The evening world. Newspaper, October 3, 1903, Page 7

Dressmaker ®. BY. MME. JUDICE, & "d Be If you wish advice concerning | fies new gowns or the making-over of $ | ‘old ones, if you wish advice concern- | "ing home ‘dressmaking, write to ‘Mme, Judice, Evening World, Pulit- zér Building, New. York City,” and wl ¢ will give it to you in this column. nnn An Evening Gown. Be Pear Mme. Judice: OW shall I make a beautiful even- ing gown of light blue crepe ae chine over light blue taffeta? I em twenty-one years of age, short and, im and have black hair. Does light fut go well with dark hair? Bust 3, Wiist 22. Kindly publish an attractive | Sesign. Would deep heavy lace, dyed ‘he same color of material, be pretty? GERTRUDE B, | Jel have designed an evening gown for Your light blue crepe de chine or any goft material and one most adapted to a Bhort, slender figure, for while the long Hines of the lace strips and plaits will heighten your appearance, ‘the triple box- plaits give breadth. The lace bands may jhe cream or self-colored. ‘Nhe collar and te edging and fancy girdle would be o CREPE SIGNED FOR B. TRUDE PB. EVENING GOWN DE. B. AND GER- to make me look stout, as I have 8 bust, 4 41 skirt and 42 hip. I am in mourning, so you see the dress has to be all black. Miss C. Smocking or corded shirring will have @ decided tendency toward making you appear stouter, and your pongee silk will lend itself gracefully to this treatment, Alave the cording as a detollete effect on the yoke, the entire upper portion of a very full, flowing open sleeve and about the hips rather deep on the skirt. A black chiffon yoke and iaide put ve with collar and cuffs Pad gill “and chiffon fancy Vous wut'give: ou e dainty’ all-black evening gown. To Remodel a Coat. Dear Mme. Judice: HAVE a coat of an exceptional qual- | ity of black qstrachan, I want to make it over for my little daughter, who is six years old. The coat has large puff sleeves and js nearly three Inches over my own waist iine in length, 90. there is plenty of material. I am afraid I cannot out ft for my daughter unless I have a pattern, and mest of those that I have looked over seem to ‘be so very complicated. I would like something plat but with a pointed hood, as I have some lovely cream- colored antique moire which would probably be pretty to line it with. M. Mac, By all means use a pattern. Select a plain Russian slip coat or @ Monte Carlo design, the age of your little girl, and after ripping out the sleeves and opening a shoulder end under arm seams: the paper, pattern the fur side next to the table or wrotty made of panne velvet, and hand- Re wolderes or self-toned chiffon band 6, embrofdered in deilcate flow- ‘@%, will make a pretty contrast. ‘Ihe earl “nail heads” joined by loops of Shienille cord the color of the lace you Gtolde on is a mode of trimming inctly novel and pretty, Bue Mull and Pearl. Dear Mme. Judice: OW can I make an evening dress of pale blue mull? I have some pearl trimming; do you think I can use I. would like something fluffy as I short and have @ thirty-four bust “Would also like hand work on the dress. B. B. The illustration designed for Gertrude B. will also answer all your require- e ments by a few changes in trimming. ¥ can substitute fancy handwork for lace strips and use your pearl trim- is on the square neck collar, sleeve and girdle instead of the panne ret. Picge chenille cords of the same the de au mull, held by nail hea most artistic iF] correspond beautiralls with your, irl trimming. | A Tailor-Made Suit. {Dear Mme, Juat NCLOSED please find a sample of oT goods, I am fifty years old, height & feet 1 inch, bust #4, waist 241-2, hips % inches; under arm, close to ghoulder, 9 inches. I would like a tallor- skirt and jacket. “Being @hort, would like advice concerning the patterns to be used and where they Must the skirt be lined, & swell as the jacket? Mrs. By. New Canaan, Conn, ‘Zour mixed tweed cloth will make up better an a strictly tailored sult, and very plain, with machine stitching as $ s wf a tat! u f the coat Flare Flounces of Satin. Dear Mme, Judice: I have a black brocaded skirt (eatin) with over-drapery, scalloped at the bot- you may desire, The seven-gored te best for your material, Have n Noor five ruffles at ¢he bottom, of point! d'esprit edged with shirrde ribben, and te. @ waist of point d’esprit made some ee pi r| fs point a iy unig seacined tor the skirt, ‘A Fancy Dress.” Sudice: THE WOR Tweed: eS, buxarious Furs in Smart Designs—Walking Costumes Have the Three-Quarter Coat and Are. Very Attractive—Many Novelties in Waists, Negligees and Reception Gowns— batest Fashion Notes. ITH every week the novelty and jjust falling below the jacket, and is beauty of the incoming fall styles lined with brocaded eatin In a very dell- increase, Fashion experts and cate shade of robin's-egg blue. The hat those women to whom shopping is an |1s,of the new shape, 0 much {n vogue, all-day pastime, declare that never be- jand the ermine dashes through the chin« fore has such ® bewildering array of \chilla make it very ohlc and attractive. winter novelties made thelr appearance |The combination of hat and stole is the simultaneously in New York shops, with iatest novelty of the season. every day fresh arrivals from Europe, A novelty waist, which carries out the are added to the galaxies of gowns on/ stole idea and indecd !s known as the view in the department stores. stole-cape waist, is made of a very In every department of feminine dress| effective vesting such as {1s used by the latest creations of American and| men's tailors for fancy waistcoats, of foreign designers vie with each other for|@ pale pink shade with a touch of black supremacy. In the luxurtous fur sets|in the pattern, which !s repeated with which only the wealthy woman can excellent effect in the plpings of the ford and the smart but comparatively| novel collar, the stole cape and the inexpensive cloth walking coats, the ex-| cuffs, ‘The front of the waist is laid pensive reception gown and the walking costume of moderate price the ingenulty of tatlors and dressmakera has been taxed. to produce beautiful novelties. The results, some of which are repro- duced here, show in what measure they have succeeded. ‘Watking costumes are, in great ma- jority, made with the three-quarter coat, ‘The modol illustrated 1s of dark brown tweed, showing a new snowflake effect, with ornamentations of brown velvet and smart, delicately incrusted gilt butto: The flat collar ts of brown velvet, edged with @ cording of brown and white, This velvet aleo edges the loose sleeve in a two-inch band and forms the smart, rect- angular tabs ornamenting the front. The coat is tight in ¢he back and semi-fitted in front, having single dart, Two wide straps of the goods ornament the shoulders and produce the broad effeot seen on all the most fashionable gowns. ‘These straps are finished with the gilt buttons, which also decorate the single- ‘breasted front, where they fasten under tabs of tweed. ‘The skint 1s walking length, finished with straps, and has a veteen binding at the edge, It piping used on the cape which produces the Inevitable broad-shouldered effect. as well as on the elaborate stock and the large gauntlet cuffs, 1s of black satin outlined with pink sll oord of the shade of the vesting. > For reception wear a gown direct from the workshop of the exclusive Raudnitz is pictured. It 1s of delicate mauve silk, with polka dot effect in ecru, Run- ning throughout {s a dainty pattern of ficld daisies and wheat sheaves in na- tural colors, The waist of this gown {s heavily appliqued with antique éeru lace. Straps of mauve velvet decorate the front and are held in place with gold medallions, ‘The graceful effect of tho sleeve is imparted by the cap on the upper part and the drapery of chiffon, The waist line shows the new French curve. The akirt reprotents a revival of the sweeping train, while the tucked inserted panel of silk {s une of the dom- inant effects of the most striking re- ception gown that has reached this country this season, the rose pink negligee which in acoord- Anoe.with the prevailing fashion is cut slightly decollete, A cape formed of the silk ornamented with three bands of dimwn work and applications of Oriental lace finishes the shoulders, The sleeves are tight to the elbow ornamented with drawn work and lace and are finished by draped flounces, where the drawn work is also used with exquisite effect. Hand exeouted| drawn work appears on each hom in a double row, The sheer French petticoat; worn’ beneath has a double circular flounce of lace and lawn. Fashion Notes. ALKING costumes are made with the three-quarter coat severely | man-tailored. Favorite materials are sivelines, tweeds and broken plaids in mannish mixtures, ‘The more elaborate tailor gowns, cut with the long skirt, are fashioned of broadcloth in plum, navy and piack, Brass buttons, ornaments and pen- dants are seen n some of the new — gowns, and constitute a striking are finished with the gilt buttons. accompanying turban is in brown and white, the rim deing of braided chenitie and the trimmings of brown velvet and white eatin, A very effective walking coat is built of the new and popular Venetian cloth in-light tam and ts trimmed with open- work braid in a dark red which shows the tan off to perfection. Dark red wilk pendants ere used for decorating the gatment, The coat is tight-fitting in the back and has @ double-breasted military effect in the front, is oaturht with a single button at the neck and {s heavily stitched with tan silk down the front and around the bottom of the coat. The double military capes lend attractiveness, while making tho gar- ment much more serviceable for the old season. The sleeve falls full from the shoulder to the wrist, where it is gathered into @ very clever puff effect and is held by « cuff trimmed with the openwork braid and vendants, Wor heavier wear the long fur atoles "aun ‘metal, plum color and brown are the leading fall ebades, with brown nost corte feoeg aten mayo N Equally beautiful in another style is! like snowflakes, whence it takes its name, Beaver hats load all others In popu- | larity at fasblonable miliners and de- partment stores. New shapes are a modified poke known as the Shaftesbury and a boat-shaped turban, nicknamed the Lipton, in honcr of the trish knight. Mole skin Is the newest and mom ex- pensive material which trims the fash+ fonable hat, A large number of the tiny sicins {s required to Ine the under brim, the purpose to which they are generally SATURDAY EVENING, OCTOBER 3, 1903. | Snowflake Tweed Dress Material and Stole Effects in Waists This Week’s Fashion Novelties, In double box plaited style, large pearl’ Wich comes in dull brown, navy, claret | dedicated, and a creation eo trimmed buttons holding down the plaits, ‘The 24 dlack, flecked with tiny white spectts | cannot be bought for less than 650. Head tps, as the tiny ostrich tips are known, are used in clusters instead of the long Gainsborough plume of last year, Another novelty in fashionable milll- nery Is the application of crocheted embroidered roses in use @ year agp. New Saxony flannels for winter waists show broad stripes in vivid contrast to | the white ground, Heavy cottons are much favored for winter wear, and beautiful shirt waiets are shown made of white mummy cloth Many Good Plays to Be Seen at New York and Brooklyn Theatres Marie Cahill, who has declared ther in- tention of forsaking musical oomedy next season and entering legitimate comedy, will play a week's engagement ‘Nancy Brown” at the Hariem Opera- House. ‘Dhe attraction at the Grand Opera- House will be the Irish character come- dian, George W. Qfonroa, in “Ths Widow Dooley’s Dream." One of the features is a song patterned after The Evening World's “Old Jokés’ Home.” The ancient jestes are represented by pretty girls and meet a deserved fate after being went across the footlights. ‘Rachel Goldstein,” the Theodore ‘Kramer play of which Louise Beaton te the star, will be at the Metropolis. Nat M. Wills in “A Son of Rest” will furnish amusement at the West End Theatre. 4 The Sar Theatre will have the best attraction of its season in ‘Jim Bludso." ‘The latest popular songs will be heard in “New York Day by Day” at the Third Avenue Theatre. Robie’s Knickerbockers will be at the Dewey. After next week John Drew and “Cap- tain Dieppe” will move from the Herald Square to the Empire, The opening performance of ‘Babes in Toyland" at the Majestic Theatre has been postponed until a week from Tuos~ day night, “The Wizard of Ox" ends its ffong ron to-night and next week tho house will bo dark, Jane Peyton, now with Willer Collier [ea ‘"Pergonal,” srill-on Monday; night am wume the role of Harriet Fordyce in “The Hari of Pawtucket,” which will terminate its run on Oot. 2. Other engagements which will be tinued are Tyrone Power and Rose Coghlan, in “Ulysses,” Garden; Edward Harrigan in “Under Cover,” Sfurray Hill Theatre; the English musical comedy, ‘Three Little Maids,” Daly's Fay Templeton, in ‘The Run- aways.” Casino; George Ade's “Pegsy from Paris, Wallack' Charnes Warner, in “Drink,” <Acatiemy of music; Andrew Mack, in “Arrah-na- Pogue,” Fourteenth Street Theatre: “The Rogers Brothers in London,’ in “The tre; ‘Ben Hur," New York; ‘“Whoop- Dee-Doo," Weber & Fields’ Maxine Billott, “Id Her Own Way,” Garitck; ‘Thomas Ross, in “Cheokers,'’ American. eee Sousa’s band will play at Camegie Hall to-morrow night. Mise Bstelle | worsted flowers in des'gns very dike the | | ence Reed and Malcolm Williams tn the gre, y with fronts ornamented with embrofdery | of coral velvet, which also foersiee the > in floral designs in white, coral and pale | bodice in fancy knots. blue, Carriage coats of chiffon velvet are tht Heavy black and white madras is an-| latest craze of the fashionable woman. other material of which the winter shirt} The Du Barry tie is the very “ied waists are fashioned. They are trimmed | women's oxfords. It 1s a ince tle with square china buttons and have} patent leather, with a very short fancy stocks with tumovers of lace or/and excessively high French heel. embrofdery in red, coral or blue. Stockings which show the tiny snow Fancy waists for reception and thea-/| ficke e!milar to that seen in the ned match | tre wear aro made of loulsine and taf-|tweeds come in colors to tht feta, with yokes and wide cliffs of hand-| gown. made lace. The stole effect rules everywhere, A French model fs of white mousse-| Stoles come tn lace, fur and ostricl line over taffeta, with bolero of white/ feathers, and are simulated on the fall Russian lace incrusted with tiny squares | waists, 2 s| Sir Alexander company in @ quaint sketch, “Ole Vir-/ bave represented the United States, ‘hag ginia in 1872," will be one of the attrac: | withdrawn from the international” cont tions at the Twenty-third Street Thea,| cert to be given Sunday night, for th¢ tre, ‘Ohristopher, Jr. will be revived | reason that the orchestra. has been unr at the Fifth Avenue Theatre, with Flor. | S0lc,(©,laur, ihe, Chines airs from Principal parts, fancy Hanks” wil be representative of Grea the offering at the Harlem house, with | Norwesian. Grieg, have also seas Land h leading | 7: woman, “In the Palace of the Kings | FOR TOM WALSH OR JIM GRAY, will be played at the Fifty-eighth Street | rs. Helen Herman, an inmate of the Theatre, Isabelle vesson appearing in| Calvary Home, No. 6 Perry street, ¢ the role created by Viola Allen. Charles | Hospital for inourables euffening fron T, Aldrich will head the iist at cne/ Cancer, has written to The vel i jos World in hope of the news of her lowark house, dition reaching brovher and Mister Tne Wright Huntington Company in| She aay in het leiter_ that et ast “Tue Salt Cellar” will be the headline | Was marri “Tom Wales attraction at Hurtig é& Seamon Tooeg ck Uves aes ie at King Kdwanl and President Loubet brother James ‘Gray abe ‘ayer feviewing the French at _Vin- | wood-timer by ‘He learned dennes. will be amon the 1 lnematogreph | fr views at the Eden ‘The King Brothers. wil loop the loop on Dieycles at Huber's Museum, de tenes would. lve to heat BROOKLYN THEATRES. Liebling, soprano; /Miss “Anna Otten, violinist, and Walter Rogers, gometist, will appear with the band. VAUDEVILLE ATTRACTIONS, Ned Wayburn's Minstrel Miewes, who were the big hit on the New York roof last summer, will be the ane tion at Keith's, Marte Dreasier wilt-head the pm at the programme of coun, aa David Warfield in “The Auctioneer” will be seen at the Montauk. “The Night of the Fourth” will be revived at the Columbia, GADSK! WOULDN'T SING.