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ite \ OY , \ \\\ Uy \ \ \ 1918 M2 TUESDAY, OCTOBER 22, 1918: ; To Make Two Gowns Grow ‘ (ah TA) YOu ‘Was Only Woman Dentist : ~ Where One Grew Before, - In French Medical Corps; / Make Both at Home”) Rules the Well Dressed Woman Should Observe | Aided|1,000U.S. Soldiers AS LAID DOWN BY MARY JANE RHOE IN THE ACCOMPANYING rp Bophte Nevin of Brockley ‘Also M, d to Find Th 7 a . , > Ww , r. Sophie Nevin of Brooklyn Also Managed to Fin ime i Can ye a su We ce ~ . la fae ARTIC LE BASS HER ids, see: ao THE Wan WA RDROBE ; for the Dental Necessities of Hundreds of Refugees and J e - Make It,” Which Also Tells How to Test Materi-) | we EAL Tie i F | Seale Unth Her Ourm Health Broke Down Under the Soreta . als an lect Styles Best Suited to a Woman’s <A js \ ; TRY TO ATTAIN LTHOUGH it is contrary to army custom, Miss Sophie Nevin, a + Individual Type. A # i young Brooklyn dentist, did such remarkabje work in the Refugee THES PLUMP WOMAR Hospital within sight and sound of some of the heaviest fighting « By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Coprtaht, 1918, by The Preas Publishing Co, (The New York Kvening World), SHOULD WEAR ;jof the war in France that she became the only woman dentist in the H’: to Hooverize your clothes, how to make two gowns grow where STRIPES ‘TO Give |’: | Medical Corps of the French Armyi HER HEIGHT Miss Nevin, proud owner of the professtonal title “Doctor,” has just one grew before by making both at home, is the story of genuine returned to her home at No, 264 75th Street, Bay Ridge, after seven months interest to every woman with a $10 taste and a $5 pocketbook) ‘lin France, where she catered to the needs of 11,000 American soldiers and which {s told by Mary Jane Rhos in her new and prac- tical book, “The Dress You Wear and How to Make It.” hundreds of refugees. eee ERNE CMe Tae 4 The fire of pride snapped in her It really is a handbook for the war wardrobe, dark eyes yesterday she recounted while not labelled as such. And it ds needed, for al- her experiences among the fighting Americans at the front. ‘Then she though Geraldine Farrar logically aigues that women, roerhelnremet rh shes gr H even now, ought to buy all the pretty clothes they can fate wiloh thade hes leave SOP GORE : afford, the fact remains that many women find theit eH undone qn account of poor heatth. Dr. ; clothes money «0 restricted that they wonder if they Nevin talked with her throat heavily can afford anything pretty. Then, too, with perpen | bandaged, having undergone an op- { a anteed dyes and unknown mixtures of cotton and wool eration before leaving Frauce ten| 4 flooding the market, the task of picking ont cloth | 24 | days ago. | “worth making up” for one’s frock or suit becomes especially precarious, ti {| Dr, Nevin went abroad last April ‘Yet the clothes she wears are at@———————__——____——__ Sanity re pili BaD gli od ant to the average . ae : . ow days later wor } new cook books which tell her how tO] gencteg properly the Sant gion 18 cto ~\ a out the services of a dentist. she save eggs and butter and sugar and] designing of a beautiful suit or fro. k 'fead Miss Rhoe's wise advice about] consists in making sure of correct! Ss had done such good work among the refugees that the authorities were ro- B= : F eS Soe to save both her money and her Linea. As Miss Rhoe points out in ie luctant to “lend” her to her own er boo ‘ 066. po looks by buying sensibly and) phe tines of a gown ¥ forces, can grace] fhaking cleverly the costumes sho! fulness and urtistic, becoming effect ‘vould not otherwise afford | from the top of the collar to the bo* -| In ti a which will wear] tom of the hem. I am pleased to not getting & cress that there aro few who think that If fell and look well the first step, a8) they can only keop the waist, ace every. woman knows, is to be suro| tain number of inches and quote it, pat the fabric is unadulterated—pura | Otten. no matter how much fat bulges m ove! op and bettor C (pik or pure wool. To protect hereelf,| corset, they are still andes’ at Rhoe says, a woman should first) girlish fake a sample of the goods which she| “This type of woman wants hor © of me 5 at} atesses “all fitted tight, especially oe and give it “the acid test” at) goroxs the bust and around the kine, believing @he makes herself loo! “To test the silk,” explains the au- | :mall, whee abe ds only emphasizing of You Wear and] the fact that she is stout, She look ithor’ of “The Dress Mane ae 80-lf ahe had ontgromm her wore How to Make | 0 sa drawing attention to what she wishes <6 per cent. solution of caustic potasl| to conceal for fifteen minutes, If the silk is “Loose, comfortable sitting, graceful : ’ Once inside the American lines sho} plied her protession four days a week | for four moths. Finally the regular army dentist returned to the com- mand in July. Her long work at the front was beginning to tell on the |frafl little dentist. She became ili jafter serving some time as nurse | when the epidemic of Spanish influ- | |enz& was at its height suffered an affliction of the tarene Ws | which necessitated an operation and DR Verte | subsequently she was invalided home, “I have lots of good things to say SOPHIE. + s\.) a] nurses at the front,” Dr. NEVIN Nevin also commented. “Most of |tham work from 7 to 7—at least | those are their hours. But {f one | were to check 4 their actual hours he would find thht thought was only @ hospital orderty to hurry to a distant ward for some these women for-| thing. di get the clock on their rounds of mercy, mately” anid. Was auite: noreioe ipure the fabric will be practically de- Tne conceal, white tightness empha-| 5 Witdyed, leaving but a small residue tin! for the stout 8 loosely as for the ex- * i a working inie into. th siderately and was quite horrified pape ere cottor ly sma © ‘ piers baad e nigit| later when 1 learned that ne was au ol h a tkat “4 - oe oor A wall yyy 1 fitting corset REOUCE THE HEIGHT SWE THINITS. ‘gues | ‘i tou valet vere . BA | later wien 4 learneg Thad! tet aap all important and. she Sh Hed “O THIN WOMAN SHE #8 "GIRLISH™ shortage o: rses at the front. This “Pure woollens are adulter, th nt and should be the first OF THE iN Ee is OULON an Dr. Nevin said that she catered to even | conaideratic - ACCENTUATE The PAT A first-<¢ doubles and triples the work upon the a o an average of eighteen cases a de mare than silk, because they are in] will refuso to make a pown if heel Gh. MING, HER: WIDTH Because, HER HER ONES frail shoulders of those in the field.” | while on active duty, and that she hid cater demand and also because they | Customer Is not properly ‘corseted, by WAIST AS SUIMNESS SHOULD Tt tg sometimes Amusing to note the| treated as many as thirty-six patient Bere eerapd:and & «| cause she would send out a piece « PULLED IN $ | Emosra make theaieolvea echt reenact eek i eye, Suuay, went an} are quite easy to imitate, Many a yard! Wort that would tf vas Wey an ‘ ‘ < DRESS officers make themselves useful around| duty at 8.30 A. M., and would remaie! ; of eloth sold as ‘pure wool’ conta'ns| ment.” F establish - i Loosecy the hospitals while convalescing, ac-| until the commanding officer would f cloth Pp | ment ding to Dr. Nevin } from 80 to 60 per cent. cotton, Blank. | After shrinking the goods, If they are . ‘ Peet: le | cording to Dr. i Hterall order me to stop and rest.” ets sold us ‘half wool’ have frequently | (4 process for which Miss Rhoe — “The spirit among them is so good| The fongest day put in by Dr. Nevin Ween found to contain only 10 per dre # careful directions), the amateur yi a ; ve - : a: 5 a they jcannot do enough to help, the| aa a nurse waa rom 7” A. M. on nd ab lat caae } i eo ‘ol , she explained. “One Vednesda oO P. M. ured he spot of nue woot immer tn] Aten utiatncyctaeet yea] Ae Aid and Comfort to U. S. Navy “Indispensable? ? |i 2sti's se ssi th Senay °F Nutini j ee oa _ = = aan a — | 1 jes of so-called wool in oil of | the expert's first caution is, “Neve: re . ° ° rr re ree } : about two minutes, ‘Thts| TUAh.” Whe points her moral’ with thy Mrs. Vincent Astor, Mrs. Pleasants Pennington and Miss Letitia McKim So Vigijant 5 : : wil ‘angoad el ieagg Dut the wool | ing ‘establishment -wiicra uo costume and Efficient if Y. M. C. A, Canteen Work at Base Port in France That Rear Ad- ouon icture ctresses wil not be a! ed. Was nimde for Je han a hundie: Py aay) ’ > ¥ "8 fhhor cont is to moisten a cam-|doldra nn ® Bundied miral Wilson Says He Doesn’t Know What He’d Do Without Them ple with 80 per cent. nitric acid, This], "Bhe was He 0 (6. child PARIS, Oct. 1.’ thelr particular navy uniforms. e ou eEMSeElves: wl tarn the wool yellow, but the cot- | make 1 ful tailored gowns 1 WO New York young women - - = — Attar one very cessful dance , 4 , f tom will. retain its oolor, Use the] suits. she had po tig looked in na and. A itiinaniniincelh nave fa s ; ne tenia aides Tift anita: | VIRGINIA PEA RSON ame tests fot linens «s you do for| Windows and watched the tailors work binges Rae - biiclig thd atte gi HEN | consider it, I entered) 4 woollens. If the mmple i# genuino| 29d. how fast their hands flew, and of given such aid and comfort from Walla Walla, Wash.: W the “movies” twice—once by'| linet wit! not be affected by oll of | Sauiee he TOE ahs must dy tho|te the United States Navy at a base “Say, Bill, do you know who that the back door, and once by was you Were slinging around in that |the front. The first time 1 took up Vitelsl, But any cotton that is in it] saw how nervously she port in France that Rear Admiral was trying to will be destroyed.” hurry and realized what mistake sie}Wilson says he doesn't know what last dance? |acting before the camera as a di- For the woman who wants a suc-| S44. TAT ue OMe Qocete and! he would do without them. ‘They are “No, I don't,” answered Bill | version to pass the time away during cessful ‘costume a becoming color is our work can be done, not} Mrs. Vincent Astor and Mrs. Pleas: “Well, I'll tell you then, you poor |a summer's vacation, on condition " @e important a feature as a pure we can dh ants Pennington, a daughter of Wal old tub; that was Mrs, Vincent Astor | that no publication should be made of “fabric. “Tall, slender figures: may ter of your work, sure Ofliep Hamrosch, and Miss Letitia M hhatia-who itewaa.? | the fact, and the second time I went wear plaids, figured or plain mate ISR. DEAGHEG. & D a f the gurment, whether] Kim, part of the divi rials,” advises Mary Jane Rhe pensive or eheap, ix in| gion of the Y, MC. A n work designs that tend to short the fig- | its construction Td won, as numerous flounces, ruf- |. Into the details of this eonstruction | crs @t the Navy Y.M.C. A. hut. Their fles, overskirts, &c., while short, stout | Mit. Tne hoe enters Pith aims | tireless efforts ‘are only @ part: of the figures should wear stripes, small description of every sort of atitch used | BTeat service rendered our tighter checks and plain materials made in| in the making of women's clothes in| by the seven organizations merged in designs to bring out the full height. lait Rit aa Ph pw olthe United War Work campaign 't te algo important to select colors | rections for cutting and fitting, for|the ¥. M.C. A, Y. W. C. A, National becomming to the individual, regardless | putting together the various elusive; Catholle War Council, K. of ( Wa ‘Woll,” declared BI, “I knew she |/% Under far different circumstan s and the widest publicity My first entry into the picture field occurred one suminer some years ago. | us’ be somebody regular, ‘cause she dances most as good as my little Washington pippin back some.” I had finished a season on the road ‘These popular dances Segim at 6 | and was vacationing in Brooklyn. The P. M. and end at 8.30, Jack bome|vitagraph Company wae having a we would hardly be im dqicing (rim | hard time finding players, for no one at that hour of twilight, Aat most of |on the legitimate stage would have| ithese boys and girls are wnder mili- anything to do with the movies at) of dhe prevailing etyie. portions of a garment, that even the n, x Sanuing ic We pm oo rn by | that time. T'was very young, and had| fIa combining colors. nature never| amateur with the needle wgll under. Comp Community Service wen Ory GIGOED BG. Gaye Sa Tears 1B had some stage experience, 80 they gskes a mistake. The usual pleasing| stand and bless the author Welfare Board, American Library 9.30, and a 6 o'caok danee Is better + combinations tat the French produ:e are @ careful study of nature's art in c@mbining colors. A ‘walk through Mane press You Wear and How to| Association and Salvation Army ham's Sona, immed by G. P. Put-} To aasure real Americanism at the _ [hut the girls installed a soda foun: tain, which proved a source of great U. &: Flyers and Patrol Craft Joy to the sailors. ‘Then the young : ‘s - +» | Women started pienic parties. Mr Drive U Boats From “Barred Zone |rennington had charse of them, an “ ‘ boys do say she Is a past maste os bd played again on the rican naval aviation stations) “that our operatio ‘ound Great | Pe ‘ ss ! een 2 in 08 tmuse the French coast from Spain| Britain should be better known thes | in the art Ps 4 the streets of a seaport town filled | 1m Sonn anancar omer’ | ular | wen wi h Willlam Faversham ia “The to the Channel have created a fitty- | °!* Only bava’h aa ee eeE re Three times a week she takes sixty | STE Ress, MISSLIERENIUNCTON {th dives of the lowest order. me that he had a part which bh to play a wonderful part in thei: fale “forbidden zone” for subma-|but have inore stations than in the) S@lore (she calls tnem “Her Gods") pereracen Lert aeesue de eid re ACEI y "Poot The eye. F rhe of} picture Stain,” and I accepted. food i 1 bread and chocolate an Ps a . eee i amphi 4 ‘00! h as This t ark he be V4 jrimes around France whole of England, On the west coast|cut ena picnic She keeps on taking i and ch Beant 4. Naval hut and the Y. M.C. A. Navy the yam | This pic marked the bdeginain iiaaimnvdanne arial: sent ya ae maori 7 was uvise lose by. romised to go with| Dane the AGmIIN appreve ¢f euch Co Re ee theatrical! | frivolity in times of war? You bet manager qbeuld find out edout it, ter believe he does, Ho believes tn ang worked the entire summer, The) VIRGINIA PEARSOW mAeiNiaim ABE a) MODE 110 ENO NIB | caren cnedeg acstere eo. baate Stat | chale dur dere aera een fare rtieera boys normal entertainment—anything | 3 stuart Blackton and Mr, Smith,| and myself achieving the biggest su |that is going to keep his men with ‘now the producing heads, sometimes | eps Of our lives on the stage. 'olean American women and out of filled in scenes themselves n official, and he couldn't read English eit an i t » 4 up. I instantly left the picture gu of the screen career of another fel (fhe “northern bombing squadron,” | ?! erence see are @ series of bases| sixty men until she has cleaned up ss t nd he didn't dare ho ‘ , , : ue irls first, last and always. went with him. We played low worker of mine, known then as 0 nich our whips operate in go. xt comes the question of passes. Once they get to the beach the | _ Theodosta od The: a. operating along the Belgian coast, | ing out and bringing back merchant. |® Warship, then she gors to another i it Theodosia lman, now Theda Bar: ane edd) ve 8 *e 4 boy } vaseball, have M4 4 is picture we ad por on contributed largely to keeping the| men vessel just to show there ts no favor. |{™t !f 1 be: Mrg. Pennington eke bein ay Panta: hav The Fla s of th e PX | | 1 ed N ations more Tratde Borninay tence boat bases! “The outstanding feature ts avia-|itiam in the scheme, And the ques.| "es Tight up and bothers the Ad: | beach races, go crabbing, fishing, eat / g ; Ogee and Zeebrugge | > vinees in one kingdom, | *2hted several women to appear jn « Hed up. These stations, plus altion, All the way from Spain around or sixty men on land | !!P@l In spite of nis orders not to do | smoke, and go back happy and tired | . " tue Italian provinces in one kingdom.) scene with me to form a contrast. I Wad amount of pew naval work, in-|t¢ Channel wo. have estabtished | 108 of food for sixty men on land) oi. tion charters @ trolley car! “DoJ trust those boys to get «| By T. L. Sanborn he arms of Savoy, a gold and crimson! was playing the part of @ young gir about twenty-eight of these stations|{s not an easy one, but, hook or| “sil | ITALY ywh above a blue-bo! “ i rather small, in the picture, Aman: olaging the northern mine barrage,| so spaced that all the comet in ade-| crook, she gets tt. She goes to all the | "M4 she and her sixty “Gobs” pile|to the ship on time?” Mrs. Penning: AL isplaying a white cross on rls Mr, Powell discovere lotking the last gates of the U boats,| quately covered by seaplanes and ayer aaereanta aa / thy find oA rv ito it with there food tucked under | ton ed. “Not muchie, 1 escor 'TALY bears in the green of her na- field. w ere 2 age 4 on The | man, whom he selec ted ‘ painted out by Assistant Secre- | dirigibles 8 dle why art them right down to the dock and see tional fla ninder of the days|99 ot form the present nat LAB lana PR reas ol t of the Navy Roosevelt as| Our flyers have driven the sub-|™mands, begs -or pleads for brea linge aha han tannthoe tine dew laca - he tin the tend whens all St Italy, The erown does not appear ginning of Mi: ara on the semples of Americam navy achieve-| marines fifty miles from shore, and) They manage to buy some chocolate pac? ® thle Lime, Jor | évery one of them gab‘ip the tender, | he fiag flown by Italy's merchant , ments abroad. this barred zone is expected soon to MUaeasatas and aameltices this | forgot her’ pass, and when hk They are just like a lot of children, | — ip Bane s aly's " i lett the soree n ago ens : Mr, Roonevelt emphasized that|be 100 miles. American bluejacketa| *B°, ©'8! ‘ae men began to pile out of the trolley |and I'm not going to have any of them | 205 that] 1p 1914, the Teutonic hordes t Vor Se American efforts are not confined |bytit most of the stations, If they|let it go at that. Oovasionally they In 1805 tter Woman While T war the French frontier,| playing it in Chicago Mr, Willtam ly, horrified at this act of wanton|Fox, who was then. starting bis merely to Convoying across the ocean | didn't have enough material for bar. 1 French officer demanded to see her! playing hookey while they are under | buy fresh fish and cook it on the J y y and in the foreign danger zone, nor|racks, they built houses from air.| 4 pepers, She smiled, put down her| my charge master state- builder set up a ggression, mptly notified France rn as a lay : dan . Y ny Sev each kd Al aggression, promptly career as a photoplay producer / je‘ chaser and destroyer patrol and|craft packing boxes, Twe bundrea| beach where they ack of bread, dived down into the! Not very far from the Y. M. @. A | kingdom in tho that she need have no fear of Italian] wired mea splendid. offer’ to, ples 1p, guard duty. Instead our|to three hundred men are im each SEL AAT HART UTaT : siced a |W : fae a chiee “% orthern part of /uttack, Strongly in sympathy with| the va in a screen Version of “A Werk has included the creation of| station and these are loeated often | in italy there is a flying school and OF ne 6? @nd produced @| Navy but is a gymnasium, and there VTALY eoenern Pa ofl the Allies, Italy remained neutral long| Fool ‘There Was." | wanted to do it rous stations ond building of}on uninhabited islands or tm @bscure|on the eastern side of the Adriatic | Personal letwer from a friend in| the girls have dances for the Navy the Italian Pen=\onough to thoroughly prepare her|but Mr, Erlanger advised me not ¢o, pew units, witfl a big oil pipe| fishing village: | we are helping in mine ‘barrage oper- | Paris, sbook/it in the face o e 28 »ek, . These ce: » | insula and gaye it a flag consisting of ny and navy for action, and then,|saying he wanted to st i Scotland, The nortiern| A bombing practice schoo! hasbeen | *i a" help ng ie pune’ erage, phe Paris, sb it in the fa f the boys once a week, . These dances are & rmy @ f a saying nted ar me next mine barrage was particularly point-| established, and there is a big as. | woot Frenchman and passed on with her!run by Miss Letitia McKim of Phila. | thr erpendicular bars of green,|on May 24, 1915, entered States is helping the Portuguese pro vie Pe t ut. It is knowa-the idea orig-|sembly and repair base with # per. |tece t} ul . p boys white and ba en next the staff, valiant champion ¢ ed. This was an against barbarism Theodosia Goodman, “changed her on. In searching for some one to play the part Mn, Fox. re-discovered ee that base delphia. And such dances! For thx mt with Mr, Roosevelt more than | sonnel of more than 6,000 mer ba hh then white 5 i m Mr. Roosevelt revealed that fifteen| “I wasn't going to have my bovs| partners she itwites all the nurses {adaption of French tricolor, a| most difficult terrain in Europe, name to Theda Bara and made the ago, The United States has a large na-|enemy submarines was the tax pe sreen bar substituted for the|Italian armies have accomplished] picture land =now harbors several}val unit at Gibraltar working with| strength this suinmer oper - blue of the French flag because green , and now that American ater T returned to New York and bases from which mine | the Britivh and soon to be joined by|the neck of the bottle around t nd was Napoleon's favorite color, ps are fighting with them the old|the company with which | had started operate and which house a/Brazilians. This unit operates up| British Isles, But he advi et the: by. \¥ ren.” * " le 7 When gallant Victor Wmmanuel of| friendship of tbe two nations is being| some years before made me a flatter tye the Auantic and in the Mediterra-|Germany has many more U bovis |S. 10° Pats Cah Dae stupid gen- all. other available American. sist | 5 Won ete macdinigs arava, thelcemented ie honde cf outta) resetet tee otter Ce Behe 8 terion of oittamen’ Batuval,” sald Mrjtoosevelt,'nean to Marveilles, Italy and Greece. now driven far off shore, jf armeBe thougat it was something ingluding the ¥, M,C, & sirle in| \ustrians out of Italy and united Bland affection __ J which I accepted, sent back,” she said, “not if a little) in the hospitals who are not on duty of my American bluff was going to! some of the Signal Corps girls