The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 4, 1906, Page 12

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. IOLET CXMIFFON_ HAT #~PIRD ¥ PARADISE AIGRETIE GUSTA PRESCOTT. GREEN VELVET TOLIAGE' HAT TRIMMED WITH GREEN &, WHITE QUILLS CRECROM R0 .t VL. CHFION AT & are investing this season and are buying substitute a bunch of inexpensive violsts. In most cases, quite as effective as sold. also the little French velvet or satin In this way we can save more than 50 Plumes will be much worn this toque to match. Bo much for the influ- per cent of the cost.” spring, but they will be thlc:‘ expen- ence of Paris upon the new world in mat- Second in importance, for the woman sive plumes, rather than e thin, ters of millinery. who is looking ahead for the entire sea- draggly ones so often seen during the The flowers which will bloom forth most son’'s wear, is the jet toque, and it can past year, when everything was sacri- conspicyously In the spring millinery are be sald that there were never so many ficed to length. A short, fat plume, violets and roses. The former must be hats of this description. The popular heavy upon the tip, will be more popu- the deep big purple violets of the florist's shape is rather square, all covered with lar than one that is long, with the windows and the roses must be a blood &10ssy jet —never the dull jet —and showing through it. red, the regular American Beauty varie- trimmed with a perfect garden of flowers The saflor hat will make an sarly 1; ty. These will come first, though there &t the side and under the back, the pre- pearance, but, of course, it will net are variations. A violet toque as pale as Vvalling flower in the garden being the the plain, littls summer sallor of Au- it is could be trimmed with roses which rose and the colors all hues, from deep gust days, but a sallor hat which is were almost a saffron-red. This pecullar Ted to pale pink, with just one white rose called such by courtesy only. It will rose shades from red into yellow; it is f0 set off the red. have the square crown and the flat Small and it fs used in great bunches _Artificial curls are a success and the brim, but there the resemblance umn'm, spring toques, under the name best milliners not only advise them but for it departs widely from its ore s : : actually keep them in stock for their cus- esque tendencies. It is trimmed with & SEihe niron Fome tomers. band of velvet, upon which theve are The Square Crowned Hats, ““Will long veils be worn this spring?’ massed thres or four bunches of roses The square crowned hats are to be nk;d a wu;nan of -!:ulgmr. e M or violets, and ‘m“r:r‘:l. m‘“.mmhv.. e is & “Yes, madam,” said the milliner, with a garden of flowers. s X 1 provided w "‘l‘i;" {“"’t'}"‘"""‘: ‘;":w‘:_""::h"l:“::: a shade of anxiety in her volce; its tiny velvet streamers or its wind r T is the most popu BROWA STRAW AT MASSED W, - . 05 b ‘““Afraid to recommend them?" repeated veil. ¥ D WITH and maline and with handsome drapes of tne customer. “And why?" L il N lace. They are the picture hats of the ‘“Because, madam,” said the milliner, Easter hat & little on one side. The season, the big fluffy hats of which & ‘they are so trying. Of all the difficult prim rolls irregularly and the crown is woman would like to have at least one to things In the world to wear by far the by no meaps regular in shape. Placed wear to handsome events. most difficult is the long vell. It is per- ypon one side of the head, whish is Its The most durable hat a woman can buy fectly at home and appropriate upon the jegitimate position, it is apt, unless in the way of a dress hat is & big white tall, slender, graceful woman. But the carefully wornm, to make one look & hat made of some beautiful material with little short, fat woman looks grotesque irife rakish, if no worse, a glossy surface. They cover these big In it. And, unfortunately, it is the little Straw hats will, of dourse, come square crocheted white hats with satin short, fat woman who elects to wear it. jater, but the smart hat ia the and they cover them with soft velvet of ‘The long vell—which is called the wind p.: of almost any material at all and chiffon weight, and one also sees them Vell, by the way, comes from Paris, ip, yltra smart hat is the one made covered with shirred chiffon and with Where the women are all slender. Here ,¢ 5 piece of one’s own gown. The hat rows of gathered lace. But a prettier and It is draped upon the hat and is arranged ;. ¢pis case matches, but here one must more expensive hat is made of white mo- 5 that it has one short end flylng at again be careful. “We use very little hair brald which comes no more than the back. The other end, which is 1on&. ¢ tne materfal” said & milliner, “just half an inch wide and which must be I3 brousht around the left shoulder and ,nough to show well through the floral sewed round and round and wired until 8 °"l“f:‘ °&‘ with & pin, or a rose, (ynming. But the rest we fill up with it forms a hat of the right size and shape. °F any other ornament that ma&y ;i o mateh, or with ribbon, or with > . strike the fancy of the chic French ‘When one has ;bu.lneg 0"::‘ :i:;' uh::::g woman. :l:r:ll:;l. v‘;‘:‘:r :! ’“:h:r e;:x'm:::l :; some white hat the next q “Upon her, with her height and grace, % R of sultable trimming, and, for this pur- 1t 1s bewltching. But I eften wonder how paste this season & ur millinery.” pose, there is nothing quite the ‘equal of 4\ = 0 o BL o wil look in it. 1 The English hats are almoest too plain PINK ROVES These two t favorites. But there k of her best and the hat Is to cost not called in by Easter Sunday, and that from m;“: ":Df‘;’;;“‘:’; less than $100 that day forward into the summer there - Rvestion That Costs $100. will be a preponderance of light millinery, es would do well to experiment this A Hat ThAt G BION the lighter the better, and the more flow- e should try the new shapes Bt p et 7.4 v th 1 buy & hat which she thin material which looks like straw ¥ the more popular. ‘not want just for the 8nd feels like satin. It is beautifully A very high priced miiliner is showing the shape is be- Wired to make’it keep its stiffness al- a hat which she says can be worn Easter R 4 ways; and covering it there is a very and later. It is a hat which might be thin shirred trimming of white chiffon. called an all-the-year-round hat, so very The shape of the hat is square as to adaptable is it to the seasons. Its mate- the crown and rolling as to the brim, rial is a violet velvet, which is shaped while the general appearance suggests into a big handsome toque, draped well at the Fnglish walking hat with Gains- the side into a rather high point, and them. Women borough tendencies, for it is larger than upon this point, so to speak, there is ee-cornered and the conventional walking hat perched & large bunch of deep purple vio- e back to us to The top is trimmed with six hand- Jets, Four deep red roses are placed & they are, and, be- some ostrich feathers put on in a bunch - around the hat, so that their leaves and all our shapes are with the feathers spreading In every stems will fall upon the hair. testify how & st trim more.’ direction. Extending straight upward st popular shapes is thers is & Dandsie slvercd Mintetts; Trafting Fipstows wall Fhuibts the white plume. 50ld one to-day to a Fifth-avenue mat- 12 b:vl:::{r’lm"x:‘g :z‘nr:‘:::'nr.:rn:: red, a8 while at the front there are two hand- It is to be a season of, falling millimery— Ome style of trimming calls for thfes ron who was superd. The vell, by the ZWrew BB Sr CRaC Wolr Trenrs, some deep pink silk roses, each with & as a milliner expressed it. All trimmings plumes, of which one is very long a1l way, was made of oream chiffon. The OF WIS C S S 1 B heavy, and the other two are short and ends were painted with peacock feathers, Wavs adapte N BURGEEE W pearl on the petals. will either lle upon the hair or show & The drapery of the hat is Interesting, % on and a bunch of for it introduces the popular wind veil. :;“g;‘;?"”::fl‘;:";';""t;;:":‘m o which may seem This veil is o long plece of beautiful v OOWSTR Wil jook B8 FAGHED THa¥ BRC description, is really point lace. It is draped around the thing @ young woman crown of the hat 5o a8 to vell the brim, COUTUTe. This makes w very peetty finieh At the back it is fastened with a pretty 0T the balr, dressing it up and making They are fat, expensive plumes |life size, and t as long as life—great taking them and putting on a few : :‘::_",h,, o at the back undek sacawiing - foaiheve peinted. upont the Fremch touches, ome makes them much the brim so as to fall upon the haif and floating ends of that magnificent veil. Prettier. completely fill up the awkward space at The price was $35 for the vell alone and A certain very skiliful French milli- the back of the hat. In the front there the woman knew well that she had se- ner took In her hands a hat which was may be a big lace chou with & pink rose cured a bargain. The next one will cost handed her by a customer. It was a careful in buyin h floating from the back, the 0 D s Of her to make her face brought forward to be fastened under Season. You can pay ever mo pe wm:“:a ‘:‘n:h one’s costume. make their profits.” a feather. There was a band under- c #0 very simple a mat- the chin. This is the new wind veil just your bat, but it it is not becoming it will “One handsome white hat is sn abso- New Frills for Eastern Hats. neath trimmed with plaited maline. The T rt her features and &8 it will be worn this spring. not be a success from an artistic point of Jute necessity this season” sald & milll- A4iae from the wind vell, which is n- Dat. though new, was ugly and stir, r and even bizarre. The hat as described is to be worn to & view. The fact that it is the very latest not graceful por adapted to the shape ner, “and we insist upon it In all cases . o4,cing o new note in millinery, there little dreams that her Vvery handsome reception during Easter thing out will not count in its favor. This the price. Where the of the head. er face, and so Week, and the gown with which it will bs 18 true of all articles of dress, but par- it 13 Waigas e D e re e whity 87 other things to bo noticed, and here ° Toking this plece of headgear In the ¥ on wearing it while Worn is a strawberry pink to match the ticularly true of the hat. ""' unt the same, but in this case there &re & few of the most conspicuous: hand, the French milliner bent it and neighbors know that Toses in the hat, which are almost & Two colors that will be much worn are be & llttle slolght of band dong. In _ Buttons are to be used upon hats and twisted it pulling it and making the stake. strawberry color. The cost will be con- deep cerise and stras red, These, dsome ‘made’ hat of m particularly upon the mannish hats of band a little softe: Then with one steel magnate has been siderably over §100, for, as the milliner With raspberry and ed rose, will place ot ne e rschair, or of satin, we the fourteenth century, the hats worn hand she gatherad & great handful of ork suggesting her Baster remarked, “it has cost a great deal of stand very near the top in point of gen- = gy u-'whltl satin straw which {8 al- by the French kings and thelir cour- violets which in under the t i rou my idea,” sald Wworry and planning.” eral favoritism. And a great deal can be most as good. tiers. Women are wearing these hats crown while her eye swept another ‘now I leave it for This does not mean that every woman said in favor of these colors from vario! e upon it, You know must pay $100 for her Baster hat, but it standpoints of dress. They go well wif e of French and @oes mean that there are to be handsome cerise, strawberry red and crushed rose ery, and you know thet I hats worn this year and that the Baster broadcloth, and th well with the now, trimmed either with feathers P—o0 - Cheap But Pretty Hat. with gold brald. o mncbl:mr::e:h;(‘t; Kh.n;l:;e!s!tm;:nm::gt “For the trimmings of a cheap hat we Gold brald will be worn to a con- in the middle. Then she added a few use one long plume, and & plaited chou, siderable extent, but not as extensively choux of coral velvet and a wind vell, bt in eolor and be- hat has by no means gone out of tashion, fowered silks, for broadeloth and according to the customer's wish, or ad- as silver, which is more refined. Gold making the hat into something pretty. though you will hear people say that silk are to be made up in these tones this cording to the feathers which she may is 5“ to be barbaric In Its suggestion The home milliner must study zn; T nodded, and after a there is no such thing as the Easter hat, year more fresly than ever have on hand; and in place of the expen- and one is always In danger of using styles and the shapes this season, great de deliberation she started Owing to the lateness of the season it Women who would never have thought sive pink rose, we use something cheaper too much of it; but silver, on the other for only in this way can she hope to in upon the hiat, for the customer 48 one is safe to predict that all felt hats will bs of buving & desp Sirawberry breadaloth in whits roies gv paje 7ellew, O we 6Yen. Iand, §/ogcl. Tedned and becoming. and, fiaye & hat that is uew