The evening world. Newspaper, February 25, 1922, Page 15

ea i bey THE BYENING WORLD'S FASHION REVIEW SECTION, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 1922. ~ | 8 Our Hats Tell That Spring Is Near DESIGNS BY MILDRED LODEWICK. By Mildred Lodewick Copyright, 1922, (New York Evening World) by Press Publishing Co. PRING hats and flowers are nat- S ural affinities which appear as early as the Ist of February and not later than the Ist of March—that is, every one has admitted them by that time. Have we, not seen them venturing forth at this month on mild days, 'ending a savory touch to our tiresome winter togs? Flowers do not always come with their leaves, and likewise leaves do not always appear with flowers. And, too, With both flowers and leaves there is a marked inclination toward disguising. They do not seem anxious to reveal their natural sort, as a con- sequence of which one notes some very interesting manifestations. I have seen rose leaves that were rose leaves as sure as fate, but all cov- ered with shiny bright red lacquer. They were placed around the crown of a ‘black satin hat with an impres- sive air of distinction. And I have seen currants that were sapphire blue color, and grass that was orange, but- tercups that were purple, and roses that were green, The lacquered sur- faces which illuminated such flowered trimmings jast year are still smart’ and achieve somewhat of a failored atmosphere which the natural looking flowers could not give. otiaenemmatel One of the newest colors for spring millinery is periwinkle blue, which is as much a bluish violet as it is a vio- let blue. [ saw a hat made of this color satin, in « small shave that rolled up on one side, while on the other a bunch of the same color vio- lets was placed half on the under and haif on the upper side of the brim. As fabric hats are quite the most modish for the first spring days, many Women take to the task of mekins their own, and with the numerous an chic shapes of buckram which one can buy as foundations, it is not a difficult thing to do. If the shape is too large in the head size slash it up the back to past the centre of the crown, and then lap the edeés as much as necessary. Never atlempt to fit your silk to the brim, unless you are an expert, without first fitting a tissue paper pattern, There are shapes, however, which can be cov- ered with a straight bias strip stretched over it, but these are the narrow rolled brims that are even all around, TI wonder how many of you, when selecting your hats, stand before a mirror which reflects your’ entire form! You can readily appreciate the advantages of this way of suiting your hat to your form as well as youg face. If you have broad hips and narrow shoulders, for instance, you cannot wear a narrow brimmed hat, but rather should you select a good. sized brim which will balance you hips. Some times a trimming such as broad loops of ribbon extending out past a narrow or medium brim will accomplish the same effect as a broad brim, And speaking of brims, have you Noticed the difference between the thin edged one and that which hos a narrow fold or rol] finishing it? In the sightly drooping mushroom shapes many women cannot stand the thin edged brim, while the one finished with a fold is distinctly flattering. One of the hats [I have designed here features a tiny roll or cuff on the edge of its brim, as you will see in the lower left. It is a shape of suffi- cient dignity for the middle age woman, to whom it would lend a youthful air. The side of the brin where the roll occurs is narrower than the other, which is made te droop a bit more and has a long, fleecy, glycerined ostrich feather trailing from it. The feather starts at the left side—back of the crown and above it layers and layers of shiny rust color leaves contrast effectively. The up- per brim may be black satin or tat- feta, while the under one may be rust color georgette. The mode! at the ypper right affects a longer line from back to front, and an abbreviated back which rolls up. At every turn of the head it spells smartness. Then there’s a mysterious wisp of a lace veil, of course, long. slim and gracefully drooping down the side; and as a steadying influence t» its careless mood, a black cire ribbon streams along with it. And_ both these in a moment of gay challenge may smartly pretend to be a _ soft and filmy scarf Delicate brown lace may be combined with black or brown satin, or henna or rust color lace would also be effective. The berries which hold the scarf to the brim may be orange or applegreen, Na a fi. What to Make By Ada Newcomb. GIRDLES. HRI ave fH girdles! Almost every dress that is born just now necds a girdle. Collars three ways to make and cuffs are passe, but girdles are They are the fine touches that make the costume every time. right in the centre of gravity. Once you slip awey from the girdle that is made Everybody Is Wearing White v ALI. evening parties the smartest co'or of all is white. Everybody is wearing it. And brides of late months are reviving their wedding gowns so that they — be in line with what is going nD. The beauty of the white, too, is -ts strict simplicity, for usually the gowns are made of satin, which when draped makes the sort of costume which is guaranteed to make any figure look distinctive, White, like black, oan be so arranged that it is becoming to almost every one, and all women like to wear it, for it has that acme of simplicity which makes it always un interesting eve- ming thing. White dresses of soft ti.Meta are Particularly gomi. Then (hero are those of white crepe trimmed with long rows of pearls and traceries of crystals, White chiffon is good, too, for it is 90 extremely youthiut look- ing. They are making white sports suils for spring wear. And white top coats of thick, woollen materials are among the best there are, if you want a white hat, then have it made of twisted velvet. This is a new turban model, which is proving tts popularity just now. You may have a black crown ii you wish, but close to the face and hair there is a thick draping of the white with no trimming to mar the Gne curves of its outlines, Blouse of Tablecloth Damask ITH a skirt of blue serge W French designer has combined a Lilouse made ot pure white damask of the tublecloth and oapkin variety. We have all always been fond of this combination of dark bine ani white, for there is nothing which i fresher looking or more becoming to the average givl. But here, indeed, is a brand new manner of handlin:: the old and tried union of two colors Damask is now one of the rare and beautiful materials, so why not work it into the service where clothes are concernea? () AW ANY wih WS) WAY YR MN hi A NIZA UNG Sa ll A 4 i ; ; uy aCe in an Evening of the material from which the dress is made, then you are let loose in ua field where many and yarious sorts hold sway. So why not have them beantiful and suited to your individual tastes, and not so awlully expensive? All of possible, though you might not guess it once vou took a journey through the shops these things are to price the articles ‘Take a strip of gold galon one inch wide. Back it by a piece of the mu- tevial of the frock for girdle is intended. gether over and over along each edge. ‘Lip the ends by two gold tessels with two vivid red beads at their tops, You have girdle No, 1, which the Sew the two to- ake a handtul of cavicclored kin dergarten beads. (You can buy then: in wooden boxes at the Five-and-Ten,) String them in two rows close to gether, letting the colors come is they will, Tip the ends by two much larger beads, with silver tassels drip- ping from them. You have girdle No. 2 Take theee strips of ribbon each one-half inch in width. Make the aol- ars ved, yellow and black. Braid them together us you did your hair when vou were a very little gtr. fend the lvaiding by uw tussel of black on one end and « taase! of vellow on the other end, and muke the tassels your- sel(-by fringing out the ribbon and attaching the fringe to a big gold head at its lop to give it weight. You r have girdle No, 8 Silk Stockings Made to Look Like Wool O POPULAR have the wool stockte S ings become and so well do girls appreciate their colorings, that the manufacturers are making thine ner stockings to imitate the woollen ones in colorings You will find silk stoekings, thin enough and cool cnough to wear op the hottest of midsummer days, made up in a sort of pepper and salt effect that looks for all the world like the woolen hose of the winter time. The idea is that since there are so many which are fashionable’ tiie stockings must be kept in harmony. Now, « lot of peos sport shoes ple object to wearing woollen stoclt- ings ta the summer time, Some do not even like to wear thet in winter for they say they their feet most abominably. So, to keep the stockings in character with the imitations have might you say, but most girls scrateh shoes, these silk been invented, Cotton: ones do the trick, have become so pampered these days that they do not veally like to wear cottom stockings They insist that they do not Iike the feel of them, Woll, if they choose, they can new go on being expensive in their tastea, choosing stockings to fit their heavy them woven of the thinnest and most lux- urious silken threads. sport shoes and still baving have clocks on the sides. ‘There are black clocks gray clocks for Most of tie stockings for gray stovkings, black stockings, green clocks tor tan stockings, and so on through many combination vo! colorings, Lois of givls uve wearing, too, the very fancy blocked stockings that Carry an extremely sporty air with them. But one must have the thin- ‘nest of ankles in order to be able te indulge in this Very conspicuous variety of fout coyemng. However, they are us smart as can be whee the thin ankled-ytrm ware eiem.- ~ >