The evening world. Newspaper, January 27, 1919, Page 14

ee ee ee ' Ko MONDAY, JANUARY 27, 1919 ~ War Has Made Over Hips Are Going DOWN Chests Are Going UP and the Debutante Slouch Has Gone OUT By Zoe Beckley prt, 1919, ty The Prem Publishing Co, (The New York Krening Wor | WO wer casualties have not yet been recorded. They are the death ‘T of the debutante slouch and the near demise of the automobile slump. floors, fetched and carried as nurses’ assistants and conductoretted the Mehting mov known as New York's travelling public, the physical slouch and slump have passed into oblivion. The feminine fig- ure has chang It has thinned and strengthenod. By actual measurements tak in hundreds of cases during the past three years by ® woman whose business it 1s to clothe the female form divine, {t is found that hips are going down, chests are going up, epigastriums are ex- panding, thoraxes are thickening, thighs are thinnin arms and—but perhaps Mrs. Goodwin herself had better tell it to you; she’s an expert.. Ladies and gentlemen, Mrs. Emma E. Goodman, whose wora for more than twenty-five years has contributed to the health, comfort wert weeKey ' tand beauty of her sex through the application of science and art to the piaking of their clothes “war,” says she, “has done for|jow the breastbone, which Emma) ‘Women in months wh physicians, | Goodwin insists must be given free Jecturers and well-intentioned maiden] play and room to expand In breath-) ing. Having always felt amazed at the punt of physical torture woman as capable of enduring in the name @unts have not been able to do in frundreds of years. Women have een scolded, warned, threatened and mis-shaping am he American Woman Since women have driven ambulances, scrubbed canteen) TA | | ‘How New York Looks toan Aviator Flying 1,000 Feet Above the City ! ~ |Heart of Manhattan and \ ay JANUARY 27, ) ‘Australia’s Labor Expert Studies U. S. Labor Conditions HE ADVISES Broader Co-operative Plan Between Labor and Capital As Result of Investigations Here G. S. Beeby Will Recommend for Australia Vesting of All Indus- trial Power in Federal Government, Enactment of Unified Laws Regulating Industrial Require- ments and a National Council of Industry Rep- MONDAY, 1919 Bedloe’s Island Photo- } graphed From an Air- plane a Day or So Ago Shows How Aerial Pho-| tography Can Give Even| | the Blase New Yorker a New “Viewpoint.” By Clyde B. West Coprrigit, 1919, hy The Prowe Pubtiaing Co, (The New York Evening World.) SMALL airplane skimmed slowly A —for an airplane—above the| spires and skyscrapers of New rk a day or so ago, At times it| med about to nip the edges off tall buildings: at other moments it ap-) peared to be looking for a nice open| window into which to sail. Little groups about the streets and on watched the mysterious jatranger of the clouds. ‘They were| puzzled bec sel didn't go| | zip jong airplanes usually the like precision ‘cular plane that evoked al comment. There was no loo; ing, or spiraling, or circling, or nose- ia eeeeete (9445924 SILT he 0) WAADATA VND ATEN EL NEE aT ® ABRAAT ALI NcraN Neat LIL roofs the ve ing zip. It of this pa busin diving. Just a n moving, | {not very far be p danger line | | for aviators who would avoid a clash with w York's skyline of cupolas and cornice ome amateur student being taken for his first lesson over the tall build- ings of the cit arded by one observ Wrong “Maybe the new- HOW THE HEAR OF NEW vor — MADISON SQUsRES Looks TROm AN, AIRPLANT 10000 FEET IN THE Ain he's picking up some of ashioned wireless telephone even laughed at for messages on the wing,” guessed an- ee their poor bodies and playing hob|of fashion, and the apparent slight) other onlooker. vith their health at the behest of] harm {ts practices entailed, I asked! Wrong, again! contributed to the results achiev ‘aadion. rs, Goodwin If the debutante slouch! «1 gee two men in that airship,’ | to be the most pretentious volur “They jammed themselves into cor-| of a few years back could really harm | ojneyiated a third, “and one appears the sort ever prepared, It is to ine pots waich all but killed them. They’ a girl for life. te pict combat, | res of actual to be leaning over the edge. Maybe ruined their pretty necks with high, Positively yes," she brisked. “IN| ney going to drop a bomb on us. | scenes of praparat for battle, work tight collars. They collected myriads from three to six months the cartilaxe} Horrors! | rer thas monlilaation straining of genns in thelr trailing skirts at the back of the neck is thickened] fue this is the closed season tor | camps and photographs of courees in Whey spring-halted thelr legs With and the top sections of vertebrae] dropping bombs on cities, except in | | fying instruction high heels pushed outward, The younger andj parts of Russia, The making of these pictures ha “Comes the war, ang the splendid slimmer the girl, the greater nd | “Aw, dey’s takin’ picters,” exe na d to the response by women its demands more permanent can the curvature) ned « Fapkinotin 2 | ull3 P f gor hard work and incessant service. of the spine become, In older women| “Right: a ware nacleet n the country, a What has happened? Has it over-| it doesn’t matter so much—Oh, have | photographs of New York-—the very whom hold ranks in the army and taxed their nerves or hurt their|scen debutantes of fifty doing tho} ieart of it, | |navy, Some of them have used their podjes? Just the opposite, It has) ‘slouch'—because their bones and! you can't make a moving picture | jcameras to foster the instruction of given them new physiques, It has|:nuscles are tougher. Nab w mfeatcalis-gram ibe caie ene aerial gunners Hroadened the diaphragm on an! “The debutante slouch did Mri you get close to that city and travel | For gun tography two ‘average of two to three inches, melted harm than any other fad of the sort MAliog \Gosvig ton: knl| planes ed. One is] the fat from hips and buttocks as if We still see it to some extent. A girl], Salih Hht Mh abssiilely ‘gaw| | known 8 operated by by ma veplaced adipose with|came to me recently who actually But) the aniarnhine haa made BEDLIOES NN Jone man and pho On| muscle on arms and legs, flattened) was wearing her brassiere reversed—!eyeat strides in the last few month Ope eee ‘ y, ‘3 i ik erate grapher. His machine a the ugly “old woman's hump" at the/ the flat part across the bust, the) ne work is fraught with peril aa $ ¢ po a gyey Jewitt o ang his camera, which is ack of the neck and symmetrized the! curved part fitted over her pushed- ‘ um when tt comes to bringing out AVROLANE seaHonary 1A) (he forwar 1 part of the} chest and bust lines. out shoulder blades! It will take mol cieariy and. definitely the limes at plane, Is aimed by th of “You would be astonished and in-| months to get her into normal shape. (Huiidings, parks and streeta so chat me airplane , 4 at the women who come to|Good, hard, steady war work would] ,), Ve eauaile recsan\cas AA - as ere ; ——"_| ‘To get a snapsiot of a successta ling out ruefully their burst) do it better than any gymnasium in Natty readily recognized in the | 5: oadway and Fifth Avenue fand that | of scout work and has proved Aue! atigck on anotier aircraft this plane corset, saying: ‘Look what's become) the world!" Usually to: aosompllah’: this reauit BESNG..0) = ARPSSTREAIS INE Pah ane, 20a WEE F must be manoeuvred so as to swoop of my perfect I can't wear it] Next to the debutante slouch for | ¢y . uit treet zone, the pilot brought the| tn both lines a difficulty that has not) yy and suddeniy turn its nose up al- Sany more. I t get a larger si sheer “bedivvlement of the ‘form di- {there must be a special time-exposure | photographer within about 1,000 feet] been overcome ts that, at great helghts | most ly under the enemy plar ; of 1 tell them, Not a larger! vine,” says Mrs, Goodwin, is chronis {emer® Such photographs are made, | of the pavements of Manhattan, While] all surfaces appear smooth, The ob-| Where the exact angle is reached, the Bo: difterent shape, ‘The ab- | autcmobiling, Not the gort where you |"? % Tul ak siatesoe Of ace 500 the plane was moving about sevent rver can’t tell a hill from a hole in| gunner “fires hia camera and, if dominal part of the body has re-|zip round in your own Uttle roadster, [f° 000 feet above the earth, to be five miles an hour the camera man) the ground untess he gets close enough | negative shows a “bull's eye” on the “duced. ‘rhe chest and back muscles|driving the thing yourself, doing ali[. on? cena nger from alr) pressed his button for about one six-| to yet a sharp angle, in which event] other plane he receives a score fc al have grown strong. The middle por-|the chores and putting on tires whe currents, and require a time exposure | hundredth of a second exposure almost anything looks like a hill. Demanaianee andl el eeiad acesra | Stion, the region of the thorax, has|the blowouta come, Mut the “lolling' (Cf One three-hundredths of a seeond. | much less time than usual because of pork the War and Navy Depart-| ingly, ‘The second plane 1s a tandem| Bourst its bond, that's all. You hav the sitting fatly in a tufted tog. |The human mind cannot think in that | tl ximity to the objects by mente have taken a keen interest fn | afnis and car Pane eee SJearned to breathe! You'll be better|neau, inert and piled with tars. [*PACe Of time, but by @ system of/ photographed and the relative speed} verial photography. ‘The former has | device in the rear, ‘This camera 1s| and pretticr for it all your lite |That's the thing that adds pounds |/cave® I" the camera that overate by | of the alrpl \¢ been conducting moving | movable and there are a pilot and a Verily, slimness and shapeliness are! and pounds—and pounds and pounds |*2® Pressins of a button the time Js) Objects at sea and on land picture work in) France and t} photographer, or gunner, in this “the reward of the woman who dedi-| and pounds regulated. are photographed with less diMculty| country, the results of which it Is uo+| plane. In this case, aise, the camera gated herself, body and soul, to war) “Happity, though, thin type of] 18 the case of one photograph just) and peril Jerstood, are to be used in connection | represents a machine gun and the work, The renette, Mrs, Good-|isisure woman,” says Mrs. Goodwin, | Md? of the heart of Manhattan, show-| = The war has done much to develop} with a military history of war, | operator's hits are recorded as in th win has accomplished with | «ig passing, War work has anved he;|!8 clearly the Metropolitan Tower,| photography from airplanes, It has| It is said this record of the world-|case of the ye alee da Vout realizing it results for whieh |. spite of herself, She may not like| tte Flatron Building, Madison Square, | been found of great value in the line|wide conflict and tho elements that (graded a mahiadament eprmer adil ree wads Of Us 11) work, But ‘it's being done,’ and| ~~ emeccmaen - ——-- Band's gold at health studios and re-| rather than bi lonesome she di |her neighbors do, ducing parlors, not to mention gyms baths, In New York War Babies and Yurkish many cases) “Or the grehtest importance te Sghe has grown actually taller from]. oon everywhere no ; ; eh “ os TE , y , ATHERY Feaching and bending und the | Monon C\r Mnure nowalays WHO WILL HAVE TO BE INTRODUCED TO THEIR FATHERS Satraight, even swaybacked, carriage| in mresent conditions are in| 7 eee eae Se SIS ts aati “that comes from toting trays of fried| (oon. on them. ‘Th are still n | eggs, coffee and custard plc ‘ 1 many | ” n who make carica The nurse's helper or any girl who|) |) Neuen » a are) nar digted ang ; Iatly {2d Who do not know that work an: ‘and carried in the course of her daily , ervice spell jc But the re| ywork will find that her entire body| (uO eug ae , are] Shas a new strength and firmness. | “"Wa; taught them to work.| $Those whose—ah—pether lines were} They will never enjoy idleness again. | Sbetter cuited to the shrouding in-| Nor will they eve n Sfuenco of the pantaleite are now| fashions, Good sense has been forced Stleased with slender curves that would | upon women as a whole, A few have Scuuse F. Ziegfeld to murmur, “Put| always refused Yo be hampered and Sor in the first row, Morris.” And the | Made ridiculous by the decrees of t Q “pe A cating a. {commercially interested, But not u whoulders. | 196 OS) cil these four war years when womer fahe cruc! artis “rocks at low | cniet ught was for rvice hat tide,” are crea yunded models for|they really emancipated themselves} = 5 is gece TERS : J Mis eculpt too from the handicaps of custom, Phy TARIJORIE SAME VARI DOROTHY M SCHAEFER, JAMES ht DPLARMAN Motor corps girls who have yanked on re AA ARDEEE, NOMI Aue | Little Marjorie Sametzki, born Nov Lilian Theiler was born June & | July 17, 1918, is the first date in Just two weeks after Corpl, Mich ie the steering wheel twelve hours aday| everyday rules of body welfare: (1) |! i Waiting at her home, No, 123) 1918, two months after ldy salled history of Dorothy M urman of Company K, 9th Yor the past eighteen months, pulled|The balanced weight of the body in| Hast 110th Street, New York City, for | for France, He is Priv hacfer, who now lives with her |gineers, left for Mrance James 3 BYpced leve >ped on brakes and | hormally correct position; (2) the nor-| tne he of her daddy, Private | Theiler, Company 1, so6th untry, |mother at No, 243 Avenue B, New | Spearman came to be a member of pepeed levers: stopr tohere fag {mal curve of the spine, enabling the] \itreg ch ded Gaaiat Gams iri oo fe eg bisa Hoagie Ie ape ed WMO home at No, 627 Brook Avenu Yent a hand with the stretchers, flnd| cay to stay in prope silibrium; cay | Sifter ‘asua + | 7th Division, and was wou ey ork City wddy Ald he *| Bronx. ‘The date, to be exact, was What their Sam Browne belts can be} full breathing by furnis ecessary|pany, A. BF Daddy sailed for |7, 1918. No letter has come from him | but last April he led for France, | April 15, 1918. Knowing Daddy was faken in at least two holes further | width for thoracic expansion (clothing| France Nov. 1, 1918, Mother keeps |to the little home at No, 451 West 32d | where he is addressed Sergt, Frank A. |a soldier litte James sat up very “than when they started. Yes, sir, the —nshes Raye crept from the waisiiine wp to. the chest and across that A- tivn). \We can't say hooray for war, WA\CAN say hooray for the war figur out the "HIP, ae fvenishing support but not constric- But | is Marjorie always prinked up and look. | Street for two and a half months, | Schaefer, Battery F, 304th Field Arc, for ah lila Ai ‘e A Be shouia {Since he was heard from in a Pavis |lery, A. F. Daddy und Dorothy | Daddy would probably see the picture are ‘= = 1) 1... | hospital, but mother is hoping he will | have heard a lot about each other and |long berore he would see James and e,] meet her unexpectedly she'll always | walk in any day now and give them |will be able to compare notes whea|he wanted to make Daddy proud of be ready for the introduction, both pleasant surprise, they meet, bin. | straight to have his picture taken resentative of Both Labor and Employers. His Further Recommendations He Outlines in the Following Interview—Some of Them Are Already Operating in New York. By Frederick Lawrence Copyright, 1919, by The Press Wublishing Co, (The New York Ey ng World 8. BEEBY, Ministry of Labor to New South Wales and Australia’s leading authority on industrial questions, has been in the United . States for three months investigating industrial labor problems in this country, as they may be beneficially applied to conditions in Australia, He sailed for England on Saturday, but will return to the United States within a month or so to complete hs investigations before returning to thet antipodes. Before his departure he framed and made public his investigation. In an interview Mr. Beeby said “I find both wages and the cost of living in America are twice as high as they are in Australia. The revolutionary section of the Labor Party in | America is confined chiefly to unorganized labor “Employers in your country have complained bitterly to me upon sev- eral occasi on the slowing down policy of their employees. It is prob able that serious difficul will arise when attempt will be made to reduc the war time wages, a partial report on fhere is a strong movement in America for co-operation between em- ployees and employers along the line proposed by the Whitely commission in England.” The Whitely commission's plan for the solution of labor difficulties is similar to the John D. Rockefeller jr. system in this country. It fs the most feasibie working plan and has ‘been successfully tried not only in Australia and Great Britain but also in the Colorado Fuel and Iron Com. pany’s plant in Colorado and by the Standard Oil Company of New Jersey. ‘The backbone of the Whitely system is its potency to bring the worker and the employer face to face in more complete understanding. ‘here are indications that Federal control of public utilities in the 1 States, and therefore of a countless number of workers, will con- " continued Mr, Beeby his, it appears to me, will be especially evident in tne administration of railroads, telegraphs and the supply of foodstuffs, . “Tam convinced that the food queston, which has become s only be adequately handled here as well as in Australia effort of producer, consumer and the Government. I find toward profit-sharing in American business ' Un tinu rious, ean the co-operative a strong tendency As a result of practical experience in Australia and my investigations in the United States, I favor vesting all indust Government on the understanding that existing over and used in Stablishment of a uniform sy favor this plan for Australia, but conditions in th not admit of all industrial power b “In Australia the Federal F unified laws on regulation of factor. al power in the Federal itions be takea I mean that 1 ed States mi ng vested in the National Government, rliament, in my opinion, should enact and shop, industrial safety, workmen's compensation and accident and social insurance, the method of fixing the asic living wage, control of child labor, apprenticeship, vocational training, prescribing of the standard working day with exeeptions, if any, and all other matters which directly affect the relationship between worker and employer. ts ate “In order to encourage the settlement of industrial disputes by confer. id negotiation instead of litigation, with its endless legal tangle, the nt arbitration courts and wage boards of Australia should be super- seded by a national council of industry representative of both labor and employers, state or county councils operating under the direction of the national body, industrial councils for separate industries or establishments, shop and mine committees to deal with technieal matters peculiar to differ- ent establishments. “The administration of the whole system should be invested in the na- tional council, which may exercise these powe ence pres “Create and appoint independent Chairmen to industrial councils; “Invoke the aid of any state council of industry or any industrial council or shop committee in the settlement of any industrial dispute or in the exercise of any other of its powers; “Compel parties to industrial disput s either before or after strike or lockout to meet in conference and state the matter in dispute, the claim {made and the rejoinder thereto; “Make an award binding on the parties wherever any industrial coun to arrive at an agreement as to the minimum wages ple to its industry; union registry and generally exercise contro) over cil fa of employment applic ‘Establish a trade nd conditions { unionism; “Establish and maintain labor bureaus and exchanges, and deal gener- ally wth problems of international employment; “Investigate and report on any matter referred to it by the Government | and advise Parliament as to alterations in or additions to industrial laws; “Maintain a Bureau of Labor Statistics and Information; ssist in and encourage the establishment of friendly relationship be- tween employers and workmen and disseminate information as to improved methods as to production and trade expansion.” af Mr. Beeby’s recommendations are already State Industrial Commission has o industrial §: York. The | operating in New administration a tastaee @Y compensation and acci-, dent {Insurance oncillation and adjustment of labor disputes, lobor bureaus and employment, advising the Legislature on beneficial laws, maintenance of a Bureau of Labor Statisties | ‘The most important item in Mr. Beeby’s prog itrol over t and shop regulation child labor, ainme which 1s not now practised in New York is the shop and factory employer-employee councils, lrnis very subject will be considered by committees of the New York State ! chamber of Commerce and the New York State Federation of Labor in ynnection with the John D. Rockefeller jr, plan of maintaining industria! | Jabor peace Petrovna, Enemy of Prussia EMARKAB in many wa vera Empress 1 was Dilzat iy Em- mother was the ri t ho had been t of a R press of Russia and daughter Jyiioon, and became the ri of Peter the Great, She died. 157| several ‘mer before Peter the Great years ago, after a reign of twenty) 7 ried her, Her daughter, Blizabeth / c 0 her | Petrovna, when sho ruled Russia, years. While history knows Fetroyna, when she ruled chiefly for her immorality, she left} 4 > mortified by one of left! the jests of Frederick the Great that benind her as nonumenis to her bet: | she made war on tne witty Prussian ter nature the University of Moscow | King, and until her death Russia wag and the Academy of Fine Arts in| one of his most dangerous enemies, 2