The evening world. Newspaper, October 10, 1903, Page 5

fight Fitting Backs and boose Fronts in the New Coats—Fur Coats for Fair Autoists— Wooltex for Walking Suits—New Evening Gowns from Paris. HE week's fashions show the latest; in favor of the close-fitting back. models in coats, For though the] The reason for this Is obvlous. mild weather has prevented any of| A tight back shows a good figure, the fall outer garments from making) loose one reduces the fat and lean, the their appearance on the streets many) well-formed and the unsymmetrical, to have already been purchased and more|a common, mysterious dowdiness. 80 are waiting in dressmakers’ and de-| when a woman has a pretty figure and partment stores for the inspection of| sees herself arrayed in a coat with a the fastidious shopper. back which {8 as generous to her The question this year conzecning oats has been whether the tight or loceely fitting Yack should be awarded ‘the palm of popular favor. For sev- eral weeks the rivalry of the two styles of garments bas been very npparent, Dut the contest has finally been decided The Home inating lines of the tight back. Loose Fronts. SSS to use ning for @ plaid suit or could I make it of heavy material untined? M. T. ‘The Mlustration can be made in many materials end different modes of trim- Tf you wish advice concerning new gowns or the making-over of ‘old ones, if you wish advice concern- Ing home dressmaking, write to “Mme. Judice, Evening World, Pulit- zer Building, New York City,” and She will give it to you in this column. RRA AANA, A Black Ball Dress, Dear Mme. Judice: ‘HAT color and what kind and what W style of goods do I need for a ball dress? Something in a dark shade. Zam 5 feet 4 inches and quite stout and ‘would like to have a dress that would not make me look stouter. I have au- burn hair, blue eyes and light complex- jon, R, B. W. Dressmaker I can suggest nothing in a dark shade uttable for a ball kown but black, and ‘think that will be becoming to your complexion, eyes and hair, and with @ainty-colored girdle and corsage knot Be very artistic, A black-dotted or Brussels net with tiny tucks running lengthways on the blouse, elbow sleeves end skirt to the knees, will have a ten- Genoy to slighten your appearance. Tiny ruffles edged in black and white lace in the foot of the skirt, edge of sleeve and about the decollete-cut waist will give @ dainty trimming. For a Girl of Fourteen. Dear Mme, Judice: INDLY print sketch of dress for @ young girl fourteen years old. I would like something in a plaid. Do you think plaids will be worn this ter? like @ atyle that but- YOUNG GIRL'S SHIRT WAIST SUIT. DESIGNED FOR M. T. fitted, the fronts of all the best models are permitted to hang in long, straight lines except in the case of the still prevalent corset coat. Loose coats are made of the heavier rough materials, such as zibelines and velours, while broadcloth. coverts and meltons are the chosen fabrics for the Clone-Aittigg coats. Fur Auto Coats. Zibeline will be one of the most fav-| ored cloths for winter wear, and the soft shades of blue are well expressed in this frosty looking cloth. Pastel blue In a pale shade forms the body of the smart wooltex wrap illustrated, with {ts little double capes, and satin-faced broadcloth in a sapphire tone makes a good relief and ccntrasts well with the beautiful Persian embroideries which face the frents and form the upper little cape. The cut ts loose, somewhat on the doxcoat order, and the full sleeves have a smart flaring cuff in the sapphire cloth, The flat turban ts In squirrel fur with tiny folds of sapphire blue velvet on the brim and a amart bow with a marabout quill decorates the left side. For the automobile the very latest thing Is the loose ooat fashioned of clvet fur, in which black and white are artistically blended. ‘These garments have now become practically shapele: and are really nothing more than heavy shawls with the addition of sleeves, The cut is almost circular, the sleeve being cut in one with the coat and there being no Seams whatever at the shoulder and armsize. A yoke effect fits the garment across the shoulders, from which the coat falls in full circular folds to well below the knee, A short béa of im- perial Russian sable, just one little ant- mal skin, makes a finish at the neck, and the very full, baggy sleeve is gath- t 1 t u v ul Se RES ‘eg re By fancy buttons it wil be very stunning. For instance, @ blue mixed plaid, blue velvet and steel buttons, or gilt buttons if brown plaid and velvet. Tho little vest and cuffs may be of lace or the velvet, as you choose. Plaids are very fashionable this winter in large pat- terns and dull color tones, “Modernized” Skirt. Dear Mme. Judice: HAVE a five-gored satin skirt In good ] condition made several years ago. Can I utilive it for a handsome biack odd skirt, or is satin out of fashion? I have also three yards of taffeta (black) that I would like to use for a bolero or Eton jacket, something dressy for the house and up-to-date, I am dark com- plexioned and of medium height and weight, M. B. F. Your black satin skirt would be quite modernised with alternating folds of dlack velvet or lace, after recutting the gores narrow at the top and flaring be- low the knees. I don’t quite understand your request for an Eton or bolero Jacket of black taffeta for the house, for r \ f tended for street wi However, all I can suggest 4s in the trimming of fancy Give @ dressy. jacket, A Dressmaker’s-Prices. Dear Mme, Judiocet HERE could I find @ dressmaker |! that could make the design that you drew for * I am somewhat of her build, ‘Addresses for business purposes are not printed in this space, but I should think you would have very little trouble in finding ‘a good dressmaker !f you a4-| stim appearance? vertised and selected one having goo Any one Knowing the very plume is posed fatly there is no rule as to their number or shape, provided they produce the exag- gerated shoulder line which fashion has decreed shall he worh this year. | which tan is n haired goods, such as the popular zibe- favored. A feature of the new coats !s Walking Suits. riety model {8 that which shof} stitched or strapped seams, fitted sleeves without features, are est Yeatures. The coat is of the Louis Seize order, ‘having the fronts slightly for It ts a simple blouse and two-plece circular skirt, and “beading” to give the dressy effect. A good dressmaker's prices range from $10 to $18 a gown. For Reception and Street. corty-Inch bust, a dress to wear to a reception, and how can I make it—something that would not be expensive, street dress next summer and that would make*me 100k dark hair and fair skin, If so, how woald qn voile with blue of ths sleeve with blue? Am I tbo stout over pale blue, or another pretty idea Either of these made like your pattern with ecru lace yoke and etoles would these styled garments are usually in| 49 particularly good for a winter re: ception dre Do not braid, velvot ribbon or sheavy lace, t0 | einow sleeves, allow them to hang loose and gracefully. and stout for a long coat sult. thing cut off at the waist or made about twenty-two inches, trimmed to give long To Make Her Look Slender. Dear Mme. Judie across the crown nd just touches the hair behind. Capes, single, double and triple, are he features of the separate coafs, and The principally black and the Jark shades of blue and every tint in ufactured, In the long- colors are mixed griys and reds and com- of white and black are most ines, binati heir absolute .ack of other trimming han that formed by straps or vlalts of he goods, Never before has there been such va- in walking sults. The favorite the long coat parefully fitted to beloW she knee with gathers, and of o single or double-breasted pattern, Plaids are among the newest autumn and in this correct wooltex pedestrienne costume illustrated they used in a broken pattern spon a bouretted surface, thus combining two of the new season's Stitched str bloused into the belt, Mme. Judice. trimmed in Dias folds dear Mme. Judice: AM twenty-nine years old, welgh 15 pounds, am 6 feet 3 1-? inches tall, have twenty-six-inch walst and What should I get for that I could wear for a more slender? I havo Would a light dress (pink mull) make me look stouter? underneath do? Would cream or ecru lace do, and should I line the ruffle part 5. GL R. voile worn for a@ long-coat sult? I should prefer the tan s dove gray volle worn over rose pink. or @ summer street sult. line the wide ruffles on the You are rather short Some- ine effects, will be best for you. HAT style of jacket and skirt will give @ young lady, 5 feet 2 Inches tall and weighing 1% pounds, a N. D, Bayonne, N. J. An Bton jacket with coat sleeves and aligateat about dressmaking could eus!!y| man's collar and a seven-gored or nine- repfoduce the gown you desire, particu-! gored skirt is best design for a gult to & Ball:Gown Ss oe And 1 A correct Fedestricenne Gowr length and simply finished with a stitched hem and a velveteen binding to Protect the edge. For figures which absolutely refuse to look well in the three-quarter coat the: short blouse is the proper subst! ‘These have tight-fitting backs reachI. about four inches below the waist all around, having the ¢mall, maszuline turn-over collar and snug revers. Som of the models of “9 coats show breast and side flap pockets, but the best coats are pocketiess, Evening Gowns. Two beautiful gowns which show the latest Parisian ideas for evening wear! aro illustrated. One, of white chiffon thickly bestrewn with tiny silver span- gles, makes a pretty gown, the effect ef which ts heightened by empiccements of real lace in Itallan guipure. The spangled chiffon is mounted upon ac- scrawny rival as to herself she will be|ered into a shallow dand of’ the same] decorate both coat and skirt, and give|cordion-plaited chiffon of the same|spangles heading the fringes are ar-| tons down the front instead of the braid very apt to turn from it to the discrim-|fur, Like all of the newest auto gar-| the effect of both length and slenderness.| shade and the foundation is of soft|/ranged in three tablier groups on the] trogs, checkerboard effect. ments this one is well provided with| The coat has a velvet collar and ouff,|white Lyfberty satin, which gleams|askirt, the double ohiffon falling in] grill others have the single military] Checkerbodrd patterns of pockets inserted in the ning. Tho hat | with turned back revers of brown silk,| through the chiffon folds, The corsage] straight, classi:al folds to the feet.| cape, sloped at the front and reachmg| pink and white, yellow and white, 1s fashioned from innumerable little | braided by hand in dark green, blue and|is very simple, having a yoke and bolero|‘There are no sleeves, a drapery of|q goint just above the belt so as tojender and white, or green and Although the backs of many of the|leops of white ribbon velvet in the flat| gold, Handsome buttons add to the rich| effect in real lace and blousing into aljet fringo falling over the arm withlebow waist line. are among ths newest ornaments > newest garments are fitted or semi-jturban style, and a broad marvdout| appearance. The skirt is in walking|orush girdle of shaded rose velvet. The} good effect. The decolletage is draped] Short coats, with blouse fronts, fitted| the cotton counters. + Old Favorites and Newcomers at Theatres Next Week _—— Mrs. Fiske to [Make Her First Appearance in Harlem as Mary of Magdala—Plays That Still Hold the Board. Mrs, Fiske will make her first appear- ance in Harlem, playing at the West End Theatre for a week in “Mary of Magdala,"’ Sohn ©, Fisher's musical production, “The Silver Slipper," will be at the Har- lem Overa-House, At the Grand Opera-House the at- traction will be “The Wayward Son." The Star will have “Wedded and Parted."" “The Heart of a Herd" will throb at the Third avenue, “The Child Wife” will be fdlind at the Metropolis, Clark’s Runaway Girl will be at the Dewey, and Rice & Barton's Burl quers at Miner's Highth Avenue Tho- atre, “For Her Children's Sake" will go to Proctor’s Fifty-elghth street theatre. Cortinuing engagements elsewhere will be W. H. Crane in “The Spenders,"" Savoy; Orrin Johnson in “Hearts Courageous," Broadway; Edna Bronson in “The Fisher Maide,” Victoria; Will- jam Collier in ‘Are You My Mather?" ‘Tyrone Power and Rose Coghlan " Garden; Edwerd Harri- Under Cover,” Murray Hill neatne; the English ‘musical comedy, “Three Little Malds,” Daly's; Fay Tem: pleton in “The Runawa Geonge Ade's “Peggy from lack’s; Charles Warner in. Academy of Music, last wee! Mack in “Arrah-na-Pogue,” Fourteenth Street Theatre; “The Rogers Brothers in London,” Knickerbocker; Blanche Bates Darling of, the, Gods.” Belase “Ben ur," New or! Dee-Doo,” Weber & Fielda’s ‘in Her Own Way," thomas Ross in “Checkers,” "The last week of ‘The Runaways" at the Casino will be marked by the dis- tribution of autograph photographs of Way Templeton on ‘Wed segday night. i ORAS eS ET converted into reefers, are | many stores where it ts coceaht’g reign of the three-quarter cont js ‘tikely to last through the wiates For wear fn rainy weather and travelling a loose semi<Newm | coat {s shown. A narrow bet | across the loose back and | around the walst, with a marked in front, and may be elther Of the or of leather. The sleeves are big, the skirt either of the gored oF variety. Long. flat tur scarfs are still the ri They are longer and broader than ast winter. Ermine and mo separately or In combl make up the smartest modeis, Very beautiful {s an evening moleSkin, combined with rich lace, fur hangs from a lace yoke in! flounces* and is inset with deep: of lace, Short fur jackets show the ated shoulder, ee , With Brazilian orchids in tones of pink nd mauve, with follage in the atural tints, A spray of the game/ hids is worn {ff the hair, when | dressed high with a medium pompa- \ dour, | The New Waist. A novelty in waists Is the morning |corsage of printed velvet, It is of the | new shade of red known as frambolse je French word for raspberry) which gives a very good idea of the tint, and has a little conventional pattern worked out in a metal spangle design. This forms the boy of the corsage and sleeves, while tho vest and flaring cavalier cuff are in white velvot with a little biack pinhead ot. Black vetvet buttons de orate tho vest and cuff. Tucks afford a fulness on the corsi dgaped into the narrow ceint the same idea {s used in the sleeves, where tucks extend down the arm and open Into a fuil puff avove the curt, The back 1s also sligntiy bloused above the waist line, giving a loose and easy ef- fect. Brass Buttons. The military jacket is the rage for women of slender figures. It is Sullt of oi z The New Skirts. Many skirts are plrited st, with nelther yoke nor stil confine the plaits, New skirts are trimmed with or bias pleces at the bottom, all the tule ness falling into the loose plaits in whieh) sleeve is a scant puff, coming to the elbow, where very bouffant ruffles of chiffon form a finish, ‘The skirt {e scugly fitted over the hips and then falls in full folds to the feet. The lace is appliqued in V patterns, and white chenille fringe spangled in gilt and crystal Is placed between the appliques. Full ruchings of four-f911 chiffon make a tluffy finieh at the foot, Tne under- skit has a shaved Paquin fiounce in aireloth to hold out the iuffy masses of chiffon at the foot. In the other the new double black chiffon 4s used us a foundation for the handsome, hand-worked embroidery in jet spangles and the stunning bead fringes, which are the chief feature of this handsome ball gown. The decol- Already on some of the imported a there fs a fexible wire in ¢ roind the bottom of the_ skirt.) keep the excessive material th Skirts made entirely ot Offer worn with tight basques boned in a pompadour point In front, are an 9)” extreme of fashion which every im@is — cation shows tends moro and more to © letage droops off the shou after] fine broadcloth or zibeline and 4s lavish- the early Victorian style, and the/iy trimmed with braid frogs, braid|an 1890 revival. Among new bese: corsage is simply gathered into a snug-] epaulettes and braid bindings. for wash waists are basket weaves | ly boned girdle of chiffon, The} The newest models show brass but-| white marked off into small squ os thread in @ with a colored ‘ Francts Wilson tn vival of fer the specialty. ““A Day in the South,” Peed Wend nae 5 hie, gba! ae the headline attraction @t Pastor's. | Museum. P wan haw decided to open le Fay, C th f his ‘Vaudevitie. ‘thes ° Sree al pata ane soon Sle, ft] BROOKLYN THEATRES. 1° [ms Osborn’s play-house in Forty- h| personator, will be on the bill at the eo Ditrichstein's farce “*Viviawy street, west of Ftth aveciue, on | Circle as” will be given at the Montai Weinosd evening, Oct. 21, when ho| Proctor'’s t : Marshall P, Wilder} “A_Milk White Flag” will be seen @t will present Mme. Gharlotte Wiehe and | will be the t the Twenty-third] the Columbia. her French company. All of the per-| street theatre; head Wilwon’* formances at ‘the Vaudeville are to be | will be played at Wfth avenue and! a>xeodore Thoman, |The Two Orphans” will pe the offering lat the Harlem house. McKee Rankin and company tn “Ole Virginia in 1572 French; in fact. it Is to be permanent French theatre for The plays will be short a’ jal to The Evening World.) CHICAGO, IL, Oct. 10. —Dheodi there will be several in each evenin: will be the headliner at the Newark| ., r 7 performance, Mme. Wiehe and her coms | house. Thomas will shortly assume, ebarge any arrive to-day on the ‘steamer | The Grand Opera Trio, Lydia Yea-| the numerous musical departments nected with the University of Chisago, Dr. Harper has long desired to the services of the celebrated: mi and the knowledge that be has tically succeeded will be hailed wit! by friends of the Rockefeller inat tlon. JUDGE’S WIFE DIES AT SEA Mrs. Tree, wife of Judge Lembott ‘Treo, the well-known jurist of and campbety United States Minister 6 Belgtun{ and Russla, died aboard’ he. steamer Campania while at sea Thaire- day ev oing. Her death was and unexpected, being due to Judge and Mrs. Tree wety rom @ Buropean trip, The @ody, taken at once to Chicago, Gatarrh is mans Titus and Ryan and Richfeld in “Mag Haggerty » Father" will be among the attractions at Hurtle & Seamon’s. A new waxwork group representing the scene afte: the death of Julius | Caesar vas been placed on view at the den Misour, Mile. Hort »hiladelphia, VAUDEVILLE OFFERINGS. Ned Wayburn's Minstrel Misses made such a hit at Kelthe that they to stay another week. R. J. Jose, the tenor, will be among the newcomers, Laura Comstock and company will of- ‘LA SAVOIE HAD A GOOD DAY AT SEA) New York’s Worst Day In Years According to the Ship’s Offi- cers Was:the Best Day of the Run:Aoross. e, in lving art studies, was about fourteen hours behind her record time. Mrs. Eleanor 8. T ackard, a daughter of Gon, Sherman, Game home on the Savole to attend’ the unveiling of a statue of her father in Washington. She t on a train for the capital soon after the boat docked. George Burroughs Torrey, the artist, who painted a portrait of the King of Greece, returned on the ship. Mr. (or~ rex has a commission to paint a picture of the Queen of Greece which he will begin in this studio here and go abroad Mater to complete from personal sittings. IRVING-COMES FOR A TOUR. ON, Oot. 10,—Sir Henry Irving and his theatrical company sailed to- day for New York on the Atlantic Transfort liner Minneapolis, Many friends agoompanied Gir Henry to the docks and were entertained at a fare-| The French tine steamer La Savole, rwhtoh arrived had bad weather from the ti ft Mavre, Her officers reportes that when they passed the Nantucket Lightahip yesterday the vessel was heading up into the gale and looked to them as though she stood on end. ‘The ship officers say that yesterday, at Sea was the best duy they had on the entire voyage, While here in New York we were getting a westerly squall ef yvcre running almest Wefore the wind. Dhoir worst” weather was Walle in the middle A) 1