The evening world. Newspaper, January 9, 1904, Page 5

| ) HE Fashionable Girls’ Apparel Considered in Detail for the Dif- ferent Hours of the Day-~-A Short Military- Cut Costume for Her | ey Morning Walk--A | Smart Luncheon { Blouse for Her Mid- \ day Meal--Laces of All Sorts Are Popular for This Garment--For Her Drive There Is a Stunning Afternoon Gown, and After that She Dresses for Her ; Reception--This Gown of ite Silk Trimmed with Gold--Later ,\ There Is a Gorgeous Dinner Costume, Which Is Afterward Displayed in a Box at { the Opera--A Charm- 4 ing Evening Gown of Figured White Silk with Drapery of Pearl Strands Dainty 1 ) Dressing Gowns in the Empire Style. LOTHES and the wearing of them, hats and colffures now occupy the entire attention of the women of fashionable society. Many are the @aties and pleasures of the society maid @r matron in mid-winter, and equally varied are the costum je wears in thelr fulfilment. In oraer to see and to Know what the fashionable girl wears fat the different hours of the day, it ts meoessary to consider her in detail from the hour when she gets sleepily out of bed to that one which takes her wearily ack to It. ing costume for a brisk In the park or on the avenue and for fle breakfast she dons her morn- these podestrian excursions she wears @ short walking costums of awugcer! miiltary cut. The costume illustrated Is of nary Dlue cheviot strapped with black braid. Almost eediess to indicate, the skirt ls cut ) clear the ground all around, the hi ug 1s perfect, there is no sagging or dropping: of arty part and the skirt 1g fall enough -to allow of freedom of movement, but not so full that the wind! can catch it and blow it around un-! comfortably. The best expression in the military coat takes the form of the soldier's tunic. This has a high, straight “choker” collar, sometimes in- laid with bright velvet and with much braiding in fine gold. | The fit !s close to the figure both back} and front, and the fronts are so cut as to) indicate the extreme straight line which fg considerest the correct thing, Each ‘ and every one of the back seams (and | the coat is cnt with the full complement) | tw covered with brafding, and the fronts | are decorated with the same or with| other braids, these running horizontally géruns, And loops and barrel buttons of | braid being ust as a fastening. The! button and buttonhole—-except the button | 1 y for these smart little garments | which add a dainty touch to the| toflet of any girl, That the baggy | plouse waist is a thing of the past is demonstrated by the latest model: The luncheon blouse pictured is of pale blue sil and Valenctennes lace, the lace being used to decorate the be of the brass: bullet variety—have taken a second place to the cord and frog fastenings. The sleeve—and sleeves | are important—must follow the soldierly | model as far as possible in every re-| spect, save that the,chevrons and other | , “insignia of the army are omitted. And then the whole tunic {s bound with paid all around, which gives it a very @mart finish indeed. Having walked the two or three miles prescribed by the beauty specialist she | next gets into a smart luncheon blouse and is ready for her midday meal, ‘ACES of all sorts are most popular | AF ant Bs sleeve and the simulated vest seen so many of the smart indoor garments. It has but a faint guggestion.of u blouse. The full sleeves, plaited to the elbow, are trimmed for that distance by pointed horizontal bands of the Inco, which Is also used on the cuffs. Similar pointed bands of lace are used on the vest. fA park and then she gets dnto an afternoon gown and ts ready to re- celve callers. Phe reception gown plotured ts of mhtte ailk trimmed witn gold. ‘The full skirt {s plaited from the hips in narrow tucks and has three nuns’ folds about the bottom. At the knees i is circled by three horizontal bands of gold. ‘The blouse waist is covered by a bolero with half sleeves of elaborate gold embroidery and there is @ deep corselet belt of the white silk laid in folds, FT'DR luncheon comes a drive in the HE informal reception over, the so- clety bud gets into her gorgeous dinner gown, which later will be seen in her opera box. Paris {s outting these deoollete gowns square off the shoulders, so that the dainty curve of the arm and forearm are plainly re- vealed. The girl who has dimpled shoulders will adopt this style enthust- astically, for her dimples will be con- sidered a mark of real boauty. the newer mode the bodice Is worn over the skirt and finished with a deep, swathed girdle, and this must be very cleverly manipulated so that there in no effect of bulk or clumsiness to mar the svelte curve of the waist. And it ia in the sheerest of fabrics that this will be best developed, for this year even the richest brocades, the most ex- quisite velvets and shimmering silks all come to us with this soft, sheer ‘nish, and so pliable are they that a length of any one of them may be put throug, the traditional wedding ring and come through without marring or creasing. Al The skirt, LTOGETHER charming is the even Ing gown pictured of figured whit: aifk with drapery of pearl stran; which fs laid tn box plalt reveals a deep under flounce of accor- dion-plaited chiffon, and the plaits are trimmed with applications of Queer lit- tle wheels of chiffon ruching which also the outline rectangular spaces about bottom. T HE corsage cut off the st has a deep bertha of pearl falling to the waist line and form- little butterfly sleeves. There ts # deep corselet belt of crushed silk, Din- ner over, the belle dons her plume-trim- He In Doar Miss Ayer: HE most appropriate and least em- barrassing way to pop the quos- Hon is to say: “Seeing you are rather shy and fear to asi the impor- Want question which I know ts ‘on the tip ef your tongue, allow me to pro- pose. Will you marry me? You know I would not have asked you but for tle ra welling without words that you love me; and.I know your answer ta yes, 8. WOLLINS. Let Him Hope. ina Aye FAVOULD sue in this way: ] “Dearest Mary, give me at least a) ray of hope that, with time, I will woo and win you. In every wom- an’s face I meet I look for your imagu tm yain. For tho love of anything that fa) Gear to you, let me hope—oh, let mo hope!” JOHN 8, 188. His Reart’s Desire. Dede’ Miss Ayer; ¥ answer to “How to Pop the Ques- tion?” would be the following: “My Dearest Sweetheart: will ever be grateful and thankful to! allow mo to do the following: Share forte of home happiness; allow me to make life pleasant, agreeable and happy @ee you: allow me to pay your board for ‘you tf you will kindly grant my heart's! most cherished desire, and that !s to!tion” not because she loves him but Your troubles with you; share the com-| man she does love, the balance of your life—in plain words, become my wife. I will be true, de- voted, honorable, pleasant, agreeable and, in fact, everything in this world to make you happy." JOSEPH KRAUSE. A Clever Housewife, Dear Miss Ayer: ¥ Idea of how to pop the question most convinoingly would be to go right up to my man and say: “Charley, suppose you were to take alck, Who have you to care for you? Nobody. You would have to go to a hospital. ‘When you lose a button you have to sew it on yourself or get your boarding mia- tress, who 1s perhaps a virtual stranger to you, to do ft for you. Now you know 1 can cook, sew, am a good laundress, know how to keep a house neat and tidy and think I would make splendid life partner for you. I'm resuy. What do you say?” BG, K. A Very Womanly Way. Deer Miss Ayer: DO not approve of a woman propos- ] ing to a man under any conditions, not even in leap year. till, I think [there would be less unhappy marriages should it be deemed appropriate in somo cases, as very often a young woman marries the man that “pops the ques- simply because she cannot marry the) 9 he has not apked the question, and she dare not let the opportunity pass. So girls, now 1s your time,, If the one THE BEST WAY TO POP THE QUESTION. Address all letters on this subject to Margaret Hubbard Ayer, Evening World. comes around that you want show him in every way that a good, true, loving wife is essential to every man to make his Ife worth living. ‘Tender little kindnesses that he cennot fail to notice and I think by the end of the leap year you will have “popped the question’ land been accepted by your actions {f not by words, JENNIE TAZEWELL, A Modest Refusal. Dear Miss Ayer: | WOULD refuse an offer of marriage in this form: “Dear Bir: Iam vory stateful for: the love that you bear me. «f love and esteem you as a friend and I am very sorry if I have misled you tm otherwise, I pray that you may find some one that is worthy of your affeo~ tions, Believe me your sincere friend.” MAYND QUACKENBUSH. A Delicate Hint, Dear Miss Ayert N regard to popping the question: It ] the man you love is slow in propos- ing and you think he 1s able to pro- vide for you, wait for a chance to ask him to visit some nearby church where there is a wedding to take place and| after the ceremony is over inoidentally remark; “I think married life is grand, I wonder will I ever walk down the chureh asa bride?’ If the man really loves you he will not hesitate to ask you to become his wife. MARGARET M’EVOY. - al i ett ai i ’ oh ic Soi dey Ae et med white hat and a delicate opera cloak, for i the night 1s fine ehe will 0 to the oper her viotoria. @ duinty dressing gown and soft OME before midnight, she alps into slippers, And even this negligee ie int of _her eat The and fabric. The empire styles are much favored for these lounging robes, the yoke being fitted to the shoulders, and the rest of the garment attached here invisibly, a broad collar or fichu pass- ing over the shoulders and tying with long, graceful ends ovpr the bust. The ekirt fe cut on increasingly full Unes and flows widely out from the shoulders down. Theso tiers of flounces are cun- niggly appliied* below the knee, brs Poa e A edger the other and & bead of ‘braid and embroidery cleverly con- the joining. ded for no eyes 'OO much stress cannot be laid upon T the necessary softness of the oom- ing season's dress Unings. She who Fusties ts lost, sartorially speaking. The new soft taffetas and louisines mest the demand, and in some instances pongess and India silks will be used. Pongees are most ) ae they wearing, ‘No-end of praise should be given pongee petticoats, It has wide range of color, has no rustle and will outwear ten taffeta silk petticoats. HB most recent and original fad for il: @rop skirts in Paris, and one sure to gain favor with the short-skirted woman everywhere, {s the inside ruf- fles for smart walking costumes in very fine Mght-weight leather. Stamped leather ruffles, with pretty designs of bright red poppies on a dark brown ground, are. quite the nobbiest thing for @ brown cloth skivt, Shese rutias \ ~ are made on a band that ts buttoned to the lining of the skirt, ANUARY 1s too early for the average woman to make any radical pur | J chases. It is really a between-season Ynonth, and @ period very hard for the well-dressed woman of moderate means —her winter and fall gowns have grown monotonous, and yet it too early for anything springy. The best gown for | thin time of year is a black broadcloth street costume, This dress is suitable for all occasions and oan be worn on sharp early apring days with a fur col- lar or stole, or without as the season advances. Either a winter or spring hat 4s appropriate with it, anf a change of waists gives variety to the costume. A stunning and yet most servicegble one recently worn by a New York ma- tron was of black Venetian, with a ekirt out along new lines, very straight and swinging clear from the ground. It was trimmed with black silk ribbon an inch wide an dgathered on each edge, It had a jacket waist, with long over @ white broadcloth vest and revers embroidered in blue and studded with mock turquolses. ‘The great advantage of this coat lay in Its adaptation t: formal or informal wear by closing oF opening the stole front to sult the 0” casion, The drooping shoulder oi) and stole ends and the old-fashionc elbow, were devorated at intervals wit) black silk fringe jabots. {tem in the winter outft that an ingenious woman has devised ‘one flounce to each top. ‘These flounc are provided qith button holes and the tight effect sleeve, bellying out at tl ETTICOATS are such an important most practical plan of having more thay Duttons’ to ‘the edge of the top of the THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENING, JANUARY 9, 1904 4nd “ace kirt. Thus, @ short frill of black moreeu is excellent for wet days, and in fine dry weather a long black or colored silk may be donned. This is a word in season to the woman with an inadequate dress allowance, and I think her name ts legion. ARIS hee once again declare’, and most emphatioally, that the shirt- waist, the blousa the separate ‘Wwaist—whichever one chooser to cal) & —is to be « feature, and no insignificant one at that, of the new spring styles Just about the openimg af every season the fiat goes forth that i is to be abolished, tut this has been ahiefly on ‘the part of the Gressmakers, to whom thre economy fmplied by the construc- (fon of this little garment has ever been esbhorrent. It ts repeatedly announeed with every show of authority that the leaders of the fashionable world have decided against it. But, nevertheless, in the face of this condemnation, the shirt waist will continue tts triumphant ca- reer, and the number in possession of the smart woman or girl this spring will only be limited by the size of her purse or extent of her ingenuity, There ts not another article of dress in a well-dresseq woman's outfit that will permit of the latitude tn cut, fit, sh materlals trimmings and personal preferences tha can be eo fashionably demonstrated uy in this Uttle item of assured spring fashion. [HERP !s. no materta! in ourrent styles that cannot be selzed upon for this walst—vel fancy silks, China and wash hg weaves and finene: of every description of var; woods from the Japanese crepes to the domestio per- cales, Keach and every one of these OF Blue SilK A Page of Fashion News. A By Mme. Judice More Declares than Ever. land seme more will be represented in the spring shirt waist for 1904. In those for morning weas the original lines of the man’s shirt are more adhered to than for the last few seasons. C lace for trimming proméipes to be one of the greatest favorites. The coarse laces have bad it all their own way for quite a length of time, and therefore Damo Fashion hae declared them paase and that the fine-meshed laces are tovhave Gas oe, All of the fine nets and sre, races, the point d’Alencon and ers of (lat mendre will be extensively HIFIFON velvet, with @ Bittle real we may oonsicer ath) ° used by the clever dressers, With tho finer laces and nets there is, of course, sking of sheer soft chiffon pro- Uning which must of and the b cut with t bo fe snugly feathenboned tn re! ie the figure. No every ourve end line of matter that te outer tended to hang loosely and softly, camnot acquire the correct set unless the inner lintng is all that it ¢hould be. HE newest adjunct to a very sinart T tallor-made shirt waist is the in- serted cravat, This is a stock and cravat combined, made of silk, velvety suede or any other material one choose. usually matching the girdle. The fad is to have two large buttonholed places made and worked in the front pleit of bodice, the first one about a quarter of a yard from the neck and the second as, ft inches below. ‘The cravat ends, a tor being tied, are passed Gronen two large buttonholes in the plait. 77 dos way entirely with the stickp! and ts a decided novelty. T woman or girl who likes all the novel- ties, for it combines sheerness and sup- the HERB ts a new fabric known as pleness of silk with Ightness and warmth of fine flannel. It will launder to the last thread without los- ing a single {ota of its suppleness, sheen and style. In addition to this silk flanne} all the heavy wash fabrics in imported veetings, madras and pique- in a new phase colors in bright effects | Which will come as « rellet after at much white. Tn tl . ri n lawn, crystal linen poplins ‘and bengulines—in_ these white will reign sup und the umount of dainty lace and embroider of shirring and tucking, will appear in these almost beyond belief. ER before has such a variety in color, material and design been Yered in belts, There are 6 bands of leather, flexible but. subs tial, some of these all of nine ti width and fastening elthor with a suc- ceesion 9f buttons, and snaps Gust Ike The Best Gown for the Present Between sons Is a Black Broadcloth Street Costume— — New Dress Linings Are Very Soft and Have No, Rustle— Flounces that Button On—Inside Ruf-, fles for Smart Walking Gowns—Paris OQ; is Emphatically of the Shirt Waist—The New and Old Materials for Waists—Soielaine, a Silk Flannel,ls Some+ thing Novel—Inserted CravatsandLaceCuffs and Collars—New Ideas in Belts—Dainty Dress Accessories—The One-Color : Taken a Strong Hold—Chiffon More rin Use — solelaine, It being a silic flannel and | ts sure to be a favorite with the| Sea +4 In Favor of Scheme Has a glove), or else having @ large square or oblong. As this ts of gilt and brafds one find them in belts, and enthusiastically, il others have four or even five rows narrow’ variety, fashioned into sirdie. The ribbon belts, too, ahow prevailing touch of gold in the and little side straps, Ik such @ hold in po} growing apace, and match exactly the hat or vells with any color in hats longér the smartest, With the blue veils, with purple yells, brown with brown, | through the lst of and with the greatest care that shade shall be exact r vellings are among the and never was there « time ped, fonable veiling was so vat newest styles are H® one color scheme a i H é oi H i I i Hs 8 8 j aS Se A