The evening world. Newspaper, November 29, 1921, Page 25

‘ What the ‘High-Chested’| Girl Should Wear j BODICE OF FROCK FIRST CONSIDERATION Waistline’ Must Not Be Too Small in Propor- tion for Rounding of Upper Part of Figure— Trimmings on Bodice Are Taboo— Beads, Pearls, Narrow Ribbons Only Permissible Ornaments. Margery Wells Advises: By Margery Wells. Copyright, 1921, by the Press Publishing Co, (The New York Evening World.) HE full figure has various expressions. Now it is the girl with the high T chest to whom we turn our care and thoughts. She may be straight and thin and long of line in every other par- floular, but the build of the upper portion of her figure will be more abun- dantly developed. It is the bodice of the frock for your type which must be your first considera- @éon. You must take care that it be full enough over the breast, but not too full. ‘You must see that the gathers or pleats are (ee Where a waistline trim. ing helps to modify the line of a high chest is shown in the illustration at the left. Below is shown a straight frock of velvet accomplishing its perfect line by means of fullness cleverly distributed. @0 confined from their starting points that they flare just where it is neces- gary that they should and lie down peacefully at all other places. You must ponder over the waistline so that it be Rot too small in proportion for the rounding of the upper part of the fig- wre. In other words, your skirts will more or less take cara of themselves ff you add\art to the design of the ‘waist. Now, it my the high-chested figure which has confronting it the perilous danger of looking as though it is a “stylish stout.” Most of the time it fe no such thing. It is beautiful and altogether correct in line. But one error in judgment when the line of the bodice is considered, or not consid- ered, can throw the whole make-up of the costume into a fat expression, when it should be a thin one, or at feast one that is medium in propor- tion, ‘We will leave reducing methods out of the question. They fre all very well —but after all, they have nothing to do with clothes, Take the premise that the figure you have is the figure for you and then go about dressing it as it deserves. There is something so healthy and vital and wholesome and strong about the high-chested figure that whatever happens it should not be allowed to lose one atom of that sturdy quality which makes it what it is. It need not spring out and force its line upon the passerby but it can be subtle about demanding that every ene it meets shall- recognize the true beauty which is its own, While dark colors are not essential which would throw into relief the extending 1 ‘upper portion of the bodice. This dress is carried out in two tones of taupe—that indefinite color which can be almost lavender at times and again almost pink and then quite gray. Consequently, the play of the color of the ribbon etrips against the shiny background of the satin eurface is about as artistic a thing as could well be conceived for the particular sort of shape which is concerning us now. Other qualities about this gown are especially suitable for the ‘high chested figure. There is the fulness around the neckline, very cleverly distributed, with flat pleats at the shoulders and scattered gathers dis- tributed over the space reaching the middle of the front. Another sort of dress that is lovely for this figure is the one that has an opening at the front with ‘an insert there of lace, or of chiffon. or of bro- cade, or of cloth of gold, or of some other material that is interesting and suitable. If the line surrounding the insert 1s carefully managed the effect can be charming, for the softness of the arrangement has much to recom- mend it. Winter time and cold days bring the necessity for frocks that are warm, while often they must be dressy at the sume time. Now, velvet is one of the nicest materials for this sort of frock, and it ls one of those fabrics which are particularly becoming ‘to the figure with a@ full bust. The weight of the material and its texture seem to do something flattering that no other to this type of figure, still they offer the easiest method of gaining the de- sired effect without too much extra fuss and trouble. If you will notice a figure that is exaggerated in this par- ticular (and tt is only by studying exaggerations that we can reach any foundation principle) you will see at once how rhuch smaller it looks in esomething that is black or dark blue than it does in any more conapicuous colorings, And as for trimmings, they are absolutely taboo on the bodice of the frock. Beads and pearls and ornaments on narrow ribbons are the only permissible adornments and they are especially suitable for the figure you have to dress, By way of example, see the satin dress in the picture, the one worn by fhe girl who te adjusting her lace veil, ‘The trimming is cleverly congregated at the waistline in the shape of a col- lection of ribbon loops of varying lengths. You can seo at once what this arrangement accomplishes. It brings the.contour of the waistline out to meet the line established by the full chest. And, immediately, the up and down line of the bodice be- entirely straight, it stuff can accomplish’ with so great perfection, That alone fs all very well, but the design of the gown must then con- form its lines to the pace set by the material And in the velvet frock shown on this page that trick has been turned charmingly. Just enough fulness emerges from the neckline to make the ‘bodice agreeably loose in line, Then the skirt has been set on to the waist instead of making the frock in one piece. This accomplishes a subtle ft for the bodice which has no tendency to look set or hard, but which shows every tendency to be carefully adjusted to the figure it dresses. The girdle, then, ts left so loose that it stands out in a straight line with the width of the bust line. And, presto, no effect of largeness any- where about the figure has been given. ‘The drooping ornament from the front of the beaded girdle ts, then, another fine point in the design of’ the gown. It droops at just the proper point. It supplies that yariety of interest and ne which just saves the frock from any possibility of looking square. It adds that final touch without which the effect of the other we!l thought out lines might be lost in obscurity. The chain at the neckline, if the model were to let you see it underneath her hand, is @ bit of a repetition of that drooping line and extremely valuable to the whole design, though it looks 20 small a thing. ‘ H ee paz | DON'T FEEL WELL. | AH WORRIED ABouT MYSELF WHAT Woutd YOu DO |F ANY THING HAPPENED WHAT WOULD +O) DoF ANY THING HAPPENED Toa ME? earth will disarm’ Mrs. Jarr, looking up from her newspaper. “I have to read abou: it because Mrs. Gabb is organizing a men by Persistent Propaganda,’ and I am to be on the finance committee,’ and eo I want to read up on the ques- tion. All the nations want to disarm, don't they?” “Well, Japan is willing to reduce her navy as lons as she will not hav? ,, to scrap 6. many warships that woul leave her other than the strongest naval power on the Pacific,” Mr. Jare explained. “Then, too, France says she must keep her army big enoug” to protect her from Germany; and Italy wants permission to increase he: navy; and a strong sentiment is man- ifested in England that the Britisn Empire must, ag always, outnumbe* anv other three leading nations in her ships, and maintain the same pre- ponderance in all her naval equip- ment. England believes her existence ig dependent on her overwhelming su- periority at se: “How about our country, the United States?" asked Mrs. Jarr. “We are for peade and disarma ment, Lit we are not going to leave ourselves helpless,” replied Mr. Jart “Then . all bears out what Mrs Gabb says,” remarked Mrs. Jar? “There will be no disarmament unles. we spr-ad the propaganda of Wome. tor World Peace." “You mean Mrs. Gabb wants to col- lect money?” asked Mr, Jarr. “Why, she says it will take money,” Mrs. Jarr admitted, “but if I am om the finance committee raising money I won't kive to contribute if I give lay services, will 17 ‘How do I know?" replied Mr. Jars. “But what will Mrs. Gabb do with the money?” “She says we will have to have of- ficers and pay salaries to heads of departments whose enthusiasm and patriotism no money could buy; and office equipment, and money to print pamphlets for propaganda, and money to pay gifted pens like Mrs. Gabb and Mrs. Grabbit, and Clarice Mergen- thaler Postelwait and other noted publicists and advocates of peace to speak and write for us.” “That reminds me that a lot of peo- ple seem to be beating Mrs. Gabb and Mrs. Grabbit to it,” remarked Mr. Jarr. “For the last’ month my mail has been full of requests for money by individuals and organizations who are fighting for peace—and money, it would seem.” “Yes, but think of what it cost the earth, not alone in Pre ea ~The Jarr Family By Roy L. McCardell Copyrigat, 1921, by the Press Mublishing Co. ee O you think the nattons of tae lives but in money, to carry on wars,” asked id Mrs. J. ‘And I don't see that we will get any Liberty Bonds if we subscribe money new drive for ‘World Peace for Wo- {2,Pa¥, Mrs. and pay for speakers and postage and printing pamphle! card index systems”. Mrs. Jarr interrupted to say. surely are for peace and are resolved to end the horrors of war forever.” ' ‘And so is everybody else in this world, and I don't need any propa- ganda and nobody when any of my friends try to do any good in this world,” said Mrs. Jarr. don't forget Children!’" WELL . W/ORRIED ABOUT, | DON'T FEEL 1AM (The New York Evening World.) Copvrisns, Jarr. 6 EAR MISS VINCENT: “At least we got Liberty Bonds for good deal of it,” ventured Mr. Jarr. Twe years ago | met a chap whom | learned to love and he also expressed his love for me. We went together for some time, but several months ago his boy friend made trouble betwee us. Recently | received a letter from him asking if he might renew our friendship. ' love him more than any other man ever knew, so what do you advise? HOPEFUL.” This simply proves that if 2 young man really cares for you a third per- Gabb and Mrs. Grabbit laries and furnish offices for them and installing ‘You should not speak that way!" “You “You bet I am!" Mr. Jarr declared. else needs any Propaganda, but I note that all the son cannot separate you. By all Propaganda hounds are going to it— passing around the hat for them- means renew your friendship. selves,” “Dear Mise Vincent: For five “That's alwaye the way you talk years | have been friends with a in my school chum. “Still, the Peace Propaganda 1 will At present, however, we are put Up my money for cheerfully is i 0 high schools. for ‘Peace on Earth, yor ill to TRA ey school we are asked to give "Yes," Mr. Jarr chimed in, “ang Port to the various football ‘and baseball teams and the girls could have a chance to help us. ‘And Good Times for MMM HMMM M axi By Ore Mooers Marshall Copyright, 1921, by the Prose Publishing Co, (The New York Bvening World) OVE is a candle which burns highest in the wind of public disap+ Proval—and often low and feebly in the air of home. Many a man thinks his domestic partner should be a sparring Ppartner—paid to stand up and take whatever he has to offer in the way of criticism and putting up just enough of a defense to keep him in good fighting trim. Those ultra-affectionate notes women send to each other mean almost as much as the shoulder-slapping and the ‘dear-ld-boy” busi- ness of men, One of the reasons why a man likes to have his wife hold his over- coat, or put studs and cuff links in his shirt, is that he is thus enabled Surlily to repulse these small services whenever he has a grouch. “A woman,” complains a man, “takes every criticism of her sex as @ Personal affront.” And then when she ventures the opinion that men, as a whole, are selfish, or conceited, or fat—he fairly chatters with rage! In love-making, as in painting, an admirable technique will hide from the average eye the absence of sincerity. As a safety first measure, al! husbands who confide their troubles to “a woman who understands” should pick one with a bobbed coiffure, Then they won't go home wearing tnat long, golden hair on the coat sleeve. It is so easy for a man to hurt his wife's feelings that, like Lord Hastings, he must be astonished at his own moderation. Divorce is the period which ends the modern love story—or, rather, it's the exclamation point! ’ ~“ ra Courtship and Marriage By Betty Vincent 1021, by the Press Publishing Co, (Tae New York Evening World.) | asked this girl to go to a few games and she has refused. Do you think she hful or does not care for me? We both live on the same street and our parents are good friends. M. M. G. P. Perhaps this girl is not athletic in her tast Invite her to take a walk, go to a dance or some social affair. “Dear Miss Vincent: My mother me to marry a very wealthy young man who is very fond of me, but | cannot return his affections. When at a dani | wae introduced to a young man who also loves me. He has called at my home several times but my mother does not approve of him. He is not very well to do but has business enough to take care of me comfortably. What shall | do? TAIN.” Do not marcy the wealthy young man if you do not love him. But at the same time do not be too quick to wed the man who does not appeal to your mother. Of course, she is mare experienced in life and may be a bet- ter judge of character than you. Have # heart to heart talk with her and ask her why she does not approve of the man you like. “Dear Miss Vincent: Have been going with a young man for the last six months whom | am engaged to, although as yet he has not given mea ring. He does not work because he very wealthy and just drives about in r all day, He is a great chap for the boys and takes great crowds of them around with him. Although he says he likes me he seldom comes to see me than once a week. His peo- are very nice to me, but | if he ie the do you BROWN’ EYES” If this young man is very wealthy and has not given you an engage- ment ring, that fact alone rather in- dicates that he does not care as much as he should for you. Then if he has so much time he certainly ought to see you more frequently. It seems to me that you would be much happier with a man who goes to business every day, The idle young man seldom makes # desirable hus- band. To Win Game of Love YOUR INSPIRATION, YOUNG MA MUST RISE TO GREATER HEIG. For Cupid Is Learning to Use His Wings Resting Between Flights by Climbing Mountain Peaks. | The Heart of a e Girl By Caroline Crawford fOr Wot Peck Brectne Werth Which Man Will Peggy Choose for a Husband? The be of eee grt. SANFORD 18 CONFIDENTIAL. le was a very happy, bright, enthu- siastic Peggy who skipped back to her office that afternoon. It was good to be understood, good to be young and seemingly to have all life at your feet. Yes, that is ex- actly the way every girl of eigh- teen feels! All lite does seem to be at her feet. It may be conceited, in fact, it ts de- cidedly conceited, but when one is young and the bloom of health is upon cheeks and in one’s eyes, when one {js optimistic because all life looks good, when one sees and thinks clear- ly and is able to put things clearly M before others why. shouldn't one feel this way? Doesn't the robin rejoice in his own red breast? Doesn't the rose glory in her own beauty and fragrance? Then why shouldn't the young girl rejoice in her own beauty, health and confidence in life? Peggy Dayton appreciated her youth. She loved life and she wanted to make the most of it. She was be- ginning to take great interest in her business life, she treasured the com- panionship of Billy Bracton, she ap- preciated the attention of Townley and she felt an all absorbing interest in John Sanford. Love? She loved the world! She adored life. She could be eigiteen forevi That afternoon Miss Smith had a headache and went home an hour earlier. This left Peggy and Sanford alone. For several minutes Peggy's machine tapped on steadily, then she finished her work and laid it upon his desk. Going back to her desk she turned to a novel she had commenced that morning upon the subway. But the novel did not hold her attention lon, She found herself wondering if she nad typed that last letter without a flaw. Perfect typing, correctly spelled, correctly punctuated and framed in the exact words of the per- son who dictated was her one ambi- tion now. Presently Sanford came over to her desk. He was smiling and there was an unusually kind light in his eyes. “Permit me to compliment you upon the improvement in your work, Miss Dayton,” he said. “TI have been no- ticing what excellent letters you have been turning out this week. You are so young that I believe in encour ing you.” Peggy could feel the color mount- ing to her cheeks. She was pleased he had noticed her marked improve- ment, but she knew he very little guessed why she had wished to do such excellent work. Mere man, even # forty-five, is not of an analytic turn of mind when compared to a girl of eighteen. Man accepts circum- stances, but even feminine eighteen asks “why? “IT am glad that you noticed how much better my letters are compared to those of the first of the week,” said Peggy. “I have been studying up @ little from some of my old text books.” “L have noticed it, be assured,” re- plied Sanford and he started for his desk but turned back to Peggy and took Miss Smith's chair. “You make me think very much of a little girl I used to know once,” he said, looking rather fatherly at Peggy. “L have often thought how much you resembled this young woman, in fact my flancee, Miss Dayton. Of course she didn't have bobbed hair, because it wasn't the style in those days, but she had the same chestnut brown hair, the eame deep blue eyes and some mannerisms very similar to yours. “We were engaged to be married and everything was ready for the wedding when she caught a severe cold which developed into pneumonia. Well, Miss Dayton, she died and since then I have devoted myself to the care of my mother.” Peggy's deep silence meant more than anything she could have said. “lL wonder if next Saturday after- noon you would drive around in my car with me and meet my mother?” asked Sanford after a moment's hesi- tation, “She loved this girl as much as I did and | know your sunny dis- position and similar personality would greatly cheer her.” hould be pleased to do this,” said Peggy, and in the warmth of her heart she was thinking what void she might fill in the life of woman—the mother of John Sanford the man she admired, the man who By Ruth Snyder. Committe ‘tow York torenine UPID ts flying high no If you want to win @ don’t court her in the old saic way, It won't work. {t's heart up in the air and prop her. Leo Bartz of Detroit wi won his fair lady via air pigeon Take your girl to the top of Piki Peak for breakfast—and she'ti fit your arms, That's what happened bik: Mr. Anthony Niedt of this city. If you want to arrange a undue wedding follow the example of e Grubbs of Alabama—airplanes, lot pep, dancing and motion pictures 'f the mourners. Or, you might go on the summit of Mount Ranier in raging blizzard and start your matrl. monial storm that a-way. No matter how you look at it, question of going up in the air, bi gure to bring Cupid along with, You'll generally find it will help ters out, George Hauser of pte was Vi much in love with Mi red AE one of the fest ic teachers down Mineola way. | George wanted Mildred to be, Wis. of the production dephrtment Gs Curtiss Engineering Company, finally able to produce what Mke a good idea. So he im Dick Dewey, a former overseas | tenant, into turning Cupid. So Die out his trusty biplane—and the: @ltt= tudinal courtship began. Up, they went. At 3,000 feet, al so sure, “Guess I better go up highal reflected the pilot. Up 500 more ff Armstrong seemed to be At a baby/* shouted Cupid te, winds, and down through the beams they shot to earth. But, for a little while. When the day is announced, they are go again, When a man living in Detroit @ a heap about a girl living way o Colorado, he has to cudgel his for some way to court her. Cu not always a favorite in the Free Delivery Branch of Uncle postal route. So Leo Bartz decided to send 4 you be mine?” wa eat missive. Away went the aerial senger on his 1,800-mile jor After forty-four days of Ryne N pered by an injured ieg vented proper rest during tne Cupid Skylark retw “Ye the laconic message from Mar; . Eugene Niedt,| who r climaxed a romantic courtship plain-everyday-ordinary church ding, had a much more unique © He took Rosita Ai they they mai h the “Will you? “Yes, I will.” It was all due to altitude. Last September, all Alabama® talking about a most unusual ding. The minister who started the knot was in an airplane crashed into a tree; blast siren at a lumber plent anno the arri of the wedding p the alt. a thousand wedding were seated at a tuvie in @ church built for the cerenron; one end could not hear speakers the other. Dancing and motion pictures provided for the amusement of. chief mourners. Katherine Allil s the bride and Allen Grubbs, fe bridegroom, A pleasant time. was iid yall we Braving a raging blizzard in @ ascent, Lenore Allaine of: burn Edward J. Hamil Buckley 'l fully and respectively, and revi agreed that they could stand than a seventy-five mile gale, gether. e in for It Hans Fuhrer, Swiss guide, played @ wedding march on his mouth o All the wedding guests agreed played the air real well consis the gale. So, {f you want to get ma ane Her Up and Give Her "as the beasties song reads, AT be You Comrie, 1—For what purpo firet used, thereby getting its 2—How man: erainaniie inet piano keyboard? the shape of the oot ig @ honeycomb? 5—What is the transiucent called, usually the manufactu' ark, seen when paper is 6—Of what modern domestic a was the eohippus a primitive tor? 7--When an adult is standin level, about how many miles di the 8—In what two seas do Old W: nges principally grow? 9—About how many pounds of are in a man’s medium weight suit 10—Which was used first, the, dle or the lame? ANSWERS. 1—Pencil erasers. Feldspar. 4—He' mark. 6—Horse, diterranean and Red.