The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 18, 1906, Page 12

nary, isa r furrow gn must come s a mis- that » ate ind sug- ai- rt e skin has & ¥ k B f r w shows the ravages of barse ined a good quality ws the wrinkles ss sut without ever case the firs er eradicati e skin soft essing for e day t you = cleansed Tub over it a e of c cream; don't . s 1d rub the c gain with a soft cloth. Most ° old cream . . ma €specia made ! se; about a foot square f ¢ s eir cold cream the aro they can me by means dages which are worn at might ese bandages are m. of firm, w nen folded in several layers, unt! nd . 2 balf fnck v uld be long . he chin, over the ¢ by me; of tapes brow plece runs eroun the head crossing the forehead wnd in the back. Before adjusting the deges the face is anolnted with tils pomade; take of lanolin one ounce, white vaselne one ounce, cold one-half ounce, and mix thor- he skin under the e perfectly smooth. If retched over a fold or wrin- kle, it will naturally do great damage, as 3t will cause the unwelcome wrinkle to become more deeply seated. Instead of deges, medicated court plaster n be used to erase the nkies. Cut the plaster the gth of the wrinkle, smooth with the fingers, smoothing < wrinkle to the fullest extent un- derneath and put the plaster on firmly. In the morning, after bathing with warm water and a bland soap, use this lotion, g, of course, removed the plaster: Aurora Lotion. Rose water, 125 grams; glycerin, 50 grams; alcohol, B0 grams; tincture of ben- zoln, b grams; boric acid, 25 grams. Dis- solve the boric scid first in the alcohol, add the glycerin, then the rose water, &nd, last of all, the tipcture of bengoln. dial gent s lines t br fec bu ere is no reme bliterating st only rather the science of ma able to tell whe ent or nnot afford if the ficlal. As mo; in an clously best to precede the s of neck exercise rejuven up into face. Bending he ard, slowly making ev muscle ri; hen relaxing absolutely and swing h ) the right, back and is the first exercise holding the head and stiffening eve shoulders and chest breath. Exhale and rel Be sure that your room is well ventil- ated at this time, as it shouw be at all times, if you really are i rch of beauty. Now begin the actual massage Cover the face w 1 food. Puff out the cheeks to their fullest extent, but not 50 as to form 1 nder the eyes. Go ovy with the fore! ger of e ging the bilc the surface. eks still dist tap the cheeks, chin and surface around the € expel es with light tap the air in the Now ning at the corners ¢ out the lines, using thumb of the left hand i skin. Rub this part w e fingers o e right hand until the surface is red same method applies to the wrinkles he cc of the d to the fore- d. Always rub in trary d to the way in which the lin ormed, smoothing them out as you would reases in. a piece of silk Electricity is excellent in stimulating the circulation and aiding massage, and there are ma hanical appliances which simplify matters.and make it e administer massage at home. simplest of these is the suction cup with and the metal water cup, ires no effort whatever. The sbe 18 attached to the faucet pwing water causes the suction h slightly raises the sxin as the bulb rassed over the skin and is kept moving, making massage easy, effortless and pleasant In obliterating wrinklez it must be re- membered that mo method will prove really efficaclous as Jong as one continues to indulge habitually in those tricks of expression, frowning, pursing up the lips, sneering, etc. As I sald at first, eradi- catling wrinkles is more a question of will power than of anything else. The effect of the electrical miassage roller is to quicken the circulation, bright- en the color, and so strengthen the mus- cles that tWey become infused with new life. ¥Flabby muscles of the neck are also made firm by means of the massage roll- er, and the appearance of the hand may be much improved—for lines creep into the hands as well as Into the face. Massage may be self-given with the hands. The stroke should be firm and Jefsurely, just soft enough not to irritate. Keep the skin molst with rosewater dur- ing the operation, or, better still, use a cold cream. The gkin possesses wonderful absorb- ent powers, and the unguent, forced by friction through the pores of the outer cuticle, is then taken up by the under structure. Jt is especially important to use an emollient If the cuticle Is dry and needs nourishment. The woman who desires beauty seats herself before her mirror before treat- ing her face, and takes a critical look in order to see where the deepest lines are situated, and just what forms they take. Then she gently, but firmly, selzes the muscles underneath with the thumb and forefinger of each hand and kneads them or gives them a rolling pinch. The exact gragp will come with practice. Then she guntly, but firmly, beauty coaxing device, the massage roller Of course, it is more luxurious tp put yourself in the hands of another for this toflet rite, but it 1§ also more expensive. For lines about the eyes, rub outward and downward, not upward, with a semi- cireular movement from the outer cor- ners. Thosc lines which come on either side of the nose must be rubbed toward cheek, while those across the fore- ad must be smoothed out from the cen- the forehead outward, not up and .wiclds that little For Jines en the chin. rub the face upward. The neck must be rubbed around; the hands toward the arms. If there are parts of the face which are inclined to be flabby and lifeless, apply the massige sparingly. If wrinkles and flabbiness are czused by a shrinkage of the muscles within, rather than by a sim- vle creasing of the skin without, the use of an emolllent is very necessary, for it will develop the ‘muscle, making it hard and firm azain Massage should be more forcible upon some parts of the face than upon qthers, and the woman who tries to beautify her- self must not make the mistake of knead- ing her entire face as if it were a mass of dough. Don't apply forcible massage to the lesh about the juws and under the chin, or the appearance of age will be hastensd rather than retarded. The cheeks and the forehead may be thoroughly mas ged. but the skin about the eyes must be ru.ved It is should gently and with discretion. ¢ important that the features ned to composure, and all habits vided. Lines are ned by contorting the face into ugiy and ludicrous shapes—when .exposed to a strong light, for cxample, a habit which an be overcome by a little thought and 1v. young people. have a disagreeabla fashion of frowning and scowling, and, as they grow older, the creases thus form2d become fixed. These lines are not imme- diately apparent on a youthful face, for the the skin is elastic. Jn later years elasticlty is lost and expressions oft peated form permanent folds in the skin One way to prevent wrinkles is to sleep as many hours in the afternoon as you expect to be awake at might after the usual bedtime. This is a rule for those in the social world. Late hours make old faces, unless the precaution suggested is taken Much exercise in the open air helps to keep wrinkles in the background. Use oil and cream, devour fruit freely, and eat and driok all kinds of nourishing food. Never go too long without meals. Danger Jurks in smelling salts. One of our most beautiful women on the stage says she noticed how rapidly one of her friends was accumulating wrinkles of un- uvsual depth and size. When spending a day with her she found that she was ad- dicted to the use of strong smelling salts, which caused her to wrinkle up her face in a truly remarkable manner. The mys- tery was explained.. Women will do well to beware of the vipaigrette. The hand mirror is responsible for more wrinkles than woman'’s hereditary enemy, time, E: Do you doubt the truth of this state- ment? Just watch a frilend when she— “‘Questions with her looking-glass, And in that sincere crystal seeks” To get a side light on her back hair, for example, or to view the effect of a rose placed low in her coiffure. You will find her brow distorted by an ugly scowl, or her mouth twisted out of all shape by her grimaces. Narcissus never would have fallen in love with his reflection in the glassy surface of the deep pool if distortions of this kind had been necessary. It never occurs to milady, until per- haps too late, that the Medusa-like faces she thinks it necessary to adopt every time she takes up a handglass are laying the foundation for strong, deep wrinkles and that still greater facial disaster, the double chin. A charming face may soon become prematurely aged in this way, unless a word of caution is given and heeded. “Thy lady love may decelve thee by the brightness of her eyes, her glossy hair, her white teeth or her damask cheek, but look you and count the wrinkles at her temples. Count ten INKIES IIH THE - SEYSS ~ | INEXEENSIVE S .”'{fll\/ P - nd one year for hus TuUnsS a vears for every long every short furro Spanish proverb. The proverb, however, is not always true. A maiden of 21, by unfortunate use of her looking glass. may acquire wrinkles, both long and short, and age have nothing whatever to do with it. The mirror, on the other hand, may be uged to soften, rather than harden the face. It may be better even than balms, unguents and massage roile if used for spiritual or mental gym- nastics. Look at yourself. 1f the corners of your mouth are drawn and you are an unhdppy looking object, clevate your expression. Think of the pleasantest things that ever happened to you; the kindest thing that was ever done for you; the merriest time you ever had in vour life. Send out the most gener- ous, the sweetest, the most helpful thought you ever can think of to your friends, and if your face is not softened more charmingly than ever a wrinkle rubber could make it then you have not thought strongly, buoyantly or gener- ously. After reducing the use of the mirror to an exact sclerice, as regards the complexion, learning how to use but not to abuse it, and how td make it a help toward acquiring a beautiful ex- pression, take up the study of the pil- low. It, too, increases the tendéncy to wrinkle. - Cuddle down to sleep upon a feather pillow, and notice how it in- creases the furrows around the eyes. Qhe, two, three, four—never mind how many—wrinkles appear under and at the.corners of the eyes. It is mar- velous to notice how the pillow pressed and deepened the furrows about the temple that were not noticeable before. This experiment may be easily tried and noted by means.of a hand glass. What Is the remedy suggested? Sim- ply to substitute a flat pillow of curled hair, or a little block like that used by a Japanese woman. Her satin-like skin is due to her manner of sleeping with a little wooden block under her head. The block is, partly to protect her elab- orate coiffure, and it may be mentioned that is why she has such luxuriant hair. It Is never heated by a noxious pillow. It may seem herolc treatment., but the block pillow: works beautitully. RANCISCO SUNDAY CALL ATHERINE MORTON BOUT WRINKLES \E T g Place it under the neck, anu you will even enjoy the position. There will be #o little strain on the facial muscles that they will not be distorted, and per- be fect placidity of the features may maintained throughout the night. In reality, the block pillow is a of a few fashionable women, and they have become so epamored of it that they are putting their children to sleep upon the mattress only, without any pillow, preparatory to the block being used later. The use of mirrors and pillows having been regulated with due regard to wrin- kles and facial muscles, there is still an- other matter for the beauty seeker's con- sideration. Ta phevent wrinkles about the eves and to keep the skin fresh and smooth, affect the innocent, round-ecyed wonderment style of faclal expression. The very act of thus opening widely the upper lid draws the skin about the lower part of the eye taut and smooth. It is to ‘this cnd that Turkish mothers have the muscle at the corner of their girl bables’ eyes cut, at once securing the wide eyes and future freedom from erows- feet. The wide-eyed appearance goés well with the present style of old-fashioned draperies. Bending the head slightly ob- via the staring appearance which might otherwise be given the eyes, and opening them shyly gives the fawnllke look which is not unbecoming to young girls. If heed were only paid to some of these simple matters we should not have the question asked, “Why do women look aged prematurely?” nor have pocts write in pessimistic vein: “Ah! then too late close in your chamber keeping, . It will be told That you are old By those true tears you're weepin Nature may not have made each one of us perfect, but she has given to us pos- sibilities which can be developed. No matter how old you are, you can improve yourself outwardly by training your mind to do your bidding. If your face is seamed with lines made by a habitual contraction of some muscle, learn to relax that muscle and gain control of your face and your body. If the lines in your face speak of fretfulne: and irritability, sponge them out by a deaper method than mere manual massage; cuitivaty a peace- ful and amiable quality of mind In place of the others. Women take dancing les- sons to learn to be graceful. It is an ex- cellent thing for many reasons, but chiefly bccause a knowledge of dancing gives to a woman the assurance that she is graceful. Many women gre awkward from sheer consclousness. Girls are often “gawky’ because they are timid. Perfect self-possession expresses itself in grace- ful attitudes, whether the person happens to know about Delsarte or not. Physical grace is an expression of mental poise. Nervous, fussy, anxious people are sel- dom graceful: they consume their energy in fretful, fitful movemnts. Anxiéty or sorrow weakens the entire system. They wither the skin and deaden the light of the eye. The body droops when the spir- its droop.. 'We, none of us, can escape Bsome sorrow or anxiety, yet even Im bearing griefs one woman's thoughts will turn toward helping others equally stricken with herself, whila the other will let hér sorrow engross her to the exclu- sion of all else. The first woman's grief will lcave her more refined and more beautiful; the second's face will bear the stamp of selfishness. As long as there is life there is hope for the beauty seeker. No circumstances can daunt her, since women have become famous for the mag- nificent. way in which they have battled for beauty against the heavy odds of dis- ease, old age, adverse circumstances, worrles and troubles of every and all kinds. And what others have done you can do. too, for the secret of beauty lies in each soul to Be brought forth and made to shine out for all the world to sce —the spirit of a noble and loving woman. And now . regarding vour sleep. No woman can be beautiful. or as beautiful as she should be, who does not get her full allowance of sleep—at least eight hours out of the twenty-four. Neither a face tint nor a skin whitener, a complex- ion brush nor a tonic is needed by the woman who can. sleep. All the massage and beauty baths and physical culture in the world cannet keep fagged cheeks. hollow eyes and blanched faces at a distance if sleep is neglected. Therefore if woman would be radiant and lovely, woman must know how to sleep or learn how to do so. Do vou suffer from insomnmia? You must set about a cure at once. Many are the devices for conquering this trouble. One is to concentrate the thoughts on some unreal, infangible sub- jeet, such as a dream or a fancy. and to carefully avoid thinking of anything to do with actual or concrete life. Another device is to count imaginary sheep as they jump over a hypothetical wall, or pigs as they push under a gate. To count backward by threes. sixes or nines is still another way of getting sleep; or open your cyes as wide as pos- sible and stare straight up at the ceiling. The weariness of doing this will put you to sleep. Listening to imaginary music or the ripple of a distant river current has a. wonderful hypnotie effect. Another way is to tire out the mus- cular system by a series of exercises car- ried on in bed. With face down raise up the head and feet as far as possible. Do not pena the knees, but rest the welght on the ab- dominal muscles and. curve the spine in- ward. Rest a few moments, then repeat the movement and continue until you feel weary. Another exercise is to Me face up, rest- ing on the head and heels only, without touching the back. This is called the ‘“‘wrestler's back,” for until both shoul- ders of a wrestler are made to touch the ground at once he has not been thrown The effort to maintain ‘this position even for the briefest time helps to woo the goddess of slumber. Getting up and taking a walk around the room may put one to sleep. Another exercise is to kneel upon the floor, and, holding the hands above the head, slowly rock backward and forward, far as pos Again, pace back and forth, with the hands clasped above ,the head. and think of flowers and murmuring fo! d brooks. Oor go s f rhythmic ges- tures. To put the feet in wat as hot as can be horne is often effec e, or a hot sita bath may be a sle inducer. Five or ten minutes in the tub 15 enough. In any cases a reclining bath in water sedative. If it too much trou- le to get things together for a bath, ten minutes’ rub down with a Turk: tawel “will induce sleep in soms cascs. Sleeplessness is almost unknown to any one who is devoted to outdoor golf, tennis, riding, rowins. ning. Sleeplessness is almost im- sle under such conditions. Living in the open air and taking several hours of daily exercise without unpleasant fatigue, with a mind con- stantly but not laboriously interested, causes a good appetite and the brain to tely nourished. The blood i ¥ oxidized, and, by the due ex- all the muscles, Is made to throughout the body, with cut abnormal concentration upon the brain. These are the indispensable con- ditions of sound and certain sleep. In- somnia quickly flees from the woman who takes daily exercise. For she whe has no time during the day for outdoor sports, a walk of half 2 mile, about an hour after supper, is hypnotic in its effect. Add half a mile ach night. until the walk Is equal doing three miles in an hour. The heart beats, and so lifts its load, of ercise flow evenl THE 778747 ARTERCUR = » about ten times less a minute while & woman siceps than wher she is awak or six hundred times in an hour; er about five thousand :imes in the night. Any inroad, therefore, into sleep, es- pecially for many nights in a year, cuts down the rest the heart should have, and so overworks it and makes it wear out early. The sufferer from insomnia must know that pesition in bed is all imper- ant, Lle on the right side, with the right arm by the side of the body. The left arm may rest on the thigh. Flex the limbs slightly and let no joint rest heavily upon another. This is the posi~ tion that insures the best breathing ca- pacity, rivculates.the blood to the best udvantage and more fully aids diges- tion. Lying on the back, with the arms thrown ovcr the head, is the worst pos- sible position. Weakness or disease of the throat, ears and nose are often brought on by this pesition. The pres- sure of the palate against the back of the throat hinders breathing. Mueus collects in the throat, and from these twe injurious conditions there result many diseases of the throat and respi- atory organs, as well as a general weakening of the organs. Nor should the arms be foided on the chest, as it needs freedom from weight. It is also well to remember that to lie with one hand under the cheek is as bad a habit as it is a common one, be- cause it wrinkles and slightly numbs the skin. Don't use a thick pillow. It bends the head upon the breast and keeps the neck in a positien that interferes with breathing. In summer a hard, smooth matiress, linen bed sheets and a light supper are condue! to sleep. Another way, and & very luxurious one, to insure sleep on a hot night. is to have two beds. It is certainly a bless- ing to be able to leave a warm bed for a cool one. It obliged to go without the usual amount of sleep for soveral days to- gethor, o woman will he none the worse for it provided extra sleep can be taken the following week. Late hours will soon induce the habit of sleeplessness and. moreover, will bring on eariy old age. A lonx life. other things being cquul, may be pre- dicted for the woman who gets her full amount of sleen. Don't take a narcotie to put you to sleep. You take one: it works like a charm. You can’t sieep without it, and then you can't sleep with it. It has worn Itself out. The use of drugs for the purpesy of inducing sleep is always attended with danger. Sleep produced :leuch artificlal means is Dever rest- ul