The evening world. Newspaper, December 26, 1903, Page 5

HE Gowns tor New VYear’s Hostesses Are Beautiful and Startling —New Vel-| vets that Differ from) the Weighty Materials of Former Years—Ex- quisite Embroideries that Are Executed in Jet— New Shoulder €mbroideries — Very Elaborate Visiting) Toilettes of Black Vel- vet and Irish bace—, An Exquisite Cos- tume of White Cloth Over Daffodil bouis- ine Shot with Silver —Simple but Effective Tailor-Made Gowns— Descriptions of the Dresses that Are IIl- ustrated. For though New Year's Day does W not vie in importance with Christ- Mas on this side of the water, in Paris it is the gre: st day of the year and the one for which dressmakers and | milliners evolve thelr most beautiful | and startling creations, The New Year's reception is the most important function ITH the New Year the new gowns. of the social season and many exquisite costumes designed for that occasion ana| sent for exhibition to America are v on show in smart uptown establish- ments. | O consider the hostess'’s gown first, undoubtedly it should be of velvet. Never before have the velyets pre- mented t mselves in such a charming nd, varied assortment of weaves and colors, The lust time that velvets en- Joyed such a tremendous vogue as they | have to-day they were almost a totally different fabric. Then they were either very good, very rich and stiff and very expensive, or they were cheap and cor- Fespondingly poor. Now, however, we have changed all that. The velvets of to-day are as sheer and supple as a soft silk. You can crush up a yard of the present day fabric in your hand, and it. comes out without crease or wrinkle. You can drape it in the most classical und intricate fashion and It falls as softly and gracefully as the Gheerest tulle or mousseline de sole, 1s truly descriptive of their weigit, > for a yard of one wejghs no more than oes a yard of chiffon ftself, and ono can handle and manipulate it in about the same manner. One truly Magnificent example to be worn by ® prominent New York hostess on New Your's Day has the most exquisite om. broiderles executed In Jet, which, com. bined with black chiffon, cleverly ap. plied, relieves the somewhat sombre magnificence of the black fabric. Upon & perfectly fitted bodice, which defines avery svelte line and curve of the figure, there is a yoke and plastron effect in jet, several sizes of beads, Gabouchons and pear-shaped palletted belng used, and this is mounted upon white chiffon, the, velvet being cut Sway beneath with most artistic effect, The very long shoulder line is observed and in this instance the shoflder seam la very cleverly eliminated from the outer bodice, the Jet embroideries being cunningly applied in strap fashion over the shoudder, so that the utmost length consonant wath the figure of the wearer 4s attainable, Tq) shoulder embroideries @re continued down the arm in the sem- blance of a sleeve cap, and a deep jet fringe A’ for the chiffon velvets, the name composed of very fine beads hangs prettily over the elbow puff of black chiffon, this being lined with white so that !t tones in well with the rest of the trapming scheme, velvet has an oval medallion of tina Jet mounted upon the white chiffon, ‘this reaching from the wrist to the el. bow puff, The fitted bodice has a marked novelty in the jet girdle which encircles the waist, this being pointed in the back, rising each side of the plas- tron in front in a sharp point. This gir- Cle is embroidered directly on the velvet corsage, narrowing somewhat on the sides, and we may accept this as one of the forerunners of the coming modo, whioh declares that all the new gowns will have the deep girdle effect exe. cuted directly upon the corsage, The skirt, which 1s cut en traine and ¢lroular, has the plastron effect of the corsage carried down the front in tat ier atyle, and the hip darts are cleverly put in with a fagoting done in the email, Ane jot beads. There is a sug- gestion of a yoke and flounce carried out in the very fine ‘band of fet which passes round the skirt just below the ips. Above this the fitsis enug, whhe below it the velvet tails in tun rich folds which catch the high lights with beautiful effect. The back is arranged in @ large double box plait, this extending Widely to ¢orm the long train, Ts jong mitaine cuff of the chiffon ‘UBT. a8 exnuieite and elaborate is an- other’ reception or visting toilet of white cloth over daffodil louiaine Shot with silver. The outer frock 1s Of cut-out embroideries of a warm tint of white cloth executed upon @ background of square meshed ecru net. Here, too, the corsage is snugly Aitted to the figure, and there ts a fas- cinating ttle bolero which comes to Just below the bust, being finished there with long strands of white silk fringe. ‘The bolero portion projects far over the @houlder line, giving the fashionable tong shoulder effect, beneath which the Ombrelie sleeve, tight at the armhole @nd flgring broadly below the elbow, is out in vandyke points over the very Bouffant puff of double white chiffon, ‘A simple band of the embroidery ap- , mented the welt, and @ earrow coin- ture finishes the walst, this, too, being | worn over the sk HE skirt itself ts cleverly fitted at T the hips, cut-out panels of the cloth alternating with the embroidered net motifs, these extending In yertica! Ines to below the knee, where a dy clded flare is seen, and the embroider: then assuming’ a horizontal or crosswis) direction. Plain bands of the cloth, cut to fit the curvéd flare Gf the skirt are here applied, these affording welght and stability at the foot. The under- skirt or drop skirt has a number of double chiffon ruches, yellow over withe, posed above tho hem, and these gleam prettily through the open meshes of the creamy net. The narrow sash of yellow loulsine ribbon 1s carelessly knotted in the back, and long ends, which are knotted at Intervals, fall to the hem of the gown. V pictured of black velvet with Irish lace, It has the 183) shoulder line slanting from a collar and vest of the crochet lace, and has two lays of vel- vet falling over the sleeves and corsage. Two stunning lace medallions ornament the hips; where the fulness 1s lald in tny platts above the knees, where It falls in a graceful demi-train. PRY elaborate is the visiting tollet | the tailor-made costume of red cloth | Mis’ simpler, but still effective, is with red velvet revers and a coll and vest of real lace, Tho blouse is a smartly cut bolero with novel appllca- tions of cloth tabs from shoul- der to revers, A narrow velvet band outlines the hips of the skirt, which Js of the nine-gored variety. To wear with the gown a beautiful waist of coarse Irish crochet is shown. It 48 made over a silk lining with ohif- fon interposql. The fastening is at the back, with pearl buttons, and bands at satin are usell to define the collar and cuffs. The fit is snug and the front Groops gently into a girdle belt. ANY periods in dress history are representod In the 194 models. The 1830 styles dominate in evening gowns, with their full skirts, flounces, ruches, berthas and puffed sleeves, but the princess appears as well and moulds the figure more perfectly than ever. Simplicity 1s a striking note In these gowns, the simpligity that hides under elaboration. It requires creator of modes to turn out a “simple gown" such as Parisians have adopted this season. once more be soft and charming. Yards and yards of soft stuffs are needed for the new evening or reception gown, for skirts and sleeves, particularly for the diaphanous materials that re- quire underbullding, Tulle, the old-fesh- joned ‘illusion,” 1s the best example of this and the latest favorite of the hour, and it Js again combined with moss rose- buds as in the days of our grandmothers, One of the most adorable tulle frocks has raw-edged billows of ‘shaded rose. Ropes of tiny satin rosebuds In“shaded pinks is the trimming. These are looped the skirt and Fim now wills that woman shall in a triple garland on border the very low satin bodice. The merest wisps of tulle, topped by a loop of the buds, which drop on the bare arm some dis- tance below the shoulder. NOTHER frock of fragile white silk A point d'eaprit, incrusted with a fairy lace, showed a return to the gilt spangles of the long ago. These firefly trimmings have long played an important part in dress. Marie An- toinette wore them, and history records Josephine decked In ‘rose-colored illu- sion, with silver spangles, Whether the gown of the present day will be wora with @-qwreath of diamond. wheat THE WORLD: SATURDAY EVENING, DECEMBER 26, 1903. t Visiting Toilet In cloth, Velvet. Reveres And face: d-Reception & in Bi Felvet, Hand Embroidery opue Q + Costume de Visite! In white Cloth with, \\ Applique. 5 A Danzig | gives grace even to an angular arm. 1 a sleeve arrangement cade, trimmed with an appliqued design | restaurants. Even those whom time has in unent velvet. bed of graceful curves disdain to cover thelr shoulders with anything RINGESARGO GEE TTT fnore. aubstantial) then flmy® tase, | sity be fashioned In the more sub. hake Tine Siniteien in i ee . stantlal materials, The princess apnea te OUD Oe ears, as was Josophine's, cannot be | question has an. xtreme |swns. White ts still popular, although a which were: vel " x » Wo! f vidua told. ‘The spanglos, which were very bt-front effect, It Is cut off the |%® Woman who alms at indlviduallty sma!l and put far apart, covered both ‘ rs and finished by a short, tight- Rown and lace Insets, creating a fitting bolero of ribbon, which Is tala {Wah such as geranium red or burnt MaGie meen ore ee In folds and edged with uncut velvet |P@Ne Is effective among snowy masses. trimming: medallions. The long, tight-fitting skirt besides having Uncut velvet medallions, has the, hem garnished wdih jwops and the ends pendant from rib THER evening gowns seem trimmed J : ‘-tollets of rib- Conte guia chaatle:tlintasd laste bon rosettes, which are set at intervals 1 mulls, are frilled, flouncel and | between the medalions. The same rib- cS 1 Be a bon ornaments hang from the elbow sashed from chin to toe, but all even- ing bodices are cut off at the shoulders, In fact, it seems as {tf only careful Atting keeps them from dropping off. | of the hollday evening dress Much of this effect 1s produced by the| result of the craze for long-shoulder bertha and the trailing wings which | effects, The trimming ts pushed fur- ornament the sleeves. | ther off the shoulders till the bottom sleeves of the ribbon chiffon wrist cuffs. T Tt a the ‘fies, puffs and floating wings at the elbow. Big puffs of gauze materials are often caught into a deep, tight cuff, which accentuates the slenderness of the wrist, while the transparent puff following after In dress, marked fashions | appears Jin a princess gown of white satin bro- | theatre, ribbon gowns are being worn after 6 o'clock by women offall ages, end smal! ot on eat even in the ts turning to colors. est evening gown models. A DAINTY Rue de la Paix down over the with d'alencon lace. has an emplecement The co ‘Nile green taffeta, while a hind, ty at lar private dinners and fashtonasie An occasional vivid Lace sashes are a feature of the new- gown from a well-knewn house Is a lace robe covered with a veiling of clair de lune blue mousseline incrusted of embrolderea HE present season also shows @/allver, Is held at the waist by a belt of English Dewllete | sash falls to the hem of the skirt be- atthe white which long lace me, < Judice, HE 1904 Models Ila ustrate Many Per= iods in Dress Hig- tory—Styles of 1830 Dominate—VYards and Vards of Nice Soft Stuff for the New Re- ception and Evening Gowns—Tulle Is the | Favorite of the Hour —Ropes of Rosebuds Combined with “Illu- sion” — kace Sashes Are a New Feature— Dark Velvet Cos- tumes for Receptiong and Afternoons— Short €ton Jackets . of Fur the batest Fad —Several Novelties in the Trousseaus of New Vear’s Brides. Ing a wreath design extending up the ~ front of the skirt. Another wreath of * medallions is inset below the hips in # * tucked yoke, which {s continued in @ sirdle, giving a princess effect. A shir ring of mauve tulle outlines the low bodice and a bertha of white lace lightly embroidered in gold thread falls nearly | to the waist. The sleeves are like*the. bertha and fall very low from the * shoulders, leaving the latter bare. HER® ts a curious difference in the T more elaborate street gowns this | season, especially those intended for reception or street wear, where @~ smart cloth gown Is required. he dark velvet costumes are most ctive and are made not only of sille » veteen. These gowns are usually made with long skirts and « are trimmed with bands of cloth, satim « or braid and very elaborate in design. Skirts are decidely wider than last year, with a long train at the back and aides and long enough to touch the ground in front. All are made with @ close-fitting drop skirt of silk. For travelling and general hard weas . the short skirt will in fashion fot * many a day. HE trousseau for a New Years T bride shows several novelties, one of 2 Is In the form of a bos and muff, made entirely of pear-shaped pieces, worked around with buttonhole stitch and overlaid in such @ manner ag to conceal the joining to the founde ton. Another novelty is a» mole-colored — cloth dlouse, trimmed with a velvet ook lar elaborately embroidered in. silyen . the deep cuffs embroidered to match. A blouse has three capes, with scale loped edges, falling one over the othem with a narrow white satin border. B TS are growing wider daily, an@ the new walstband is from 4 to ¢ The sleeve is the distinctive feat eeve mas Y 9 1s the distinctive feature of the sleeve vecomes a mass of rui rans) i te eka lee Buadet seal Reaeaee have taken the place of the shiny . - ACE ts often used tn combination] Mave taken the place of the sitay - with chiffon velvet. A mauve din-|[\tler ones ; ner gown in this beautiful new Th newest freak of fashion in iaee HIS Is thd last of the Christmas week puzzles. Now get ready for the fabric ts finished around the brtiom of] Them I New Year's week novelty—the pin-light puzzles, for which $200 In pri | 100 PRIZES IN ALL the skirt with six wide tucks. These arte trina eetnecenent pe anias< will be offered. There will be six of the pin-light puzzles, as there w tucks form a flounce with round me-| train part et the attern, the. a six of this week's, end readers are urged in advance to wait until they have Ss © J | daltons of tace, each medallion edged] the design being worked in with coares worked all six puzzles before sending them in, This week many readers made 3 Prizes of SIO eas $3 with a frill of Valenciennes lace, form-! linen thread, the mistake of sending in the puzzles day by day, when they were explicitly 3 Ag 5 - - 15 ]] - - a Instructed to walt until the end of the week and then send in all six in the | oy “ “ 3 ‘ - 2 30 same envelope. Of course !n awarding prizes those who have followed insttuc- K How to Pop the westion. tions will be first considered. \} aa ae s 2 - - se § The pin-light puzzles will interest every member of the family and should | 43 “ “ 1 “ = = 43 the-tabla fun in New York homes theso loug winter evenings. As in the case of the Christmas week puzzles there will be 101| prizes divided, as follows: ‘Three prizes of $10 each, $30; three prizes of $5 ench, $15; ten prizes of $3 cach, $30; ferty-one prizes of $2 each, $82, and forty-three furnish great aroun . 100 Prizes - ar: Prizes of $1 each, $43. a P.O. box New York City." The names of prize-winners may be ready for Now that the Christnins week puszles are complete send In your six sol announcement by next Wednesday, ‘Chey will be announced as soon as possible tions tn the sanfe envelone. ‘ et Puzzle Editor Meanwhile get ready for the pin-light pletures next week These gentl.men are enjovings the ¢ § CHRISTMAS PUZZLE No. VI. gifts, Concealed among the tobacco smoke they create are prosents they NEXT WEEK—A NEW YEAR'S NOVELTY—PIN-LIGHT PICTURES—$200 IN PRIZES. \ é hae failed, $25 In Prizes. Denr Miss Ayer: HE easy way is this: ilk When you wander home ness oO And y our furnished room y: And with you double up. With this pasted in your She will not fall to see It, And she will do the rest. Beware of Dear Miss Ayer: sure of her quarry herself, In the event, And if she answers “Yes,” Go out and buy the wedding ring, Paste ‘This in Your Hat. from busi- a cold and snowy night, ou enter And the fire {s out of sight, How you wish you had the courage Fér to ask the one you love If she would leave her happy home ‘Then call on her some evening hat; HAPPY. Masculine Role. B the year ever 80 propitious, a B woman undoudtedly trespasses on very delicate ground when she un- Jertakes to propose, A yast amount of circumspection !s necessary to make her before committing however, I shou Send Answers to “Margaret Hubbard Ayer, Evening World, New York City.” of a joke we show great consideration for the feelings of others—they are Jet lown softly. Here is a model of what 1 mean: “That's quite a complimentary joke, Mr. A. I'll never forget it, even if im after years I should chance to see you encumbered with parental duties after years of ubsence.” ‘Thus you make no wound or pain and have none to heal. A READER. Most Girls Are Prepared. | Dear Miss Ayer: T 1s q well-kpown fact that tf » young man is calling on ea gtrl for any length of time, in the course of con- versation he will let a word drop in re- lation to marrying, and the girl, if she is not slow, will be prepared at ang time for the question. The simplest way to Propose is this: ‘T {im able to provide i a good home for yoy Will you be my. wife?” I am aire the girl has any love for the man, st) will accept. LEONARD, For THIRTY YEARS the Standard of igars and pipes they got for Christmas] younded or mortited, which too fre- made to wives, children, Sweethearts e x and friends. How many articles can you find inthe smoke? Take pen or pencilanad mgke a cing around each article. 4 suggest that she romewhat veil her tru feelings, assuming an arch, playful man- ner, such as for example, “Ié I were to ask you to marry me would you answer “This {s so sudden? " Here 1s his oppor- oth to liugh It off as a jest of assuming the masculine role, | ourself literally at his feet, for remember, “Holl hath no fury lke a! woman scorned,” CONSTANCE DAVIS. Iron-Clad Rules, No | Dear Mins Ayer: i only way the question can be ve it a gentle push, and then lot) nnot lay down any | ry it pop itself. fron-clad rules and stick to them. it and be convinced. HARRY EDWARDS. A Complimentary Joke, ar Mina Ayer AIH most dolicate way to refuse an 7 offer of marriage is (without being too slight) to handle the question 8 a complim If you handle t seriously sure to be ntary Jok somebody is Uy stirs up jealousy and hatred, ollowed by maliciousness, When treat- nicely a8 a Jol one sees his stpldity im pressing big dcuire, and in the way Purity and Excellence RUNNEL BROTHERS