The evening world. Newspaper, June 28, 1918, Page 16

FRIDAY, JUNE 28, 1918 If Women Giv e Up Corsets To Help Win the War, They'll Also Win Health! ¥aed-Doing Good Hard War Work by Replacing Men, as English Women Have Done, Will Keep Them From Getting Fat and Says Dr. Mary Halton, tion That Stays Should Be Placed on List of Non-Essentials. By Marguerite Mooers Marshall Will Even Reduce Them, Commenting on Sugges- WY oe Y Tt » ae « Ny (it With the American Army SEVENTH OF A SERIES OF SKETCHES DRAWN “OVER TITERE” BY P, D. BROWN, U. S. A. WATT in France A \ FRIDAY, in Which Author, Capt. regiment, a story containing JUNE 28, RNY \ yi \) s ee Ka 1918 » WW ‘How a Recruit Rises From Private in Ranks To Commissioned Officer Rules of the Road for American Boys in “The Single ‘Star, F. S. Grierson, Tells How Promotion Is Won in the Allied Armies of To-Day. HE story of a recruit’s progress from the draughtsman’s high eteot in an architect's office to the Second Lieutenancy of a crack all sorts of useful rules of the road jfor the many American boys now setting forth on a similar pilgrimage— | that is the friendly tale told by Capt. F. D. Grierson, which he calls “She Single Star.” John Edward Martin, Capt. Grierson’s most un-self-conscious of | heroes, is a Britisher, to be sure, yet he is a soldier of the new order and the new army—which honestly is making itself, as well as the world, safe for democracy. In this army, whether it flies the Stars and Stripes or |the Union Jack, orders and discipline minister te the efficiency of men, | not men to the sanctity of orders and discipline. Promotion of common soldiers, instead of being a long deferred, grudgingly awarded prize, is almost a matter of brisk routine. The commissioned officers are mot | merely willing to raise men from the ranks, they are passing an X-ray are patting on khaki and blue for their country. Are wome: | willing to leave off corsets? | To the long list of things we have been asked to give up for) reasons of patriotism—sugar, fats, beefsteak, all-wool suits, high boote— | mast we add what many a woman considers the most essential portion of | her costume, the corset? It is a commonplace of the fashion magazines that “a well-made, well-fitting cor- eet is the foundation upon which the superstructure | of smart dressing must be reared.” And yet, with the announcement of the War Industries Board that all The crowns of the old Service hats are being used beneath the Bi ae Hyelaaets are pretty Seats, | | material goes to th tee of manufacture Aa = protest with tho War Board. But the real decision rests with American ‘women. Are they ready to make a free-will offering of their corsets for the duration of the war? available steel must be used for ships and other purposes, the corset would seem to be placed upon the | list of non-essentials. | Steel experts say that a large proportion of their r ¢ corset manufacturer. A commit-! ra naturally enough has entered a Of course I may be a bit prejudiced fm believing that the sacrifice will be mace if it is found necessary, becaus® I personally should be thankful to|! have a patriotic alfbi for those instru- |* ments of torture which I am com- pelled to wear. I don't think there fs any defense for the corset—except, of course, the well nigh unshakable bulwark of custom. But in the in- terests of fairness, and also of science, I asked a well known woman phyai- cian, Dr. Mary Halton of No, 17 Bast Mth Street if women should and ould give up their corsets for their country. “Women.” said Dr. Halton, “not nly can but ought to give up corset steel, both for their own welfare and for that of the country. If women ‘would make this sacrifice they and their children would be healthier.” “Ot course doctors have told wom- em that for years," I said. “Why has it never taken effect?” “The reason is not simply feminine vanity,” Dr. Halton declared earnes:- ly. “There ts a real and legitimate explanation of the feminine attach- " ment to the corset. As women are ‘rought up to-day, they do need sup- port of some kind—although it nesd not be and indeed should not be steel support. The clastic corset answers every purpose of healtb, propria'y anc even patriotism. “It is a scientific fact that a woman, particularly after she has borne a child, needs either intra- @bdominal or extra-abdominal #up- port. If she has the right sort of muscles they will answer the need. But she hasn't such muse! ., in most instances. Therefore, if she does not wear a corset of some sort she is very uncomfortable and is likely to need medical attention, even surgical attention, before long. “The worst corset in the world ts the one we put on babies!" Dr, Hal- ton exclaimed vebemently. “The Ught band which thousands of mothers all over the country are winding about the tender little abdomens of their infants is’ the cause of the flubby~ muscled, weak-backed woman, who must wear an elastic corset if she is to keep well. The baby’s corset, too, interferes with its natural abdominal breathing, and frequently results in tuberculosis later in life, “If children’s bodies were loft free to develop, from birth, and if girls bad proper athictic training, they would need no exterior support, But those ‘ifs’ do Gol malerialize for the great majority of women. “The steel corset, especially when tightly laced, weakens a woman's t A Century of Light. ROM 1815 to 185, sperm ofl and candles, average home used 25 candle hours per night, or 9,000} per annum—cost $23. 1855 to 1865, kerosene introduced ‘with 50 per cent. more light, same cost of $22. 1865 to 1875, kerosene ana gas—aver- age household used 20,000 to 88,000 candle bours—cost $3 to $4. 1875 to 1685, kerosene reduced to 22. & gallon, gas to $2 per 1,000 cutic fort.; average family used 76,000 c. p. hours per year—oost $30. ‘18% to 1906, kerosene disappearing— @ectricity and Welsbach gas mantle @oming in, 200,000 c. p, hours average family used per year—cost $20, 1905 to 1915, average gus c. p. hours, 00,000. Averege electric c. p. homrs, 193,000 (dme to seving § thromgh a@witches)—cost $15 Maximum light now of average fam- Wes, 360 candies, or about 18 times that of a century age. muscles instead of supporting thom. | It also wives an unnaturally distorted and Grotesque figure.” should be willing to give it up?” I asked. @n elastic corset and experienced its| comfort will be unwilling to go back | “Only, of course, a campaign of edu- cation is necessary to take women out of their cages. One argument which is going to be effective in many cases is the new work which women are doing.” wearing corsets,” I remarked. have found that they cannot per- form that labor with ail the bending, stooping and reaching movements if they are encased in steel.” ton. |may become porters and shipyard workers, have free movements and comfort- able clothing. duce’ women too, and a dread of fat ig one reason for the past popularity of the corset. tiful, ported by an elastic corset but not twisted out of shape by a steel cor- set, is charming to look at. from the viewpoints both of health and sesthetics, thing for the cate the corset steels.” ever, do not agree that the modern woman will give up her steel without @ murmur. is going to do,” declared C. B, Johnes of the Benjamin-Johnes Corset Com- pany, New York and Newark, “but I do know what the women are going wearing corsets, real corsets with stee] stays they will wear rag corsets, | ket, and hasn't been for years,” do- jcent., says the Electrical Experiment- |less than 3 per cent. of what it was in interferes with her breath- It is as ugly as Satan,” the doc- added with conviction, “and ng or “Then don't you think women) “I think any woman who has worn | o the other kind,” she replied. | “Women on the farms are not “They “Of course not,” agreed Dr. Hal- “And women who work for ‘ailroads and who, just a little later, like English women, must The work will ‘re- A woman with a beau- supple, natural figure, sup- Really, it would be a good ‘ar Board to confis- ‘The corset manufacturers, how- “I don't know what the War Board to do, They are going to keep on If they can’t get You might as wel! try to take a woman's baby away from her as her corset.” “But if the War Board does rule you cannot continue to use steel in the manufacture of corsets, couldn't you go back to whalebone or find some other substitute.” Mr. Johnes was asked. ‘There is no whalebone on the mar- clared the corset manufacturer, “And as to some other substitute for steel in the making of corsets, there is none.” er. Expressed another way, the cost of lighting per unit candle hour is the first half of the period. _ JOHNNY'S MANNERS. HERE the carefully trained child learns bad mannérs is a standing mystery to its watchful parents, These anxious rearers of the young are often beard Propounding this query, but generally without result Once in a while, however, out of the deep silence comes an illuminating answer, Jobnny furnished one just the other day. He had just finished a particu- larly toothsome dish of apple pud- ding, which he ate to the last morsel. Then, despite the fact that there was |company at the table he deliberately picked clean, “Johnny!” exclaimed his mother, up his saucer and licked it ‘With increase of 1700 per cent. in @mount of night lighting, reduction in elie Your's Lebting 1y about 10.per after a horrified gasp, “who did you ever seo do @ thing like that?* “Dosa.” replied Jobnny.—Lite, helmets. peek at the new bonnets, 4 And the} hol water inthem too, if you dont Stop ‘en. a Dame Rumor Chatters Garrulous Old Girl, Cynic and Trouble-Maker, Unburdens Her Mind on Every Conceivable Topic Under the Sun From New York to Siberia and Back Again—She Scintillatingly Gossips About Prohibition, the Ex-Czar, the Klown Prince and Other Unpleasant Subjects the Tired People Would Like to Dodge but Can’t—And This Is What She Says: BY ARTHUR (“BUGS”) BAER Copyright, 1918, by the Press Publishing Ca, (The New York Evening World.) T ex-Czar Nicholas was bumped off by the Bullsherwhiskers, Now he is very ex. That America will soon be drier than a covered bridge. That the only thing some city birds grow in their war gardens is round shouldered. That @ hungry Berliner bit a whiskbroom out of a has, boy's hand and was fined four tons of lron Krosses, That haircuts will soon cost fifty cents a throw, which is # terrific overcharge Thare ain't that much hair ip the world, ‘That night lettergrams have to be transported by railroad because the wires make ‘em dizay. ‘That the Italians chased the Austrians so far that they stepped on eome af Doc Cook's gumdrops. That a boat was built and launched so fast in Philadelphia that they ran the propellors for 900 miles on the steam mae by the hot rivets swatting the cold Atlantic, A U. S. marine might not be as old as the dearknoh op the Ark, Dut he is \ont as tough. Yea bo. ‘That Austria is kaputt. Which ts a Siamoose translation of the Wallawalla interpretation of the Zamgazsiam rendering of the Manchoorian equivalent of the Zabblandux expression “zamm.” Which is the noise a soggy doughnut makes when it drops in a dish of hot fat. That the Bulisherwhiskers are torturing their captives with soap. That the old stall of buttering the inside of the oan to fool the bartender will soon be a.lost-art, That the Klown Prince's iron than in 1914, 8 derby is now fourteen sizes smaller That nothing can cance! a Thrift Stamp. to be reminded that the instrument was not only invented but has been perfected in this country, the honor for present day marvels in long distance and wireless speech be- longs to Dr, John J, Carty, Colonel in the United States Army Signal Corps and Chief Engineer of the American Telephone and Telegraph Company, to whom was recently awarded the son medal in recognition of dis ser- of telephone engineering. ‘The medal, one of the highest hon- ors in the elestrical field, was founded in 1904 by the Edison Medal Associa~ tion, composed of friends of Thomas A. Edison, and is awarded annually by a committee of twenty-four mem- vers of the American Institute of Blectrical Engineers. Col, Carty modestly gives credit for American telephone achievements to engineers associated with him in the Bell system. vices in developing the science and art Years ago, when gage was sent fr Eph \Col. Carty Proved to German Experts jhim. INrmly believing that Yankee | ingenuity was more than equal to} Muctr of| the task, he declined and gathered | |about him graduates of a hundred of our univeraitias, ful was their work, comments the Plectrical Experimenter, and when | War came and its vital Importance to \army and navy demanded that only Americans man the telephone he #as able to announce that not one alien enemy was included among his staff. Eye trouble made it impossible for Col. Carty to prepare for the entrance examinations to Harvard, so at the age of cighteen he entered the tele- | phone service. was Chief Engineer of the New York | Telephone Company. He successively ‘overcame many difficulties, including the use of underground cables; opened he first transcontinental line in 1914, Jand in 1915 performed his crowning |naversacks, &c. One department feat, By wireless telephony a mes- Brilliantly euccess- | Ten years later he ‘agmington to the plant just as well be John of New York as of | London—he insisted on beginning at the foot in the army, although hoe Was doing Government work which would |have been a perfectly good alib! for jhis absence from the front. “You'll | find military life a great change,” the |kindly recruiting officer warns him, |"but I think you'll be sensible enough to accommodate yourself to your new surroundings. “The best advice I can give you is to do as you're told without arguing, Lots of things are said and done in the army which seem to be all d-— nonsense to the civilian, but as time goes on you'll find out the reasons for them. The rules and regulations are all based on years of experience, and \if you do your duty by the army you'll | find it'll do its duty by you, I'm tell- ing you this because you're a man of education and intelligence. Some peo- ple think the army's @ sort of glorified jconvict establishment; it’s not. It's got no use for criminals. What it wants is smart, keen men, who can realize that discipline doesn’t mean slavery. In a certain army we know the motto is ‘Blind Obedience.’ In ours it's ‘Live Intelligence.’ John goes to camp, “learning how to stand straight up and to look to his front though the heavens fell or a real General passed by; bow to galute without knocking his cap off; to an- |swer questions without moving his hands as well as his tongue." Also at | his Grst inspection he receives another compressed tablet of soldierly wisdom worth remembering by the American | rookie, | “When I was in the ranks," John's |Second Lieutenant tells him, “our |crowd was inspected by a famous |General, When he'd looked at every badge and button he said, ‘Lads, re- member that the biggest dandy makes the best soldier!’ What he meant was that the man who takes 4 pride in himself and keeps himself smart whether he’s on parade or square-pushing round the town— that man’s going to be the fellow you can rely on when the bother happens. Cleaning buttons may seem all damn nonsense to a man who's come out to fight for his country, but it's not, It's just one of the little things that help to make up the big things—and the big thing’ll come along fast enough, don't you worry,’” John gets the credit for winning the first sham battle between the pla- toons of his company, Detailed as a scout and stealing off “with what he felt to be an excellent imitation of the catlike tread of one of Feni- more Cooper's Red Indians,” he tum- bles head over heels into a hidden ravine, from which, following his suggestion to the Captain, John and ies ” — P Own Telephones essful surprise attack upon the © Americans, the greatest Usera) ship in science, he was urged to im- | “enemy.” AP of the telephone in the world, it! port some of the Teutonic experts to} The next step in his progress makes will bring patriotic satisfaction help solve the problems confronting | him a Lance Corporal Not long after | glance over the ranks continually, in hopes of discovering officer material. “Napoleon stated that every private soldier carried a Marshal's baton in his knapsack—which must have added an additional worry to the troops’ burden on kit inspection days,” whimsically comments Capt. Grierson, \“In the British Army there {s more than one distinguished General who | commenced his military career with a rifle on the shoulder that to-day, | bears the little golden crossed swords and crown.” why the same thing should not be true of our National Army. | But to return to John—who might EIeS There is no reasom [he is recommended for a commission, and this ls what he is told by the Gem eral who sends his name forward for “the single star’: “Some young men think an officer has a good time—does what ho dikes— is a sort of superior betng, in fect That's not so, An officers a soldier, first, last and all the time. If he’s not, he's no good to anybody. It's tie business to set an example of sobriety, Punctuality and good disctpline to tis men; to see to their comfort before he thinks of his own, and to show them that be knows his job. If his mem know their officer can fire a rifle as well as talk about it, use a bayonet, throw a bomb—in fact, if they he's a real, live soldier, they’ him to hel “When you get Your star, remember your days in the ranks, and treat your men a8 you like to be treated now, And always keop your eye on the mam above you; he may go under, and you want to be able.to Gl his plage, if need be. Carry on.” Far from being jealous of his suo cess, John’s comrades in the ranks sive him a most glorious “G. and Fk. O." (gay and festive occasion) be- fore he goes off to the cadet echool, ¢. sort of British Plattsburg, where he is to learn the business of being an of ficer. There are remarkable “eata,” and spe es more sincere, if less pol- ished, than the usual flow of aftem= dinner oratory. At his cadet schoo! John learne.ail over again the drills and parades from the point of view of the offieer who leads and commands, instead of the private who follows. “Our sea- tine {5 simple,” the Commandant blandly informs him. “It consiste-og work, more work, and then @ bet more work.” He studies trench work, map reading, camp sanitation, amt tary law and procedure, discipline, night operations. “The people here are practical,” he writes enthustemth. cally to the Girl at Home. “Theywdontt just tell you that a thing is so; they explain why it is so. I often thinks of my school days and wonder why om earth the educational euthorities don't teach the kids as we are teugtst here. The principle our instrectous work on is to teach—that fa, to ees that the fellows understand thets work; not merely to spend @ certats number of hours every day tn grind ing out @ sort of parrot knowledge and leave the rest to chance” And of course he wins ‘his commute. sion. For he is indeed what hs Gap. tain calls “the right sort; the sort of man who learns his job and does 4 who's not ashamed to be keen emf smart and proud of bis corpa.” I told you John's sort was not-aip ferent from ours; [ am\sure you ar fitting his definition to the séldier you know best. Speed them both on theta patriotic progress! “The Single Star" is published by George H. Doran Company. VERY means possible ts being | employed to simplify the con- | struction of the mammoth crd- nance base depot which our Govern- ment is now building in France. The group of structures will cover about 100 acres, and to build them will re- quire 18,000 tons of structural steel all of which must be shipped from the United States, For the most part the structural steel members will be of uniform size and interchangeable, and bolted instead of riveted connections will be used, says Popular Mechanics. In tho plant will be facilitixs for boring out and relining the biggest field and siege guns, and howitzers, land also for repa.ring rifles, bayonets, | {machine guns, _ pisto! Will be used in overhauling a Enormous Base in France canteens, | Notorious hou to Do Our Repair Work. Living accommodations will alaodbev to be provided for the thousand. Workers, WHAT MIKE MEANT, N Indianapolis lives a young. we man of wealth and philanthropiy inclinations who has founded 4 club of street urchins. One Sunday evening she Invited three of the mem bers to be her guests at her home The youngsters asked to be takes over the place. Their eyes grew big ger and bigger with adimration Finally the smallest of the trio contain himself no and burst forth “Honest to Gawd, this is the IT ever wus int” longer, "Why, Mike," asked his by “what do you’ mean” “Beautiful! Jest beamtiturt te.