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\ \\Y AW \\ 5 \ \ 3 “ \\ Lae \ N ANY PAY a Le AUGUST 3 \ \ SATURDAY, AUGUST 3, 1918 | What Is Your Color? Mature Woman Must Use Care " In Selecting the Right Tones - To Suit Her Complexion ~ Sunshades and Pretty Girls to Match THE PARASOL IS A MORE IMPORTANT AID TO BEAUTY THIS YEAR THAN EVER BEFORE— HERE ARE A FEW HINTS WORTH STUDYING. By Richard Roberts. Copyright, 1998, by The Prem Publishing Co, (The New York Evening World.) Pig’s Head Hennessey Being an Episode in the Life of a Man Who Never Yellow, Green and Brown Are Fatal for the Matron of Sallow Skin, According to Mary Brooks Picken, ' Seemed, to Fit—And What Happened When the | / Dress Expert—And if She Wears Black It Should Big Day Came. Be Relieved by a Touch of White or Color— OW Aloysius J. Hennessey of Fourteen Engine came to have the un- Black or White Good for Fair-Skinned Woman! Taal. ear at leas rage ee ee ay er ss and has no relevancy to the consequences except as io \ of Advancing Age. set down,: Dut, as ever was with man’s little inhumanities to man, the | By Marguerite Mooers Mars hall gareless word which doomed old Hennessey of Fourteen Engine to be Copyright, 1918, by The Press Publishing Co, (The New York Brening World.) fa known as Pig’s Head to every smoke eater south of Great Jones Street HE woman past her earliest youth but still desiring to look as we’ dropped @ nut tn the gear of his destin | as possible recetves too little conalderation at the hands of the TLE AiG G6 UA dived: Rabsdlaa ia aia Be expert techniclans of dress. } be of dae ass ~ od hard fists, “AI the styles and all the clothes ere made for young girls,” @ woman Young Terrence Mulvaney, tho recent recruit from the School of Instrue ' of middle age lamented recently when I went with her on @ shopping tion, who first passed the fighting alias, Hennessey hammered all over the \ expedition. Often, too, dressmakers recommend to the floor of the engine house. He was brought up on the carpet of the Bat- mature woman #ome brilliant “fashionatfe” shade talion Chief for that. When a monkey wrench d: ropped through which adorns a clear-skinned young girl but which Sete ahd Waleed bn'tcah Yona the tread Gt SM HID . oe pitilessly accentuates the lines and the sallowness in Sere ceumee ceeeee cecee care of Mickey Spillane, another of the face of a woman of fifty. With deftly chosen colors, Hennessey’s tormentors, the deep slumber Aloysius J. s{mulated in his cot skilfully developed in frock or suit, this woman appears above would not stand the acid test. He was transferre. (> Twelve not only attractive but years younger than her record Engine, the “busiest house” below Fourteenth Stfeet. tn the apratege F igsgehaeY RUA VATED tad ' ‘They still had the horses at No. ———— “pes One of the most impor and valuable features dd ing roofs. The entire building was | of Mary Brooks Picken’s book, “The Secrets of Distino- PPrnihed then—Aloystus J, Hennessey| sive apunder 60 that the Wall ; tive Dress,” is the clear and detailed treatment of abominated the new-fangled auto-en-| Hulged and the warning cry af the 4 color achemes ‘suitable for the mature woman. The author perceives |sines driven by mere chauffeurs tn-| deputy sent groups of glistening blade clearly that the colors worn by a woman are determined partly by her age, | stead of by brawny men who knew bert Fetreating doggedly. ag well as by her complexion, her eyes and her hair. how to ewing threo big grays around | ,."{ umcin's fot some men trapped \ She has good advice for two types | — | @ corner on two wheels. Hennessey, }ing ain dnd son ae aaliawe Wik ghould be avoided by persone with \ apason roar, from the caldron, putes Wemnes aes to Miss| sort to warm colors and tones,” | ones more that the department had | bubble of flames spewing out the Picken's defi n, has gray or white| ‘Turning to Miss Picken’s table of} not gone to pot, what with its civil| DUrst street door and lower tier of ) hain, Hes eyes are brown, blue or| Colors, the sallow matare woman will service examinations, its achoot of | Vimtows and swallowed hard Vaialy 4 nay, Her complexion is, frankly, | find that she is warned against wear- fnatrustion and tte boy Gremen who| strateey ts fed ¢ way of rence Sa E std. witlion t’6olok ing yellow, green and brown in any| platen bbray paioty das: shade, sallow mature woman,” writes Her complexion, of course, wore amoke helmots in a black-cellar| a hand was laid on his elbow, 1 thor of “Secrets of Distinctive| must not be made to look yellower, instead of boring right in and “eat- Piro Jerked his head about. ‘There b than it naturally | ing it” @ man in watchman gray, het~ é D “is by far the most difficult Beads or greener H Seni h given a hint as to the kind of | @%% And with the fire streaking the type of woman to dress, For this} is! | \c a hint as to the af Bf a should be exer-| Even young girls with sallow skins |e Qremaen Senden wen Ma bad ons aa eas bar's eae 5 cleed i lon of every color | 100k unattractive in unrelieved black, | |tered the department thirty years! “Chief—I know a way!” the former given. for this type in the table, Any| and it 1s most unbecoming to the sal- back, when the Tammany dietyict| driver of Engine Fourteen 1 wlor selected should be of the gray,|low mature woman, If she wears tt loader fixed things “right” for axpi-| “This shack was afire ten years ago= ’ at all she should use white, ora touch | ‘ranta and no ailly Got-your-I's exam: | connecting door trom the esllee of SF of bright color. Of the shades of) inations had to be taken. He had! ¢@ next door—iron sheathed and easily ty give character or develop| White, she should choose cream or lived to obs; Meh We cocsonhe' Gane Th. A os cee Bae ; design should be used intelligently | milk, There is only one mee hiad outrageous failure, according to the| but give me a lantern, Chief dear, aad and very sparingly. Large splashes |—awhich looks well on her. \ Hennessey conservatinm; to witness| an ax an’ let me lead the wag.” § of color should never be used near, Two chades of blue sult her well— tie eripguasting of the hoses by sacet< | Wanake dics iid woth tae See | the face, because this will not have midnight and navy—but she should | ing gas engines; to hear of fancy | shoulders of the man who had beg } the desired ‘effect of brightening up avold any blue with a touch of pur-| drills for recruits up at Fire Head. | disgraced. the face, as is usually supposed, but ple She can wear omly dull tones of auatier, “ATCA Wieakic’ iis te iy dabaaeseeyy tan GU ei aad te lowness of the purple, with white at the neck and Everybody: bad) eolmeie eal Hew. | yout? complex en white should be some lilac. A white colar or frill ualey & HIMES Cbd Bd]. Dard doh. SadW th of the soft milk, cream, or pink tint, about the throat should soften the him Pig's Head. where only the feeble light of « Iam rather than a pure or blue white dull wine-red which she may select Grouches are dangerous fungus|tern glowed red in seeping smote q weigh |e a tard and brillieat as: \5) tare trocm: Wee erage: ieee volt jgrowths on chbaractera like Hoen-| Aloysius J. Hennessey showered jue Dopseween CY posal iMod Cle aes | | nessey's. They strike Inward and cur-| mighty blows on the lock of an iron — The color choice of the fair skinned | ie ; ‘ ‘ aa dle whatever of love of life and re-|sheathed door, A companion fu & Ol Gansuelo; Noted for: marin eeee Sin eee ee DIVIDE of roses aud prety flowers, two of the most charming) lace ribbon of fowary from her bat o bag as a connecting link in & siency ot apire the victim poaweases, [helmet worked @ crowbar between Sho Is gs that the summer sun brings forth are sunshades and dainty | matched up “set.” The girl at the left ts holding a parasol Di Biven ot fwelte Racine. whece ha had laprite door aad jaaw. hal { Her Welfare Work, Now |hair, blue, brown or gray eyes and a, women, These last two always bloom together, lit in numerous places, with hand buttonholing to finish them, so that Dick and Harry ‘and Buster—threo | grudgingly fell inward and a hot fare N + . | fair complexion with color in Hips and/ Women this year are using their parasols as an easy and delightful| ribbon may be run in and out Ribbon bows tip each spoke. The ribbon most companionable horses—to talk|nace.blast smote through the ape Seeks Political Office. {cneexs. Not infrequentiy a woman! oi. of achieving a harmonious ensemble for thelr attire, A parasol| may be changed to sult the color of the frock worn with ft to and to awing on a tight rein at an| ture; the ruby glow of flame was very ABLED announcemofit trom Lon. ty or hapa Retest oo pe Ape tared PNY be made a part of a “set,” matched up with a bag, or a sash, or a| Ribbon is again uged on the parasol at the right, being made into | alarm, Hennessey brooded deep upon near, ‘Through the door plunged Hiea= | (© don that the Duchess of Marl.| haa lived & healhtle Oo wieone her|bat, or it may match one’s frock either In material, color or trimming. | short loops that form a novel fringe from the lace band. the wrongs done him, Ho'd sit out-| nossey, y borough, fermerty Consuelo) Sesh air Bae & Brgows ‘Every effort spent in completing such a harmony of dress is certain to The centre figure chooses the velvet rubbon which trims the frock |"iJ¢ the chain, tilted back in his chair) Acid splattered up from his stamp- ; : ect of #itlish roses and unmuddied skin, It 3 p y ? ; 1 ; aerpre tone egien-lelbedined ME arsed tytn Bay rt Ce } Vendes im, of course, much less of @ problem | result in an air of refined elegance. to guard its edge and cuff {ts top, while a beautiful colored bead orna- |i") wih his bushy eyebrows Meaty | ing fect, s1 to j Now Tom Loa for this woman to dress #0 as to ap- ‘There are various ways of ornamenting a plain parasol that any|ment copied from the design in the frock 1s placed on the gathered he Its tire ESWh oP ain Cutty pias tees Ee pol none. Noe of burn } sented tne ri, Pear effective than for her sallow-|woman can follow herself, using some of her frock material or bits of chiffon foundation. ing chemicals seared Bie nostra Sa and he'd have a word for no man hours on end, Then the nickname “Ple’s Head"! waded into the little corner of hell stooping low and with one hand grop- ing along a line of hose, Hennessey date for the Lon- | Skinned sister. ne scanty Coun.| She is most charming in white, She don County | the looks well in black, if it is relieved | LATER EXTRA '] i} cil from OUR MOTTO: THE WEATHER: trailed Hennessey from his old post to |: iare, Jorth Southwark With a collar, vest or yoke of white or ; af id ams gine Twelve, and the first time that| , ae soa very palo ecru, Tho onty color whien| | “A Pluribus Squattum”’ The man he brought out on his ‘taunt was passed to him Hennessey Tanglefooty, With ef 4 1 4 sizes the fact that |she has to avoid altogether is red. | or, SS) i \ Wi g WV Sl j ; resented it in @ manner 6o violent shane pe Teens nT } Teen une. of} When she ¥.*ars green she should “United We Stand” a Ul WV C — Il | ] } Showers of Transfers there waa but one course open that |i wyure followed, When he bad the leading wel-| select dark sha 4, with the little re- sic YY discipline in the depagtment might be! 1.1) Mulvaney down at the feet of fare and social lieving touch of white about the face. | _ — a eee ees EU preserved. Smoky din, tinteesss Gaubk aee workers in Eng-|This saving grace of white collar or & y Jim, y wig The man who had been thirty years @ fireman walked dazedly out of Fire dquarters one day to face a world) ay and cheerless ax the dim fields | Tr 1 77 land, She is one| yoke makes it pomsible for the fair THUR (BUGS) BAEK a tone) ~ 6 first of English social workers skinned mature woman to wear 6 pe a political office. gray and lighter shades, wy She may wear dull, hellotrope or crumpled into & sprawling heap be- side him, Deputy Chief Smoky Jim and Edited by Al CANAL STREET. ——— HOW TO ESCAPE FROM THE SUBWAY. E ~~ Jelegation from Engine 14 marched The Duchess became interested in as 5 of purgatory, He was dismissed ta yori <> ie tis Ba a seevable and Welfare >work shortly | grape and the darkest shade of purple, are operating our new zig-zag subway routes, the only razz 2a Mevuaa, MPRME Eteae ppg tial ; $9.19 H is wae A ple and welfa ? 4, sius J. Hennessey lay, hed | After sho was married and went to|palest buf yellow, palest wild rove. berry in the ointment being that we are operating without | NON-comBararcr’s thing, Hennessey bitterly told himselt. ae anes ee at one truew: \ Ingla live in 18%, One of her| When ghoosing @ blue suit or frook : i 4 = MAP OF e@ asd It was two in the morning when the |'% VANGAKES 4 \ ngland to live ether, Riding in our underground gondolas 1s Hke spending CNTRAL BUBNAY Jient eye peering out between the \ first projects was the Soldiers’ and|sho should take elther dull old blue, ptf lel vlarm went in from somewhere down | . { Sailors’ Families’ QAssociation, of|midnight blue or one of the pastel the week-end in the toe of an old boot. Outside of a black eye, or a norte, on the fringe of the financial district. |#2u#*- Then the Deputy made 2 } which she was President in 1902, 6 tints pearl derby, very little scenery is lamped In the old subway, But the Hickory ano HAZEL Twelve Eng was fret on tne|AWkw Ard apse sad Ry | r ound 4mo! “pI at. | patient's hand r later becal ested in the Na-| Golden n ig to be avoided. The) now cut system is ex of the Seven Blunders of the world. The lower round, with Smoky Jim, Deputy Rat- | Pt! im ining tional Physi Soclety,| most desirable shades of brown for a ton Chief, there in his little red fty- | With newness. h gave 78 of the] aie oman are neal of chestnut. level at Canal Street is a goulash of the catacombs and Niagara Falla, r. Smoky Jim saw at a glance there| ‘The single gray eye looked quickly clubs of London a vaca. | thls 5 } : 1 ; : b : : eee ey Poeun “"| sme part of the table for the fair-} with a filigree work of corridors designed by one of the best spaghettl was wicked work ahead and sent in| {roi watch to Deputy and Past to tion 18 cour ea . watch aga: rhe swath R Her pet Welfare project of that time, | skinned mature woman,” Migs Picken| architects in the works. The waterfalls in the mezzanine floor at second, A four-story toft building | again. The swathed masamay ‘ qq however, Was work among the fami-| osoiqing, “contains information for i teat roetull en : ie hock-a-block with chemicals was |vcked up the watch and@brought the if . oni s ie Be oat Anat the prematurely gray-haired woman: Canal Street fs all the more wonderful because there ain't any excuse | leaking clouds of yellow smoke from |°ase close to his single serviceable stone Of ne er eepacit | that ia the woman Whose hair ie the! for it, The only thing Jacking is @ rainbow, and we are trying to buy TRANSFER. aes almane leye. He read there the Latin tte 7 bs ABE Ores h ! t it ie ie “i * founded the Asylum for Prisoners’| only indication of approaching age, a second hand one from I t only costs one jitney to get your Gia tase Aon leht china cehian bao (ACHE nek widalis Wives and ( ne She provided! whose coloring and figure still retain] shoes ful! of the most beau enery tn the world | » were down In the cellar, Up| Say came the mumble fe hems, On tnany|thelr youthful qualities—and also for ubway is the cheapest kind of t © to get into in both || nt the und a great spread t ndages, “is that the Latin hours “ started} the mature woman who cannot be It only costs @ nickel. Getting out ts somet else || wer of flame lifted above nelghbor- for pig's hea i , ess fu 1 Siena robbed of the brilliancy and beauty again. The bird who designed Canal Street Station studied tn all the “ Pr if t ie ‘ hich {of complexion or youthful figure by] pest detention s in Europe and inhaled a post-graduate course in | 6. chips. Rattle around tn the corridors marked B, V and D until you held its annual ¢ at Sun-| ag ‘ Venetian street engiucertng. ¢ result 18 a magnificent triumph for ||O stub your ears on a flotilla of steps that look like an unravelled ook } erland Hou The prematurely gray may suc- Take these steps igh and t round eleven times to the right. j deriand Ho Iso became interested {cessfully wear materials of mixe bloodless surgery. be " hese steps in high and urn around i ir ° ight \ mie aU eee ga i t{eolor, such. as two-tone fabrics in| The reason why we haven't published gulde signs in Canal Street Turn four somersaults and take account of stoc you are ‘ made : to the varl-| which the less vivid color predoml-| 4, that we are afraid some Hohenzollern spy might be rubber-heeling , Inside of your shoes, you have gained a moral victory, Get another | us bra Pe eyed ory ist i febrion 0 WHEN THe ind elther, If you are tangled up in a corridor crush ike two sets of | shave, Adopt a zig-zag course to elu vroken chewing gum mar eee Cee OaAE Hex Oven type can wear The map will show yeu how to escape from Canal Street Sta sardines in one can, just blow a 1 whistle. ‘This will bring 3,000 ines and wind your Ingersoll up backward. Take corridors F, O and i leadership t © Ge Junior Re- | rather brill ant colors Also, P oviea AN you need 18 a e horn and a pair oars. Don't get » elbov police to swe he crush and it eas bad, The motto of | B through sixteen different assorted s-eande shapes of turnstiles F and | th re veiled with transparen. 7 i ‘ z i : s bes ‘ a seen . Se tht 4 ; white, black or dark colora of eombre| into more than three corridors at the san subway 1s the more the merrier. nd got a shave. and read directions on signpost, If t is right, you are wrong. | LAN SEE Tate tone - - | If you are in the old alg sub h to transfer to the zag de Retrace your footsteps and put ‘em back where you started, Take j Taran It is always best,” sums up the — a n Just flat fl f ) til you se ex! it first eltizenship pape entitling you to loiter within five hundred hi { ternational ¢ « a "1 LAD STS A PTS partment, Just flatwheel up a flock o Jorg until you seo an exit out firs! zenship papers, en | London int eae ne tare ine fmnouve GRAND SCENTRAL STATION, | marked “entrance.” This wil! help to take your mind off the war, yards of the waterfront, Hire a guide to unwind the corridors from k Pe scr ~\ 3 Nature's proportions when following Grand Scentral Station ts a triumph of the perfumer’s art. It ts Gallop up corridor Z until you ru into corridor XXX. Grab a around your neck. Follow the gu until you get dizzy in the hat. H \ In 191 ber SUAReen One. ee Moen faked @ hash of warmed over c and old glue vats. The old transfer to four fights of loose steps and » tg take plinters | In about two hours you will realize that the guide ts following you. al \ re Lane ‘ | pond Fe aera iho wan’ dressed | eubway was big enough to acc late New 1s, Only rea out of r mitte Cross the northbound tr. aking care not to Get your hatr cut and a shave, Swap uniforms with him and escape ¥ om: |in red velvet, a prominent lecturer on} gon we tilt the new sub was bec © wanted to seatter our atroel our exemption card, and park your t yuthbound by the nearest rainspout : Mika enavon ' ires# harmony made this reply ; pete Tillis a CARA ClantRal Gollaaie #ah TRIGE I if iat fara ahae ra a hateon Mba tha Mavala taint ee epee mec ff He TARA adam, Satire nate enna. bulia thes, After t ar 1 i ntral pu f r plattorm, Gettw anda hair Tak ator street Go hom and kick the cat for a fleld goal from a ayttioutt angle. ernment bee ni files and some humming birds red,| you can’t blame Columbus's crew for wanting to turn back level and ask the guard where the subway 18, He don't know, which | Shave four days’ worth of whiskers off your chin and put the “End of until it resulted thts w HA Inthe. Ane ee she pede elephants taupe, and We can't tell you the best way to get out of the Grand Central | {8 the reason he 1s @ guard. Twist your hat on backward to toss the | a Perfect Subway” on the old graphanoozulum. t c andidacy o! ure, es good ri f A eppeeruent af We SAB RIBACE Of, ERM eee criterion? ae 4S mystic maze, There ain't any best way. There is no next best way, bloodhounds off your broken arched trafl and buy a new stack of Gong. | ‘ 2 ts a é