The evening world. Newspaper, June 12, 1922, Page 19

( iat a “There Is No Law Governing _the Style of Women’s Clothes—A Woman Should Wear What She Looks Best In.” ‘ou Should Not Buy What Looks Well on Your Neigh- bor, but What Is in Har- mony With Your Figure, Features, Coloring.” Fifth in a sertes of daily artt Cles based upon interviews with Miss Russelt and her own writings. Marguerite Mooers Marshall. A hier clothes for American women'’ one of Lillian Russell's : Generally admitted to be ‘of the best dressed women in merica, it was her boast that she er wore a French frock on the , Since she had found that she ould do better in this country, She one of the first American n of prominence to proclaim the periority of the American designer r his French or British competi- ‘6 Her elaboration of this patriotic oint of view and many of her other msible and helpful ideas on dress e set forth in the following arti- on “CLOTHES.” “Americans Jead the world in real making. American modistes and lors are at present the equals in the world. I have had my convic- tions confirmed by the open admira- my New York made clothing and hats have aroused abroad. “American clothes are the rage in Paris, London, on the Riviera. The ‘American woman has come into her own in every sense of the word, and Nowhere more than in the world @f fashion, London bows to her taste, Paris defers to her opinions and buy- @ra from both cities pay her the high- est of compli::*nts—imitation. In Ritz’s, at the Cecil, at the Carlton, at cot, at Longchamps, the buyers and signers of smart Parisian and Lon- on shops openly study the frocks of ‘the American women above all others. “For years the American woman has been the recognized and accepted prey ef the Parisian shopkeeper and mo- iste, and has been shown no mercy. ‘He unloaded all his bizarre colors and atyles upon money-laden but unthink- ins American women. But all that is hanged. The American womar has tisen in her knowledge and has shown the Parisian shopkeepers that she will have what she knews is becoming to her or nothing. She is no longer a lay figure on which he hangs his bizarre and impossible raiment at exorbitant prices. The American woman can no longer be fooled by Parisian mer- ehants. “There is.no law governing the » atyle of women's clothes. A wo- |) man should wear what she looks ) best in. She should select, first, colors that suit her complexion and add to her beauty. Then she should study her figure and have the goods made up so that the Bs finished costume will bring out ue her best lines and make her ap- , iF graceful. “Hats should be selected with a view bringing out the most perfect fea- 8 of the face and should be of a that allows the hair to be i d becomingly. “If a woman conforms to these gen- rules she will be well dressed. The trouble with many women is that they led astray by the freak creations > are put on the market to attract tention. The stage also influences the style of gowns worn by American ‘women. But the sensible woman should remember that stage costumes are de- signed to accentuate a setting and to shine in the spotlight. Many stage costumes border on the risque and are made to appeal to the taste of those who like such displays. “American women should learn that gaudy trinkets and Christmas tree ef- fects are not good style, “Costumes should be well fastened. void the use of pins and use buttons a eyelets. - “Another thing that adds to the tiveness of a well dressed woman her carriage. I have seen shop with their cheap costumes pre- went a far better appearance than Mrs, L was oduction of clothes of any artisans | What* LILLIAN: RUSSELL Has Said About ‘Clothes’ Fifth Avenue with her silks and sat- ins. The shop girls knew how to wear their clothes. The appearance of a costume is not wholly dependent on the cost of a fabric. “I believe that women spend too much on dress. Many of them do this through ignorance and not from any desire to be extravagant. Paris dressmakers have made ‘suckers’ of American wothen. Amerigan women have squandered thousands of dollars over there that could be spent to better ad- vantage at home. “As women become more enlight- ened their taste in what is beautiful and artistic increases. The time will come when women will not waste as much time on bothe:ing about dress as they do now, and at the same time they will be better dressed because they will know how to do it. — “The girl who can wear ready- Other Articles in the Series Will Be On— 6—THE STAGE 7—MARRIAGE 8—“IF I WERE MAYOR OF NEW YORK.” madé raiment without alterations has a comparatively easy puzzle to solve She buys lines and effects at whole- sale prices and adds embellishment in the form of her own handiwork. Many a girl who tan do beautiful embroid- ery and add artistic bits of trimming cannot fit or model her own clothes. Let the wholesaler do the designing and fitting and you add the little touches which stamp the flinished product with individuality. “As to lines, bear in mind that these must be fitted to your fig- ure. Unless very tall, you can- not stand any cutting of the fig- ure by horizontally applied trim- ming. “The very long-waisted woman must avold flounced skirts. The short- waisted woman must avoid trimmed blouses. The woman who spends much time outdoors must plan on spending a fair sum for taflored suits and matching hats. The ind6or, pur- ring, kittenish type of woman must spend more money on house frocks. “And bear in mind, always, that you should not buy what looks well on your next door neighbor, but what is in harmony with your figure, your features and your coloring. “A dowdy woman is an abomination, no matter how expensive or well made her costume. It is the duty of every woman to dress as well as her income will warrant. “Woman knows that if she can please a man she can rule him. She also knows that if he likes her looks it goes a long way toward pleasing him. Men are happier when the women of their cholge satisfy the eye. “Good clothes make the woman the real boss—the boss that is spelled with the biggest ‘B’ in the alphabet.” To-morrow’s article will give Miss V's opinions on “The Stag Forged Permit Like Coming Copyright, 1922 (New Few More Amendments Will Put Bootlegging in Class With Rail- roads, Mining and Agriculture. S now on. Reform wave is eighteen amendments above sea level and climbing, Tiherty used be statue. Now it's only statuette. der good old regime of butchers and profiteers, life was nothing but dues. Under beneficent sway of reform sharpshooters, life is mostly Dont's. Priceless freedom of our Mayflower ancestors has been marked down to 12% cents. Our citizens clamor for fberty or death, but they aren't getting it in the order named. And liberty is only excess luggage when you grab it on wrong side of rigor mortis. What the country wants and the city demands is the old three-way Government split—of the people, by the people, for the people. All we're getting now 1s Government for the people, and much too much of that. HUT season on open privileges is te * Un- landlords, Congress protects us from beer, wines and hooch and lets Walt Street nick us for cash, notes and colsteral. Fair enough. Wall Street is outside of corn whiskey belt. There is no law against distilling water in a vat of stock certificates and peddling re- sults to ticker addicts. You can buy anything you want on margin, but keep it off your hip. We are drifting into habits of statuto dodgers. We like to snatch what pro- pagandists taboo. Forbidden fruit is always sweet, even when it is a lemon, When law says we mustn't, desire RASPBERRY SHRUB, ‘ASH two quarts of very ripe raspberries and pour over them one quart cider vinegar; cover and let stand two days. With a wooden spoon mash the berries in the vinegar, strain through two thick- nesses of cheese-cloth into a dish con- taining two quarts of fresh berries, Allow to stand two more days. Mash and strain again. Add one cupful of sugar to every cup of juice and sim- mer fifteen minutes. Skim, strain and bottle for use. When ready to serve it may be diluted with water If desired, Strawberries or blackberries may be used in place of raspberries. GRAPE JUICE, To make a delicious drink that fur- nishés nourishment as well as retresh- ment, put into a glass three table- spoonfuls of grape juice. Add a tea- spoonful crushed ice, the stiffly A Few Good Openings By Neal R. O’Hara York Evening World) by Press Publishing Business Looks Line of Trade Co. says we must. And there you are, as the whale said to Jonah, Business with a future to it is the bootlegging biz. When a few more amendments are tied to constitutional kite we'll have bootleggers peddling oysters in months containing “R” and guys selling permits to wear steaw skimmers after Sept. 15. Don’t raise your be @ corporal. Put him hep to a trade that is dripping with gilt and let human nature take its course. Franchises to retall forbidden fruit and verboten vegetables are going to ay the keels of the topheavy fortunes for next few hundred years. Selling forged permits for sets of “Omar Khayyam" ought to stir up quite a bundle of dough. But that's only a cinder in a quarter-mile track for nursing a bankroll along. By the time when Reform has sprouted full wings there'll be revenue agents to bribe to let you wear tan shoes with full evening dress, J Some one must peddle illicit records of “Stein Song’? that phonograph companies distill. Secret dealers must be up crooked alleys selling cloves for illegal mince pies, The possibilities are boundless, like the North part of Greenland. Matches from Sweden must be smuggled by Anti-Cigarette League's fleet of cigar cutters. Some one’s got to brew moonshine soap to put @ collar of foam on Monda Fake pa: having Adam's time. When amendment season reaches full bloom, no one can be on the fence. Country will be divided into rich and poor—and bootleggers won't be grabbing their mail at the alms- houses, The handwriting is on the wall. The seats are on the band wugon. Step up now and park your- self pretty. for Sultry Days whipped white of one egg and a little powdered sugar. Fill the glass with plain or carbonated water. GINGER LEMONADE, Into two quarts of water put one- half pound Canton ginger, two cupfuls. sugar and the grated rind of three lemons. Cook twenty minutes, then add the juice of six lemons. Remove from fire and when coo! strain and set on Ice, CURRANT SHRUB. A decidedly cooling beverage to serve with the dinner is made of cur- rants or a mixture of currants and raspberries. Heat two quarts of the ripe berries until soft, then squeeze through a cheese-cloth bag. To each quart of juice add two teacupfuls of sugar and stir until dissolved, Fill pitcher almost half full o! ucked lee; place on this slices of one and pour over it the fruit juice. Serve very se'*s HE WANTS US ee (New York B Copyright, 1922, venting World) yy Prene Pub, Oo. By Maurice Ketten Look Your Best By Doris Doscher Copyright, 1922 (New York Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. EAR MISS DOSCHER: 1 am writing for your good advice in regard to |. | wear ngs with my bobbed hair and won- der if they possiblyover- heat my fore- hy 1 am fifteen years old, 5 feet 4 inches tall and weigh 120 pounds. Al- though | weigh much | am extremely thin, Pecially around my neck. Will you please tell me what | should weigh to look at least half-way healthy? D.C, D. Pimples usually come from an in- ternal cause. Eat less candy and sweets and plenty of fruits in their place and Lie pluples will readily dio- appear. At your age plenty of out- door sports are necessary to give you general development, as your figure changes very readily at this time Your weight i# about normal. Dear Miss Dosoher: a baby | had a skin ich itched dreadfully, and where | scratched scars re- mained, about a quarter of an inch in diameter, 1! am now eighteen and these holes are just as big and conspicuou have a lot of these 5 rms, and they are very jing when I go out into the business world and among inquisitive people. | have tried hot and cold water applications to no avail. Will you pl tell me of some remedy that will rid me of them? L. A. N. The condition you speak of could have been remedied at the time of its Occurrence by salves to alleviate the itching, but now they are permanent and no salve would be very effective Dear Miss Doscher: Can you please tell me what | can do to prevent freckles? | am out in the sun a great deal and go swimming all the ti: luring the summer. Also will you give me a remedy to make my hair grow thicker and longer? It is getting very poor from too frequent teas ing and curling. LAURELIE M. Kk. Apply a vanishing cream with a little powder to the face before ex posing it to.the sun. Thorough brush ing and massaging of the scalp every night encoyrages the growth of the hair, Dear Miss Doscher: | have been reading your col- umn and am coming to you for some advice. | am sixteen years old and my hands are old looking and lined. Can you suggest any- thing for it? ANXIOUS. Keeping the hands soft and white by the frequent applications of a good skin food and massaging thoroughly with an upward stroke fram the fin- gertips to the wrist, working well between each knuckle, helps to round out the hand and give it a much bet- ter shape. Dear Miss Doscher: | have suffered considerable em- barrassment through a patch of superficial veins on my nose, causing a red color. Would you kindly advise me how this can be best remedied permanently? WORRIED. Too strenuous blowing of the nos» often ruptures the small blood vessels near the skin of the nose. With careful handling they will soon fade out and disappear. Childhood’s Danger Signals By Dr. Charlotte C. West Copyrigh 66 TNEAD Vincent: | am @ girl years old and in love with a man ten years my senior. He wishes to walt for me until | am old enough to go out with him, but my father opposes this, saying he is too old for me. | am puzzled whether to allow this man to wait for me or to try to forget him. He is very fond of social life and enjoys going to parties, therefore | feel that | have no right to expect him to refrain from thi — Your attitude is a very broad one, However, twenty-six is not as old as you seem to imagine. Why not make an arrangement with the young man that he continue his social life and you go on with your schooling; then if you still care for each other when you are older there will be plenty of time for you to go about together. “Dear s Vincent: | am a young girl attending high school, and there | see a boy about two years by senior daily, {am very much interested him in would like to become acquainted and with him. first? Should | bow to him 1 am at a loss what to do, Copyright, 1922 (New York Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. SIMPLE SORE THROAT. OME mothers “‘coddle"’ their chil- S dren too much,“and for that rea- son make them hothouse plants every change in the temperature or exposure to bad weather brings on a “eold."* While this is extremely poor policy, equally bad judgment is sometimes shown In an attempt to toughen or harden a child by clothing it scantily and allowing it to run loose, ag it were, The fll effecta resulting from this wmode of procedure are seen very clearly among the children in the slum" districts who are martyrs to “eolds'’ and ied conditions be- cause they are insufficiently clothed and allowed to run out in all kinds of weather, Simple sore throat can be success y treated at home by the cold r cure, which Is much in vou present. It ts an old treatment ved. A cold compress is applied ) the neck and a strip of flannel is hound over it, The compress (mad of an old soft handkerchief) is fre quently changed so that the cold water 1s kept in constant contact with fy w at the neck. Cool draughts of water are given internally. This treatment is also good for a hoarse voice. A hoarse volce may be the forerunner of grave trouble and should never*be neglected. The sore- ness is tn the vocal cords, to which sprays, gargles and the like cannot be applied. Inhalations of medicated vapor are often extremely beneficial in cases of hoarseness. To a pint of bolling water add a tablespoonful of oll of eucalyptus, oil of turpentine and tinture of benzoin. A heavy towel should be thrown over the head and kettle containing the medicated water so that the vapor will be inhaled and will not escape. This repeated every three ¢r four hours will be found very satisfactory if the trouble {s due to a simple cold, A good old-fashioned throat gargle consists of; Tincture of \ron, 2 drama; eblorate of potash, 1 dra’ yromide of potassium, $ drams; extract of glycerine, 1 dram, and enough distilled water to make 4 ounces. Give u dos- sert spoonful of this in a winoglass of water a8 @ gargle every three or four hours. Children may wallow it with- out harm, Courtship and Marriage By Betty Vincent 1922 (New York Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. as | have rand many times that t+ the girl's place to speak first. h Ip me. ‘A SCHOOL GIRL.” THE FOURTH Wedding Anniversary The Silk, Fruits and Flowers Wedding. ‘By Emilie Hoffman. fourth observance of wedded j | bliss is listed as the fruits and flowers wedding, also as the silk anniversary. A combination of the two could be carried out nicely. For the table centre decoration con- struct four (suggestive of the fourth event) pillars, using pasteboard tubes and winding them with white or gray silk rfbbon, and either top them off with miniature urns of +matstock filled with delicate trailing flowers or twine vines around the pillars and finish these off with a ball top. Set pillars at rectangular corners; in cen- tre, seemingly suspended from the pillars by ribbons, have on oval re- ceptacle covered with silk flowers or raided ribbons and filled with fruit, either fresh or artificial. Four candlesticks may be substi- tuted for the pillars, Have candle shades of silk. The four-panelled shades would be suggestive of the oo- casion, and if pleated silk is used would be very pretty. A four-sided candle shade in silk with paper flow- ers in relief is effective. Bring nar- tow ribbons from the centrepiece to the plate of each guest and attach « tiny boutonniere of silk flowers to fin- inh off the place card. If refreshments are passed around, the table could be nicely arranged with the four-idea in mind; lay two wide streamers of silk ribbon across the table at right angles, allowing them to fall in four ends, one at each side of the table. At the four aides near edge of table place a candlestick eon the ribbon. At the top tie a bow or cluster loops of narrow H carry this in a garland to the next candlestick and again tle and so con- tinue around the four candles, Smi- lax might be intertwined with the rib- bon. As the occasion is one of flow- ers, these may be substituted for the candles. Use the slender single blos- som vases and put a single large flow- er in each, bringing the ribbon from one vase to another, as suggested. Between the ribbon runners have four doylies, upon which set small dishes of fruit. If crepe paper is substituted for the ribbon table scarves, use two tones and flute the edges, The flow- er holders may be made of crepe pa- per rope or matstock and the flowers and garlands may be of paper. The rooma should be a veritable bower of flowers, In the springtime branches of fruit blossoms are the most suitable, and in the fall grape, vines and apple tree branches with the suspending fruit make gorgeous dec- orations possible, During vhe, summer the floral decorations are no problem, and during the winter seasos the decorations may be just as elabcrate by the use of the crepe paper flowers aad tuits, which, if properiy maao, require close inspection to detect th substitution. Silk flowers and fruits Which embody the dual interpretation Of course most students who see of the celebration could be used to each other daily speak without wait- ing to be formally introduced. dropping a book or your handker~ chief at his boots and see what he does! “Dear Misa Vincent: Three months ago | was introduced to a young man two years my senior whom I like very much, He takes id fi a The other day his mother and | quarrelled and she said that if her son heard what | said he would never speak to me again. 1 had at week with him and he did not come to see me, though | did not believe this of him. Now, Miss Vingent, though | do not think | was in the wrong, do you think ight te ologize? | love this young man and would do anything to gain his friendship, “HEARTBROKEN.” When a girl loves a young man she is always most unwise to bicker with his mother or any of his family. I know would-be mothers-in-law can be most exasperating, but a tactful maiden avoids any argument, well knowing that every good gon loves his mother and respects ‘her, The mo- ment @ mother claims that a young lady has snubbed her or insulted her @ good son immediately comes to the front and stands by his mother. You do not owe the mother an apology on the ground that you were im the wrong if you do not believe this your- self, But you do owe this woman an apology because yau quarrelled with her in her own home, A visitor should always apologize under these ciroumstances and you may win back the approval of your sweetheart by taking this line, At least try to clear yourself and remember to be more tactful in the future, “Dear Mise Vincent: | have been friendly with a young wo- man for almost five years. We were very good friends until re- cently, when a slight quarrel soparated us. | stopped calling for a few weeks and now she is quite indifferent. She allows me to call one night a week, but de- clares we can never be anything but just friends, Please advi If you have been going with « young woman for five years it is time you either propose or cease to call. The young woman probably resents your attitude, \ excellent effect, but are prohibitive in Try ‘large quantities when viewed from the standpoint of the average purse. Suitable gifts for the four-year bride are fruit dish 5 flower holders, a set of fruit plates, fruit knives, orange spoons, a centre- plece embroidered in fruits and flow- era, fruit napkins, a plant, a fern dish and hanging basket filled with vines. If the choice is to be of silk there is @ large range to select from. A com- bination of the silk-fruitse-flowers idea would be embodied in @ silk runner, scarf or pillow embroidered fruits and flowers. A picture of fruits might be desirable. pe ese SI The Civil War’s “Last Battle.’’ The Civil War between the North- ern and Southern States practically ended with the surrender of Lee at Appomattox on April 9, 1865, although several other Confederate leaders car- ried on the confitet for some time af- ter Lee's surrender. Seventeen days after Lee's final defeat, Johnston aur- rendered his ebattered forces ‘at Durham, N, ©, The final “battle,” however, was a Confederate victory. It was fought at Balmito Ranch, in Texas, on the site where, nineteen years before, Gen. Taylor with 2,000 Americans had defeated Arista's 6,000 Mexicans in the Oret conflict of the war between the United States and Mexico, Thir- teen days later Gen. Kirby Smith surrendered the last Confederate army in Texas, and the war was over. The battle at Palmito Ranch brought to a close the hostilities be- ‘tween the North and South, but the legal termination of the war has jong been a subject in dispute. The Uni- ted States Supreme Court has been called upen several times to mark the legal termination of the war, but in various decisions hinging on this point different dates have been given. The United States Government de cided that the conflict closed on the first of June, 1865; but that is onty an arbitrary date, without special significance, adopted for the sake of convenience, Om another occasion, « few years after the war, the United States Congress decided officially that the war ony Aug. 20, 1866,