The evening world. Newspaper, March 6, 1919, Page 20

\HURSDAY, MARCH 6, 1919 E Leavy the Heavyweight Woman | To Be Idealized by Youth SAYS C. B. FALLS. Standart of Great Majority Is the ‘“‘Rerfect Thirty-Six”’! Young Men Iniline te-the Buxom Beauty, Older Men to the Springtim Type, Artist Falls Explains, and Then Says Erough Else to Cement Our Loy- alty to the Figue Howard Chandler scads | Criticised. SHIPPING By Zoe Beckley By Otis Peabody Swift Copyright, 1919, by the Pri Publising Co. (The New York Evening World.) ["—< ap) OW that the war HE Perfect Thirty-Six shall mt pass. That is, it shall not pass out is over many, Ay of fashion. Or cease to repent the standard of beauty in form “mystery sto the greatest possible beauty & the greatest possible number, What- rice” of the ever Howard Chander Christy may or may not have said thing. Certainly not &pand ft. Mr, Falls pled the sea wolves of the toast (in water colorl) & the Super-Perfect Thirty-Four Far be it from us, hiwever, to crush all hope in the a and defeated submarines Camouflage, as developed in this rican study fat girl. The Fair Forty-Two, yea, even te Fairy Forty-Four, hath herent’ jmuctantion It ie lareele Place in the scheme of things, her fleld of Ksclnation. It lies in the eyes | result of the work of William An of youth. Mackay, the York artist and “Young men,” points out Mr. Falls, | ——~~— nterior decorator, who for five years ooking up from his busy work table| With enecrous mouth fs generous! before the experimented with “incline to the buxom beauty. Older| And Eien And healthier, Char-|tho idea of protective coloration for men to the springtime type. It's per- | acter a lot to do with beauty,/American battleships. And the suc- fectly simple because it all comes} begging your pardon for the plati-|cess of his plan is shown by the fact | down te personal reaction. tude that of the 749 American vessels cam- | “To illustrate: I went to a bur-| “That ts why tho flapper type is|ouflaged according to the designs of leaque show the other night. A gal-|a abhorme§t to most ar The|the United States Shipping Board, | axy of* ponderous persons in tights | spindly shkak, the ingrow hest, the | supplicd by the navy, only seven were there, ‘They were mature, to say | stomach and kn arust forward—It | were sunk. the least. Their friskings were noi] is hideously characteriess and supine.| It was in the blg studlo workshop subtle. They were industrious rather | And these » eho little people known |of the Mackay School of Camouflage than artistic. But they pleased their | as ‘ch ns’ Ad, aren't they? Why jat No, 345 st 38d Street that th audience, do they fix up like that? Those lumps | camouflage idea was develc i, Here “This audience consisted largely of | of hair over the ears, and the crude, |sixty men worked day and night dis- longshoremen, truckmen and riggers, | flat colors of their faces? They're guising the American ships. butchers’ clerks. All young men. All| rather amusing) and 1 suppose some Along the walls of the big studio uncritical. Generally speaking, it is} people find them human. But they|hang marine background paintings, the young men, under thirty-five, who | never seem quite hum do they? owing the various color tints of support the burlesque shows. Your|! guess it's partly r es, the oceans. There are the long gray- older men—your bankers, lawyers,| “Clothes with the right lines, hair|green wave of the North Atlantic, business and professional fellows—gu | dressed ply, and an animated,|and the violet fog off the Channel. to the musical comedies, in which| healthy face can make almost any |'There is the deep warm blue of the anything heftier than 125 is ruled out,| woman pretty, unless she is fat or|Guir am, and the muddy brown and the Perfect Thirty-Six is the Ab- solute Utmost. Thirty-six, therefore, marks a limit which becomes signifi- cant to men as well as to the sex) has a big nose, Little can be done with those calamitic “Small eyes, although not accord: | were te ing to the Hoyle of standard beauty, |a of the backgrounds Gironde delta, the ¢ Against these mouflage effects Over in a corner stands real periscope, manned by Skipper beautiful. At the age of thirty-six) are not tatal. If they are set wide! Mackay, And on tables, chairs, racks the average man admires the woman | apart, have transparency and are not|and shelves are dozens of nine and ef the thirty-six line. As his years| white-lashed, the smallness of the eye |ien inch wooden models of merchant in the inches of his feminine! will not destroy the facial -propor-| ships, awaiting their coat of camou- | ideal Secrease. The man of fifty-| tions. | flage. eight, who feels himself entering the} “The test of beauty is so thoroughly | When a vessel was to be camou- sutumn years, turns instinctively to}a matter of personal reactions that} flagea a wooden model was first the girl who represents springtime | when we talk of it we always end by | made of th D exact y de and youth, The twenty-eight bas boy of eighteen to sti enough of the} saying what I like or When I say I don't what you lik Uke black hair, i ‘Then differ nt types of camou | flage were applied ar ted through ehild in him to seek the maternal /for instance, I mean that it gives mo|the periscon nat the differen of woman.” no personal thrill. I don't react to it.|marine backgrounds, It was the old After solemnly promising not to ap- lt | I like color, Red hair for me ev sport of playing boats, Mamous artists pty the age test too severely, we per- time. But ! Freckles mustn't nd architects, students in the school, quaded Mr. Falls to admit that he|with it, They distress me, just as ed their toys across the manceu- Mkes them thin. “The maidenly fig-| gold theth do, though I daresay they boards, There we over a ure,” is bow he expreses it. Nothing) are ‘dressy,’ as the colored jady said. | hundred of these little ships, and they longitudinally exceeding the Perfect) “The sum-up of beauty is slender-|formed a navy that would delight a nd naturalness, Fat is abnor ‘Thirty-Six need apply at the hospit- | ness rt, ‘Tuen when a sata war can at last} about the necessityef complete proportion, or the taste eeai an er ere of the tndividual beng the guide, he shall not shake our most interests national loyalty to ‘he girl whose lines have been an ing 18 the story | inspiration to the naker of the tailored suit and the| of camoufinge, | magazine cover ever since there were such thi the weird If Charles B. Fall, painter, illustrator, Liberty Le painting of! posterist and generale qualified expert on beauty, is || aaa = - | seagoing — ship. right, we may have to pare down our standard if any. Tee t paces able-looking door of his studio at No.| mal after one is beyond the age of,|isfactory design, one well fitted to 2 East 234 Street. However ajar it) say, eightecu months, The hipless,/the particular ves had been de- may wtand, dt ts not meant to encour- | bustles re is freakish. So is the|cided upon the plans were sent to age any one who cannot wear what | behe: meauring 62 inches where |the shipyard or dry dock, where the| they call in Sth Street “the chicken | she should be 36! And freakishness|actua) camouflage would be applied sizes.” i is ugliness,” “Yes, this looks like a deserted Except that he acknowledges a sort) Let us thon, in ‘he light of Mr. |battle-feld to me," 4 Mr, Mackay ef wild worship of red hair, Mr. Falls'a| Falls's excellent reasoning, leave the |at the studio yesterday, “It was wife stands to him for all that is ex-| heavyweight woman to be tdealized|here that the first work of camou- eellent in woman, Mrs. Falls wears a| by Youth, and the Perfect Thirty-Six | flage was developed. In all, 749 ves- thirty-six. She is slim as a reed,|to maintain, as she has always done, |sels were camouflaged, and sixty with fair hair, lily skin and eyes of eray. “after all,” saya Artist Falls, “beauty is a matter of sex appeal. A man {s attracted to the woman he ‘Wants to love. The average male, un- leas he is @ colossus, cannot hold in his arms either artistically or com- fortably a woman as large and as the beauty standard for Majority, the Great men, artists, archite made this shop ts and designers, thelr headquarters, HOW CAMOUFLAGE FOOLS THE SUB. fer the muscular as he is. ’ “Men are usually protective. Here again the slender figure appeals where the robust Amazon repels him. ‘The very young man, not yet having fought bis battles with the world, has but a vague idea of battles and is not appalled at them. His pro tective instinct 1s undeveloped. The Gigantic rather attracts him, whether it is represented by a task or by a woman. The Venus de Milo would al- lure him. Yet I couldn't conceive of loving her! * * © Decidedly, beauty is very largely a question of the ago of the beholder. Mr. is Y|r too human a being and still too young a one—to regard his opinions as conclusive, He read- ily concedes that there are types of feminine loveliness that are accepted as being lovely by persons of all ages | And experiences. Through the ages | the gir} of golden hair, large eyes, ema!) mouth, pearly teeth, swan neck, skin of rose and a form that suggests dawns and springtimes, has been | galled beautiful. Oh, her nose—we | forgot the nose—small, straight nose, ef course. “Tet personally,’ says he, “I pre- rge-mouthed woman Of ‘Moderate largeness, that is, It is in ) better proportion, and proportion is oe cardinal jaw, Also, a woman The False Bow Camouflage. Broad Black Bands carried across bow give illusion of vessel's being on @ course ten degrees to left of her true course, How a a New York Artist, With Toy Ships, ‘ae THURSDAY, MARCH 6G, 1919 How to Keep Young All -Your Life ——_—_—_+ Dodging Middle Age Worked Out Camouflage to Foil U Boats Second of a Series of Three Interviews With Dr. Eugene IN WILLIAM ANDREW MACKAY’S STUDIO 60 MEN U: TION WORKED NIGHT AND DAY ON DESIGNS OF THE UNIT. BOARD DIMINUTIVE TO PROVE MODELS LIKE WHICH WERE MOST EFFECTIVE, USING THOSE Lyman Fisk of the Life Extension Institute. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Copyright, 1919, by the Pree Publishing Co, (The New York Evening World.) | TABLE OF AVERAGE HEIGHTS AND WEIGHTS—MEN, BELOW./ NDER HIS DIREC D STATES | IN| THE PICTURE Shen Eh EM Oh BM EN CM Sh Sh BM th on en eh en en en Cin 1p 2 im Bim Ain Sim Gin Tin Bin Pin 10in iin Gin Lim Zin Sin 4in Om ee 128 130 183 185 188 142 146 150 155 160 165 170 176 182 189 199 201 SOF winiiai 15k 199 195 138 141 145 149 153 158 163 168 174 180 186 199 200 208 B19 YPE. OF BLUARED PINK, BLUE ANO GREEN 193 153 197 140-143 LAT 151 155 160 165 170 176 182 188 105 BHR ns OBLONGS, MELTS INTO FOOS AND MIRAE 14 196 198 14k 144 162 156 161 168 ATL 157 183 190. tut nt SECURING LOW VISIBILITY. AN AMERICAN 135 157 e148 145 133 158 168 173 178 8A vk 19k OS ID ID DEVELOPMENT, on the men of other nations. Of recent years there has been a decrease in the expectancy of life for men of forty and ove due to an increase in the degenerative diseascs such as affections of the heart, kidneys and biood ves sels, And yet, says Dr. Eugene Lyman Fisk, director of hygiene of the Life Extension Institute, No, 26 West 45th Street, the American can be young, strong and vigorous in the era usually known as “middle life.” “I want to start a slogan all over the country ‘Fit to fight at Afty’!” Dr. Fisk announced yesterday, “Man grows old simply because he is injured. In the complex life of man there comes a stage when the injuries, strains and poisons to which hjs body cells are subjected slightly overcome their resisting power, and then there is a gradual failure, until the decrepitude of old age is reached. Human deterioration is not a ques tion of time but of microbes. It is only the Dessimfat who ac ccepts the phy- of middle life as ; and inevitable and due to|Makes strenuous exercise a menace Men AGE and its ailments bear more har on Americans than 4 Yamane DAZZLE SYSTEM ADOPTED = % NIGHER VISIBILITY. BUT brs FINGING DEVICES. BY BRITISH. Gives CONFUSES RANGE ical deterioration |necessa a ” Wary a eee passage of time rather than to|to his circulation. This is not te ot ¥ decry exercise for the middle-aged | ut how can a man keep his vellx|stout man; quite the contrary. He! young ev the calendar says | should start in quietly with very mild he ie maida 1 asked Dr. F setting-up exercises and walk-' “The first preventive of middle age|ing in the open, always avoiding J» pis the perlodic health examination--| pushing his exertions to the point of; i taken at least as often as once a yeur. breathlessness. A depressed, ex« Cour TGN C aly saad Ch eg AS At the Life Extension Institute we ess | pevatea feeling after exercise is @ COURSM DISTANCE AND IDENTITY oF VESSEL. these examinations to many thousunds of persgns. Before making any r change in his diet, before embar warning that it is carried too far,! tcal|Golf has proved an admirable exer« King |cise for many mature men. "And how on a course of strenuous exercise, the about. a proper diet™ man of thirty-five and upward who|asked. "Hasn't that a great deal to ei wants to keep young and“ft should|do with keeping young in spite of #he 1 Juha mane find out just what his condition is and | calendar?” es just what changes in his daily regime} “Yes, indeed,” Dr. Fisk. “And from thir tis as dans he can stand fter thirty-five ma men must! serous to be overweight as it is to avoid violent athletic exercise, This 0€ underweight before reaching the avoidance should not be necessary if|'Irtieth birthday, Personally, I n has always lived # hygienic lite,|tink it a good plan for a man In 1 Middle life to keep himself a few pounds less than the average for Rimi age and height, if he wishes to rex tain the sense of youth. He must watch the scales.” And then Dr, Fisk gave me the standard table of weights” a mé but in most instances he has not lived. In view of the physical condl- tion of the average middle-aged man he is an exceedingly hazardous life in- surance risk If he plunges into gym- work or heavy physical train- nastic under direction of the United States Shipping Board, working over de- signs, testing colors, peering through the perise t the wooden models, and shing off to try out} ne Mew effect on the vesscis that, then In a few days, would be depending upon our skill in the art of disguise | to save them from the U boats. But let's go back to the beginning. | Caesar invented camoufis that sailed north to conquer | the red-haired Britons were all paint- | led green, and the vere erdered | to green suits to make the le In Macheth we find the lsoldiers carrying trees to conce |themselves on that day when Birnam | Wood came to Dunsinane, But mod- ern camouflage, as developed by the| the product of American| tirlemes wear visible. war, is | study. even years ago, when I was at Newport, I read a volume by Prot. Ogden N. Rood of Columbia Uni- versity entitled “Modern Chromatics.” He pointed out that the gray of na- ture—the sky, rocks and trees—is a combination of red, green and violet. It then occurred to me that by blend- ing these colors I might evolve a bat- tleship gray that would make our dreadnoughts less visible, Com- mander J, O, Fisher, U, 8, N., had been working along similar lines at the Brooklyn Navy Yard, Together we experimented in 1915 on American submarines at the Brooklyn Navy | Yard. We painted them in stripes jand bars, and there evolved the first |principles on which modern camou- flage is based. “When the United States entered the war I placed the results of these lexperiments before the Navy Depart- ment. I privately undertook to ca |mouflage American merchant vessels, and also opened the Mackay School, where fifteen camoufeurs |trained for the navy, Then I w Jappointed District Camoufteur by the hipping Board, and the big Job be- gan, Plans were supplied by the |Shipping Board, and new types of| loamoufiage were worked out at their Washington headquarters, were | “There was nothing haphazard about the art avery ragged line, jevery crazy angle, jarring color, had a meaning. First you must under ing in order to get his weight down, for middle-aged men, published here« | ¢ Wilkinson, | Museum, 2 et ee ee \stand tha lof camouflage. There is the camon- flage which attempts to make a boat less visible, and thereby permits it to escape the enemy, and that camou flage which, although the boat show up plainly, deceives the enemy the course, speed and identity ¢ craft, Tho most successful mettiod Wee @ combination of both forme, there are really two kinds| yak “In England Commande where, with’ the pe 4 fen Tate: dons | WhED R..N,, had been working on tho ise] and tho deep sea background, they] Such ae man cannot wisely WiSPl) “wn iaateaged tat man or fat and had developed the dazzle system, | will alte © public an { how a sports, Ono night I saw a maa no Woman, while keeping reasonably This consisted of © black and] wartime y looked en, And roerer young dance for an hour in/setive, should first endeavor to get white figures, It dazz! iy an, He : ; tee one of the restaurants. Every mipute the weight down by regulation of Lo} aoatopaaee ga j ‘I about. ships waile| 7 expected he might drop dead before | “let,” continued the doctor. “As t¥e place his shot. There trampin he woods with Pae| me, me t comes down the exercise , many subs, and th Just ica, Mackay eve ho has , . should be increased. We must re« pias British boats, but they coulda i: oe ¢ th ei ane “A middle-aged stout man Is al-) te: that in a fat iht the ba hit them, Before the camouflage was|of every youngster in Jersey most certainly in a condition that), | oo. 4 be surrounded by’ fatty od put on the ¢ boats oe ‘ tissue, The quality of the heart weck, Afterward the average wa St L Hi Ch ad S |muscle is generally none too ten bontaja week. yles ave ange mice Veal jouiesiinera slgi place Aaecen ere 6 States we combined the | Th ss Pi t WwW T ke heavy burden on that circulation ts. isl Iden th lowe siaonity, These Pictures Were LaKeN wrrrcina procedure wane) many sccidke) ta. the : as | $ the heart muscle under moders seo the subs would shoot up their; You'd Hardly Recognize Them as Being Photographs of Mrs. |**° bayonet panos to rages the periscope and get @ look at the ship. William K. Vanderbilt Jr. and Mrs. Hermann Oelrichs. lest hrcaten te Galude, beth They based their mathematical cal y | culations “ cepa they saw in that oe eee Mie Broernat oe moment's glance. We painted a fal . at bow Se eratce iin’ pide ofthe ahipy |Peertaet Peg pes ale Reape which, by foreshortening, made the liinen/atat< dibe secult cues pipe vessel scom farther away than It was troying the ship's silhouette by which Moat Biisncad taeniarelover welanit they ascertained identity. We painted Ser chs il Gat Re lnwinc ac hae on the false bow lines which made her They are fat, plump, thick-set, heavy. appear to be going in another direc- And this surplus flesh is not merely a ] tion, joke or a discomfort. It is a danger ] From time to time other more spec- to health and longevity.” tacular methods of camouflage were ‘Then 1 asked Dr. Fisk for a “youtht-! adopted, The Von Steuben came into tying” menu for the middic-aged | port one day with a destroyer painted business man who is near his correct on her side, OtheP vessels painted weight and desires not to grow old 8S, C, boats on thelr sides, some| and fat. painted superimposed bows on the'r| “For breakfast,” advised the doctor, sterns 90 you couldn't tell which end| “the business man may have a dish was which, Of course the cubist artist | of cereal with sugar and cream, rolls hailed camouflage as the logical de-| and a cup of coffee. An egg is pers 5 velopment of beauty and art, and missible, if tts protein value is con« said that from now on all ships and] sidered in making up the rest of the houses and automobiles ought to b day's menu, but not really necessary) 4 decorated that way. But camou Avoid for breakfast such dishes a# flage was purely utilitarian—we for-| |ham and eggs, beefsteak, cakes ang got the artistic part. We didn’t care] | syrup. how the ship looked If it could dodgo | For lunch the business man may eet the ava than |soup ‘and salad, with @ fairly heavy “And they certainly did. It was » dessert—a piece of mince ple for éxe successful that we took to camouflas- | ample, Make it a rule to take your Ing S. C. boats, seaplanes and even! rich desserts with your light meaL houses and barracks on land w Tho principal meal, dinner, may pe there was danger of air raids—as at aten at night, provided it ig not Porto Corsino, Italy, and Dunkirque ken too late. That is the only 5 The Germans got the idea and camvou meal of the day when the business flawed their submarine nd camou man needs or should eat meat Ava lage got inte vaudeville and th one course Is-sufficient even then, |tionary, Well, it's all over now MRS HERMAN ORRICHS | ims a Je Sas Sine Shing protein ships are coming up the bay in thelr PARS a twouldn’t be polite to say how many—these quaint pho- | verted tuste € protein foodstare peace time paint, and all the checker. | lographs were taken of two of the best known women in New | taken into body than it needs |board ships and the Welch York's Four Hundr They were the beautiful Fair sisters, daugh- Here \9 gn una abrelp oy Upen the decorations are a thing t r of Senator Vair of California, They are Mrs, Hermann Oelrichs and} jj\er and kidness that’ the aye RL rhe point is that tt did th Mr am K, Vanderbilt who was fifteen when she posed for her! show are increasingly dangerava te Of the 149 boats that we picture men in middie life, Many men for 4 atric’ Each woman inherited millions and married more millions. Each has| years have eaten two or three times faged in the ascond 4 ree loader in the social circles of New York, Newpert and Long Island, | 8 much meat as their systems reaily ven wero bunk.” The New York home of Mrs. Oelrichs is at No. 1 East 87th Street, Mrs, | required.” Li To-day Mr. Mackay 1s pack “he Se ERENT daa AMPH UTA SRAG tf you want to make them th q toy ships of the 33d Street stud'c The pictures were found in a suitcase in a New York pawnshop, Fortica—keep thin and kam is aod ig seading them ta the Brookiya where they Rad reposed for © long MmaK ev ibe L Fate Se TaN sad sem