The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 2, 1904, Page 13

THE SAN FRANCISCO SUNDAY CALL. cH is a marvel comfort, but tried to hold it skirt to have -changed affording others m if " you king you both hands to the front, move balloon r worse e. 'There predi stand precious ting silk to four puc To say 1 are not the acme of ere is something irresist- le about the woman who 1wreelf a veritable Mother and 18, while people undoubt are, it is an open question as to what they are thinking. First, as much of the skirt is gathered into the hand as can be ot hold of. One would uld be sufficient, but y manner of means. Still it for grim life, another & gathered in from some- preferably from the side and front breadths, and away you go, mak- fng an unholy exhibition of yourself. Ir place the steps are all mincing small and every ome is ac- uff of pet- and silk an amazing length And, pray tell, how could herwise? The skirt, 1 maker can make it, i zs snugly across the back and as is possible, and that straight, to the depth of the t is suddenly let loosé to as it pleases. At this gathering in all the front necessarily m the length and only the eager onlooker can fully appreci- ate how extremely abbreviated the otherw pretty skirt is. There is 2 happy medium in all and even if it takes an endless amount of practice and work, it should be gtruck. To be too perfect is almost es bad as to be too carei:ss, for it ex- cites not so much the envy as the deri- sion of our Yriends who live in & most 3 world. They watch every step that is taken on our tiny pedestal that we have reared for ourselves, and all eagern to witness the collapse things perfect which is bound to come sooner or later. time Every we manage to make our- selves ridiculous, and it is such an easy thing to do, we see a smile hover over the faces of every one, even including our best friends, and in the midst of our chagrin we suddenly realize that the path that is broadest and the bast ASHION THAT TETTICOAT NO PARTICULAR| ocob ! P2 worn is. the safest and the least wob- bly And so it is even in such a small matter as holding up a skirt. Extremes and never fail to ex- i easant comment. The gown | so fetching at home is un- ¢ 1d for the street, and there i a woman, if will ac- | knowledge the truth to elf, who has not gone forth prepared to conquet idenly discovered her- And how it doe: t1 } the time when dignity 4 > was coveted the most and when there was a special reason for this unwar- r f extremes. ho suddenly spies a ta y a crowd is more than apt i3 t hat she wishes most to PROTOS BY mptly goes to extrer r her way in a plain every-( sort of manner. She pus her hat a little more to the side the bow out at her throat her skirt a little tighter ar er and then realizes, when it was too late, that she has stumbled, and that the swift, bungling step was any- g but plea nt. 1 so it is, and ever will be, for and every one must learn this les- son by experience. The trifles are things that make life, and more de- pends upon them than .one knows or realizes. A few words, a gesture or a smile will ruin the pleasure of an aft- ernoon, and how can you expect to es- cape them if you will constantly and even eagerly go more than half-way to meet them? Do what you please in your home, but do try to be dignified on the public thoroughfares. And, to return to small things, jot down in your mem- ory's tablet that if you grab your clothes as though you were handling a bale of hay and stride down the street at a two-forty clip you are making a woeful spectacle of yourself. And really there isn't any sense in it. True, the full, short skirts are difficult to manage, and there are times when, short as they are, it is imperative to pick them up, but if you will gather the fullness at the belt line with your hand and elevate and twist your wrist the skirt will cling much closer and will be out of harm’s way, and you can trip own daintily along in an absolutely com- monplace but delightfully dignified manner. —_- Answers to Correspondents — JANET (Cosmetics.)—Using cosmetics of any kind is not a crime and I most certainly think you would be foolish not to make vourself better and more attractive looking if ypu can. Under- stand me. I do not approve of paint- ing the face, bleaching the hair and making one conspicuous, but the woman who is commencing to fade is stupid £ she does not try to regain her vouth. Of course, you hear on all sides that no good woman uses paints and powders and that all things arti- ficial are to be left strictly alone, but if 1 were you I would not sit meekly by and see my husband gradually slipping away to some one who is younger or sweeter looking. Believe me, any woman who really tries can deceive the keenest eyes and it is fool- ish to go about with a pallor that de- stroys an otherwise fine appearance. Begin first by dressing yourself with all possible care, for this in itself goes a long way toward pointing out fading beauty and old age. Here are three receipts that are good for night use, but be careful how you doctor your- in the day time. A liquid powder always good to put on first, but be sure to soften it with a soft powder. Here is the liquid whitener: Water, boiled and strained Alcohol . Oxide of zinc Bichloride of mercury Glycerine .....ccecvveeee 1 quart 30 drops -1 ounce .8 grains .20 drops STANFGOR rake four ounces of water and heat it to a boiling point, dissolve the bichlo- ride of mercury in this hot water, add the alcohol. Mix the zine and glycerine together in a bowl; pour the larger por- 1 of the quart of water In; stir, then luted bichloride of mercury and alcohol. Bottle and shake always before using. Apply the liquid with a small soft velvet sponge. This liquid hould be wiped off with a chamois skin before it has had time to dry, or it will appear streaky. Over this put: Finest cornstarch .1 ounce Pure,oxide zinc (best quality)..3 ounces Mix thoroughly and sift through very ine bolting silk; reject all that re- mains in the bolting; sift the second time through another bit of silk and perfume with three drops of oll of roses So much for whitening. Pure rouge is very difficult to get, but here are two rec that are good: Finely bolted tale Carmine pts ..4 ounces e 2 drachms Make a solution of gum tragacanth and warm water—a very little only is required. Mix the talc and carmine first well together and sift; add enough of the diluted gum tragacanth to form into smooth paste; allow it to dry; apply with a hare's foot to the face The second is the better of the two if evenly put on, but it requires great care and skill. It is made by dis- solving pure rouge (carthanim), which is acidulated with a solution of acetic acid. I wouldn’t try to make anything for the brows or even try to stain them, for evebrow pencils may be had for the sum of ten cents at any chemist’s; but be sure to get them to match your complexion, for they come in three colors—blond, black and dark brown. BLACKHEADS (Mary M.)—The simplest method is the one that em- ploys green soap. Bathe the face in warm water and then gradually make it hot and wring cloths out of it and lay it over the face. Continue this for some fifteen minutes. At the end of this time anoint the face with green soap. Rub it in well for five minutes and then rinse it all out with hot water, using a brush, and not only the soap will be removed, but many of the blackheads as well. After this dry the face and rub in a good skin food or cream. This treatment should be continued wuntil the blackheads have entirely disappeared, and it is not a bad idea to do it every once in a while to prevent their returning. COUNTRY GIRL (Earache).—Ear- ache is frequently caused by a cold and sometimes by the hardening of wax, and in this latter case I should say go to a doctor. However, for a common case of earache nothing is better than an application of this lotion: Tincture of opium, one dram; olive oil, one dram. Tincture of opium is otherwise known as laudanum. The mixture should be thoroughly heated. Insert a small niece of raw cotton well moist- ened with the lotion. M. J. (Working Girl).—It is poor pol- icy to look as though you worked for a living. Of course, it iS not necessary to say that you should dress plainiy and almost severely, but do try to be dressed in stvle and to look as though yon were accustomed to the better things of life. A plain shirt waist, linen collar and pretty. ties, tailor made suits and good hats are always easy to get, and they never fail to look neat and appropriate. Laces and furbelows are the height of folly in an office. In the first place they are entirely out of place, and, again, it costs too much to keep them fresh and sweet looking. While in an office try to realize that men meet women on a business basis, and that they like some one about who looks and acts as though she had good common sense. MRS. M. (Mouth Wash).—There are dozens of washes that are good, and if you haven't time to prepare one that you are afraid of, put a little toilet o BE . water In a glass and dilute it. It is re- freshing and harmless and leaves a pleasing odor. However, here is a good dentifrice: Tincture of orris, one ounce; essence of white rose, one ounce; alco- hol, one ounce; peppermint, twenty drops. Mix. Pour a few drops into a little water and rinse the mouth thor- oughly. TREATMENT FOR SUNBURN (Mina).—If you expect to get any rest or enjoyment from a brief vacation do not start out to do “stunts,” to use the vernacular of the day. Take life comfortably and you will get an im- mense amount of fun and refreshment out of even a brief trip. Returning to town with numerous experiences to relate may seem quite smart to the novice, but the traveler who is wise avoids “thrilling novelties” at resorts. A day on the water in the broiling sun, with an aftermath of blisters, may be a legitimate part of one’s vacation, but the woman who realizes how all sensible péople look upon such unnec- essary exposures will not be foolish enough to turn her cheek a second time for old Sol to smite; not a bit of it. However, in case you fall a victim to sunburn here is a method of sub- duing it, which has been tried and found to be all that is clalmed for it. First, to relieve the painful inflam- mation make a solution of one part of carbolic acid to 400 parts of water, or in other words, five or six drops of the acid to a glassful of water. Wet a piece of old linen and lay over the burned skin, keeping the cloth wet for several hours. If the skin is blistered, CHORUS GIRL vaSHION open the blister near the edge and gently press out the fluid without breaking the skin. If the burning sen- sation has subsided somewhat wet a piece of linen with plain sweet oil and bind over the spot. If this is not fea: ible bathe the skin repeatedly with oi keeping it well moistened. This oil is very soothing and helps wonderfully in taking out the fiery feeling. The second or third day yoy may dry the spot by sprinkling it liberally with talcum powder, which you may alter- nate with light applications of oll to keep the skin .soft, but using only what oil the skin will absorb, LIVER OR MOTH SPOTS (J. B. L.) —In response to numerous inquiries the treatment for moth spots on the face is repeated this week. Begin by putting your system in the best possible condition, for a torpid liver and a defective circulation are usually at the bottom of the trouble. Slug- gish circulation in the capilaries of the skin causes the deposit of coloring matter to settle in spots in the layers of the epidermis, hence external and internal remedies may be used simul- taneously with beneficial results. Drink at least a half pint of hot water every morning before breakfast, get some dandelion pills at the drug store and take one each night before re- tiring and another in the morning to relieve the liver and blood of accumu- lated impurities. Continue the pills for at least six months, taking but one each day after the first three montb Each day, preferably morning and evening, the stomach and abdomen should be massaged to excite more rapid circulation, and incidentally this treatment will assist all the internal organs to perform their several func- tions with greater regularity. Gently knead over these organs and follow with a rotary motion, using the palms of the hands, continuing the exercise for at least twenty minutes. Avoid all foods which are likely to cause biliary disorders, arising from a deranged liver. More activity is needed in the muscles of the face, as well as the skin, and this, too, is readily obtained by massage, doing the work just be- fore going to bed and always preced- ing it by a thorough face bath; the increased circulation will prevent fur- ther deposits and a bleach should be applied to the spots to fade them out. The time required to do this depends largely upon the patient’s health. Have your druggist prepare the follow- ing and apply it daily to the spots with THE. CORRECT STYLE a camel’s hair brush: Take two ounces of witch hazel, two ounces of orange flower water, ten grains of coarse powdered corrosive sublimate and mix all thoroughly. This lotion will not irritate the skin, but as it con- tains a mineral poison it should be plainly labeled and kept under lock. and key to prevent accidents. PIMPLES ON THE FOREHEAD (Jennie).—The large red pimples on the forehead which come and go at inter- vals may be due to indigestion or to an BY M oily skin. As you say your health is perfect the trouble is probably due to an overoily skin, in which case persist- ent cleansing to free the clogged pores will effect a cure. Be careful to avoid any foods which are likely fo incite in- digestion, such as pickles, sweets, greasy pastry, soda water, etc., and do not overheat the blood by too violent and prolonged exercise, although mod- erate exertion will induce a full flow of perspiration, and this should be fol- lowed by a hot tub bath to assist in clearing the complexion. Twice each day, morning and night, the face should be thoroughly washed with very warm water and plenty of sulphur soap, ob- tainable at any drug store, and rinsed in cold water to free it from suds and to tone up the relaxed condition of the pores caused by the hot water. Use a soft washcloth, lather well and rub the soap on thoroughly, reaching up in the edge of the hair, as well as over the en- tire face and neck. Dry the face on a soft towel to avoid irritating the blotches. Prepare the following sul- phur lotion, which is most efficacious in obstinate cases of pimples, and bathe the forehead, and especially the pim- ples, several times each day, applying with the finger tips after pouring the needful quantity in a clean saucer for each application. In two or three weeks you should notice a decided improve- ment. The mixture is as follows: One dram of precipitated sulphur, one-half dram camphor gum and two ounces each of best alcohol and water. Dis- solve the camphor gum in the altohol, then add the water and sulphur. Let it stand twenty-four hours and it Is ready for u 3 WASHING WHITE SILK WAISTS (3. B. L).—I know of no reliable method whereby a waist of white silk may be washed and yet retain a per- fectly pure white color without-injury to the silk. Either a pure white cream white silk can be washed so it will be beautifully clean and have only a slight-tint of ¢ream resulting, which, from ah artistic standpoint, adds rather than detracts. Proceed in the following manrer and I am sure you will be pleased with the result. Shave one-fourth of an ordinary bar of white laundry soap in a ‘quart of hot water, dissolve and strain through a cheese- cloth bag into a tub half filled with lukewarm water. I emphasize st as any particle of undissolved lodged on the silk would cause a shiny yellow spot when the garment ironed. Plunge the waist in the suds and gently squeeze all parts until sat- urated; let soak for ten or fifteen min- utes; repeat the squeezing process, rub- bing only when absolutely necessar: then rinse quickly in two clear luke- warm waters. Put plenty of clear cold water in a-tub, dissolve a little bluing in a.quart of water and strain enough of the fluid through fine muslin to slightly tint the water. Very little must be used or the silk will look blue and grimy. Always test the water by dipping into it a small piece of silk. Hang the garment in a strong wind out of the sun, so it will dry quickly. ‘While still damp, but not wet, iron the garment on the wrong side, using as cool an iron as will suffice to remove wrinkles. Hot or very warm water or irons, coarse soap and much soaking or rubbing will ruin the text and color of white silk waists. or ERADICATING STAID (H. B. 8.).—It is doubtfyl if anything will entirely remove’ the’ stain left by nitrate of silver on clath, for-it is an important ingredient in the making of indelible inks. If the article you speak of is a valuable one why not submit it to a professional cleaner, . who could readily tell if the work could be done to your satisfaction. The means usually employed in bleaching linen will leave even a worse staln if the fabric be colored woolen cloth. The following is a reliable method for removing stain, provided it has not become set from time. Lay a thick pad of old white muslin on a smooth surface and stretch the stained spot over it, the muslin being used to absorb surplus water and to prevent the goods from being stained and S ON CLOTH MADGE OQORE . mussed by the spread of the water. Sponge the stain with enough clear water to moisten thoroughly, then make a strong brine of common table alt, two tablespoonfuls to one teacup- ful of hot water. When cold wet the stain and keep saturated for two or three_ hours, or until the brown color fades out. Then wash the spot with a solution of ammonia, one téaspoon- ful of ammonia to a pint of tepid water, and complete by rinsing in two or three clear waters, for every trace of salt and ammonia must be removed. To clean the white leghern hat, rip off all trimmings, brush free from dust and stuff the crown hard with soft paper to preserve its shape. Then lay the hat on a smooth surface. or a padded cushion which will conform to the shape of the brim. Make a lather of soft water and white soap (never use the ordinary laundry soap) and with a soft brush, such as is used for cleaning ' silverware, scrub the soiled straw quickly. using as little water as possible being careful not tv bulge the frame in any part by unnecessary pressure. Sponge with clear water to free from suds, wipe with a clean soft cloth and dty quickly by fanning or putting in a strong cur- of air, but never in the sun, while wet. IMPROVING TH HAIR AND SCALP (Mrs. V.).—When the scalp itches without eruption more or less affected with dandruff, the halr splits badly at the ends though long and thick and naturally oily and the treatment has been - monthly sham- pooing and the use of glycerin, I am sure the s in is causing the trou- ble. Glycerin is a fluid few can use without havi even then it 1g it ‘greatly diluted and often highly irritating to a very sens You seem to be one who ought not to use it, and its use has probably . irritated your scalp to such an extent that it has in- duced the dandruff and itching. It will also cause the hair to remain moist and oily looking, while its stick- iness will collect quantities of impuri- ties which tend to irritate the sénsi- ti Free the hair and scalp of glycerin by a thorough shampoo, rubbing tI mi. re into the scalp with the finger tips or a small brush, and then proceed in the usual way. To make a good shampoo for the pur- pose take two teaspoonfuls of tincture of green soap; obtainable at any drug store; one teaspoonful of cologne and the white -of one egg, well beaten. Mix all the ingredients with one pint of lukewarm water. — ADVERTISEMENTS. ive s MME. YALE’S Almond Blossom OMPLEXION GREATEST TOILET LUXURY MADE Cleanses, whitens skin. softens, purifies, and beautifies the Soap and water only cleanse superficially. Mme. Yale says: A little Almond Blossom Complexion Cream should bé applicd every time the face and hands are washed. It removes the dust, soot, grime, smut and smudge from the interstices of the skin and makes the surfsce smooth as velvet. A daily necessity at home and abroad; a treasure when traveling by land and water, or when on an outing of any kind, and particu- larly prized at a seaside or moun- tain resort. Protects the. skin from cujting winds, burning rays of the sun and every injurious ef- fect of the eclements. Prevents and cures abnormal redness of the nose or any part of the face, and that purplish hue due to ex- posure to cold, aiso chapping, chafing, cold sores, fever blisters and all irritation of the skin. It is the greatest known specific for burns; takes the fire out more quickly than anything else, soothes, heals and prevents scars and - suppuration. Indispensable for use of infants and every mem- ber of the houschold. An exqui- site natural beautifier. A grateful application after shaving. Excel- lent for massage purposes. Now in two sizes. Mme. Yale's Almond Blossom Complexion Cream-is now sold in two sizes by OWLDRUGCO. (Both Stores) 1128 Market Street 80-82 Geary Street At special price of 40¢ and 80¢