The evening world. Newspaper, February 13, 1904, Page 5

WoO RE CEPTION GOWNS ar VOILE WITH LONG SHOULDER £FFECT AND LINGERIE RUFFLE. Three Types of Skirts, the Triple, the Plaited and the Gored Circular—Some Beautiful Shades for Evening and House Attire— Alice Roosevelt’s White beather Belt—Hand- some Gowns Sport Some Gold and Silver —The Waist bine Raised a bittle. ly the middle of shi= HOUGH ft ts sca if February the thoughts of the f fonable girl have already turned to her spring outfit, and the hands of milliners and dressmakers are busied with new creations in clothes and mil- Unery to gladden the heart of the Easter belle. In tho new costumes which have been the e¥olved the 1820 fasilons strike dominant nate * the girl of to- seems to be striving to look as much Uke her grandiother as clothes can make her. Despite the fulness of this mode In skirt and waist, the aim of the fashions this season is toward slenderness and helght; the Ines are long and sweep- ing, outlining the graceful curves giv- ing elegance and dignity to the figure. mand are i selves graciously which are chiefly in de- those which lend them- to the caprices of the present fashion perfection the elaborate which the fashion world HE fabri and exhibit to trimmings {n abounds, There 1s a long, ul sweep over the shoulder, the sa high ones of seasons past being decidedly unlovely and alm omival looking to us now in their severity. ‘Tho shoulder seam Ia very long, dropping low over the curve of the arm, with the sleeve set Into the bodice several inches lower than was its wont, and a flat cape or bertha 1s often used to cover the joint ure of sleeve and blouse with excellent result, ‘The skirts In primitive form are very full and round, but so cleverly have they been designed, so magical has been thé touch, that while the fulness js all there {t does not protrude, but aldg in impressing the fazer with the exceeding beauty of the wearer's figure. The hips are accentuated by cordings of the material or by multitudinous hirrings, tucks, bands of lace or em- wroldery, whose dicta ts incontrovertible that the skirt which clears the ground, the skirt sensibly bound, will be exceedingly fashtonable. These smart walking suits are made upein light-weight materials, such as mohatrs, Wo has gone forth from those sicillennes, cheviots and other Meht welght cloth: The graceful walking suit tlustrated fis of brown panne cheviot elaborately jbraided and trimmed with white cloth and tiny gold buttons. ‘The skirt, which 1s of the popular walking length, |!s fan-plaited back and front and }trimmed with plpings of tho white cloth. ‘The bodice has a military cape shoulder effect, with collar and inserted Vest of the white cloth, which is also used tn piptn the ‘blouse and the simple coat sleeves. N the second !lustration, which shows | two receptipn gowns for spring wear, the new long’ shoulder effect 1s shown to advantage. ‘The first gown Is ef tan Sicilian, beautifully braided and trimmed with lace and buttons. Tho skirt cut In nine gores emphasized by piping of the cloth has an elaborate de- sign in silk braid appliqued at regular intervals about the hem. The waist h very long shoulder, which is ex- aggerated by applications of ctreular inch-wide satin bands simulating a. deep collar, It has’a full vest of lace and lingerie ruffles whitch alxo fall gracefully over the hands from the full sleeves ornamented with applications of the satin bands trimmed with gold but- tons. The second gown ts of vote with a deep cape narrow at the back and wid- ening tll tt droops nearly to the elbow of Tull sloeve cape is é brotdered about and trimm with ny buttor cuffs of t slenves are also ented with deep skirt is made with vo trimmed with Ungerte rutties a full simulated two bands of emb le 2 shirt walsts to be worn with the trim walking suits do not show the scvere nes of former seasons, but are elaborately decked with lace and embroidery, They are belted with the new high crush girdles and jjInished at the neck with soft, full ties of madras or silk, ‘The popularity of the high gir- dle has brought to the fore sashes which are fastened at the alde front or direct- ly in the back: they add a note of dis- tinction to a handsome gown. Black velyet ribbons from two £0 three inches wile are Ued around the walst and fall to the very edge of the train: three small bows with loofls three inches wide tened very lightly to the rib- bone at Intervals. A novel Idea 1s that there ts slight space between the rib- bons which the bows spun. [* the third illustration a very charm- ing luncheon blouse is pictured, It 1s made of and the baby waist fs shirred in clusters of horizontal ruchings and has a deep Louse OF Lil PRED CHIFFO WWD NEEDLE POUNT/APPLIQUES. deep -flounces of the lace, flounce being fitted over the two bands of shirring. waist of the la round neck w the hips h pink ribbons to fit the figure, first | medallions of heavy Russian gulpure by The simple baby » 1s trimmed about the epening slightly inter- white chiffon over silk,| twined with tiny pink rosebuds and has a high crush girdle of pink satin boned | by The elbow siceves are | irregular wite terv collar Is. The fitted bh of the same at the throat decided satlor effect and the pdified mandolins! a tight cuff of lace. |has a lace with a) t small} ves are Anished | Wil! tolerated. j colitined abo: covalier cunt to ke sleeve ntinuc 1s show th mi contry ting material or color worn iIness 1a to be strictly ow gauntlets and Ing used as the latest it In place. ‘The elbow for dinner and evening gowns in fo vor; hy slashed sleeve some very pretty with yoke embellished with exquisite needle! fashioned of a aingle flounce of Merre | sity |derneath ‘and, frequently puffed and worl and point applique. The loose | lace. Tp ga Wivinioe Burts axelaesn su i led out bee ithe slashes. ‘Thov sleeves are also shirred in bands on the | Py. cHaRacING 7 teven or eleven aren, andthe triplo | ironte tone mneven. ae upper arm and blouse over th | ING dinner gown which) |. Soenb retarene Ona ve tl DP the hand in shows the fashionable suirring [SH Combination of the triple and | Peftatencey rt a ,iong flounce edged with the needle | about thevhibells ol cae aug | the plaited or shirred skirts are popular nie I ADRSRCAOTC MATT OT sik in a shade known as mistletoe}, Witt ail the. varisty tn sleeven the | Tntest spring models. HE beautiful evening gown pletured | green, lee tea Aiea thEOmeses ce. bac daaalta OW 4s one of the de displiys one of the very latest fash- | ‘The skirt 1s oddly trimmed with three | suring. ‘The line from the eck to the Y color nutes for spring, especially jons and is made of lierre lace over | wide nun's folds from the hem to a! eliow mu in and unbroker | in the realm of evening and house Pink satin. The skirt is made of two| little below the knee and has applied | trimmlr vergical bands being lative, and some of the shades are re- an- | | | marka vorite, golden sally b bly ut pineapp yellow nocoming, ul anotl: which, hi an Banana ra while DNNER ARESS OF GREEN Slidit AND GULFORE. The Fashionable Girl Is Spring Costumes—Styles of 1880 Will Pre- vail—Glossy Fabrics Are in Demand—The — Skirt That Clears the Ground Will Be Fash- — ionable—New Shirt Waists and buncheor Blouses—Dinner Gowns. a fa-|and softness when used in many thie new not unive: exquisite glow 0O0Oo Baskets with Violet Hearts and Candy ‘Boxes Trimmed with Lavender Ribbon Are Among Cupid’s Offer- ings—Other Charming Valentines, EBRUARY 14 ts St. Valentine's Day F -in other words, the sweetherrts’ festival—and to-day young men and maidens are busied with the selection of the dainty tokens which mark its coming. . Why, St. Valentine should have be- come fie patron saint of lovers ts not known, Indeed, the selection of his feast for the celebration 1s believed to be entirely a matter of accident. Tt was a practice among the ancient Romans to celebrate in early February what were known as the Lapercalia— feasts In honor of Pan gnd Juno, dur+ ing which various interesting rites wero practised. In one of them the names of different young women were placed In ® box and were dmwn by the young men as chance directed. Thereafter, the young Woman whose name he hud drawn was considered under his special charge and protection for the year. ‘The ancient festival survived the gods tt celebrated, and became part of the yearly celebrations of the Christian world, narrowing gradually to the day in the mfddle of the month which hap- pened to be the feast of St. Valentine. ‘The hablt of choosing one’ valentine, or what nowat ays some people call P2094 90 09499$9O09O.0308 wt St. Valenting a5 Popular and { Daintily Artistic as “Ever. os Nntaining Violets > In England, Scotland’ and portions of France the custom etill survives, and many happy marringes result from courtships begun in this haphazard way. Here In America where no serious six nifleance attaches to St. Valentine's feast, young people get a great deal of jagket~ Bgex rt one's “steady,” for the year be universal among lovers the world over. | elharmless amusement from the exchung: of valentines, whether of a sentimental SASSY SUE # &° By the Creator of “Sunny Jim.” w .% She Gets a Valentine, “ "Your feet are flat, your face ts funnyt’ Back, Ww! aAnoune eye [sy orac the taste and Hable to cause fll-feeling. But the pretty valentine idea has not dactined with the decadence of the old- fushioned comic yale! the pa- per love token. mic nature, though the sending of Almost any an at Ing pretty ractive and offering fancifil for the other charming valentine consists of a basket containing a heart of vio- lets. The basket {s adorned with pale blue bowknots and has a bunch of pink jaanteas—early spring fowers-attached A idy box twined about with lavender ribbon and having lavende ribbon bows, decorated with green eaves and sprigs of “mistletoe, of St | A girl with a spirit of tun will send her fiance n small red satin painted with cupids and flowers jllea with candy, accompanied by a | lentine gotten up to look like a | traveller's trunk tag, Ono side ts dain tly little cupid with the sentiment “The rose tu red, the violet biue, Candy Is aweet, and m9 are you.”* While on the reverse side is scrawled tn red ink: “You've been tagging after mo long enough.” ’ Another suitable valentine is original conception tnclosed in a envelope entitled “Love's Marconi- gram.” ts one heart and ‘Red Heart: Station" ts printed on a| Which will be sent thelr own or their | o valentine offerings. These | “! are made of fancy heart’ field by Cupla and ‘Por, Cupid's Current, Feb, 14. double ines are: "Hearts connected at 4 moment's notlos. by our alde-glance jatter {8 aways more or less In bad | Viteatine’s most pleasing gifts. | jossed with floral designs «nd a | blue | system. Rate of payment, DPODIMHVS. As FF ae Candy Box Wined. biswender | | | | | amile.”* Girls are maki brother's one kiss per ing up dainty bags, in silks and enae violet tints thy bows sor a |s signify inotive One 0! Ponti (ne forget-me-aots fi rutions to these hiss, e nag the r with valentine f these bag: swith pate ae Nghtn Valentine Sag Containing: Box of Candy Wor. jhown in the illus olding a box of candy) 13. dec= ctl at ‘Now Thinking of Her 8 of chiffon, } ness HERE ts a slight tendency to raise the waist line a trifle, and it is noticeable more upon the gowns of | evening than upon those intended fer day. Watsts that were formerly dtawn | down In a very long and very low point are now finfshed so as to look almost | | round, and blouses that depended for their style ‘upon the front curve ame now cut off and worn slightly over hanging all around above a wide, high fitted belt or girdle. The new fancy, | belts are a Uttle to blame for the short= (ening of the waist, for they are so very, | wide and so very effective. , Miss Alice Roosevelt wore a wide whi ather belt to a recent evening j affair with a white taffeta gown, The belt was of suede, very thin and crush+ able, and Iuid around the walst In many |rolds and fastened with three white leather thongs and whiteg leather | covered buckles. OMEN cannot complain of me are as nutherous as the stylen From all indications it will certainly be | a spring of glossy stuffs, Perhaps the most striking feature of the advanced spring fashions is: the absence of the long-fitted cowt, that of half or three quarter length, which made such @& | furore this winter. ‘The fashionable n will abandon this coaty entirely {and adopt in its place the little fitted | Jac ket which comes just over the curves Jot the hips, or else one of the new Etons. I gowns which do not sport a litte gold and silver, and some are largely trimmed with it, for there are incrustations upon cuffs and ve: walst panels upon the skirt alli done by hand and made of the finest and most delicate, the thinnest, yet most brilliant of gold and silver braid, The designs are intricate and the pat- tern Is fairly stift with it. ee. | won HERE are very few handsome. For THIRTY YEARS the Standard of * at Purity and Excellence x RUNREL BROTHERS