The evening world. Newspaper, July 31, 1918, Page 12

WEDNESDAY, S55; ports RIDING IDING clothes one should be rule they are worn so badly whom to be guided by. e oa horseback. The breeches should Probably know, and then flare only a little between the knes and hip. Too much of a flare wy apt to look ridicu- lous, and, unless cut very carefully, , bulky. They should either lace or button from the kusve down, just on i the inside of the shin bone, and that 18 where American made breeches are wrong. They invariably button or lace on the outside of the leg, which is mot considered correct among ‘horsey’ people. It would be impos- sible to have the opening right down the front of one's leg became the Yattons or eyelets would press on the bone, so it should be just a iittle to Une inside. For the boots I can only advise al- ways having them made to order; no ome can get a properly fitted pair of boots reudy made. They have two sare to be too large around the top, and wo fail to hug closely the calf of the leg. The other is, they invariably cut them too low. It is difficult to explain just how high boots should be because every one's logs are of a @ifferent length, but most boots fail ua not being high enough, and so it is advisable to always have meade as high as one can comfortably bear them when the knee is bent hey should ft snugly «round the top and also follow the line of the calif of the leg. A very pretty boot is one c “polo” boot, which bas @ little Is at the instep and ankle, making it easier to get on and off as well giving a neater appearance about the ankle. Of oourwe there are leggings of all sorts to be worn with high boots, but I do not like them on women and 90 cannot write sincerely or interestingly about them, very pinin and tailor-made, with per those in a British officer's uniform It should fit very closely through the shoulders and body part, with a lit- tle fullness or flare allowed in the} skirt, There should be no belt, and} standing, between the coat, when one is @hould reach only half way the hips and knee. the bottom rather than harp corners. The re to end vers should be narrow as on @ business man's every- day wuit. As to materials, I consider checks habits very tiring and in bad tas’ particularly if one is going to have only one riding outfit. Nothing tobacco shade of brown. In rough weeds a gray or mixed material 1 attractive and wears well, Black @lean and is oniy riding or horse shows. is very hard to Besides, wits f@ black habit only black boots can be worn, and tan ure so much practical and can be worn with % many different colors all the yea yound—besides looking more sporty (The older they get the better they|Enstish grammar and especially the! © feok if kept properly polished and on | tenses . @ fees, and for spring and summer |, Biel my bere. eald the master it € have £1,444," fey are really the only thing to} tense be? what] wear. One's breeches and coat need no! ‘ And How to Wear Them By Mrs. Vernon Castle I bave ridden stnce I was six years old, and have tried very hard to fest in the world. The hardest things to get here are good breeches and good boots, and they constitute the most important part of one’s costume grievous faults; one is that they are | them | The coat to one’s habit should be) baps three or four patch pockets like | The front of the coat should be rounded off a lite at in is prettier than a light tan or a pretty remarkably uitable for indoor | P% more RR N JULY 31, 1918 Clothes | CLOTHES The Second of Three Articles Describing for Evening World Read- ers Proper Manner of Dress for All Outdoor Sports. particularly careful of, because as a and incorrectly that it is hard to tell get good advice from ‘those who know as to just what is correct | or even permis: sitle, and 1 will | try to give you a general idea of | what ts suitable and correct for the everyday | ride. IT speak only of riding astride. That is the way T myself | ride, but fot those who are short or of heavy build I can only advise a eide sad- die. One is al ways correct astride, and I cannot help feel- tng it ie better adapted to most women, f It has been my | good fortune to . always have been | able to obtain my riding togs in England, where | they make the fit very tightly at the knee, as you looks smarter if they de not. Noth- ing is smarter than white polo breeches and @ tan coat. The breeches can be made uf either white flannel, duck or cotton gaburdine. They clean or wash very well and look cool and “summery.” The coat must always be the darker in ovlor and the plainer in matertal, With white breeches one can xl- Ways wear a sleeveless poly coat these have become very popular of }@ little more fulness in the skirt than | | the ordinary riding coat that I have | above described, and In tact the body | part, too, need not fit as snugly but | can hang rather straight from the | shoulder-not hugging the waist, but | | sMebtly “pinched in’ to the figure. It] | has no belt, of course, and no re- vers are needed; just a plain V tine| for the neck, because the soft ail or | linen collar to the biouse which one | wears with this wiyle f ¢ wer the cout, Jiine. The poets chuvid be ex | tremely large and only ¢ | ber, as they ar at comes |, finis’ ing off the ne a. UPPoHed to hold polo balls if nm ‘eet This coat can be | ja trifle longer than the other habit coat and need not be rounded in the front—the straight line and aquare cut corner being better suited to this style of coat, The blu may be of linen or silk A“heavy white wash silk is prefer- able with down collar, The sleeves should be cut and put in at tne shoulders like those in @ man’s shirt, Rolled back cuffs with links are most attractive In hats there is little choice, In the winter onty derbies are correct, | although, !f you find them hopelessly |unbecoming or uncomfortable, a, |plain felt hat, sailor shape with a \narrow brim, can be worn. the summer a panama (not too wide of |brim) may be worn, Or a plain sailor, or, as in the accompanying il- | lustration, a leghorn blocked rather like @ man's fedora, This, I think, _|looks neat and tailor-made. ,| My riding shirts are of linen with stiffly starched cuffs like « and have finely pleated or shirt fronts or In man tucked My waist coats (or vests, as they are called in America) are also an important part | of my costume, They keep your shirt and breeches neatly together and | should also show just a litue above ,| the revers of your coat. In the win- ter and fall I have woollen waistcoats of soft flannel material—generally ,| With a fine crossbar of blue or red {Panning through it—single-breasted, | and with about seven buttons down ,| the front. ‘There are two little watch kets ther wide the | bosoms. one on ¢ at | Waist line, In the summer this same style of waistcoat or vest ts made in white duck or pique. Count, 1916, vy the Holi Byndirate, Ima, > > r TENSE MOMENTS, They were engaged in wrestling with not long in coming. answered the bright ter oh A box f the class,—Pil . oy ry of the class.- tieburgb Chronicle |late. A coat of this sort should have |/' io num- | « V neck and soft, turned} - — — MARINE Photographing War Flying Upside Down THESE ARE SOME OF THE THINGS THAT AN AERIAL CAMERA MAN MUST DO TO KEEP UP WITH UNCLE SAM’S MARINES. TYPE OF GUNNER JOHN Mig LA MOND ck PLANE OO FEE scour PLANE USED Gy MARINES “ j 4 HOW LA MOND TAKES FLYING UPSIDE DOWN MOVIES hf ] it HOW UPSIDE LOOKS TO DOWN FLY OUR MOTTO: “E Pluribus Squattum” or, “United We Stand” SUBWAY STATISTICS We wore the first to advocate a larger standing army In order to facilitate the handling of a larger standing army we doubled the straps in each subway gondola. We ask no favors, We stand on our past record. So does the public, We are the most patriotic company in America, Just lamp our motto. Nothing is wasted ia the sub, We even use our air over six and seven times, Owing to the power consumed, we cau't run out cars and the fans at the same time. Take your pick In spite of all the confusion, there hasu't been a walrus lost in the subway since 1908 MY FOUR YEARS IN THE SUBWAY, By Slambassador Gerwhat (Indicating that all is fair in love and the subway.) Realizing that affairs had hopped to a crisis, 1 grasped my now famous black satchel and took it on the run, The Cheeser was plainly nervous as 1 ordered @ lemon soda with only one straw in it, Hereto fore the Cheeser and I had gone fifty-fifty or our lemon sodys. ‘That ta, 1 had paid for ‘em and the Cheeser horned in on ‘em. He was cer- tainly one tough-boiled egg. But it is no time to pull the tworstraw sody stuff when nations are flat-wheeling toward a ballyhoo Having failed to get his starched mustachios damp in 4 free soda the Cheeser tried to slip me the old oil “America ees @ gread city,” said the Cheeser, in broken English. “Ah! Your Simperial Highness, praise from the Cheeser is praise indeed.” “Chea,” the Cheeser continued, meanwulle lamping wy lemon sody Edited by ARTHUR THE WEATHER: Loose as ashes, with a blizzard of alibis (BUGS) BAER With a regal halibut-like eye, “ have ofden vished to visid America like der Prince Henry, 1s der sody nice to der taste?” Couldn't be ter unless they cheated, Excellency,” 1 retorted, keeping my gout eye on the Cheeser's fingers, which are remarkably long and pickpocketish, At the same time I was giving that lemon soda a terrible beating. ‘The Kaiser apparently saw all chances of getting his ears wet vanish like snowballs in the bailiwick of the damned, He ch ed the subject like a snake changes his skin. You know 1 love der orphan and der vidow, Slamba dor, don'’d der orphan and der so much dot my heart veeps like a busted rainspout in Abril.” “Oh yes, Cheeser, Anybody must love orphans and widows who has made 3,000,000 of them in four years. Were you ever a dip in the subway?” I asked, eyeing his sinister finge! The Cheeser caught the subtle challenge in my voice. He flushed like # sunset somewhere in a Pacific port. Turning on his O'Sullivans, he gyrated up and down like a tender. footed cootie n a red-hot stove ‘ou? 1 love vidow lid. I realized that the interview was dwindling like a dry sponge. Pouring the remains of the lemon sody into my famous black bag, | hau off and slammed the Cheeser on the beak like a big league mbassador, When they brought him to, his mustaches were pointing the wrong “Give der Slambassador four yards of subway tickets und tell him dot | have declared var on der subway,” he shrieked, Picking up a few thousand straps to last me on my voyage across way. th ean, 1 the now empty soda water straw in the Cheeser’s ynished complexion. Folding up my transatlantic high hat in my now famous black bag, I scampered dignifiedly out of the Simperial presence and was soon swallowed up in the turmoil of Grand Central Station Back of me was a sea of elbows, In front of me was an ocean of bunions, Overhead escadrilles of straps were darting to and fro like soused sparrows. The Cheeser was plainly worried at my democratic indifference to his threats. All this took place on the diplomatic local Now I was about to board the express, with my famous brunette bag loaded with 6-cent subpoenas to the subway. Slamming a few subwayites out of my way, I grappled the nearest strap and pondered on the rough career of a Slambassador, (Continued on the fourth window in the seventh car of the Harlem trains.) | | | scene was snapped when the machine WEDNESDAY, JULY 31, 1918 i) ¢ 4 ww A NN = Marine Flies Upside Down At 100 Miles an Hour, Taking U.S. Battle Pictures John M. La Mond Left the Screen to Join the Marines, and Now He | tors Try to Register for Drama Only Part of. By Frank J in an airplane thousands of feet in the life of Marine Gunner Job rin And their work, though little k sureenough thrills. The special tasks hairbreadih trick is too risky for them. | breath-taking nose dives and tall spin machine follows them, clicking off the uted by the From the movies to the marines ts was in Francis X. Bushman’s company big picture at Port Henry, on Lake € United States entered the war. La Me as a private. tenancy in the army has been offered Som Jerful phy has b ‘complished by La Mond, par- ticularly in the pictures taken from airplanes. These views give specta- | tors all the sensations of flying. One wo photog tal on ou |was looping the loop. The ground {beneath fades away until nothing is seen but the horizon, then only | clouds, then the horizon on the other side and finally the ground again. | Pictures taken while an airplane was |in a nose dive show the ground rap- jidly whirling around and approach- Jing the spectator. The effect is so | realistic that persons it frequently become dizzy. | Other pictures of airplanes In bat- \tle were taken by machines oniy a | short distance away, all of them run- th 8c sel watehing fil moving pictures (built around the “devil-dogs’ news weeklies and shown pictures are made just for the benefit of the marines themselves, to get him, but he intends to stick to the ma course work, but accomplished body. “battle burt, There were bombs bursting all around, clubbed Several sions from the Is Busy Filming Our | Devil-Dogs’’—Scenes So Vivid Spectators Have All Sensations of Flying—Thrills Which Direc- Day’s Work With War Photographer. . Webb above the earth is just an ineldent bn M. La Mond. T ss moving pletures when flying 100 miles an hour upside down He is at the head of what would be called the moving picture depart- ment of the United States Marine Corps, if it had » name. ‘The men in it, like those In other branches of this service, are—just ma- - But it hasn't. own to the public, is filled with of these men is the production of and their activitie No They loop the loop or engage in while an operator in another scenes, The pictures are distrib throughout the country, Other n the jump made by La Mond. He and they were just starting on a Shamplain, a short time after the ond decided that there was some- thing more important to be doné, So in June, 1917, he joined the marines For his work in developing the pictures in the marines he was made an officer. new branch of moving Since then a First Lieu- him, and the navy also has tried king the picture, and straightened ut when only fifty feet away, Of the U boat was sunk before the end of the picture, La Mond is reticent about his own tells proudiy of what is by the as a “They'll do auything we ask em,” he said, “We had one trench ene in which the boys threw them- Ives so enthusiastically into the that a number were badly? marines the other over and each marines cheerfully the head. so were burned by explo- bombs, are about to start now on @ based upon an actual stery “We m pla ning countless risks of collision, Ma-|of the marines, You know, only two lclines are seen approaching at ter-| marines have been captured by the rific speed until they apparently are| Germans so far in this war, The ex- just about to smash into the specta-|periences of one of them have been tor, Then they make a sudden|made into a p We have an ex- swerve or leap and apparently just| cellent company of actors who are miss graaing the picture man, The|members of the marines, and they slightest inaccuracy means death for]are to play in this drama. The pro- all ceeds will go to the Red Cross, ' A. operator stands in the rear of “My real ambition, of course, is to his machine when taking pictures. | take photographs over and behind tho \with an air pressure of more than|]German lines, That was my idea tn |100 miles an hour this itself is no| joining the marines, It had been easy job. The vibration of the air-| practically settled that I was to sail plane, which sometimes shakes like|for France on July 1, but the orders , wheezy flivver, adds to his trou-| were changed at the last minute and ble He is strapped around the|now I have to wait a while longer, ee fn other straps connected| “But I am going over, if I have to bottom of the fuselage keeo him from falling out should the pilot Jdecide to loop the loop, But what- ever position he finds himself in, he wi rey tal sign and re-enlist in the ranks.” La Mond has built up an impor- nt organization, There is $30,000 worth of equipment in his headquar- goes on methodically turning the|ters at No, 117 East 24th Street. crank. Some pictures show remark-|One-ree! comedies are furnished to vwle views of landscape as seen from|all the marines’ camps besides the in airplane. ‘They convey the most|big pictures made for public exhibt urate information obtainable, for] tions, Some of the pictures had sueh lens cannot lie, a suc that they were taken over Many dramas built around the ma-|by the Committee on Public Informa nes have been filmed. One, showing} tion, Besic the plays, every form submarine hunt, was taken in the|of activity “of the marines is pics Guif of Mexico. Four submarines,|tured. Part of the scenes in “Amer- four chasers, hydro-airplanes, dirigi- ‘9 Answer.” the big film. that ples and a gunboat were in action.| opened Monday night at the George One aviator did a nose dive from a|M. Cohan Theatre, were made by height of only 900 feet—a thing con-|these men, Scenes have been made sidered almost certainly fatal, Trav-|in camps, In the air, at sea and elling at @ rate of somewhere be-| studios. They have caused the en- 300 miles the man tween 200 and dove straight at nth Americanisms at the Front Here are a few real Americanisms | uttered by our soldiers during the} the | recent fighting—the same men Germans described as “America's | centemptible little army. A wounded doughboy, asked how they cleaned up the nests, explained: an hour, he|listment of thousands of men in the German prisoners passed by apeer escort of an American sol- “y would let vony, a8 he trudged along. wish to God the Captain me.” was the lacome ay ain't a human race,” de. clared one doughboy after he had listen: When we rushed 'em we'd sireotion, alt Sf German yell: ‘Over the top, fellows! Get The following remark was over- em!’ Then we'd run forward, fire [heard while American troops were mr sitting and smoking peacefully around American headquarters are kept jumping forward. One General was asked one evening by his aid where | nis new headquarters were. | “I'm sorry,” the General replied, | “but 1 don't know. | haven't had a chance to look.” | | ing. Tha | some reneh ruins “Well, it’s a hell of a war, but the only one we've got.” We regret being unable on thi occasion to follow the counsels of our masters, the French, but the American flag has been forced to retire. We are going to counter attack.” A Signal Corps man who was! ‘nis is from an American Gen- stringing New wires for the past foW | eral in commind of forces south of days because of the activity of the/ine Marne after the Germans. had American artillery was heard to 84¥3|heon forced back toward Conde-ene We've been chasing this damn | jiri« | artillery for two days and just The trite way in which the Amerie caught them! can commander at Givray. reported This is the way Gen, Pershing ex-|the capture of the town to headquar pressed his feelings to the Wounded |ters leads one to believe ne nivat ‘American soldiers lying in Red | have elved his ning in a news Cross hospital in Paris on July 2 ape io W the teincetine era “Your country is proud of you, and | am more than proud to command such men as you. You have fought splendidly.” “Why don’t you kill the dirty ewine?” yelled a doughboy as two ort.” Let ug read Met Boche on his line of re: sistance. Sharp turned tail and ran 1, sued by our troops. Hope have more prisoners.”