The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 30, 1906, Page 11

T THIS time of the year, when the season for dances begins, end, in fact, when the social season is well started, there more demand, if possible, than at any other time of year for new models in evening gowns, while opera wraps are & necessity. It would seem as though there could not be any very marked ange in style in the evening gowns for winter or summer, &3 any member of the smart set well understands. To begin with, unless for & season st New- port, summer evening gowns are mnot so elaborate in detail as those Intended the winter, when entertainments ere of 2 more formal order, and when the opera, dinners and private dances efford an excellent opportunity for the display of superd gowns, when rich es and brocades and the handsomest f jewels are required and shown off 2t the greatest possible advantage There has been a great deal of dis- cussion as to whether the Empire style d be adopted. One or two of the ng houses in Paris have most con- tently continued to bring forward gowns made after this model, insisting that in time the public would be edu- cated to the besutiesof it. It has been 2 hard struggle to convince the general public, but nevertheless the struggle has not been in wvain, for more and more is this marked style of dress be- coming popular, and now it is no longer 0 modified, although it never has been #nd never will be adopted In its per- fection, that is, In exact copy of the gowns that were worn at the time of the first empire. There are few women who are so formed that they look well in the un- sdulterated empire style, and conse- quently there must needs be the modifi- cations in lines and trimmings to make the style becoming and smart, but, as has been seen, the dressmakers have conquered the first difficulties and now model is an extremely smart and ctive one. It is made up in all rials—in satin, soft finished silks, chiffon velvet and in ail the hundred end one thin materials as well. Oc- casionally the idea is carried out by the trimming instead of in the mater- ial. Long streamers of ribbon or velvet or tulle starting from the shoulders and falling to the hem of the gown give the same lines, provided that the cut correctly at the side longer is it comsidered te to have the heavy band of em- jery across the bust, with frills or but there are berthas and fichus of net and tulle t are put on, just es though the waists were the same as when the skirt snd waist were the faskion, instead of the empire or princess, which has the skirt and walst in ene. Plain Satin Gowns Satin is & fevorite material this win- ter for evening gowns, both for young girls and for older women. It is vastly more practies! for & dancing gown than sre the thinner materials, that so soon become torn and A satin gown will last far longer than one of met or tulle or even of chiffon, thet much enduring materials. Skirts &re not trimmed, but are plain, as & rule, excepting for the way in which they sre made. This rether compli- cated in tue jon, but there are for lace, many gores or panels let In or there are bands of the same put on in foids or curved lines, or in such fashion as to form a trimming of the material itself. The heavier satins are often richly embroidered with paillettes of siiver, gold or iridescent beads. The embroid- ery is worked on the satin itself, and the designs are more or less original, not stiff and conservative, but mgre on the flowered order. There are superb trimmings of passementerie or jewelled or beaded nets and laces. These trim satins effectively, but are quite as ex- pensive as the embroidery on the satin, and somehow do not seem to be smart, although of course this is mere- Iy a matter of choice, and certainly to find any fault with such trimmings as are now to be had would be nothing short of carping criticism. The combination of coloring as car- ried out In trimmings and mategials is this year most effective and generally most attractive. The soft, clinging nets, chiffons or gauzes that are fin- fshed at the hem with wide bands of velvet, heavy embroidery, or have bands of the embroldered velvet down the back, afford an opportunity for a most harmenious blending of col- ors, as the embroideries on the velvet are in the same tone as the material of the gown, only & shade or two darker. This detafl adds immensely to the beauty of the gown, and If care is taken that a becoming color is chosen it is difficult to imagine anything more satisfactory than the effect of the whole thing. Opera wraps this year are varied in design. Fortunately there are so many designs that it is possible for every- body’s taste to be satisfied, and at the O MANY different styles of gowns are considered essential in the ‘wardrobe of the fashionable wom- an of today that it is nerd to de- cide upon the models that shall be most effective and becoming. Fortunately the designs are as a rule so distinctive that there is not much danger of con- fusing them, and that is some guide and help. There are many charming simple gowns that are quite possible for street as well as house wear, and although the material seems better suited to another season of the year the long coat that is such a favorite of fashion thls winter makes any ma- terial suitable and appropriate, no mat- ter what may be the temperature. Street gowns are not worn In the house, and even the most elaborate of cloth gowns, which are really intended to be part of a costume, are no longer considered suitable for house wear. a gowns are, as is well known, such elab- orate and intricate garments that they, too, are unsultable for general house wear. Conséquently these more simple gowns are In great demand, and, in fact, many women pay more attention to them than to any others in their - entire outfit. Velvet is extremely popular material this season, and the different qualities or weaves thereof make it quite os- sible for indoor as well as street wear, especially when & transparent lace yoke and elbow gleeves are part of the model. Most becoming and charming CHIFFON EMPRE GOWN WTTH SPANGLED BANDD same time for a lot of originality to be displayed. The materials are of every- thing that can be imagined; in fact, there does not seem to be any “cut and dried” law as to what shall be used. There are silks and satins and velvets and cloth, and fur and lace and chiffo and among them all are most wonder- are these velvet gowns, both In light and dark colors, with their exagger- atedly simple lines—for simple lines are insisted upon—those simple lines that are the despair of the poor dress- maker, who has hitherto been content to have skirts hang fairly well and to cover up any defects by trimming. The plain untrimmed skirts demand a per- fection of cut, fit and hang that shows off to the greatest advantage a good :!znrn, but they do require careful mak- ng. A band'of trimming just around the foot is a great addition and is a fa- vorite fashion with almost all mate- rials. On the velvet the band may be of satin or embroidery. On cloth or - silk it may be and indeed is most ef fective in velvet. The width of the band is determined by what is the most becoming, the broad or the narrow band; the less attractive flounce is but another rendering of the same idea,-be it _understood, and is certainly s most effective finish. In two shades of cloth or satin this band, or flounce, is always charmingly effective, but it must be remembered that if & wide flounce is contemplated the contrast of color or rial on a skirt will always have effect of making the wearer look short and stout, and in these days to be short and stout is not to be fash- fonable. . Extremely simple, too, are the lfnes “m:""fi"".“"::“, the favorite model an ‘walking gown. The outlines figure, ful colorings and most beautiful de- signs, and often three or four different materials are combined. Then thers is a great variaty of shapes to choose from. There is a long, half-fitting, loose coat that is extremely smart and graceful with its full back and its wide-hanging sleeves. This in plain rowe- Dt e e e s e e e S g e NEW IDEAS IN VELVET, SILK AND CHIFFON GOWNS FOR AFTERNOON although there is a little fullness di- rectly in front. The square or round transparent type is outlineqa with a band of embroidery to match the trim- ming on the skirt, and there may or may not be fancy buttons and a fancy Jeweled buckle to fasten the satin belt. The sleeves, elbow length, are finished with a band of the trimming and a cuft of the lace to match the yoke. In sap- phire velvet this Is a most attractive form. If so desired it can be made more practical if there be a short jacket of the velvet to transform it into a street costume, and this in spite of its being designed originally for an indoor gown. x Chiffon cloth, 1ike chiffon velvet, is a material greatly In demand, and while ‘the fancy nets and veilings are by no means out of fashion for the moment they are not so popular. - Chiffon cloth made’ up Wwith cloth of the shade is an attractive material, for it can easily be made to fit and hang ‘satis- factorily and the exaggeratedly wide skirts of it take up so much less room than do the heavier fabrics, that 1t is much easter to have the skirt fit close over the hips and then flare out wide than when cloth or even the light welight satin or velvet is used. Elaborate trimmings of cloth, silk, velvet and lace are bined with chiffon cloth, to be made up too plain. Bilk and AT R S ity material of the richest description 13 almost invariably becoming to the fig- ure, while the handsomest of fur col- lars sets It off to great advauntage. Then there is the loose wide wrap, that is more of a cloak than a coat, bor- dered with embroidery or fur or lined throughout with fur. It is like a wide if the two materials are combined ac- cording to the latest dictates of fashion to decide which is which, so cleverly are they put together. Pale grays, tans and the light pastel pinks and yvellows are favorite colors, while the old, nattier blue i{s charm- ingly effective. There is not much op- portunity in this model of a gown to introduce much lace, but the yoke and cuffs are sufficient to make the color more becoming, for often the pale col- ors that at present are the most fash- fonable are not becoming. It is pos- sible also to introduce a little touch of some color that is becoming in a fold of velvet, cutting the robe in a narrow walstcoat effect. Fancy buttons or buckles add greatly to the finished ef- fect of these gowns, and in truth the attention to detail that {s so essential in all modern dress cannot above all be neglected here; troublesome as it is to always be looking after the details, it 1s worth taking the trouble, for an unbecoming color will absolutely spoil the prettiest gown ever turned out and the lace or crochet in trimming works a positive miracle of transformation. ‘There are so many exquisite shades of color this season that are effective and becoming in velvets and trimmings that there 1s very little excuse for not being becomingly gowned i This is strely an age of the world Tpportentty to exercise thetr talents in epportunity to ne ‘talents "E:::"' ects. The sbsolutely iines that are such efrenlar cape, one end of which can be thrown over the shoulders, and often there iIs a hood attached to it. It is de- cldedly picturesque and graceful. but extremely difficult to make, and yet so becoming that it is not marvelous it is & popular style. More and more are fur garments of every description desired by the fash- fonable woman. In this climate, In fact in all climates, the winter season has many days when fur is a necessity to comfort, and especially In any wrap that™is to be worn over an evening gown. There is no hard and fixed rule as to whether the fur shall be on the inside or outside of the garment; that now is merely a matter of taste. An ermine coat of great value can be trimmed with the handsomest of lace and lined throughout with white vel- vet, or matters may be reversed, and a coat of white velvet may be lined with ermine and have merely a jabat of lace. The same rule applies to all kinds of fur; it can be worn as a lining to cloth or velvet or lace, or it can be put out- side, while the other materials will then serve as a lining. Again It is the Indi- vidual's taste that decides the question, and if the garment possesses the de- sired warmth and at the same time looks smart, no fault can be found. In this matter of being warmly clothed the fashion has greatly changed of late years, and it is now apparently requi- site to be warmly clad at all times. It is now considered unfashionable as well as unbecoming to look cold—another proof that the question. of dress is be- coming more of a science than ever. Berthas on Evening Gowns The pointed bertha on the evening gown is again In style and the empire models are oftener made in this design than in the flat embroidery. The wide drooping pieces over the tops of the sleeves can be best attained by these fichus, for they are so cut that they form the top of the sleeve, leaving only necessary a puff of lace or net. These fichus are finished at the back either with three small bows and tiny rhine- atone buckles, or with long streamers of ribbon that fall to the hem of the skirt. Often, too, the ribbon is put on to give the empire lina by being brought from the front of the walst to the back of the shoulders. Again the ribbon is most cleverly adjusted so that in front there are two widths that are put together in folds and fastened with a feature of many of the styles have chic rivals in these superdb and elabor- ate trimmings that are so lavishly used this season. Often do the trimmings cost far more than the materials in the gown, and the color schemes and the contrasts that are worked out by them are without end. Again, by the use of. these trimmings the familiar straight lines can be ‘evolved from a most intricate skirt. For Instancs, with flounces or wide pleatings it is perfect- 1y possible to use the straight line and trimming extensively from walstband to hem, while en the waist the same lines are repeated or put on in mest instances to join wtihout break the lines on the skirt.. The princess and empire lects can be suggested and, indeed, nsifiled by the trimmings. There can be lines cutting the figure, and then across the upper part of the ‘walst can be the hand trimming again to give the empire line and the effect of the high b enteries, bralds, embroldered satin and velvet bands and bias bands of plain cloth, velvet, silk or satin are all in fashion, and the variety of coler- ing and design has surely never been surpassed. The entire deux of lace sertion and batiste embroidery of the finest description are still to be seen made up with the silkc chiffon and met gowns, but these can hirdly be classed under the same head as the gowns de- scribed. For them the heavier laces and embroideries ere more in demand aad far more suitsble. - # SATIN AND LACE VODPIED EMPIRE an effective rhinestone buttom, and the ribbon goes over the where it is cagght together and fastened with the same buckles. Plain ribbons and satin or velvet are the flower designs are more associated with summer gowns, and alithough there is not such a marked difference summer and winter styles as there was a few years ago, it is obligatory that there should be some points that are dissimilar. The spangled nets and laces are charmingly attractive this winter sad have apparently taken a new lease of life, a3 they are in constant demand for ball gowns.. They are made up more elaborately than ever, and thalin- ings often cost as much as the gowns themselves. A lace gown which Ras only the border embroidered or spam- gled will be made over a lining of spangled net—no pattern net, but.slm- ply the spangled effect. A spangled gown of open design will be made over a lace skirt, and the pattern of the lace blends In indescribably harmonious.ef- fect with the net. The cloth of gold or silver linings under the pale colored chiffon give a sheen that is impossible to describe or secure in a materfal it- 1f. Hand painted nets and chiffens ow off to greatest advantage agalhast such a background, attaining thereby a depth of coloring that the silk of Sat- in could not possibly give. Chiffon panne and mirror velvet are heavier fabrics than are generally asso- clated with the Idea of ball govwns, but they are none the less immengely fashionable at the moment; the celer- ings are charming and apparently wm=- limited in variety, so that it is possthle to have a wide choice. The pale shades of pink, blue, mauve and yellow andthe bertha of satin are embroidered.. in flowers of the same color or some divect contrast. Thers are two or three. new shades of yellow that are popular-this season, and that are most becoming. one reason being the depth and warmth of tome; this peculiarity iy shown to the best advantage In the velvet, neither satin nor silk giving at all the same effect. The white panne or chiffon-vel~ vets also possess this attractiom, for the material apparently attracts ter it= self strange lights and shadows “that are most artistic. For the opers orfor any formal entertainment eveling gowns of the velvet are consequemtly most effective. i i Long trained skirts are oddly enough not considered appropriate with this style of gown, but of course a skirt is quite impossible. A m length and round skirt is the correct style, and the sides and front must also be long—long enough to lie on the ground. This might be thought yne graceful, but it is not, and women have now become so accustomed to the long at the sides and in front that they know better how to manage withgut stepping on them. Plenty of fullness sround the hem of the skirt, a wide lining, with bias attached flounce and tucked flounces of chiffon or mous- sellne de sole, hold out the skirt and give the finished appearance that is such a marked characteristic of the * smart gown of today. It has become the custom this year to have quite a difference im-! finish of the different styles of The street gown is often made lining and depends upon the for any flare or finish of the lining. give the desired tiare, for, no how simple the design of a skirt be, it must never be so cut tha “hangs In™ around the hem. be worn in the house are always elaborately finished as regards the. ing and nave, as nas already bsen flounces and ruffles of silk seline de sole. while in the