The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 26, 1905, Page 5

They Show 3 tions, but There Is Still a Ten- % Decided Innova- { dency Toward the Skirt and ¥ Jacket Suits—The New Shirt § ¥ Waists and Their Peculiarities, 2; 23 Lace Cufls and Deep Lace Col- R # lars Will Bc Worn and Innova- & ¥ tions Are Noted in Buttons and %‘ #§ Small Trimmings of All Kinds. b # Gowns of Fraulein Bertha g # Krupp and Wilhelmina, § BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. treet gowns were the workrooms They were Miss Maude Ad- ssy as she is pe- the tragedienne; bell and Madame The last,” by th spair of her dressmak s ery difficult to pileas = ays wants something new ti different: “I m be dis- she vhich being Paris workrooms t can truthfull study - of - their are no They are bettér are as ness is a qual- eing acquired here. st of the - spring skirt style. This what is bet- It re so urchase a more thz with a pretty an The Two-Picce Suits, re made va- Znized by the d by the ¢ » front rious .ar-it is fastened at the bust and is 3 with stoles that bang to the ot biazer coats -are hip length h little fril arognd’ - the waist line. The prettiest blazers but- ton with two or three buttons and are as long as a basque waist, suggesting a basque greatly. They are worn with or witheut a belt ned line There are little Eton suits which have a familiar look. These are for the m ¥ made specially to show a pret shirtw t and are cut away in such a manner as to fully display the waist, the vest, the stock and the TRRING SUIT WITH FREZNCH 5 SiEcaH" AND SLEEVE . widely open er the Eton coat the more apt to be, for it must be tly cut and trimmed, and it must hed with handsomse of ha balls it must adorned and little jewcled orname elegant little bolero h remind one of those of last year, for their trimmings, which are much more elegant than those of any previous seasons. One specially no- tices the button scheme whick is sure decorations and are save tc be a hand: ne one carried out to match the trimmings the coat. Tur- quoise ‘trimmings with turquoise buttons and I ar white satin trimmings go with crystal buttons. It is a sort of law that they shall match. It was Fraulein Krupp who on being asked what she specially desired to wear this season in soclety revlied: “An 1830 gown made entirely of lace,” and to this she added, “and a dozen all- lace shirt waists.” Miss Krupp’s Handsome Gowns. The fraulein has a very handsome set of Irish crochet laces made specially for her and fitted to her gown, which is of a pale, lovely silvery color. In. this set there is’'a deep pair of lace cuffs, which are stiffened with whalebone or some other good stiffening material. And-alonz the edge of the cuffs there v e line of silvery satin. The lined with ckiffon, the better the fine lace. t made for this young was from the hand looms of It was very fine, closely rese: woman Italy. bling the filet lace which is familiar here. The darning in this case, or the work in the center of the lace, was done in silver and white raised work. And there were cuffs and collar, yoke and hip voke, and a deep flounce for the foct of the skirt. The skirt flounce could be drared or not, as it was mad= in points and was suitable for draped flounce, or even for a paneling. It was pretty Wilhelmina who re- cuested that her spring gown be made of red current cloth. The cloth is very tine, very light, very soft and elegantly 2dapted to soring use. The suit is to be made with a three-quarter coat, cut away in ‘the front and finished with ers, smart cuffs, high shoulder puffs nd a laydown collar. It is a vory smart coat and looks particularly well over the rather plain skirt which is a part of this suit. There are two skirts, ~ne paneled in the front and made with a semi-train, and the other plain and of walking length. Pansy color will be popular this spri It is a color that is neither a purple nor a lavender, but which sug- gests the full-blown »ansy in its soft- est, richest tones. One can get a great deal of wear out of a pansy cloth gown, as it can be trimmed with one of many colors and frequently changed. Green, white, black, corn color and violet all zo well with pansy color. There is a perfect fad for trimming a gown in such a way that the trimming zan be taken off and other trimmings put on. A pansy colored gown can be trimmed with new green. This makes a very dre: uit with its gorgeous green vest, while the hat has its shaded green plume. Later in the sea- son the green can bs removed and white satin can be applied in its piace. Now there comes the white mull, or the white lawn shirt waist, or the shirt waist of white nainsook, or of any deli- cate washable material. Tailored Gowns Trimmed With Lace. The spring suits will all be conspicu- ous by their uses of lace. Lace will be used to make collor and cuffs, and it will be used in every other way possible to lace. And this is saying a great deal, for the possibilities of lace are wide and varied. Perhaps the prettiest innovations for the tailor-made gowns are fcund in the lace cuffs which are now made rather deep and edged on both edges with frills of chiffon and of organdie. One can take the old pair of lace cuffs, frill them along each edge and have something as ' new as the most ap- proved veice @f fashion could dictate. The turnovers are as popular as ever .and perhaps one may say they are more popular than ever, for they come in greater variety and in every color. Colored laces are impressed ‘into the service, and embrouidered laces, and one can buy turnovers that are marvels in delicate handwork. Skirts are simply glorious this spring, though they are for the most part short. Dressmakers who object to butchering a velvet skirt. or one of handsome eloth, will, sometimes, per- suade a woman to allow her handsome skirt to be long, but as a rule a wom- an insists that her skirt be cut off to walking length, which just swings clear from the sidewalk all the way around. It is youthful, smart and easy 1) manage. There is asnew length which is called carriage length. It is for women who always go in carriages and is little used by those who walk. This skirt is made fully two inches too long in the front and is just the same length all the way around. Itds a sweep length. The effect is elegant and somewhat old- fashioned, too. And to be oid-fash- joned is now very stylish. But it is only for carriage wear, for, if lifted this skirt takes both hands and be- comes decidedly awkward. The box plaited cloth skirts hold their own well and, with very litle change, are the same as last season, save that the boxes are larger and are stitched flatier around the hips. There are the little tucked hip, as of yore, and there are the very full skirts with the shirred hips. The fitted hips one also sees with box plaits around the knees. In every case the skirt flares around the knees and around the foot and in the majority of cases it is trimmed with flounces which are put on rather plain. The flounces are more like flat bands made slightly full. There are two styles of flounces, the full and frilled and the plain. And both are fashion- able. To quote from an authority at the dressmakers’ convention: “Make your skirt of anything, no matter what. Cut it off so that it clears the street, but don't make it too short. Now trim it with rufles to make it look dressy. You will have a handsome skirt, no matter what your material may be, taffeta, feulard, Japanese silk, veile or canvas.” Handsome Tailor-Magle Gowns, One of the spring innovations is the French ncck. This is very much like the Dutch neck, but not quite so low. It is worn with street coats and street suits. To make the French neck take any gown you have and remove the collar. Finish it around the neck with a cording. Then throw a white lace collar around the neck, let it lie flat and you have the approved French neck. If a woman has a pretty throat she can wear the Duich neck with her spring cloth suit. Her spring coat will be made without a collar and will be finished with a flat collar of lace, which will be fastened in front with an old-fashioned brooch. A hand- some miniature can be worn if one happens to have such an article in the family. There is a new use for the buttons of spring and this is in connection with the new skirts. The skirts are trimmed h deep flounces. The flounces lap in the middle of the front and are fin- ished with two big buttons. This may be an awkward explanation. But the flounce comes together or is closed right in the middle of the front and there is a pointed finish. Two big but- tons cgvered with cloth or velvet ac- centuate this big point of cloth. One of the triggest of spring suits was finished around the neck with a wide lace collar, 'which was buttoned right in the middle of the front with a great, big velvet button. Could any- thing have been odder? This great handsome deep lace collar of elegant design fastened under the chin with an immense velvet button. The button- hole, by the way, was worked ruth- y through the lace. ‘What are the new laces?” asked a woman shcpper of the head of the lace department. A polite look of sur- prise greeted her. “Madame,” said the head of the department, “we do not handle new laces here. The novelty laces will be found upon the bargain counters and at the notion department. Here we keep the old laces and the laces of standard makes. This year we have old laces of China and Rus- sia.” But, all the same, there are pretty novelty laces which might worthily find their way into any wardrobe. These: come in the imitations and are in new forms and patterns. You can do an immense deal with the handsome laces, which are made of a combination of two kinds of lace, heavy and fine, and which look really elegant in consequence of their make and pattern. They are novelty imita- tions and come cheap. The standard laces of the year in- clude the Oriental list, which are intri- cate and beautiful. They are nearly all hand-worked, in colors, and they are fascinatingly lovely. Offe can use them to great advantage in the making of the cloth gowns of the season. They form the most beautiful revers, which are turned back from vests of pale silk. Nothing dressier could bé fancied. Vests for Spring Wardrobes. In the spring wardrobe there should be a vest or two of cloth of gold or sil- ver and a vest of white satin brocade. Thesc vests can be sleeveless and but- toned down the front with little gold buttons, cr with big flat velvet buttons. Either way they make a very impor- tant addition to the wardrobe and one which no woman can neglect. A woman who is getting ready for a Newport season has lald away in her trunk a dozen beautiful little silk vests to be worn with the little blazer and Eton coats. They take the place of the shirt waist and are smarter. They need only a stock with them. They are in and whfte, silver, gold biue Drucade. And they are in panne velvet, Oriental stuff and taffeta. They are made piain and they are trimmed. Some are deco- rated with a jabot of lace down the front. Others have buttons and some are closed with passementerie orna- ments. “It takes only a trifle of material says the dressmaker. “And the vest sumes in very smart on cool days, or when one is going for a drive. It is well worth the time and the trouble that is put upon it.” Very elaborate are the pettigoats for spring wear. Indeed, one hesitates to approach the subject, because of its endless difficulties and eccentricities. They make petticoats of Dresden silk, combined with pale si'k, made in a way tc secure a wonderful frou-frou around the foot. so as to fit closely to the figure, W around the foot there is a perfect cas cade of ruffles and flounces. One Very economical dressmaker, who makes her petticoats all to order, is distinguishing herseclf by getting up cheap petticoats in this season of ex- travagance. She makes them of white lawn. And, around the foot, she sets a deep rutle of silk, which is, in turn, all closely and thickly ruffled, making a deep and elegant flounce. “Tt doesn’t cost much to make such a petticoat,” she says, “for the silk flounce is but- toned on. It can be taken off and the skirt laundered. You can get up all kinds of handsome skirts this way. chiffon, lace, silk and mousseline de soie. Make them up as Celicately and daintly as you please. Fasten all to a deep flounce. Button it on the fine lawn petticoat and, when the petti- ccat is worn or soiled, take off the flounce.” The wash silk petticoat, made ex- actly to match the silk skirt, is also worn. And very neat it is. It can be made of white wash silk, which does up like a piece of muslin. Perhaps the showiest petticoat is for swell wear next summer. It'is made of panné velvet and is to be worn under a skirt of chiffon. Four Handsome Spring Gowns. Four gowns were made the other day to be displayed in a handsome shop window. They were all fashioned of taffeta. And their colors were onion skin red, which is that indescribable shade which covers the winter onion; iron gray, which makes up fascinating- ly with blue; apricot, which is rather trying with anything except black or white, and ~terra cotta, which was rever loveller than this season. They were very neat and showed a variety of new trimming. . There is a new fancy for trimming the front of the skirt to look like a petticoat and for trimming the sides of the skirt to simulate a draped over- skirt. This is very smart, but un- fortunately it is difficult of execution and, in the hands of any but a pro- fessional, is a poor fizzle. They make them of brocade;” The same may De sald of the skirt that is ruffled down the back. This idea of ruffling the back flounce of the skirt is a very smart ome and is bor- rowed’ from 'the styles of some years ago. But, unfortunately, it is difficult to execute and the amateur had better let it alone. That is the trouble with so many of the spring styles. They are intricate as to trimming. And this means that the woman who wants to dress smartly must pin her faith to plainer styles and to simpler modes. She can select her little pajama coats and the kimono coats and the Etons. But she would do well to let the very fancy trim- mings rest in the hands of the skilled professional. “T paid 69 cents a yard for my taffeta the other day. to the trimmings, 1 had to pay 31 6 It is true that the trimmings cost more than the gown, and if one counts the buttons as trim- mings, they cost a great deal more. Buttons are fabulously expensive, and the prettiest of braidings and pas- sementeries are used along with lace trimmings and trimmings of silk and other things. There are bands of silk made entirely of ivy leaves, which are worked by hand and applied to the gown, while around the ivy sprays there is a very delicate tracery of braid. Gowns and Their Trimmings. Soutache is employed a great deal upon the spring gowns, and it is seen in many different ways. Whole patterns are made of soutache, and there are suits that are covered with it to the depth of the knees. The Greek key designs are marvel- ously pretty. Great big scrolls are laid out in the key pattern and worked around the foot of the skirt. And there are smaller scrolls interwoven to make a glorious trimming. The amateur can make a study of the new trimmings and select those that within her reach. Jhere are many things she can do; and if she is wise she will pin her faith to those that are within her possibilities, and not strive further. “Do not try to do difficult things™ is good advice to the amateur dressmaker. Realize that you can make a better showing with a nice piece of goods ele- gantly finished than with a fancy piece of goods put together in a bungling manner. There are new kinks for the tailor- made gown. But, alas, none of these are plain kinks. The tallor-made gown has long ago departed from its simpli- city, and is now as complicated as it can be made. It is frilled and ruffled -and trimmed and be-furbelowed until it is a gorgeous creation. Its only claim to being called tailor-made lies in the neatness of its seams, and the very trim way in which it is finished. Linings are worthy of note. Mostly of white silk they are faced to give a very gorgeous finish when the coat is thrown open. As for skirts they are for the most part unlined and one sees few drop skirts. “The drop wears out so soon,” said a ladies’ tailor, “that we prefer to do without the drop skirt and to use a handsome silk petticoat in- stead. There is nothing in the drop skirt to specially commend itseif.” Dresses have become a study with dressmakers. Indeed, they have become an object of research with artists. They, the mqdistes, the designers, and the artists are all working together to make the gowns of spring and Easter as handsome as possible. ar -+ PGP S T T S Tale of a Pack Train (Continued From Preceding Page.) Thus, saying little, almost silent, they wound slowly, sorely up the long trail. They were early enough. The catas- trophe had not delayed them long. ‘When they passed the last turn and cagme below the house Johnny slipped off and ran -up through the live oaks and in the back way as he had always dcne. Beasley was standing on the store pereh when Billy with his six mules swung round below its steep steps. Beasley, stared, then went white to the lips. = ‘“Where’s boarsely. “At the house,” Billy answered. His face was white, too—as white as it @suld be under the tan. Johnny?” he asked Billy expected a storm. He wanted a storm. The brimstone would relieve the tensfon somewhat. But the cloud didn’t break. ‘When Billy went back to the store, after feeding the mules, Beasley sat behind his desk drumming on the lid. “Well?” shortly and sharply was all he asked. “Bear on the trail,” Billy answered with equal terseness. Beasley opened a drawe - and counted out Billy’s wages. Billy silently pushed back the gold and silver and went out. Later when Beasley went home to supper he found Bessie hugging Johnny up in her lap and crying over him. “Did ycu know about it, pa?” she asked tearfully. - Pa didn’t know, and Johnay went over the tale again with many higs and kisses from Bessie strewn along the path of the recital. When it was finished Bessie asked, “Pa, what did you say to Billy?” “Nothing,” answered that parent truthfully, but he neglected to add that only because the curses tumbled up and crowded over each other in such. wild confusion that they stuck fast in his throat like a log-jamb wedged in a cur- rent had he omitted that vent to his overcharged feelings. “Pa, go this minute and bring him here to supper. We must thank him for_saving the child’s life.” Then she mixed her pronouns, “and I hope you'll never let him go on the Trail agaln. I always said it wasn't safe.” Pa went. Bessie met them at the gate laughing and crying all at once as she held out her hand to Billy. ‘Well, she wore the little ring with the clasped hands and the joined hearts to the party that night, and I may tell it, too, that she promiséd to wear a plain gold one at some later date when " Billy should have a train of his own. And Billy was rightly the hero of the party that night.