The evening world. Newspaper, May 13, 1922, Page 16

fh 16) By Margery Wells. W hear a lot of talk about the “Russian influence” this spring. But here are the real Russian garments in all their peasant originality—that is, in all their original’ peasant expression these blouses have not been subdued in the least degree, nor have they been adapted or changed in any way. They are as they grew on Russian soil, with all of the fulness and brightness and charm that make the things that the peasants love You ask whether they can be the things that women are wear- ing. They are just that At a party last week one of the smartest women. there removed her jong black silk coat, and un- derneath there was the loveliest Getting a By Grace M. Black. ILK articles of apparel pretty when new, wearing a few times they begin lose their lustre or they spotted and cannot be cleaned without leaving an ugly mark, This is a great disappointment to every girl, byt more especially to the average are very but after to become working girl who cannot afford to have many silk dresses and, despite the shabbiness of perhaps her ‘one nd on silk frock she has to con yae wearing it At last there is a for this. There is a new in pensive dye now on the market eifeh is very easily used, The beauty t is. it met only dyes the fabric + cleo washes it at the same time, ne It look just like new, Uv you bave a light colored dress 4 find it isn't suitable for ail oc- ons or if you have tired of the olor, it will be possible to make it an entirely new shade. "This is what one business girl did: She had a light gray kitten’s car futin dress which could be worn only on rare occasions because the color was so perishable. Not having a large * wardrobe, she wanted a more prac- tical dress, and not having the neces- sary means to buy a new one she obtained some dye and made it a beautiful shade of blue. This gave her a new dress at very little expense. Another clever business girl had a navy blue Canton crepe blouse trimmed with green, but after a short time the green faded and the Canton crepe lost its lustre. The style of the blouse was so becoming to her that she disliked to part with It, 80 she removed the green trimming and dyed the blouse with navy blue dye which restored its original sheen, gi ing it a clean and refreshing appear- ance withouws ruining its former color, I* place of the green trimming she put burnt. orange, making it more effective than it was when new. Find- What You Can Make in an Evening By Ada Newcomb. HAT made from ribbons is one A of the simplest of the hastily made accessories of summe! attire. It must be a little turban hat tn order to be quickly whacked to- gether but then every one needs a hat of this character and really can not very well get along without it First buy one of those cap-shaped turban frames made from buckram or willow. You must see that it ex- actly fits your head for a hat of this sort that wabbles about or is too tight is worse than no hat at all. Now cut out the top of the crown eaving only the lower portion to the seight of about four inches. Ove ie open space sew & piece of tarla ‘on that is fulled into # loose crown for a foundation; This process ‘only a hat from taking on that cast look which is the curse of of them, You will tind that a with its top hacked by tarla 1p 8 much softer and much more oming than éne which is built he arder foundation, Now cover the whole of black tarlatan, AVES ron many urban ve ayor thout itiiches. Then take three neh soft taffeta vid blue, and two shades of traid them together in a Ic end pro 1 to sew this braid o the oundation as already prepared tin at the back of the shape owe ige and tack it loose and round until 1 the he crown Now over the r irranged a knot wih streamers a ength hanging Iveoping effect at Your hat (s then something Ith @ blue sui Lwiepe street dress. 11 with one of the long “wich ere now so fashionable, strands of three fuschia you rea rout Live cape shape with a loosely held © tue shape of the frame and sewed the lower edge with quite long ribbon in colors of THE EVENIN MAY 13 of short Russian blouses, worn with a black skirt, being a repe- tition of the material in the coat. ‘The blouse, mind you, was not made of any handsome material, with only the embroidery motif taken from the Russian, No! it was the real, imported “Russian blouse, veritably snatched from the shoulders of some J, unknowing peasant and brought this country to grace a fashionable woman at a fashionable tea, Its foun ation material was some heavy homb n muslin and its embroidery was w done in brilliant wools right on the surface of the cream-white back- ground ‘This season we have Russian notes’ in every article of attire Russian belts, Russian headdresses, Russian coats and Russian bodices: But the best of the Russian things are the blouses, which represent the fe ing of that nation of many hundreds of years. If you can't have a real Russian blouse, then have one that Is as nearly ® copy as you can manage to buy build. You will find yourself fasci nated with the look of the thing and with the feeling it gives you as you wear it. You Will like the reality of the peasant embroidery, and you will shions [ ominant [ecorative have a blouse with a long life of wear and satisfaction before it. Blouse of a Balkan Peasant. The bodice pictured on this page the © with the longest, widest sleeve all--comes from the I an tates, where the women Wear them for their everyday dressing and for their costumes of state. This one has a foun yn material of heavy linen woven by hand and its embroidery is done in lant shadés of red with appliqued bits of dyed lace in the same vivid tone worke in between the effectively placed stitches, Of course, there are many adapta tions of this particular blouse shown in the shom ya Some are done on white voile, some on white linen, and some on cream colored or white silk, Lut invariably the embroidery is in some extraordinarily brilliant hue whether it be orange or red or yellow or blue, or even patches of heavy black against a thin and transparent white, A Russian Blouse Makes a Dress. Worn with the real, high Russian boots there is a real and unmarred blouse of Russian birth. All of ft New Dress at Little Cost ing the dyeing process so simple and snecessful, she repeated it whenever the Canton crepe was inclined to be- come dusty looking, each tyne chang- ing the trimming, thus making it serviceable and at the same time at- tractive After being laundered, light ce ored waists and summer dresses gen- erally lose their original tint, but Shoes With Low Heels OME one came from Waris the other day—she wus not a fash ion person, she was just narily well-dressed woman, She had all her little short-toed, high-heeled shoes ready to put on and make a great hit. Then she went out on th avenue and beheld all the low-heeled girls, And she came home in despai “Why, not any of my shoes ‘are going to do at all in this practical be efficient eountr: she wept. “lsee jothing but flat-heeled’ slippers and pumps.” She was right. We have become a nation of low-hecled women, and the shoe manufacturers declare that It is because of the actual demand of the women themselves. At the smart shoe shops you can find French heels, but they are so low that they are ab- solutely sensible. But most of the street pumps are frankly flat heeled, whether they are made of suede, of patent leather, of plain kid or various leathers and kids conthined, You can now be comfort- able about the feet, that is, If low heels are going to make you so. Some women declare that they do not like them, but one is inclined to doubt that statement. It sounds Ii} the woman who “must have corsets Try wearjng some of the new low heels and Kee whether you are not ab: solutely wedded to them within « week. The reformation has struck many women. Why not you? 1 y that it is in delicate shade can be vestored without the least trouble It Is a plea’ ure to hay# the means of making rment look just as fresh and pretty as it was when new after wearing it a considerable length: f time and to be able to look for ward to wearing it just as long, if not longer, in the future, knowing good condition The Fashion In Umbrellas URING the | jas been without rain, ast month hardly umbrel consequently, have for fashion ont of bi ed their way into the fore just s to be iny ance gives you so much more respect for yourself The gorgeous umbrella Jast season have magically dis peared, while lighter and more m ageable ones have taken their places Color 1s the thing for umbrellas. If you look above your head through a deep red, or a rich green, or a warm One might as well stylish, even if one out in the wet. A matt 4 day appear handies of p- n- blue tone you haye a feeling of good cheer that no pitter-patter of rain- drops can easily dispel. Then, too, shade of color falling across your face does much to add charm to a cheerful countenance or to supply an ounce of cheer to a gloomy or discouraged one There is, indeed, more sense than fle- tion in the colored umbrella. It is a good tonic for female good looks And then the little, short, colored umbretlas look so lively and smart when, they are swung over one’s arny if the rain is not falling. ‘They add just a touch of jauntiness which t+ not to be despised See, however, that your umbrella is of the right shape and color to suit the rest of your costume. Don't let it creep out of the picture G@ WORLD, SATURDAY 1922, lines and trimmings are strictly In is and beautiful appearance, comes this season Jn the most (bear! character, for it is. the real thing {¢ is from specimens such as this tiful tones and colorings. Now, with without any doubt. that we get 80 many of our best ideas touches of Russian embroidery, either Perhaps you think you would not for yuses to-day, We need not bought from some antique dealer, or like to wear it? Well, then, compare nec y copy them intact, .but we made by your own r nds, you it with any your own straight can t pattern from their beauty can get togeth issian blouse oF dresses and how very alike th and inject something from them into frock which will 1 great pride to are the designs that we make ourselVes. you and a constant oy who \t who said that we in A blouse exactly like this would Amer e developing a national joc too ter le with a strictly tai. tyne of dre It is, by actual com- jored suit, but there are many of the parison, ju! s simple and straig¥t suits and dresses of the present day ' and true to actual needs as the pa- with which it would be just right and vor t addition, Ratine Good for Summer Russian Dresses. Russian tional dresses of other countries, But 1 Russian at all in ter, In appearance or In feeling season you have your chance: t that style of dress, Con ss and char then te H t style eent i fashion has set Viele JU hs the sc f approval from foreign dow! everyday language—that is 4 a6 a tory, But it is one that has r nation all by itself, When yo) The Blouse of a Princess. to make sonisthing out of If for a dress occasion you wish you are much prouder of BODICE OF PALE to look distinetive and lovely, then f and the picture you present BLUE VELVET you might have something which fol. to the world than if you had every- lows the Ines and the ways of this thing expensive and wonderful with WARD- blouse made for one of India’s royal Which to work FROM THE hilood That thick, rough, Turkish towel- ROBE OF THE surface of blue velvet, re embroidered to giv ling cotton material has a wonderful mespun look about it, And it gold a lay PRINCESS OF DIA. IN- By Janet Winslow. HIS ye is quite the time r to be thinking of best ‘a boudoir things. it is) on its last tintex bowl le ready for to it now and least a aul chose at new underthings to n grown simpler and less intricate the passing of time di until now THE RUSSIAN BLOUSE OF is just two straight piece THE PEASANT BLOUSE, TRUE TO NATIVE CHARACTER —ONE OF THE SEA SON'S RAGES VNPERS 990 Ano CNOERWoon TING BOUDOIR CAP, The weather is making you think of of pretty, The shops are helping you. thin apparel as a matter of moment. The old lingerie is (a great deal of the You are wise if you put your mind few beautiful in that respect and to plenish your stock while the time ripe Ther the nighties. They | yourself with a night- HEAVY LINEN material, and- often literally nothing WITH BRIGHT more RED EMBROI- Of course, the simplicity of these DERY new nightrobes doesn't make them inexpensive or anything like that They covered with hand hem- stitehing and little, inconspicuous in- {8 of lace and bits of drawn work lattice work until they uuite lavish except first whieh alone als their phunness of But the fact is that many of the new nighties look more like little, in REAL LACE MAKES TABS OVER THE EARS ON A CLOSELY FIT- Note |s Dus sian.’ ' ERG LE Charming for Boudoir Wear formal house dresses except for the extreme delicacy Sf their coloring and the daintiness of the manner in which ihey P made. wide hems mstitching ¥ dd extra di Many of them show with utlinings of ith no edges of lace to oration. They have plain, narrow belts ma the belts for the one-pie and these, slipping through loops under wide armholes, tie at the front on the side just like a ferownup dress's belt, The boudoir caps are, most fascinating of a accessories, 1 have straight, like or perhaps, the of the lingerie seen woman scorn to wear The Batteau Neckline but shoulder a dress appears these days has a neckline which from shoulder to we most of the points ind squares und rounde lines straight and uncompromising one is the thing And it is very interesting to see how many women are wearing them who before were heard to state ‘that they never could see how they would be becomin nt funny thing, but the pro portions of the line the things that really count, As long as it is beautifully composed with the set of the head and the line of the yaaa SS, A CAP OF MOUSSELINE AND RIBBON FLOWERS WEAR, neck qepamtam ed 4 one, and then when she caught @ glimpse of herself arrayed in one she fell so hard that it was dificult in the future to release her from the meshes of a cap entanglement. At times of woe and badly frizzed hair the boudoir cap does perfect wonders in the way of est ment's notice, the plishing, at more 0 a mo- less ideal state. It makes up valiantly for cer- tain little lacks in one’s appearance which it would be foolish to let inter- fere with one's state of mind. And since lacks of this sort do interrupt the peace of life why not cleave toy the boudoir cap, which helps out ae 3 ly and so materially? Must Be Your Own and the spread of the it becomes a shoulders them autiful and a becoming thing It vequipes: taste—and taste only— to know what this proportion is and when it r the heautiful stage or passes t yint. But you aste. Every one has taste if we mot afraid te thelr own thoughts and be co ous enough to stand by their own decision You can weur a battean neckline, but it must be your own line, And then if you add a scarf a veil or something of the sort when you dom your outdoor clothes you will find that you have something so much smarter than the old neckline to which yew had become so attached and so REST-TIME FOR