The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 10, 1906, Page 8

v P CREPE JE CHINE. Croown— Marebout and Osirich Teather Boas to Match the Color of tlze » Gown.the Seasons fad 1 N 4 > it and if a touch of different color is needed it can very edsily be obtained in the ruche or boa or in the introduc- tion of color in the waist rather than by having it glaringly conspicuous as the trimmings. For womef who make a style of their own and wear always white and black, or white, black and some other color, the question of these ruches and boas is a most interesting one. The hand-made frock of sheer line gerie materials—of which handker- chief linen, linen batiste and the ex- tremely, sheer cotton goods that rule this season are chief—is suitable for well-nigh any occasion. For general morning wear, for lun- cheons, for afternoon calls and garden parties, there is hardly a daylght function to which it does not wend its charming way. The Pa model affords many sufgestions to the clever needlewoman, and, in spite of elaborats appearance, calls for patience rather than skill for its reproduction. Blouses and skirts are fashioned sepa- considered signed expressly for it, and yet without | which the gown is complete.: It is sim-, | ply a garment de luxe, to quote one of |the leading dressmakers’ who thor- | | oughly understands the subjeét of dress rately and joined into the belt that en- circles the waist. Most effective use !is made of strips of shirred linen. |alternating with lace entre-deux, those {being arranged in pointed festoons and at the same time understands her that intersect upon both waist and | customers and realizes that the posses- ’sklr(. the triangular spaces being | sion of these articles de luxe is ver: |filled in with lengthwise tuckings. soothing to the possessor.. The jacket: | The requisite fullness below the knee | |is achieved by means of a sectional |flounce in which narrow strips of the collars, capes, fichus of lace or ‘em- | broldery are so dainty and attractive RARIS, May 21, and imtricate are .. 1906.—So complex fashions for this season that many a woman is tempted 1o give mp+in -despair over her summer warbrobe when she realizes the hun- dred and one details that are considered requisite ;to what is called the smart appearance of the costume. The colors must all blend, or, if there be a con- trast, it must e carefully chosen, the terials must be in keeping, and then, es ajl this, there’are o many ex- traneous things, as it were, that go to| make up‘the whole that it is really a most serious undertaking to try and have everything just as:/it should ke, The man or woman who thinks that clothes gre unimportant and that all this excitement and expense concerning them ‘#te most -foolish has ‘never at-| tempted to grapple the situation. There are so many different sorts of gowns also that are considered ab- solutely essential for a complete ward- FPobe that paturally the task of select- i | ing them all is’'a byrdensome one, anc |if there ever was an excuse in thi: world for a woman to look conceited it is when she has attained, the accom- plishment of this feat and knows that she has everything in order -for the Spring and summer season and can now begin to enjoyjlife, and;incidentally the charming {gowns thet she has gathered mzethbr"wi&h’fiuc;?l,"][ ind Jabor. And | this, be it understood, applies just as much to the poor rich as to the rich poor, for if an income is unlimited, then, of course, just so many more gowns are required, while, on_the othert hand, if every penny that is spent has to be well thought over the task of clothes getting is proportienately hard- er, and this applies to hats, shoes, gloves and all the various details that now go with every gown. ” Jackets and fancy wraps of every kind and description are ‘considered very smart this year, anq, in fact, there |is hardly a gown that 8oes not have some extra little wrap or jacket de- ,that it is not extraordinary that they | are most popular and that womankind | finds them most alluring. The gown | itself may be pretty and smart, but no- thing else, and not especially notice- able, when by the addition of some one | of these attractive, little articles it is |2t once transformed into a noticeably | smart apd most efféctive costume. A gown of last:year made of tafféta or silk or voile can be made to-look quite like new by the addition of some smart little lace or embroidered coat, wrap or ruff, while the new gowns are not in- jured in the least:by having just such a little outer garment to'slip over them in case the day be cool enough to ex- cuse ft. Frenchwomen are especially fond of attractive neckwear, and, in fact, an excusable expense in their minds is the accumulation of an endless variety of ruffs and boas to be worn with different gowns. All summer long whenever there is a possible excuse for so doing fur is worn made up with lace''or in some novel arrangement in which there is not much fur required and yet suf- ficient to be becoming. Small neck- pieces of sable and ermine are, in fact, not often put away for the summer season, but gre left out where they can be had at a moment’s notice. In Amer- ica the fashion has grown of late'vears, and at any of the summer resorts where the days and evenings.are likely to be cool fur will be séen‘again this year, although it is not safe.to say 'the fashion will become universally popu- lar, as there are so'many chances that there may be continued hot waves, which, while they last,, maae the very thought of fur or anyththg so warm seem quite impossible. * Most attractive and becoming*‘are the fancy boas and Tuffs that are so universally worn this year. Made up in colors that match the gown or in black and white, there is an immense variety to be found, some of which are -ery durable and others equally ex- sensive, if not more so, that are more ’ perishable. The full plaited ruffs made of maline, net at tulle are not very durable, but they are so becoming as to be very fashionable. They are made either on a straight piece of ribbon or pointed at'the back, as is most becoming, and .the quantity of tulle used varies, so that it is possible to buy a very fujl ruche of one of me- dium size. Some of these ruffs are made much thicker at the back— others have the material evenly dis- tributed. One and all are finished with long ends of satin or velvet ribbon the exact shade of the tulle. Some of the new ruches have dots of chenille in varied size at the edges, and these |made up :in black ‘and white, for in- | stance, are smart and effective and very popular, although as a rule the plain colored onés are preferred. These are worn with -gowns of.every kind and description, and, it must be con- fessed, add greatly to the smart effect, and if the color chosen is a becoming one the wearer looks her best with the color up around her face, especial- ly as the materials, that are chosen |are so soft. It would seem as though ostrich feather, coque feather and maribou feather boas and stoles were possessed FAMILY JEWELS OF IMPECUNIOUS RICH “The term family jewels has attained 1 new significance of late,” declares a jeweler. *‘Actording to the modern inter- pretation, a family jewel is one that it is possible for the entire family to wear, mamma,’ papa and’ the children. i “You see, there's a certain cldss in the Eastern citles that may be'characterized as the impecunious rich. While they are undeniably rich, sill they can't afford to spend a small fortune on puqlnrfanclepj in the jewelry“line, and in order to make 18 g0od an appearance ‘as their richer ac- quaintafces without too great expense the family jewel scheme is very popular. “‘Of course, ds are generally con- videred the most desirable purchase from' the standpoint of an investment. Fash- ons come and fashions go, but diamonds are always in style. . { “For this reason they are the chief jewel investment of the impecunious rich. Only the other day I sold & pair of per- {fectly ‘matched dianionds to a weaithy woman—a woman having comparatively few jewels, but what she has are very choice. .. 8 Jo “"These dlamonds were to be mouiited as earrings, each stone and its setting to screw into a'small gold plate arranged to hold it, and so made that the stone could be quickly removed and a filigree gold ball take its place. ' This ball, of course, was-provided with a similar screw. At the same time she ordered a beau- tifully wrought gold-scarfpin and a heayy finger ring, both for her husband. These were with blank settings Into which the diamonds screwed firmly. In this way she not only secured a pair of handsome earrings, but on om-loq! her husband could sport a new and very beautiful dia. mond scarfpin and an extra 'dlamond ring ‘linto the bargain, provided ‘always that his 3 wife didn’t care to wear her earrings at the same time. “Then I have another rich woman in mind who occasionally wears a bar pin set with . five -perfectly ‘matched dfamonds. Few know it, but on oceasions these dia monds may’ be unscrewed from their set- tings in the pin and distributad among! the entire family, { ‘‘Husband ‘may decide to wear one in| the empty setting of his scarfpin. . The! grownup son may speak for one as a ring. | Daughter may screw ‘one into the setting walting for it in the face of her thin gold logket, mother taking the two others for earrings. This is the secret of the modern family jewels. § A handsome turquoise set with dia- | monds is a frequent investment for this | sort of use, though It cannot be used as | much a8 a diamond. Single pearls nmy.be {used in the same wav. or a sitgle hand- some pearl surrounded by diamonds is well adapted to this schieme.” ) | factory on voile gowns than ribbons i|of the traditional nine lives credited to the ordinary cat, for year after year | they make their appearance, always sell for good prices and always ap- | peal irresistibly to womankind. There is considerable warmth in these feather | boas, but the fad‘is to wear them | thrown back on‘the shoulders, and in that way, combined with sufficient vanity, they ‘do ‘not seem to be so| warm or heavy and will be worn all summer whenever there is the slight- est excuse for wearing them. The most expensive are made of the ostrich feathers in flat shape, with long sepa- rate ends. . The maribous are m-dei in the same: fashion or -are lined with | satin instead d then have rounding | ends rather than the long separate ones, while the latest-fad is to have smgll bits of the ostrich feathers scat- tered through the maribou—that is, when the flat stoles are worn, the ones lined ‘with satin. The cock feather boas are the least expehsive of all, and, in fact, are really very reasonable in price and are most attractive -and becoming. They are made to match the color of the gown or the trim- mings, but are rarely, if ever, seen in| black or dark colors, probably because there is always a danger of the dye rubbing off.. The natural green cock feather is the only exception to the rule. Of course. the same objection exists in regard to the maribou and ostrich feathers, but not to anything like the same extent. There are few trimmings more satis- or silk, and these are effective when used in some contrasting color or black, and it'Is unquestionably an ex- | tremely new fad to use black a great deal more than white. The gray and white gowns made of this thin ma- terfal. either in check, stripe or plain, are trimmed with black ribbon, velvet or braid. but it must be said that con- servative people are rather standing out against the contrast and using in- stead trimmings that match the ma| terlal or are one shade darker. After all, to go back to what has already been sald, it is the details that count S0 much in the fashions nowadays, | ing, linen ‘are shirred to the lace entres deux, and the whole finished with @& ruffle of lace at the extreme edge. Little festoon appliques of coarse gui- pure simulate a round yoke effect on the blouse, the collar of Valenciennes supported with the regulation little rods of featherbonme, and the three- quarter sleeve. is elaborated with the ['bouillonne festoon pattern. There is simply no end to the fetehe ing little conceits displayed by ime porters under the guise of separate boleros. They come in all sorts and shapes, in several materials and sizes, | and each one seems even more fascinat- ing than the one before. For early season wear théy are perhaps more often worn with a double chiffon lin- or even with taffetas, the glace silk being veiled with a layer of chiffon or mousseline de soie. Of course, there is no warmth or-protéction from the weather to those smart little affairs: they are worhn merely as a finishing touch to the toilette, and amply do they fill this office. They are readily possible to the woman who can use a crocheét needle, for it is all in the large and rather coarse motifs that are quickly made, and which make ex- cellent pick-up work. Or the same ideas can be carried out in lace braids, and the crochet needle employed to All in the brides or connecting stitches which hold the various pieces of the pattern together. The two examples of hand-em- broidered. and elaborated parasols are in keeping with the march of extrava- gance that is the keynote of current styles. Each well defines the trend of styles, one for- the simple effect and the other boldly declaring an acme of elaboration which is well expressed in both material and design. The simpler one is of a somewhat heavy handker- chief linen—that is, it is a hi Y weave for handkerchiefs. On this a design of three-leaf clover is wrought in heavy satin stitch, somewhat after a conventional motif. The edge is simply a buttonholed scallop. The other makes use of a far sheerer linen, and combines a duchess !ace with hand em- broideries after a most extravagant fashion. In this insiance the whole cover i worked before being mounted, and the design ai to suit the ruffle of Brussels applique which sur- rounds the edge. Under this there is a ruffle of the sheer handkerchief linen, with several rows of tiny pinched tucks above the hemstitched hem, and a whipping of narrow real Valenciennes on the edge. The émbroidered parasel top can ex- press any degree of extravagance that may be desired. For morning use tnere are fine linen ones, wrought with heavy raised blindwork and the edges buttonholed and scalliped. For after- noons and carriage wear the acme of elaboration is observed, and even cholce real laces of the Honiton, duchess and Bruges school are deftly employed to supplement the charm of the embroideries that are In such high vogue. Handles to these are ex- treniely .long and slender, and a big, flufty ro:t!c rather than a bow of ribbon about half way down the shaic is the correct finish.