The evening world. Newspaper, July 30, 1918, Page 12

» JULY 30, 1918 What Is Your Color ? If Blonde, Your Colors Depend | wien a On Whether You Are Classified As Fair, Strawberry or Medium TUESDAY, JULY 30, 1918 Armor for British Soldiers — —— Like That Worn by Knights, Curiosities of the Armorer’s Art During the Middle Ages} FEW EXAMPLES FROM THE METROPOLITAN MUSEUM THAT MIGHT BE DUPLICATED IF WE RETURN TO OLD STYLES. “ Modern Breastplate Closely Follows Desians That Armorers Worked Out Hundreds of Years Ago— If the Plan Succeeds We May Send Men to Bat- tle Clad in Ancient Fashion—How Steel Wizards { | “STYLISH OLD MAIL, | WITH STEEL Ed RUFFLES = PLATES FIXED Like NEW BRITISH MAIL While Some Colors Are Becoming to All Blondes, Others, Which Go Well With Fair Hair, Are Fatal With Red, as Pointed Out by Mary Brooks Picken in This Article, the Second of a Series By Marguerite Mooers Marshall CLEVER woman artist once gave me a short and simple rule for A determining the most becoming colors to wear. “Choose,” she eaid, “s color which matches your eyes or contrasts with your hair.” — | That scems to me an admirable suggestion as far as it goes, but it does not take into account the har- monious combining of color with complexion. of To-Day Hope to Find Protection Against Bullets. By James C. Young | HE modern knight who goes to France for right and glory soon may ‘3 be armor clad, like his forebear in ages past. That is the vision of to-morrow. Experiments now being made by the British ha’ brought up again the whole interesting question whether it is possible to | make body armor that will be effective against high-velocity rifle fire, Ap- | parently the British believe that it is an experiment worthy of careful (6 IN. SHELL EFFECT iN AN OLD PIECE OF ARMOR AN OLD BUCKLER, BUILT FOR DE {F FLECTING (1S ™ Century) FOUND IN BORDEAUX, Bd For ex- HARBOR tests. Steel corselets recently were issued to certain units on the firing ample, a frock of rose-pink contrasts admirably with OLD GERMAN FACE line, and the mortality records of those units are being closely watched. i the dark locks of her who “walks in beauty like the} ARMOR RESEMBLING These corselets have a flexible body of small steel plates and are expected night.” But if this brunette bas very red cheeks, pink THE CROWN to deflect all bullets save those fired at close range. is one of the last shades which she should attempt to PRINCE Should these experiments prove worth while, the science of warfare put near them. | Probably will be changed again. It was the rifle bullet that rendered use- In her most {Illuminating book, “The Secrets of Dis- ‘less the armor of other days. If we can produce armor to lower the efi- ' tinctive Dress,” Mary Brooks Picken explains that the} | ciency of rifles and machine guns, then indeed will we have turned back color scheme of a woman's costumes should depend bathe t ‘ ‘ the extensive armor collection primarily on the color scheme ordained for her by ANCIENT |_In . } oe ature, Not every tint which sets off the delicate, shell-like beauty of | WEAPON LIKE | ereer Se At thesk rena uny coisas | Theta AUS Ane aupdr Galleries OFT HIMES ‘ the Dresden china blonde is equally kind to the gypsy loveliness of the © TRENCH . lthat bear the mark of Fife butlets.| He fashioned his handicraft. It wase \ 4 brunette. Yet so many women seem to dr according to the color laws PERSUADER | Some of these are merely dents, but| custom to first draw a design for the § of the cubists—any color, as long as enough of it is used and as long as lin other cases the bullet went| particular suit ordered and then work it is companioned by half a dozen other sh des. through. Perhaps few of us ever|from this design, ral of these For the benefit of these mixcuided ee | knew that John Paul Jones wore both | breast and back plates in the com- | seum, | bat of the Bon Homme Richard with | tho the Serapis. But these two plates | now hang on the museum walls, that |worn over the herole breast of its sketches are preserved by the mu- In one case both sketch and completed suit have survived. They are shown together, and the sult exactly du tes tho sketch. An old English buckler, said to have been among the first used, figures in the museum collection. This dates from the early fifteenth century, hav- ing been dredged at the port of Bu deaux in 1911, What fancies one may persons Miss Picken has compiled a color chart, in “The Secrets of Dis- tinetive Dress," by means of which each adventurous mariner on the sartorial sea may lay her course #0 as to avoid the reefs of ugliness and ineffectiveness and to follow the channels of beauty and harmony. Blondes are classified by the au- thor in three groups, First comes the woman she calis the “fair Black, especially transparent black, becomes this type; also cream and ivory white. Every shade of red and also tans and yellow browns should be avoided. Almost every shade of green, except the darkest, is likewise taboo, unless the complexion is clear and there is plenty of color. Purple should be put on the list of non-es- sentials unless the skin is very white, when certain shades of laven- + BREAST PLATE WORN GY JOHN a PAUL JONES ON owner having a sizeable dent, as “BONHOMME RICHARD” STEEL HAT OF CROMWELL'S | though it had come in violent con- OAY - ANZAC TYPE he with some missile. | OLD GERMAN HEAD PIECE LOOKS LIKE THE KAISER~ ORIGIN OF One of the first things that man learned on his upward struggle from himself the abyss was to protect evoke, just to look at that old bucklor! blonde.” who has fluxen or golden| ‘er are permissible. against the things thrown his way.|In what wild contest of the olden hair, dive, gray or brown eyes and a| But & wide choice of colors ts left | First we had the hide shield, then the|times was it lost, and what became clear, almost colorless complexion, | % the lady of the flaming locks, She GERMAN HELMET jone of iron; the Roman casque and a|of the man who carried it? Only the I agree with Miss Picken that|™Y Appear in rich, deep, dark DUPLICATES ANCIENT | hundred other sorts of helmets. But| waters in Bordeaux harbor might te!l black is a good color for this type,| row. in midnight or navy blue} * GOTHIC DESIGN | /t Was not until the thirteenth cen-/|tho tale, This buckler is of particulur 5 ends caw & Slonde who had been| Vide-@ray and soft, silent tones .of tury that any real attempt was made | interest because | by Western peoples to shield the|ioned with an eye body with armor. Some of the earlier bullets, examples shown at the museum con- | sist of leathern jackets covered with ngs or studded with brass plates. |The next ev brought the vidently was fash- to turning away involved in more than one divorce mult, but who looked as if she was Prepared to ascend her own private road to heaven—simply because she had the sense to wear a wide, black | lace hat. Miss Picken suggests that blue; also in gray, particularly gray with a pink cast. In trimmings, rich amber or orange may be employed, and the lightest tints of pink are per- fectly suitable. With a skilful use of harmonious Oe ee ee 2 ee = oe An original “tin hat” of special in- terest, also in the muscum, was fash- joned as long ago as 1645. It is turned ution up on one side, in much the when this type wears black she|°°!T. the red-haired woman in my | mailed coat, often made of chain, one 4 tng PU Rents hice Hl should combine it with touches of| Pinion may be the most beautiful [row lsteriaced in the other, Gomes |s recently have had the opportudlty Beat anlots ana WhIls. and alluring of all Eve's daughters. ~ th nes 8 se effect was, sonlsres svelte y . at Mary Brooks Picken classes N wth ara) Names Bf ayae)) he AE mpEt { . Laci Laeveh wile We enpeeielyy as the blonde-brunetis la a type pore perce NG ers being such w s at their trade oie moesbes tsa storehouse of res ' very dark shades of brown and green | “CUlarly In evidence in our American Ne =“ Ae fe) Beeb Or LO CDE) Menmebll ra ina arisen eculbitisttara Ferdi > or bronze. Aleo she can wear|*C®®: She has light chestnut or| BUILT LIWE fs p — [having @ steel ruffle about the bot- | il saad rien ‘p PDI ORO DOriies u almost every shade of blue, includ- | PTOW® hair. gray, blue-xray, hazel or| A SHIPS 4 ‘ ‘ ROL AAG GP Hebe E erat Ture wa abais iis tox sos eae 4 Ga aek. Geass aah bakden, brown eyes and a “medium" com.| PROW The fifteenth and sixteenth cene | ee ne ee ous pe . . provided she avoids the most brii- |x GERMAN turies saw the passing of the mail back on the armor our soldiers may : Hant and startling tints. Heliotrope,| O° of the best shades for her ts Goat toe IkreD aemTOR AAG the Ad> |. tod , eons tone ‘ ‘ pink, particularly pale pink and rose, If she has a blue suit it will deepen and intensify the blue of blue-gray wisteria and blue-violet become her. Both light and dark green suit her and she is almost the only type who can wear with safety all shades of |¥¢% although she should shun the this most trying color. very bright shades of blue, Clear white or pinkish white are admirable for her. Among the Bhe is right in choosing, as she so frequently does, gray for her Eas- ter costume, particularly pearl, dove and the warm shades. If she wants a red dress, she must be careful in selecting it, Dark and brilliant shades of red are best, 1 personally do not think that any shade of this color is particularly be coming to a blonde. On the other hand, she is lovely in the delicate pastel shades of pink and in old rose. She should taboo practically every shade of yellow, except perhaps the very palest. The strawberry or Titian blon the next type considered by colors which Mins Picken belleves suit this type fairly | well are black, brown, purple, gray palest yellow, ‘There are qualifica- tions attached to the use of each of these hues, When the blonde-bru- nette wears a Dlack dress she should, trim it with color or white, Pinkish tan and golden brown are the best) variations of this color to select This woman never should combine gray with black—uor any other woman, in my opinion, The darkest shades of purple are most desirable, Miss|#!though if her complexion ts very Picken, who says that, with slight ear she may wear lavender, wariationa, the same table of colors| She will look well in the darkest may be followed by every feminine | "hades of red, particularly {f com variation of this type, which may be| bined with dark blue, She bo lovely or #0 plain, Ite determin. |#HoUld never wear ecru tint, Green ing characteristic (8, of course, red| #ults her fairly well, especially blue- very hair, combined with blue, gray or| #T0n. dental ae i a e next article in this serie: brown eyes, and a clear white or! geal with the colore brunettes ahoon moderately : Seer ; One-Way Glass Newest Invention OR making range-finders, check- ing evepieces for gunsights, for comparison oculurs, microscopes and for other oped, This the metal she 8 another reason why @ not be used for mak- | binocular | ing Jewelry. purposes) The invention was perfected in it has been found necessary to pro-| Germany before war and it was duce a one-way glass; that is, ) immediately put to uso not only for glass which looked through from one| purposes of military observat side {s transparent, while looked at from the other is opaque and func tions as a mirror, This ts brought about by silvering in such a m herr vo that exactly the measure of! inj light is transmitted through it as is) pr Feflected by it. It was originally ac- complished by silvering the entre @urface of one side of the plate first) also for th favored of the not for Instance, the hig')-well-bor yner sen, W same wealth and influence, © one-way glass to equip t castle nary gue so that the mirrors to t rom Wally of his appeared | and then removing one-half of the| had convenient posts of « | covering in the form of thin, alter-| provided for himself at the ba | nate strips, net close together, Tech-| aa ‘a | nical difficulties induced an improve- RUNNING HIM DOWN, ment which consisted in covering the| ‘“Tle's an Infernal lar and a tuttering surface with a film of silver so thin | foo!” arled Constable Sam T. Slack. | that tho same result 1s accomplished; | Putter 88 he at alone on the porc fi that 1s, that there ts a perfect al. | {he Petunta Tavern, “He's a thiet, a ance of light transmitted against light | wy lewadl hi, ig at the doc ‘What in thund along landiora, ay of the hos are you doing, t-a-way, all by yours platinum make it very desirable to| cussing \ use platinized glass for military op- | sel: and ties, for its use in thie weapect have been BREAST PLATE OUR MOTTO: “E Pluribus Squattum” or, “United We Stand” LATER EXTRA subway Sun THE WEATHER: Strappy overhead within- termittent Turkish baths THIS PAPER'S LOYALTY There has been some double barrelled chinning that the Subway Sun {8 a pacifist paper, That bunk is wronger than a two-foot yard- stick, Every strap in the tournament has been bought and paid for with the sweat of the New York public, Every inch of the subway 1g spangled with the buntons of Harlem's most loyal citizens, 88 a mean eye on our motto 2 Pluribus Squattum! United we stand! O Jazzibus Standum! Divided we stand also! What could be sweeter? We are not pacifists, We may be standupists, but not pactfists, We are for war! We are for war until the Kalser stubs bis nose on the Arctic Circle and the subway ts cured! E Pluribus Standum! SPACE FOR SALE ON OUR ELECTRIC FANS, SUBWAY STATISTICS. It {8 estimated that a potato bug could leap from one elbow to another in the Brooklyn subway without having to touch bis dainty feet on the ground during the whole hop There are 45,987,675,000,- 000 elbows to each square foot, ‘The reason why we always reckon in equare feet 18 that your feet get equare from standing tn the subway, ADVERT The first lavaliiere ever manufactured was Invented by a former Jeweler who reformed and secured a position as a subway guard. Seeing his chance, he wrapped a car door around a local passenger's neck ana tied it la a lover's knot. The idea wes very quaint American battleboats are now being camouflaged lke subway seats, are totally invisible at a distance cf one yard and 6 cents. THE LIFE OF JOR ZAPP, STRAPDANG (Now appearing on windows of Bronx expresses.) Chapter I Joe Zapp had dangled on a subway strap for eleven years. Finally, he got ripe and fo!l off, Hastily putting on his dust mask, he rattled into the Grand Central Station and Lied to escape through a pessageway about as big and as straight as a fountain pen with the cramps. He had been in the subway eleven years, minus six months off for good behavior, He was a trusty, but decided to take it on the hool, Edited by ARTHUR (BUGS) BAER | | | | | He flatwheeled into the nearest buffet, where he remained seven days without water! After suffering the tortures of a Republican Post master during a Democratic Administration, he had come up for air at last. Slipping a pewter jitney to the ticket mangler, he purchased @ set of automatic “rs and boarded a Bronx local which had accidentally stopped near a station, Swiftly dangling from strap to strap, he dangled his way toward liberty, when he perceived a blonde lady and a child with blue eyes the color of an Interborough ticket. “Women and children first!" he jazzboed as he knooked four allen enemies toward the where they were promptly pinched for being near the water front without a zone permit. Hastlly gath- ering up two dozen assorted eizes of Intervorough straps, he made them up into a tasty bouquet and presented them to the cbild, who generously went ty-fifty with her mother, Refusing a medal, Zapp hastily gathered up his remaining straps. To his horror he discovered that there were only 567,678,456,000, 000,000,000,000 between himself and a seat. Was he finally to clatter down into seat after an honorable and ated life of 76 seatless years? s he? Suddenly there was a roar like Vesuvius on @ souse and an eleo tric fan cut loose on all four legs! Zapp grew so excited that his suspenders snapped up and knocked his hat off. whis un (Continued on windows of Brooklyn locals.) Buy your tickets now for the most thrilling serial story ever publiched op the windows of any car windows in the world. Friday will be Squawk Day, Every legitimate moan will be pub Mshed in the Subway Sun, provided the squawker has taken out his The subway has a record of first citizenship papers. ‘7 squawks to the sque © strap. NOT MUCH DIFFERENCE. | REVERSAL OF FORM. wonder to-day at vent of the heavy armor in which we} 4 y | fathers? are accustomed to picture ye olden | knight, This includes a half dozen separate pieces, but the body armor was the vital part, and It was on that the armorer centred his skill. Before the advent of firearms we find this armor made to the lines of the body | \for the most part. But the growing use of gunpowder in the sixteenth | century worked a sharp change of style, The breastplate was brought to an abrupt point just above the ab- Jomen, something like the prow of a boat, for the quite obvious purp of deflecting bullets, And during the that of our fore. > How Britain's Youngest Tommy Enlisted describing how he managed to get into the British Army despite his seventeen years, Tommy Ke- hoe, reported to be the youngest British vetera ys in Boys' Lite for August: I meant to get into that war, even though I was too young. It was too good to miss, and there might not be another in a lifetime, I had blown next 200 years the armorer exercised! , pugie a few times—just about all of his ingenuity in seeking @ WAY | enough to make a noise through it— to stop the deadly leaden balls, Some- and I thought that if they times he almost held his own, but iM | very particuta weren't about how the music every instance the gunsmith oUt- | sounded I might get into the band of reached him. Gradually armor be-|the 5th King's Liverpool. Itegiment, came no better protection than $0! where Billy Clegg who lived almoat much cheesecloth, | next door to us, was a rifleman, Taut We always think of the old knight| would be a step to getting into tha as a man ho sly weighted down, | fighting ranks, unable to manoeuvre with any speed,) y managed it without mi and likely to be Killed in the melee! troubte, and went with ihe regl- if he once became unhorsed. AS ®/ment ‘to Camp Oswestry, near |matter of fact, the armored fighting | Cargim, Nobody ad oo hie |man in the Middle Ages carried 00) was much of a bugler and more welgbt than the soldier of t0-| there was no reason why I should tell» day. When it is considered that the them. They would find out soo! erage sult of armoi ged from | oon, average suit of armor rang d ‘m|enough, And they did. ‘Tho Colonel |rorty-tive to eighty-five pounds and quid T wax the worst bugler Inthe |that the wearer usually was mountcd,| service of the King, and what. the Jhe certainly did not have so bad a Bandmaster said was even worsi ltime as the modern soldier carryiag ©. Jabout seventy pounds of equipment into action, By that time some of the riflemen wanted me as a mascot to bring them | Almost a true-to-life imago of the, 'Uck and they did their best to help Kaiser may be found on the front of, ™° Set Into the ranks. I weighed ‘a helmet at the museum, This helmet | OY Bincty-six pounds and my height is of Gepman workm hip, and the Was only feet 10, so It was hard to maker would seem to have had the/CoMvince the Colonel that I was big war lord in mind when he made it, | CPOUF! but the more he heard my 8 startling, with che DUsling the more ho » 1 to like mustaches and ferocious | the idea of my carrying o ¢ Aud man fme. f sto my I may {at last he made a rif had to throw in thre for good measure, I hop. |man production, is @ very good like-| ness of the Crown Prince, nes | That styles seldom change, even in|" for that one, for my . ’ mother Up to tell tho nor, is shown by an old German bs armor, truth. Ww Q \netmet now on display. It is of al- | most the exact shape worn by German a govud The old gentleman was visiting bis! ‘Well, well, Jones, of all the surprises! | soldiers to-da And the French hel- | —_> on at school. on, who flunked tn every mathe-| mot of our time has a close re = THE TRIPPING TONGUE, Run out of this," rhe a wivine Bie exam, chief euditor of your blance to others made some hundreds iF A lady had n Joking Cor fond son acoin, “I took a taxi, The taxider 8! | Bap ap Pr TPs a long time without su sone ira waiting for his fare. | Yes, indeed; he's an expert, too.” | of Years AS By a Os eae 4 she came upy her in an unexpected | vipant driver, not taxidermist, father,”| ‘Well, who is the elderly bookkeeper | AR armorer's ORE a said the youth. he’ rasuing for balling up the bal-|equipped, with forge, hammers, é&e., | she exclaimed, ‘lve heen on ty a 1 ances?” “A nice distinction,” said his father ‘He? Why, he's my son placidly, “One skins animals, the other faosor _ of taathenal skins humans,"——Philadelphia inquirer, snennensmych etter aaenancy sie sti saiteeiinl former pro- — Richmond may be seen at the museum, On the (a perf.ct wiid Kore chai wall bangs a certificate showing that bu! thank «»,1e«%, I'v the ownor belonged to the armorers’ last."—Boston Transcript. Lan ea as Fall ad AAO ald Om oa maeeyy |