The evening world. Newspaper, June 3, 1922, Page 16

Not Merely a ~ Trimming Now; It Has Become an Actual Part of the Gown. Every Phase of This Decorative Novelty Is Seen in the New Cos- tumes. By Margery Wells. UST look -at the three pictures on this page and see where the em- broidery is placed. Not one read of it appears in any accepted Spot, but all of it shows forth where formerly the surfaces were left plain The fact is that the embroidery of tosday is not a trimming but an ac- tual part of the gown. It plays lis part in the general design and Upually tt appears when the fabric Méeds weighting. In this role it is doubly interesting for it serves a Purpose as well as constituting a dec- Oration, and as in all ways of art, itt beauty increases because of its @ylous utility. = Bmbroideries this season are being done with braids and ribbons as well with silk and woollen threads. y are colorful in the extreme. But the Russian influence is perhaps the rongest of all, for you will find the eds and blacks and oranges pre- dominating. Czecho-Slovakian some efit is, but the influence, too, mukes for All the bright tones in the rain- how and wil) have its expression in siartling hues. Braid Embroidery on a Silk Coat. Tt is uscleas to tell you how popular the silk couts really are. All you have to do is to look about you and see the myriads of heavy silk coats and capes that throng the streets. The former ure, perhaps, a bit smarter only because they are a trifle less nu- merous. But otherwise, you will find the capes quite as conspicuously beau- 1 But this season you must have your silk wrap embroidered in some way, and there can be no better {ustra- tion of the way the thing is done than the silk coat in the picture with its braid embroidered wide sleeves and gollar. The coat is black, as you may have Imagined, and the braiding is hi Veta — dress has achieved the extreme of formality, while at the same time it done in a silver gray which matches gives no appearance of stuffiness and the soft crepe lining of the same tone. ‘The. whole design is a symphony of the two colors which go to make It up. Tt ia graceful and becoming, and be- Yond a doubt it stands in the fore Fanks of fashion of the present mo- ment. * ~ Sill Embroidered Hat. Along with the silk coat the model fs wearing an embroidered hat which is one of the best examples of its kind. Tt is a close fitting turban, its lines shaped to harmonize with the hair and the shape of the head. But the interest centres in the embroidery which is done with gold and green threads against a silver gray back- ground. Tt ts a cool, chic little affair with the greatest potentialities for making the face under it look charming. It Matches the coat and still it intro- little extra bits of sparkle with Fgreen and gold lights that add a in variety and allure. Taffeta—Hand-Made. ‘The taffeta gown promises to be as Popular as ever this season, but now, 4n order to be in the swim, it must be Dand-made and hand-trimmed. The Picture on this page shows an ex- tremely interesting model when the whole overskirt has been constructed from an arrangement of handsome folds of the silk. The dress is dark blue, as so many of the summer taffetas are, and the bottom of the Overskirt—in fact, mostly all of that nega niade of crossed folded bars the same silk. “The strips of taffeta are folded and Pressed together and each one of them i@ no more than a quarter of an inch fm width. Where they cross they are stitched together by hand and they Make the most interesting sort of a pattern that constitutes the whole of the trimming on the gown, There arp, of course, little collars and cuffs, may or may not be worn, for = dress is a complete entity with- it them. Lace, Chiffon, Embroider y "Embroidery ts being done on the @iinner materials as well as on those do not pretend to be transparent, we are embroidered nets and em- Droidered organdies, each one of Which is as beautiful as anything that eould be imagined for the making of a summer dress. Om this page there is an organdy dery which is made up in com- mn with chiffon and lace. It is handsome a dress as you could to use for summer and it is es- lly suitable for wear at weddings @f at the most formal sorts of sum- mer entertainments. It has the great advantage of being entirely fitted for ‘the hottest weather, while at fhe @eme time it has about it a really ¢ not a simple feat to accomplish. Usually, when & #0wn looks at all cool, then it neces- ‘arily looks informal. But that is not tall the case in this instance, This heat. Ribbon Embroidery Very Popular. They are taking little, narrow and xoft ribbons now and using-them for embroidered patterns, The effect is lévely and particularly suitable for the decoration ef summer dresses. This is an old-fashioned idea, It was done a hundred years ago by the first American ladies who went to boarding school and learned to use their needies in jthe most creative expression of the day. Sometimes they worked in bits of chiffon and lace with the ribb@ embrotdery, but to-day we are keeping ours Intact and are keeping the ribbon Itself worked into flower patterns for the adorning of silks and satins in a most restrained but beautiful form of deco- ration. India Shawls Used for Em- broidered Trimming. If you have an India shawl, this is the time to use it for trimming or for the making of @ dress, for with the advent of the bright colored em- broideries these, and the Paisley shawls as well, have been ‘brought into the limelight in a most eurpris- ing fashion, a future issue of this page there will be more on this subject, but you must begin ro think about parting with your heirloom, if you have one, or rather about using it conspicuously in your clothes instead of allowing it to remain closed away in the bureau drawer. PHOTOS ™ tbe Metal Belts STAL belts are almost too pop- M ular, Every sort and condition of dress exhibits one. A black frock appliqued with the new Wwide-meshed lace has a low waistline that is baggy and bloused and belted by a girdle made of large silver plaques strung together with silver chains. When the gown is made of black, however, steel is more usual than silver, and the belts of stet! are usually quite heavy and thick in ap pearance. Sometimes big, colored stones are set between steel chains or trimmings—they are amethyst or turquoise, or emerald in color and richly cut to make them sparkle, Jet and ivory are often combined to make a girdle. In fact, any scheme with two metals combined or with one used alone in several sorts of cuttings seems to be acceptable. Among the long necklaces there ave many de to repeat the ideas of de- sign in the girdles, so that the two shall harmonize and together make the degoration entire for the gown or the sult, as the case may be. Take Your Old Evening Dresses on Your Vacation By Grace ACATIONISTS who are plan V ning to take evening dreases away with them will find it more satisfactory to take ‘‘fixed over” dresses instead of new ones. No matter how carefully new dresses are packed they are bound to get crushed before reaching their des- tination and old dresses when made over will serve the purpose and will look, just as good as new ones when unpacked. Even if they have become faded and worn they may be made just as fashionable as new ones For the evening dress which has become tiresome to the eye but still retains its newness all that is needed is a little touching up, such as change of trimming, added trimming, or it may have too much trimming, :e- moving same, which process would simplify it and add to its richness. Where change of trimming is re- ‘quired, the result is generally more successful if the new trimming is of M. Black. a different color, as it tends to give the gown a more novel effect At present everything points to @ big flower season with wide variety in color and style and flowers are being especially employed this year to adorn evening dresses. Flowers ar ranged on the shoulder straps, diag- onally acrogs the bodice and over on» shoulder, around the waist or here and there on the skirt will liven up a gown which is in need of extra trim- ming. Another excellent idea for the plain frock would be to get sume moire rib. bon about an inch wide. Put two rows around the waist about an inch and a half apart. Then tack three lengths of ribbon at eyen spaces apart at the top of the bodice, bringing the centre one straight down under both ribbons at the waist, The side ribbons should he brought down loosely over the upper waist ribbon and under the lower one It may be carried out in the same way in the back. All the ribbons should . ong mans ape 6 hang three or four below the skirt. Why does an evening gown appear dowdy? Almost invariably it is because it is overtrimmed. Some materials require very little or no trimming asthe quality of the texture brings out the richness of the material Simplicity is the keynote for such materials and too little trimming is better than too much, One seen recently was of ma- pas so elaborate any trimming would e superfluous. If the straight hem of an evening dress has become worn it can be cut off and scalloped or it can be rein- forced by another material and cov- ered by rows of gathered gicoted rib- bon or lace. Glimpses Into New York Shops By Emilie Hoffman HERE never was a time when Ap women had such opportunity to satisfy personal taste in color and style of dress as there is this sea- son, There is a bewildering array in colors and a wide diversity in the de- velopment of the garments displayed in the shops which is u proof that Dame Fashion is catering to individ- uality—the acknowledged fashion trait of the American woman. The dress with distinctive features js he r choice. In one shop there is « frock of Nile green crepe with or mings that would cause of the bolero effect in trimming and the bunch of grapes and em- broidered leaf fastened to the pocket with snaps so it can be removed when dress is laundered inches use colored trim- ul to her be- There seems to by 1 decided trend toward ribbed fabric AN) ‘chan dvess displayed by Fitth Av couturler ik of ribbed poplin in shade made up with the sida lined with orchid silk. Tae xraceful, long draped surplice blouse has a garland, of violets along one side of the front, ending in a corsage bouquet at the left side where the front skirt drapery is slightly caugiit up. ‘The new garden frocks are colorful and pretty, but there is a garden model that is serviceable as well ‘These are attracting favorable atten- t'on dn the shop where they are jeatured just now. They can scarce ly be included under the head of rocks for they are just long pant lottes that fasten with a frill abov: the ankles and a sleevless waist "hey are in one’ piece and button the shoulder and are worn witn nort sleeved white guimpe. hey come in small flowered cre- tonnes and the edges are tastefully finished with bright trimmings. An attractive hat in a onnet shape made of the same material, pit A with bright contrasting color, accom- panies the outfit, 4 Headdress For the | Summer By Janet Winslow HE summer head¢ a matter of impor the winter one, for opportunities of being se falls to pieces much more must be proof against humid Many of the newer d or le: 6 is more of an than has more n. and it ily, It sare more s “in character” as the exp sion goes. That is they reach their tentacles back into period designs to find inspiration and even exact pat- terns. Then for wear with these there are the period headdressings which are particularly becoming to types of girls. Of course, the more particularly suited to evening, as are also the frocks with which they are worn. On thi that low page there is to be seen air fixing that c tightly . to the lines of a long und gracefu neck. ‘This way of arranging the hai is quite lovely with one of those eve puffed taffeta frocks with it low line across tite shoulder frill of lace lying over the edge called *bertha Then there is the high weaddress designed for fluffy hair onty—that sort Which insists upon flytag every way for Sunday, The picture shows it done in a high, pointed knot with a careless, picturesque look about it especially pretty with some types of fi But for the strictly modern head dress see the one with the wares rolling over the ears, That is te way of hair arrangement that 1.0 great majority of girls are findins most satisfactory, And it has a way of going along with the modern stra nt lined dress in a particularly harmonious fashion It ie thy headdress next door to the bob and women who have been wearing their hair in this manner can very readily slip off into a bobbed cut without even being noticed. The cut hair properly waved, has much the same effect ag the modern dressing of lony hair and the two of them seem to express a girl's general feelings and tendencies of the present dag.