The evening world. Newspaper, October 17, 1916, Page 15

ceeeeellinion “diteiadnet.cheaendaetaneniamenen cama = What You Should Know About Your Shoes Good Footwear at Moderate By James } HOLESALE prices on foot- woar have been advanced 60 to 75 cents @ pair,” says @ despatch to-day, which means that ail of us must pay more for shoes. This increase marks the ratsing of another stone in the price pyramid that has affected every article of dreas—none more so than shoes—and outweighs advantages derived from he invention of miracle-working ma- hinery. The manufacturers contend that war conditions are the direct doubtedly have had an influence upon the scarcity of materials, The first step toward the production of machine-made shoes wos taken by Thomas Saint, an Englishman, in ‘ehine that embraced all of the prin- cipal faeas later developed to such high efficiency. It was soon found that his invention would atitch leather as well as cloth, and the machine was ted to some extent by ehoemak- ers for simple operations hitherto done by hand, But it was a very dif- erent and difficult matter to tind a device that would stitch acies and up- pers together, Nothing of importance ‘was accomplished until 1858, when Ly- man R. Blake, an American, patented machine for that purpose. From | hat time onward almost every im- rovement in the manufacture of ma- Shine-made shoes has been the result ff American inventive genius, until ‘even the smallest details of shoomak- » ‘ing are executed by mechanical A half century before, David Meade jolph, another American, had pat- nted a machine In 1809 that attached jeoles to uppers by the use of little nails, This proved to be a success and was followed by machines which acoomplished the same thing in a ‘lightly different way, being operated with @ continuous coll of brass wi which was driven through the edges. : a Pretty Suits Seen ~ In the Shops eee A {s the predominance of ono- piece dresses and coats, This ts largely due to trade disturbances end European conditions and so, for this season at least, dresses und coats will be favored, y This is gratifying to the home @ressmaker. She can make up severai pretty dresses to wear under one feoat and obtain the change that is jMe. average woman's desire. 4 The i with dresses ions for development. lo points are that the t ite proper position ‘\and the ekirt is slightly lengthened, in dreas-up frocks the sleev jer—both the bishop puff effect boing favored. FEATURDS of the fall displays “WY ming embroidery is largely Much of this is done in the metal threads, Gold, silver and tinge! aro Javiehly used and fur {s much in ev dence, mostly as bandings on skirts. A pretty one-piece dress in gr elvet has a deep band of gray | dged at the top with dull metallic imming. An moon gown of rgundy velvet has bandings of mole ending around the skirt between knee and lower edge, A brick lor velour suit looked smart with 8 trimming of Hudson seal. A pretty savy blue velvet striped satin has he tunic bordered with gray fox. Braiding is seen on many costumes. wine color charmeuse has elaborate braiding on the bodice, one fash- i$ care girdle and r embroidery, A blue velvet skirt has a white vel- wet basque embroidered in blue silk. rhia model has the skirt and basque tT with gray fur. gray broadc'oth has an affective mbroidery done in blue and s!lver dance frock in raven blue velvet as the round neck and arm hole reninge edged with rows of white t, and a charming dress in rose ousseline de sole has a deen gath- ‘ed guimpe of blue tulle. The bod- which is a mere corselet, is of Iver cloth overlaid with rose mous- ‘ine de sote, With the popularity of the separate oat there 1s a strong demand for the epararte #kirt. These are ideal for ractical wear and the shops are Hhowing a varied assortment of skirts ‘o stripes and plaids as well as plain materials, The checks and plaids are especially favore They are made along smart lines and large hone but- tons constitute the trimming. oe Py $ Woman Led Reforms HE first of the modern prison re- formers to gain real results in the ameloration.of conditions under ehich convicts live was a woman, Irs, Elizabeth Fry, who died at tamsgate, England, seventy-one ears ago. John Howard and many ‘other philanthropists in Europe and America had previously agitated prison reforms of various kinds, put their labors were practically fruit- less, and Mrs, Fry waa tho first to “get real resi She became inter- . ested in the work tn 1818, aa the © Vesult of a visit paid to Nowgate. Her compassionate Quaker heart was filled with pity at tha sad state of the inmates, especially the women prix- ee NeTS. is Was the ca PE tablishment of a school for the women convicts, Other reforms fol- Jowed, and Newgate, thanks to her fforts soon underwent a marked change. She then extended her field of activities to other prisons, and her influence was felt not alone tn Eng- jand, but in Europe and America, ause of high prices, and these un-| 1790, when he patented a sewing ma-) | Cost, Made Possible by Ma- chinery, Disappears as Prices Rise. C. Young. | of tho solo and “bitten off” auto-| matically, Neher the shoe-nalling nor the shoe-sewing machine was completely satisfactory. They were used because there* was nothing better to be had. That was the situation in 1862 when August Destory obtained a patent \upon a curved-needle machine de- | signed to sew outsoles to shoe uppers. | It was moderately successful and at- tracted the attention of Charles Good- year, son of the man who mae ind. rubber a world necessity. Together they perfected the machine and the famous Goodyear welt was introduced |to the shoe trade. It was a lockstitch | device that fastened uppers and soles together as one and solved for all time the problem that had bothered the In- dustry for many years. Since then shoe machinery has been developed to @ point that probably is | unequa 1 in any other trade, There is » © be not a single operation in the manufacture of shoes that cannot be accomplished mechanically. The modern process of shoe production consists simply of the cutting of ahoes upon 4 certain model and turning the material over to operators on different machines. But this seeming indus- | trial perfection has not been an un- mixed blessing, It has resulted tn the manufacture of almost the whole of the world’s shoes upon set lines. ‘Tho manufacturers are the style arbiters, | and more often than not “styles” are in direct opposition to anatomical | principles. Which means that we must fit our feet to the shoes that the makers give us or go unshod. So wo wear queer shapes of footwear and! suffer broken atehes, cramped ¢ i and blistered feet, Shoes were one of the first things | that man set out to make for himself, | Tho roots and stones hurt lis fect, | jand he tied a plece of stout skin to! the bottom of his foot. Then e | one conceived the idea that a cover-| ing for the foot would keep out the jcold, which brought an extension of | | the hide to the ankles, the whole be- ng fastened with a thong. After a| time sandals came into use, the sole! being heavier than the upper, ‘Then | the wooden shoe, cut out of one block | of wood, was introduced, It still is used largely among the peasants of | rope, and for many kinds of work is preferable to leather, being mots- ture proof. “Rubbers," as Americans have named them, were the invention of Charles Goodyear, father of the man who helped produce the Goodyear welt machine, In 1838 it was found that indiarubber, dissolved in. tur- pentine and mixed with lampblack, would give a waterproof surface to leather. But the leather. so treated Was subject to atmospheric changes, heat causing it to melt and cold to, crack, Mr. Goodyear mixed sulphur with the other combination and pro- duced rubbers, THE DEATH THOUGHT eens BEST NOVELS OF THE DAY PUBLISHED ON THIB8 PAGE, COMPLETE EVERY Two WEEKS. —— (Copyright, 1018, by Street & smith.) DING INSTALMENT. of Lotta Cameron, once Use pus: fortune. te found ih the wiver, aap. of drvwting. Feaningtoo “id man and former hia niece, 9 he CHAPTER I. (Continued,) ‘Found Drowrned.” ELL,” said O'Connor, some- what cooled, “I'm going to start something just as soon as I get a report on this Pennington Tyler. And in the meantime I'll have the body removed to a private under- jtaking establishment. There must | be some rolattves somewhere who jean take care of it. Depend on it, this.ds going to be a plain case of graft, and murder to cover it. | Good night. I'll keep you in touch | with anything that develops.” | Kennedy had been working at his laboratory table when O'Connor and his operative came in, He was now clearing it up @ bit, and sotting some of his paraphernalia in order as they left. “You're not through?" I asked. Ng, not yet," replied Craig, "But I haye gone far enough to discover | that there ts some poison in her |biood, Walter, what 1s your opinion jot tht report? What struck you in ier" “Well,” I answered slowly, “I sup- | pose 1 speak more as 4 newspaper 66) }man than as a detective, but that death-thought’ idea seemed — er — i} er to me.” ‘ Exactly!" erled Kennedy. “Exact- ly. ‘The death thought, Now, what does that mean? Her friends seem to be convineed that she believed in it, al least, Sbe went away to escape it) and came back, without Aping it, Then she wes feund in the river This is how it hae all ended “The question is: What power was lit? Was it hypnotism, mesmerism? | What does it all mean? I hope you won't be offended if I ask you to |leave me alone for the rest of the jevening. I ghall need to think this thing out.” | CHAPTER I. The Dream Doctor. ENNEDY'S thinking and a night's reat had not served to clear up the mystery, a Kennedy had evidently laid | out in his mind a plan of action, but was waiting to hear from + Why Yes Maw, 1AM VERY ECONOMICAL - | TooK A COURSE IN DOMESTIC \ CONOMY s—~Y ) You CAN'T c NO, EGGS ARE 0 HIGH WE CAN'T USE CH N as No, WE WON'T HAVE A SALAD, IT's Too HIGH SUE PAPE USING PLENTY oF O'Connor regarding Pennington Ty- ler, In the meantime he sauntered “Is that eo?" he remarked as she over early to the laboratory and 1 paused. ‘And who accompanied him, having arranged magician who has 40 with the Star to take the Cameron case as a special assignment, He had scarcely donned his frayed and acid- Stained laboratory coat when we beard a smart tap at the door, “Answer it, please, Waiter,” asked Craig, “and if it ts one of the students tell him | can’t see him to-day, Instead of a student, however, 1 found two ladies. One—who appeared to be the spokesman—was a middie- aged woman, plainly, but attractively, dresaed in gray, a quiet, medium-sized unassuming woman, but with a per- Sonality that showed forth attractive- ly. The other was a sweet, elderly woman. “You need not go, Mr. Jameson,” remarked the leader of the two as I took a step to withdraw, “You do not know me, but you wee that I have heard of both you and Prof. Kennedy, Prof, Kennedy? Good morning, sir, I think I have a case for you. My name js Mrs. Frances McNeill, and £ am a detective employed on sppcial, work by the police department of the city to run down fakes of varioug sorts.” At another time I should have been more than interested in lisiening to Mrs, McNeill, of whose work I had often heard, But just at present it seemed rather unfortunate that 80 baffling @ case should be obscured by any other. “L may say," began Mra, MoNeill, with directnoss, “that I have been em ployed for some ume in running down various healers, fortune tellers, crys! g&zers, and psychics of various sorts, #0 that I might be said lo be somowhat of an expert in that phase of life. And an important phase it ts even in these times. Why, 1 suppose that I am one of the most doctored human you” pose, for it sort of well, that ‘falla for’ than for a man tor's dosk. minute. reasonable expense. that sort of thing. seem to them. of fakers.”” “He conducts his the interesting terego. name persons who seck his ady! belngs allve.”” BF shape “You heartily look ft,” smiled Ken- Of @very nature, from per business to love and ¢ “Well, you see, I have taken pills . “What is Alterego's ga not to live, but for @ living. 1 bave taken treatments of every variety— ‘prayer plasters,’ vinegar bathe for beautifying—in fact, all sorta of medical as well as psychical fakes, I have been baked, frozen, hypnotized, magnetized, beautified by all sorta of ‘paths’ and ‘ists,’ and—well, I've come through them all without anything asked Craig. Dits of legerdemain, and supernatural powers. 1 CAN MAKE A NICE ceTruce SALAD OUT OF TIS IN THE DRESSING mo vorce,” mu? & new client of their pos Then procesd to work him, For | Evening World Daily N\dgazine Tuesday, October 17, 1916 amet cata, BE ( TOO ECONOMICAL Pate EB G0 ‘ oF UP AW THE TIME be ii vies AN | USE THESE. ) ae ») BNING BALLS ? OPPED oP N BEY MARE RINE SOMOS, RAMB BY ARUC MAM , CAN | USE THIS OLD ROPE 7 warn PLENTY OF CHEESE’ AND SAUCE | DISH OF SPaaHE AN | USE THIS OLD ® ONGE TO NAKE A eer STEw ? ('LL use NTY_oF Reb PEPPER INTHE SAUCE To KILL THE TASTE GE By Maurice Ketten OM MAKE NTO Ne TT N ECONDMICAL Go AHEAD, TRY BC magic It surely must be in this case.” is this modern impressed “There is in New York,” she re- sumed thoughtfully, “a certain pro- fessor who conducts a psychic col- lege at which there are always @ number of students receiving Instruc- tion nearly every night in the week. Not long ago one of the inspe called me into his oMce and asked me if I had ever heard of him. I bad not, which was all the better, | sup- was not likely would know anything about me. And faker always & woman dupe quicker I imagine that is why I have bad such great success in rounding some of them looked over a letter on the inspec- I'm coming to that in @ He told me to go ahead and investigate, get the evidence, and tf the case warranted it to spare no I did so. up for the part as a wealthy widow in love with a noted doctor, and all I have been on the trail of the fellow for a week, have almost succeeded in being en- rolled in the school, only to tind that I 4m constantly put off reason, though I know they do not suspect me yet of being other than I But [ have seen enough to convince me that this fel- jJow is either genuine or else the king up. “What Ja the name of this interest- | ing psychic?” asked Kennedy. establishment and the ‘college,’ ag he calls it, under of Prot, He has, besides the school where he teaches his system, @ large clientele of fashionable and wealthy on affairs ny and “In ordinary cases,” expinined Mra, MoNeill, “they do one or two simple convince ession of they will tance, 60 that he I made for some Al- What, for instunce, have you seen him do?” Craig Kennedy at His Best—Begin it To-Day they will predict that financial euc- cess is to come to the person through a stock deal, Then they will work some ewindle or other, The bulk of the clients, however, are women who consult them in fove affairs, That's whore the ‘love pill’ and ‘love philter’ come in, They are very rare, have to be imported from India, and all that, and cost whatever the victim looks able to pay, from two dollars to two hundred. I can buy all I want, with mysterious wrappers and all the oc- cult fixings, In a place downtown for five cents apiece. Then there ts the warning of an evil Influence and warding it off, incense aticks, charma, and all that. I @uppose you are ac- quainted with that kind of faker— you must be. Well, Alterego goes way beyond that, He is up to the minute, if not a iittle ahead of it, He does the old things, but in such @ new way that it is enough to take your breatn away, Now, for one thing, he poses as & modern ecientife dream doctor, There is one case of @ young married woman which seems to me to be the most baffling of all, She is Mrs, Marian Douglass, the daugbter of this lady who accompanies me. Let me introduce Mrs, Colton, the writer of the letter which first brought Alterego to the attention of the police.” I turned quickly, Was there to bo no end to the surprises and coincl- dences in this adventure? “Marian Douglass!" erled Kennedy “The cousin of Lotta Cameron, whose body was found In the river yester- day! Mrs. Colton, 1 do not know what you and Mra, MeNelll are going to ask mo to do, but believe me before you begin that [ shall do all in my power to help you.” The elderly lady bestowed a look of gratitude on bim. “As you already doubtless know,” Mra, Coiton said softly, “sho was Miss Marian Colton before her marriage to Sidaey Doug- lass, My husband, her ner, died several years ago. He was, you know, the heir of tho largest part of the old Colton estate and he left his money to Martan, our only child, in trust until my death. Martan has a considerable income from the estate, and her busbaod is a lawyer with & very good practice, One thing worrles me 4 “reat deal ts the coc except a wholesome fear of some of those electric appliances in the handy of the ignorant and careless, But I have come at last to a case which I find is completely beyond me, Indeed, you may not believe tt, but if there ie anything at all in this modern ¢ @ HANDICAPPED 4 By Jackson Gregory The Story of a Tenderfoot Who Made Good Begins in The Evening World Oct. 30 ness that seems to have aprung up lately between my daughter and her husband. I have hinted at it, but she turns it off, and I am sure be would deny tt as well, Stl I can see that (here 1s some kind of estrangement, and that it is growing slowly. “More than that, though, my da * ter seems to me at times to be in a state of fear bordering on panic. 1 bave asked her about that, but she will say nothing,” None of her friends seems to know Just what haa caused the change in her, I fear very much that it Is like the malevolunt mental influence which we observed tp Lotta when she was slowly losing her money, though whether Marian is !os- ing money I cannot say. She couldn't lose much, for, as I sald, the bulk of her fortune ts ted up in the trust fund.” Kennedy turned quickly to Mra. Me- Neill, “Is Marian Douglass @ student atthia psychic college of Prof. Al- terega?” he asked Mra. MoNeill nodded assent. “Ye she answered; “and this much I have learned: Tho reason for Mra. Doug- lnan’s first vistt"—— “One moment, ple: he tnter- rupted, “Had Lotta Cameron been one of those pupils also at any time in the past?” I began to see why Craig was |isten- ing #0 patiently. Here, most unexpect- edly, a clue was turning up that prom- ised some ight on the case. Mrs. MeNelll turned to Mra Colton an inquiring glance. “Why, yes," the jatter replied slowly, “I believe she had several months ago. Of course, my daughter and her cousin did not see a reat deal of each other. They moved in different circles. But now that 1 come to think of it, 1 do recall Marian's eaying some time ago that she moet Lotta, though she didn't say where. It must have been about the time that, as I afterward found out, Marian began to consult this Prof, Alterego.” We shall do our best, and quick- ly.” reassured Kennedy, Then, ad- dressing Mrs, McNeill, he added, “You wore about to tell us something about Marian Douglass when I interrupted with a question about Miss Cameron, hat was it?" This much T have learned, re- sumed the woman detective, “and I have already told it to Mra Colton. though It conveys no idea to either of us. There is one of Alterego's siu- jents, Miss Mary Brownlow, from whom I le ved that on one of Mra. Dourla rs nt visits she told the professor 4 dream which she had had, and which woiried her very much.” "Do you happen to know what the | Woman Her Own Handicap — | In the Difficult Struggle .. For a Business Career | | She Must Go Into It in a Cold-Blooded Way, Same : as Men, in Order to Win, Says Miss Eleanor 4 Gilbert, Student of Working Women— Trouble Is, They Consider Business a al | By Marguerite Mooere Marshall. | "The chief obstacle to the success of the businces woman,” obacrved Mies Eleanor Gilbert, “la that she never be- Neves ahe ia in business to stay, until after ahe ia thirty.” Mins Gilbert bas Just published a clearly written and moat practi-| eal volume, eo-) utled “The Am- bitious Woman in Business.” | And it was that Mdentical person whom we were! discussing at the Women's eny Club yesterday afternoon, Tem- porarily, we were shelving the more obvious and more frequently dis cussed problems of the business woman—why she works, what #he weara to work, whether she sho marry. I had asked Miss Gilbert to answer the question most Important to the ambitious woman in the busl- nose world; the question of her ever rising to a really big position, one which {a not merely well: patd but which carries with it responsibility, dignity, power. “Are not women capable of filling such positions?” | questioned. “And is there any truth In the deep-seated conviction of many women that their nex must forever be a handicap in the Stop-Gap to Fill in the Time Until » They Are Married and Supported. oontiun il ow & ne . a now . % ELEANOR GILBERT e stop work—for HE will come along to marry and su “Of course, there are exceptions to |" thi general rule, There are women — iia who love work and who would never dream of giving it up, even if they should marry, Hut most young women + who enter the business world do not | aj feel, as do young men, that they are a1 there for life, Girle are not brought : up with that point of view. i" inis is how I heard an employer 0 Answer the accusation that he would not promote & woman to a ponition of . #reat responsibility because she was = ** a woman. ‘It's true’ he sald. ‘T business world; that, because they are women, men wil} not give them the big, worth-while jobs?” WHY THE “BUSINESS WOMAN” FAILS, “It is true that there ie a preju- d against advancing women to the most important poste,” ad- mitted Mise Gilbert. “But | be. lieve that the reason for thi prejudice lies in the point of view of the average woman who work: Somowhere in the background of her mind, be she never eo intelli- gent or conacientious, there is the thought, ‘Some time—maybe next year—i oan give up all this, | can By Arthur B. Reeve dream was about?” asked Kennedy. “Y the student told me of it. TI don't know how she found it out, un- less Mra. Douglass told her herself. But it wae @ very peculiar dream-— or, rather, as nearly as I can make out, two dreams that merged Into one. In one of thom Mrs. Douglass dreamed that she went out to dinner and after- ward to the theatre with a man who was not her husband. There is no description of who this man was—he seems to have been fust one of those hazy dream personages, as nearly os Mixs Brownlow knew. At any rate, while she was at the theatre @ me wenger boy found her In that incom- prehensible way that people have of finding you in dreams. When she tore open the moasage, it proved to be from her husband, saying that her|'marry, and every mai mother had died very suddenly. “And then what?” he asked Mra MoNeill, “Well, Instead of feeling grief at the loas, she crumpled up the note and sat through the play with her com- panion, After that they wont to a cabaret show. All of a sudden the dream seomed to change, or, rather, to merge into a second dream. In- stead of the cabaret show, which had veolabed suddenly, she med to be alone in the gay sunlight under a clear blue sky, with trees and flowers about her, She looked up and saw a huge bull in the Meld. At precissly the moment she caught sight of it, the bull seemed to catoh sight of her, It stared at her. She turned and ran, Over her shoulder she caught « glimpse of It overtaking her. If she could only gain and crawl under or ver a fence at the end of the fleld! o ran faster. A few steps and abe would be safe, Fright put new strength into her. Sbe gained’ thy fence, seemed lightly to Jump over it, although that would have been an Impossibility in real life. Her next impression was that In Jumping over the fence whe had arrived in a huge, sunken gare in which a gardever was working, He ran toward her, It ail seemed to belong to her--the whole vast estate, including the field in whioh the bull had chased her, the garden and @ large house which ap- peared back of the trees. Every one in It was a total stranger to hor, yet {t was all hers, and tt was her ideal, Everything that she had ever wanted in her wholo lifo was there, And yet neither her husband, nor her mother, | nor any one for whom she had ever | We must begin with cared in ber life was there. All were strangers. And in the dream she was have @ stenographer who has all the qualifications of an admirable sale: manager. in fact, she probably is better Mtted for that post than any man in my employ, But why should I give her the job? In @ year or two he will come in some morning, with @ beaming farce and give me her resignation because ahe ts goin, be married.’ pibaasrigiaind “Of course men leave important positions abruptiy and even. frivo- lously.” Miss Gilbert admitted. “But in the back of the man's mind there in not that fixed that some day he | of bu who has this shadowy premonition cannot @o efficiently serve her em- ployer's interests, whatever her ina dustry and loyalty, as the man who naturally plans ahead two or five or even ten years for his own success and thm of the firm for which he works, “a long to see women go into ness take their work as ue men take | don't mean that busi- s ness women should deliberately root out all their femininity and charm. After 6 o'clock in the evening let them b . tal ani ail uw se are the men around the BUSINESS AND MARRIAGE; Vo- CATION AND AVOCATION, “Then they will be in the way of Success. Business,” she added with a candid amile, “doesn't require genius, °°! re know. Plain common eense and ermination are enough.” A man onve told me,” I ald, “that sa to succeed the woman who works- needs only three 1's--industry, in- S% elligence and initiative.” “And there was another clever man who cul the list down ta two," con- J tributed Mise Gilbert succeed and the incentive “Do you think that t wo nh should not marry I asked. think every woman ought to declared Miss Gilbert. “It's the normal life, the rich and rounded life, There is no reason why the business woman should not enjoy a happy married life, But there is every reason why sho should not give up her work for it. “Ag I woe it, this is the ideal life programme for a woman: Before marriage she should ‘a “on, demanding the highest and most serious effort toward @ big But she should practise homemaking arts a3 an avo~ cation, After marriage she should work untii bables come, when home and children will be the vocation di manding the highest efforts and co: centration. But some time shoul be devoted to premarital business in- terests, a8 an avocation, When the children are grown, complete time and attention may again be given to business. “One of the big struggles before her will be that of overcoming her e husband's prejudice against a wife who works outside fi horn A man believes he is being to @ woman when Ly waver dre chocolates, H. @ woman in this way. The other day @ man told me, epeaking of f the woman he loves and wants te ’ marry, ‘It would give me such a thrill to buy her clothes!""... ..... “That task soon ceases to thrill a husband," I commented, “But how #!4 can any woman ever endure it, who has had the clean satlefaction of aup- rth herself? Yet often ehe likns it-—fairly wallowa in being lelded’ and freed from work. To me that ts the most discouraging thing about modern women.” is lazy if he or she But everybod: | gets the chance," consoled Miss Gtl- ‘bert “Men simply haven't the temp. | tation presented to them se often “There is no physical or mental ob- stacle to prevent women from being exactly as successful in the business world as men are. The handicap Hes in the woman's own point of view, ttle girls and \teach them that when they up they must work, just as their = perfectly happy.” (To Be Continued) jere must work, for all thelr lives, ‘Then teach them to know what they want and to go after it,"