The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 18, 1906, Page 13

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. A Touch of Black Is Noticed n Newest of Designs From Parisi Modistes. . PRESCOTT. di AUGUSTA went the other six sum- = With ited amount e decided that very wise perso e would select goods g other than a piece of me d working upon s e in getting six er dresses one of which Yet six were as be ey were styl- artistic vlor, right up nd very new with right ideas can pick & derate cost if she a to it. She that some of the cheapest, nicest gowns are e pr st ns are 1 some of se that are made fro the m stuffs costing r below the average. Upon the bargain nter a woman picked up a remnant figured yellow mull for something like ents a yard e made it up with s of the same and with a small around the foot and other whatever. Bhe wears it over a wn slip, and in all her wardrobe prettier dress. ted met goods and the es end silk voiles make up very deed without trimming. Belng s cen be gathered or plaited, and e trimming is needed. A lovel ed crepe de chine was made other trimming than four ruffies Eech r ery narrow band of black velvet, hi en & cording, and this give t black which sets off a costume nce no eoli- . well fig- with on 50 we The Fremch Note of Black. he French have returned to their fa- te mofle of trimming, which is that which requires & touch of black. The note of black is observabie this year e French dressmakers make and n all they They border fles with tiny black velvet edg least touch of black end in their girdles where black is used very well, for the French do There is nothing haphaz- t it. The woman who ack velvet girdle with case gs nicely 4 or slipshod abo vy b s or he voile gown makes a mistake. But she w make her girdle and trim it black velvet tabs, with steel cs on the tabs, she is pretty sure to et something good first dresses of summer show many designs, and most of these are kind to recommend themselves to the does her own dressmaking. to make and very pretty points which are always able in a gown. For one thing most e flounces are weighted at the bot- them from fiying out alry-fairy effect is less ad- . is season than the clinging one, e eas) done, tw this open letter to a group of girls vho heve confided in me, I am go- put some bits of practical for all the schoolgirls who ake utiful our streets as they ,n, to be in their places before § the morning are many thousands of girls, who are the pride and joy of homes you come from. I like to e inspiration of your bright to hear your sweet volces and to ,the lightness of your feet as you ong over the country roads or vil- age pavements or the thronged ave- es of our great towns. In some ways giris are very much alike; In some crs you kre different. But there is one of you who can afford to pass by my counsel that you shall become en all-around scholsr. gt you, TIEVT IS d skirts that floated beautifully around e figure In the winter are now weighted with rows of velvet or with narrow bands of fur just heavy enough to make them dreg 2 little and to hug the figure closely In no case dc too heavily, bt artistic effect s the fur weight the goods an only just enough for Skirts are ruffied with bands of narrow ripbon trimming the ruffles; they are plaited around the hips and trimmed w tucks aro; the bottom; they are gath- ered upon the band, and the lower part of the skirt is decorated with draped flounces caught in place here and there with ribbon ‘choux and with handsome lace medsllions. And this is the way the kirts of summer mre to be trimmed Buying Cheap Summer Dresses. n wanting a very son,” said a French a number of lawn My advice to a nice wardrobe this se dressmaker, “'Is to bu we slips. Lawn is really better than silk, for it has more body and it is smarter and,a lttle newer. silk slip is admirable The for evenings, but come lovely lawn bow sleeves and lov tifully full and specia under the summer dress skirt day wear there underwat: with el- lawn skirts beau- y designed to wear for ~My second advice to her is @long the same line, and it relates also to the siips. It is that she procure half & dozen, selecting them in the new col- ors. It is taken for granted that already has underw waistcoats—in white and black she should have 1 plum berry red, cerjse, granite, mahogan Alice blue, delicate pink, granite gray, and all the other colors which are in her wardrobe They cost little and their effect upon a gown is absolutely incalculable. “There sre very few gowns which are mot benefited by underwear of ex- And actly the same color. very few gowns that are not to tain extent transparent You wo surprised to note how transpa of the silks really are ar most they are affected by what is worn un- derneath, and the same is true of the different cloths, cashmeres, merinos and even the serges and the novelty sultings “Not long ago I made up a very handsome chiffon broadcloth in a shade of tan. It was a delicate soft dove- Ilke shade and when completed it was say- Did I hear dark-éyed Doroth Let ing: “I wonder what that mean me explain. 1f I were you I would put the accent, the emphasis, of all my school work on the strong word ENDEAVOR. 1 would endeavor everywhere and at all times to do my best. It might be that my best should be less brilliant than the best of some other girl, but for that I should not care. We are never required to use other people's talents. We are responsible only for the use we make of our own. Faithful, diligent work done over and over every day in the schoolroom amounts to a great deal more at the end of the year than an oc- casional epurt in which we make & great advance and after which we fall back into indolence and do almost nothing. 1 have seen a girl, too, throw her algebra across and a very nice girl, the room in DPL a great success. But, alas, when the customer put it on it had a cheap look, showing up almest dingy in certaln lights “An idea occurred to me and I pro- yided a complete outfit of the colored taffeta to wear underneath, precisely the shade of the gown. The effect was almost magical, for it gave the dress & body which it did not have before. The color became clearer and softer. And this same idea can be applied to other colors besides that of tan. There are few materlals that are not affected by their linings, and that is why we are making a strong move for pretty lawn underwear of pink, violet. plum and blue. It will pay In the end.” A Word About the Blouses. “Tell us about the summer blouses,” chatted a woman to an importer who well posted upon woman's newest and smartest wear. “Shall we button our walsts in the back or in the-front, and how shall our’ sleeves be worn? Tell us also about the new trimmings.” To this there was this reply, which covers a point of deep interest: “Blouses will be worn buttoned down the back. The waist that opens in front is the tajlor-made waist or the business woman's walst ton in the back. “If a waist buttons in the front it is usually a waist that Is made of plaid silk and buttoned with small brass but- tons. Its sleeves are long and it has a pair of deep cuffs tucked almost to the elbow. The waist is laid in side plaits from neck to belt, front and back, and the buttons are fancy, usually little square gold buttons, which form the oniy trimming there fs Other blouses that button down the front are the business woman’s blouses, af heavy white linen, which are button- ed frankly down the front with big white pearl buttons. The linen is as coarse as possible and the design is often similar to that of table- clothing. It looks like the damask one buys for the table. The sleeves are full at the shoulder and fitted with a very deep and very tight cuff, which buttons almost to the elbow. . The buttons are smoked or clear pearl, or they may be the cheap white horn buttons. All plain buttons are fashionable for this pur- pose. “There are walsts fastened invisibly very a fit of despalr, declaring that ghe never could understand it and that she had decided it wasn't worth while any longer to try. I have seen a girl almost in tears over her composition, affirming that she hadn't a tbought in her head and wouldn't know how to express it If she had. I have even known girls whose spelling was atroclous, a perfect disgrace, who calmly stated that correct spelling was beyond them and that their gifts lay in some other direction. = I mention no names, but every teacher has names on her roll over which she frowns and sighs, knowing that they stand for pupils who aré quite contented with second=best or third-best marks, and whose rating is away down at D when it ought to b A. Buch girls simply fall down in & heap before the studies they don't like or don't enjoy; the studies that for them mean earnest work and perhaps a hard battle, and they are not ashamed merely to escape failure and & TIIITIED TLT/Z E Blc CHRIFFON C/70UX All soclety blouses but. in the front for those who will not wear the other kind, but evé#fin this case the opening is concealed under an embroidered panel, and the walst is ap- parently without a button, front or back. But nearly all the wash walsts, the linens, the lawns and the waists of lace and embroidery, are buttoned down the back. This is the rule for the summer walsts.” The New Soclety Blousews. “Tell us _about the society blouses,” was the next request, “the lingerie waists and those that are called the dress waists. How will they be made and what will be their chief character- istics?” 7 And to these questions there was this reply: “The new lingerie waists and the so- clety blouses generally will be decided- ly extravagant in material. The pre- vailing tone will be white. In fact, one fmight call it the universal tone, for there will be very few colored waists. But the white will be mightily trim- med. “For the first time in the history of the shirt walst there will be found a great many white waists trimmed with a color, and in most cases the trim- mings will be palé yellow and buff, ecru, lemon and cream. ‘“The lingerie blouses will be along the same design as last vear, not too tight fitting, yet not too blouse. One does not see the baggy blouse any more. Buf, on the other hand, one does not see the very tight fitting lingerie blouse. The new waist Is a medium in shape. “A great many women are making the mistake of pulling down the blouse until it is snug all along the waist line. Noth- ing could be worse than thi The walst should be glightly full, not baggy, but in- clined to set out a little over the belt. The back can be snug, and also the sides. But the. front should show a becoming full- ness. This is necessary to the shape of the figure. “The second and main point about the lingerie waist is its extravagance. There is no use in mincing matters. Woman has gone clean, plumb crazy over the lingerie waist. A rich woman of the 100 ordered such a walst the other day to wear with a butter-colored broadcloth skirt. It is a luncheon waist for a fash- ionable noonday affair. “The lingerie waist In this case is made be pulled through a rather lenient exam- ination at the close of the term. Eliza- beth would not do this as a matter of course, nor would Evelyn or Kathleen or * Dorothy. 1 hope, and indeed I know, that you are far above such slip-shod methods of study, but girls with pames just as lovely are often enough deficient along these lines. ) e P R It bappens in this way. We do not know the real value of golden talents. Suppose we divide our talents under three heads. We may have golden tal- eonts, sllver talents .and leaden talents. The golden talents are those we most desire, but we do not always get them by nature. A girl with a leaden talent may change it after awhile if she is faith- ful and painstaking and plodding, for a talent of silver, and a girl whose talents originally were silver may in the progress of her school years have them trans- muted to gold. There is a verse in the W% Vi@ . = E3 of white Irish point lace, with medallions of lemon colored lace applied to it. The front is one big medallion, an immense figure of the lace being applied right in the middle of the front, in such a way that it spreads out, making a beautiful all-over design. The lining of this is yel- low chiffon, gnd underneath there is an- other lining of yellow taffeta. It cost somewhere up in the fifties.” That Do Not Cost Mueh. persisted the questioner. “something about the walists that do not cost so much, the tub walsts, the walsts that can be worn every afternoon without fear of wrecking the happy home and of demolishing the famlly exchequer.” “There are such walsts,” was the reply, “but they are worn only By women clever enough to get them up for themselves. A dainty little walst &t pear! colorea net, a spotless little affalr which caught the eye immediately, was trimmed as to the yoke with many shirrings of net. There were some appliques of Valenclennes lace lald upon diamonds of torchon lace, and the whole was applied down the front of the waist and upon the sleeves. “The sleeves, by the way, were cut off just below the elbow, and finished with many shirrings, while below the shirrings there were short ruffles, each ruffie with a crisp little lace frill. Such sleeves will be immensely popular this year. “What s the best style of elbow sleeve? Well, here there is some chance for a dif- ference of opinfon. My own taste is for the little sleeves found upon most of the new white taffeta walsts. These are short, puffed at the shoulders, full all the way down, and cut off just below the bend of the elbow, where there is a little frill of lace. “There {s another very nice sleeve and this s one that prevails where one fs THE CHILD OF FOUR WIILL WEAE A FOUNIED NE AND LLBOW SLEZVES WITH KIEEON SASH Z/D DIE BUCHZE “ADVICE TO THE ALL-AROUND SCHOOLGIRL Bible which applies just here, It fs: “Take away the dross and leave a cup for the refiner.” Rough ore must go through & good many severe progesses before it can be changed into articles for beautiful daily use, The girl in your class has a talent which almost amounts to genius for English literature. She pursues that with ardor and is at the top of the class, but she has no special turn for mathematical study and has to be ‘dragged through it by main force. An- other girl has a passion for figures, finds them absorbing and easy, and with- ‘out much effort carries off all the hon- ors. - As for geography, botany, rhetoric and physics, she is quite resigned to a mediocre standard in them, and, though successtul in spots, she, like her friend, is anything but an all-round scholar. e ¢ s o % s e e @ The fact is, Dorothy—and I want every one of my girls to listen—the ob- lect of your school life is preparation or to-morrow. The knowledge you gain to-day is by way of a foundation for to-morrow’'s building. Only a little ‘while from now you girls will be in the doorway of a bright and charming fu- ture, with all sorts of opportunities pressing upon you. Your to-morrow will be bright and glad, full of duties, full of pleasures and full of responsi- bility. School life 1s your time for getting Teady so that when you enter on a more independent season of life you may rise to its 'importance. The all-around scholar of the present will one day be the all-around woman in business, in a profession, in soeciety, or, best of all, in the household. Newhere else can an all-around girl be so useful and so lov- able as in her home. I wish that the girls I write for and to whom I am talking might every one be tho sweet- est home daughters in the wide world. e — --By Margaret E. Sangster working ' upon velvet. This sleeve is chopped off below the elbow and is fin- ished with a little stiff n back cuff. “Velvet is so soft and thin this year that it can be handled almost like silk, which makes it much superior from the dressmaking and waistmaking point of view to the old silk velvet. And the soft velvet waist will be worn all summer long for pretty evening occasions. Such a waist is dressy and becoming. Velvet Walsts for Evening. “I have In mind a pretty velvet blouse, which was among the recent importations. It is made of a very soft, pretty shade of pink, which in certain lights looks like silver, it has such a delicate sheen. “The waist which does not lend itself well to shirring Is made up In perfect plainnes: It is absolutely plain, fromt, back and sleeves—as far as the design Is concerned. Then comes the trimming, which is charming and which consists of a little silver bralding, put on around some lovely Valenciennes lace figures. A* silver girdle, embroidered with pink flow- ers and a silvéer stock, finished In the same way, complete this lovely walst. “Perhaps the sleeves ought to be men- tioned, for they were elbow sleeves, fin- ished with a silver turn-back cuff, uponm which there were embroidered some love- ly pink silk flowers. This walst was as neat and as dainty as one could wish to find. It could be duplicated for very little anywhere, for neither the velvet nor the lace was expensive, while the sil- ver braid cost only a trifie. “Speaking of silver brald reminds one that this is to be a season of gold and of silver, plenty of both. Some of the love- liest dresses are trimmed with these little braidings, which should, however, be used very sparingly, or they will spoil the ef- fect of the gown. “If you are bullding a waist, you may use a tiny edge of gold brald upenm it, but do not make it too wide and do not use too much of it. Let it be not over a quarter of an inch in width and use it more as a suggestion than as & trimming. It is so very easy to use too much gold braid, and then the effect is barbaric. Stiver can be used much more plentifully and the effect Is richer and cooler. “We imported three evening waists for very nice wear this season, and all three had their own original points. One waist was made of silver, actual cloth of silver, with the thinnest and most expensive of silver chiffon over it. Then came an ap- plique of the finest of Itallan point and, outlining the lace figures, were tiny threads of silver, not heavy enough to weight the chiffon.” Waists That Any Woman Can Mal “How about the walsts that any woman can make at home?” was tha next ques- tion. “There are surely waists for homs occasions, simple but pretty lingerie walsts that cost little and can be worn every day. To this the importer replied: “There are such waists, but they are few. The vast majority of the lingerie waists are too fancy for every-day wear by the aver- age woman. If a woman Is clever she wiil learn how to clean these waists, and then she can wear them. But the major- ity of women never acquire this art. “Our main thought now is for the lin- gerie shirtwaist sult. This is something new -this season, and it is the legitimate successor of the old shirtwalst suit. Itis light and fluffy as to the waist and light and alry as to the skirt. It is the lin- gerfe shirtwalst suit, and it is meant to be a tub suit. ““There come pretty dotted wash goods that make up well in this way. They can be trimmed with shirrings and with tucks, and with cordings and frills, but they must be quite soft and pretty in their general effect. They are not the taflored wash dresses by any means. “The tallored wash dresses are worth a whole library of explanation. They are admirable in every way and they will be worn in a manner which will show that they are appreciated. They come In white linen, in blue linen, in tan and in the natural shades, as well as in pink and other colors. “The tallor-made linen suit should be made up very plain, with a skirt that is not too tight on the hips. It should be walking length, if intended for the street, and the ‘skirt should flare. It can be trimmed with stitched bands of the same goods. The coat can be a three-quarter or an Eton. Or it can be one of those Russian blouse effects with a belt. The smartest is the little Eton suit of any pretty colored ltnen, and in lilac and pink and pale green the effect is good. “The matter of tubbing these suits is one for each individual woman to tackle. The sults must be spotless, and this means that they canmot be worn more than half a dozen times by even the most careful of persons. The majority cannot wear them more than twice. “And this leads one by easy stages to the question of laundry work, of washing and of fading, of shrinkage and of cor- rect ironing. But it ls, fortunately, & Mt~ tle too early in the season to begin to do one's real worrying." One of the essentials of happy and successful “womanhood is that women should be interesting. A dull, commo place, unresponsive woman may have a pretty face and & good figure, but notwithstanding her beauty people will soon grow tired of her and seek other company. One cannot be Interesting unless she has both sympathy and In- formation. 0ld people will find this girl charm- ing and considerate. Busy men will féel rested in her presence, and as for her father and mother, they will be re- paid in her sweet, bright and useful girlhood for the sacrifices they made when she was in the schoolvéom. Many parents have to deny themselves far more than their children dream that the children may be educated. Thew are always repald in full by the chil- dren who are developed in an all- around fashion. (Copyright, 1906, by Joseph B. Bowles.)