The evening world. Newspaper, March 25, 1922, Page 20

r 8 = ll Smart Sport Frock Replaces Suit DESIGNS BY MILDRED LODEWICK By Mildred Lodewick. Oopyright, 1922 (New York Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. B always associate color with W spring, but this is beyond doubt to be the most colorful spring we have had for many years. Thia is due to the fad for sport clothes which, as we all know, would not be sporty unless they were very gay. Fifth Avenue these days resembles the boardwalk of a summer resort, Bright neck scarfs, striped, plaided or plain, flaunting about; vivid wool guits, with gay felt hata pulled over - one eye; collegiate shoes of two col- ers and bright stockings present an atmospheres unheard of at this time of the year in the city. But certainly this colorful spectacle is inspiring and pleasing; one wonders why we should not have tried it before, it is such a complete relief. Orchid, violet, mistletoe green, sky blue, rose ted, watermelon pink, mi- mosa yellow and periwinkle are a few of the colors one sees expressed in the popular tweed and camel's hair suits and cape suits. Jackets assume the easy lines of sport clothes, with patch or slash pockets, sometimes beltless, in box effect. Sometimes a plain coat will be supplemented with a skirt of check or plaid which combines the ex- act color of the coat with another. Fringed edges are used considerabiy to finish the sitirt and cuffs and collars, but more dignity is achieved by nor- mal methods of hems or bindings. When the suit is plain a contrasting color may be added by a checked silk collar and cuff set, or one of colored linen. A distinctive set of orange linen embrotdered in black and white added an individual touch to a tan suit I saw recently. Quite aa interesting caprice of the young girls who constitute our flapper class is the wearing of gay colored silk and wool hosiery, which” may match either the suit, the hat or the scarf. It is a wonderful thing that such irrelevant parts of a person's garb can be matched to perfection, and is due to the fact that our related trades and industries have found through the Textile Color Card Asso- ciation of the United States a color language. Euch color is given a name and number which they understand and which never changes, which is quite different from the time five years ago when no universal defini- tion of color” was known and every trade had a_ different conception of the same color and no two shades of the same color were alike. A woman may enter a store to-day and match her gown to her hosiery, or to a col ored veil, or ribbon, or hat trimming. or straw, or other fabric. Are many of you interested in the fad, which while seemingly insignif- feant, lends so much toward the fin- ished appearance of the well groomed woman—that of making cither by harmonious contrast, or matching color, one’s kerchief a telling note? Plain linen ones when faded may he enlivened with the same dyes used for lingerie, which as you all know comes in every desirable color, White lingerie, however, is necessary for wear under the sheer white blouses which complete the suit this spring, the colored sort being reserved for frocks. The girl who chooses a top coat this spring may gain the sportive atmos- phere of a suit through a frock such as the one [ have designed here and with which « gay striped seart and hat are worn. The blouse portion is composed of tan camel's huir cloth plaided in green, while plain green camel's hair cloth forms the skirt and undercuffs on the sleeves. The collar may also be green, but otherwise of white linen, with a black sutin tie. A pretentious monogram on the front of the blouse may be interpreted in various ways, a novel one being to cut it from colored kid and applique it on. The striking searf and matching hat which accompany this distine- tive little frock are made of plain crepe-knit silk in green or any de- sired color, with bands of henna or any contrasting colored ribbon stitched on. The effect/is Sportive, yet somewhat dressier than the ma- chine knitted scarfs, and richer. As you may well imagine, an out- fit like this I have designed could be developed at home, at very little cost, and therefore places within the grasp of the girl of small means the ability to appear as chic and stylish as any of her sisters; and really more indi- vidual. The girl in the sketch carries one ef the smart walking sticks which ginphasizes the swagger air of the popular sport apparel. A pocket in one’s (rock or suit to accommadate the berehie® is all one needs with a etick. for in it are Lept the toilet requisifes ua coin —o Gloves are of eearae, necessary ac cessories to our dress, and have this season proved to be very capricious. As you will note in the sketch, a long white glove, which supplements the short siceved frock, has requisitioned the long fringe from the domain of frocks for its especial ornamentation. In this way, the slender, gloved arm is given somewhat the graceful, drapey atmosphere of the flowing sleeve which is a part of so many frocks. Black and white silk braid instead of floss forme the fringe. Nothing lends such gracious charm to the woman of middle-age as a gracefully draped veil, and the way they are employed this year as long scarf.ends offers unusual opportun- ities be arrangement. Brought from one side over to the opposite shoulder ia effectively shown in the sketch where tiny floss tassels form a unique decoration to a henna colored lace veil. —"'=" . THE EVENING WORLD'S FASHION REVIEW SECTION, SATURDAY, MARCH 25, 1999. What to Make in an Evening By Ada Newcomb. A BREAKFAST JACKET. LREAKFAST JACKET is some- thing that you do not need every day, but when you do Want it you want it badly. Well, then, since it is so entirely simple to make, Why not have one in case of an emer- gency? All you do is to take a strip of satin or crepe a yard and a Qalf in length. Fold this in two, crosswise of the material. Cut a lilthe round place for the neck. Slit it up the front to. mect the neck and then bind all of the edges with something that is going to make it decorative. You bind the edges under the arms as well as the fronts and the bottom of the sack, for you see, you want the thing to be a sort of a seart or a cape with some little shape so that it can be laid about your shoulders when you are feeling weak and ill without causing ou too much exertion to get into it. f you have to twist and pull your self around to get it over your head why there isn’t much use in having it, is there? One of these little jacket coats was made of pink satin and was bound with white marabou. One was made of blue satin and bound with a string of ostrich feathers in the same shade, One was made of a.clear shade of yellow—for a black-haired smaitien and bound with a fluting of two-inch ribbon in a shade of light blue that set off the yellow perfectly. Another one was mude of a shell pink and was bound with one of those ehecked gold and black ribbons about a half inch in width. That is, the ribbon was set on straight around the edge so that the pattern of it became the decorution for the little coat. Colored Handkerchiefs for Dress Trimmings. AS it ever occurred to you to cut up some of the new colored handkerchiefs to use them for dress trimmings? Well, many of the smart designers are doing that, and there is no reason why you should not do it too, when there are so many of those vivid little spots of color at your disposal upon the handkerchief counters Take one of the littlest ones and ap- plique it on some part of your gown where a spot of color is needed and you will see how successful your at- tempt can be. One designer made a yoke, revers falling away trom that yoke, and high cuffs all out of printed linen handke: chiefs in colors of tose and tan. They were mounted on a tan velour dress and the effect of them was most amusing. They hud their practical wide too, for it was possible to re- move them and to subject them to a ‘washing process without any undue injury to their beauty and freshness For the Home Dressmaker Dear Miss Lodewick: | have five and a half yards of goods as per sample (brick red silk jersey) which | would like your advice as to making. Am_ twenty-five years old and weigh about 140 pounds. MRS. L. B. Gray cotton crepe or satin would be pretty as bias folds to finish portions as suggested in sketch, Self color and gray floss em- broidery sprinkled with steel beads for the two motifs Dear Miss Lodewick: | have some navy blue serge, but not enough for a one- piece dress. What contrasting mate- rial could | use With it? Would ap- preciate a design employing some embroidery. Am fifty years old, 56- inch bust measure. What color hat would look smart with a dark blue satin Canton crepe dress? MRS. H. B. Black satin cot ned in this way with either black braid or floss em- broidery would become you A nice black hat is always appropriace, well as a sclf-color one, but gray tan or dull blue are alsa pre vow t dark bl us Dear Miss Lodewick: My club is y- ing a spring dance, where we all intend to wear organdie dresses. There are various types of girls in the club, thin, stout, tall, small, &c., and we would ask you to please suggest a design that would be simple to make and appropriate for all. Our ages range from eighteen to twenty-one. MISS M. §S. P. Organdie dresses made Hke this could be bound with con trasting colored or gandie, while deticat ace oat front and juboting down side of skirt would lend sufficient dressiness The girls will probably choose different coloas for their dresses, und each could pass a half€ yard .to some one else whose frock contrasted prettily, to be used for the bindings A cluster of arti- Neial flowers could be added at side of girdle