The evening world. Newspaper, October 22, 1919, Page 24

{ t \ a me een Nee WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 1919 Women’s Business in Life, To Mother and Manage Men Despite Their Claims to Business, Professional and| Political Achievement, They Resort to the Subtle Lure of Tempting Silk Stockings, Peek-a- Boo Waists and “‘Makeup”’ to Make Impressions on Men. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Cugeriaht, 1919, ty The Prem Publishing On (The New York Brening World) woman! ‘ HERE IS no modern +] “Woman was in the beginning, is now and ever shall de, ‘Woman's two great roles in the world drama—mother and en- ehantress—do not change. Often, as in the case of Eve, both roles are played by the same woman. But the greatest fallacy of the twentieth cen- tury is the notion that there is a ‘new’ woman, one who can shine in poll- ‘thes, in business, in industry and whose orbit may be independent of that of man.” fot to me ma: ja attribute those’ tittncots 80 jescueeery that they| that in a spirit of criticism, for I are positively exciting—please do not/ consider woman ts @ failure uniess ‘stone my windows, But when I read| she is a sex success. But the pretty them in @ magazine article with the ¢irl, playing her typewriter keys as Provocative “title, “Eve—Yesterday,| her mother played the piano, wearing To-Day, Forever the Same,” 1/ transparent blouses, ber hair elabor- thought them {nteresting and novel| ately coiffured, her feet and ankles enough to merit further discussion. | attractively in evidence—what is she Be I subwayed to the apartment of| but the eternal buntress? Consider the courageous author, Mrs. G. Vere| the tremendously high matrimonial ‘Tyler, widely known as a novelist,| rate among stenographers and @ramatist and short story writer.| typists. Listen to the complaint of! Although ehe prefers to stand firmly| any business man that, as soon as a om her fictional feet, it is interesting} woman employee ts of value to him, to know that Mrs. Tyler is a mem-/ she resigns to get married ber of an old Virginia family and the} “By the way, I should Ike to ask daughter-in-law of President Tyler,| the ghost of the Queen of Sheba if baving married one of the younger) she thinks woman to-day Js different ehildren of his late second marriag®| trom woman in her day. I am sure “Do you really maintain,” I asked| Sheba would agree with me that; Mrs. Tyler, “that woman has not pro-| there never was a period when women reseed at all from our earliest tra-|in general were eo absolutely given dition of her, that the yote, the PaY| over to the follies of adornment as | envelope and all the other modern improvements of her lot have not made of her a different person from the primitive female?” “Let me tell you ao little story @imilar to that Lord Dunsany told you,” emiled the heretical analyst of ber sex. “There WAS a woman. There still IS. GHD DOESN'T CHANGE! ““Despite her claims to business, Professional and political achteve- gent, isn't woman to-day, if you ‘put her under microscope, simply they are to-day. They wear furs in summer, expose their throats in win- ter, adopt skirts too narrow to step in, shoes that distort the feet and ap- plaud a moving picture showing off stockings at $300 a pair, “Bven the dusiness woman who seems to have eliminated her sex, who dresses manishly, works furi- ously, disdains romance and men—is she a ‘new’ woman? She ia not! Her prototype has existed for centu- ries in the undersexed spinster, who disliked men because men disliked What she has ever been—the silent Rader, the enchantress, the temp- the wife, the mother and her. “Woman's great business in tfe ts to manage men and to mother them,” Hopwood's Gold Digger? With finished Mrs. Tyler. “In eo far as don’t improve with age. About every cepted, that many married men wear clothes their wives select. Friend wife ts too apt’to pick out a sult “that wears like iron”—and that has the cut of the vintage of 1888. ‘That was @ good vintage, but clothes | fae @ ond fact, but generally ac- exception of the arts of writing 16, excursions into industry and poli- | % ten John J. Doe goes Bolshevik, acting—which depend primarily ties impair her ®eauty and charm, she rebels, and decides to buy himself a emotion and its transference tO 1,4 taiture—not a success. She does audience—women have not won 1+ nena a pay-envelope or @ vote to distinction in any fleld OUt- Drotect her; the subtlety nature gave fide the two careers indicated by Ba 167 9 pe=tect protection. It is women dure, the siren and the mother. who have been exploiting men all “Who are the great women findD~' 1125, ages, not the other way around. Gers? “Who aro the natiomlly mint way nature's intention when Known women manufacturers? How 01. ade woman beautiful and phys- jieally weak, man gusceptible to ‘beauty and eager to protect. But ¢ures? How many women are domi-) no need to worry about the ther nating forces in shop, offlee, or £90-| 5 caiteg ‘modern’ woman. ‘The wave sexy? of hysteria which produced her will a she part fe ry Bacar gt ore subside more quickly than it cose.” ——— fer world democracy, although even . TWO MINUTES OF OPTIMISM | function of the mother, But because, ip an emergency, they took the place @f men in shops and factories, in devators and street cars, have women done anything of permanent ‘value for themselves and the world? woman find herself @ pow- By Herman J. Stich Canrrent. 3919, ty The Prowe Rubitsing Co If He Knew. PESSIMIST is a man who ts lind to life's sunshine, deaf to life's music, dumb to beauty’s gre playing no commanding part. 19] sppeais, He is always cheering & they were given the vote) crudge, always grudging a cheer, for- ever picking flaws and never picking flowers. He is a night ow! in human suise, perpetually gloating in dark- was simply spowed under. ness, perpetually morbid on the sor- Bren women here in New York who! ai ‘side of humanity. He is never Helped out the transportatign com-| rinarul of the goodness of things, panies during the war are belng Fe-| siveys mindful of the badness of placed by men now that they are Ob-| things, continually damnmg the reat Ginetie of us because of the weaknesses of a . “Men simply do not take woman! few of us, He has saddened more seriously in these new fields she! tives, broken more hearts, blasted secks to enter,” summed up Mrs more hopes than almost any other fyler. “The political and economic) amiction to which mankind ts heir status she has achieved is in no WAY) of prey. He never makes the world Droportionate to the sacrifices and) smite; he always makes the world forts she has made with the idea of mourn; he wears sores on the world's showing how nearly sbo can take) pack He bas never dissolved a single man'e place. As to distinction,| cloud; never kissed away a tiniest achievement, the most feminist lead-| tear; never soothed away a fear; ere of woman can say for ber is that) never soothed out a sear; never al- she WILL BE-—some time in the] j,. heart-rending Qpuht: Mo Gay Vague future—as great @ business or! oy ct dawned fair enough but what he figure as man pow is.” could shadow it. No morning ever “But doesn't woman's effort to 40) smiled radiant enough but what he ‘the things men are doing, even If she! could dim it. No child ever laughed very woman running for Parlla- A pessimist 1s a man who never en- foys anything; be eventually kills his Yat cynically. capacity to enjoy, and then because “Do you know what woman's en-| he has tt not in him to enjoy he be- @zance into business and politics! grudges happiness in others. Ho is means?” ehe inquired. “t/a pariah, an eternal outcast, a Philis- she is playing the same old/tine. He is incessantly serving ve- with new weapons. It means| racity with vinegar. He is the bacillus he in tired of waiting at bome for a| of sadness and gloom and unhappi- ‘and that she has gone out into| ness Kicked about in one place, and byways to find) cuffed about to another, he drags his Joy-dispelling self. No man can stand It was the typewriter which first | him; no woman ever loves him; no ‘Women into the business | one will have him around, If he BPE eas Sens cnowttee eone knew what even onr dogs thought of Again Mrs. Tyler smiled tolerantly, suit, Often the results are disastrous. He goes by the cuts on the magazine Pages, and generally gets a suit that bags at the knees, creases at the shoulder and frazzles at the cuff. It's all in the cloth, but John doesn't know that, and wouldn't know how to pick good cloth if he did. But there are simple and easy tests of the wearing qualities of cloth, ac- cording to Martin D. Stevers, writing ia the Mlustrated World. ‘The difference between a woollen @nd @ worsted cloth lies in the way the fibre is made into thread. A woollen thread ts one in which the Mbres are matted, twisted and mingled together in much the same way that uncombed tousled hair appears upon the human head. A worsted is a thread in which tho long fibres of which it is made have been carefully combed and laid parallel before being twisted together, and the thread as a whole has a neat finish, like the slickly plastered hair on the head or one who has just left the barber, The worsted thread is stout and firm; the woollen thread is not. And the two cloths reflect this difference. On the points of shininess and ten- dency to “bag,” one can avoid either evil—but one cannot avoid both. A worsted cloth holds its shape, but wears shiny; a woollen cloth wears threadbare instead of shiny, but will not hold Its shape while doing so, ‘The reason for the difference in Dehavior is this: on all clotus there js @ fuzzy surface called the “nap, which is given by the stray fibres protruding from the threads, In a worsted cloth, this covering is sparse and thin, for the essence of a worsted is that most of the fibres have been straightened out and twisted into the body of the thread. Tho thread, therefore, is firm and smooth—and when the sparse nap is worn off the smooth threads appear and the cloth seems to “shine,” the degree of shininess depending upon the closeness of the weave, In a woollen fabric, this does not happen, Under the microscope a woollen thread appears to be a tan- gled skein of hair rather than a well-twisted cable, Consequently, goods made of such thread carry a heavy nap, and one which does not disappear so readily under wear, In fact, the nap persists almost until the threads themselves are gone, for the threads are fuzzy in themselves and tend to release dybres and thus renew the nap. Therefore the cloth never appears shiny, But also such threads have no great tensile strength. They “give” readily under any strain goods will “bag” at the knees and elbows and fal! readily into creases, partioularly in the sloeves just be- neath the elbows. Sow baginning has ‘been primar- him he would take to the tall timbers} Good woollens are almost impos- @% quccess. I am not saying forever, aT weary eile to Gnd in “snappy” ready- has a characteristic diagonal ri single, and the pla the so-called “b The so-called plain weave (above) is the simplest and oldest of all. The weave is not used extensively for men’s clothes. Tho amaller square gives a rough idea of the texture of the firished cloth. The “twill” weave (at the left) is the leading ¢ m in the insert. imere twill (below) is often onal novelties, partioularly Using double threads (right) instead of equentiy the | mades, for this feason: Cloth man- ufacturers and clothing figms have learned that the average American, up to fifty-five or sixty, wants “snap- py” young men's models and does not want them to wear too long. He prefers to buy oftener and to take a cheaper quality when he buys. Consequently, the great bulk of cloth as made up to-day ids not built to last. Cloth manufacturers now are consciously producing a cloth de- signed to last from three to six months, The salesman will tel you so tm- mediately if you ask him, and back up ‘his statement with the argument, “Why should you want to pay for better cloth? Styles will change next season and you'd have an out-of- date sult on your hands if the goods lasted.” Another thing to watch for—espe- cially in less expensive grades—is the “union” cloth, A “union” is a cloth A WORSTED CLOTH HOLDS THE SHAPE BUT WEARS SHINY; A WOOLLEN CLOTH WEARS j THREADBARE INSTEAD OF SHINY, BUT WILL NOT HOLD ITS SHAPE WHILE DOING SO HHH 4HiHiHiHiI 434i iiHRHinHiHe+4 eee eee I4AHHH HHH HHinnHinnti LaLULDeLLe eles Ss tI WS tii Aritit Shaan IT STARTED By Hermine Neustadtl Mourning Colors. © prone are we to disregard any civilization but our own that We are apt to consider peculiar and freakish ideas and customs that | do not conform to our own national made of different kinds of thread—a/ worsted warp and woollen weft, for example, or even cotton warp and woollen weft. The rubbing test would | be powerless to detect a cotton-| woolen union, for example; it is easy | to keep the wool on the surface in| the weaving and thus give an all- wool feeling and appearance An unbound edge is the place at which to detect such characteristics, One of the best cloths to buy is cheviot. Typical cheviot behavior is admirably illustrated by the clothes of Englishmen — particularly the clothes they wear for sports. Every- one knows the peculiar shapelessness achieved by English sporting clothes; that ts the cheviot behavior to a nicety. However, good cheviots wear almost forever; therefore they are a splendid buy if the clothes are tail- ored well, or if the buyer's figure is suited to ready-mades and if he does not put undue strain on the cloth by the way he wears his clothes. cs ITH the recent return to New W York of @ group of United States Army “snipers,” the | detailed lessons in trickery and shoot- ing magic, taught all allied sharp- shooters in the great war, became known, according to Rex Harrow, writing in the Popular Mechanics Magazine. Ingenious and scientific to a mi- croscopic degree, they reveal how} technical, and yet how fascinating, “sniping” became in the progress of warfare, Without a doubt the most danger- ous pursult in the war, sharpshooting was the one branch of the service that Americans clamored w:th the| greatest fervor to join, for it harked back to a traditional American supe- rlority—the use of the rifle. Not) even the generally credited statement} that a sniper's life was, on an aver- jage, but ten days stopped them, and |with the British and French they |worked out an artful system of rules that completely baffled the Germans. Toward the last of the fighting the American sharpxhooters came to be called “body snatchers,” on account of thelr success in this particular \fleld. | ‘The first rule for these daring rifle- men who stole out in “No Man's Lana” to pick off opponents, was that they should always hide “before” cover rather than behind it, By lying down between an object and the enemy a sniper was much more ef™f- cient than when lying with the pro- TRICKS OF THE SNIPERS. > tecting object between him and his prey, He was taught to blend him- self with the house, tree, wall, or trench in his rear, open to the enemy's fire, but concealed from his sight, He was never to let his head appear against the sky line; never to shoot at a German head directly in front of him but always at heads far to the right or left. This mode of Procedure prevented the Germans from discovering the angle from which the bullets were coming, When shooting through a loophole in masonry, the sniper must water the aperture thoroughly so no dust would be blown into, the air when the rifle spoke, In shooting from a house, the sniper never occupied a window, but stationed himself at the far end of the roam where he could not be seen, and sent his bullets through the window from this dis- tance, He was never permitted, in the later days, to use binoculars, but was sup- plied with a telescope, for the use of the latter meant that the gleam of only one glass lens might be caught by the enemy, thus betraying the sniper, whereas with binoculars the chances were double, With this tele- scope he studied enemy trenches and “snipers' nests” all day long, scarcely moving, 60 keen was the enemy's look- out, Snipers always worked tn pairs, one using the telescope and the other the rifle, the former whispering directions to the latter, Lying a few feet apart, so that if one was detected, the other need not necessarily be Killed also, they lay all day long in one positio thelr only relief being the exchang or racial viewpoints. For some cen- turies, black has been the accepted mourning color of Western peoples: And the sombre, gloomy color, sym- bolic of darkness in heart and soul, | Seems to us to be the only one that could possibly be appropriate for mourning attire. That white, the symbol of hope, |should be the color affected ty the Chinese in time of mourning, we in- differently relegate to the essential antithesis of the cosmos to ours. That the passing of a dear one should be attended by no sentiment but hope and joy to a people who look ‘upon life as of no portent, who know Ro ego, whose viewpoint is so thor- oughly impersonal ig not beyond our understanding, But that our own forefathers should have chosen white to express bereavement gives food for thought, It !s @ fact that prior to the year 1498 widows in England, France and Spain wore white during the mourn- \ng period. For her extended mourn- ing for her husband, Lord Darnley, Mary Queen of Scots came to be called “The White Queen.” And It was Anne of France who first went contrary to established custom by draping her coat of arms and cloth- ing herself in black on the death of her husband, Charles the 8th, Almost every color in the rainbow is somewhere recognized as the color of mourning! Yellow was used by the ancient Egyptians, from whom we have “the sere and the yellow leaf;" also by the Burmese, who took it from the color of their monastic rai- ment, And in Brittany widows still wear yellow caps! Palo brown, symbolic of withered leaves, is used by the Persians, and grayish brown, Uke the earth to which the dead return, is the mourn- ing color of the natives of Ethiopia. In Syria and Armenia, to signify as- surance that the deceased has gone to heaven, they wear pale blue! What would seem to us, upon re- flection, symbolically the most logical of all, has been adopted by the na- tives of the South Sea Isles, For to express the sorrow of bereavement and yet hope for the deceased in the life to which he has gone, they wear the combination black and white! Verily it’s all in the point of view. ——" INTERESTING FACTS. For training dental students an Iowa dentist has invented model jaws 30 mounted that they can be placéd in any position which @ patient can assume in a chair, An alloy of tin and gold has been invented for food containers that is of spygiass and rifle to lessen the cay Nt strain, said to be absolutely proof against corrosion, WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 1919 'The Husbands’ Union If the Hubbies Strike Will the Bachelors Rush In and Fitl Their Places? Only Time Some Hubs Are Sure to Be at Home Is at Breakfast, When They May Be Coming In Just in Time to Be Going Out. By Neal R. O'Hara Coprright, 1918, by The Press Publishing Co, (Tho New York Bvening World.) USBANDS don’t want @ union. Dues of their present union are heavy H enough already. Organizing wouldn't help the hubs, anyway. Wives would only laugh at their demands, same as they laugh at ‘em now. Only thing the union could get the hubbies is in wrong. What the husbands want is very simple—simple and to the point, They want an eight-hour night out and no extra explanations for overtime. Hub- dies are also against collective bargaining. Collective bargaining as bubs understand it is like this: Wife sees a bargain sale in the paper and col- Tects hub’s dough to get the bargains, Husbands don’t want any of that stuff, There'd be a bigdifference between a wives’ strikeanda husbands’ strike. If wives struck, husbands would go out and get strike breakers, But if husbands struck you wouldn't see any bachelors rushing in to take their places. Not wh bought! Hui Bachelors are striking already. That's why they’re bachelors. Patriotic songs mention “union and liberty” in the same breath, but that doesn’t mean a husband's union. Hubs are up against the same prop- osition as Patrick Henry. Hank was the guy that said, “Gimme liberty or gimme death.” Sounds like a bad case of the gimmes, but Pat was one of the leading patriots of the time when the lights went out at 8 P. M. Married man’s plight is worse than Pat's, though. Married man doesn’t get a choice between liberty or death. Usually has to wait for death before he gets liberty at all. Trouble with a husbands’ strike would be, the husbands couldn't hold out. If they can’t hold out a nickel of their pay in peace times, how are they gonna hold out in case of a strike? Husbands could stick together till doom’s day and all they'd get would be stuck. If the hubs walked out there'd be no bloodshed, but there might be tears shed. Girls would bawl as soon as the husbands called a strike, And the only thing that can stop a woman bawling is a shiny nose. And honestly, it takes even less to start ‘em than it does to stop ‘em. All men are brutes anyway, whether they strike or nox They give their wives so much to meet household expenses and nevér figure that matinee seats have gone up. Hubs expect that a wife can play brides patronize hairdressers, take in all the movie joints and still hare enough left to buy meat and groceries! Yes, yes; woman's place is in the home, and so is man's after 6 P. M. But a@ lotta guys will work all day filing cards and then want te stay up all night playing ‘em. Only time some hubs are sure to be home ig at breakfast, when they may be coming in just in time to be going out. »: Husbands ain't striking, but not because they haven't any demands to make. They've got plenty of demands, but they know they can't get ‘em, strike or no strike. They've wanted the following privileges for fifty years, and in 1969 they'll still be wanting ‘em: 1. Privitege of bringing his friends home to dinner or— 2. Privilege of staying downtown to dinner with his friends. 3. Privilege of going out nights and staying home Sundays, especially at church time. 4. Privilege of smoking. 5. Privilege of smoking in the house. over to wife. 9. Option of not going at all, if 10. Privilege of two nights out 11 Privilege of buying a@ suit o1 6. Privilege of smoking ANYWHERD in the house. 1. Privilege of taking pay out of envelope before turning it (the pay) 8. Privilege of picking the movie shows he goes to AND— he feels that way. & week, same as the servants get nce a year. 12. Privilege of buying the kind of suit he likes. 18. Privilege of hiring pretty stenographers. 1 Now those are the husbands’ Privilege of letting somebody else build the fire. Fourteen Points. They know they'll Never get ‘em, with or without reservations, but it’s nice to talk about ‘em. And the same thing goes for the husbands’ union—they'll never have it, but it’s nice to give a married man’s imagination oxercise, Parents Should Tell Stories For Children’s Education’ An Interesting Tale Is as Necessary to a Child’s Mental Development as Bread and Butter to His Physical Growth. By Fay Stevenson Copyright, 1919, by The Press Publishing Co. (The New York Bvening World.) F your child asks for a siice of ;mother has to entertain her | bread and butter you give it to She cannot play games all the tima, him, but when he asks for a/re must be ready for the quiet hour. story, do you tell him one? “Story telling is as necessary to a child's mental development as bread and butter is to his physical growth,” said Miss Sarah M. Mott, first grade teavher in the Ethical Culture School at 63d Street and Central Park West. “And please note that I said ‘story telling’ instead of reading. A great many parents have an idea that th are doing their duty by their children in @ Mterary sense if they read a story to them occasionally, But per- sonally I doubt if the child, even up to eight or nine years old, under- stands the story or gots as much out of the story and phrases which the child cannot grasp if read right along word after word. Then, the 6Mg-song tone of the voice, which the average reader acquires, rather puts htm to sleop. It is true children will sometimes listen ag long as you read to them, but I often think it is a case like the little girl, who said: ‘I like to hear her read because she wiggles her mouth so funny. “But story telling is an art,” I sug- gested, “and perhaps not every par- ent feels confident to tell a story with the same ease and grace it is told in a book.” “That is just the point I was com- ing to,” laughed Miss Mott. She is a brown-eyed, middle-aged woman with @ very sweet volce and well modulated voice. For many years she has taught the very young child and what a lovely story she could tell! How jnteresting she could make the story of the three bears, or fas- cinate one by describing Cinderella's ball gowns! “The chiid should be told a story the very moment he can sit up and jook around the room. The story of "This little pig went to market, this little pig stayed at home,’ all told out ion the fingers, is his first introduc- tion to @ story. Every parent gives the baby that story, but most of them stop right there. The next time they begin a story is when the child is four lor five years old. Parents givo plenty of time to the clothing and food of the child, but too many will not give the time to this delightful way of developing the ohfld’s mind, “Tigre comes a time when every if the parent told! it to him. Even the simplest story | contains @ great number of words | How many scoldings could be sa' if only the mother knew how to oy good story! But if the child ts under ve it must be TOLD, not read, “Why I know of one mother,” con- tinued Miss Mott, “who came to me greatly worried over the fact that her child seemed decidedly stupid. She had read thim over four hundred short stories and while he had lise tened apparently all eyes and eare he could not repeat one of them. “The little fellow was in my class and I know him to be a particulari: bright boy. I took him aside and tole him the story of ‘The Fox and the Grapes,’ puttin great stress on the moral of the story and then instead of asking him to tell it to me I told him to go ‘home and tell his father. The report came back that not a de- tail of the story had been omitted. “Once the parent adopts the story telling plan he will be surprised how very simple it all becomes, There is always a plot or moral which stands out as clearly as if marked with red ink, That part of the story must be told emphatically, After the parent has reut a story once he may even keep the book open if necessary at some points, but he should always story in is own words. any a parent has spoiled the desire to read in a very young ohild by making hin listen to @ long story which meant absolutely nothing to him, Reading a story 1s about ag in- teresting to @ small child as medicine, but hearing a story is ike going to the theatre.” In recommending stories which have a literary value and give the child @ keen sense of humor, wr osophy and imagination Miss spoke highly of ‘Mother Goose,’” “The Old Woman and the Pig,” “Th 3ingerbread Boy" and tales such as “The Lad of the North Win Bhe greatly approves of Grimm's Fairy Tales and Afsop's Fables and thinks that such stories as King Midas have a@ wonderful influence in forming the child’s character, She also spoke highly of the Swedish Fairy Tales, especially of “Lars, My Lad” end “The Stone Statue.” “A child naturally clings to a story with a climax, a moral, a decided point go it; tell him that type of story and you will make a reader of him; read him story after story and bore him by the hour with the hum drum. of your voice and he will avoid books all bis life,’ q