The evening world. Newspaper, February 6, 1904, Page 5

Me y oe THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENING, FEBRUARY 6, 100 ie 4 ill HORT Round Skirts for Walking Suits —The Trotteuse Skirt May Be Two Inches Off the Ground—Great Latitude in the Designs of Sleeves—The Vogue. of the Marabout ‘Stole IS on the In- crease—Spring Styles, it Is Predicted, Will Scintillate More Elaborately with Jet Than the Winter Gowns Do Now. HESE are the new decollete frocks} silk and is trimmed about the bottom T which have just reached New| with rich lace, banded by the silk York from the Paris workroom, folde, where fertile brains and deft fingers have been busy for the last month in thelr creation. A glance at them reveals the fact that the long, drooping shoulder of 189 reigns once more, and as a result that the new evening gowns drop off the curve of the shoulder and the sleeve I» set in as low downson the arm as it can be comfprtably worn. NB of the latest developments in evening gowns is the use of tho new sheer cloths, which are so tightvand supple that,they can be knot- ted and twisted in the hands into the umallest compass and come out perfect- Jy smooth, In these gowns the frills and fluffiness which characterize the tulle and chiffon creations are gone, and therefore only the tall and stately eauty can wear them. HP second-ilustration shows a very ill smart frock of white tulle which {s mfounted over a sun-plaited skirt of white chiffon, having a Princess foundation of white peau de cygne-s which seems tp have entirely replaced taffetas as a lning or foundation silk because of its firm body and soft, drap- ing qualities, upon which Irish orochet 1s used to excellent advantage, In this instance the crochet is of very small, motif and fine pattern, which accords well with the tulle, The bebe corsage Is entirely of the Ince, blousing over » deeply boned and fitted girdle of crusben white peau de cygne, and the sleeves are simply very bouffent puffs of the tulle, with a lace frill. In accordance with the latest dicta from Paris, the skirt 1s much more elaborate than the corsage, and is very oleverly fitted around the hips by means of corded shirrings, the cords being drawn’ to fit ite figure. Half way down the groups of tiny plaited frills, each ane edgea with narrow Valenciennes, tho real lace begins, and between each group ap- pears a banding of the crochet,’ the tnls being cut away to show the plisse chir- fon beneath. OR the fluffy girl spangles of every eize, shape and variety are worn tn conjunction with tulle, point d’es~ prit or chiffon. 3 ‘The trimmings for these are quite tn] Keeping with their filmy -character. Countless little frills alternate with nuns’ folds and. taco insertions set in to ralieye the monotony of tho design. ‘These lace bands wow show only the etraight edge, the wavy patterns ‘havs been relegated by fickle fashion to limbo of things outworn, NOTHER very striking .evening Al gown pictured 1s of white chiffon, glaborately trimmed and brocaded with ribbon in a floral design, ‘The corsage 1s cut with a round neck and has a very long shoulder effect out- lined by, the ribbon embroidery, which in front widens into a deep plastron, reaching to the end of the blouse walut. ‘The sleeves are elbow puffs of chifron and there {s a deep ceinture of white loulsine which forms the foundation ot ETW ,designs in opera coats are an- other feature of the weeks's impor- tations, and one of the most charm., Ing'theatre wraps seon'in New York this (winter is shown.in the illustration. It jis of apple green silk and chiffon, or the same hue, frilled and corded ana Ince bedetked into sumptuous splendor. |'Thv coat, which has a.V-shaped open. ing at the throat, has'the shoulder lines {to almost the midale of the upper arm. \"Chis portion of it is made of shirrea ‘chiffon, trimmed at regular intervais swith nuns’ folds of the green sill, The Jong shoulder ends in a deep chiffon frill, and from beneath it wide flowing the skirt, which is embroidered with ribbon flowe! nd love-knots from mi1- flounced: bottom. T evening goyn with a skirt formea entirely of*three wide flounces ot sleeves of chiffon confined about the/and finished about ‘the bottom with a rlate with tho silk bants, trimmed in] billowy chiffon ruching), The corsage A ttom of \the coat, ‘The ‘body, with a heading of blue (gulilch is loose-itting, ts ot. Jand leave.’ With this way above the knees to the heavily HE fourth illustration. shows an lace laid over a white silk foundation re plaited flounces reaching to|is sleeveél and trimmed with a decp costume a lace hat and a sumptuous rable wrap are worn. ORN with evening gowns ts the latest colffure ornament, consisting’ of a coranet finished by a velvet bow. The one shown in the illustration is of cut steel, which encircles the hatr' knotted on top of the head, and ts fin- ished by @ bow of black velvet and a cut steel buckle, U one {s irgpressed by the latitude al- lowed, for after a few general rules have been complied with originality may have full play, A few of the rules to be observed are:| Short round skirts for watking sults; Te the development of winter modes longer fuller skirts for handsome cos- angel sleeves, witb transparencies of other, “Isn't she a peach?” And the peach heard and there was nothing’ like it—whi they are young. Consider the peach—how she grew led and Warmed by ‘This the New York stores is the way of peaches when tumes and gowns; exaggeratedly long shoulder lines and big steeves; but even these mandates, may be modificd ac- cording to the taste of the wearer. ‘The trotteuse skirt may be any length from just touching to fully two inches off the ground. While the fulness of skirts. is undenfable {t {s optional whether the fulness begins at the waist, below the curve of the hip or just above the knees, and in all cases the bouftan* effect 1s adjusted with due regerd to figure Lines, T feature of a garment, is allowed the greatest latitude in desige. Tho principal effect to be obtained 1s a long Mne from neck to elbow, and with thie ‘accomplished no Umit ts set upon oc- centricity. When the ctose, slender line of the forearm is preserved the big_puft is placed near the elbow., Some vecent models extend the fulness into some- thing akin to the leg-o'-mutton variety. ‘Then there are the bell shapes ending at the elbow with lower puffs and frills in different materials and the graceful HE sleeve, as the most distinctive Ince and chiffon beneath, while the woman bent upon eliminating entirely any connection between arm and shoul- der has her bodice and upper sleeve cut in ong thereby avoiding seams. N fabrics as in fashtons the govern- ing rules are elastic, allowing no end of individual cholce. Most of the so-called tallor-mades, however, employ mannish suitings, while for all othcr costumes soft, flexible materials are preferred. Perhaps the most striking feature which comes to us from across the water ¢s the widespread apnlication of velvet a2 a (rimming. Velvets in many Weevas~chiffon, panne, mousselin, &c., Rave had thelr own way for many montis, but thelr vogue has hitherto been for the entire costume. possess is the set of muff, neck plece and hat, all of panne or chiffon velvet the exact shade of the costume with which it 1s worn, These! Ahree-piece velvet sets are the latest gee the smartest thing one can A .ittle peach in @ warden grew. un ‘and wet by the dew, little peach it srew— making the most of HE grew and S grow till she grew up. And} constitutes beauty when she ~ had grown up she came to New York and went about among peaches ere alike. and bought unto hesbelf glad ratment such as had never been dreamed of Jn the country whence she came, and went forth upon the thor oughfares known a8 Broadway and Fitth avenue and strolled and made g00-g00 oyes till men turned and looked after her and. eaid to them- elves and to each contours, be named after ft. waid to herself that What Constitutes a Peach ? —By Nixofa Greeley-Smith. ———— nosed country child—it is a remarkable fact that all pretty girls, otherwisn peaches, are snub-nosed when they are lit- tle—to a young woman rediant with beauty and bent upon it, And then try to analyze her various |, charms and find out, ‘f you cai, exactly what makes her the peach she unquestionably 1s, It ts indeed a verz diMoult thing to do. place, no two men have exactly the same ideas as to what In the first {s @ woman and what {s one man peach is ofter another man's cabbage head. But though {t counds platitudinous to write tt, no two There are certain elustve qualitice be-| longing toeell women who belong to that most delightful ection of the vegetable world. A peach need not have regular features. Inideed, there are many classic statues famous for the smoothness of their facial and otherwise, which could not by any stretch of the imagination be classified as peaches, The most characterisco feature of the peach ts its bloom, and any woman whose eter shows the soft glow, the velvety lustre of that cholcest of fruits, may be deemed entitled to All peaches, whether fruit or woman, should be round, but not—oh, never!—fat They should be soft and moderately yielging to the touch. Whether they are dark or Might doesgft matter, for thero are connolsseurg who like elther kind or all kinds, ‘There are a hundred or so kinds of penc ones are being evolved every his play of the demt-monde, “paches a quinze sous’ at fifteen and peaches at thirty cents). Who ever saw‘an obese peach? and new ar, Alexunder"Pumas, jr, in classified them generally as ‘peches a trente sous" (peaches But that was he- and fore thirty cents became contemptuous, and the classifica: from a little snub- tion was too commercial, anyway. THE HUMAN SOAP AND SUGAR ‘FACTORY. You will probably be surprised, said aj even the least oratorical man that ever well-known professor of chemistry, when I tell you that the most beautiful woman or the most intellectual. man that ever lved {s\really nothing more than animated white of egg; and yet it is perfectly true that, {f you only knew, how to do it, you could take a few hundreds of eggs—you wouldswant, well over a thousand, bythe way—and man- ufacture a second Shakespeare or a Helen of Troy from them, If we take a 168-pound man ani de- prive him of gas and carbon there will be oply five pounds of: him left; while lived { five-sixtlis gas and nothing else, We have now only five pounds of our man'to account for, and this is dis- tributed over nine most tfeful constit- uents. ‘Two and a quarter pounds, near- ly half of it, consist of calcium, which will be more commonly recognized as lime, and which plays a very important part in the human mechantsp; to to this we must add one pound eleven ounces of phosphorus, from which, If you lke, you could make suffctent matches to give one tu every man, wom- an and child in the average jig sity, The remaining constituents of our man only weigh one pound, one ounce and consist of sodium, sulphur, fluorine, chlorine, magnesium, potassium and sil. {con; while in weight they range from two to three grains to four and a halt ounces. The body ts indeed @ most wonderful factory, carrying on a number of useful and complicated processes at the same time, ‘(hus {t makes really firat-class soap by the hundredweight for its own use, and glycerine too as a by-product it manufactures sugar from starch, an it makes gum, pepsln, alc Y pxqducta nore wonderful still —Tit-Bit Parisian craze and are dressier than fur or feathers, allowing more variety in design, trimmiugs and color scheme A set of tobacco brown fs lined with gold brocade, while about the high hat crown 1s twisted gold military cord with heavy tagselled ends swaying on the brim. Another set of the favorite marengo ‘shade shows lning of white satin, and drooping from the hat a long white’ plume. Still dressier sets for evening Wear are of the velvet in white | or pastel shades, with facings and co- pious frills of lace or chiffon, the tones of which are repeated in the floral gar niture of the hat. HE vogue for the marabout stole ts I on the Increase, and small wonder, for never was there a dress accen- sory more chic and becoming, Sixteen inches wide and three yards long are the dimensions demanded for spring, and the ends must be finished with a dozen fluffy tails, White, black, brown, gray and ombre effects are equally Popular, HE Parisians are wearing a great T deal.of black, nothing seeming to rival the vogue of smooth-faced cloth. Reception gowns elaborately trimmed with fine Ince and gold thread are exceedingly smart. A charming model, elegant though not extravagant, {8 of fine black panne cloth, ‘The skirt is gathered all around the waist with the exception of the frent width, which 4s plain and covered with graduated panne velvet spots, which also appear as a border at tho hem of the skirt. A loose bolero 1s worn over @ gray eccos- dion-platted crepo de Chine blouse, tied here and there in front over a jabot of cream lace. ‘The cloth bolero just mests at the neck and falls away in soft plaity bordered all around with velvet apote A wide panne velvet girdle completes the dainty spring more). Another extremely chic black gown Is trimmed with gulpure and taffeta nas- sementerie. The three-quarter directolre coat is cut away to show a fancy waist- coat of white cloth embroidered with| gold. A plaited muslin cravat with frills at the walst is a dainty touch. ‘Php hat created for this gown is a toque distinctly unique in eonstruction. It con- ists chiefly of a single jet rose raised on @ baudeau of plafted peau de aote, which soft fabrio is puffed and tucked out becomingly above the face. An ostrict plume gives @ graceful effect at the left side, T ure Ornaments. dolicate tan and white, costumes of exclusive design for A trimming, A shirt waist of absinthe lately imported reveal some collar of saffron colored Unen. This col- lar, which {s much in the pointed cape, fastens at the front with & Indder of saffron bone buttons and stitched linen straps. Another waist of Venetian red, in a faded tone, shows a novel dispisition of Suscued bands, one ruvaing down the front, while the s?oulder line 1s em- phasized with two more bands ending at the elbow puff. ey is a2 arran, I" ls predicted that the spring modes! pointed” tats. cut te, waist, Itelt wiN scintillate more elaborately with | stitched Ike thy bonds and buttoned Jot than the winter gowns, gorgeous | OVer the ends of tiein, as they have been. Some of the new cael models pailletted gowns ‘resemble large plaques of jet cleverly interwoven with cut Jot beads, F ‘Tho tunic 1s to be very much tn evi- | ™*!” dence this spring and some models show | °°" it made of jet with deep paints falling | ° over a full underakirt conalsting of a | {°° series of tiny lace frills, continuing prin- | Pe cess fashion right up to @ vest front Kariece the Ince: : As to the extra skirt which {s to ac- Wo have heard for some time thar} Company any of these boii that TRANGE to say, many, importers to prefer London styles to ones this spring, In the more elaborate ‘than Parisian they are, nevertheless, at times ¢ extreme simplicity, modest little bo: f goftered delaine and tucked point being shown without other ave ge of Fashion News s© By Mme. Judice Se HE New Decollete Frocks Which have Just Reached New York—Long Droop- ing Shoulders Like Those of 1830 Reign Once More—Spangles for the Fluffy Girl—Many New Designs in Op- era Coats—Some Smart Frocks Shown in the Illustrations—The Latest Coiff- - trim several pring, | shoulders, BATCH of delightful little bodices Pretty and practical fancies !n | Greon delaine boasts a deep Puritan with spangles and jet is shown, This Ape of a} with silvery reflection, held {t over tht A plafn white velvet skirt | Wae worn with this waist. LACK evening waists are not fash- B Sonable for spring, although @ ree sent model in black net covered bodice has a huge breast chou of soar let tulle that flames like some supetb/ flower. A band of heavier sequin work encircles the neck. The outside pore tion of the elbow sleeves shows thq same ornamentation, while a litt above the elbow a band of the tulle holds the fumess close to arm. The whole front of the bodice: in narrow flounces. A black skirt is worn with this waist, For THIRTY YEARS the Standard Purity and Excellence BROTHERS accordion plaiting, has lost its prom-| Must be determined by the .uality of Inence, but In Parla it is more in favor the garment. With white evening than ever, waists of nny description plain skirts of black velvet and white end pale- NEW fancy for leather ts re-| tinted cloth are to be worn. ,For the A onsible for very odd smart| theatre bodices of white or quiet, deli- costume effects. A notable modet] cate colors are preferred. high- in a walking suft of novy blue chevidt| delored blouses are used by the French Nas collar, cuffs, flap pockets and belt] exclusively for morning wear wud then| of deep margon-co! 1 calfskin, while] with black gowns of-extreme 1 a visiting costume, w is a study in] The gala waist is usually cut brown, employs for walstcoat, gauntlet] sometimes pping from sf cuffs and revers buff chamois braided tn] shoulders, though secured by suspend-| black and gold. A gown of Scotch clan] ers of some . zibelino is fastened tho length of the} An extremely pretty low opera watst | coat with graduated s bs and buckles/seen at a performance “Parsifal of alligator skin, the belt and wrist) was almost hidden by a point lace bands also being of the skin bertha gathered at the bust with two Ooze Kid in different shades and] wreaths of small pink roses. Four su natural calfskin, with its mottling o§{ pender atrapsof pink velvet. ribbon,