The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, December 31, 1905, Page 13

Oaaaas s e O] Alice Ro Mé‘ \lice Roosevelt Will Set the 3 Style for Young Ladies and zZ Mrs. John Jacob Astor the ;2 Styles for Matroms—What $ the New Sleeves Will Be Like $ wnd How the New Skirts z; Will Be Made. The Princess 3 to Be tihe Boardwalk Dress f: and the Eton the Gown for X the Streei—The New Colors 3 2 tnelude Helio. Smoke Brown, & 3 Plum, ¢ I Pink und a New Blue December 23 tive Vien- tatlors nch dress. s for 1906 startiing 1d to those taken in for f a specialist . ican shirt walst h interest, Russian garment bilist from head w m fashions of ed a wealthy s planned who 1s the , having In- e from the er a million, gagement 1 Krup ader, n London tailor, to have wealthiest girl if he executes her orders will rid flocks after a Krupp in Society. ng sult is a tail ing blac gloss to with the new the old habit trimmed wit the skirt is 2 in great rething y design. ere runs a lit- end ops of helio-colored re bratd. e of walst cov- nd work and down the y purple enamel buttons »n, double-breast- trimmed with red brald and underneath is wide girdle claborately em- This is the suit which Is the great heiress in the & very broidered by wo world One of her smartest will be in pan is es thin as spring dresses colored canvas, which e and looks very much like it t i made over a cam- bric skirt of exactly the same color and under this is a pansy-colored taf- feta petticoat, all frills. It is the very art thing to carry one ocolor oughout the wardrobe, dressing in the crown of the head right e of the foot, literally as well atively. is & fad of Miss Krupp to have thihg to match, and one of her vio- t sets embraces forty articles of wear« g parel, all in vioclet and all worn at Altogether they made & One earticle is a fan and an embroidered fan ribbon. there are shoes and stockings, L ttes, girdle, reticule, stock, em~ i wveil, etc., with all the larges 2t go to make up a fashionable ve from the s same time. costume is Fashionable Women in Society. e the most fashionable women This is a question which is frequently at the beginning for it is now that the styles and it is now that the real eaderg of fashion step forth in some sort of supre: 2 af the moment the most correct ¥e worn by two leaders, one of whom is single and the other among the matrons. These two women, widely aif- ferent yet much alfke in style, are Mra. John Jacob Astor and Miss Alice Roose- veit, The former selects her gowns with ecomomy. She is dressed “closely,” as they say in Paris, but with great ele- gance. She gets good money value for gar J style THE SAN her dollar and knows how to buy so as to bring out the styles well. . Miss Roosevel, on the other hand, dresses most extravagantly. A young woman of large private fortune, and with another fortune coming to her from her Boston relatives, she can dress as she pleases without considering the cost. Her thes are elegant and refined, but a lit- o costly for the average person to follow. Her fondness for Alice blue is very pronounced. “I would advise you to copy the gowns of Miss Roosevelt,” s34 & modiste. “But the trouble is their expense. I do mnot refer to their first cost, but to the cost of keeping them up. “Take her light Alice blus cloth dress, with its bhat, its beautiful gloves, its gaiter tops and all other things to mateh, even to its wrist bag and Its jewelry. What other woman could afford it? ‘And suppose she could afford it? Sup- pose that by dint of much management she contrived to get together the gown, the hat with its long plume, the hand- embroidered vell with its little gauze face veil, the gloves and the girdle, why—what y, the cleaning, of course. one knows that these things readily and that they must be fre- ently cleaned, and it is the cleaning costs good money. To keep such dition provided three times a nt outlay of v Alice blue mpanion, tan color, i It is not so s the replenish- tle A Leader With a Figure. the Philadelphla wom- woman in the world her figure. Taught its in her youth, she to preserve her shape. Her does not spread. She has little of the wide, bel§ed characterfstics of the Gothamite and not even a sea- son of Gotham feasting plumps her out. Her figure remains slim. Mrs. John Jacob Astor, who was once a Phila- delphia girl, looks trim this season. The styles are specially built for her; 2 long, slim, trim and “At.” THE FL@ ; SHOVLIECLET TE 7oK “306 AN THE FULLO W P, Here are some of her gowna: Bhe wears a dress of black and coral pink, combined in the most artful ways. There is very little of the pink, just & touch of it “ere and there. With this she wears coral jewelry and the most beautiful tri-cornered hat, bent up here and there and fastened with coral choux. This is exceedingly becoming and what is more desirable for a atron to consider—it is youthful in its lines. And youthfulness is the thing which one would secure nowa- days and fapten to one’s shield, par- ticularly f ome is no longer a debu- tante. . Anether gown worn by this leader of fashion is & navy blue in the famillar shade made famous the world over by its beauty in the naval service. Like the coats of the officers, it is made with brass buttons and a touch of gold braid, though there is not quite enough upon it to make it conspicuous. The gkirt is plaited all the way down from the belt to the hem, and as she THE COTILLION WHIST W/ITH COTYLLION JLEEVE LORN W/7TH walks the petticoat, a plaid sllk, be- comes vigible. The coat is a blouse, open all the way down the front. And in the front there is set a waistcoat of cream colored flannel beautifully em- broidered in pale blue. There is a little hat of blue to go with this very smart costume. The Colors That Will Be Worn. It s important now to consider the fashions that are coming in and par- ticularly the new colors. There &re tones that are distinctly novel this spring, though for the most part the popular tones will rule, the good old favorites. A good color for spring _is helio, which is a new name for heliotrope. This and lavender, violet, purple, pansy and orchid purple make up the 1ist of distinctly violet hues. They are all in the violet and the pansy ghade, and there is a still fainter color, which is called violene. It is very delicate, very light, very pretty and a color which, somehow, suggests scent and sachet powder. One always fancles it mingled with the odors of hellotrope. “I am advising everybody to get plum color,” said a modiste just back from London, “particularly for the spring tailor-made suit. It is to be the T"f color of spring and it will sur- prise the walting wdrld to see how thoroughly the whole universe will blossom out in plum color' this spring. “Along with plum comes the purple orchid tones and the pink orchids, and one must Include mauve and deep red, which is almost a plum. We are hav- ing a great time this year with our reds, for they verge Into plum, and our . customers who have ordered a garnet or a deep red are surprised when we show them what they con- sider a plum color. Smoke brown is one of our best shades in cloth. ¢ 5 FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. “In reds we are using the old-fash- ioned turkey red not a little for house gowns. Then we use garnet and crim- son, scarlet and magenta. And this leads us up right into the wonderful realm of pink, which, by the way, makes up elegantly with smoke brown. “Pink {s to be one of the street colors this spring. And such pink! There are old rose, coral pink, shell pink, crushed raspberry and all the soft old- fashioned shades of pink which once held fashionable supremacy. “What do I consider the most fash- lonable tones of pink? Why, I should select salmon color and also light color pink. These two tones are very good and particularly do they go well with black. You have no idea how beautifully black and coral pink can be made to mix." The Real Styles of Spring. “What will be the street style for spring?” asked one woman of another. “The styles, say, for the debutantes and the styles for the young matron? I am buying a spring trouseau for myself and my daughter. What shall it be?” In reply the woman led her to a win- dow wherein were displayed some gowns marked “Fashionable Spring Costumes.” And this s what she saw: The first gown was & princess, tight-fitting, setting like a mold to the back, the bust, the waist and the hips. Below it flared wildly and ‘wag finished with a short train, “This,” said the woman, “is to be the boardwalk gown, the fashionable dress of 1906, when the summer styles come in.” Then she led her to another side of the same window, and there was a beautiful taffeta Eton suit, just the smartest thing one could imagine. There was a very wide Dolly Varden skirt, shirred around the hips and made walking length, with two tucks in the skirt. And there was the neatest of Bton coats, trimmed with & ‘handsome touch of braid and embroidery, and there was a wonderful girdle, with a —_— B s S > ZXOUISITE WIITE FYU@e) 565 GOWNeS OF CEEANMN BEOFDCLOTH buckle as wide as the girdle. And reclin- ing against it was a blue silk umbrella ‘with a gold handle, and crowning the ele- gantly dressed figure was a very light felt hat with gold quills and a big chou of velvet. This made a handsome spring gown. \ The spring styles show two extremes, and each is in equally good taste. There is the princess, which is always charm- Ing, and this season is particularly so. And there is the Eton suit, which is as lovely as it can be In its new develop- ment, which is tightly fitted, beautifully trimmed and fully shaped to the shoulder and wrist. The sleeves are full. ‘What Will the Easter Hat Be? *“I know it is coming,” sald a fashion- able woman, “and T know it will be my undoing—the poke hat.’ It is a fact that the hat of Baster threatens to be a poke. Those who recall the styles of last summer's millinery will remember how greatly they differed from those of previous seasons. The hats were positively Gothic, so bent were they, so- twisted, so turned this way and that way. and so oddly trimmed. Women had to get used to them after a period of probation. This spring thers will be another sur- rise in store, for the BEaster Nat will go 2 poke. And what the poke means to the average woman can little be de- scribed. It is hideously unbecoming: to all except a cherished few, and- thess must be great beauties. 3 “gen were few beauties in 180" said 2 woman, “because in those days the big poke hat was the thing, and very fow could wear it. And the same will be trus again, if the poke hat comee in. It Is very trying, and there will be very fow tty women who can stand the test. ?:.'%! makeé nearly all the women look i m‘mT" tatement. The Yet this s an ex o poke hat may hom universally Dbe- coming If treated rightly. Those who cannot wear it way back from the fage can wear it tipped forward and, in this way, it {s becoming to & great many. It can be trimmed on top with flowers and at the side with feathers, so that it is not the hideous thing which fancy paints it In minds of many. Baster gown may be a princess— the boardwalk gown—with this the poke hat is particularly good. It can :fim pink, say, which is very appropria r the poke, and it can be trimmed with plumes. The boardwalk princess can be buflt of the new canvas, which s glossy and fine. In color it may be salmon pink or smoke brown. Both are fashionable. Dressing for the Boardwalk. “Things have come to & great 3 sighed a mother to her daughter, we must have boardwalk gowns. was once a time when we wers gontent with a few light summer dresses, But now we must have costumes for the Bouth, costumes for Palm Beach, sun par- lor dresses, reception gowns, tumes and, last but not least, the bo: walk toflets. What shall we have next? “Roof garden dresses, mamma,” veR- tured the girl. The mother gasped, daughter, I had forgotten. We must have roof garden dressgs. And no wardrobe is complete ‘without something pretty to light up well at night under the Chinese lante: They say that dressing is cheaper than it used to be because siik is lower in price and velvet is within the reach of every ome. But when I come to count up I find that it costs as much as ever becauss of the variety of dresses one needs.” “But the materials are cheap—and mostly hand-embroidered,” ventured the daughter. “True, and this spring there will be more hand embroidery than ever. Pe haps,” sald the mother, “when we reckon upon the ways in which the gowns are made over, the sleeves puffed at the shoulders, cut off at the elbow, trimmed with odds and ends of lace snd with straps of fur, the cost ls not so very great after . The sleeves of the coming winter will be & sort of leg-o’-mutton. This is de- scribed by a Parls paper as melon shaped. They will be shaped fust like a melon at the shoulder, while the cuff will /rIPORTED ZECEPTION DeESS - < taper from the elbow qown. The full shoulder wifl be the rule, and there will be few of the tight-fitting sleeves. This Is good, as it malkes the shoulders look wider. Stocks will be fussier than they wers last year, and the tiny little ruchings wiil be worn a great deal. These are narrow and will be used to complete the’throat. One also sees these tiny ruchings around the wrist, where they give the needed finish to the glove. Shoetops will mateh the gown in every case, and when you have your dress made you must have a scrap reserved for your boots. Gloves are made In the same way, matched from a sample of the gown. And with every waist there are two pairs of gloves, the long or bridge gloves coming up above the elbow, and the wrist gloves, The big chiffon muffs will be carrfed far into the spring, and the woman with short sleeves can bury her hands in her muff to the elbows.