The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 13, 1904, Page 14

You Can Spend a Fortune on Sables and Fine Squirrel Skins, or on Deerskin, Ben- gal 1 r and Baby Calf, but You v Mak Almost as Good Appearance in the New Oy » r<, Which Come So Low That Every Woman Can Afford to Have a Nice Far Coat—Good Advic to Ihose Aby to Bay Furs. EY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. Ce1E $3000 spare would i s s Iy And even ther 1 to better woman whose d her well in the 3 isyal sum among st wealth ho can afford urs. A sable set at ar forever, and be just = ! ation as this Y nd flat anc uld be very r flattened. It = te satin or T} an also be cz for as aby. It is locked after : : s arded as a fa t ke lace and jew- els nvestment. Rich furs are urrier in summer; they sur gainst e and burglary, ¥ zre taken out once a month 2 searched insects. In are brought out, reno- 0 a season to keep a of furs in repair, to store their dye and their ) this is added the ng them, season by will be $20 more woman with money a good is an excellent investment. of being always elegantly most any gown can be look mice. smes in the thousands for a cklace and a handsome muff; re are certain kinds of ermine annot be bought at any price. ble can be got at prices ranging upward that one would have to escope to study the price mark. of silver fox and the finest of squirrel @re also very costly and there is no gauging the limit of baby land, for the younger and the finer it is the higher it goes in price. Yet the best furs pay in the long run, for they can be worn forever. And, since fufs never go out of style, and never wear out, it pays one to buy the very best one can afford. Still, the woman who is dressing well tle can make a very nice show- the cheaper furs. There are ; at look yery much like Persian .mb and there are other furs that look 0 m like sable that it would take an expert fo tell the difference. In the expensive furs there are the old stand- ards and the very new novelties. Excellent Fur Imitations. mong the cheaper furs—yet so like the costlier 6nes that you tell the difference—baum-mar- And much cannot ter d _ skunk muskr The latte i precisely the same manner lish moleskins and can be ed by the eye of an expert, so cleve the d ion lier furs are sablc ad tail, lynx, silve f »wn marten. And when buying th ay any price you please is"no limit to sum you can In the striped furs, such as Bengal you can spend rour novelty furs are more f >eop a variety to wear rather than coat. a fur coat is a fur coat and out of fashic d one that yOU ean’t put it entire it is a fact and a s in furs have cha cidedly during the 7y standard little fur jacket is good taste, but, when it com solute smartness, there are oth gs to be considered The plain, little fur coat, shaped like a blazer coat, but buttoned down the front tightly, from chin to belt, wili always be in style, but one lool or something more elaborate in furs this season. A very smart New Yor girl ap- peared at'the matinee the other day in a coat made of baby calf ski It was cut blouse d was absolutely untrim- med. ng open at the throat anc was toned up all the way to the belt, where it was fastened tightly under a ¢ Of course the open throat revealed a very smart shirt waist with a handsome lace openwork collar. Baby calf skin is a fur that is worn a great deal. It is very fashionable this year, but how long it will hold its own no on knows. It is, as its hame suggests, made of calf skin with the markings of the calf all showing. They are brown and white and red with the colors occurring abruptly on spots., The spotted red calf is never a thing of artistic beauty.- But, made into a coat, his calfship becomes quite a handsome creature. Agother novelty § This is a rough coat almost shaggy in its texture. It reminds you a little of the buffalo robes. Deerskin is shorter than buffalo and softer. And it can be made up very smartly into the soft loose kimone shaped fur coats that are £0 much worn this season. Many Notable Features. There are several features to be noted in the new fur coats. And the first is their shape. They are kimono shaped, blouse shaped, tight-fitting and three- a deerskin coat. quarters. They are cut loose like a little English jacket and are to the hips; and they are cut long like an automobile coat: In any shape they arc very smart, for they are cut on new fashionable lines, with long shaping shoulders and very full sleeves. Andyspeaking of the sleeves one must note how varied they are and how be- coming. There is really scarcely any limit to their variety and one is de- lighted to note that, in spite of the faet that all are different, all are be- coming to the arm. In noting five pretty fur coats the other day one could not help noticing KIHFBLE cO75 AL THS ZErppes ‘/7?////‘7//'/; S T Z e _—- that all had different sleeves. The sleeves of the first coat were flaring and cut off at the elbow; the second coat had wide sleeves finished with a frill of fur at the elbow; the third coat had leg o' mutton sleeves; the fourth coat had the big puff finished with a decp cuff at the wrist and the fifth pair of sleeves were finished with a row of fur tails around the arm. You can make over your fur coat by providing, it with a new set of sleeves for, li ike your gown, the style of your depends largely upon the style of the sleeves, Take your old fur sleeves, cut them off at the elbow and finish them with a frill of Russian embrold- ery and you will have something thor- oughly up to date. 5 , if so pleases you, take your fur and gather them in at the nd set a deep embroidered Per- sian cuff upon them. You will have scmething that is attractive and pret- ty. Or you can use a fur cuff of a contrasting kind. Two furs are always in good taste. The woman who is the owner of a handsome strip of Persian embroidery can do a great deal this season. In place of the Persian one can use Rus- sian, Armenian, Turkish or Indian work. But the strip should be four inches wide and very long. Take this strip in hand and use a portion of it to border the wide balloon sleeves of your 4 cloth coat. Now lay a band of it flat around the neck, letting it come down each side of the front. Let a similar strip extend all around the bottom of the coat and run a strip of it up each side after you have slit it open at the sides. Trimming the New Coats. All the half and three-quarter kimo- no coats are slit up the sides to allow for the fullness of the dress skirts. And the pajama shaped coats are slit up the sides in the same manner. The trimming, whatever it may be, runs up each side of the slit. And frequently one sees a square of it placed at the back of the neck. One can do a great deal with a strip of embroidery if one understands how to use it, and one can transform an old coat into a new one with a jabot of lace, some metal but- tons and a pair of embroidered cuffs. One of the new pajama coats of cloth is slit up each side and the slit is edged with Russian needlework, which is put on in big swirls with a iittle em- broidery on each side. No matter how handsome the Oriental needlework it seems impossible to use it unless one has a little handwork to use in connec- tion with it. Fancy stitching of all kinds trims the coats which are them- selves trimmed- with elegant needle- work imported from the Orient for the express purpose of making the smart woman still smarter. I\ \ = S /4 [ FUTS AN LOU,JE CF VY U TRIIEYL L 2 CEZEN TAL, ) - ZrBEaD: Whole capes are made of oriental stuff and are thrown around the shoul- ders and fastened in front’with a biz clasp. And little shoulder capes are made of knife-plaited lace of the stiff variety upon which are applied Oriental medallions. So there is little danger of going astray in using oriental work, for Dame Fashion has smiled uvon it in such a variety of ways. Speaking of fur novelties this is what you see: Handsome squirrel coats that roll open, showing a vest of delicate em- broidery. Heavy sable coats and coats of mink with lay-down collars of Armenian needlework and cuffs of the same. Baby lamb coats with vest of Per- sian embroidery and stock to match, and deep cuffs of the Persian work. Exquisite sealskin coats, buttoned with leather-covered buttons and trimmed with leather cuffs and leather collar. When the coat is unbuttoned it shows a vest made of embroidered leather. One sees beautiful fur coats of all kinds with embroidered chamois vests, and one sees handsome squirrel coats with embroidered chamois facing. Strange contrasts rule the day in dress. It is a fad to line your fur coat with satin to match your costume. and one of the prettiest winter suits to be found anywhere is made of Persian lamb trimmed with ermine and lined with gun metal satin to be worn over a gun metal cloth costume. The hat in this case can be a felt hat the color of gun metal trimmed with a band of ermine and a white ostrich feather. which should trail over the back of the hat. Several pretty features stand out prominently in the imported coats. The first is the leather-covered button and the button covered with velvet. Green velvet buttons, as big as a silver quarter, trim a squirrel coat, and a coat of deerskin is adorned with biz button molds covered with gzreen leather. Of course the leather is dved to a certain shade and that shade is usually one that matches the hat. A little embroidered leather vest of the same cqlor is an added touch of smart- ness. . And _one can have leather trimmed cuffs and gloves stitched with green to match the vest, the buttons and the cuff trimmings. How to Trim With Ribbons. Several pretty fads of fashion are very much noted, one being the neat- ness and the multiplicity of the new ribbon trimmings. One of the dainti- est of these shows eight little bows, called Puritan bows, arranged down the front of the waist. They are made of black satin ribbon and are no bigger than butterfly bows. They are set down the front of the waist to conceal the hooks and eyes. ‘A Puritan bow withou dle th i two little fat middle. A of cr blue satir handsor ik should > 1g Ik ruffle, or wi Anoth a ribbon little shou another I ruffies around t mums are produced so nat particularly pret bunches upon t big pink silk ith a chiffon center, is prettiest of bodice and co mings. Fashions From England. It is s at the us point to dr are some s that are E lish and very pretty. The English, for instance, are wearing wide velvet stoles' made out of red velvet and green velvet. They are more Iike boas, for they go around the neck and hang down in front. They are called velvet necklaces. And as a there is a_ border of fur. Tt narrowest d of Persi sable, or of a silver fox is placed around the edge and upon the ends there hang long tails. This “neck- lace” is worn with a smashing big muff to match. Then there are wonderful fichus made of strips of velvet and fur all cun- ningly sewed together. Nothing could be smarter than these and nothing more effective in carrying out a dress scheme. A boa or neck trimming of this kind is easily made by any woman, for it requires nothing more than a knowledge of how to sew fur and this is something that éan be readily ac- quired by any one with a taste for needlework. The fur Ascots are more worn than ever, but this season one can buy them tied. They are long and narrow and shaped like an Ascot ktie. They can be worn with or w pin. The pin must be ve effective and the pret made of ermine, mink, and chinchilla, none of furs. There come many fur trifles which might be called furs and furbelows. “One trunk,” said a New York wom- an, packing for a journey North, “is for my furs and furbelows. It takes a trunk to hold them. In the bottom of the trunk lay a great long auto cloak of cloth lined with cheap fur and bordered with sa- ble. Then there was a little short, smart coat of deerskin, loose and cut like a pajama coat. And still another fur coat lay in the trunk, th coat of Persi lam trimmed as to neck Persian embroidery. ularly part coat with gun metal satin and gay collar and cuffs. But in the top of the trunk lay the fur furbelows. There was a long white stole of cloth edged with marabout there was a perfectly round fur collar precisely like the old-“fashioned fur col lars made of ermine, with a border of ermine tails; there was a long flufty fox, which was silver on the edge but brown underneath, and there was a fur boa made of long black fur, very large around in shape and slightly flattened And there were two or three trifles in little flat fur neck pieces, to be worn with any blouse or coat. Nor was this all, for there were fur strips to be put around the top of a high-crowned hat, and ther re strips of fun for the neck and for the belt. Fur belts are the latest freak of Dar Fashion, and one of her swellest devo- tees went down Fifth avenue the oth day wearing a wide belt of sable most wide emough to be a girdle fastened in the front with a big buckle of gun metal. Stocks clasped with metal buckles, belts buckled low around the waist, strips of fur outlining vest and bolero and bands of fur around the skirt—all these are among the frivolities of the season. Ascots are Persian lamb them cheap its lining of vonderfully its