The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 24, 1907, Page 14

ONE MUST BE PARTICULAR COURT PLASTER ABOUT THE. LINE 1 SERVES FOR THIN FABRICS fa season 1 the arrangement of her New Yorlk smart soc ete, sald this well-known dress- decollete. This aker. feminine charms are toe thing to strike 3 and precious to hide entirely, and ir eyes travel around the yet they must be displayed in the daint- gl shoe of boxes and and >st womanly fashlon pos- here and there to dhwell on a Di 1- sible. Well-bred women never offend palir of shoulder by their dress, and yet sometimes they k smart md out from all the rest like & su- to follow the fashions set by the perb gem su undked by inferior ones t actresses of this and foreign are impressed by thelr beauty Just at present the extreme of iecollete is the thing; the one in which gleaming flesh visible your eyes. Then, whether Mademoiselle Lina Cavalleri is usually you are man or woman, you will prob- seen is the favorite. To a slim figure ably make mental comment of the won- like Mademoiselle Cavalierl's it Is ex- Gerfulness of the fashionable decollete; tremely becoming. At the same time t displays feminine charms in & truly this very slimness presents difficulties marvelons manner, yet withal it is to the dressmaker which must be quite modest. Yom will end your men- Overcome by us in some way. We tal comment by asking yourself or any- must make the bodice low; frequently body handy, “Hbw do these womenswe must trim Iits upper part with heavy lace or passementerie; yet we manage 1t?" A perfectly natural ques- end one that has puszled many, but it proelaims an ignorance of the In- must manage to have it stay in place without any apparent assistance. Only @ eomtmamsqre-tos. too, the mysteries concealed in finitesimal folds of the society woman's newest opera bedice. To the uninitiated this latest wrin- kle is something to Inspire wonder, to say the least. Tts extreme out marks it st once an example of the exotis art Parisian modiste. To be worn 14 be worn with the chic and Int In of the properly it sho forelgn ligence of thess fashion leaders. all the world thers probably no soclety woman so re- nowned—and envied, too, to ® o ex- as la belle Parisienne for the way in which she wears her evening gown. 4 of hers to suggest & certain carelessness and disregard of bodice moorings. The more unattached it looks the better it seems to suit the ravish. ing woman. And the height of her de- in this realm of dress is to give observer the impression that its staying In place is not an affair for her « tiss to worry over. Fastidious women confine this wm- concern to the suggestion. The wise one knows that it heightens her charm to let her bodice appear to be on the point of slipping from the shoulders just & wee bit and of showing mere of the exquisite curve of bher arm. It far mome seductive than a bodice possessing every visible evidenoce of a firm and safe anchorage And it has long been & purzle to know how to ar- rive at the most fascinating peint of GF © POUND FLECTRIC SWI'TCH AND PLUG N no @iscovery of the last few years has public interest been so centered and retained asfin the application of electricity for domestic purposes. A year ago the first electrical house In Schenectady was the wonder of the world. Today there are several homes in the great electrical city and else- where wherein all the heating, cook- ing, lighting and power is supplied by electricity, and there are thousands of bouses partly equipped with the elec- trical devices. Invention and research bave been constantly at work perfecting new de- vices to be installed in the electrical homes. The three very latest utensils are the electric corn popper, the electric milk warmer and the electric shaving mug. These devices will be put on the market in a few weeks, and it Is prophesied that they will fill & long- felt want. Other important discoveries are the new tantalum and tungsten lamps. The new tantalum lamp has been in- troduced and perfected in this country by the General Electric Company, al- though it 18 & very recent German {n- vention. The new lamp has a filament composed of a rare metal (tantalum), capable of withstanding very high temperatures out of contact with air end giving & very brilliant white light. In construction and appearance the lamp differs but slightly from the com- mon incandescent lamp. The cost of the new lamp will be higher than that of the ordinary carbon filament lamp, suggestion and yet have sbsolute se- curity. The new bodice suggests the slipping perfectly, and 1t is cut es low as in- If 1t is provided with any sleeve or shoulder support dividusls can bear it this carries out the main esuggestion of carelessness and crosses the arm %o low that the entire curve of the shoul- der 1= exposed, together with five or six inches of the gleaming upper arm. When the fashionable morse! of a bod- ice has neither an excuse for a sleeve nor a band of almost invisible trim- ming then, Indeed. 1S the lay mind puzzled. How Is it pos- in Iteu of ene, sible, It asks, for mortal to wear the bodice where it really belongs without courting s catastrophe? The fact that women do wear decollete gowns of this perilous fashion end are quite serene in their abllity to evoid too great an exposure of statuesque shoulders is one of the mecrets of the modish decollete. How this is managed has been revealed by & dressmaker who learned a few of the clever arts and tricks of the falr Pgrisienne from mademoiselle herself. “A woman rejoicing in a beautiful throat, shoulders and bust is extremely BCTRITY UTENSILS JRON WITH COMBINATION «‘ireumakeu unaerstand the veal diffi- = 4 = o but this additieual eost will be saved several times oves by the consumer who pays, the meter bills. The tantalum lamp has the highest efficlency of any form of incandescent lamp, with one fexception. It hgs an average life of 760 hours on direct current, lights and extinguishes instantly, which the com- mon lamp does not, and reduces cost of Ughting to & mintmum. Stll later comes the new tungsten lamp, which is sald to be even more eMcient and economical than the tan- talum, the filament being a little bet- ter, but harder to secure. Of the host of electrical household utensils the mew corn popper is the daintiest of them all. Attach the con- nection with the slectric Hght socket, and the children can pop corn on the parlor table all day without the slight. est danger of harm. In a very few minutes after the switch s turned the mh:ot‘ctfihm&hon;:’ A:in cover kesps rapldly ng ker- nels fram fiying out on the floor, The popper {5 mounted on two small rubber-tired wheels, making it easily shaken. The whole Is vibrated with a short wooden handle. Nothing easfer or simpjer can be imagined in the ling STICKING " JPREPARATION i euity of arrlving at a happy so.utiom, and the schemes we rough the ald of our clients are ef- active at least. bone! have hit uppn First we try whale- In marny instances these an- swar roquirements perfectly. The point ‘of the bodice botween the arm gnd the bust There must be is boned in wriangular form. ro fness directly over the hust, as this is uncomfortable and fs apt to look awkward. “The’ front of the bodice 1s usually cut heart shaped gcross the top in or- der to increase the decollete effect, and the parts curving upward have to be made to retain their outline. This is not nqamcmz to manage as the sleeve part, which is apt to bind the arm and B It I ST ST TSR R EY S ZLECTRIC HEATED SHAVING CUP of a corn popper. The results sre far better than the old way of building a l;;d hot fire in thohkl:eh-:u?m p:nd suffer| from the heat W popping the e:;:n. With the 'electric ocorn Popper there can be no poor results if the corn is good. The new electric shaving mug will be welcomed with delight by traveling men. It is gmall enough to be readily S Heste . Wil sappiy il »i electric 1ig! the hot suds and ho water g”un draw the bodice If it is tight, and ye if it does not stay in place it spoils ti entire beauty of the gown. “I have found it practically impossi- ble to bone both bodice and sleeve, es- pecially when using chiffon or lace, and my only salvation has been in adopt- ing a scheme I learned from a French woman whose costumes were always the marvel and the envy of her sex. It was to use a bit of plaster, to be put on fresh each time the gown was worn. Court plaster will answer the purpose in cases where only the smallest sup- port {s needed acro: the bust, at the point of the arm or over the upper arm. It is invisible If a flesh tint is used and does not hurt the skin. The idea is an old one with chorus girls who wear diamond brooches and pendants fase tened to their necks without any visible wants to shave with. The soap disk is easily removed, which turns the ves- sel immediately into a half-pint water hester to put the finishing touches on the shave. 5 Another invention to become & necessity In almost every household where there is ons or more youngsters 1s the electric milk warmer. If the baby wants something to eat in m‘ms.uu:“-fi'm?m does, some one mi ) and warm milk on the stove, else there will ba no rest PASTE DOES FOR LACE AND CHIFFON FLECTRIC COFFEE which s destined means, making mn‘ ook e taorah they were caught inte Soclety women, of eo any such adorn themselves admi to mcheme when it comes to a quastion of a showing their handsome necks end shoulders. “One filmy lace bodice I made re- cently had no sleeves at all, only a tiny puft of chiffon crossing theé upper arm, which I thought would be sufficient to hide any little rubber stay that T need- ed to keep the sleeve in position and to assist In holding up the front of the bodice. It wopld not do, however, and as the woman finsisted on my Keepiag the arm band very thin and delicate I was moved to suggest her using a bit of adhe e ster. It worked like a charm, since then she ha use of it on many occasions. You buy it by the roll at the druggist’s, and can get it almost any width. A quarter of an inch is wide enough for the majority of bodices, and then only a bit of it is » and ma required to hold the bodice In place either side of the shoulder, front and back. A tiny strip is cut, and after the gown is put on ready for the final ad- justment the plaster is caught just inside the top wherever it needs sup- port. The other end, of the plaster is pressed against the flesh, ¥o which it adheres firmly. As there is compara- D T s T STEIE Y PERCOLATOR {h the House that might. Now all tuls is changed. A turn of a switch at the head of the bed, and the milk, made ready before retiring, is instantly heat- ing, and by the time papa has his feet in his slippers it is warm enough to be &ivsn to the child, » The electric chafing dish has been wonderfully improved, and the new utensil 1s the resuit of careful study and experiment. Welsh rarebits a la elec- tricity are now easy enough. The new dish is of handsome design, and once connected with the electric light socket the simple thrcwl.%ot a switch, pre- pares it for imm te use. Theéra Is no flame, soot, useless heat, danger or siving out of “alcohol” at the “eritical moment. the electrical utensils which the General Elgctrioc Company has perfected tha electric coffee per colator is by far the best. Coffee drink- ing is universal, and in every land it is made differently. Men who have traveled ‘in this country are ready to take oath that it is also made differ- ently in every hotel and eating place on this contiment. With the electric percalator it can be made but, one way, and that is the best way. device is very simple. The steam :generated under the bell valva forces the water and steam n{ through the. tube into the glass globe, where it falls in the form of & fine hot spray on the ground coffee and percolates back into the reservoir. The main featu: simplicity in operation and.the perfect control of the heat. The coffes canpot T 'S WORTH SUFFERING FOR Tvary m» weirme et all "o & Doates of . romwdally to the upper part, iz mot gull the fleskh and all it dees kaep the gown In place “I have sesn womaen, however, who resort ‘o this scheme to keep heavy pallletisd Sodices whers they belong. and then I do wonder at thelr fort!- tude. Jet and pailisttes are always = source of trouble to us dressmakers when they are made up inte evening gowns, especially if the gowns are to have & very decc ne and ban- deau across the arm. Even whalebones are not iently strong to keep _She outline perfect in most cases, and an I dislike increasing the weight of the bodice even %0 ch as the few alebone. A very e told me that the smart ¢ only way she could keep her palllette lice in order was to fasten & narrow strip of adhesive plaster around the shoulders and a bust. This she had provided with eyelets, and after it was on she heooked the tep of the bodice in the eyelets. That seems like a rather hereoic sc e, but she said it worked beautifull “Does it hurt to pull the plaster off* It does not get such a firm hold that there is danger of taking the skin with it. The small pieces are no more than so much court plaster.y In fact they sometimes come off more [readily when treated properly. The advantage of the adhesive kind is that heal does not rob it of its virtue. One may dance and get quite .warm without any danger of speiling the adhesive properties of the plaster. ' While it m it is per- fectly pliatde and cannot possibly ship It it were r t would be a most rrangement, but as i not against X d is naturall the Tiere is a special pure white ve t is somethig <o d used in the stiffening of Shaer s and fabries—w answers very for cert oceas this stick- 'tng fad. For ace. if a little square of adhe3 ve plast @ the shou! ders o dab of t nay be put on the:inside of ce top and then pressed to t side of the plaster so tha a frill of lace or place. “Only slender, svelte fizures should sttempt-the new decolletc. It is spe- clally adapted to their « 1s and can be cut very low wit ng tmmod ML Above all, not be tigh or.binding in the slightest across the top, for as scon as it appears to draw or to confine the shoulders and bust its gracefulness deg ed. It must look as though it was being held Mn place by some magical art—that !s halt the beauty of this exqul Mile. Cavaller! is looked upon as the high priestess of this decollete cult. All ©of her gowns are cut extramely low; somse of them have no sleeves at all and no apparent support for the upper part. Her costumes are built upon the same plan whenever it is feasible, and ona of ‘ them has filled the wom f two con tinents with wonder. This is a gown made in the fashion of a century er more ago. The neck is ecut low, and from the point of the arms fall sleeves of neo small proportions, thelr upper » forming a curve that crosses the ajfm just a little above the elbow. There seems to be nothing holding them in place and the entire upper part of the figure, as well as the daintily roundea shoulder, is unhamperea by so muech as a jeweled band. It is a style very becoming to her slim fig A woman of larger proportions would look alto- gether too decollete, but the opera singer suggests a living statue draped to balf reveal, halt cemceal, her fairesg charms. L e —— boll or “cook.” In no other way caa 1t be made so good, retaining its sweet aroma, its strength and color, as in the percolator. ‘Wonderful indeed are the prophec! which the electrical inventors In General Electric ing. Their state dreams of Bellamy, men insist that their forecasts come true in a very few years. T speak of fast electrical trains;ac the continent, electrical hom sl trical air ships, new electr and surgieal instruments. greater el trical power, etc. Above all, the ventors are experimenting %o electrical heating, lighting, cooking power as cheap as possible and to these convenl and within the resch