 4 sult lovely gray home @pun made with all these new lines of carelessness and freedom. It is really, the evolution of the tweed sult fGretaining everything that made that uit the most popular one of man semerations und adding some features which will be a distinct relief to many s, THE EVENING WORLD, SATURDAY, AUGUST 5, 1922, Taintly(olored(oats .- H, look at all the feathers. O Feathers twirled around in new ways— feathers looking like sparse and graceful pinwheels— feathers drooping #0 thickly as to almost hide the faces underneath them—feathers languidly trailing away at the back and over the shoulders, Sd Well, these are not merely curtost- C4 tles. They are actual forerunners of nd the styles for the coming season. ; You know that miliinery always blossoms in a new season long before the really do, and it has a # too, of appearing In srnall quan- tities—a new idea he an astonish- ing change there, and pretty soon we surrounded by a whole new set of hats and turbans with which to “start calculations regarding our winter apparel. There is more in the nature of a hat than just the hat itself, It is the keynote by which the appearance of eS are FROM THE BRIM OF A BLACK SIVE FEATHERS. sirls who have grown tired of the obvious tweeds and who do not wish, for a moment, to give them up al- together. So, here ‘is the newer substitute for tweeds—a more charming and a sweeter thing with its box cout, its loose sleeves, its touches of bind'r and embroidery, and with all of the restraint in its making that marks it for a conspicuous member of — the modern fashion brigade. Black Hats With Lighter Short Coats. You see the dark sk: rts. You sce the light coats. And on you look about for the interesting additions as to hat and shoes. We ny thing more lovely than the bi hats n these Mustrations They provide t accents needed to ) the costumes pict quely and them down to that ex ity wh they 1 ed so perfootly t wt ul ‘ new " 0 k tor rodir With these short coats you will find at between type of hat, t ne hat post r VAbe best De as an neral « 1 tr 1 ! t 1 to be gee m pone 1 th the costume LEFT—A HOMESPUN SUIT OF GRAY By Janet Winslow. your whole costume is established—or at least {t is that if you are wise. You can take the lines of your hat and de- sign from them to a perfect whole, but if you fall to consider thm hat, then you have in store for yourself a large allowance of that uncomfortable. feeling which comes when your clothes, for some mysterious reason, are not just right. Consider the mys- tery, then, before you start to collect your new fall things, T.ook well into the character of hats in general be fore you make a final decision. And then be sure that you have chosen the most perfect surrounding for your face. If you do this, you will store up for yourself hours of pleasure and ease instead of those before mentioned ones of sem{-torture. Now the feathers of these new hats tell the beginnings of a whole new fashion story. There will be more formality of line, LOWER LEFT—ROYAL BLUE AIGRETTES TRAIL AND DROOP PANNE VELVET HAT. AT BOTTOM (LEFT)—FEATHERS FOR FALL HATS ARE THIN AS BROOMSTRAWS, AND CURL IN CIRCLES. BELOW \RIGHT)—THE MUSHROOM SHAPE HAS WREATH OF STRAIGHT AIGRETTES WITH A BAND OF BLACK RED BEADS. LOWER RIGHT—A LOVELY DISARRANGEMENT OF SOFT, BLU- PROTO FROM aeett hrs J 18 BORDERED AND BUTTONED IN BLUE. CENTRE—THIS LITTLE LOOSE, SHORT COAT IS MADE OF WHITE SILK AND WORN i WITH A BLACK SILK PLEATED SKIRT. ABOVE—THE SEPARATE SHORT COAT OF CAMEL’S HAIR IS EMBR WITH A BLACK SILK PLEATED SKIRT. SOIR RS AND: WORN Feathers Important for Early Fall Hat: A greater tendency toward achiev: the picturesque, a more studied desi; ua regards ul clothes, and especial! with relation to the hats. Notice the medium sized mushroom brim on one of the hats in the picture Tt has been shaped* with the greates of care to fran the character as wel aa the contour of the face beneath it It ts a brilllant achievement. mad: es—but stil ‘e enlarged and Then, back of the uther ends there band of beads all in bright red mixed with black, and as the hat itself is black, you see at once a certain sparkle besides the evi- dent design of the hat Panne velvet, always good for fall hats, is made up in this lot of hats Into a shape with a soft crown and really there is nothing more lovely than that shaping of the soft velvet along lines that are old new because ently they polsed. wreath of stiff f lurks a woven to your own peculiar shape of head. The feathers here twirl around in their own sweet way and succeed in & the hat, for they are all that called trimming anywhere about {t Then on another black hat there are arranged some long and short aigrettes in that fascinating shade of royal blue which is so beautiful when it is used next to a dead black. It Stands out as no other color can do and always makes an interesting fall and winter combination, grateful after we have given up the lighter colors of the late summer, : Now the tricorne com into every season, but there 1 eee more of its prominence foretold for the next fall months. On this page there 18 one of these with poaitive pinwheels of thin feathers Placed si that they make a most individual looking affair of the hat itself. In fact, aigrettes of all sorts wil be good and they will grow better and better no doubt as the season ad- vances. . seize your chance to sup- Ply tat wery becoming addition to he hat that shall be y: first days of fal Se Raita the Effective Hats Made of Tulle © many of the late season hats designed for wear on these very hottest daya of the season ar? made of thin and filmy layers of ma- ne, ‘There 1s one especially in the torm of little, close turban which has masses of bratded maline very loosely done for the brim and only one transparent layer of the maline pulled over the top of the head to m the crown Now the g ie using these little hats to combine with their own lovely hair and make a design as a composition, For instanoe, a red- huired girl will wear a light brown turban with the utmost effect, the le red curls rs and the shaded red wn of her head— \t shows through the