The evening world. Newspaper, December 5, 1903, Page 5

) | HE Automobile Girl Is Keep:ng the Fur- rier and the Dressmaker Busy—Especialiy Swag- ger Garments Are Pro- duced in Leather—The New Pelerines of Chin- chilla Are in High Favor —Russian Pony Skin Continues to Be) Allur- ing—Road Racing Sets in Leather,Civet and Black Fox—Coats of Persian Lamb in Military Fash- fon Are Very Stunning— Squirrel-Lined Cloth Is a Delight and Some of the Coats Are Elabor- ately Ornamented. B the season advances the decora- A ations of costumes increase in deauty and variety. Extreme pic- jueness is the order of the day and particularly is this true of ceremon- fous gowns, many of which are made of gold or silver threaded brocades and beautiful pompadour and Dolly ‘Varien silks and sagins ornamented with rich laces and embroideries. There (s @ general leaning toward heavy satins and silks which are adaptable to thé Dew godet skirt. NSTEAD of depending upon flounces nd ruffles for the charm of the dress, one must now consider the “nine.” ‘The new fashions will be trying for those who are not jender and graceful. Dressmakers claim that they have been inspired this year by Louis XV. and Louls XVI. drawings. Certain it 1s that tho stiff silk and satin coats lately introduced fcr inner dress and ‘the full straight hangng skirts are in the note of the eighteenth century dames, A graceful dinner gown on this order has a voluminous soft skirt of white mousseline de sole incrusted with three straight bands of ecru lace. The Louls XV. coat opens in front over cascades of the ecru lace with sleeve flutings to correspond. The skirt is of Beany white satin brocaded in ecru elvet, BLACK silk costume which {s one of the new models might have come out of some forgotten trunk. It 18 made with a series of pipings on the full round skirt. The tight-fitting Dodice has a drooping bertha over ths sloping shoulders; the sleeves are flaring. One of the very extreme modes for the winter. ts~ the re- vival of the black satin -fréck~ for young matrons. It need not be of the duchesse kind, although there seems much prejudice in favor of it. ‘Phat softer fabric known as chiffon or Oriental satin may be selected by muons preferring its clinging grace, bf the aibblick stttek yeh should for becomingness show @ profusion of sort cream lac question seems to be whether or not boleros are to bé worn, At first they were uncompromisingly banished from the smart wantrobes, but in the more recent manifestations of the mo- @iste's art they are very much In evi- dence, Fur boleros of Persian lamb, sealskin or ‘heavy cloth are quite in yorue vogue for street, ‘wear, as rare rut isu je house gown or reception dress that ‘the question hangs, DAINTY gown on the bolero line A fs of that pale primrose shade of plisse chiffon. Over this is worn a guipure bolero in buff shades of course, ithe basque of which. is_contined to the back, The slcirt falls away on either eide to show the panel front of gulpure lace, the quaintness of tne style being accentuated by a soft chif- fon fichu and the wide hanging chiffon frills from the elbow sleeves. lt 18 further embellished with black panne Velvet shoulder straps and wide cors extending from undermeath the eae effect in the back. [ the winter fashions the most vital velling With fine snow finke specks. The -full skirt in trimmed with graduated rows of green velvet ribbon, The blouse is of white filet lace with green velvet laid under the figure in ‘the pattern, Over this is worn a tiny the velvet ribbon, sewed together in jacket is cut without revers or collar JU vattcs bolero gown is of green ‘and with sleeves to the elbow cnade of the yolvet ribbon, sewede together in @ depth of 4 or 5 inches and allowed to flare over long tight-fitting lace sleeves that lay close to the arms are long ovér the hands like mittens HE durable and fragile are closely allied in woman's fashion ‘this winter, but nowhere more than In furs. : Evening gowns of the airiest net or lace and in the most delicate tints will be accented by a line of fur, Black fox, ermine and sable belng preferred. So independent are the freaks of fashion that these bordrrs may be seen even Sa le ag i ca ata lh lo = sy peare on eres street coats In sealdkin, chinahiila, mole skin, Persian lamb and sable have in- crustations of cobwebby lace, doubled fluted sleeve hangings and gabots, While the muffs are conundrums nine times out of ten, and it would be simply imposetble to designate them by any “Jone material, ‘The dressiest and chinchilla muffs are combined with chenille, chiffon, out steel Dead trim- ming and lace, the ent be- ing carried out in the | ‘the at and Jucket. ‘HE three-piece outfit is no uncom- mon aight. Mrs, Burke-Roche has just had finished a most novel set of this kind for street wear It is of chinchilla fur, steel beads and chenille. ‘The boa is very broad and flat, and 1s té be worn about the shoulders, away from the throat, and hangs down thé front in two long tabs pelow the knees. ‘The body of this set, the centre of the doa and muff, and the crown of the hat is made of gray peau de sole, entirely covered with small steel beads in a scroll pattern embroidery. The wide border on each side of the boa and muff and the brim of the turban hat Is of chinghilla, Mrs. Roche wears a gray broadcloth gown with this set, and car- ries the muff on a chain made of the steel beads. Beads of all colors and shapes are to be very much worn this winter, but this combination of beads and fur is one of the latest Ideas. NY evening coat which combines fur fl and airy textiles Is approved. Con- sequently the most unheard-of combinations are seen everywhere, One opera clonk was of panne in jewel blue, with a narrow border of Russian sable. This was cut owt at the neck in decol- lete effect, the shoulders being draped with a fichu of white tulle and net, mingled with garlands of tiny pale pink roses, This floral freak was not the least of this wrap’s 1oveline: for under the flowing angel sleeves and the long points of the back and front hung @ complete under wrap of spungled net. White lamb is much employed by French makers for theatre und opera cloaks, the sleeves and fronts of which float with filmy flounces and scarts. Sometimes these airy deckings are min- gied whh chenille rosettes and falls of tiny flower spr UR imitations in silk and wool weaves when properly made up have striking elegance and are not likely to become common owing to their Syuirrel Lined Auto Cor With Sable Collar upon spangled frocks. Many of ae Weloriap Auts extremely nlgh price. Ermine, bearskin, moleskin and baby lamb all have their prototype in this imitation, Such tex- tures, wadded doublings and appropri- ately trimmed make ‘handeome evening and carriage cloaks. Even ithe plush jackets worn a number of years ago may be revived, for this so lately des- pised material is with us again, A dlouse jacket of burnt ivory plush was marked and shadowed in a way to imi- tate chinchilla, White raw stil bands embroidered in Persian rills formed the collar, cuffs and belt of this, Mole plush is really the best Imitation of the real article and black pannes crinkled are even better, > T is understood that sealskin fs al- ways in good style Just at this moment It Is having ¢ new vogue for Jackets, sometimes combined with cloth richly embroidered. Blouse coats of seal with gay cloth and kid fronts sMperbly incrusted with needlework are among the Frengh importations, One such worn with a plain cloth skirt In the same rich brown had a front ot marigold kid embrofdered with white and self color, A seal turban with a crown of the rich yellow kid went with this costume, which was the work of a celebrated Parisjan modiste. A thoroughly French feature of. the hat wae a thin scarf of white lace whioh dangled in a tied bow over the left ear—two white camelias holding it against the fur brim. BEAUTIFUL imitation moleskin model in an evening wrap has an embroidery of violets and foliage in the natural tints worked upon the fur material In baby velvet ribbon and; heavy chenille threads. The soft tones of the violet blends in well with the gray background and the touch of green lords a bright rellef to the somewhat nwpnotonous effect of the gray and Molet, head, and tfall over the than round. much left ear. Viclorine Ip Roya? Ervine One of the most popular materials for the soclety girl's evening wrap will ba @ cloth Woven to imitate the popular white Russian caracul, the left side and have the effect of being placed sidewise on the this effect Is creased by the tails and lace taba which The turbans themselves are very big and more oval One of sable and lace has the brim completely formed of the ar A" of the fur turbans are raised at mal Whose tail and flowers and lace, But the newest and ) [the brim, ‘and crows canes and the whole rd of parapies. Sc iin of paradise. have been seen only is no reason why co! used as well. ins feet mingle with Th gh AP elaves hats) mr aaitoned “on the is finished with a osttich plume of 8 far these kid hats) tn white, but there| lors should not be) ANY of the new M elaborate that tell how they a GRAND OPERA BILLS, VAUDEVILLE FEATURES AND EVENTS FOR NEXT WEEK German and Itallan opera will be the features of the third week at the Met- Popolltan Opera-House. On Moralay evening tbe bill will be ‘“Tannhauser,” with Mme, Ternina as Elisabeth, Miss Olive Fremstad as Venus, and Miss Del- garte as the Shephedl, a part in which she made her first appearance on Fri- day last. The Tanrhauser will again be Mr. Kraus, Mr. Van Rooy will re- appear as Wolfram, and the Landgrat will be Pol Plancon. felix Mott! will be (igs the Bane htet } desk. Passed Lanes te) of the season 4 eae the Canto, Mi realigiic imper- Arturo Vigna will fosca” will be re- Way evening with the same, ect. Mr. Viga will con- yhile, Mr, Caruso will be will repeat sonation of ‘Tonle, conduct both operas Pucoint's pented on fast as this w duet. | ‘weohengrin” is announced for Satur-| day noon, with Mme, Gadski in her a ble Impersonation of Kisa, Mr. Kraus as Lohengrin, Mr. Va Rooy as Friedrich yon Telramund, Messrs, Bara| 40) and Munlmann as the King a: Hera, | respectively, and Miss Edyth Walk the new m240-8oprano, ag Ucitud, Wi.chi| said to be cue of her finest role: ‘The conductor will be Mr, Mottl. ‘Le ‘Traviata’’ is the Dill for Saturday cn Italloa music. cellaneous gvorture toi trom operas by Verdi, Gluck and two novelties for orchestra, The first of these will be the Dahza dello Ondine from the “Loreley" of the |regretied young composer Qatalant, | whom ihe. Itahans call "the modern Bellini he Danza delle Ondine js a Gesoriptive composition of a poetic char; suggesting mystery. sighs and dreams, “La Poule’ (‘The Hen"), the second orchestral novelty, is a humorous scherzo ty Holgon!, Mme. Semorich. Mane. Jacoby, Mr. Dippel_ and Mr.) Marcel Journet will de the soloists In the first part of the concert, "Phe second jurt will be devoted more pantioularly to ‘the interpretation of the cntire, thind act of Verdl Soper and mel Pe rg cen: cast, compri and sae eee ieee abi me Cam: It will open with a mis- Including the Bizet! | tlon of Mr ried’ sifal’ forthcom! place on Chri expositions and H, BE. Krehbie' corps, announce; Nester Mall ot parsifal” assiated at tho ype. btniy Thhewdny a the sme week ‘Ariesionne leaders are playing excerpt and lecturers are hard at work with) 15, In wotch he will tell th and give it an untechnical ‘musical exposition ing production of istmas Eve. Mlustrations of ft. }, the dean of-the critic Men-| for “Tuesday afternoon, | story | es a lecture at in ee he wi Se conduct e the wore at | Ly Brisas, afternoons sf ers Rhodes w will compiete the | concert, which will be wader tihe direc: | Vigna | LECTURES ON “PARSIFAL.” Interest continues to grow in M c at the Metropolitan Opera-House, the firat performance of which tak Orchestral jing. and cri ny ered Horts.| ulu Ryan of Daniel atre, au lolf Glow. of fe under Es oir Opera-House, n-| Lacey Baker. at- "VAUDEVILLE BILLS. company of The poseura, Marcel tharies Pre! 3 and pomeany in a sketch, be among the feal “The Girl with es | here the will in personaic gist, and al amusing itor! World's Trio); ‘rons Billy Carter and 3 theatres renee Wilfred @ Auburn Halt’ |be the chief attraction at jene J. ‘sso, Couthoul, Who tells James originator of hotel rates ‘the Three skirts are so very you can scarcely re made. Frohman at, the 1 soe will Pianist, ~ zoices ‘trom the direction be as-| the of and his Talk- Clarke and “In the Blograph, tures at Kelvh's, will the Circle, clude Pulgora, ém- Morton, mono- Le Ait Pastor's there will be Porry Bryan one Senin Wood (The ponovan,. the hartes J. twill Parisian) house Mary | Sohnsons will be ‘features of th Ned W M ne the Dig part of d 'Beamon's. evgning dresses are growing steadily the new godet: pattern, and the fashion! Instead of sweeping they are of embroidering the gudets of the skirt, from the/ in such @ way that there is an embrold-| floor just so they sawing clear of thelered figure at the foot of every godet it giving a novelty A design which promises eyen greater! to the skirt and also introducing a color, “Tt Ie a rather remarkable fact that! popularity than the plain full skirt 18! scheme, shorter. gut off about half an Serpet. and the| dians, w ‘Theatre. ST RTT area baily Cilnord, ibe bal at the to the play ° Quartet w AT OTHER THEATRES. Continuing engagements theatres will be Marie Tempest in “Lae Marriage thave nstrel show at Hurtlg & Florence F h 1 also figure in the list “the Hon-frced boy. in his Inst week at Huber's Museum, r-Valo's remain at of Kitty," ¥ 8, COPEL Coan Wenly=t ne Swom of the King” inch is a charming one, tae Broadway | Mantel in { Street | Fourteen: will Street American 2 necien ioaman BY ex lin, arr hiypte Manhattan; 2 OE MS | \ershaen in Criterion; a th tal Schett Misses. will aa 8 Binoad wat Admirable Ward and Japanese. N yn and com- will put fring | Erigods, on York "W hoo} nn Stusee Fields's; Sam iams in leading | SaUaT® ‘Red Feather, Pri estajeatic cademy; eDee-Doo," a he at New Hudsoi “Winkewashing Julia," Garri the Master: with Susan?” Bijou; Goose," Amsterdam; + Robert .B, Mme, < Juadice “The Light of Other Days,” “Our New Millie Madison * Wal- Captain ‘Dheatre; ‘Theatre; he Little Princess, The County, Ohairmay Prisoner,” “Babett Miss Elizaoeth's in Gillette i rine “Babes | the * nest of cee fernand and Fatue gy wall Phe Girl trom Kay’ 2 Fraak Daniels in "The SOttios — XTREMELY Picture — esque Are the Cers- monious Gownsthat Are Worn-Gold and Silver — Brocades and Beautiful — Silks—The Bolero Gown ~ Is Much in Evidence— Some Dainty Examples of It—Fur on Airy Even- ing Frocks—Fur Imita-" tions in Silks and Wool Weaves—The New Skirts Are So Elaborate it Is ~ Difficult to Tell How” They Are Made—Hats of Dressed Kid Are Dew) cided ‘Novelties—Other Original and Interestiny Things in the Fashions of the Day. 7854 2 He! gs & ITH midwinter upon us and the ordinary needs of the fashion- able girl already filled, dress kers and furriers have turned thelr attention to the automobile girl, Beginning with. touring and hiked | % fs togs, they have evolved novel garments of fur, leather or heavy cloth, which are absolutely impervious to wind and weather. These may be very long, coming to the, feet, or very’ short, reaching to the waist Hne only. But the half. garment seems to be the most ge 59" by the fashionable motorist. are shown in a dull shade of suede or oose calf, something tween sage and bronze green, look so splendidly comfortable that te see them Is to want to wear them. With these caps of the same worn, Dullt on the yachting with a patent leather visor lined crimson to throw a aban ace sl the face. ie leather especially swagger HE new fur pelerines are in high favor ‘Yor automobile wear: pictured is of chinchilla, cut ike cape, V-shape in: front! long atole bordered with drooping fringe almost to the feet. It fastens with handsome clasps with pendants of #1 fringe. With this a muff to match 4 @ new and startling motor hat desig by the leading Frepch milliner is worn. pew ey b OR road use, the garments of Ruse sian pony are’ very att though a bit eonspicuous,, It brown fur with stift hair abd/bi yellow, markings scattered at aver the felt, Squirrel ts also very ular for touring, and the touring outl illustrated Is fashioned of the two furs. So the woman's coat of Russign pony ing a high collar of Hudson's Bay — ‘The etrange-looking capa are of the! ever-fashionable moleskin. civet and black fox are Llustrare The eather garment is very in cut and has a turn-over collar mented with contrasting stitching fanciful designs. The civet coat js Fons the shapeless pelerine order, and strange cap with wierd-looking ear ot the same fur, R Tiave road-racing oie in leath OR city wear, a very stunning ¢: ot Persian lamb, cut in Frye. military fashion, js shown, It has a” fat cape collar trimmed with gillk bral@™ ornaments, and the long front has to” full quota of military frogs, coat that the atito girl will take the: greatest satisfaction, The pute fg fashioned to suggest the lines of the figure, some good but lightweight cloth being selected for this, The fur lining” made of squirrel, of mink, of raccoon or any of the medium short-haired pets. But no matter what the Ining is, the }o) § rolling shawl collar on the outside must’) oo be of as handsome a fur as her purse! will permit, And if she can Save cuffs of the same fur, so much the ¥ although with the closer sleevrs ‘which is dest for auto use there is ret) same necessity for a cuff finish. In tm~ perial Russian sable or Hudson Bay auto girl will be gure to loo and the long coat with: handsome shawi collar. wilt, prove most useful garment in her wardrobe, | HE auto coat pictured is of heayy cloth, ornamented around the bot T tom and on the sleeves with stitching in an elaborate fore des‘za, It is lined thi and has a high collar on ona Pete a Russian sable. For THIRTY YEARS the Standard of Purity and tT Ba} ald