The evening world. Newspaper, February 25, 1922, Page 14

a“ 2 THK EVENING WORLD'S FASHION REVIEW SECTION, SATURDAY, FEBRUARY 26, 1922, The By Emilie Hoffman. Copyright, 192°, (New York Evening World) by Preas Publishing Co. N shopping panlance, it may be suid that interest is now being centred on fabrics. Women are preparing for the approaching Lenten season, during which it is customary to make up the summer frocks. Every woman wants at least one or two practical gingham dresses In her wardrobe, It hardly seems possible that ginghams could be more popular than they were last summer, but good authority tells us there are now 76,900 American looms turning out ginghams, which is an increase of one-third over those of last year, and then there are all the ginghams coming over from England, so it looks decidedly promis- ing for the gingham frock. Sponge cloth is a revised term for ratines. This fabric is also known as homespun. As is evidenced by the demand of Southern tourists, this is going to be extremely popular, and all merchants are displaying it prormi- nently. linens are coming back, too, and not only in the white, but all the fashionable shades such as heliotrope, fawn, reseda, terra-cotta, fire-red, Copenhagen, brown and so on, Cretonnes are no longer a novelty, although they ore advertised as such. We used them as trimmings last year and liked them so well that this year they form the major frock in com- bination with plain fabric or as an entire costume for country wear. The chintz effects are favored, but very likely women who are partial to strik- ing effects will wear th. large floral or conventional patterns that are are primarily designed for drapery purposes. : The organdies which have attained a high position in fashiondom must now share favor with the sheer ba- tistes and fine lawns. But the organ- dies are very beautiful this season Whether they be plain, printed or em- brofdered. And then there are the beautiful crepes and voiles that ave dressy and so nice for a cool summer day, the challies that make up s9 beautifully for negligees and childten’s dresses, besides the numerous attractive nov- elty weaves, The printed sheer sateens are an old favorite in a new form and appear in attractive designs —a cotton fabric for every occasion, from the organdy party dress to the crepe or challis negligee and the gingham house dress. In white fabries there is a wide choice because the coming season is emphatically a white one. White dresses in all materials will be ex- tremely modish. In most of the new fabrics white forms the background Helps EAR Miss Lodewick: Will you ad- vise me of a way that | might make wearable a perfectly good dark blue velvet dress which is too narrow across the bust? The dress is a simple one- piece model, with hand embroidery dec- erating the short sleeves and the ends of the broad girdle. Am thirty years of age. MRS. J. T. Insert dark blue erepe de Chine on the sides as suggested, outlining the sectious bands, *ome sort of bead tanding. silk tassels will add dignity. Dear Mise Lodewick: | am invited on a visit out in the Middle Weet and expect to remain a month. What clothes do you think | would heed? The friend | shall visit ie in moderate circumstances, interested in church affaire and local clube, so 1 shall accompany her, ne doubt, with velvec hand embroktered, or with Long to some of them. Am thirty- seven yeare of age. MRS. V. R. You will need a couple of practical ene-piees frocks of serge or velour or jersey, amd perhaps a sport skirt of black and white plaid or stripe with tailored satin blouse and black sweater. A couple of afternoon frocks of silk and.a dressier one of velvet or silk suitable for semi-formal for stripes, plaids, checks and floral designs. All white dresses in linen and homespun are being seen in great profusion at the Southern resorts, White in combination with black is considered very fashionable. In ginghams the black and white effects PARTY FROCKS Coming Season’s Modis predominate. In the sponge cloths the smartest results are obtained from the white fabrics with stripes, checks e. bg widely separated crossbars i* Flannels in the white and black stripes or checks are largely used for FOR.THE TWINS Here are two delightfully dainty party frocks for the “twins,” made of pink crepe chenette, picot edged ruffles with silk and velvet flowers. Cire Braid NE of the last cables from Paris says that cire braid or ribbon will be more popular than ever this season. Only, instead of being sewed on flat for edgings and rows of trimming, it is now looped into rosettes or bows, making a fluffier, airier sort of trimming. It will still be narrow as it has been in the past,,but it is kicking up its heels as it were. On your new hat try a pompom of cire ribbon. A large rosette at the waistline of an afternoon gown would in Rosettes be good. Loops of cire ribbon run- ning down the side of a skirt of silk crepe would be fascinating. I have seen it looped around the edge of a hat's brim and allowed to bob inter- estingly about the face. Even on the edges of skirts they are using it in short loops to make a finish there. But the smartest dictates of fash- ion say that it must not be in any way confined by stitching—that it must be a freo ribbon this season, al- lowed more or less to have the la of choosing its own way in ife. “blue is also prominent. h Fabrics sports wear. There is no doubt what- ever that next to the all white, the white and black will make up the smartest frocks of the season. In ginghams the checks are again fuvored and this year there is a pref- erence for the larger checks. Amon these the black and white has first choice, brown is much favored, then comes the red which was so popular lust year. Green, which always looks 80 cool, promises to be much worn, and yellow is forging ahead to the front in fashionable colors—all in com- bination with white. Of course, the blue and white check as well as the heliotrope and navy are staple shades and always in demand. In voiles and the sheer fabrics much light gray is seen. Wedgewood Jade green and the violet shades:appear in many cotton fabrics for those who prefer color. Temple orange and periwinkle purple are new shades of these two popular colors. Grass linen is a material that was considered ‘‘elegant’’ by fashionables half a century ago. It is being shown in natural color with embroidered dots in all the prevailing colors, This is a delightfully cool fabric, so will prob- ably become popular as the season ad- vances. White swiss with colored dots is another offering that will be much seen when the warm days ar- rive. Beaded Dresses EADED frocks have had such an B extended vogue that it seemed they must be replaced by some- thing new this year; but not so. The shops are still resplendent with lavish- ly beaded evening dresses, and after- noon frocks have beaded decora- tions. The fashionable three-piece street suit has a beaded blouse and even the sports suit often has a lingerie blouse with the bright touch in beads. Several buyers, just back from Paris, confirm the reports that beads are the leading trimming effects in French fashion circles, so it looks as though the beaded garments are elill a safe investment for the girl who must consider service in plan- ning her wardrobe. One Fifth Avenue shop is showing crepe de Chine dresses with handsome designs in stecl beads which, by the way, are very popular. These charm- ing dresses are the latest word in every detail and just the thing for in- formal evening occasions. Prices start at $39.50. Handsome beaded voiles are prominent. One shop is showing a yellow voile dress with a novel embroidered effect in beads of linen thread. An orchid crepe with a design in black and white beads is an- other attractive offering. A simple dance frock in canary color has an elaborate design embroidered in tiny white glass beads. for the Home Dressmaker occasions, and a semi-formal evening gown of black or brown lace, or per- haps of brick red dyed silk lace hav- ing wide but short sleeves and jagged skirt edge, with perhaps a flower cluster at side of girdle. If black or brown lace is chosen a colored chiffon girdle such as jade or henna would be pretty. Dear Miss Lodewick: Will you please advise me whether it will be proper to wear brown pumps and stockings with a dark brown canton crepe dress for ‘‘dress-up"’ affairs, or would it be too much brown, as the hat is of brown satin? ALICE B. Brown pumps and stockings would complete your costume in the best Possible way. They could be of satin or kid. Dear Miss Lodewick: | have some silver metal lace flouncing taken from an old eve- ning gown which 1 would like to use for a dress for my daugh- ter, who is 22 years old. I have enough for a 1% yard wide skirt and a piece for the bodice, What would you advise putting with it? Would appreciate a style, as | have copied many of your modele. MRS, G. Dull blue silk net hung over the lace and lifted on one side to reveal it with a rose faille ribbon bow. Fiat shaded ribbon roses around the low waistline, Dear Miss Lodewick: Will you eug- gest a simpie way to make up some brown kasha cloth for business? Am twenty-six years of age and will make the dress myself. Am 5 ft. 4 in. tall. MISS E. This model is simple, with wool fringe tied about the edges. You might have a tuilor do the pockets. The collar may be of iinen in green, henna or blue or violet. Dear Miss Lodewick: Being short and somewhat stout, it ie mot easy for me to sel becoming styles. | bought a dark blue crepe frock which hae an elongated waistline girdied with a narrow belt that el on each hip with silver es. Sleeves and neck are bound with green georgette. Can you suggest some way of adding some lengthening |i ac f ap- pear shorter than ever MARY F. There are innumerable ways of ac- complishing the desired result. Panels of dark blue ribbon from four to six inches wide attached under belt could drop below skirt edge in points. Two on each hip, close together, or two only in front. Dear Mies Lodewick: ft am writing to ask you what sort of arrangement for my hair you would deem becoming. |! am net anxious to have i Bobbed, but ~ ~ do not know whether to or not. My face is oval shaped, the lower portion quite heavy and cheeks fatter at the lower part than un- der the eyes. Large dark-brown eyes, rather high forehead. Thanking you, M. C. B. There are so many varied types of bobs that most every face can be suited. A shori cut which is brushed up high on ihc top and in front of- fers bangs to the forehead would prove becoming to you. Dear Miss Lodewick: 1 would great- ly appreciate a design from you for anafter- noon dress of becoming lines. thavevery narrow shoul- ders, which ap- pear quite a de- ficiency because of my large face. Am quite fat in the face, also hips, but upper portion of body ie slender, including my arms. Am twen- ty-five years of of age, 5 feet 3 inches tall, weigh 122 pounds, Almost any color becomes me, but what would you suggest ae smart for epring? MISS A. M. This design will broaden the effect of your shoulders. Fancy braid ap- plied on a brown Canton crepe or krepe-knit silk would be pretty. The circular-shaped side panels will give your hips a slender appearance. Cord- “ed Motifs Of dress silk. 2 Bors AS Pe . * & Pee fe of ee ae ee Sy Rom