The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 17, 1906, Page 6

FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. PARIS FASHIONS IN PRACTICAL SHORT SKIRTS £, COAT FOR TRAVELLING ¢ KNOCKABODIT COSTOMES WHITE WOOLEN GOWNS. elaborately p ate wais g g e elaborate linger ses at are so essential in the SHORT JACK STILL POPULAR. it mig of short j E weir ap- pe € sharply that little jacket rt devise variety in e mod- but ave » the fashions that names ev it, and y are has v -shape made its appear- roved attractive enough es out of fashion any #tyle of this roadcast over th certain to come to moment. but popular d that it is de- fact, that a woman gofg t of some kind, for h1 =ilk worn the most could make it good 1o be seem in that 4 se weather shion this season in tumes is seen in the col- ¥ fronts that to the color . or the m; f t The embreid- ery on these fronts is en most ex- < design and color, and adds the beauty of the cos- ain the fashion of white fronts is to be noted as 1y becoming and attract- istcoats transferm a sim- s or ive ese W ple costume into quite an eiaberate one. ance. a blue mehair or serge that ply made ean, by the ¥ waistcoat, look like more. elaborate gown than if waistcoat were omitted. White cloth fronts, without any trim- & and showing just at the edge of € coat, are, as & rule, very becoming, as are also those made of white silk and meire, trimed with rufes of nar. row yellow lace put om very flat. If a strong comtrast in color is deSired, then the Persian embroidery can be used or some selid coler, such as a deep rose or yel T? with fancy buttons, completely transforms the jacket. It will be noticed that this style is used on all materials, whether they be heavy or light, either in texture or color. Striped Gy E‘_hg‘d. signs. The fine check is still a great favorite, and is made up trinfmed with bands of cloth or ribbon, or in some instances with velvet ribbon around the foot of the on the short jack One model has quite a lot braic the ¢ no brai Another has the while the is almost pla cepting in the the braid that ed being a fancy ohair about neh In width outlined with a narrow soutache rule the trimming is put on the j not the skirts, but th sent z for buttons has apparently been too much for some tailors ssmale who use them on the skirts in a m curious fashion that is eff ve if at the same time rath foolish. SHORT SKIRT MUST HANG WE Perfection of cut and fit and hang demanded of the short skirt. It needs define th the hips and vet at the back and must clearly figure 1t fullness below the s 10 a wide flare. The circular model is a great favorite, in spite of well- known tendency to , but then it is claimed ry difficult to obviate this fau tify it, when the skirt become long and uneven in front, or two box pleats and at the back, with circular ke a good skirt, it thought, but it may be questioned if there ever were a mere becoming fashion thanm the pleated circular skirt. It is odd to no- tice how few skirts there are that hav not pleats introduced into them where or other. an absolute r to rec- has drooped or Two inverted some plain skirt is a decided novelty, and requires | not only the most perfect execution but that it shall be worn by a perfect fig- ure. Velling costumes are aimost pre- cisely on the same lines as the mohair, and the very thinnest quality is worn, | as well as the heavier textures. Among ready-made costumes in veiling there are often great bargains to be found, for the material is not of necessity ex- modern fashions are might be pensive and the not- al thought. Corselet skirts and prin are still to we seen, but it w ticed that most of the short coats are sys s0 complex as worn with the ordinary style of skirt| and that the empire, princess and cor- selet gown are made up either in most | elzborate fashien or under painful dis- advantages of poor workmanship and impossibly bad fit. There is something about the little jacket fashionable now | that is certainly unusually smart and | trim. There are a number of designs One of the most fasmienable fabrics |that are quite loose, but in the majer- ©f the season is the figured mohair in &ll one color. There gre a number of Gifferent shades, and amy number of de. ) fashionable two or three years ago, ity of cases there is an evident return to the close-fitted styles that were » and around 4 | | | | o S G U T— Sutling : when fastened many of these packets| fit as closely as does the waist of the| gown. Lingerie collars and cuffs seem | in keeping with ..e season and make | such materials as plain mohair, serge | or light-weight cloth seem very €mart| and fashionable. priate or ed materials. pique colla work on These look best with| and cuffs. The lingerie! batiste, lawn or lace, such as has been described, makes a charming | variety, and now that ecru Is coming into favor again and odd bits of lace| are being brought out that have the| ellowish tone that only old lace has a great rivailry as to who ve the most effective lingerie ven with the white blouse a coat trimmed in this fashion looks well and quite tinet from any style that | has been fashionable for seme time. IMPORTANCE OF BUTTON The important part which buttons play in the details of a fashionable cos- tume can hardly be realized until the subject of dress is thoroughly gone into. The variety in size, shape and color is practically endless, and it is as- | tonishing what charming contrasts of | color can be obtained and what effect- ive trimmings can be got up entirely | through buttons. There are enamel buttons (incidentally a great many | china ones), bone buttons, smoked pearl buttons, cloth covered buttons, gilt, | steel, rhinestone and jet buttons, and | in every conceivable size. Putting sev- | eral buttons in clusters seems to be aj fad, and although it is rather an incon- gruous fad. anything that is effective = muster, and certainly this, as | has been said, is effective. And yet | with it all no gowns are made to but- ton; they all hook, and jackets also hook, and in such fashion that the fast- ening does not show. On collars and cuffs rows of tiny buttons are used, wiile both collars and cuffs are fast- ened with hooks and loops, although the buttons have apparently loops for themselves. Even the simplest of these street gowns ar ornamented, in many instances by several dozen buttons. Conservative taste is rapidly becom- ing very prevalent, however, and it is extremely interesting to note the grow- ing demand for extremely simple fash- ions of all kinds, especially when In- tended for street wear. The-chances are by next winter there will be quite a revolution in many respects as re- | gards dress. As an example of quick | revolution in dress take the matter of bats aione. At the beginning of the season they could not be small enough; |as the summer advances there is no |limit to the size, which grows apace un- | til we are threatened with an epidemic {of the most enormous monstrosities. So 'ia choosing materials ar moadols tes | | wear and | comfort to start out enveloped in some Plaid Mohsur Gown | clothes it is always wisest, ana espe- | | cially at the moment, to see if among all the hundreds of fashions exhibited there cannot be found something that is smart and becoming without being conspicuous either for its color or | shape: and when trimming is used that shall not be conspicuous, either, except for its beauty. GOOD LINES NECESSARY. Even the most untralned taste in clines toward good lines rather than to yards and yards of gaudy trimming on ‘a badly and badly hung skirt. And with this button craze it is well to choose carefully before covering the skirt of what otherwise would be a smart but simple gown with so many buttons as to make the wearer look like an advertisement for that particu- lar style. As a happy medium between the very short coat and the long one there is one style that never goes out of fashion— | the medium length three-quarter coat of tweed, cheviot or serge, with pleated or circular skirt made short enough to clear the ground well. This is one of the most popular styles for country | the most useful for lo and from year to year stays | journey in fashion. There is no telling as to whether it is vanity or common sense that has in- duced womankind to rise in revolt | against the idea of being made hideous | carieatures in order to go motoring, or | a-motoring, as it is now called. When | the sport was first introduced it was apparently absolutely necessa to | hideous was that garment whose only excuse it shed the dust, while the| head w completely covered with a | thick- veil that was tied on in such | fashion as to make the most beautiful | woman in the world look hideous enough to pose as a freak in a dime | museum. The hat chosen had never | a rule it was of a large brim, and the effort made to hold it in pla with the heavy veil simply added to the discomfort of the wearer as well as to the hideous appearance. In truth it seemed absolutely impossible for a woman to look smart or becomingly gowned even_ if she were only to go a short distance In what was then called | ant automobile. Now, when a party of people start oft on a trip, short or long, the women look as smart and becomingly gowned as though they were about to start off for a drive in their own traps. and while of course too elaborate a style of | dress is not attractive, there no longer any reason why hideous gar- ments should be foisted upon the com- munity. A small hat has been found the most comfortable to wear, and there are no end of small hats to be had. It is best to have a shape over which a veil can be tied, and it is more comfortable to have a shape that has not a wide brim at the back. But the veil can now be put on in such fashion as to cover the hat and head and yet not be drawn down in thick folds and tied under the chin. There are one or two capital styles of vell that go over the entire head, tie either at the back or front, or are left hanging loose. In these the goggles can be sewn, and the material of the veil can be thick enough really to protect the hat. TAILORED STYLES FOR LONG TRIPS Phere is no special style of dress ab- solutely necessary in motoring, but of course is a long trip is to be taken any sensible woman will choose carefull some sensible, practical costume on the tallor-made order, such as will not easily be injured by wind or dust, or| one of the long coats that are so be- tremely attractive and bedoming. In taking a long motor trip the fact must be faced that there will be no ®nd of dust and dirt, consequently such m terials as are not easily injured by the They are not appro-|any reference to the wearer or to the |dust are the best to choose, and the effective on the heavier fig-| purpose for which it was worn, for as | long coat should be made in such a way T Blb.clk Topffe b DL With White ClothWaistcoap / enter. There should be a band at the throat that is fastened tight, also bands at the wrist to hold in the sleeves, it is most disagreeable to have the dust work in between the coat and the gown. Three-quarter length coats or wraps are preferred by many women to the very long ones, but a medium iength is generally the most practical and rat the smartest, while the long one does with the necessity for a dust cover. A long motor coat is indispen- sable for general use, that is, for going out on short trips or when the at bile is used instead of the family ¢ riage, to do duty as an evening wrap. Dame Fashion has recognized that this especial state of affairs called for a special lot of new fashions, and conse- quently there are quite a number of different shapes to choose from, while as for materials, they aregegion. The | silk finished coats are fascinating; the colors are so good, and the shapes are excellent. At almost all the large de- establishments, these coats are to be had in all the fashionable colors, and while they are perfection, they certainly have refer- :nce to the individual wearer. Both the | Directoire and Empire styles are popu- tar, while the long coat with fitted yoke over the shoulders, from which the ma- \.terial hangs loose in double box pleats {2t the back and in a straight front, is most orten seen. Most of s are double breasted. and of them have velvet collar and Others agam have simply the t collar and tane turn-backed silk | many cuffs. velve cuffs. | BRIGHT REDS AND BLUES. The colors are, as has been said, of | every hue. Most fashionable at the me- | ment seem to be red and blue, in bright shades, with white or biscuit color. There are a few greens, but these are | too conspicuous, and black is not espe- ~ially popular, although rather smart. size, with wide | as to leave no crevices for the dust tc | Jne reason for it not being so popular Bloe Sear Erxnlorou partment shops, as well as at private | not supposed to fit to| is, of course, t} more than the lig seems to hurt it these materials are dust proof. It migh jection would be made on tt | the velvet collar, but, strangely anoug it has not been, and the collar looks very well. Pongee color, or pengee in i patural color. at favorite this year, and t of pongee they are very smart and dust coats and th wear fc are made on the same finished rubber ones, are trimmed In the same way and have fancy buttons more often than do the rubber coats. Many of the pongees are made with shoulder capes, two or three short ones or one long one, and this cape is de- ble, so that in extremely hot ier the coat can be worn without | The pongee coats have often bright | contrasts of color in pipings of red or | blue. This, of course, could not be used to advantage on the rubber-finished silk ones, and, after all, while it is ef- fective, does not seem to be so smart as the plain coat, which challenges at- tention by its good cut and graceful lines, and which somehow seems in keeping with everything, just as does the severe lines of the riding habit. It is contended that a pongee wrap of this sort is one of the most economical garments that can be purchased, for it can be worn on so many different occa- sions and is perfectly possible for a {light summer evening wrap, so that when economy has to be consulted the |pongee coat is generally chosen. In |these days, when colored pongees are se | fashionable, there are many ceolored pongee coats of this style to be seenm, | but while they are smart and becom= | Ing. somehow they rather lack the good lpoin!! of the natural color, and cere tainly they do not wear so weil. Honk! honk! We're out for a flight, Watch us fly swiftly by! The chauffeur is king of them all We are lords of the road and most of the arr. No others have rights, and what do we care? Our motto is “Death!’ and our mission is “scare. Honk! honk! See multitudes fall) ’\5&“\(\_ HO), CHORUS. AL s/ Noiselessly we glide oer /. / Eagerly we tum the ¥e can snatch the hen we tangle up You_can follow her trail Who dares to hamper her sway? “To her nations bend as she keeps on her course. Ha! stop her who may with the cry “Get a horsel™ hat boots it that men ng! There she goes! “And the human on the avenue and byway Might as well be’picking out his harp. ‘puattling infant from its nurse’s arms, /& The cripple, bent and aged, is our prey, life to us is sweetest, and we do the job completest we .ningle with the midriff of the jay Honk! honk! Who denies that the Car is the Queen ¥ Who scatters a largess of stale gasolene? She dashes and flashes, while all stand agape, She's taking ‘her tribute to-day. CHQRUS. SONG OF THE SCORCHING™ CHAUFFEURS. Clear the way for the automobile! Honk! honk! Let us ride till our brams are a-reel on this beauteous dav. Get out of the wayl the highway, corners Sharp, the awhiskers of the fearful_ 13y, by the fluttering of crape may get little sore on her? Now send for the coroner— «* ‘\(( g) ‘.